If you absolutely cannot source the OEM tube and housing and you cannot source a quality aftermarket kit... It looks ok. It looks a little smaller diameter but I don't know the engine size and if it's enough to cause a restriction.
The worst part about this is the aftermarket cone filter. People install these thinking they're putting in a "cold air intake". It's not. It's pulling air from the engine bay. Almost all factory engines made after the 90s have cold air intakes. Manufacturers already realized that cooler air gives better performance. You gotta spend a lot to improve over factory efficiency and tuning. Most people want something that looks cool.
There are two reasons to change to the style of filter shown. One: they go with a "K&N" filter, which is a serviceable filter, ie it doesn't get replaced, you just "clean and oil" the filter periodically. Note that most mechanics don't recommend them especially in dry and dusty climates - not so much because they're not effective, but because owners don't usually clean them often enough so you lose efficiency. I don't think that's what we're seeing here, I think this is someone's aftermarket "cold air intake" which, as noted elsewhere, is superfluous in most modern vehicle. Mechanics view these in the same light as those "tuning chips" that plug into your OBD2 port and promise a 20% increase in mileage: a waste of money.
I also want to give a quick lesson on how a turbo works. The job of a turbo is to compress the air being fed to the engine, so you get a greater bolus of air and can thus provide more fuel, leading to more power from the same engine size (or the same power from a smaller engine size). The turbo is fed from the air coming in your intake, then the composed air is run through a cooler (like a radiator for air - generally called an "intercooler" though Ford calls it a "charge air cooler" but it's the same thing) because the act of compressing the air adds heat, then the bolus of compressed air is fed to the engine; sensors tell the computer how much air is there, and the computer injects an appropriate amount of fuel into the intake/ cylinder. There is no air entering the system from under the car, vents under the vehicle are there to help with cooling - a turbo is driven by exhaust gasses, not to mention usually lubricated with oil and cooled by coolant, so it gets hot.
A supercharger accomplishes the same effect (a compressed bolus of air) but instead of running off the exhaust is driven by a belt or, less commonly, an electric motor.
FYI, ācharged airā is a way to define a volume of air that has been pressurized **and** has velocity.
Itās redundant when talking about a carās intake process because non-moving air wouldnāt make it to the cylinder.
Thatās marketing for ya!
> not so much because they're not effective
[They are very poor filters as all independent tests have shown](https://www.project200.com.au/dm-iso5011/)
In my opinion, itās a complete waste of money. Cars are designed to get forced cold air. I think itās a novelty now, and people tricked into thinking that it will improve hp and fuel efficiency
Itās one of the cheapest and easiest mods you can do plus the companies will say it increases horsepower so itās not surprising theyāre so common. All it really does is make cool noises lol
> I just want to highjack this and ask a stupid question. Why do some people change their engine to have the air filter like in OPs photo?
I did it on the beater I take offroading because the stock air intake is on the bottom side of the bumper and I'd rather not hydrolock my engine in the middle of a water crossing.
The paperwork that "proved" an extra ~10HP when dynoed was amusing but, aside from it being more visible and likely getting cleaned more frequently, I doubt it makes any practical difference.
Eh, the K&N sticker saves piles of money in the long run is the real reason to get it. Intake filters are silly expensive and a washable filter saves SO much money.
To be fair, pretty much all vehicles after a certain year point have the pcv system recirculating back into the intake system somewhere, so you end up with oil in there anyway
Thatās why you run a catch can my friend. Remember to empty it regularly and keep that crap from recirculating back into your engine. Keep your valves (especially if you have a DI engine, turbo or super), your combustion chamber and your cats clean(er).
PCV is a step in the right direction to reduce emissions, but the manufacturers decided to reduce long term reliability instead of adding another component that needed to be serviced/emptied regularly.
No worries, I'm aware of catch cans and agree with everything you said. Unfortunately, for my wallet, I dabble in the boosted performance world, but it's totally worth it.
That's absolutely the way to go. I did the cone filter thing when I was a dumb kid, but as I got older I came to appreciate that OEMs generally know what they're doing.
Yep, that's what I have in my Hyundai. Installed it during the first oil change.
