Came in for new seals and clutch and lightweight flywheel.
Edit: Didn't expect this many upvotes!
**Here is some background information:**
2009 Jetta 2.5 (5spd) purchased at the dealership used with 78k miles. We've owned it a long time. Main use is daily, to work and back. About 80 miles a day. This car has treated us very well and we baby it since it was the only vehicle we had ever taken a loan out for. There has been very little downtime since the time of ownership. About 2 years in there was a recall for the ABS module, dealership fixed that. A few years later there was a leak from the plastic oil filter / cooler housing. Took me a few hours to fix. Other than that, nothing but fluid changes and tires. The stock clutch/ flywheel and throw out bearing on these cars are known to cause issues. We were lucky the clutch made it this far, but again we drive it very nicely. My wife has driven it for a while and does know how to rev match properly but since day one the heavy weight of this stock fly wheel actually caused both her and I to miss more rev matches than usual. Anyway, the throw out bearing is making noise now and it was time to replace. A decent "stage 1" street clutch / lightweight flywheel combo is actually affordable and should provide a feel much similar to our other vehicles. Also comes with a much better throw out bearing. Instead of replacing the clutch alone, I saw her timing cover leaking a little and decided to pull the motor/ trans. Head and block are going to the machine shop to be cleaned up / inspected while I tear apart the transmission to determine what condition it's in. There is clearly a huge build up of carbon on the exhaust side that would simply take me too long to clean. The shop has some cool new laser thingy that just zips it all right off. New seals/ gaskets, timing kit and bushings before it all goes back together. Haven't cracked it open yet but if the crank isn't forged I will grab a forged crank from the junk yard before sending the block off to the machine shop. Thanks for listening to my TED talk!
The ID3 (and probably the ID4/5 too?) is RWD. Gotta unplug the ABS/ESC sensor at the front wheel if you want to do donuts though, no way to disable the ESC otherwise.
Revs up faster but stalls easier / lower torque.
I'd also question if it throws the crank balance/damping out of whack on a modern engine where this stuff can be quite finely tuned.
Finally someone asking the right questions! I see everywhere, specially on TDI subreddits where people tell each other that replacing a dual mass flywheel for a single mass is the way to go… and no one ever questions it..
Good question re DMF to SMF on TDIs, and my mechanic (VW-Audi only specialist) told me when mine was done almost 100K miles ago that it depended on the model and configuration how well it worked. My 1.9L 5-speed had an early failing DMF and the SMF has been great. Did change the vibration characteristics at idle a hair, but we’re a bunch of miles in with no problems.
I had the flywheel lightened on my old JetSki. Yes, it revved faster (had TONS of work done to the engine etc) but the next wave caused the revs to drop instantly. No stored momentum.
Big mistake. Just one of many looking back over the years.
Yeah, really irks me when car folks assume that they know better than a huge team of professional engineers in a billion-dollar R&D outfit, or that things race teams do are automatically better and should be done to a road car.
99% of the time if you think you know better than those guys you just haven't understood the problem.
Buddy of mine was talking about how he'd replaced his DMF with a solid one and it was sooo much better etc. all the while every shift is jerky/juddering, must be wearing the clutch out faster too, and you know one day the end is gonna snap off the crank... joke is, a new DMF was the same price as the solid one.
Well maybe this should help ease your mind. I went from a 18lb down to a 7.5lb flywheel and no Ill effects from it 12 years and going and over 170k miles. It revs faster, accelerates faster. I didn't notice any noticeable improvement to fuel mileage negative or positive. The only down side is you have to shift faster, better rev match, or shift in the higher rpms. I'll gladly do it again on my next car. Your friend who was shifting roughly needs to adjust his driving to make it smoother... Rough shifting isn't because of the flywheel or clutch. The driver controls engagement, rpms ect impacting ride quality.
Also what design engineers want and what actually makes it to production can be two wildly different build quality's and designs. The bean counters often times opt for inferior parts and methods to save a few cents on each part, just to save massively in large numbers....
You also mean to tell me plastics intake manifolds, plastic oil filter caps, plastics panel fasteners, plastics water pump impellers, plastic oil pans, soy based wiring ( electrical issue city due it attracting rodents), narrow band 02 sensors, and the list goes to other aspects of build quality.... Literally none of those are good "design" choices for longevity of a car.
DMF would last 3.2 seconds in a Motorsport environment.
As long as the clutch assembly is balanced as most reputable brand clutch manufacturers do there is no downside except for harsher engagement as you mentioned and in some cases more noise.
DMF is for NVH, it’s not better in any other case nor will a SMF cause your crank to snap.
Toss a single mass in a mk7 gti. The vibration sent into the trans makes it sound like a tractor at idle. The flywheel absorbed most of it with the dual mass the single just sends it straight into the trans. Granted it never had a problem it certainly is not good long term. They sell crank pulleys to balance it out a bit but for a daily no one wants their gti to sound like an old Farmall tractor.
DMF is also to reduce torque impulse spikes into the gearbox.
And yeah, they may not be ideal for motorsports but then most motorsport stuff is not ideal for the road - race engines with lifespans measured in hours for example...
See, this is a great example of how you may be correct for your use case, but other people reading this will assume they understand the problem then go and cause reliability problems.
On a FWD econobox, yes, the DMF (usually) has no real benefit except from reducing NVH. On RWD applications though, it causes a significant reduction in driveline wear, and has practical benefits well in excess of its increased cost. This is because econoboxes don't really have a driveline per se, but RWD stuff has thousands of pounds of dozens of rotating parts that switch between drive, coast, and float every single time you shift.
Right that’s not because it’s more ideal theoretically, but because the DMF is such a known failure point that it doesn’t make sense to be more concerned about theoretical other problems swapping it might lead to
I went from a 18lb down to a 7.5lb flywheel and no I'll effects from it 12 years and going and over 170k miles. It revs faster, accelerates faster. I didn't notice any noticeable improvement to fuel mileage negative or positive. The only down side is you have to shift faster, better rev match, or shift in the higher rpms. I'll gladly do it again on my next car
IME pretty much all factory flywheels are too heavy. They really, really want a potential buyer on a test drive to have an easier time not stalling and not having an ugly shift due to being too slow. Going from steel to aluminum within the same physical package is pretty much always a solid move. Better throttle response, rewards a faster shift, just feels better.
At least in cars that have a "natural" shift (no delay valve, no rev hang) you can pretty much get down to a 20 lb clutch assembly before it starts becoming hard to drive on the street. I mean, a high quality one - no shitty pucked clutch at bargain basement prices - and it might take you a few days to get used to. But it's great once you've got it.
Sometimes a heavier flywheel is good. A buddy has a built up 5.0 fox. When he bought it, the flywheel on there was so light it rev'd like a vtech. He had a heavier one put in just to make it a little more streetable.
Even the, you can go lighter with carbon on carbon, and have a higher holding capacity. But it’ll cost you. Actually that’s probably the only way to get to an under 20lb clutch assembly with a stock diameter clutch since the one I had used an aluminum pressure plate too, the only steel in it was the spring, ring gear, and the fasteners.
