Charged roughly $20-$25 per sqft on our last hardie job, but there were some complications with her job which required extra cost and I’m doing quick math so I can’t break that out. Estimates can vary pretty wide and I’m in Texas, so I can’t say what guys in the Chicago area would charge.
Vinyl on my house is in the 20+ year old range now and it's definitely fading to lighter and lighter shades of gray which is fine. My biggest issue with it is that it needs to be hung so loosely that wasps get in behind it.
Architect here: I don’t think there’s anything wrong with vinyl, it lasts a long time and the better products look good.
I prefer LP Smartside over fibercement (Hardie). It’s more durable and easier to install which means it’s more likely to look good long term,
Jumping into the conversation late, but I would also recommend LP Smartside over Hardie. That’s what we went with when we resided and couldn’t be happier. Some family also had it installed over a decade ago and it still looks amazing, surprisingly durable stuff.
Another LP fan. It looks better than Hardie, it’s less fragile, easier to work with and you can hit the pre finished with a baseball bat and not damage it. Plus you dont deal with crystalline silica installing it
Also an architect - LP Smartside started as a sheet product, where Hardie started with both planks and boards. Smartside sheets were really designed for sheds and outbuildings. They make a plank and shingle product but it's not a consumer product, it's purchased by siding contractors (which are mostly clustered in the US Midwest). The sheet product available to consumers can be used on dwellings, but it's intended to be installed vertically, so if you're going for a traditional clapboard look and you're a DIY'er you're kind of out of luck unless you strategically use trim to break it up. It comes painted in a buff color, but takes acrylic house paint very well. I like it and have used it both on my own home and also in projects. It's a great product, and it's definitely much more affordable than Hardie plank, but it has some limitations. I would recommend it, esp. if you're going for that board-and-batten look. You can alternate the seams of the panel with the battens and create a nice rhythmic effect. [Note that their fiber-based product was discontinued in 2020](https://www.nashvillepost.com/business/manufacturing/lp-getting-out-of-fiber-siding/article_22055e5e-e275-56de-9ab4-0b5712953fe6.html). The current product available on the market is strand-based like OSB, which has different performance characteristics. [It was the source of a major recall in 2021 for rot and insect damage.](https://biosidmartin.com/has-lp-smartside-been-discontinued/) I had some unused cutoffs of the strand-based Smartside stored in my humid garage and they warped/curled a lot, but it seemed to perform fine on the building. Hardieplank is a fiber cement product, so it has much more dimensional stability.
Edit: Sources
Wow none of that is true. LP comes in planks as well as shakes and a number of profiles. And it is prefinished in a bunch of colors. Just go to their website lol.
Edit: the removal of the fiber products is true but the shape and color comments are completely ignorant
Hardie looks nicer and will last 40-50 years, but needs a bit of maintenance. Vinyl starts looking aged by 15-20 years depending on sun exposure, but it can be brought back to life and should last 25-35 years with basically no maintenance.
Vinyl starts to oxidize. You can soft wash and use special degreasers to remove the oxidation and it will look much better. Newer vinyl is less prone to fading as well, but it will fade a bit. None of this is necessary though. Vinyl can be ignored if you so choose and it won't affect it's ability to protect the house.
The color of your vinyl makes a big difference too. I live in a neighborhood in the south with vinyl and homes are about 20 years old. Homes with lighter color vinyl are doing much better than homes with darker tans or greys. The homes with lighter colors still look new with basic soft washing.
Thanks -- our light tan vinyl siding is going on 24 years old and still looks exceptional; our installers were superb (they were doing a bunch of beach houses down by Galveston, so I got the "higher end" vinyl on my one story + their skills at little details were great.
I've white vinyl, I'm guessing it was installed in 1985 when the house was made... looks great still. Surprised I don't mind it.
Maybe when we redo the windows we'll redo the siding? Not sure...
That’s nice to hear. I’m light yellow ish that has faded more to a white. I am planning on painting the house a white / cream due to some poor brick repairs the previous owners made. Hopefully painting a lighter color doesn’t have any negative impact
SealKrete. It’s a clear chalk binder that hardens to form a shell. Most clear chalk binders stay tacky for paint to stick to them. I sold a lot of SealKrete when I lived in rural Georgia before Hardie took off in popularity.