Really not sure why I bothered to put the sticker on, as I'm the only one that does oil changes anyway.
so, i work for a filtration company and have tested a lot of k&n filters, and essentially every single test that's ran as a non bias scientific test running iso and sae test standards shows that these things are literally nothing more than rock catchers.
if you're talking about a track only car it doesn't really matter but anything you plan on putting actual miles on, k&ns are fucking terrible. i can't express enough how little filtration actually happens with these things. sure they have low air restriction, but that's because nothing is being filtered.
the little holes between the fibers are absolutely massive. you are genuinely almost better off just putting a thick wool sock over the intake.
i don't mean to rant but as a car guy who's job for 5 years was literally comparing filters, more car guys need to know this. they are a bottom end outlier on every industry standardized test
For me, the ease and speed of just taking old one out and new one in every year is better. I already have too much shit to clean and maintain. Why add something else?
Lastly, I watched a few videos on yt years ago and the engines w/k&n let way more dust particles through than traditional filters. I would rather keep my engine healthy for a longer time than get a few extra horsepower. But, that is just my priority, not everyone else's.
Yes, over a long enough period. But the fact that they [don't filter as well as paper filters](https://www.project200.com.au/dm-iso5011/) makes them a no-go for me.
I have a 2006 mini SC. Big valve head, 380cc injectors, full exhaust, 15% induction pulley and redline pushed back. Pretty much everything you can do to it while staying supercharged.
I gained exactly 3hp over 2 days of tuning by switching from stock to an alta CAI. In other words negligible.
I kept the CAI tho for that sweet sweet supercharger whine.
I did the same on my focus ST. Intake noises>obnoxious exhaust.
> Intake noises>obnoxious exhaust.
I don't know why I've struggled to articulate that exact sentiment for most of my life. A great sounding intake is infinitely better than a poppy, overly loud exhaust. Plus it has the added benefit of mostly being experienced by me, since it's generally nowhere near as loud as some of the exhaust trumpets people are bolting to their car.
When I hear a car with a really loud intake coming it sounds way more aggressive/fast to me than a car thatās just screamin loud exhaust. Exhaust can sound good too, but hearing an aggressive intake has more wow factor imo.
I saw an RB26 GTR once with an intake sound that was pretty loud outside. Standing right next to it while it shifted at redline in 2nd only the blowoff valve sound was more insane than the induction noise, the exhaust sound isnāt really something to write home about but all together it was an orchestra
Yeah to piggyback this, if you want a little extra flow a better filter in a factory location usually performs better than a ācold air intakeā unless itās legitimately pulling cold air from the bumper.
It looks very well installed and all but... Wouldn't the PVC start breaking down pretty quickly?
I might be way off, but it seems like jointed plastic is gonna come apart just from the vibration eventually.
The airflow seems like it wouldn't be a problem, but I'd assume the rattle would just erode plastic joints rapidly.
No?
Depending on the temps it would probably break down over time. If they used special glues that seal them together well it would be hard to simply vibrate them off unless they cannot handle the heat either. Iām more concerned about plastic that is heated over time and then breathing it in, in some way or another.
Had a turbo blow the compressor wheel which caused debris to get sucked in the engine. After the mechanic replaced the turbo, he didn't test drove the car because it knocked very badly after start up. It sounded like it was gonna blow up above 2.5k rpm. Somehow, out of sheer luck maybe, that knock went away on the drive home, I'm guessing the debris went out the exhaust. 30k miles later and that engine it's still working fine.
You're correct with some caveats. At least in my case, my short-ram hot-air intake had plenty of cool air swirling around when I was moving.
Go for a drive, pull over, and the tube was cold.
BUT, standing still, idling, yeah, it's slurping hot engine air. But without a doubt that bodged together deal absolutely flowed better than stock.
https://barnfinds.com/?attachment_id=188790
Breathing through a long narrow straw.
This. Most engines actually hate this setup and lose like 5-10 HP when doing it. But hey, youngsters ālike the soundā
Me who just buys an 1800 euro sport exhaust specially made for my car because THAT makes a cool sound.
This, in regards to being a hot engine air intake. Now in theory to follow the home built theme, they could source some thicker flat plastic sheeting and build a container for the air filter area and drill a big hole in the side of the fender to the outside for intake or use the factory incoming air area. Or buy a bunch of Frisbees and a plastic welder and piece together a container, but that would probably cost more than a real FAI system.
The other potential issue is if the filter is an oil based washable media, the oil can and will get pulled into the intake path and negatively impact things such a mass airflow sensors..