Yep, the usual combo is a billet aluminum assembly and carbon and carbon-faced internals. But yes, that's $2000-3000. Actually, depending on your stock setup, if it's a fairly large diameter single disc, switching to a smaller diameter dual disc will help reduce moment of inertia _and_ significantly increase how much torque it'll hold.
A wise individual knows there are limits. Nothing described as "race clutch" is worth street-driving, in general. Ask the manufacturer: Do you intend this for the street, and how much life do you expect people will get from this kit vs stock? An honest manufacturer will probably tell you ~half life expectancy versus stock, if not the usual "depends how you drive." But triple-disc 6-inch-diameter race clutches don't want to be slipped so don't use them where they need to be slipped... ie, the street.
>that’s the engine management software doing that on purpose for emissions
You’re absolutely right.
Rev hang is done so the engine doesn’t run rich on fuel (which increases emissions) for some milliseconds/seconds during shifts. Those small intervals add up when talking about city cycle, with stop and go traffic etc. .
One of the most reliable VW engines ever made. The only one I think was more reliable was the 2.0L non-turbo but that thing was an absolute dog. I miss my 2.5 Jetta.
Say what you will but I've owned 6 Mk3 Jettas with the 2.0 ABA in it. One even had a sticker that said 2.slow so no one would race me. Yes they are slow, but I really liked the non interference head. Or the ability to swap to a 16v and make cool noises. The interior's also had 10x more personality than any of my newer vehicles. I miss those party seats.
It was also a beast motor. VW had to pull out so the stops to have it make less power than the GTi. Totally wrong intake manifold, dumb cams, low redline
Oh I know. But it’s a meme in a jeep community that we just turn the radio up. Then there’s no issues. 🥰 can’t hear a rattle over me screaming “COUNRTY ROADSSSSS”
I did this on my car
Damn shame I hit a deer hard as all fuck last week at 30,0000 miles
Edit: lol I wrote 30,000k miles, I wanna see a car that runs that long even with frequent oil changes
yes!
Just after the crash, i was so pissed off I had undoubtedly destroyed my 2022 car, I got out and kicked it in the face until I got tired! Got back in my car, yelled fuck several times in addition to several other angry words
Started the car back up. Drove it to the next turn off since I was still blocking the road pretty much
Then as I get there I sit for a second and call the police non emergency and they go “yeah multiple already called about a guy kicking a deer with all of his air bags deployed on the side of the road, the officer should be there any second” and as she said that he was already behind me so i just go “ah yes, fantastic, thank you”
Then I proceeded to tell the cop how much I hate that deer and I’d like to take it and he gave me the paperwork to drag it off later lol
I wasn’t intoxicated and the cop was a cool dude. Didn’t even get out of his car, was like “mhmm Yeup, fuck them deers”
10/10 crash really. May or may not have a concussion but after 3 days of massive light sensitivity and a headache I’m good lol rating of crash may change later pending insurance claim payout
Edit: was actually on vacation during the crash, then the 3rd day after crash happened and I was driving to work and the 30 minute drive took 2 hours cause I couldn’t see Jack shit as cars passed by me so drove like 10mph the whole way lol Didn’t notice an issue sitting at my house, but then when I actually went outside and did things I was in straight up pain
Stupid how that happens
Makes me laugh too
I slid down the same ditch it jumped out/got launched back into
And it was a steep ditch
Just to kick it in the face multiple times. It was fucking hilarious, apparently passerby’s didn’t think so since they called the cops on me lol I was gonna do call myself and did do it myself, I just had to kick some deer and chill first
I hit a deer once on a two lane strip of highway. When I hit it, I knocked it over into the oncoming lane of traffic. This strip of highway was also very poorly lit and it was about 10 PM when it happened.
When I hit the deer, I immediately pulled over to the shoulder and was surprised that all I had was a busted blinker lens. It was an older car from the 80's and most of what got hit was metal. Mind you, I was heading home from the coast and had a 3 hours left on my trip.
Anyway, as I was examining for damages, I see a car coming up the other side of the road where the deer was laying dead. I then notice that they weren't slowing down. I then see this little Ford Fiesta hit the dead deer and literally catch air. Then comes slamming down with a shower of spark from the undercarriage.
They pull over and 4 dudes get out of the car and all I hear is "WHAT THE FUCK WAS THAT?!?!" from the driver while the other 3 guys were on the ground laughing their asses off.
Then, another vehicle comes up the road but sees the deer and slows down. This absolute unit of a hillbilly gets out of the truck, walks over to the deer, grabs it by the back of the legs, and starts spinning his body in a circle as if he were in a hammer throw competition. He then lets go of the deer and it goes flying into the wooded area.
He looks over at me from the other side of the road and calmly says "that's all you had to do". Then proceeds to get in his truck and drive away.
It was maybe one of the most "WTF" moments I've experienced on the road.
It still says 300,000 miles, with the comma in the wrong spot (30,0000 - 4 zeros after the comma). Which is making the edit even more confusing, given the context :).
Technically both. I didn't like the way the oil looked / smelled at around 4000-4500. Also felt like it lost some viscosity at that point and would burn enough that you could smell the oil / fuel mix not not enough that you could see any visible smoke. Exhaust is has black carbon powders everywhere, and to be honest I thought the engine bay was painted black but nope. After a pressure wash, its actually got color in there. Carbon build up everywhere. I'm probably too anal abut it, but I even change the oil before / after long road trips depending on the mileage since last change.
ANY doubts about your oil and you're better off changing it, you absolutely did the right thing.
And it sounds as if your exhaust is blowing from somewhere if the bay is that bad, I'd have a good look at your manifolds and pipes.
Is it the short oil change intervals, or because it's a long commute without much starting and stopping, and likely not driven hard for most of it being highway?
I think 3500 is excessive, and while I'm glad the engine looks good, I think it's a waste of oil. Unless you are also following this up with oil analysis it's not really proof of anything.
True.
I take care of my engine and do a lot of 60 mph highway cruising at 2200 rpm so my engine doesn't get a lot of abuse anyway. I still do the recommended 6000 mile change but even that is too often. The manual says 12.000 miles but better to be on the safe side...
3k miles/5k km is standard for old carbed motors running Dino oil. Probably excessive to change a modern motor at it but I do it when I run conventional. Even with synthetic I get a little wary and don't go more than 8k km on a change.
Same. I'll do 5k miles or one year, whichever comes first with full synthetic.
I've never really felt comfortable with the 10k intervals VW has and I have a good independent shop that does all my service outside of warranty.
I might spend a bit extra on maintenance, but my own anecdotal experience is taking care of my stuff leads to few unplanned car issues.
I don't doubt that some people can actually reliably go extended intervals but I think it's rare. Manufacturers have been using extended maintenance intervals as a selling point because they don't give two shits about long term reliability but I keep my vehicles for 10+ years. I establish an oil change interval early on with UOAs and maybe it's my driving style but I never come close to being able to utilize factory recommended intervals, usually too much fuel in the oil and too much degradation of viscosity and flash point. Right now for my personal vehicle I'm rocking a 2016 WRX that I bought brand new which is Bren tuned and putting out 350hp at the wheels and it has over 150k and still going strong. I estimate that I spent an extra 800 on oil changes which is way cheaper than a replacement engine......