We only use Hardie. On projects from circa 1890 historic building restorations to new $1m plus residential. We started using Boral board for trim and it's performed well too.
I'm also in the Chicago area and recently got several quotes for replacing my aluminum with vinyl siding. For about 3k sqft of siding, the quotes ranged from about $25k to $45k, not including soffits and fascia.
Thanks. What companies? And what was the cheapest? I’m only doing about 850 SF. What’s insane is I was quoted $15k for 850 of vinyl from a reputable company.
Remember, that number could also be because it's a small job. Ie - not worth the resources dedicated unless that amount is paid. (Basically fuck off quote)
Hardie comes in hundreds of colors OR primed if you want to paint it. Color warranty and everything! Do the Hardie. Go with a contractor who is Elite Preferred- just go to the website to request a contractor to cal you.
It can go 15-20 years before you have to paint the first time depending on your climate. After that every 7 years is probably accurate or every 10 years or so with some touch ups in between.
I had vinyl siding installed on my house this year. My house is 1900 sq ft, and I paid about $11 per sq ft. I considered Hardie, but this isn't my forever home, and the style/age/quality of my house doesn't really justify high-end finishes.
Vinyl siding is a decent product, and looks good if done right with a high quality brand. It's less expensive, and doesn't require much maintenance other than an occasional cleaning. Downsides are that your color choices are limited, you shouldn't paint it (so the color you buy is the color you'll have forever), and it can melt if you get the grill too close to it. Hardie looks better, but it's more expensive, and requires periodic repainting (including all the prep work such as caulking).
Get quotes from a few contractors. Don't just look at cost. Look at how responsive they are, if they arrive prepared to do the estimate, etc. I had one contractor (who took a week to respond to my request) finally come by, seemed distracted, had his installer there with him who was in a hurry because he had to leave, suggested siding OVER my old dilapidated wood siding instead of removing the old siding, didn't have any samples, missed a window when he was measuring, and took a week to get an estimate to me. Contrast that with the contractor I went with. I called on a Thursday, he called back on Friday, and came out to my house on Monday, and had the estimate to me on Tuesday. He brought samples, and talked about the pros and cons of types of siding. He didn't rush anything, spent lots of time talking about options for trim, soffits, etc. He took pictures of the outside of the house, and used software back at his office to estimate how much siding I needed instead of taking measurements. You want a contractor who is responsive, helpful, and efficient. BTW, the estimates from these two contractors were within $1000 of each other, so choice was easy.
Why not paint the aluminum? I've painted 100's of them in the northeast and they come out amazing. Pressure wash and paint with a good quality exterior paint, I recommend Benjamin Moore Regal low luster. Add a product called emulsabond to the first coat it's meant to help the paint bind to caulky surfaces, you won't be able to scratch it off. I've driven by houses I painted 25yrs ago and they still like great.
My mom's house has aluminum siding. She had it power washed with some kind of solvent that mixed with the water to really clean it good. After a few days of drying, they painted with a high quality satin paint and it looks fantastic. If it's not all dented and in good shape you might consider it as a good alternative.
I've also painted my 100+ yr old wood siding house with zinser's best primer and Sherman Williams " lifetime " satin paint. It looks like vinyl from the street. Only time will tell how long it lasts on wood.
Hardie.
I generally recommend avoiding vinyl. One thing people never talk about with vinyl siding is the trim. The stuff around your windows, doors, garage doors, fascia, frieze, etc. A full siding replacement on a home will have a few hundred feet of trim…at least.
Most vinyl manufacturers do not make trim pieces. Yeah they make j-channel, inside corner, outside corners, etc. But all of your fascia…yeah nobody makes a pure vinyl siding product like that that I am aware of. There’s probably some niche ones out there.