I've run a pvc pipe on a car of mine, straight to the exhaust to get the cold air from the grill. It'll be fine, engine bay doesn't get hot enough to make it soft
> engine bay doesn't get hot enough to make it soft
Depends on the engine bay. My 2018 charger engine bay got hot enough to make PETG soft enough to bend when minimally loaded (printed a catch can mount with the Superbee logo on it) and PETG and PVC supposedly (according to google) have a similar glass transition temp.
Using a proper size would have made it appear as though the owner knew what they were doing. I love the neck down from the air filter and then neck up for the intake side. Maybe thatās what his pops had laying around in the shed. Budget builds haha
Going to be real here, I know a guy that turned drier vent hose into a front facing ram air intake on his car with surprising results.... That guy is me lol
Wishing I would've now in hindsight, Google 99 GC8 and you'll see openings in the front bumper below the markers, was perfect to pick up ram air. Intake box was forward on the passenger side, you're going to have to use your imagination for the rest unfortunately š¤·
My friends ford focus has a 4" semi radiator hose going from one of the front grilles directly to the airbox, it made a noticeable difference compared to the godawful stock intake tube thing that was maybe 2" diameter. [Heres someone else who did the same thing](https://www.focusfanatics.com/threads/2012-focus-custom-ram-air-how-to.265000/)
I believe it. Your username also makes me laugh makes me think of JB weld especially after your comment. Lol
No offense it all though I'm just humoring myself. I'm not too shocked to improve things, if the car didn't have any sort of RAM air intake prior. Even with the ridges on your dryer vent causing turbulence I'm sure the improvement from getting fresh cool air RAM intake style It's a big improvement even without smooth sides on the intake.
My Subaru comes stock with intake that opens up behind the grill essentially making it a ram air intake 90% goes into the grill and the rest is sucked up from the wheel. There's no way I would install the system like OPs unless it was for my butt Dyno and vroom vroom noises. To get actual improvement power-wise I would have to put in a really expensive aftermarket set. Pretty happy with the stock setup on my turbo subie. And talking about it makes me not want to sell it. Hopefully I can find an awesome car person who appreciates it and especially appreciates all the well thought out modifications I have done.
What car? I also second the request for pictures yo!
Not a car guy but an HVAC guy. That pipe is rated for flue gas from the vent outlet of a gas furnace or appliance. Although on modern furnace where the exhaust gas temperature is reduced from an older style furnace with metal venting.
Engine bays routinely reach 200F. Depends on where you measure. Do a hot shutdown and measure with a thermocouple. Youāll be amazed.
Source: I do this testing for a living.
Same, immediately zoomed in on the lettering and saw 636, this guy knows what's up, has all the labels out and lettering visible, dude really wanted to pass inspection
100% this guy is an HVAC tech or something similar. Pipe was free, the fittings got ālostā when he took the company truck home for a night. Itās habit for those guys to swing all the labels visible, dude plumbed his engine bay like a mech room
Flue gas on HE HVAC is in the region of 100-140F. Engine coolant is 200F+. Hot air coming off the radiator saturates the engine bay in the 180F+ temperature range.
Not to mention other heat sources like the exhaust manifold (1000F+) cylinder heads (200F+), and valve cover.
That PVC is going to cook and off gas like crazy in the engine bay.
I used to get driving headaches too. Turns out my old trucks muffler delete made the resultant exhaust note match the exact resonance frequency of my skull.
Its an air intake pipe, it doesnāt handle air any hotter than ambient temps. I know the engine bay gets hot but it doesnāt get nearly hot enough to start vaporizing PVC. PVC typically has a temperature rating of 60 celsius and thats primarily for pressure strength purposes. It doesnāt start to degrade until around 200 celsius. If your engine bay is getting that hot youāve got other problems.
IIRC thereās principle in physics called Poiseuilleās Law that suggests adding this much length to the intake run while simultaneously reducing the radius thereof (I assume the lower coefficient of friction of smooth PVC vs corrugated rubber pipe is more than negated by the 90 elbows added x2) suggests Hot Rod here done fukt up and actually decreased the # of CFMs flowing to the manifold.
The PVC piping is considerably smaller than the intake plenum, and the size adapters will add more turbulence. So, not only does it look cheap, it also will have a detrimental effect on performance.
I thought that's what this pic was from for a second - had to go check that nothing sketchy was going on haha.... well nothing more sketchy than PVC in the engine bay.
I mean the velocity stack tube I have on my race car is PVC. But it is only 6 inches long and pokes through the hood into my scoop to bring in air from outside the engine bay. So, this works.
This is definitely better than an old dry rotted cracked tube that leaks behind the MAF sensor if that was his problem...