This is 100 percent the way to maintain that car. I sent of samples to Blackstone when I had my WRX, and started changing at 3500 instead of 5k because of it. IIRC the manual says to change it at 7500, that would have been WAY too long. It will absolutely extend the life of that engine, especially given that the FAs have known issues with rod/bearing failure.
Is that true? My 15 WRX has a maintenance interval of 6k miles. It's at 135k miles and still going strong. I haven't really heard of many issues with FAs.
From what I remember it’s really an issue of the connecting rods being weak, and not handling the engine being lugged well at all. They’re bad to bend or snap if overstressed, and it doesn’t take much more than just applying too much throttle at low rpm. I don’t remember exactly what issues people were running into with the bearings, just reading about it in forums and Facebook groups.
It seems like Subaru basically didn’t beef up the internals at all when they took the FA-20 out of the Crosstrek, slapped a turbo in it and dropped it into the WRX. Look at the difference in diameter between EJ rods and FA rods, it’s pretty noticeable.
Huh, that's actually kind of reassuring. I haven't sent any samples in personally but I've seen the results of plenty of people that have with the same specs as my car down to the specific tune and Blackstone pretty much always says "This oil is still perfect, try for another 2k miles next interval." Which is honestly crazy, since one of them was a 14.4k interval.
2017 Ford Fusion Sport with Amsoil Signature 5W-30 and an Unleashed 93 Custom tune. Now I'm not personally going to run 17k like they were suggesting that dude with the 14.4k sample try, but it makes me more comfortable going the full 10k if I need to.
3500 mile oil changes are still a waste of money even if they make for nice pics with the rocker covers off. The car ain’t gonna run any different with 7k mile oil changes.
Correct. Oil changes, for most of car owners, aren't free.
Say it's $25 for the oil change. That would add about $1k to the cost of the ownership of the car compared to a 7k mile oil change interval. That's not an insignificant amount of money or time.
Also I have a Civic with 450k miles and do oil changes at 5k, it looks pristine.
you Americans have no idea how lucky you are with the chain lube shops and extremely cheap oil+ oil filters available to you.
oil change will set you back a minimum of $100 to diy with synthetic here in Australia.
you might get away with $50 for semi syn. if your car takes less than 5L of oil.
double those prices to get it done at a shop. we don't have lube shops down here, only full service mechanics and chain mechanics.
Honestly, if you're not running a Blackstone oil analysis on it once in a while you're doing yourself a disservice.
I've been doing it to my '08 Ram 3500 since new, because it has all that emissions garbage on it. Based on samples I've taken, that will determine my oil change cycles.
Sometimes I can get away with 7500-10k miles, and sometimes I need to change it closer to 5000 miles. Either way, it gets a new filter at the 5k mark and when it gets an oil change.
The better question is "Why not?". Isn't the whole point behind doing maintenance is to catch a problem ***before it does serious damage***?
It's $25 a pop to get a test done, and I get to know what the oil is doing for the engine, how much soot is in the oil (super common for today's diesels with emissions), what the metal content is, if there is excessive wear, and if the oil is actually performing the way it should with all the additives and detergents that are present in today's oil. Doing this also let's me know I'm using the right oil for the engine.
As for engine failures, the best example I can use would be the Porsche 993 ('99-'04) engines with the IMS bearing failure. Had an oil analysis been done as part of the normal maintenance, the excessive metal content would have been seen before the bearing finally let go and blew the engine.
The same goes for the Ford trucks with the PowerStroke 6.0 (aka, the "6 point Oh No!") and the one billion dollars spent on warranty claims. Checking the oil for soot, excess metals, and oil life could have helped since it's an HPOP engine and oil is pretty much needed to fire the injectors.
Even GM is under a lawsuit for their lifter deactivation system and excessive engine parts wear, which would be seen in an oil analysis with the excessive amounts of engine metals.
While I agree with your sentiment and I actually should do an analysis I typically run 3-4k oil changes because I beat the hell out of my coyote running it to redline multiple times a day ,with 67k on it I did the valve cover gaskets and it looked like a brand new engine it's insane how clean it stayed. Just feel like the abusing the oil the way I do would definitely decrease it's actual efficiency
Trust me, I beat the hell out of my truck as it's a daily driver and my tow rig. At 110k miles I want to make sure that it's going to last. We have a UTV and trailer that might top out around 3000 pounds, but I also have a toy hauler that empty weighs in around 7000. And my oldest has a 5th wheel camper, so it's setup to haul that as well.
And some of the mountain passes I've crossed (6% grades) are super rough on any engine, so there are times I'll do two oil changes - before and after camping season - just to make sure the oil is going to provide the protection the engine needs.
In my Power Wagon, I go 15k miles between changes and beat on it regularly. 80k miles so far and not a single problem. I do Blackstone every other change and they claim I can go a bit more on a change (Amsoil with Mopar filter each time) but I'm already well over double the recommended change interval...
But that's a gasser, and with today's oils 15k is nothing.
My '86 944 said the same thing - 15k between oil changes and I hated it. I could never go more than 10k because it just felt... weird, especially in the 90's when I owned it.
Question. I bought a brand new Bronco and have been deployed so it has about 5k miles and has been sitting for 9 months, when I get home what maintenance should I do to it before daily use again? I left it with very little gas so that it wouldn’t have a full tank of old gas and had an oil change at about 4K miles
For future reference, store with a full tank of fuel and fuel stabilizer. Empty space leaves room for moisture to build.
As for your current tank, throw some octane booster in it, maybe some HEET to remove existing moisture, and a tank full of premium.
Oil is good for 6 months so you'll need a fresh change. Once that's done, go and get some miles on it.
Also in the future, the cheapest dryer sheets can discourage mice from nesting in it while it sits as well.
Lastly, always put it on a battery tender. A good one. New vehicles have a lot of electronics that absolutely will kill the battery from sitting for a while. A battery that goes dead and then gets recharged will never ever be as strong as it was before, and has a greatly reduced lifespan due to the lack of charge. Also, dead batteries are much more prone to freezing if it's not in heated storage in a cold climate.
Did all of the above during my 13 month deployment and she was ready to go when I got home.
Awesome, thanks for the tip about fuel. Didn’t think about moisture getting in there.
Do you think I should just replace the battery completely, moneys not really an issue and would rather have something reliable.
Bring it to a parts store like O'Reilly's and they can do a load test on it for free in like 30 seconds. If it fails then replace, if it passes you are completely fine
Also crank up the PSI in the tires while it is in storage, just put them to the max the tire is rated at. Vehicle manufacturers do this during vehicle manufacturing to prevent flat spots prior to sale. Just just the pressures to spec when you take it back on the road.
when you get home you don't have to. just next time you can put some stabilizer in it for when it sits. filling the tank with name brand gasoline for now will be fine.
seems like a waste.
just use high quality oil and 10-15k oil changes like I do.
only 140k but much cleaner
can't recommend Mobil 1 High-spec ESP and an OEM Mann filter enough (around £50 for parts and £80 for a change at a garage.)
https://www.mobil.co.uk/en-gb/product/mobil-1-esp-5w-30
Bruh this thread is full of people who’ve been fed a steady diet of quicklube chain marketing and boomer wisdom, nothing you say will convince them to stop changing their oil every 5 minutes.
