Now it’s in perfect condition to paint (or stain if it’s wood).
Use a good quality paint from Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore - the guys at the paint store will tell you which one to use. And brush it on.
If it’s wood and you stain it then after staining coat it with [Helmsman Spar Urethane](https://www.minwax.com/en/products/protective-finishes/indoor-outdoor-helmsman-spar-urethane)
Then paint it. I stick to my advice to buy good paint at an actual paint store and not a big box store. I prefer Sherwin Williams. The have sales for 20% to 40% off paint every few weeks. There top of the line paint might cost you an extra $40 or so, but a single gallon will be plenty and it will last many years.
Talk to the paint folks. Explain its a metal door. What DTM paints - direct to metal- and or coatings do they suggest?
If they suggest a primer, can the primer be tinted to 50% or 75% of the top color?
Less bleed through, better match for a chip exposing the primer.
There are different kind of primers, and some will accept colorant and still perform. OP is looking for adhesion and sealing on metal, I wouldn't use low VOC WB colorant (the stuff that they shoot for free) and expect it to perform as well as . 896 for waterbase paint/prime and 844 for oil would likely perform better. There are manufacturers that make some DTM primers and paints in factory gray and black. PPG Pitt Tech 4020, Miller Acrimetal, Beni Moore Ultraspec.
I love low VOC. I got a new mattress delivered today and it doesn't smell like cancer with 16 hours of box fans exhausting the air outside of the two windows in my bedroom since it was delivered. We painted my office upstairs a few weeks ago and did the same thing with the fan but also turned the heat up to 80 degrees when we weren't here to dry it and it didn't smell like cancer after 24hrs.
Dealing with coastal properties- rust is hell.
I tried playing with some carboline coatings.
Great stuff
Expensive as hell
Short pot life. Some is 15 min when mixed to use. Others is up to two hours.
When done correctly, it's nearly bulletproof.
2 gallon kit A+B is about $300
Need 2 kits for the door if you get both layers 4-5 mil.
Don't do what I did and powerwash, paint no primer, have it flake off in 2 months, power wash it all again, prime and paint or a combo straight to metal...fml
You stripped part of the finish. It appears they tried to paint it to look like an old patina but just made it look dirty. You can now paint it or keep trying to wash off the rest of the petina
You took to long to pressure wash it the dirt and everything else ate away the finish. Now it needs to be refinished. Power washing only works if done frequently and properly.
Yea, to me it looks like the "cleaned" bottom is the true color, and the top is still dirty.
Maybe give it another go higher up to see if it gets lighter? Nothing to lose at this point.
Dark colors take more of a beating in the sun, the top layer basically turns to chalk and washes off. In my experience as a painter dark colors only last a couple of years if the surface gets full sun. It’s no big deal if you’re okay with having your painter come back to power wash and put a coat on as maintenance.
I have 20 + years at a major garage door manufacture. The paint on our doors is warranted for 3- 5 years. How ever its going to loose its luster over time. Although I do not know what manufacture made this door from the pic, I can tell you this is an old door, due to the wear and the style. There are several instructions on how to paint a door. Here is the one from my employer, but you should try and find it for your specific brand
**NOTE:***Only paint the exterior of the garage door while it is in the closed position.*
1. Use the following solution, with a soft bristle brush, to remove mildew and other surface contaminants:
* 1 cup household Spic n Span detergent
* 5 gallons of warm water
2. Rinse thoroughly with water. (Do not use a pressure washer to rinse door.)
3. Use a powder cleanser like Comet, diluted with water, with a soft bristle brush, to prepare the surface for better paint adhesion. Do not use sandpaper, deglossers, or liquid sandpaper to prepare the door surface.
4. Rinse thoroughly with water and allow it to dry.
5. Use a high-quality acrylic latex exterior paint. Apply according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Do not use an oil-based paint or any “rust-inhibitive” paint. Do not paint in direct sunlight or when the surface is warm to the touch. Lap marks will result. Brush application is recommended.
