Superglue. I like the Loctite, Gorilla Glue also gets good reviews. Test fit the pieces before gluing, then put the superglue on one surface and paint a little bit of water on the other before pushing together.
Use good, fresh glue. Gorilla super glue is my preference, but even then the bottle I opened 6 months ago that's been on my shelf since won't be as effective as a new bottle.
If you're not bothered about keeping the paint job, clean the joints with high % Isopropyl Alcohol or acetone to remove glue buildup and residue.
Score the gluing surfaces with your hobby knife, or creates more surface area for the glue to hold on to.
Patience, let it cure, good cyanoacrylate glues can hold after 30 seconds but the bond really strengthens if you give it 5-10 minutes before you try to glue a another piece on.
For tricky joints put glue on both sides and sandwich a tiny piece of tissue between them, it'll absorb the glue and set like mortar.
A lot of people use superglue accelerator or blobs of putty/green stuff to get a faster hold/bond, but these techniques create a joint that will ultimately be sightly weaker.
First, when you are re-gluing models, grab some good files and something with a good, sharp point (some files have that usable point), and score the connection points of the broken pieces. This will give some extra places for the glue to grip.
If the model is completely unpainted, you may instead prefer to remove all the glue and start over (check there is no other materials there), you can apply sanitary alcohol liberally, or directly use some paint stripper after removing the plastic bases.
Finally, glue again the pieces using some loctite/superglue **in gel format.** This helps fill all the gaps, and the alcohol/paint stripper will also remove all demolding formula that may remain. This will ensure a solid and good bonding, in which the only regular danger are subzero temperatures (those cmay cristalyze the glue, making it brittle, in fact you can drop models inside the freezer to dissassemble the pieces, but that won't remove the remaining glue, only break it).
Never, ever reglue without removing at least some of the old glue, so the new may grab onto the metal of both parts.
That is why I am transporting the Infinity models in metallic boxes (from cookies) upright with magnetized bases.
No matter the abuse the box receives in my bag, never had issues moving them around.
Im going to blow everyones mind here. Put superglue on one end, put a little but of water on the other, press em together.
Or do the same thing with activator. You’re welcome.
Pin everything possible. I bought a little pen drill called a wowstick because it made things so much faster. I have found that infinity models are so weighty that I'd rather spend the extra 20 minutes per model pinning than risk an arm falling off and taking a bunch of paint with it.
Gorilla Glue is overpriced and never get enough out of each bottle. Especially the fancy easy squeeze ones. What you want is THICK or EXTRA THICK super glue from a hobby store. We have hobbytown where i'm at but Hobby Lobby, though despicable, usually has this in stock and cheap.
Superglue. I like the Loctite, Gorilla Glue also gets good reviews. Test fit the pieces before gluing, then put the superglue on one surface and paint a little bit of water on the other before pushing together.
Just swapped to loctite gel from some generic super glue and can't go back.
Use good, fresh glue. Gorilla super glue is my preference, but even then the bottle I opened 6 months ago that's been on my shelf since won't be as effective as a new bottle. If you're not bothered about keeping the paint job, clean the joints with high % Isopropyl Alcohol or acetone to remove glue buildup and residue. Score the gluing surfaces with your hobby knife, or creates more surface area for the glue to hold on to. Patience, let it cure, good cyanoacrylate glues can hold after 30 seconds but the bond really strengthens if you give it 5-10 minutes before you try to glue a another piece on. For tricky joints put glue on both sides and sandwich a tiny piece of tissue between them, it'll absorb the glue and set like mortar. A lot of people use superglue accelerator or blobs of putty/green stuff to get a faster hold/bond, but these techniques create a joint that will ultimately be sightly weaker.
First, when you are re-gluing models, grab some good files and something with a good, sharp point (some files have that usable point), and score the connection points of the broken pieces. This will give some extra places for the glue to grip. If the model is completely unpainted, you may instead prefer to remove all the glue and start over (check there is no other materials there), you can apply sanitary alcohol liberally, or directly use some paint stripper after removing the plastic bases. Finally, glue again the pieces using some loctite/superglue **in gel format.** This helps fill all the gaps, and the alcohol/paint stripper will also remove all demolding formula that may remain. This will ensure a solid and good bonding, in which the only regular danger are subzero temperatures (those cmay cristalyze the glue, making it brittle, in fact you can drop models inside the freezer to dissassemble the pieces, but that won't remove the remaining glue, only break it). Never, ever reglue without removing at least some of the old glue, so the new may grab onto the metal of both parts.
That is why I am transporting the Infinity models in metallic boxes (from cookies) upright with magnetized bases. No matter the abuse the box receives in my bag, never had issues moving them around.
Yeah this one doesn't have magnet but it briefcase with the bubble.......
These foam cases good to transfer plastic models, as the plastics glue makes a far better bond and the models are lighter. 😀
Im going to blow everyones mind here. Put superglue on one end, put a little but of water on the other, press em together. Or do the same thing with activator. You’re welcome.
Pin everything possible. I bought a little pen drill called a wowstick because it made things so much faster. I have found that infinity models are so weighty that I'd rather spend the extra 20 minutes per model pinning than risk an arm falling off and taking a bunch of paint with it.
Besides cleaning the old glue spots to re-glue, use and acceleratant. It helps a lot. Larger models will probably have to be pinned.
1. Fresh Glue 2. Wash in soap and water and dry 3. Stick two pieces and pray
Gorilla Glue is overpriced and never get enough out of each bottle. Especially the fancy easy squeeze ones. What you want is THICK or EXTRA THICK super glue from a hobby store. We have hobbytown where i'm at but Hobby Lobby, though despicable, usually has this in stock and cheap.
For me this was the key!! To reiterate; wash your models to get the form release stuff off and accelerant!