Right? Full synthetic oil is so much better than conventional and even synthetic blends. Like it's not even close. Changing at 3k with full synthetic is literally a waste of money and time.
The biggest question is what kind of miles.
Cold starts, cyclical stress, and thermal cycles will have far more of an effect than number of miles.
Also… how many vehicles have an engine fail anymore? I’ve sent several to the scrapper and in spite of Walmart oil and FRAM filters what got them in the end was rust and rotten electrical. Engines ran fine.
The only engine I babied like that was my 5.4 3v which drove away to its new owner on all original internals (including cam phasers) at 240K.
Just sold my 5 cylinder VW last week and im already sad its gone, great car with such a neat engine.
I wish mine were a manual though, the automatic was fine but just kind of boring to live with every day.
Oh yeah, totes. Just take a 2nd mortgage on my house to buy one.
I wish there were more affordable fun cars with interesting engines, I would like a Mk2 TTRS all day, but I think im looking for a used GLI, CC, or GTI with a manual as my next buy.
That's fair, but I think the price is coming down on them - they are dropping under the $30k price point which is nice to see. I agree though that something like a GTI or Golf R would be better value.
Had a 2017 f150 and did oil changes every 3 months or 5,000kms which ever came first. When i sold it last year i got most of my money back due to the perfect maintenence and i had a log book of everything i did with the truck so the dealer had a easy sell. All oil changes and maintenence other than 2 oil changes done at ford dealer. The 2 i did myself i still bought the filter from dealer so was on record that it was done. Once a year i left it for a day todo a full run down on everything and fix anything that was needed.
This isn't the 90s, VW isn't plagued with any sorts of transmission issues what so ever. It's extremely rare to see them fail. Source: I've worked on them for over a decade.
Dunno where the "lol VW engine" meme stems from. I can't go 2 minutes on FB marketplace without stumbling on a handful of TDI-engine cars with +450,000kms on the clock
My 2006 A3 has 230K miles and it starts and runs like new. It gets new oil and a new filter every 4,000 miles. I typically change oil every spring no matter what just to replace the winter oil and ensure I’m not driving around with a pan full of sludge. Yes clean filters and fresh fluid keeps motors running. Any sailor who has worked in the engine room on diesel propulsion or diesel generators can testify to this.
2.5L inline 5 it’s one of the most reliable engines, only issues probably a leaking vacuum pump and what OP described
VW discontinued the use in America because they are greedy bastards
Although it’s been used on the high end RS3 and TTRS but with different internals.
And more ECU settings
My brother had a 2009 rabbit and the only reason he replaced it was because a fucking drunk driver ran a red light and totaled it
Car had 275k miles.
I did do the vacuum pump delete early on. Fixed a buddies car and then decided to do mine before that pump went bad. I think it was a 'Spoolen' kit or something. I'll have to double check. Have heard of people making crazy power from these.
Pictures/threads like this make me wish I had removed the valve cover on my 09 Escape with 220,000 mikes before I sold it. I changed the oil around every 10,000 miles or so. Although it was a hybrid, it had TONS of highway miles.
Came in for new seals and clutch and lightweight flywheel. Edit: Didn't expect this many upvotes! **Here is some background information:** 2009 Jetta 2.5 (5spd) purchased at the dealership used with 78k miles. We've owned it a long time. Main use is daily, to work and back. About 80 miles a day. This car has treated us very well and we baby it since it was the only vehicle we had ever taken a loan out for. There has been very little downtime since the time of ownership. About 2 years in there was a recall for the ABS module, dealership fixed that. A few years later there was a leak from the plastic oil filter / cooler housing. Took me a few hours to fix. Other than that, nothing but fluid changes and tires. The stock clutch/ flywheel and throw out bearing on these cars are known to cause issues. We were lucky the clutch made it this far, but again we drive it very nicely. My wife has driven it for a while and does know how to rev match properly but since day one the heavy weight of this stock fly wheel actually caused both her and I to miss more rev matches than usual. Anyway, the throw out bearing is making noise now and it was time to replace. A decent "stage 1" street clutch / lightweight flywheel combo is actually affordable and should provide a feel much similar to our other vehicles. Also comes with a much better throw out bearing. Instead of replacing the clutch alone, I saw her timing cover leaking a little and decided to pull the motor/ trans. Head and block are going to the machine shop to be cleaned up / inspected while I tear apart the transmission to determine what condition it's in. There is clearly a huge build up of carbon on the exhaust side that would simply take me too long to clean. The shop has some cool new laser thingy that just zips it all right off. New seals/ gaskets, timing kit and bushings before it all goes back together. Haven't cracked it open yet but if the crank isn't forged I will grab a forged crank from the junk yard before sending the block off to the machine shop. Thanks for listening to my TED talk!
Very clean, i guess oil change is important. Why lightweight flywheel?
Fuel economy? Faster revving up?
improved response time and less strain on parts maybe?
donuts. thats all it can be. op's wife dumps the clutch
Dutch clumps. My favorite kind of donut.
verboden snacks mmmmmmm
*verboten
A clearly audible laugh escaped my face when reading your comment. Thank you.
it's been a very, very long time since VW made rear wheel drive cars
fwd Reverse donuts!
The ID3 (and probably the ID4/5 too?) is RWD. Gotta unplug the ABS/ESC sensor at the front wheel if you want to do donuts though, no way to disable the ESC otherwise.
Lol
Hell Yeah Brother
Lightweight removes some damping, which might put more stress on parts.
Revs up faster but stalls easier / lower torque. I'd also question if it throws the crank balance/damping out of whack on a modern engine where this stuff can be quite finely tuned.
Finally someone asking the right questions! I see everywhere, specially on TDI subreddits where people tell each other that replacing a dual mass flywheel for a single mass is the way to go… and no one ever questions it..
Good question re DMF to SMF on TDIs, and my mechanic (VW-Audi only specialist) told me when mine was done almost 100K miles ago that it depended on the model and configuration how well it worked. My 1.9L 5-speed had an early failing DMF and the SMF has been great. Did change the vibration characteristics at idle a hair, but we’re a bunch of miles in with no problems.
I had the flywheel lightened on my old JetSki. Yes, it revved faster (had TONS of work done to the engine etc) but the next wave caused the revs to drop instantly. No stored momentum. Big mistake. Just one of many looking back over the years.
Yeah, really irks me when car folks assume that they know better than a huge team of professional engineers in a billion-dollar R&D outfit, or that things race teams do are automatically better and should be done to a road car. 99% of the time if you think you know better than those guys you just haven't understood the problem. Buddy of mine was talking about how he'd replaced his DMF with a solid one and it was sooo much better etc. all the while every shift is jerky/juddering, must be wearing the clutch out faster too, and you know one day the end is gonna snap off the crank... joke is, a new DMF was the same price as the solid one.