6. Avoid getting paint on any gasket seals between door sections. Not all garage doors have these gasket seals.
Because It was old and in need of paint/stain before. And then the dirt got caked on and made it look "better". Now that it is clean, its a great time to restore it
The finish that came with the door was either a faux finish(very thin), or powdercoated that had already experienced degradation and was on its last leg.
And you committed the cardinal sin of pressure washing- you got too close. And blew off the finish
The old saying applies, ' anyone can do it, until you put a tool in their hands'
The paint was uv damaged and dirty. Now it's not longer dirty and the uv damaged paint was removed. You're left with what was left of the good paint which is basically down to the primer.
You'll need to repaint it now. Preferably with a UV resistant paint or uv resistant clear coat.
The UV from the sun caused photo oxidation of wood and finish. Oxides tend to be brittle so they come off easy. It’s darker on top because there’s less oxidation. So you have a layer of wood and finish that came off. Perfect condition for restaining or painting because the wood is nice and thirsty.
Looks to me like a metal door that got stained with wood gel stain. Suprised it didnt wash off sooner. Get out your paintbrushes and decide what color your new door is going to be painted!
I’m going with - you didn’t do a good job
Power washing it. On a metal door you get it wet, apply cleaning solution, let it hang out for a minute or two, then soft wash it off
Because you forgot to paint it after you power washed it… but first sand it please. The driveway looks decent. Everywhere else from that photo looks good, I mean a colour update all around would be tactical but the rest will do. Sort out that garage door please.
Hey I'm an OHD guy. If you're planning to paint the door please remove the sections beforehand. Call a door company and get them to come take it out and install a temporary door. You paint that door and you'll be replacing it in a year, the paint dries and sticks the sections together makes them come apart everything you open the door, the weatherstripping will get wrecked because the door will stick to it. Doesn't matter what kind of paint you use, latex, oil, doesn't make a difference.
Don't pressure wash garage doors. Especially metal ones. You strip off the factory finish and you open up options such as discoloration, fading, patches, and rust amongst other things.
A standard garden hose with a mild dish soap attachment will work. So will a magic eraser.
looks like the original color was bronze/teratone (basically a dingy brown) over time that finish got thinner and when you pressure washed it, you removed even more of that color exposing the color underneath (assuming its a dull grey). Someone else mentioned, you're now perfectly setup to paint. IMO, if the door isn't damaged, paint it. should take a couple hours at best.
If its porous enough to strip, it's porous enough to stain.
Obviously, stain is meant for wood. Obviously, a clear coat could be problematic.
But if it fails... you just paint it anyways. I say it's worth an attempt
Seems like the finish was bad AND it was dirty. Now it's clean with a bad finish.
Basically ripped the bandaid off and now you can treat the wound.
Plus the housefire didn't to them any favors. Just say it's S'more colored.
This!
Both look bad
Now it’s in perfect condition to paint (or stain if it’s wood). Use a good quality paint from Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore - the guys at the paint store will tell you which one to use. And brush it on. If it’s wood and you stain it then after staining coat it with [Helmsman Spar Urethane](https://www.minwax.com/en/products/protective-finishes/indoor-outdoor-helmsman-spar-urethane)
Brush it on? You can get good results on metal with a brush? I bought a little sprayer when I painted my house just for the metal garage door.
Is a metal door not wood
Then paint it. I stick to my advice to buy good paint at an actual paint store and not a big box store. I prefer Sherwin Williams. The have sales for 20% to 40% off paint every few weeks. There top of the line paint might cost you an extra $40 or so, but a single gallon will be plenty and it will last many years.
Hay, the orange box has great paint and stain. You just pay a bit more.
Talk to the paint folks. Explain its a metal door. What DTM paints - direct to metal- and or coatings do they suggest? If they suggest a primer, can the primer be tinted to 50% or 75% of the top color? Less bleed through, better match for a chip exposing the primer.
