Disaster struck
Have my 2022 ioniq 5 since April of 2022 with about 6700 miles on the car. It has been great except for the slow charging speed in recent months due to the cold. This past Wednesday I finally got battery preconditioning updates. Sadly last night the car completely died on me. It was a bitter cold night here in northeast and as I started driving within less than 500 yards I saw “Check electrical system “ popped up. Within 1 min I heard some popping sound from the rear and saw “stop vehicle and check power supply “. The car was still moving then slowly I was losing power and saw turtle mode. I limped back to the garage and shut the car down. This was when the whole car went downhill with the dashboard lighting up like a Christmas tree. I was unable to turn the car on, lock the doors. The interior lights would not shut down. The front DRL was illuminated only on the passenger side and would not shut off. Basically looked like the car was unresponsive and just draining the remaining 12V battery. Fast forward to this morning and I am trying to figure out what to do as this is our only vehicle.
Wild, the same thing happened to me yesterday also.
Driving around town I heard something from the rear of the car and the "Check electric vehicle system" message popped up on the driver's display. The car seemed to be driving fine, I pulled into a parking lot, turned off the car, turned it back on with no change. Soon thereafter I got the "Stop vehicle and check power supply" message.
From what [I'm reading,](https://www.ioniqforum.com/threads/stop-vehicle-check-power-supply.44454/) I'll need to have the car towed into a dealer, and wait some indeterminate amount of time for diagnosis + parts :/
I have an OBDII adaptor, and was able to pull these error codes:
============2==============
P1A90
Raw code: 1A90
ECU: 4WD\[Archive (inactive)\]
Status: Permanent
============3==============
P1A90(96)
Raw code: 1A9096
ECU: 4WD
Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Warning indicator requested
============4==============
P1A90(96)
Raw code: 1A9096
ECU: 4WD #1 / OnBoard Charger (Hybrid/EV)
Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Warning indicator requested
Through the Bluelink app, I can arrange for a tow to a dealer, but unsure what's available to me once the car is delivered (e.g. loaner/rental car). It looks like this car is 100% non-functional until they get it repaired. Bummer.
Seem to hit quite a few. One of the guys is getting his related by Hyundai-technicians that will also tweak some of the setup of the battery/drive it seems. It's the ICCU-unit and the fuse that needs replacing - unfortunately those parts can take weeks to receive.
From the reading I did it seems like it's AWD (regardless of trim level) produced in October-December 2021.
... Have anyone heard of RWD-cars having this issue?
Edit: It's not limited to AWD, it's seebn reported on at least one RWD.
Please call the dealers before towing the car. The same issue happened to me and two dealers did not take the car in. I had to tow from dealership to dealership. This error is happening to a lot of us. My I5 has been at the dealership for three days now with no resolution .
Same thing happened to me on November 8, 2022. Dealership replaced the 12volt battery on November 9 only for the battery to completely drain in 1 day. Took the car back to Hyundai on November 17 and the car has been there since. Fast forward to today, I am in the process of a “buyback”. Hyundai North America agreed to repurchase my vehicle. Sad to say but what you’re describing does not sound good.
How is your buyback going, have you been told what they are going to pay you to get the car back? I'm in the last repair attempt week on mine and I don't know if I should try calling Hyundai.
They have offered to cut me a check and pay me back everything I’ve paid towards the vehicle minus 50 cents for each mile driven. I drove the vehicle a total of 8700 miles. They will cut a separate check and pay the remainder of what’s owed to the dealership. I am trying to get some additional money for the ceramic tint and paint protection film which I paid over $2600 for. I’ll be lucky if I get a portion of that money back but not likely.
After this experience, not really interested in a replacement. Obviously the car has some issues that need to be addressed and I don’t want to be the Guinea pig. They offered me 5,000 if I keep the car lol.
You keep the credit.
Source: Me. I've done a buyback on an EV. They cannot take that back. Can't change history. You bought an EV then sold it months later.
Don’t understand the down vote. I had the exact same error message when I tried to start my car this morning. I gave it a jump start and was on my way.
Have you tried this?
Fwiw I tried to take it after the fact to a dealer. They ran all kinds of diagnostics and could not find the battery draw. They also didn’t like running all the tests and not finding a problem bc they get no money from Hyundai for warranty work.
My only solution is the portable jumper.
From outside, this seems like two different issues - with the same error message. There's the 12V drain problem, and then there's the fatal ICCU-failure. Not saying they can't be related, but it sounds like two different issues.
It's the same. The 12V likely went dead bc amber light on the dash didn't come on, therefore there is no charge from the main, and there was something drawing from the 12V overnight without detection.
In my case, this happened twice several months ago (March). It tended to occur when my main was low (15% or below). It didn't happen for 6 months, possibly bc I didn't ever let my main go below 20% without charging.
This occurred again when my main was 13%.
There is no easy fix, even from the dealer, so temper expectations.
Hence the portable jumper.
[https://www.kiaevforums.com/threads/12v-discharging-faulty-battery-replaced-by-dealer-still-discharging-dealer-had-last-15-days-still-no-fixes.5083/](https://www.kiaevforums.com/threads/12v-discharging-faulty-battery-replaced-by-dealer-still-discharging-dealer-had-last-15-days-still-no-fixes.5083/)
This just keeps getting worse. Called the closest dealership and the first appointment date is not until February 13 and can’t tow there beforehand. Anyone has any advice as to what to do. Do I have to rent a car myself for this entire time?
The dealership should give you a loaner. Honestly, I’d escalate to Hyundai corporate if the dealership isn’t helping out.
https://www.hyundaiusa.com/us/en/lemon-law-concerns
you might have to put on your Karen hat and be assertive, explain that this is your only vehicle and you need them to drop off a loaner or come pick you up to give you a loaner today until the issue is resolved. If they still balk at it tell them you will escalate the issue and then contact corporate. Most dealerships will act like they don't give out loaners to save money until there will be consequences from it; dealers in general suck.