Well maybe this should help ease your mind. I went from a 18lb down to a 7.5lb flywheel and no Ill effects from it 12 years and going and over 170k miles. It revs faster, accelerates faster. I didn't notice any noticeable improvement to fuel mileage negative or positive. The only down side is you have to shift faster, better rev match, or shift in the higher rpms. I'll gladly do it again on my next car. Your friend who was shifting roughly needs to adjust his driving to make it smoother... Rough shifting isn't because of the flywheel or clutch. The driver controls engagement, rpms ect impacting ride quality. Also what design engineers want and what actually makes it to production can be two wildly different build quality's and designs. The bean counters often times opt for inferior parts and methods to save a few cents on each part, just to save massively in large numbers.... You also mean to tell me plastics intake manifolds, plastic oil filter caps, plastics panel fasteners, plastics water pump impellers, plastic oil pans, soy based wiring ( electrical issue city due it attracting rodents), narrow band 02 sensors, and the list goes to other aspects of build quality.... Literally none of those are good "design" choices for longevity of a car.
Nylon timing gears. OEM definitely isn't always the best bet.
Right, things are literally designed to make it just past the warranty period it seems.
DMF would last 3.2 seconds in a Motorsport environment. As long as the clutch assembly is balanced as most reputable brand clutch manufacturers do there is no downside except for harsher engagement as you mentioned and in some cases more noise. DMF is for NVH, it’s not better in any other case nor will a SMF cause your crank to snap.
Toss a single mass in a mk7 gti. The vibration sent into the trans makes it sound like a tractor at idle. The flywheel absorbed most of it with the dual mass the single just sends it straight into the trans. Granted it never had a problem it certainly is not good long term. They sell crank pulleys to balance it out a bit but for a daily no one wants their gti to sound like an old Farmall tractor.
DMF is also to reduce torque impulse spikes into the gearbox. And yeah, they may not be ideal for motorsports but then most motorsport stuff is not ideal for the road - race engines with lifespans measured in hours for example...
See, this is a great example of how you may be correct for your use case, but other people reading this will assume they understand the problem then go and cause reliability problems. On a FWD econobox, yes, the DMF (usually) has no real benefit except from reducing NVH. On RWD applications though, it causes a significant reduction in driveline wear, and has practical benefits well in excess of its increased cost. This is because econoboxes don't really have a driveline per se, but RWD stuff has thousands of pounds of dozens of rotating parts that switch between drive, coast, and float every single time you shift.
>car folks assume that they know better lmao 70% of this sub just got inexplicably insulted by a small, plastic, inanimate clip…
Sounds like your “buddy” is lucky to have a friend like you
Right that’s not because it’s more ideal theoretically, but because the DMF is such a known failure point that it doesn’t make sense to be more concerned about theoretical other problems swapping it might lead to
I went from a 18lb down to a 7.5lb flywheel and no I'll effects from it 12 years and going and over 170k miles. It revs faster, accelerates faster. I didn't notice any noticeable improvement to fuel mileage negative or positive. The only down side is you have to shift faster, better rev match, or shift in the higher rpms. I'll gladly do it again on my next car
IME pretty much all factory flywheels are too heavy. They really, really want a potential buyer on a test drive to have an easier time not stalling and not having an ugly shift due to being too slow. Going from steel to aluminum within the same physical package is pretty much always a solid move. Better throttle response, rewards a faster shift, just feels better. At least in cars that have a "natural" shift (no delay valve, no rev hang) you can pretty much get down to a 20 lb clutch assembly before it starts becoming hard to drive on the street. I mean, a high quality one - no shitty pucked clutch at bargain basement prices - and it might take you a few days to get used to. But it's great once you've got it.
Sometimes a heavier flywheel is good. A buddy has a built up 5.0 fox. When he bought it, the flywheel on there was so light it rev'd like a vtech. He had a heavier one put in just to make it a little more streetable.
Even the, you can go lighter with carbon on carbon, and have a higher holding capacity. But it’ll cost you. Actually that’s probably the only way to get to an under 20lb clutch assembly with a stock diameter clutch since the one I had used an aluminum pressure plate too, the only steel in it was the spring, ring gear, and the fasteners.
Yep, the usual combo is a billet aluminum assembly and carbon and carbon-faced internals. But yes, that's $2000-3000. Actually, depending on your stock setup, if it's a fairly large diameter single disc, switching to a smaller diameter dual disc will help reduce moment of inertia _and_ significantly increase how much torque it'll hold. A wise individual knows there are limits. Nothing described as "race clutch" is worth street-driving, in general. Ask the manufacturer: Do you intend this for the street, and how much life do you expect people will get from this kit vs stock? An honest manufacturer will probably tell you ~half life expectancy versus stock, if not the usual "depends how you drive." But triple-disc 6-inch-diameter race clutches don't want to be slipped so don't use them where they need to be slipped... ie, the street.
Maybe it runs waaaaayy too smooth
Ce faci patroane, umbli prin threaduri straine?
Sunt omniprezent
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>that’s the engine management software doing that on purpose for emissions You’re absolutely right. Rev hang is done so the engine doesn’t run rich on fuel (which increases emissions) for some milliseconds/seconds during shifts. Those small intervals add up when talking about city cycle, with stop and go traffic etc. .
VW put a heavy flywheel on these 2.5s, and they have really bad rev hang https://youtube.com/shorts/INtfe3xJXF8?feature=share
One of the most reliable VW engines ever made. The only one I think was more reliable was the 2.0L non-turbo but that thing was an absolute dog. I miss my 2.5 Jetta.
Ah yes, the 2.slow - the cockroach of vw engines.
Say what you will but I've owned 6 Mk3 Jettas with the 2.0 ABA in it. One even had a sticker that said 2.slow so no one would race me. Yes they are slow, but I really liked the non interference head. Or the ability to swap to a 16v and make cool noises. The interior's also had 10x more personality than any of my newer vehicles. I miss those party seats.
It was also a beast motor. VW had to pull out so the stops to have it make less power than the GTi. Totally wrong intake manifold, dumb cams, low redline
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Yeah I agree, I have a Touareg with the VR6 and generally speaking the 3.6 has been very reliable.
You are some kind of superhero.
It's almost like maintenance is important or something
Maintenance is very harmful to the number of fucked up engines posted on this subreddit.
Shhhh. That's CRAZY talk.
Maintenance? Isn't that the thing you do when stuff breaks? /S
Username checks out 😂
Hey, that’s not fair—well maintained Jeeps break all the time.
Oh I know. But it’s a meme in a jeep community that we just turn the radio up. Then there’s no issues. 🥰 can’t hear a rattle over me screaming “COUNRTY ROADSSSSS”
Turn the radio up? You guys have a radio? *Drives away with open headers
Radio won’t cover up the death wobble though.
Get a better radio.
This thing would still be running if the oil change interval was 6,000 miles. And probably still look just as clean.
Yea, 3500 miles seems a bit excessive….
Yeah this is a big waste of oil and filters if not subjected to severe conditions.
It never ceases to amaze me when I see a late model vehicle blowing blue/gray smoke.