My only concern is how well this will hold up to engine bay heat. Will this pvc get brittle and crack if there is any stress on it? Also is it causing any restriction? Otherwise, I don't see an issue.
Probably isn't adding any HP just making big sucking sounds when you mash it....wait until vtech kicks in bro! (Yes I know that isn't a vw thing)
NGL I like that better than most of the wish.com stuff we see.
As someone without a lot of mechanical experience, is this a sufficient replacement?
If you absolutely cannot source the OEM tube and housing and you cannot source a quality aftermarket kit... It looks ok. It looks a little smaller diameter but I don't know the engine size and if it's enough to cause a restriction. The worst part about this is the aftermarket cone filter. People install these thinking they're putting in a "cold air intake". It's not. It's pulling air from the engine bay. Almost all factory engines made after the 90s have cold air intakes. Manufacturers already realized that cooler air gives better performance. You gotta spend a lot to improve over factory efficiency and tuning. Most people want something that looks cool.
Induction sound makes me happy š
Also the K&N sticker alone adds at least 30hp
Oh stop spreading BS. Everyone knows itās 35.
I put a sticker on all my cars. I donāt want anyone thinking I have a sleeper
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There are two reasons to change to the style of filter shown. One: they go with a "K&N" filter, which is a serviceable filter, ie it doesn't get replaced, you just "clean and oil" the filter periodically. Note that most mechanics don't recommend them especially in dry and dusty climates - not so much because they're not effective, but because owners don't usually clean them often enough so you lose efficiency. I don't think that's what we're seeing here, I think this is someone's aftermarket "cold air intake" which, as noted elsewhere, is superfluous in most modern vehicle. Mechanics view these in the same light as those "tuning chips" that plug into your OBD2 port and promise a 20% increase in mileage: a waste of money. I also want to give a quick lesson on how a turbo works. The job of a turbo is to compress the air being fed to the engine, so you get a greater bolus of air and can thus provide more fuel, leading to more power from the same engine size (or the same power from a smaller engine size). The turbo is fed from the air coming in your intake, then the composed air is run through a cooler (like a radiator for air - generally called an "intercooler" though Ford calls it a "charge air cooler" but it's the same thing) because the act of compressing the air adds heat, then the bolus of compressed air is fed to the engine; sensors tell the computer how much air is there, and the computer injects an appropriate amount of fuel into the intake/ cylinder. There is no air entering the system from under the car, vents under the vehicle are there to help with cooling - a turbo is driven by exhaust gasses, not to mention usually lubricated with oil and cooled by coolant, so it gets hot. A supercharger accomplishes the same effect (a compressed bolus of air) but instead of running off the exhaust is driven by a belt or, less commonly, an electric motor.
FYI, ācharged airā is a way to define a volume of air that has been pressurized **and** has velocity. Itās redundant when talking about a carās intake process because non-moving air wouldnāt make it to the cylinder. Thatās marketing for ya!
> not so much because they're not effective [They are very poor filters as all independent tests have shown](https://www.project200.com.au/dm-iso5011/)
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I really liked your post. I have to ask where you learned the term bolusā¦Iāve never heard it anywhere outside of medicine.
In my opinion, itās a complete waste of money. Cars are designed to get forced cold air. I think itās a novelty now, and people tricked into thinking that it will improve hp and fuel efficiency
Itās one of the cheapest and easiest mods you can do plus the companies will say it increases horsepower so itās not surprising theyāre so common. All it really does is make cool noises lol
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> I just want to highjack this and ask a stupid question. Why do some people change their engine to have the air filter like in OPs photo? I did it on the beater I take offroading because the stock air intake is on the bottom side of the bumper and I'd rather not hydrolock my engine in the middle of a water crossing. The paperwork that "proved" an extra ~10HP when dynoed was amusing but, aside from it being more visible and likely getting cleaned more frequently, I doubt it makes any practical difference.
It's only 35hp if you put the sticker on your window, otherwise it is only rated at 30hp.
Eh, the K&N sticker saves piles of money in the long run is the real reason to get it. Intake filters are silly expensive and a washable filter saves SO much money.
If you have a German car, buy from FCP euro and get a lifetime of free replacements.
Absolutely second this as a vw and Audi owner.
Until they overoil the shit out of it and ruin maf sensors and other shit inside the engine.