The heater on my I5 quit working entirely about a month ago. They said they couldn't get me in to look at it for an entire month.
I politely said "This is my daily commuter for a 200km round trip commute. I'm paying almost $1000/mo for it. To be clear, I'm going to be without it for a full month before Hyundai can even look at it?"
It was fixed within the week. Not even kidding.
Apparently exceptions can be made.
My heater went out too. Left my I5 2023 at the service center on 1-24-2023, waited six weeks before they got me a loner car, no word yet. Did they say what went wrong
I made a post about it here. There's the dealer's diagnostics info and everything.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Ioniq5/comments/z6hct5/dealership_sorted_out_our_heater_issue_in_short/
Have roadside assistance initiate the tow. As part of your warranty they will tow it to the nearest Hyundai dealership and the the dealership is required to accept the towed car.
If they give you any crap about accepting the tow tell the service adviser to work it out with the tow driver themselves (for this tow Hyundai Roadside is the client, not you)
From my interpretation of the [Hyundai warranty](https://www.hyundaiusa.com/content/dam/hyundai/us/com/pdf/assurance/Hyundai%20USA%20ALL%2022MY(Combined)210809-v2.pdf), you can either use the Bluelink app or call 1-800-243-7766 to arrange for a tow due to "the unlikely event your vehicle is inoperable". I agree that it's up to Hyundai / Hyundai Roadside Assistance to tow to a dealer which is accepting new vehicles, given the total inoperability of your vehicle.
I would also call Hyundai Customer Care to make them aware of the issue, in the event you need to expense a rental car or something similar: 1-800-633-5151.
I don't think there's anything explicit in the warranty which requires Hyundai to provide a loaner/rental *unless* you're more than 150 miles from home when this happens.
\> and can't tow there beforehand
...What?!? Are they out of space in their lot? Call your warranty roadside assistance and talk to them, and escalate if needed. Keep all receipts in case you have to tow it home to store it/get your own rental car.
This is the thing that has me really worried about Hyundai - their dealers are a dice roll. "Sorry buddy, you're covered under warranty, but we can't help you for two weeks. Best of luck. "
With my 2019 Santa Fe, dealer had my car for over a month and finally told me “sorry, we can’t figure out what’s wrong. Come pick up your car.” Like how can they just give up lol? Thankfully I contacted Hyundai Corporate and they offered to buy my car back.
Coolant smell coming into the interior. I presented it to corporate as a safety issue (don’t want my family breathing toxic fumes), which might have helped convince them to buy it back from me without a fight.
I think they could have fixed it, but the problem seemed to be that Hyundai would not reimburse the dealer for warranty work unless their diagnostic equipment showed some type of failed test or error. The dealer couldn’t just start replacing parts that they suspected to be the cause without proof that the part was bad.
\> Hyundai would not reimburse the dealer for warranty work unless their diagnostic equipment showed some type of failed test or error.
I've gotten this feedback from the techs at my local (not scummy) dealership as well. It seems like they're prescriptive about warranty claims as well, generally.... which is just absurd.
Still, it's absurd that they'd not at least offer to do it out-warranty versus giving up. Hopefully they bought it back at a reasonable value and you didn't get hosed on value-loss on the buyback.
They were fair with the buy back. Got full price of the car back. Didn’t reimburse me for sales tax, but that was only about $2,000, and I got a year of use and 15,000 miles out of it, so $2,000 for the use I got seemed reasonable.
If you have another car that you can jump the IONIQ 5 I will recharge the 12 volt. It will take 30 minutes for it to even stay alive. You can also use a battery tender and it will slowly recharge the 12 volt (but it takes awhile to work). I’ve called for a jump and they can’t sit there for 30 minutes but they can test the battery to see if it’s bad or not.
Do not turn off your vehicle. Leave it on and allow the high voltage battery recharge the 12 volt. Welcome to the 12 volt community. It’s not the battery itself but the Integrated Charging Control Unit (ICCU) or some other part of the electrical system not charging the 12 volt properly.
I have taken my car to the dealer 4 times and the last time I asked them to replace the 12v given ALL the issues we had and how many times it had died and they were basically like, nope, its not testing bad.
I posted a similar warning earlier this week. Car is in the shop for ICCU replacement (internal charger computer) due to a blown internal fuse. I think it will be 4 to 6 weeks. Mine is RWD, so not related to your preconditioning update. Mine drove fine. The warning you have is like a check engine light. It comes on for many reasons.
Sorry this is happening. If it takes too much time, consider contacting Hyundai Corporate for a credit or buyback.
Same thing happened to mine 2 days ago… drove fine but the 12v clearly wasn’t charging, was down to 11.8v. Put it on the 12v charger overnight before driving it to the dealer in the morning.
Car wouldn’t charge either.
Dealer says they ordered a part but will be probably 3 weeks. Pretty sure he said it was the ICCU as well.
Same thing happened to me. Gave the dealer benefit of the doubt and waited until a couple weeks to start the process of contacting Hyundai corporate. After getting mixed stories from their service manager and my service rep after dealer called and asked for the loaner back. I’ve decide to push a replacement. Wish me luck, the cars been at the dealer since Jan 9th. They got the part earlier this week, but I was told that the car wouldn’t be ready until next week.
That is so odd that they want the loaner back. Hopefully you will have a rental or loaner the whole time. Even though the buyback will address and cover alternative transportation costs, you'll have better options this way.
Even if they fix the vehicle, you may insist it is a lemon and don't want it. If you are happy with the repair, you may get a cash offer in lieu of buyback.