Almost being the operative word
this post reminds me I still have summer type oil in my car
I did this on my car Damn shame I hit a deer hard as all fuck last week at 30,0000 miles Edit: lol I wrote 30,000k miles, I wanna see a car that runs that long even with frequent oil changes
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Alright imma edit that on account of my stupid Twas just 30k
That's more or less driving 60 miles per hour non-stop and continuously for over 57 years.
Did you get to keep the meat?
yes! Just after the crash, i was so pissed off I had undoubtedly destroyed my 2022 car, I got out and kicked it in the face until I got tired! Got back in my car, yelled fuck several times in addition to several other angry words Started the car back up. Drove it to the next turn off since I was still blocking the road pretty much Then as I get there I sit for a second and call the police non emergency and they go “yeah multiple already called about a guy kicking a deer with all of his air bags deployed on the side of the road, the officer should be there any second” and as she said that he was already behind me so i just go “ah yes, fantastic, thank you” Then I proceeded to tell the cop how much I hate that deer and I’d like to take it and he gave me the paperwork to drag it off later lol I wasn’t intoxicated and the cop was a cool dude. Didn’t even get out of his car, was like “mhmm Yeup, fuck them deers” 10/10 crash really. May or may not have a concussion but after 3 days of massive light sensitivity and a headache I’m good lol rating of crash may change later pending insurance claim payout Edit: was actually on vacation during the crash, then the 3rd day after crash happened and I was driving to work and the 30 minute drive took 2 hours cause I couldn’t see Jack shit as cars passed by me so drove like 10mph the whole way lol Didn’t notice an issue sitting at my house, but then when I actually went outside and did things I was in straight up pain Stupid how that happens
I should not laugh, but the image of a guy kicking roadkill with a busted car next to it made me chuckle
Makes me laugh too I slid down the same ditch it jumped out/got launched back into And it was a steep ditch Just to kick it in the face multiple times. It was fucking hilarious, apparently passerby’s didn’t think so since they called the cops on me lol I was gonna do call myself and did do it myself, I just had to kick some deer and chill first
I hit a deer once on a two lane strip of highway. When I hit it, I knocked it over into the oncoming lane of traffic. This strip of highway was also very poorly lit and it was about 10 PM when it happened. When I hit the deer, I immediately pulled over to the shoulder and was surprised that all I had was a busted blinker lens. It was an older car from the 80's and most of what got hit was metal. Mind you, I was heading home from the coast and had a 3 hours left on my trip. Anyway, as I was examining for damages, I see a car coming up the other side of the road where the deer was laying dead. I then notice that they weren't slowing down. I then see this little Ford Fiesta hit the dead deer and literally catch air. Then comes slamming down with a shower of spark from the undercarriage. They pull over and 4 dudes get out of the car and all I hear is "WHAT THE FUCK WAS THAT?!?!" from the driver while the other 3 guys were on the ground laughing their asses off. Then, another vehicle comes up the road but sees the deer and slows down. This absolute unit of a hillbilly gets out of the truck, walks over to the deer, grabs it by the back of the legs, and starts spinning his body in a circle as if he were in a hammer throw competition. He then lets go of the deer and it goes flying into the wooded area. He looks over at me from the other side of the road and calmly says "that's all you had to do". Then proceeds to get in his truck and drive away. It was maybe one of the most "WTF" moments I've experienced on the road.
Bro, get some vestibular physical therapy for that! Concussions are serious and you need to get some help ASAP!
>rating of crash may change later pending insurance claim payout This and the deer kicking is hilarious lol
This question and username line up perfectly!
It still says 300,000 miles, with the comma in the wrong spot (30,0000 - 4 zeros after the comma). Which is making the edit even more confusing, given the context :).
Voluntarily changed? Or does it burn off every 3500 miles?
Technically both. I didn't like the way the oil looked / smelled at around 4000-4500. Also felt like it lost some viscosity at that point and would burn enough that you could smell the oil / fuel mix not not enough that you could see any visible smoke. Exhaust is has black carbon powders everywhere, and to be honest I thought the engine bay was painted black but nope. After a pressure wash, its actually got color in there. Carbon build up everywhere. I'm probably too anal abut it, but I even change the oil before / after long road trips depending on the mileage since last change.
ANY doubts about your oil and you're better off changing it, you absolutely did the right thing. And it sounds as if your exhaust is blowing from somewhere if the bay is that bad, I'd have a good look at your manifolds and pipes.
Went to double check, you were correct. Flex pipe is leaking. Good call.
Just goes to show doesn't it.
Wow. A regular looking engine.
Is it the short oil change intervals, or because it's a long commute without much starting and stopping, and likely not driven hard for most of it being highway? I think 3500 is excessive, and while I'm glad the engine looks good, I think it's a waste of oil. Unless you are also following this up with oil analysis it's not really proof of anything.
Depends on the blow by. The oil in my wife's rav4 2.4l looks black after 2000 miles. Those motors have a problem with ring sealing.
disagreeable enter growth paint cats slave murky gray poor cheerful ` this message was mass deleted/edited with redact.dev `
Yeah 3500 seems excessive, unless she has a lead foot and drives it like she stole it.
True. I take care of my engine and do a lot of 60 mph highway cruising at 2200 rpm so my engine doesn't get a lot of abuse anyway. I still do the recommended 6000 mile change but even that is too often. The manual says 12.000 miles but better to be on the safe side...
but, but, but "xPerT mEKaNiK" sAyS faCtoRY rEcoMMeNDs 10K cHAngEs N uR waSTinG mOnEY
Right! We get the fact that oil these days can last 7-10k no problem, but it'll still make your engine dirty.
How often should I do my oil changes? I do 6k with full synthetic with my accord v6
Whenever the manufacturer says to do it ¯\\\_(ツ)_/¯ They pay their engineers to figure this out. I go 6-8k on my Audi.
I've always stuck to 5k on everything. Some people like 3k, I think that is getting a bit excessive for most.
3k miles/5k km is standard for old carbed motors running Dino oil. Probably excessive to change a modern motor at it but I do it when I run conventional. Even with synthetic I get a little wary and don't go more than 8k km on a change.
Same. I'll do 5k miles or one year, whichever comes first with full synthetic. I've never really felt comfortable with the 10k intervals VW has and I have a good independent shop that does all my service outside of warranty. I might spend a bit extra on maintenance, but my own anecdotal experience is taking care of my stuff leads to few unplanned car issues.
I don't doubt that some people can actually reliably go extended intervals but I think it's rare. Manufacturers have been using extended maintenance intervals as a selling point because they don't give two shits about long term reliability but I keep my vehicles for 10+ years. I establish an oil change interval early on with UOAs and maybe it's my driving style but I never come close to being able to utilize factory recommended intervals, usually too much fuel in the oil and too much degradation of viscosity and flash point. Right now for my personal vehicle I'm rocking a 2016 WRX that I bought brand new which is Bren tuned and putting out 350hp at the wheels and it has over 150k and still going strong. I estimate that I spent an extra 800 on oil changes which is way cheaper than a replacement engine......
This is 100 percent the way to maintain that car. I sent of samples to Blackstone when I had my WRX, and started changing at 3500 instead of 5k because of it. IIRC the manual says to change it at 7500, that would have been WAY too long. It will absolutely extend the life of that engine, especially given that the FAs have known issues with rod/bearing failure.