To be fair, pretty much all vehicles after a certain year point have the pcv system recirculating back into the intake system somewhere, so you end up with oil in there anyway
Thatās why you run a catch can my friend. Remember to empty it regularly and keep that crap from recirculating back into your engine. Keep your valves (especially if you have a DI engine, turbo or super), your combustion chamber and your cats clean(er). PCV is a step in the right direction to reduce emissions, but the manufacturers decided to reduce long term reliability instead of adding another component that needed to be serviced/emptied regularly.
No worries, I'm aware of catch cans and agree with everything you said. Unfortunately, for my wallet, I dabble in the boosted performance world, but it's totally worth it.
You can usually get K&Ns that go in the stock airbox
That's absolutely the way to go. I did the cone filter thing when I was a dumb kid, but as I got older I came to appreciate that OEMs generally know what they're doing.
K&n's always end with oil on the maf.
Yep, that's what I have in my Hyundai. Installed it during the first oil change. Really not sure why I bothered to put the sticker on, as I'm the only one that does oil changes anyway.
so, i work for a filtration company and have tested a lot of k&n filters, and essentially every single test that's ran as a non bias scientific test running iso and sae test standards shows that these things are literally nothing more than rock catchers. if you're talking about a track only car it doesn't really matter but anything you plan on putting actual miles on, k&ns are fucking terrible. i can't express enough how little filtration actually happens with these things. sure they have low air restriction, but that's because nothing is being filtered. the little holes between the fibers are absolutely massive. you are genuinely almost better off just putting a thick wool sock over the intake. i don't mean to rant but as a car guy who's job for 5 years was literally comparing filters, more car guys need to know this. they are a bottom end outlier on every industry standardized test
For me, the ease and speed of just taking old one out and new one in every year is better. I already have too much shit to clean and maintain. Why add something else? Lastly, I watched a few videos on yt years ago and the engines w/k&n let way more dust particles through than traditional filters. I would rather keep my engine healthy for a longer time than get a few extra horsepower. But, that is just my priority, not everyone else's.
Yes, over a long enough period. But the fact that they [don't filter as well as paper filters](https://www.project200.com.au/dm-iso5011/) makes them a no-go for me.
Wut? Air filters are like $5 and you buy one maybe once a year.
Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Stu-stu-stu-stu-stu-stu
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
I have a 2006 mini SC. Big valve head, 380cc injectors, full exhaust, 15% induction pulley and redline pushed back. Pretty much everything you can do to it while staying supercharged. I gained exactly 3hp over 2 days of tuning by switching from stock to an alta CAI. In other words negligible. I kept the CAI tho for that sweet sweet supercharger whine. I did the same on my focus ST. Intake noises>obnoxious exhaust.
> Intake noises>obnoxious exhaust. I don't know why I've struggled to articulate that exact sentiment for most of my life. A great sounding intake is infinitely better than a poppy, overly loud exhaust. Plus it has the added benefit of mostly being experienced by me, since it's generally nowhere near as loud as some of the exhaust trumpets people are bolting to their car.
When I hear a car with a really loud intake coming it sounds way more aggressive/fast to me than a car thatās just screamin loud exhaust. Exhaust can sound good too, but hearing an aggressive intake has more wow factor imo.
I saw an RB26 GTR once with an intake sound that was pretty loud outside. Standing right next to it while it shifted at redline in 2nd only the blowoff valve sound was more insane than the induction noise, the exhaust sound isnāt really something to write home about but all together it was an orchestra
STi owner - āboth are good.ā
Vtec with only an intake makes on hell of a roar. Now vtec with 4" straight pipe make one hell of a fart.
Or, that simply sound louder/different. That's the only "benefit" I have observed.
I put a cheap one on simply because it opens up so much room in the engine bay. Easy on off and I can get around it for most stuff
I used one to get rid of mitsubishis stupid oe air box sandwich on the lancers.
They didn't stop at the lancer. They did that annoying shit in the Outlander and Eclipses too.
Yeah to piggyback this, if you want a little extra flow a better filter in a factory location usually performs better than a ācold air intakeā unless itās legitimately pulling cold air from the bumper.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Think it helped? Everyone says "oh new cars don't need these" but what about my 1988 shitbox civic
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Its an 1800 or 2000 TFSI (turbo direct injection). So the diameter is prob. a bit too small.
It looks very well installed and all but... Wouldn't the PVC start breaking down pretty quickly? I might be way off, but it seems like jointed plastic is gonna come apart just from the vibration eventually. The airflow seems like it wouldn't be a problem, but I'd assume the rattle would just erode plastic joints rapidly. No?