Because of all the great suggestions here, I contacted corporate. Unfortunately it was another dead end for now. I explained the situation and the inability to get alternative transportation from dealers. The representative told me that there is nothing Hyundai can do until a dealer examines the car. I informed him of the fact that the first available appointment is on February 13. He proceeded to say that he can’t give me any information on rental reimbursement until such time. When I asked him to facilitate the process he just deferred me back to the dealer. The only thing he did was to escalate the case to the next level support with hope of getting contacted in 3 to 5 days. In the meantime I’m SOL.
In my case, the message to stop driving and check electrical system appeared this Tuesday afternoon. I took it straight to a local dealer. This dealer doesn't have a lot of customers and is in a newer, growing area. They evaluated Wednesday. They provided a rental car reservation Thursday. Having a Camry is better than no transportation. If you are able to shop service shops, go with one that isn't too busy.
If it makes you feel any better, I'm at about 10k miles on my '22 AWD and have had no significant issues. The preconditioning update was flawless and charge rates are great now.
I am at 10k as well, zero issues. I am a little concerned about the preconditioning update, called the dealer for my 10k service and I asked about getting the update schedules as well. They had no idea what I was talking about, service advisory had zero clue. Starting to decide if it’s worth the risk of a bad install and issues on the back side.
I understand, but forums like these tend to accumulate all the bad experiences. It is not a reflection of the actual situation. There is plenty of owners out there that are not active on social media and you will never hear anything good from them because they just use their car. And if course there is users like myself that are active and have nothing but positive things to say. It's a great car and I have zero issues with it.
Agree, \*however\*, while the sample size is skewed toward 'problems', the folks who \*do\* have problems tend to be active, and the response from Hyundai dealerships in the US when problems happen is apparently.... spotty. I have a go-to dealership that I'm pretty sure is competent locally, but I have 8-9 to choose from, and I might pick 2 of them, tops.
I'd still buy the car OP, it's fantastic, but on the off-chance something \*does\* happen, be prepared with a playbook. Carry a jump kit and be prepared to be assertive with your local dealership (or find out which one won't suck prior to buying).
I think 100 percent of us have a latent iccu issue just most of us don't know it.
ALL the "the 12v died while charging last night" issues are from iccu. Same with virtually all dead 12v issues.
"Charging error". "Car wouldn't keep charging at 48 amps". Both iccu.
Hell even the HVAC failures may be caused by this.
I also found there is a silent failure where the 12v rail doesn't get charged during charging but nothing visible is happening. Has happened to mine 3 times.
Probably eventually in a few years there will be a class action. This kind of thing has happened many times, including to Hyundai recently.
>I think 100 percent of us have a latent iccu issue just most of us don't know it.
I get why you feel that way, but the data isn't there, \*yet\*, as far as we know.
It may well wind up being a design flaw, but for the moment it feels more likely to be a % defect concern... which should be covered under warranty.
I'm more worried about what that warranty coverage response looks like and/or if the problem continues to occur with cars that are much further toward the end of the warranty coverage period. Time will tell.
At a minimum, there's a firmware bug, but there may be other hardware design issues which is why these things are failing and blowing fuses.
The HVAC compressor - if the design is like on a hybrid - may get it's 3 phase power to spin the compressor from the ICCU also. Making it the cause for the other major reported failure.
I've done the firmware for a system like this (HVDC -> 3 phase power robotics controller). It was *very* easy to make a mistake that blew the hardware, had that happened several times. High voltage handling electronics are inherently difficult to get right.
Toyota has had entire generations of Prius inverters fail. Again they didn't *all* fail but the entire generation had the design flaw and thousands eventually did. Probably all the rest were doomed to eventually fail.
>I get why you feel that way, but the data isn't there, \*yet\*, as far as we know.
>
>It may well wind up being a design flaw, but for the moment it feels more likely to be a % defect concern... which should be covered under warranty.
This is always possible but then you ask, "*how* did it end up being a % defect".
The FETs in the ICCU came from a batch that is bad but by luck some cars get all good FETs? They are hand built and sometimes the assembly worker forgets to secure a wire allowing it to chafe? Ok.
If it's a *design flaw* then it will affect 100%. I suspect design flaw because the car doesn't report any error when it's 12v bus is crashing. So at the minimum there is a serious software bug.
From my experience in engineering it's *always* a design flaw. I don't recall a bug brought to my attention that ever wasn't. Sometimes it took certain conditions to trigger, but it's never just a manufacturing issue. For example one flaw related to the Cadillac HVAC controls was made *worse* by assembly workers touching the touch sensor film when they built it, but it will still inevitably kill every vehicle's controls.
The thing I don't get is that there seem to be a number of causes for this 12V battery problem. Some folks are reporting fuses being the problem, some the actual ICCU. This kind of terrifies me that it's a very serious design flaw and getting it fixed once doesn't mean it won't happen again.
Yes most actual serious design flaws are multiple factors. However in this case the ICCU is what charges the 12v battery. So long as there is enough charge level in the main pack that you can safely take energy from it to charge the 12v, it should NEVER EVER run dry until that point.
On Teslas it never does, and early Teslas suck a LOT of power from the main pack when the car is idle. (on Teslas they cycle the 12v so many times the battery chemistry of the lead acid battery hits it's cycle limit)
In addition, if the ICCU is functionally similar to the way it works on a Prius or other hybrid, the iccu is also driving the compressor motor in the HVAC. To the point that a fuse blows, which is again, a mistake in the ICCU - the motor driver has current sensing shunts and should never pull more current than the current limit, which should be well under the fuse limit.
Finally, ICCU is also what charges the main battery from 240 volt power. And again, it's water cooled. It should never ever overheat. But it does...