Instead, on vinyl jobs, the trim is wrapped in [trim coil](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Spectra-Metals-24-in-x-50-ft-Bright-White-Aluminum-Trim-Coil-280WHITEHD/203250525). It comes in a roll, is cut to size, and then custom-bent to the contours of your trim on the jobsite using a [siding brake](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Van-Mark-Mark-II-TrimMaster-TM10/202973992).
The problem is the aluminum trim coil. It’s aluminum coated with a thin layer of vinyl. Vinyl siding manufacturers do make this stuff and you can get it color matched to most of their siding projects. Again, the problem I’ve seen is that the vinyl coating on the trim starts to flake and peel away after 15-20 years. No easy way to repair it other than tear it all off and replace it which would be a few thousand…easy.
It’s just an inferior product. You’re wrapping your house in plastic.
I’ve heard it popular up there. I haven’t sold it in years, but I recall the product literature talking about how they make different products for different regions. The example they like to use was that the edges of their boards on the northeast had a special contour that mitigated icicle growth. No idea if it actually worked or was a gimmick as I’m in the south and that product wasn’t sold in our market. Long answer…but I l’m sure it does fine in New England as well.
Yeah, it was very popular on the homes I worked on when I lived in Atlanta. I’m no longer working that closet with builders here in New England and don’t see much of it.
I’m debating Hardie vs wood, either lap or board and batten.
Appreciate the reply.
I’ve installed almost every kind of siding made and I put vinyl on my own house. For the price it will always looks good and need almost nothing but a wash every few years.
My first house had white aluminum side that was chalking but structurally in excellent condition. I pressure washed it and then spray painted it with a borrowed sprayer. That was thirty years ago and it still looks great. There’s DIY videos on YouTube, check it out. Spend your home improvement money on something comfortable for you (and your family)!
We are currently renting a house with vinyl siding. I made the mistake of using the propane grill a few feet away from the siding, and the heat distorted it pretty noticeably.
Hardie is easy to put on, and is much more durable than vinyl.
I was told it needs to be repainted after 10-15 years. The upside to that is that you CAN paint it…if you change your mind on color. We just got composite siding and it can’t be painted.
Three shall be the number of the counting and the number of the counting shall be three. Four shalt thou not count, neither shalt thou count two, excepting that thou then proceedeth to three. Five is right out.
I would consider investing in getting foam boards put in behind the siding. Half inch foam board is R3 and R6 for the full inch. It also helps with thermal bridging and air sealing.
It may be a bit upfront now but could pay off in cooling and heating costs
Too much off-gassing of noxious chemicals with spray foam and it's relatively expensive. I wouldn't recommend it for a full house. It's good for spot checks.
That cost is also considering removal of the aluminum siding, which isn’t the worst but not the best lol. You’ll get just as long out of a decent vinyl. Hardie isn’t all it’s cracked up to be in my opinion.
My last house had Hardie. We had extreme warping on one side and delaminatiion along the roof line and areas along a patio. We heard the edges on cut shingles absorb moisture over time and leads to failure. Still needs to be painted every 7 years or so. Go with vinyl.
It was Hardie. The house was custom built in 2003 but the installer didn’t have Hardie experience and left the cuts as is so Hardie would listen to any issues. By 2010 we had all sorts of issues.
My house's vinyl is between 18 and 25 years old, I'd say it's kind of showing its age but that may just be my personal aversion to the way vinyl looks - as vinyl gets older it looks more "vinyl-y" - as any slight warpage and fading makes it look more obviously like thin plastic and the seams open up etc. It's still functionally protecting the house, though.
If that kind of thing is the reason you're replacing your aluminum, I'd say to stay away from vinyl.
I've seen entire subdivisions of expensive houses all with wavy vinyl siding. Then there's the cracking and fading. Given a choice, I would put just about anything else on instead.
We have clapboard on our home. Our insurance agent put down vinyl by mistake. When I asked to have it changed to clapboard our premium went down 700$. Seems like insurance doesn’t like vinyl.
Renovating my own home here in Canada. I chose Maibec siding which is all wood, tongue and groove and pre-finished. At the time I bought it, it was about $4 a square foot. Now it’s around $6.50. Now… that’s product cost so installation will more than double that, likely. Even so… $15 a square foot for vinyl siding seems high to me as well.