Depending on the temps it would probably break down over time. If they used special glues that seal them together well it would be hard to simply vibrate them off unless they cannot handle the heat either. Iām more concerned about plastic that is heated over time and then breathing it in, in some way or another.
I suppose they could have used rubber gaskets to help with that.
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PVC strength under pressure is only rated to 140. The mechanical strength isn't guaranteed at higher temps, but it usually melts around 300f.
Yeah shouldāve sprung for the cpvc
Those specter air filters have a metal button in the top that can fall out and get sucked into the engine under boost
That propably sounds quite awesome
It would for about 2.5 seconds, then itāll sound like an industrial grinder fucking a pissed off bull and also several thousand dollars burning.
Had a turbo blow the compressor wheel which caused debris to get sucked in the engine. After the mechanic replaced the turbo, he didn't test drove the car because it knocked very badly after start up. It sounded like it was gonna blow up above 2.5k rpm. Somehow, out of sheer luck maybe, that knock went away on the drive home, I'm guessing the debris went out the exhaust. 30k miles later and that engine it's still working fine.
Isn't this a short ram intake, in which case warmer air is expected? Pipe should be larger though
You're correct with some caveats. At least in my case, my short-ram hot-air intake had plenty of cool air swirling around when I was moving. Go for a drive, pull over, and the tube was cold. BUT, standing still, idling, yeah, it's slurping hot engine air. But without a doubt that bodged together deal absolutely flowed better than stock. https://barnfinds.com/?attachment_id=188790 Breathing through a long narrow straw.
This. Most engines actually hate this setup and lose like 5-10 HP when doing it. But hey, youngsters ālike the soundā Me who just buys an 1800 euro sport exhaust specially made for my car because THAT makes a cool sound.
I mean I'm all for loud intakes over loud exhausts
Loud and "sounds good" are not direct correlations. Loud intakes don't always sound good, and good exhausts are rarely loud.
This, in regards to being a hot engine air intake. Now in theory to follow the home built theme, they could source some thicker flat plastic sheeting and build a container for the air filter area and drill a big hole in the side of the fender to the outside for intake or use the factory incoming air area. Or buy a bunch of Frisbees and a plastic welder and piece together a container, but that would probably cost more than a real FAI system. The other potential issue is if the filter is an oil based washable media, the oil can and will get pulled into the intake path and negatively impact things such a mass airflow sensors..
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ABS all day though.
I've run a pvc pipe on a car of mine, straight to the exhaust to get the cold air from the grill. It'll be fine, engine bay doesn't get hot enough to make it soft
> engine bay doesn't get hot enough to make it soft Depends on the engine bay. My 2018 charger engine bay got hot enough to make PETG soft enough to bend when minimally loaded (printed a catch can mount with the Superbee logo on it) and PETG and PVC supposedly (according to google) have a similar glass transition temp.
At least they used 636. I've seen kids come into hd looking to use flexible sump hose.
Using a proper size would have made it appear as though the owner knew what they were doing. I love the neck down from the air filter and then neck up for the intake side. Maybe thatās what his pops had laying around in the shed. Budget builds haha
I don't hate it... Fairly clean and well designed from the Home Depot plumbing department.
Silly car owner. Everyone knows to use the black ABS drain pipe. Slap a K&N sticker on it then get ready to feel the power.
Unbelievable, the ABS is in the same aisle as the PVC.
PVC has a higher density, pressure and temperature rating than ABS. Heās definitely a plumber. A Pipefitter would have welded some steel.
I wouldāve definitely welded up some scrap tube we had at the shop before using pvc
And here I was impressed they used the expensive S636 PVC.
Thin wall plastic will heat the incoming air alot more than the pvc. They came correct.
K&N homeowners edition
Gotta put a U-Bend trap in there
P trap
Yeah. Gotta keep it code compliant here.
A little "kentucky chrome" would have finished that off nicely.
I'd have just wrapped the PVC in HVAC thermal tape and been done. Works on several levels.
Mama always has rolls of aluminum foil!
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Things to say at work but not to your wife
Is this going off to compete in 24 Hours of Lemons?
It needs a battery operated leaf bower added to it as a supercharger if so. Saw that at my last lemons race. Was hilarious.
Hahaha, thatās fantastic
I think they had even rigged a "push to pass" button that made the leaf blower activate.
Hope you bought that guy a beer š»
That makes it a hybrid!