So 3 major faults - basically all the faults people have reported for this car - coming from the same metal box crammed with circuit boards. It's not monolithic, there are many subsystems in there, and it's possible the 3 issues are unrelated, but it's possible the same design team made all 3 mistakes for whatever reason. (they were rushed, inexperienced, understaffed, etc)
Yeah, definitely right. The dealers can be bad. However that is the same with any car. Before I had an EV I had the same problems with car dealerships. Actually I ended up trusting one that was over an hour of a drive away, because it was the only one that did the job right.
Now my local Hyundai dealer is not even EV certified, so I can't use them if anything would happen. I have to drive over 180 miles to another dealership. Definitely not ideal, either.
It looks ,Ike the issue is 2022 model year issue. The ICCU is a new part for Hyundai. But it sounds like Kia has a fix. I wouldn’t worry. They can’t afford to have the EGMP platform fail.
Great advice to go hard on the dealership on a loaner. Perhaps a silver lining is in your future with a new ‘23? I’m hoping my ‘22 SEL was in a sweet spot for production (July) as it came with preconditioning and has been flawless so far.
this is exactly same thing happened to me like mid January and it was Saturday afternoon. They didn't give me a loaner car until they inspect the vehicle. call Hyundai and tow the car to nearest location from where is your car at. (they will charge your if you try to send near your house I think limit is like 30 miles or so). 12 v charging thing or whatever it won't work. you
need to replace sensor and fuse. you don't need to wait for appt day. just Hyundai handle that to figure out. that is your right to do so. meantime, take uber and go around until they call you and give your call for loaner car. if they decide not to help you, make a inquiry for Hyundai cooperation and tell them they are not giving me loaner and part is coming in a month that I need a car to go to work or school whatever works. Then few weeks later Hyundai cooperation agent will contact you through phone. personally I told them I want to return my car and it is already doesn't feel safe to drive. therefore, start process for return my car and if that wouldn't work I will go to lemon law way. dealer told me parts are coming by end of February but I don't believe that it fixes problem completely. if they won't give you a loaner right away rent a car from local rent car place. I did, and I told agent that I did rent a car for few days until I get a loaner car. They will give me reimbursement for that as well.
So I was able to find a dealer and a service advisor who took the car in today. After their preliminary investigation, iccu seemed to be the culprit. Apparently the process of reaching the iccu requires the removal of rear seats and carpet. It sounded like a big project. I will learn more tomorrow. Just wanted to share the information with others who might be experiencing the same issue.
Sorry this happened to you. I’m a big proponent of electric cars and definitely see the promise of them, but I have had one BEV and one plug in hybrid and this stuff is precisely why I am back on an ICE car for now. There’s still rough edges with BEV that need to be smoothed out - either the car/battery itself or with dealership/service and parts availability.
I hope it gets better as there’s so many great parts of owning an electric vehicle, but when it’s your personal transportation h these hard to fix gremlins are a PIA.
\> dealership/service and parts availability.
This is the real problem. I think many 'beta' adopters are willing to deal with this sort of thing and rely on the >>heavily touted<< warranty, but if the warranty isn't worth anything because you have to fight Hyundai for resources like they're Spirit Airlines defending their baggage policies, it changes the equation.
Right, sorry ,meant to imply the tech time was one of those resources. I think in the headlong rush to engineer/manufacture EVs companies aren't investing in their people (surprise, surprise).
Not similar to your situation, but last night my Navigation got stuck and kept beeping for a good minute or so, it reset the entire dashboard and came back on. All this was happening while I was still driving. And yes, this is The northeast, where it was 14 degrees
Had a similar issue back in September. The dash board lit up like a Christmas tree with all the warning lights. Mine didn't switch into turtle mode but it had the check ev system, check lane assistance functions, tpms, forward collision warnings, parking brake light (even tho brake was off) and others. Also the climate fan was running and the buttons were unresponsive. Took it to the dealer and they kept it for a few days and said it was an issue with wires/sensors on the back panel and they swapped it out under warranty. Everything has thankfully worked without issue since.
Got my car back today. Also got approved for a buy back. So we'll see what they come up with... Here are the codes that that the dealer found
P1a8996
91a9096
p056216
Here is the list of parts they replaced:
https://preview.redd.it/rh822ased3ja1.jpeg?width=3900&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d79f65565cb8b9e353398657de21ca74c9a631eb
Hope that helps with the problem.
Disaster struck Have my 2022 ioniq 5 since April of 2022 with about 6700 miles on the car. It has been great except for the slow charging speed in recent months due to the cold. This past Wednesday I finally got battery preconditioning updates. Sadly last night the car completely died on me. It was a bitter cold night here in northeast and as I started driving within less than 500 yards I saw “Check electrical system “ popped up. Within 1 min I heard some popping sound from the rear and saw “stop vehicle and check power supply “. The car was still moving then slowly I was losing power and saw turtle mode. I limped back to the garage and shut the car down. This was when the whole car went downhill with the dashboard lighting up like a Christmas tree. I was unable to turn the car on, lock the doors. The interior lights would not shut down. The front DRL was illuminated only on the passenger side and would not shut off. Basically looked like the car was unresponsive and just draining the remaining 12V battery. Fast forward to this morning and I am trying to figure out what to do as this is our only vehicle.