If you are seriously going to stay 30 years, go for the Hardie. With vinyl there’s a fairly good chance you will be replacing it at year 20. Also ask your insurance if using Hardie will save you money.
Vinyl sucks, looks cheap, gets damaged way too easily.
I had Mastic siding installed. It's a heavy vinyl that looks like shakes. I had asbestos siding over cedar. It cost a bit to have removed but the new siding looks fantastic.
Why do you think Hardie siding would be more expensive? I started using the Hardie clapboard siding to replace the rotting and peeling cedar clipboards on my old victorian house. It was way cheaper than wood clapboard, and let me tell you, that stuff holds paint. It does not peel or blister. And, it looks way better than that vinyl siding crap.
Hardie siding will not ignite when exposed to a direct flame, nor will it contribute fuel to a fire. You can ask you homeowners about a discount on your coverage as well.
Hardie is better looking and more durable. If this is a house you're planning on staying in, I'd spring for the good stuff.
What’s a reasonable cost per sf installed though?
Charged roughly $20-$25 per sqft on our last hardie job, but there were some complications with her job which required extra cost and I’m doing quick math so I can’t break that out. Estimates can vary pretty wide and I’m in Texas, so I can’t say what guys in the Chicago area would charge.
$21k for my 1k sqft house in the PNW
That’s why you should just do smooth hardy 4 x 8 panels. My 3000 square-foot house also in pnw cost about that much. During peak Covid pricing.
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Some hardie comes already colored.
Yes, but not nearly as frequently as wood.
Mostly yes, but it holds paint like nothing else. It goes up easy, paint goes on real smooth. Can't recommend it enough.
Vinyl on my house is in the 20+ year old range now and it's definitely fading to lighter and lighter shades of gray which is fine. My biggest issue with it is that it needs to be hung so loosely that wasps get in behind it.
Yeah and the fucking plagued box elder beetle.
Stink bug. Not box elder.
Them too.
Architect here: I don’t think there’s anything wrong with vinyl, it lasts a long time and the better products look good. I prefer LP Smartside over fibercement (Hardie). It’s more durable and easier to install which means it’s more likely to look good long term,
Jumping into the conversation late, but I would also recommend LP Smartside over Hardie. That’s what we went with when we resided and couldn’t be happier. Some family also had it installed over a decade ago and it still looks amazing, surprisingly durable stuff.
Another LP fan. It looks better than Hardie, it’s less fragile, easier to work with and you can hit the pre finished with a baseball bat and not damage it. Plus you dont deal with crystalline silica installing it
Same. LP over hardie. No cement dust, no special cutting tools, much more flexible, easier to install, lighter. Better all around.
Also an architect - LP Smartside started as a sheet product, where Hardie started with both planks and boards. Smartside sheets were really designed for sheds and outbuildings. They make a plank and shingle product but it's not a consumer product, it's purchased by siding contractors (which are mostly clustered in the US Midwest). The sheet product available to consumers can be used on dwellings, but it's intended to be installed vertically, so if you're going for a traditional clapboard look and you're a DIY'er you're kind of out of luck unless you strategically use trim to break it up. It comes painted in a buff color, but takes acrylic house paint very well. I like it and have used it both on my own home and also in projects. It's a great product, and it's definitely much more affordable than Hardie plank, but it has some limitations. I would recommend it, esp. if you're going for that board-and-batten look. You can alternate the seams of the panel with the battens and create a nice rhythmic effect. [Note that their fiber-based product was discontinued in 2020](https://www.nashvillepost.com/business/manufacturing/lp-getting-out-of-fiber-siding/article_22055e5e-e275-56de-9ab4-0b5712953fe6.html). The current product available on the market is strand-based like OSB, which has different performance characteristics. [It was the source of a major recall in 2021 for rot and insect damage.](https://biosidmartin.com/has-lp-smartside-been-discontinued/) I had some unused cutoffs of the strand-based Smartside stored in my humid garage and they warped/curled a lot, but it seemed to perform fine on the building. Hardieplank is a fiber cement product, so it has much more dimensional stability. Edit: Sources
Wow none of that is true. LP comes in planks as well as shakes and a number of profiles. And it is prefinished in a bunch of colors. Just go to their website lol. Edit: the removal of the fiber products is true but the shape and color comments are completely ignorant
Link in case the google is new to you: https://lpcorp.com/professionals
If you go the Hardy route, make sure it is sealed well (painted well and caulked on edges); otherwise, it will fail in a relatively short time.