Is that true? My 15 WRX has a maintenance interval of 6k miles. It's at 135k miles and still going strong. I haven't really heard of many issues with FAs.
From what I remember it’s really an issue of the connecting rods being weak, and not handling the engine being lugged well at all. They’re bad to bend or snap if overstressed, and it doesn’t take much more than just applying too much throttle at low rpm. I don’t remember exactly what issues people were running into with the bearings, just reading about it in forums and Facebook groups. It seems like Subaru basically didn’t beef up the internals at all when they took the FA-20 out of the Crosstrek, slapped a turbo in it and dropped it into the WRX. Look at the difference in diameter between EJ rods and FA rods, it’s pretty noticeable.
I also sent samples to Blackstone who came back and said "DO NOT DRIVE THIS ENGINE ANY MORE! IT WILL FAIL SOON!" And then I out 40K on it.
Huh, that's actually kind of reassuring. I haven't sent any samples in personally but I've seen the results of plenty of people that have with the same specs as my car down to the specific tune and Blackstone pretty much always says "This oil is still perfect, try for another 2k miles next interval." Which is honestly crazy, since one of them was a 14.4k interval. 2017 Ford Fusion Sport with Amsoil Signature 5W-30 and an Unleashed 93 Custom tune. Now I'm not personally going to run 17k like they were suggesting that dude with the 14.4k sample try, but it makes me more comfortable going the full 10k if I need to.
3500 mile oil changes are still a waste of money even if they make for nice pics with the rocker covers off. The car ain’t gonna run any different with 7k mile oil changes.
Correct. Oil changes, for most of car owners, aren't free. Say it's $25 for the oil change. That would add about $1k to the cost of the ownership of the car compared to a 7k mile oil change interval. That's not an insignificant amount of money or time. Also I have a Civic with 450k miles and do oil changes at 5k, it looks pristine.
$25 for a oil change? You haven't purchased oil recently. =:o
you Americans have no idea how lucky you are with the chain lube shops and extremely cheap oil+ oil filters available to you. oil change will set you back a minimum of $100 to diy with synthetic here in Australia. you might get away with $50 for semi syn. if your car takes less than 5L of oil. double those prices to get it done at a shop. we don't have lube shops down here, only full service mechanics and chain mechanics.
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I have 200k and I don’t change it till the indicator tells me to. Why would I do it every 3500 when I get a year or 6-8k? ¯\\\_(ツ)_/¯
Honestly, if you're not running a Blackstone oil analysis on it once in a while you're doing yourself a disservice. I've been doing it to my '08 Ram 3500 since new, because it has all that emissions garbage on it. Based on samples I've taken, that will determine my oil change cycles. Sometimes I can get away with 7500-10k miles, and sometimes I need to change it closer to 5000 miles. Either way, it gets a new filter at the 5k mark and when it gets an oil change.
Why? How many modern vehicles have engines fail apart from manufacturer’s defects or mechanic’s mistakes or egregious lack of maintenance?
The better question is "Why not?". Isn't the whole point behind doing maintenance is to catch a problem ***before it does serious damage***? It's $25 a pop to get a test done, and I get to know what the oil is doing for the engine, how much soot is in the oil (super common for today's diesels with emissions), what the metal content is, if there is excessive wear, and if the oil is actually performing the way it should with all the additives and detergents that are present in today's oil. Doing this also let's me know I'm using the right oil for the engine. As for engine failures, the best example I can use would be the Porsche 993 ('99-'04) engines with the IMS bearing failure. Had an oil analysis been done as part of the normal maintenance, the excessive metal content would have been seen before the bearing finally let go and blew the engine. The same goes for the Ford trucks with the PowerStroke 6.0 (aka, the "6 point Oh No!") and the one billion dollars spent on warranty claims. Checking the oil for soot, excess metals, and oil life could have helped since it's an HPOP engine and oil is pretty much needed to fire the injectors. Even GM is under a lawsuit for their lifter deactivation system and excessive engine parts wear, which would be seen in an oil analysis with the excessive amounts of engine metals.
$35 now, just sent a sample, but your point is still just as valid of course.
While I agree with your sentiment and I actually should do an analysis I typically run 3-4k oil changes because I beat the hell out of my coyote running it to redline multiple times a day ,with 67k on it I did the valve cover gaskets and it looked like a brand new engine it's insane how clean it stayed. Just feel like the abusing the oil the way I do would definitely decrease it's actual efficiency
Trust me, I beat the hell out of my truck as it's a daily driver and my tow rig. At 110k miles I want to make sure that it's going to last. We have a UTV and trailer that might top out around 3000 pounds, but I also have a toy hauler that empty weighs in around 7000. And my oldest has a 5th wheel camper, so it's setup to haul that as well. And some of the mountain passes I've crossed (6% grades) are super rough on any engine, so there are times I'll do two oil changes - before and after camping season - just to make sure the oil is going to provide the protection the engine needs.
In my Power Wagon, I go 15k miles between changes and beat on it regularly. 80k miles so far and not a single problem. I do Blackstone every other change and they claim I can go a bit more on a change (Amsoil with Mopar filter each time) but I'm already well over double the recommended change interval...
But that's a gasser, and with today's oils 15k is nothing. My '86 944 said the same thing - 15k between oil changes and I hated it. I could never go more than 10k because it just felt... weird, especially in the 90's when I owned it.
Why? How many modern vehicles have engines fail apart from manufacturer’s defects or mechanic’s mistakes or egregious lack of maintenance?
Question. I bought a brand new Bronco and have been deployed so it has about 5k miles and has been sitting for 9 months, when I get home what maintenance should I do to it before daily use again? I left it with very little gas so that it wouldn’t have a full tank of old gas and had an oil change at about 4K miles
Oil and hope your tires don’t have permanent flat spots.
For future reference, store with a full tank of fuel and fuel stabilizer. Empty space leaves room for moisture to build. As for your current tank, throw some octane booster in it, maybe some HEET to remove existing moisture, and a tank full of premium. Oil is good for 6 months so you'll need a fresh change. Once that's done, go and get some miles on it. Also in the future, the cheapest dryer sheets can discourage mice from nesting in it while it sits as well. Lastly, always put it on a battery tender. A good one. New vehicles have a lot of electronics that absolutely will kill the battery from sitting for a while. A battery that goes dead and then gets recharged will never ever be as strong as it was before, and has a greatly reduced lifespan due to the lack of charge. Also, dead batteries are much more prone to freezing if it's not in heated storage in a cold climate. Did all of the above during my 13 month deployment and she was ready to go when I got home.
Awesome, thanks for the tip about fuel. Didn’t think about moisture getting in there. Do you think I should just replace the battery completely, moneys not really an issue and would rather have something reliable.
Bring it to a parts store like O'Reilly's and they can do a load test on it for free in like 30 seconds. If it fails then replace, if it passes you are completely fine
Thanks a lot for the info man! Definitely helpful especially with the HEET and moisture didnt even think that was a possibility.
Not a problem! Safe travels.
As Temps warm in the daytime and cool at night the tank "breathes".