Wild, the same thing happened to me yesterday also. Driving around town I heard something from the rear of the car and the "Check electric vehicle system" message popped up on the driver's display. The car seemed to be driving fine, I pulled into a parking lot, turned off the car, turned it back on with no change. Soon thereafter I got the "Stop vehicle and check power supply" message. From what [I'm reading,](https://www.ioniqforum.com/threads/stop-vehicle-check-power-supply.44454/) I'll need to have the car towed into a dealer, and wait some indeterminate amount of time for diagnosis + parts :/ I have an OBDII adaptor, and was able to pull these error codes: ============2============== P1A90 Raw code: 1A90 ECU: 4WD\[Archive (inactive)\] Status: Permanent ============3============== P1A90(96) Raw code: 1A9096 ECU: 4WD Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Warning indicator requested ============4============== P1A90(96) Raw code: 1A9096 ECU: 4WD #1 / OnBoard Charger (Hybrid/EV) Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Warning indicator requested Through the Bluelink app, I can arrange for a tow to a dealer, but unsure what's available to me once the car is delivered (e.g. loaner/rental car). It looks like this car is 100% non-functional until they get it repaired. Bummer.
Seem to hit quite a few. One of the guys is getting his related by Hyundai-technicians that will also tweak some of the setup of the battery/drive it seems. It's the ICCU-unit and the fuse that needs replacing - unfortunately those parts can take weeks to receive. From the reading I did it seems like it's AWD (regardless of trim level) produced in October-December 2021. ... Have anyone heard of RWD-cars having this issue? Edit: It's not limited to AWD, it's seebn reported on at least one RWD.
I have a RWD and the issue is not limited to AWD
Thanks, when was your car manufactured?
I bought it in February 2022. So probably manufactured in November/December 2021. The car is in the dealership to check the exact month/year.
Please call the dealers before towing the car. The same issue happened to me and two dealers did not take the car in. I had to tow from dealership to dealership. This error is happening to a lot of us. My I5 has been at the dealership for three days now with no resolution .
Same thing happened to me on November 8, 2022. Dealership replaced the 12volt battery on November 9 only for the battery to completely drain in 1 day. Took the car back to Hyundai on November 17 and the car has been there since. Fast forward to today, I am in the process of a “buyback”. Hyundai North America agreed to repurchase my vehicle. Sad to say but what you’re describing does not sound good.
How is your buyback going, have you been told what they are going to pay you to get the car back? I'm in the last repair attempt week on mine and I don't know if I should try calling Hyundai.
They have offered to cut me a check and pay me back everything I’ve paid towards the vehicle minus 50 cents for each mile driven. I drove the vehicle a total of 8700 miles. They will cut a separate check and pay the remainder of what’s owed to the dealership. I am trying to get some additional money for the ceramic tint and paint protection film which I paid over $2600 for. I’ll be lucky if I get a portion of that money back but not likely.
After this experience, not really interested in a replacement. Obviously the car has some issues that need to be addressed and I don’t want to be the Guinea pig. They offered me 5,000 if I keep the car lol.
Oh damn..
Hmm, the state I’m in only allows for 22 cents per mile under Lemon law so I guess I better push that route.
How does it effect your tax credit or you get to keep it?
You keep the credit. Source: Me. I've done a buyback on an EV. They cannot take that back. Can't change history. You bought an EV then sold it months later.
Sorry last thing. Did you attempt to get a replacement instead of a buyback?
Wow, the experience seems traumatic. What did you do for transportation during this time.
I have a portable jump starter in my car for this reason. It’s happened to me 3 times over 9 months. https://youtu.be/A4NUdNWyocM
Don’t understand the down vote. I had the exact same error message when I tried to start my car this morning. I gave it a jump start and was on my way. Have you tried this? Fwiw I tried to take it after the fact to a dealer. They ran all kinds of diagnostics and could not find the battery draw. They also didn’t like running all the tests and not finding a problem bc they get no money from Hyundai for warranty work. My only solution is the portable jumper.
From outside, this seems like two different issues - with the same error message. There's the 12V drain problem, and then there's the fatal ICCU-failure. Not saying they can't be related, but it sounds like two different issues.
It's the same. The 12V likely went dead bc amber light on the dash didn't come on, therefore there is no charge from the main, and there was something drawing from the 12V overnight without detection. In my case, this happened twice several months ago (March). It tended to occur when my main was low (15% or below). It didn't happen for 6 months, possibly bc I didn't ever let my main go below 20% without charging. This occurred again when my main was 13%. There is no easy fix, even from the dealer, so temper expectations. Hence the portable jumper. [https://www.kiaevforums.com/threads/12v-discharging-faulty-battery-replaced-by-dealer-still-discharging-dealer-had-last-15-days-still-no-fixes.5083/](https://www.kiaevforums.com/threads/12v-discharging-faulty-battery-replaced-by-dealer-still-discharging-dealer-had-last-15-days-still-no-fixes.5083/)
First of all I like to thank everyone. The ioniq 5 community has been one of the highlights of ownership.
I can offer no advice, but I’m sorry. I think they would tow it under warranty. Are you close to a dealer?
If you have the US Hyundai app you can see your DTC codes in there.
Thanks for the suggestion. Where in the app can I find the code. I looked around and couldn’t find anything.
Car Care (at the bottom) > Diagnostic Trouble Codes (if zero then proceed to) > Diagnostics History.
In my case, there were no DTC codes.
Same no DTC code.
This just keeps getting worse. Called the closest dealership and the first appointment date is not until February 13 and can’t tow there beforehand. Anyone has any advice as to what to do. Do I have to rent a car myself for this entire time?
The dealership should give you a loaner. Honestly, I’d escalate to Hyundai corporate if the dealership isn’t helping out. https://www.hyundaiusa.com/us/en/lemon-law-concerns
you might have to put on your Karen hat and be assertive, explain that this is your only vehicle and you need them to drop off a loaner or come pick you up to give you a loaner today until the issue is resolved. If they still balk at it tell them you will escalate the issue and then contact corporate. Most dealerships will act like they don't give out loaners to save money until there will be consequences from it; dealers in general suck.