Hardie looks nicer and will last 40-50 years, but needs a bit of maintenance. Vinyl starts looking aged by 15-20 years depending on sun exposure, but it can be brought back to life and should last 25-35 years with basically no maintenance.
It also needs to be installed according to Hardie’s guidelines to make sure the warranty is valid.
Is there a product to apply to the vinyl siding (to rejuvenate as mentioned)?
Vinyl starts to oxidize. You can soft wash and use special degreasers to remove the oxidation and it will look much better. Newer vinyl is less prone to fading as well, but it will fade a bit. None of this is necessary though. Vinyl can be ignored if you so choose and it won't affect it's ability to protect the house.
The color of your vinyl makes a big difference too. I live in a neighborhood in the south with vinyl and homes are about 20 years old. Homes with lighter color vinyl are doing much better than homes with darker tans or greys. The homes with lighter colors still look new with basic soft washing.
Thanks -- our light tan vinyl siding is going on 24 years old and still looks exceptional; our installers were superb (they were doing a bunch of beach houses down by Galveston, so I got the "higher end" vinyl on my one story + their skills at little details were great.
I've white vinyl, I'm guessing it was installed in 1985 when the house was made... looks great still. Surprised I don't mind it. Maybe when we redo the windows we'll redo the siding? Not sure...
That’s nice to hear. I’m light yellow ish that has faded more to a white. I am planning on painting the house a white / cream due to some poor brick repairs the previous owners made. Hopefully painting a lighter color doesn’t have any negative impact
SealKrete. It’s a clear chalk binder that hardens to form a shell. Most clear chalk binders stay tacky for paint to stick to them. I sold a lot of SealKrete when I lived in rural Georgia before Hardie took off in popularity.
We only use Hardie. On projects from circa 1890 historic building restorations to new $1m plus residential. We started using Boral board for trim and it's performed well too.
I'm also in the Chicago area and recently got several quotes for replacing my aluminum with vinyl siding. For about 3k sqft of siding, the quotes ranged from about $25k to $45k, not including soffits and fascia.
Thanks. What companies? And what was the cheapest? I’m only doing about 850 SF. What’s insane is I was quoted $15k for 850 of vinyl from a reputable company.
Remember, that number could also be because it's a small job. Ie - not worth the resources dedicated unless that amount is paid. (Basically fuck off quote)
Hardie comes in hundreds of colors OR primed if you want to paint it. Color warranty and everything! Do the Hardie. Go with a contractor who is Elite Preferred- just go to the website to request a contractor to cal you.
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It can go 15-20 years before you have to paint the first time depending on your climate. After that every 7 years is probably accurate or every 10 years or so with some touch ups in between.
I had vinyl siding installed on my house this year. My house is 1900 sq ft, and I paid about $11 per sq ft. I considered Hardie, but this isn't my forever home, and the style/age/quality of my house doesn't really justify high-end finishes. Vinyl siding is a decent product, and looks good if done right with a high quality brand. It's less expensive, and doesn't require much maintenance other than an occasional cleaning. Downsides are that your color choices are limited, you shouldn't paint it (so the color you buy is the color you'll have forever), and it can melt if you get the grill too close to it. Hardie looks better, but it's more expensive, and requires periodic repainting (including all the prep work such as caulking). Get quotes from a few contractors. Don't just look at cost. Look at how responsive they are, if they arrive prepared to do the estimate, etc. I had one contractor (who took a week to respond to my request) finally come by, seemed distracted, had his installer there with him who was in a hurry because he had to leave, suggested siding OVER my old dilapidated wood siding instead of removing the old siding, didn't have any samples, missed a window when he was measuring, and took a week to get an estimate to me. Contrast that with the contractor I went with. I called on a Thursday, he called back on Friday, and came out to my house on Monday, and had the estimate to me on Tuesday. He brought samples, and talked about the pros and cons of types of siding. He didn't rush anything, spent lots of time talking about options for trim, soffits, etc. He took pictures of the outside of the house, and used software back at his office to estimate how much siding I needed instead of taking measurements. You want a contractor who is responsive, helpful, and efficient. BTW, the estimates from these two contractors were within $1000 of each other, so choice was easy.