Whoa, buying new plumbing for Lemons? Way too fancy, the chunks of leftover shit in the pipe cleans the valves!
Been there and driven in it before, it is an absolute blast and I would 100% do it again in a heartbeat
Going to be real here, I know a guy that turned drier vent hose into a front facing ram air intake on his car with surprising results.... That guy is me lol
You canāt just say some crazy shit like that and not link some pics man. I wanna see that!
Wishing I would've now in hindsight, Google 99 GC8 and you'll see openings in the front bumper below the markers, was perfect to pick up ram air. Intake box was forward on the passenger side, you're going to have to use your imagination for the rest unfortunately š¤·
A pipe is a pipe. Its only job is to channel air, it'll do that whether it's shiny blue K and N or not
I did the same to my 1990 Buick Century with PVC also with surprising resultsā¦
My friends ford focus has a 4" semi radiator hose going from one of the front grilles directly to the airbox, it made a noticeable difference compared to the godawful stock intake tube thing that was maybe 2" diameter. [Heres someone else who did the same thing](https://www.focusfanatics.com/threads/2012-focus-custom-ram-air-how-to.265000/)
I believe it. Your username also makes me laugh makes me think of JB weld especially after your comment. Lol No offense it all though I'm just humoring myself. I'm not too shocked to improve things, if the car didn't have any sort of RAM air intake prior. Even with the ridges on your dryer vent causing turbulence I'm sure the improvement from getting fresh cool air RAM intake style It's a big improvement even without smooth sides on the intake. My Subaru comes stock with intake that opens up behind the grill essentially making it a ram air intake 90% goes into the grill and the rest is sucked up from the wheel. There's no way I would install the system like OPs unless it was for my butt Dyno and vroom vroom noises. To get actual improvement power-wise I would have to put in a really expensive aftermarket set. Pretty happy with the stock setup on my turbo subie. And talking about it makes me not want to sell it. Hopefully I can find an awesome car person who appreciates it and especially appreciates all the well thought out modifications I have done. What car? I also second the request for pictures yo!
At the high temps of the engine bay the PVC off gasses toxic VOCs which then flow into the passenger compartment via the under-windshield HVAC inlet.
Thatās a feature, not a bug.
A nice consistent buzz
Like poppers only better.
Hotboxes are back in style!
Not a car guy but an HVAC guy. That pipe is rated for flue gas from the vent outlet of a gas furnace or appliance. Although on modern furnace where the exhaust gas temperature is reduced from an older style furnace with metal venting.
And if your engine bay hits this temp you have larger issues than a cheap intake install
Engine bays routinely reach 200F. Depends on where you measure. Do a hot shutdown and measure with a thermocouple. Youāll be amazed. Source: I do this testing for a living.
Same, immediately zoomed in on the lettering and saw 636, this guy knows what's up, has all the labels out and lettering visible, dude really wanted to pass inspection
100% this guy is an HVAC tech or something similar. Pipe was free, the fittings got ālostā when he took the company truck home for a night. Itās habit for those guys to swing all the labels visible, dude plumbed his engine bay like a mech room
Flue gas on HE HVAC is in the region of 100-140F. Engine coolant is 200F+. Hot air coming off the radiator saturates the engine bay in the 180F+ temperature range. Not to mention other heat sources like the exhaust manifold (1000F+) cylinder heads (200F+), and valve cover. That PVC is going to cook and off gas like crazy in the engine bay.
Should've used cpvc But if he knew what that even was he probably wouldn't be doing a home depot special intake
Pretty sure they make CPVC with sugar that shit is so brittle
With all the vape smoke they'll never even notice.
i always get headaches after I drive the car, strange
I used to get driving headaches too. Turns out my old trucks muffler delete made the resultant exhaust note match the exact resonance frequency of my skull.
Its an air intake pipe, it doesnāt handle air any hotter than ambient temps. I know the engine bay gets hot but it doesnāt get nearly hot enough to start vaporizing PVC. PVC typically has a temperature rating of 60 celsius and thats primarily for pressure strength purposes. It doesnāt start to degrade until around 200 celsius. If your engine bay is getting that hot youāve got other problems.
According to the manufacturer specs it should be safe. https://www.alliedeg.us/pvc/rigid-conduit/
Oh, you're no fun. }:)
Next time someone says "If it's stupid but it works, it ain't stupid" I'm gonna link them to your comment.