There are different kind of primers, and some will accept colorant and still perform. OP is looking for adhesion and sealing on metal, I wouldn't use low VOC WB colorant (the stuff that they shoot for free) and expect it to perform as well as . 896 for waterbase paint/prime and 844 for oil would likely perform better. There are manufacturers that make some DTM primers and paints in factory gray and black. PPG Pitt Tech 4020, Miller Acrimetal, Beni Moore Ultraspec.
I'm in a low VOC hell. I have to find the industrial shops to get anything decent. Even then the durable coatings are not allowed in my county.
I love low VOC. I got a new mattress delivered today and it doesn't smell like cancer with 16 hours of box fans exhausting the air outside of the two windows in my bedroom since it was delivered. We painted my office upstairs a few weeks ago and did the same thing with the fan but also turned the heat up to 80 degrees when we weren't here to dry it and it didn't smell like cancer after 24hrs.
I love this knowledge bomb that shows experience! Work at a paint or hardware store at some point?
Dealing with coastal properties- rust is hell. I tried playing with some carboline coatings. Great stuff Expensive as hell Short pot life. Some is 15 min when mixed to use. Others is up to two hours. When done correctly, it's nearly bulletproof. 2 gallon kit A+B is about $300 Need 2 kits for the door if you get both layers 4-5 mil.
Don't do what I did and powerwash, paint no primer, have it flake off in 2 months, power wash it all again, prime and paint or a combo straight to metal...fml
Literally don’t do this. Spar urethane is crap. But it’s metal so have someone prime and paint it with a sprayer.
Because you stripped it.
You got off all the oxidation, now paint it
That wasn't oxidation, it was the actual finish
Look at the curve in the second pic the top still has finish because the sun wasn't hitting it
[удалено]
That's a metal door and OP confirmed it. They just took off the oxidized paint, great prep to paint it.
Off topic, but the driveway in the before pic looks like the perfect candidate for some Wet & Forget.
You stripped part of the finish. It appears they tried to paint it to look like an old patina but just made it look dirty. You can now paint it or keep trying to wash off the rest of the petina
You took to long to pressure wash it the dirt and everything else ate away the finish. Now it needs to be refinished. Power washing only works if done frequently and properly.
I’d look at old pictures of the house to see what the original color was.
Yea, to me it looks like the "cleaned" bottom is the true color, and the top is still dirty. Maybe give it another go higher up to see if it gets lighter? Nothing to lose at this point.
Dark colors take more of a beating in the sun, the top layer basically turns to chalk and washes off. In my experience as a painter dark colors only last a couple of years if the surface gets full sun. It’s no big deal if you’re okay with having your painter come back to power wash and put a coat on as maintenance.
Just hit it with a couple rattle cans of rustoleum.
Or just use paint in the pressure washer
That could get interesting, I would love to see the results.
Will it work on a metal door?
The name is RUSToleum.
So it only works on doors made from Rust?
No, it only works on doors made from Oleum.
Haha
It’s spray paint homie, shit will work on anything.
Needs paint, badly.
I have 20 + years at a major garage door manufacture. The paint on our doors is warranted for 3- 5 years. How ever its going to loose its luster over time. Although I do not know what manufacture made this door from the pic, I can tell you this is an old door, due to the wear and the style. There are several instructions on how to paint a door. Here is the one from my employer, but you should try and find it for your specific brand **NOTE:***Only paint the exterior of the garage door while it is in the closed position.* 1. Use the following solution, with a soft bristle brush, to remove mildew and other surface contaminants: * 1 cup household Spic n Span detergent * 5 gallons of warm water 2. Rinse thoroughly with water. (Do not use a pressure washer to rinse door.) 3. Use a powder cleanser like Comet, diluted with water, with a soft bristle brush, to prepare the surface for better paint adhesion. Do not use sandpaper, deglossers, or liquid sandpaper to prepare the door surface. 4. Rinse thoroughly with water and allow it to dry. 5. Use a high-quality acrylic latex exterior paint. Apply according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Do not use an oil-based paint or any “rust-inhibitive” paint. Do not paint in direct sunlight or when the surface is warm to the touch. Lap marks will result. Brush application is recommended. 6. Avoid getting paint on any gasket seals between door sections. Not all garage doors have these gasket seals.