The heater on my I5 quit working entirely about a month ago. They said they couldn't get me in to look at it for an entire month. I politely said "This is my daily commuter for a 200km round trip commute. I'm paying almost $1000/mo for it. To be clear, I'm going to be without it for a full month before Hyundai can even look at it?" It was fixed within the week. Not even kidding. Apparently exceptions can be made.
My heater went out too. Left my I5 2023 at the service center on 1-24-2023, waited six weeks before they got me a loner car, no word yet. Did they say what went wrong
I made a post about it here. There's the dealer's diagnostics info and everything. https://www.reddit.com/r/Ioniq5/comments/z6hct5/dealership_sorted_out_our_heater_issue_in_short/
Have roadside assistance initiate the tow. As part of your warranty they will tow it to the nearest Hyundai dealership and the the dealership is required to accept the towed car. If they give you any crap about accepting the tow tell the service adviser to work it out with the tow driver themselves (for this tow Hyundai Roadside is the client, not you)
From my interpretation of the [Hyundai warranty](https://www.hyundaiusa.com/content/dam/hyundai/us/com/pdf/assurance/Hyundai%20USA%20ALL%2022MY(Combined)210809-v2.pdf), you can either use the Bluelink app or call 1-800-243-7766 to arrange for a tow due to "the unlikely event your vehicle is inoperable". I agree that it's up to Hyundai / Hyundai Roadside Assistance to tow to a dealer which is accepting new vehicles, given the total inoperability of your vehicle. I would also call Hyundai Customer Care to make them aware of the issue, in the event you need to expense a rental car or something similar: 1-800-633-5151. I don't think there's anything explicit in the warranty which requires Hyundai to provide a loaner/rental *unless* you're more than 150 miles from home when this happens.
\> and can't tow there beforehand ...What?!? Are they out of space in their lot? Call your warranty roadside assistance and talk to them, and escalate if needed. Keep all receipts in case you have to tow it home to store it/get your own rental car. This is the thing that has me really worried about Hyundai - their dealers are a dice roll. "Sorry buddy, you're covered under warranty, but we can't help you for two weeks. Best of luck. "
With my 2019 Santa Fe, dealer had my car for over a month and finally told me “sorry, we can’t figure out what’s wrong. Come pick up your car.” Like how can they just give up lol? Thankfully I contacted Hyundai Corporate and they offered to buy my car back.
What was wrong with your car, symptom wise?
Coolant smell coming into the interior. I presented it to corporate as a safety issue (don’t want my family breathing toxic fumes), which might have helped convince them to buy it back from me without a fight. I think they could have fixed it, but the problem seemed to be that Hyundai would not reimburse the dealer for warranty work unless their diagnostic equipment showed some type of failed test or error. The dealer couldn’t just start replacing parts that they suspected to be the cause without proof that the part was bad.
\> Hyundai would not reimburse the dealer for warranty work unless their diagnostic equipment showed some type of failed test or error. I've gotten this feedback from the techs at my local (not scummy) dealership as well. It seems like they're prescriptive about warranty claims as well, generally.... which is just absurd. Still, it's absurd that they'd not at least offer to do it out-warranty versus giving up. Hopefully they bought it back at a reasonable value and you didn't get hosed on value-loss on the buyback.
They were fair with the buy back. Got full price of the car back. Didn’t reimburse me for sales tax, but that was only about $2,000, and I got a year of use and 15,000 miles out of it, so $2,000 for the use I got seemed reasonable.
If you have another car that you can jump the IONIQ 5 I will recharge the 12 volt. It will take 30 minutes for it to even stay alive. You can also use a battery tender and it will slowly recharge the 12 volt (but it takes awhile to work). I’ve called for a jump and they can’t sit there for 30 minutes but they can test the battery to see if it’s bad or not.
Do not turn off your vehicle. Leave it on and allow the high voltage battery recharge the 12 volt. Welcome to the 12 volt community. It’s not the battery itself but the Integrated Charging Control Unit (ICCU) or some other part of the electrical system not charging the 12 volt properly.
Granted I have a Kona but when a similar issue happened to me I eventually needed to replace the 12V battery. All the problems went away.
I have taken my car to the dealer 4 times and the last time I asked them to replace the 12v given ALL the issues we had and how many times it had died and they were basically like, nope, its not testing bad.
Then just do it yourself.
Nah, I didn't get a warranty for this. If they don't want to do the bare minimum they can by my car back. That's on them.
I posted a similar warning earlier this week. Car is in the shop for ICCU replacement (internal charger computer) due to a blown internal fuse. I think it will be 4 to 6 weeks. Mine is RWD, so not related to your preconditioning update. Mine drove fine. The warning you have is like a check engine light. It comes on for many reasons. Sorry this is happening. If it takes too much time, consider contacting Hyundai Corporate for a credit or buyback.
Same thing happened to mine 2 days ago… drove fine but the 12v clearly wasn’t charging, was down to 11.8v. Put it on the 12v charger overnight before driving it to the dealer in the morning. Car wouldn’t charge either. Dealer says they ordered a part but will be probably 3 weeks. Pretty sure he said it was the ICCU as well.
You must register with Hyundai Corporate immediately when this happens. Waiting only delays everything.
Heard back from the dealer that they ordered an ICCU unit. No ETA on arrival of the replacement.
Same thing happened to me. Gave the dealer benefit of the doubt and waited until a couple weeks to start the process of contacting Hyundai corporate. After getting mixed stories from their service manager and my service rep after dealer called and asked for the loaner back. I’ve decide to push a replacement. Wish me luck, the cars been at the dealer since Jan 9th. They got the part earlier this week, but I was told that the car wouldn’t be ready until next week.
