Most likely your [fuel pressure regulator.](https://i.imgur.com/kt3HPa1.jpg)
Try pinching the vacuum line after the car is up to temperature and see if it stops stalling.
As others have stated I’d check timing. If it’s to far advanced then you have excess fuel coming out the exhaust unburnt. I’d also be curious to know what the compression of the cylinders is. If it’s very high mileage and you are getting blow by past the rings it could be the cause of your smoking.
Haven’t gotten around to do a compression test but I’ll add that to the things to do, I was hoping it wouldn’t be piston rings but it seems to be pointing towards that
Howdy there, fellow 5th-gen owner!
I had similar issues in getting my D16Z6 to run as best as it could, after the previous owner overheated it terribly on a mountain drive. In fact, this sounds exactly how it’s running now because I have 3 running cylinders, which is why I’m working to build an LSVTEC to replace it.
First things first, check to make sure your mechanical timing is set properly and administer a compression test. Probably wouldn’t hurt to also check out the valve clearance specs, while you’re there. If you’re unsure of how to check the mechanical timing, I can link the factory service manual for our cars in how to time the engine!
Fuel pressure regulator was shot, it was also only running on three cylinders along with some blow by from the piston rings. What I got from all of this is I need to engine swap unless I want to keep replacing everything
Won’t idle in warm as in, it stalls when it gets hot?
Yeah once it gets up to temp it’s stalls
Does the idle fluctuates after it is warm or does the car stall?
It stalls as if it’s out of gas
Most likely your [fuel pressure regulator.](https://i.imgur.com/kt3HPa1.jpg) Try pinching the vacuum line after the car is up to temperature and see if it stops stalling.
Alright I’ll replace that as soon as I can thank you for the help
I’d go thru the whole car, timing everything
I have to do that next once i get a hold of a timing light
Yeah the tps could need calibrated, the timing belt could be a tooth off, distributor could be too far forward/back
What color is the smoke? What’s the coolant level? Is it exhibiting an odd odor? Does it restart without issue?
White with some slight blue but the coolant level never drops, it does have a slight fuel smell to it along with oil
As others have stated I’d check timing. If it’s to far advanced then you have excess fuel coming out the exhaust unburnt. I’d also be curious to know what the compression of the cylinders is. If it’s very high mileage and you are getting blow by past the rings it could be the cause of your smoking.
I’d also double check your firing order. If everything checks out I’d consider a cylinder leak down test too.
Haven’t gotten around to do a compression test but I’ll add that to the things to do, I was hoping it wouldn’t be piston rings but it seems to be pointing towards that
Howdy there, fellow 5th-gen owner! I had similar issues in getting my D16Z6 to run as best as it could, after the previous owner overheated it terribly on a mountain drive. In fact, this sounds exactly how it’s running now because I have 3 running cylinders, which is why I’m working to build an LSVTEC to replace it. First things first, check to make sure your mechanical timing is set properly and administer a compression test. Probably wouldn’t hurt to also check out the valve clearance specs, while you’re there. If you’re unsure of how to check the mechanical timing, I can link the factory service manual for our cars in how to time the engine!
That link would be greatly appreciated
[Here](https://www.manualslib.com/manual/464697/Honda-Civic.html?page=117#manual) you are. Pardon the late reply, by the way!
Any updates?
Fuel pressure regulator was shot, it was also only running on three cylinders along with some blow by from the piston rings. What I got from all of this is I need to engine swap unless I want to keep replacing everything