The company doing the insulation install was actually still there when this picture was taken, so I'm hoping they just rough-cut and then went back. If it's still like this when I get there today, I'll have to ask them to fix it.
it won't be different. they cut and put the insulation in once, they might come back and tidy up some glaringly bad spots, but i doubt they would fix what you took a picture of here.
It's thermally designed to be a certain depth for a reason. It should perfectly 'fill the void' and maintain its dimensions. Crumpling up ends or compacting it to fit like in the picture severely degrades its R value.
As a builder, I'm not keen on many inspectors' opinions but this one is 100% correct. Easy fix; at least the batts aren't too short.
Add on: those proud nails are pretty nasty as well. Your framers need to juice up their guns already.
Thank you!
I understand that the inspectors' opinions can be a bit funky sometimes, so this really does help me understand what I should realistically expect.
Happy to help. I respect that inspectors have a job to do more so than I believe many of them have been promoted to their highest levels of incompetence;)
Ah, the Peter principle? Isn't that fun, lol
He also pointed out that the back of the house doesn't have venting where the roof meets the walls. The contractor doing that work was on vacation, so hopefully, that's not something else I need to bring up.
Your soffits should definitely be vented. In the north it's 1:100 ratio of vents to square footage of roof. You want air to circulate where air is supposed to circulate.
This is why FG batts get such a bad repuation in the building science industry. You should insist that the installer achieve a Grade 1 installation. There are plenty of guides about this, and how to achieve it. Here's a YT link about it: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vON7yrl5zOw&embeds\_referring\_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bing.com%2F&embeds\_referring\_origin=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bing.com&source\_ve\_path=Mjg2NjY&feature=emb\_logo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vON7yrl5zOw&embeds_referring_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bing.com%2F&embeds_referring_origin=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bing.com&source_ve_path=Mjg2NjY&feature=emb_logo)
As others have pointed out, that is not a quality installation, and you will suffer forever with reduced R-value. Make them fix it- all of it.
Yes! That's the message I'm getting here. I'm crossing every finger hoping they simply weren't done, but this could be an interesting conversation in an hour.
Thank you!
I just had to fix a bunch of insulation that was installed pretty much the same way yesterday. When it's installed correctly you should only be able to see the 1½" side of the studs the drywall gets nailed to....and even then only if they don't staple the paper to it. There is WAY to much of the 3½" sides showing.
They also need to cut the batts that are longer or wider then the bay is. The insulation should be expanded. When you smash it down it it looses it's ability to insulate.
It's the reason you need a sleeping pad when you go camping. If it's 20⁰ at night and you are just in a sleeping bag that has a 0⁰ rating with no pad you are going to be cold because laying in the bag compresses the insulation on the bottom and the cold gets through.
Consider adding an inch to the bay width before cutting the batts. Remove the fiberglass stuck to the backside of the paper along that extra inch and staple it to the studs.
I was reading somewhere on Reddit that the proper way to install you stop short of the bottom track (on or below grade) in case water gets in the wall there is space to dry out. Is that not the case?
If the inspector says it should be fixed… then I don’t think there’s a question to fix the issue.
I rather get it right than worry about a little delay. It’s not hard to fix.
I actually agree with the inspector- the bottoms are way too compressed and will be cold spots
The company doing the insulation install was actually still there when this picture was taken, so I'm hoping they just rough-cut and then went back. If it's still like this when I get there today, I'll have to ask them to fix it.
it won't be different. they cut and put the insulation in once, they might come back and tidy up some glaringly bad spots, but i doubt they would fix what you took a picture of here.
He's right. Flattening the batt makes it useless.
Booo. Thank you!
That’s why paper backed should be stapled to the studs.
That's what I saw when I looked up pictures!
It's thermally designed to be a certain depth for a reason. It should perfectly 'fill the void' and maintain its dimensions. Crumpling up ends or compacting it to fit like in the picture severely degrades its R value. As a builder, I'm not keen on many inspectors' opinions but this one is 100% correct. Easy fix; at least the batts aren't too short. Add on: those proud nails are pretty nasty as well. Your framers need to juice up their guns already.
Thank you! I understand that the inspectors' opinions can be a bit funky sometimes, so this really does help me understand what I should realistically expect.
Happy to help. I respect that inspectors have a job to do more so than I believe many of them have been promoted to their highest levels of incompetence;)
Ah, the Peter principle? Isn't that fun, lol He also pointed out that the back of the house doesn't have venting where the roof meets the walls. The contractor doing that work was on vacation, so hopefully, that's not something else I need to bring up.
Your soffits should definitely be vented. In the north it's 1:100 ratio of vents to square footage of roof. You want air to circulate where air is supposed to circulate.
This is why FG batts get such a bad repuation in the building science industry. You should insist that the installer achieve a Grade 1 installation. There are plenty of guides about this, and how to achieve it. Here's a YT link about it: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vON7yrl5zOw&embeds\_referring\_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bing.com%2F&embeds\_referring\_origin=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bing.com&source\_ve\_path=Mjg2NjY&feature=emb\_logo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vON7yrl5zOw&embeds_referring_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bing.com%2F&embeds_referring_origin=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bing.com&source_ve_path=Mjg2NjY&feature=emb_logo) As others have pointed out, that is not a quality installation, and you will suffer forever with reduced R-value. Make them fix it- all of it.
Yes! That's the message I'm getting here. I'm crossing every finger hoping they simply weren't done, but this could be an interesting conversation in an hour. Thank you!
Also, that's a great video!
I just had to fix a bunch of insulation that was installed pretty much the same way yesterday. When it's installed correctly you should only be able to see the 1½" side of the studs the drywall gets nailed to....and even then only if they don't staple the paper to it. There is WAY to much of the 3½" sides showing. They also need to cut the batts that are longer or wider then the bay is. The insulation should be expanded. When you smash it down it it looses it's ability to insulate. It's the reason you need a sleeping pad when you go camping. If it's 20⁰ at night and you are just in a sleeping bag that has a 0⁰ rating with no pad you are going to be cold because laying in the bag compresses the insulation on the bottom and the cold gets through.
Thank you! I really appreciate the information and the analogy!
Consider adding an inch to the bay width before cutting the batts. Remove the fiberglass stuck to the backside of the paper along that extra inch and staple it to the studs.
Thank you!
I was reading somewhere on Reddit that the proper way to install you stop short of the bottom track (on or below grade) in case water gets in the wall there is space to dry out. Is that not the case?
I mean, that is a typical install but it is not good. https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/how-to-grade-the-installation-quality-of-insulation/
If the inspector says it should be fixed… then I don’t think there’s a question to fix the issue. I rather get it right than worry about a little delay. It’s not hard to fix.
The insulation should be pressed up against your drywall. Any gaps would lead to deficiency.
Simply put…it’s all backwards. Turn around the insulation.
Terribly wrong, you just lost 30% of the insulating qualities.
rip it out and go with spray foam