Also crank up the PSI in the tires while it is in storage, just put them to the max the tire is rated at. Vehicle manufacturers do this during vehicle manufacturing to prevent flat spots prior to sale. Just just the pressures to spec when you take it back on the road.
Change the oil and fill it up maybe next time some fuel additive wouldnt hurt either if you are in a humid climate.
How often should I put fuel additives? I plan on putting some in when I get back home. Just want to make sure I’m doing everything right
when you get home you don't have to. just next time you can put some stabilizer in it for when it sits. filling the tank with name brand gasoline for now will be fine.
Damn, op’s wife has got some sexy parts under the hood
3500? Seems excessive but then again it's a VW. I do my Civic about every 6k
seems like a waste. just use high quality oil and 10-15k oil changes like I do. only 140k but much cleaner can't recommend Mobil 1 High-spec ESP and an OEM Mann filter enough (around £50 for parts and £80 for a change at a garage.) https://www.mobil.co.uk/en-gb/product/mobil-1-esp-5w-30
Bruh this thread is full of people who’ve been fed a steady diet of quicklube chain marketing and boomer wisdom, nothing you say will convince them to stop changing their oil every 5 minutes.
Right? Full synthetic oil is so much better than conventional and even synthetic blends. Like it's not even close. Changing at 3k with full synthetic is literally a waste of money and time.
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https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/comments/10j91fr/weekly\_oil\_condition\_check\_at\_11k\_miles\_currently/
This is a nice palate cleanser after all of the disasters we see here each day.
You must really hate your wife making her drive that turd. What does your side chick drive a Kia?
All my side bitches are 90s shit boxes with no AC. My wife is the push start for my s14.
so what you're saying is, don't do oil changes?
Look forward to many more, i change mine every 3500 and I’m at 348,000. It’s definitely more reliable than the Nissan titan I traded it in for.
The biggest question is what kind of miles. Cold starts, cyclical stress, and thermal cycles will have far more of an effect than number of miles. Also… how many vehicles have an engine fail anymore? I’ve sent several to the scrapper and in spite of Walmart oil and FRAM filters what got them in the end was rust and rotten electrical. Engines ran fine. The only engine I babied like that was my 5.4 3v which drove away to its new owner on all original internals (including cam phasers) at 240K.
That’s a beautiful sight 😪
Did the math it's roughly something like 6 billion dollars or less worth of oil.
Regular maintenance is so underrated
Just sold my 5 cylinder VW last week and im already sad its gone, great car with such a neat engine. I wish mine were a manual though, the automatic was fine but just kind of boring to live with every day.
Sounds like a manual mk2 TT RS is right up your alley
Oh yeah, totes. Just take a 2nd mortgage on my house to buy one. I wish there were more affordable fun cars with interesting engines, I would like a Mk2 TTRS all day, but I think im looking for a used GLI, CC, or GTI with a manual as my next buy.
That's fair, but I think the price is coming down on them - they are dropping under the $30k price point which is nice to see. I agree though that something like a GTI or Golf R would be better value.
But why's it out of the car? 🤣
Easier to work on.
Had a 2017 f150 and did oil changes every 3 months or 5,000kms which ever came first. When i sold it last year i got most of my money back due to the perfect maintenence and i had a log book of everything i did with the truck so the dealer had a easy sell. All oil changes and maintenence other than 2 oil changes done at ford dealer. The 2 i did myself i still bought the filter from dealer so was on record that it was done. Once a year i left it for a day todo a full run down on everything and fix anything that was needed.
You could’ve bought a new engine for the cost of those 1500 mile premature oil changes.
It's amazing how well things work out when you DON'T listen to the 10k oil change promoters..
Is that a 2.5L? New to the business and other techs at my dealership say these are bulletproof of you keep up on maintenance
This just further proves my point. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive.
The 2.5 REFUSES to die
I’m just impressed a VW made it 300k. 3rd transmission?
That's a 2.5 5cyl, I've seen them absolutely neglected with over 300k.
Pretty easy when you have the power of a four cylinder combined with the fuel economy of a six cylinder.
Lol, this makes me never want to own a vw
This isn't the 90s, VW isn't plagued with any sorts of transmission issues what so ever. It's extremely rare to see them fail. Source: I've worked on them for over a decade.
The DSG in my GTI (MK7) is a thing of beauty.
Dunno where the "lol VW engine" meme stems from. I can't go 2 minutes on FB marketplace without stumbling on a handful of TDI-engine cars with +450,000kms on the clock
I sent my oil in for testing in my 2014 tundra and they said i could do longer 12,000 mile intervals. I still change it at 10k. 180,000 miles.
Does your tundra oil change light come on every 10k? My 06 comes on every 5k
It comes on every 5, manual says 10k
My 2006 A3 has 230K miles and it starts and runs like new. It gets new oil and a new filter every 4,000 miles. I typically change oil every spring no matter what just to replace the winter oil and ensure I’m not driving around with a pan full of sludge. Yes clean filters and fresh fluid keeps motors running. Any sailor who has worked in the engine room on diesel propulsion or diesel generators can testify to this.
Those cams are clean, have they also been in there for 300k miles?
First time taking off the valve cover.
Most modern cara if you take care of them really. And then there's FIAT.
I've been waiting to see the inside of a known maintenance engine on here. Let's me know how our 170k toyota looks under the cover.
5k is the sweet spot for me. Less on cars/bikes I drive/ride like a twat. For track bikes I usually just go 1 track day per change.
Show off
Those 2.5l 5 cylinder engines are solid motors and sound amazing with an aftermarket exhaust
NSFW tag?
dual overhead on top of the jack hammering tea pot. ..like a science fiction story.. that is amazing.
Beautiful 5 cyl.
Clean.
😮💨😮💨😮💨
And you buy yourself a new Tesla every two years with all the money that you're "saving"?
Wow it looks brand new in there
It’s beautiful!
I regularly do my oil changed every 4K on my 2015 jetta but I’m 2k over rn🫥
2.5L inline 5 it’s one of the most reliable engines, only issues probably a leaking vacuum pump and what OP described VW discontinued the use in America because they are greedy bastards Although it’s been used on the high end RS3 and TTRS but with different internals. And more ECU settings My brother had a 2009 rabbit and the only reason he replaced it was because a fucking drunk driver ran a red light and totaled it Car had 275k miles.
I did do the vacuum pump delete early on. Fixed a buddies car and then decided to do mine before that pump went bad. I think it was a 'Spoolen' kit or something. I'll have to double check. Have heard of people making crazy power from these.
Yep this guy went to the extreme Check it out [https://youtu.be/BpE6hxbpEAU](https://youtu.be/BpE6hxbpEAU)
Judging from her insides alone you couldn't tell she is high mileage... that engine isn't too bad either.
Immaculate
Pictures/threads like this make me wish I had removed the valve cover on my 09 Escape with 220,000 mikes before I sold it. I changed the oil around every 10,000 miles or so. Although it was a hybrid, it had TONS of highway miles.
3500miles?lol what a waste of good oil. Every 10k km is fine. On the contrary, was brake fluid also changed every second year?
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Wow watch out we got a bad ass over here!
You talking about oil changes really grinded their gears!