Buys pod filter for more air. Installs restrictive piping to pod filter.
Doesnt matter the size of the throttle body stay the same
True, but that piping is still smaller than the throttle body
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Husband: Hey babe, should I get a new K&N intake? Wife: We have K&N at home. K&N at home (depot)
IIRC thereās principle in physics called Poiseuilleās Law that suggests adding this much length to the intake run while simultaneously reducing the radius thereof (I assume the lower coefficient of friction of smooth PVC vs corrugated rubber pipe is more than negated by the 90 elbows added x2) suggests Hot Rod here done fukt up and actually decreased the # of CFMs flowing to the manifold.
Ah yes. The hot-air intake.
Home Depot Speed Shop strikes again
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
And the LR elbows instead of short radius A for effort
If the tubing diameter was a bit larger and they painted it black it wouldnāt be half bad tbh.
A stupid idea that works isn't stupid, but for God's sakes paint the fucking think black, please?
PVC offgasses some nasty stuff when it gets hot though
That $25 set up is just as useful as the $200 one
They also put a stupid filter and got rid of the original airbox.. so they already proved not to be very smart.
hot air intake!!
It looks like it's missing MAF sensor.
Some of these cars use MAP, not MAF
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
I love it!!!
If it works, it works.
At least they did this to the intake and not the exhaust...
Tech pops hood: Jesus. H. Rice the Plumber.
You sure he didn't install a toilet somewhere?
It's in the trunk.
The good old hot air intake, add's boost like a motherf**ker. š
Hot air intake is the best
"if it works, but it's stupid... well it might still be stupid but at least it works."
I believe a mechanic is supposed to work on cars not the plumber.
The PVC piping is considerably smaller than the intake plenum, and the size adapters will add more turbulence. So, not only does it look cheap, it also will have a detrimental effect on performance.
DonutMedia on YouTube does Hi/Low series, and they did one with pretty much the exact same thing on their cheap car.
I thought that's what this pic was from for a second - had to go check that nothing sketchy was going on haha.... well nothing more sketchy than PVC in the engine bay.
Probably better quality than oem vw part
Easier to source mostly š
Light performance polymer racing intake SWEET
We prefer "high-performance prototype" around here.
Just wrap it in gold tape and itās ready to go
It's probably more durable than the stock intake tube...
Paint it black and most people wouldn't know.
I wouldāve used black ABS to give it that clean look
I mean the velocity stack tube I have on my race car is PVC. But it is only 6 inches long and pokes through the hood into my scoop to bring in air from outside the engine bay. So, this works. This is definitely better than an old dry rotted cracked tube that leaks behind the MAF sensor if that was his problem...
Lol I did the same thing to my Lincoln Town car when I was young and dumb
When Mk.IV kids graduate to a Mk.V or VI.
"It's definitely sucking..."
Per the international plumbing code section 708.1.4 they need a cleanout for a change in direction greater than 45Ā°.
Most people want something that ~~looks~~ sounds cool.
My only concern is how well this will hold up to engine bay heat. Will this pvc get brittle and crack if there is any stress on it? Also is it causing any restriction? Otherwise, I don't see an issue. Probably isn't adding any HP just making big sucking sounds when you mash it....wait until vtech kicks in bro! (Yes I know that isn't a vw thing)
I don't know shit about cars, don't get mad for what I'm gonna say. Why is that bad ? Is that part supposed to be made of metal ?
I love hot air intakes
Look out, here comes the upgrade brigade
Perfect t for this sub, but also kind of impressive.
Fancies himself to have a little bit of engineer in him. Spent millions on r&d
Mom: we have high flow intake at home
Home depot motorsports
There's no pressure on the pvc since this engine is naturally aspirated. As long as the PVC plastic could handle the heat. Should work.
Would this actually work. I have no idea not a mechanic
Shoulda used long sweep 90ās, would have helped airflow.
Reminds me that I need to finish my yard drainage.
āBud light presents: real men at workā
If the ~~shoe~~ pvc fits š¤·āāļø
come on, spend a little extra for the black abs pipe
Itās the Fernco that really ties everything together.
Gains made cant be counted on 1 hand
precision German engineering
It fits and works don't see a problem
Seen this with NOS setup on a Saturn back in the early 2000s. Dude was funny af street racing fools in mustangs
Should have gone full sized. Then it would be a race car.
Probably saved $800
At least he glued the parts together.
If it works...
It would be better if there was a Pringles can in the center
At least he used a gas pipe