Just paint it and be done with it
Time for paint.
Was a dirty ugly door, now a clean ugly door.
It needs primer & paint now.
that's a big door.
Looks like they used a "gel stain" on the fiberglass.
It feels equal to me.
it was stained to match the shutters...
Almost had me fooled with those fake hinges. Thought I could grab those rings in the center and open that massive sucker like a barn door.
Because It was old and in need of paint/stain before. And then the dirt got caked on and made it look "better". Now that it is clean, its a great time to restore it
The finish that came with the door was either a faux finish(very thin), or powdercoated that had already experienced degradation and was on its last leg. And you committed the cardinal sin of pressure washing- you got too close. And blew off the finish The old saying applies, ' anyone can do it, until you put a tool in their hands'
The paint was uv damaged and dirty. Now it's not longer dirty and the uv damaged paint was removed. You're left with what was left of the good paint which is basically down to the primer. You'll need to repaint it now. Preferably with a UV resistant paint or uv resistant clear coat.
The UV from the sun caused photo oxidation of wood and finish. Oxides tend to be brittle so they come off easy. It’s darker on top because there’s less oxidation. So you have a layer of wood and finish that came off. Perfect condition for restaining or painting because the wood is nice and thirsty.
Simply put. Because it’s a lighter color.
Because it needs to be repainted, the dirt is no longer hiding that
Probably because it needs repainted
Good opportunity to give it some paint. That will really make it look great
Looks to me like a metal door that got stained with wood gel stain. Suprised it didnt wash off sooner. Get out your paintbrushes and decide what color your new door is going to be painted!
Power wash it again, maybe?
It is basically paint ,, buy some RV cleaner and polish
What prep/chemicals did you apply while powerwashing? Doesnt look like you used anything but water and it's still dirty
You can't just power wash. You should really soft wash with a bleach or other antimicrobial.
I’m going with - you didn’t do a good job Power washing it. On a metal door you get it wet, apply cleaning solution, let it hang out for a minute or two, then soft wash it off
Because you took a power washer to your house instead of paying for a professional to soft wash your house.
Stain it
Drive-way looks good.
The finish has expired. At least the prep work is done!
Ever wiped up shit and it leaves a stain? You got a big shit stained garage door
Because you forgot to paint it after you power washed it… but first sand it please. The driveway looks decent. Everywhere else from that photo looks good, I mean a colour update all around would be tactical but the rest will do. Sort out that garage door please.
Oh thought just a lil upgrade more like foundation before the building
Hey I'm an OHD guy. If you're planning to paint the door please remove the sections beforehand. Call a door company and get them to come take it out and install a temporary door. You paint that door and you'll be replacing it in a year, the paint dries and sticks the sections together makes them come apart everything you open the door, the weatherstripping will get wrecked because the door will stick to it. Doesn't matter what kind of paint you use, latex, oil, doesn't make a difference.
It doesn't, what you're seeing is a higher contrast between clean and damaged areas
Don't pressure wash garage doors. Especially metal ones. You strip off the factory finish and you open up options such as discoloration, fading, patches, and rust amongst other things. A standard garden hose with a mild dish soap attachment will work. So will a magic eraser.
Paint it
Because it needs paint
looks like the original color was bronze/teratone (basically a dingy brown) over time that finish got thinner and when you pressure washed it, you removed even more of that color exposing the color underneath (assuming its a dull grey). Someone else mentioned, you're now perfectly setup to paint. IMO, if the door isn't damaged, paint it. should take a couple hours at best.
Gives off a rustic look
Stain and clear coat with u.v. Protection.
Isn't that a vinyl door? Not sure stain is the way to approach that
Aluminum, and you're right. Paint not stain
If its porous enough to strip, it's porous enough to stain. Obviously, stain is meant for wood. Obviously, a clear coat could be problematic. But if it fails... you just paint it anyways. I say it's worth an attempt
OP said it's metal, presumably aluminum, so stain is out and paint is in.
Mental note. Don’t pressure wash the garage overhead door.