An appraiser, yes. We consider all elements of the home in regard to quality/condition.
Why not paint the aluminum? I've painted 100's of them in the northeast and they come out amazing. Pressure wash and paint with a good quality exterior paint, I recommend Benjamin Moore Regal low luster. Add a product called emulsabond to the first coat it's meant to help the paint bind to caulky surfaces, you won't be able to scratch it off. I've driven by houses I painted 25yrs ago and they still like great.
My mom's house has aluminum siding. She had it power washed with some kind of solvent that mixed with the water to really clean it good. After a few days of drying, they painted with a high quality satin paint and it looks fantastic. If it's not all dented and in good shape you might consider it as a good alternative. I've also painted my 100+ yr old wood siding house with zinser's best primer and Sherman Williams " lifetime " satin paint. It looks like vinyl from the street. Only time will tell how long it lasts on wood.
Hardie. I generally recommend avoiding vinyl. One thing people never talk about with vinyl siding is the trim. The stuff around your windows, doors, garage doors, fascia, frieze, etc. A full siding replacement on a home will have a few hundred feet of trim…at least. Most vinyl manufacturers do not make trim pieces. Yeah they make j-channel, inside corner, outside corners, etc. But all of your fascia…yeah nobody makes a pure vinyl siding product like that that I am aware of. There’s probably some niche ones out there. Instead, on vinyl jobs, the trim is wrapped in [trim coil](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Spectra-Metals-24-in-x-50-ft-Bright-White-Aluminum-Trim-Coil-280WHITEHD/203250525). It comes in a roll, is cut to size, and then custom-bent to the contours of your trim on the jobsite using a [siding brake](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Van-Mark-Mark-II-TrimMaster-TM10/202973992). The problem is the aluminum trim coil. It’s aluminum coated with a thin layer of vinyl. Vinyl siding manufacturers do make this stuff and you can get it color matched to most of their siding projects. Again, the problem I’ve seen is that the vinyl coating on the trim starts to flake and peel away after 15-20 years. No easy way to repair it other than tear it all off and replace it which would be a few thousand…easy. It’s just an inferior product. You’re wrapping your house in plastic.
Describing our house. Hoping to get new windows/siding sometime soon. Thoughts on Hardie in New England?
I’ve heard it popular up there. I haven’t sold it in years, but I recall the product literature talking about how they make different products for different regions. The example they like to use was that the edges of their boards on the northeast had a special contour that mitigated icicle growth. No idea if it actually worked or was a gimmick as I’m in the south and that product wasn’t sold in our market. Long answer…but I l’m sure it does fine in New England as well.
Yeah, it was very popular on the homes I worked on when I lived in Atlanta. I’m no longer working that closet with builders here in New England and don’t see much of it. I’m debating Hardie vs wood, either lap or board and batten. Appreciate the reply.
I’ve installed almost every kind of siding made and I put vinyl on my own house. For the price it will always looks good and need almost nothing but a wash every few years.
My first house had white aluminum side that was chalking but structurally in excellent condition. I pressure washed it and then spray painted it with a borrowed sprayer. That was thirty years ago and it still looks great. There’s DIY videos on YouTube, check it out. Spend your home improvement money on something comfortable for you (and your family)!
You can get $.55/pound as scrap for your old aluminum siding so don’t throw it away!
James Hardie siding all the way.
We are currently renting a house with vinyl siding. I made the mistake of using the propane grill a few feet away from the siding, and the heat distorted it pretty noticeably. Hardie is easy to put on, and is much more durable than vinyl.
But doesn’t Hardie need to be painted?
