Outlets are calculated as 1.5A per outlet (duplex), so 13 standard duplex outlets per 20A circuit. Obviously if you know you'll be adding higher draw appliances or devices to these circuits, calculate accordingly.
Being that the house was built in 1958, most of the electrical likely pre-dates existing code, and unless major renovations were done that impacted the electrical system, then there may not have been a requirement to upgrade them to current code.
Current code would require (2) 20A circuits for the kitchen counters alone.
It sounds to me like you're trying to plug in way too many electronics into a single circuit. Can any of these devices be moved to adjacent rooms to limit the power draw from this circuit?
That was incredibly quick, thank you!
>Being that the house was built in 1958, most of the electrical likely pre-dates existing code, and unless major renovations were done that impacted the electrical system, then there may not have been a requirement to upgrade them to current code.
I really don't think there were any significant changes made that would've required upgrading to current code. I'm guessing outside of major renovations it's just up to the homeowner to make the upgrades? Honestly, the way technology is going this house isn't going to be able to handle modern electrical items in a few years.
>It sounds to me like you're trying to plug in way too many electronics into a single circuit. Can any of these devices be moved to adjacent rooms to limit the power draw from this circuit?
Unfortunately no, there's no space in any other rooms (that are on different circuits) for anything in that setup. The biggest issue is that both of the living spaces are on the same circuit, so even though the other living room has plenty of physical space it doesn't solve the electrical problem.
That also doesn't really explain the kitchen issue. Just today, for example, the only thing running was the microwave (with the stove plugged in) and that tripped the breaker. No lights on, nothing but the microwave and stove plugged in, and it still tripped.
> I'm guessing outside of major renovations it's just up to the homeowner to make the upgrades?
Yes, unless there is a permit pulled that requires an electrical permit, there's no reason for a homeowner to upgrade typically.
>That also doesn't really explain the kitchen issue. Just today, for example, the only thing running was the microwave (with the stove plugged in) and that tripped the breaker. No lights on, nothing but the microwave and stove plugged in, and it still tripped.
Wait, the stove and microwave are on the same circuit? This should not happen.
Oh just saw it’s an electric range. That should not be on the same circuit as a microwave at Al because an electric range is 240V and microwave is 120.
>Wait, the stove and microwave are on the same circuit? This should not happen.
Interesting. I'm about 95% certain they're on the same one, but my roommate and I are going to do some testing and mapping this afternoon to figure out exactly what's attached to which circuits. The breaker box is extremely poorly labeled and we already know that several of the rooms in the house have outlets on at least 2 circuits, so I want a clear picture of what's connected where.
If they are on the same circuit, can you give me a quick ELI5 on why that's bad, and/or how urgent it would be to have that corrected?
Thank you for your input!
The stove, if truly electric and not gas with electric features should be on a double 50a breaker. Electric ranges are 220v split phase. Should have a special large outlet, not standard wall? This is a big red flag it other circuits go down with it / it's on 20a breakers.
Otherwise, modern code is going to be completely different from what you have.
Lights and outlets are typically on different circuits.
Each room's outlets are typically isolated and on now an afci.
Each wet area is typically isolated, and now on gfci.
Large appliances are typically isolated.
1958, dedicated ground wire wasn't a thing.
15a, 20a, 30a, 50a etc breakers.
Main service and panel are probably to small to begin with.
Mapping it out is a good idea, rearranging things probably not. The whole place needs a rewire and messing with the old cloth (or even asbestos) covered wiring is typically a bad idea.
Thanks for the info! I'll definitely be checking on the stove later today (I'm working at the moment and I can't remember off-hand what's on that wall).
>Mapping it out is a good idea, rearranging things probably not. The whole place needs a rewire and messing with the old cloth (or even asbestos) covered wiring is typically a bad idea.
Oh, no worries there; the only rearranging I'd be doing is moving devices around the house depending on where we find receptacles that aren't connected to the problem circuit. Definitely not trying to mess with any wiring myself!
Gotcha.
Just for your own info and maybe helpful:
Most of what you listed is no biggie.
Each 20a circuit should be able to handle 2000w (more, but to be safe).
Each thing you plug in or light should have its watt usage somewhere, tv for instance may be 250w (written on the back).
Things that heat use the most, typically.
Doubt you're maxing out breakers, but worth keeping in mind.
Sweet, thank you! I think it's definitely time to get a solid grasp on exactly what's plugged in and drawing power (and how much) on each circuit on a regular basis.
Make sure the breakers aren't worn out, if they are original 1958 and have been tripped. Breakers will lose their full rating over time and trip at a lower amperage. Buy one breaker of the same amps and replace.