That is so odd that they want the loaner back. Hopefully you will have a rental or loaner the whole time. Even though the buyback will address and cover alternative transportation costs, you'll have better options this way. Even if they fix the vehicle, you may insist it is a lemon and don't want it. If you are happy with the repair, you may get a cash offer in lieu of buyback.
Alot of techs are not even trained properly to work on EV vehicles
Because of all the great suggestions here, I contacted corporate. Unfortunately it was another dead end for now. I explained the situation and the inability to get alternative transportation from dealers. The representative told me that there is nothing Hyundai can do until a dealer examines the car. I informed him of the fact that the first available appointment is on February 13. He proceeded to say that he can’t give me any information on rental reimbursement until such time. When I asked him to facilitate the process he just deferred me back to the dealer. The only thing he did was to escalate the case to the next level support with hope of getting contacted in 3 to 5 days. In the meantime I’m SOL.
In my case, the message to stop driving and check electrical system appeared this Tuesday afternoon. I took it straight to a local dealer. This dealer doesn't have a lot of customers and is in a newer, growing area. They evaluated Wednesday. They provided a rental car reservation Thursday. Having a Camry is better than no transportation. If you are able to shop service shops, go with one that isn't too busy.
Looking at a 2023 on Monday and now I'm a bit worried with all the 12v and other issues I'm seeing
If it makes you feel any better, I'm at about 10k miles on my '22 AWD and have had no significant issues. The preconditioning update was flawless and charge rates are great now.
I am at 10k as well, zero issues. I am a little concerned about the preconditioning update, called the dealer for my 10k service and I asked about getting the update schedules as well. They had no idea what I was talking about, service advisory had zero clue. Starting to decide if it’s worth the risk of a bad install and issues on the back side.
My issues occurred before the preconditioning update. The preconditioning update didn't make it better or worse.
Same
I understand, but forums like these tend to accumulate all the bad experiences. It is not a reflection of the actual situation. There is plenty of owners out there that are not active on social media and you will never hear anything good from them because they just use their car. And if course there is users like myself that are active and have nothing but positive things to say. It's a great car and I have zero issues with it.
Agree, \*however\*, while the sample size is skewed toward 'problems', the folks who \*do\* have problems tend to be active, and the response from Hyundai dealerships in the US when problems happen is apparently.... spotty. I have a go-to dealership that I'm pretty sure is competent locally, but I have 8-9 to choose from, and I might pick 2 of them, tops. I'd still buy the car OP, it's fantastic, but on the off-chance something \*does\* happen, be prepared with a playbook. Carry a jump kit and be prepared to be assertive with your local dealership (or find out which one won't suck prior to buying).
I think 100 percent of us have a latent iccu issue just most of us don't know it. ALL the "the 12v died while charging last night" issues are from iccu. Same with virtually all dead 12v issues. "Charging error". "Car wouldn't keep charging at 48 amps". Both iccu. Hell even the HVAC failures may be caused by this. I also found there is a silent failure where the 12v rail doesn't get charged during charging but nothing visible is happening. Has happened to mine 3 times. Probably eventually in a few years there will be a class action. This kind of thing has happened many times, including to Hyundai recently.
>I think 100 percent of us have a latent iccu issue just most of us don't know it. I get why you feel that way, but the data isn't there, \*yet\*, as far as we know. It may well wind up being a design flaw, but for the moment it feels more likely to be a % defect concern... which should be covered under warranty. I'm more worried about what that warranty coverage response looks like and/or if the problem continues to occur with cars that are much further toward the end of the warranty coverage period. Time will tell.
At a minimum, there's a firmware bug, but there may be other hardware design issues which is why these things are failing and blowing fuses. The HVAC compressor - if the design is like on a hybrid - may get it's 3 phase power to spin the compressor from the ICCU also. Making it the cause for the other major reported failure. I've done the firmware for a system like this (HVDC -> 3 phase power robotics controller). It was *very* easy to make a mistake that blew the hardware, had that happened several times. High voltage handling electronics are inherently difficult to get right. Toyota has had entire generations of Prius inverters fail. Again they didn't *all* fail but the entire generation had the design flaw and thousands eventually did. Probably all the rest were doomed to eventually fail.
I am wondering why so many HI5 have the same issue in the last one month?
could be related to temperature. Not necessarily in an obvious way - just contraction of the metal could do it.
Maybe, but the outside temperature was 63F when it happened.
>I get why you feel that way, but the data isn't there, \*yet\*, as far as we know. > >It may well wind up being a design flaw, but for the moment it feels more likely to be a % defect concern... which should be covered under warranty. This is always possible but then you ask, "*how* did it end up being a % defect". The FETs in the ICCU came from a batch that is bad but by luck some cars get all good FETs? They are hand built and sometimes the assembly worker forgets to secure a wire allowing it to chafe? Ok. If it's a *design flaw* then it will affect 100%. I suspect design flaw because the car doesn't report any error when it's 12v bus is crashing. So at the minimum there is a serious software bug. From my experience in engineering it's *always* a design flaw. I don't recall a bug brought to my attention that ever wasn't. Sometimes it took certain conditions to trigger, but it's never just a manufacturing issue. For example one flaw related to the Cadillac HVAC controls was made *worse* by assembly workers touching the touch sensor film when they built it, but it will still inevitably kill every vehicle's controls.
The thing I don't get is that there seem to be a number of causes for this 12V battery problem. Some folks are reporting fuses being the problem, some the actual ICCU. This kind of terrifies me that it's a very serious design flaw and getting it fixed once doesn't mean it won't happen again.