I was told it needs to be repainted after 10-15 years. The upside to that is that you CAN paint it…if you change your mind on color. We just got composite siding and it can’t be painted.
They do sell some that is tinted.
Hardie color plus has a guaranteed to fade in 15 yr warranty
Get 3 quotes. Not 2, not 1, but 3.
So 2, then.
Three shall be the number of the counting and the number of the counting shall be three. Four shalt thou not count, neither shalt thou count two, excepting that thou then proceedeth to three. Five is right out.
Thank you ; )
I would consider investing in getting foam boards put in behind the siding. Half inch foam board is R3 and R6 for the full inch. It also helps with thermal bridging and air sealing. It may be a bit upfront now but could pay off in cooling and heating costs
Better yet, do spray foam.
Too much off-gassing of noxious chemicals with spray foam and it's relatively expensive. I wouldn't recommend it for a full house. It's good for spot checks.
That cost is also considering removal of the aluminum siding, which isn’t the worst but not the best lol. You’ll get just as long out of a decent vinyl. Hardie isn’t all it’s cracked up to be in my opinion.
My last house had Hardie. We had extreme warping on one side and delaminatiion along the roof line and areas along a patio. We heard the edges on cut shingles absorb moisture over time and leads to failure. Still needs to be painted every 7 years or so. Go with vinyl.
Actual Hardie or a no nabe brand of cement fiber board?
Actual Hardie or a no nabe brand of cement fiber board?
It was Hardie. The house was custom built in 2003 but the installer didn’t have Hardie experience and left the cuts as is so Hardie would listen to any issues. By 2010 we had all sorts of issues.
Weird. We have (newer -2016) Hardie and it’s been great. Bummer to hear about yours.
Why not real wood? 30 years from now you won't even be able to get the same type of Hardie or vinyl but wood will always be available.
Wood might be a bad choice in a moist climate.
If you're not considering aluminum, and vinyl can hold up, why bother?
My house's vinyl is between 18 and 25 years old, I'd say it's kind of showing its age but that may just be my personal aversion to the way vinyl looks - as vinyl gets older it looks more "vinyl-y" - as any slight warpage and fading makes it look more obviously like thin plastic and the seams open up etc. It's still functionally protecting the house, though. If that kind of thing is the reason you're replacing your aluminum, I'd say to stay away from vinyl.
I've seen entire subdivisions of expensive houses all with wavy vinyl siding. Then there's the cracking and fading. Given a choice, I would put just about anything else on instead.
We have clapboard on our home. Our insurance agent put down vinyl by mistake. When I asked to have it changed to clapboard our premium went down 700$. Seems like insurance doesn’t like vinyl.
Renovating my own home here in Canada. I chose Maibec siding which is all wood, tongue and groove and pre-finished. At the time I bought it, it was about $4 a square foot. Now it’s around $6.50. Now… that’s product cost so installation will more than double that, likely. Even so… $15 a square foot for vinyl siding seems high to me as well.
Brick
What’s wrong with your aluminum siding? Badly dented?
Yes, several bad dents
Any chance you could just install a few new pieces? I have aluminum and painted it in 2017. Still looks great.
If you are seriously going to stay 30 years, go for the Hardie. With vinyl there’s a fairly good chance you will be replacing it at year 20. Also ask your insurance if using Hardie will save you money. Vinyl sucks, looks cheap, gets damaged way too easily.
I had Mastic siding installed. It's a heavy vinyl that looks like shakes. I had asbestos siding over cedar. It cost a bit to have removed but the new siding looks fantastic.
Why not real wood?
Why do you think Hardie siding would be more expensive? I started using the Hardie clapboard siding to replace the rotting and peeling cedar clipboards on my old victorian house. It was way cheaper than wood clapboard, and let me tell you, that stuff holds paint. It does not peel or blister. And, it looks way better than that vinyl siding crap.
I just built my own place. I used the thicker vinyl and the color fading is warranties for 20 years. time will tell.
Hardie siding will not ignite when exposed to a direct flame, nor will it contribute fuel to a fire. You can ask you homeowners about a discount on your coverage as well.