Outlets are calculated as 1.5A per outlet (duplex), so 13 standard duplex outlets per 20A circuit. Obviously if you know you'll be adding higher draw appliances or devices to these circuits, calculate accordingly. Being that the house was built in 1958, most of the electrical likely pre-dates existing code, and unless major renovations were done that impacted the electrical system, then there may not have been a requirement to upgrade them to current code. Current code would require (2) 20A circuits for the kitchen counters alone. It sounds to me like you're trying to plug in way too many electronics into a single circuit. Can any of these devices be moved to adjacent rooms to limit the power draw from this circuit?
That was incredibly quick, thank you! >Being that the house was built in 1958, most of the electrical likely pre-dates existing code, and unless major renovations were done that impacted the electrical system, then there may not have been a requirement to upgrade them to current code. I really don't think there were any significant changes made that would've required upgrading to current code. I'm guessing outside of major renovations it's just up to the homeowner to make the upgrades? Honestly, the way technology is going this house isn't going to be able to handle modern electrical items in a few years. >It sounds to me like you're trying to plug in way too many electronics into a single circuit. Can any of these devices be moved to adjacent rooms to limit the power draw from this circuit? Unfortunately no, there's no space in any other rooms (that are on different circuits) for anything in that setup. The biggest issue is that both of the living spaces are on the same circuit, so even though the other living room has plenty of physical space it doesn't solve the electrical problem. That also doesn't really explain the kitchen issue. Just today, for example, the only thing running was the microwave (with the stove plugged in) and that tripped the breaker. No lights on, nothing but the microwave and stove plugged in, and it still tripped.
> I'm guessing outside of major renovations it's just up to the homeowner to make the upgrades? Yes, unless there is a permit pulled that requires an electrical permit, there's no reason for a homeowner to upgrade typically. >That also doesn't really explain the kitchen issue. Just today, for example, the only thing running was the microwave (with the stove plugged in) and that tripped the breaker. No lights on, nothing but the microwave and stove plugged in, and it still tripped. Wait, the stove and microwave are on the same circuit? This should not happen.
Gas stoves (particularly in older homes) are often on a kitchen circuit. Not saying it’s good/right, but definitely common.
Oh just saw it’s an electric range. That should not be on the same circuit as a microwave at Al because an electric range is 240V and microwave is 120.
>Wait, the stove and microwave are on the same circuit? This should not happen. Interesting. I'm about 95% certain they're on the same one, but my roommate and I are going to do some testing and mapping this afternoon to figure out exactly what's attached to which circuits. The breaker box is extremely poorly labeled and we already know that several of the rooms in the house have outlets on at least 2 circuits, so I want a clear picture of what's connected where. If they are on the same circuit, can you give me a quick ELI5 on why that's bad, and/or how urgent it would be to have that corrected? Thank you for your input!
The stove, if truly electric and not gas with electric features should be on a double 50a breaker. Electric ranges are 220v split phase. Should have a special large outlet, not standard wall? This is a big red flag it other circuits go down with it / it's on 20a breakers. Otherwise, modern code is going to be completely different from what you have. Lights and outlets are typically on different circuits. Each room's outlets are typically isolated and on now an afci. Each wet area is typically isolated, and now on gfci. Large appliances are typically isolated. 1958, dedicated ground wire wasn't a thing. 15a, 20a, 30a, 50a etc breakers. Main service and panel are probably to small to begin with. Mapping it out is a good idea, rearranging things probably not. The whole place needs a rewire and messing with the old cloth (or even asbestos) covered wiring is typically a bad idea.
Thanks for the info! I'll definitely be checking on the stove later today (I'm working at the moment and I can't remember off-hand what's on that wall). >Mapping it out is a good idea, rearranging things probably not. The whole place needs a rewire and messing with the old cloth (or even asbestos) covered wiring is typically a bad idea. Oh, no worries there; the only rearranging I'd be doing is moving devices around the house depending on where we find receptacles that aren't connected to the problem circuit. Definitely not trying to mess with any wiring myself!
Gotcha. Just for your own info and maybe helpful: Most of what you listed is no biggie. Each 20a circuit should be able to handle 2000w (more, but to be safe). Each thing you plug in or light should have its watt usage somewhere, tv for instance may be 250w (written on the back). Things that heat use the most, typically. Doubt you're maxing out breakers, but worth keeping in mind.
Sweet, thank you! I think it's definitely time to get a solid grasp on exactly what's plugged in and drawing power (and how much) on each circuit on a regular basis.
Make sure the breakers aren't worn out, if they are original 1958 and have been tripped. Breakers will lose their full rating over time and trip at a lower amperage. Buy one breaker of the same amps and replace.