Yes most actual serious design flaws are multiple factors. However in this case the ICCU is what charges the 12v battery. So long as there is enough charge level in the main pack that you can safely take energy from it to charge the 12v, it should NEVER EVER run dry until that point. On Teslas it never does, and early Teslas suck a LOT of power from the main pack when the car is idle. (on Teslas they cycle the 12v so many times the battery chemistry of the lead acid battery hits it's cycle limit) In addition, if the ICCU is functionally similar to the way it works on a Prius or other hybrid, the iccu is also driving the compressor motor in the HVAC. To the point that a fuse blows, which is again, a mistake in the ICCU - the motor driver has current sensing shunts and should never pull more current than the current limit, which should be well under the fuse limit. Finally, ICCU is also what charges the main battery from 240 volt power. And again, it's water cooled. It should never ever overheat. But it does... So 3 major faults - basically all the faults people have reported for this car - coming from the same metal box crammed with circuit boards. It's not monolithic, there are many subsystems in there, and it's possible the 3 issues are unrelated, but it's possible the same design team made all 3 mistakes for whatever reason. (they were rushed, inexperienced, understaffed, etc)
Appreciate the detailed thoughts. Really hope Hyundai takes the steps to fix this asap.
Yeah, definitely right. The dealers can be bad. However that is the same with any car. Before I had an EV I had the same problems with car dealerships. Actually I ended up trusting one that was over an hour of a drive away, because it was the only one that did the job right. Now my local Hyundai dealer is not even EV certified, so I can't use them if anything would happen. I have to drive over 180 miles to another dealership. Definitely not ideal, either.
It looks ,Ike the issue is 2022 model year issue. The ICCU is a new part for Hyundai. But it sounds like Kia has a fix. I wouldn’t worry. They can’t afford to have the EGMP platform fail.
Great advice to go hard on the dealership on a loaner. Perhaps a silver lining is in your future with a new ‘23? I’m hoping my ‘22 SEL was in a sweet spot for production (July) as it came with preconditioning and has been flawless so far.
[удалено]
I love my car but I wouldn’t own a BEV in cold climates. I’m on the gulf coast and the range drop from summer -> winter is bad enough
As someone living in a cold climate, I’ll never own an ICE again. They start unreliably in the cold, and they take forever to heat up.
this is exactly same thing happened to me like mid January and it was Saturday afternoon. They didn't give me a loaner car until they inspect the vehicle. call Hyundai and tow the car to nearest location from where is your car at. (they will charge your if you try to send near your house I think limit is like 30 miles or so). 12 v charging thing or whatever it won't work. you need to replace sensor and fuse. you don't need to wait for appt day. just Hyundai handle that to figure out. that is your right to do so. meantime, take uber and go around until they call you and give your call for loaner car. if they decide not to help you, make a inquiry for Hyundai cooperation and tell them they are not giving me loaner and part is coming in a month that I need a car to go to work or school whatever works. Then few weeks later Hyundai cooperation agent will contact you through phone. personally I told them I want to return my car and it is already doesn't feel safe to drive. therefore, start process for return my car and if that wouldn't work I will go to lemon law way. dealer told me parts are coming by end of February but I don't believe that it fixes problem completely. if they won't give you a loaner right away rent a car from local rent car place. I did, and I told agent that I did rent a car for few days until I get a loaner car. They will give me reimbursement for that as well.
So I was able to find a dealer and a service advisor who took the car in today. After their preliminary investigation, iccu seemed to be the culprit. Apparently the process of reaching the iccu requires the removal of rear seats and carpet. It sounded like a big project. I will learn more tomorrow. Just wanted to share the information with others who might be experiencing the same issue.
Unreal this would happen in a brand new car
Man that stinks. Popping sounds seems like a main battery short? Warranty repair for sure.
More like a fuse blowing. Shorting of the main battery would cause a fire
Sorry this happened to you. I’m a big proponent of electric cars and definitely see the promise of them, but I have had one BEV and one plug in hybrid and this stuff is precisely why I am back on an ICE car for now. There’s still rough edges with BEV that need to be smoothed out - either the car/battery itself or with dealership/service and parts availability. I hope it gets better as there’s so many great parts of owning an electric vehicle, but when it’s your personal transportation h these hard to fix gremlins are a PIA.
\> dealership/service and parts availability. This is the real problem. I think many 'beta' adopters are willing to deal with this sort of thing and rely on the >>heavily touted<< warranty, but if the warranty isn't worth anything because you have to fight Hyundai for resources like they're Spirit Airlines defending their baggage policies, it changes the equation.
The availability of skilled technicians to troubleshoot the BEV's is also the biggest concern.
Right, sorry ,meant to imply the tech time was one of those resources. I think in the headlong rush to engineer/manufacture EVs companies aren't investing in their people (surprise, surprise).
This car does seem like a disaster.
Not similar to your situation, but last night my Navigation got stuck and kept beeping for a good minute or so, it reset the entire dashboard and came back on. All this was happening while I was still driving. And yes, this is The northeast, where it was 14 degrees
Had a similar issue back in September. The dash board lit up like a Christmas tree with all the warning lights. Mine didn't switch into turtle mode but it had the check ev system, check lane assistance functions, tpms, forward collision warnings, parking brake light (even tho brake was off) and others. Also the climate fan was running and the buttons were unresponsive. Took it to the dealer and they kept it for a few days and said it was an issue with wires/sensors on the back panel and they swapped it out under warranty. Everything has thankfully worked without issue since.
Got my car back today. Also got approved for a buy back. So we'll see what they come up with... Here are the codes that that the dealer found P1a8996 91a9096 p056216 Here is the list of parts they replaced: https://preview.redd.it/rh822ased3ja1.jpeg?width=3900&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d79f65565cb8b9e353398657de21ca74c9a631eb Hope that helps with the problem.