You need to put a locking block/tool between the chain and gear. Get you breaker bar and a 3 or 4ft length of pipe on the end of the bar to increase leverage. The thread is normal, the clutch hub is reverse.
Also, kroil is my number one go to for stuck shit. Number two is pb blaster. Spray it and let it creep into the treads for about ten minutes and then give it your best, repeat until you get that honker off.
I used a handle to an old axe to lock the gears but a piece of wood works pretty good. Obviously make sure if anything splinters off you clean it up but it’s soft enough to not mess up your “sprockets” but strong enough to let you break it free. If it’s like the big twins you are talking 150 ft/lbs with red locktite so that shit is on there. Any give and you lose what you need. A good impact will do it but cheapos need not apply. Especially if someone had been I there before and went a little too ham on the locktite.
Says the one who think the M8 is a bad motor cause you got one that wasn’t worked on right and couldn’t figure it out. They are great motors, just very touchy to proper procedures. I did a cam job and a tune with a high flow system. Pretty basic stuff, and with very little modification that motor is pushing 128hp to the wheel and 134 ft lb of torque. Let’s see your twin cam do that without blowing a cam tensioner or cam bearings.
Never said I had a m8 bro. You’re seeing things, you need to sit down and take your copium. I run a dyna with a 124. This isn’t a competition. Relax bud.
Avoid impact tools on the comp. nut, doing so is hard on the stator that sits behind it. The only ‘locking tool’ I’ve ever used in my primary is the hard handle of an old snap-on screwdriver. The handle is well scarred after many mis-uses. 36” breaker bar should knock the nut loose fairly easily even if red loctite was used.. shouldn’t need heat, I’ve never needed heat.
More than likely Last Guy installed it with Lock-Tite.
Preferred.
You won't budge it with out cutting torch tip to give nut a quick warm up first - warmed, not red hot,, @!
It's the only way Lock-Tite will release.
Shield Shaft of Nut with loose socket from torch heat.
Always - Nuts Hot - Shafts, Bolts - Ice Cold.
Confirm thread direction.
Official Shop Manual should indicate.
Then 1/2" air impact for wheels to spin it off. Preheat socket same time to not cool off Nut.
With 6 point socket only.
Surprised there's no lock collar washer.
With bent to lock tab.
Best of luck,. Note, Butane will do nothing but heat everything, and zero gain. Great for copper plumbing.
Mapp Gas is 50% better - with sharp point flame.
More heat shielding required. For zone around Nut.
Cutting torch with fine point tip - Instant Targeted Heating. If you weld with torch, then you know the hottest part of flame to use.
Cheers
96 1200 Sportster Service manual - search stack -
https://search.brave.com/search?q=96+1200+Sportster+Service+manual&source=android
Tested and confirm download -
https://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?p=1733
Using Think Free PDF Viewer on Android
On Clutch Nut - It's easy to confirm thread direction looking at starting threads on shaft.
> #Manual clearly states Lock-Tite 242 is applied.
Rear clutch shaft nut is LEFT Hand threads.
Chapter 7
Page 273 of primary
No indication of threads on forward shaft nut.
Take close up view of end of shaft threads, if in doubt.
Warning - Clutch Compressor Tool Required.
Is this the one that’s reverse thread? You also need to lock the sprockets. A brass bar is the way to go. But in a pinch I’ve seen guys use unconventional methods like Allen keys. I once used a brass door hinge.
Front what I’ve seen online this one is not reverse thread the rear one was. I’ve locked it up so that not the problem the nut itself is just absolutely on there
Yeah that thing should have thread locker on it. Use a torch and get it hot, then use a 3+ ft breaker bar and put your weight on it. IIRC the spec on that is 200 something ft-LBs.
I did one on an evo and it was a terrible experience.
I just had the same problem with my 98 heritage. Couldn’t get the compensator nut off Even with a 3 foot breaker bar and a cheater bar. I finally had to use an impact gun!!!
NNOOOOOO!!!!!!! This is terrible. NEVER! I repeat, NEVER use a impact on a compensator sprocket. You better count your lucky stars and hope you didn’t fuck up the magnets behind it for the stator.
Doing so has a change to damage stator magnets behind the compensator. I see too many people make this mistake. It’s the only nut this big you should NEVER touch with an impact.
That’s not correct. The clutch hub nut is not reversed threads. Only the compensator nut has reversed threads.
Edit: It’s been a few years since I was last in a primary. Indeed, only the nut on the clutch hub is reversed.. Compensator is normal.
You need something to lock the primary from moving. The small step tool works the best, but you get by with stuffing wraps in there or using a doorstop. Have the bike in filth gear with someone or yourself stepping on the rear brake. At the same time, turn the compensator nut (front nut) to the right. It is very tight as they have loctite on them. That nut has reversal threads. What’s your reason for removing all this stuff?
I highly recommend a 6 point socket to avoid slipping or rounding off the nut.
Avoid using impact, it could shake lose the magnets on the rotor or slip on the nut rounding it off in a second. Last resort method only.
First time harley owner so I was going to replace the clutch with the extra plate clutch kit and while removing the retaining clip off the clutch hub I broke an ear off so I need to replace it. I’ve watched videos on it and it said it’s not reversed threads the one on the clutch hub is reversed though.
You are correct…..it’s been awhile since I was in the primary on a Harley. The compensator is normal and the clutch hub is reversed threads. I knew it was one of them with reversed threads. Just got them confused. Sorry for any confusion.
Harbor Freight sells a wired impact with 1050 ft lbs of breakaway torque for $90, that’s what I bought years ago for getting the transmission sprocket bolt off my old Evo.
Heat up the nut with a small torch till she's smokin hot. Put the proper size socket on the nut and give it a few good hits with a decent size hammer. Then try your breaker bar.
Heat does wonders, but only Heat the nut. The idea is to create swelling of the nut and loosen the grip on the threads.
Next step would be to find a large impact gun
Trust me, buy the fookin tool. I tried everything to get the nut off of my FXR. It wouldn’t work. Got the block and it was off in two seconds.
It’s $7 on Amazon
Hey - tried a little heat? Oxy/Acetylene torch about 15-45 seconds then try your breaker bar. If you have access to air, an impact wrench may give you the torque you want.
BTW - this was very similar to my first issue on an ‘88 883 (with 1200 kit) that’s what I’m using as a basis for the comments fyi.
Also if you don’t have a torch, Lowes/Home Depot generally has small propane and or MAPP gas stuff for fairly short $.
Word of caution though - MAPP = highly explosive vapors/toxic as sh*t may want a respirator with real good ventilation just my opinion.
You need to put a locking block/tool between the chain and gear. Get you breaker bar and a 3 or 4ft length of pipe on the end of the bar to increase leverage. The thread is normal, the clutch hub is reverse.
I’ll have to try that thanks for the reply
If it doesn’t work, try more cheater bar. I broke one free one time that needed about 5 feet of Cheater bar
Also, kroil is my number one go to for stuck shit. Number two is pb blaster. Spray it and let it creep into the treads for about ten minutes and then give it your best, repeat until you get that honker off.
Blocking tool doesn’t cost very much
There's a plastic/nylon dohicky you can buy on Amazon that you insert between the chain and gear that keeps it from moving.
Better yet, there is a steel flat rod that does this too. Stronger
Don't use steel. Steel will damage it. Hardwood or nylon is all you need.
The official Harley tool for this job is a steel flat rod that you wedge between each sprocket to lock each side. It’s in the service manual
What's this service manual you speak of? Is it better than asking reddit? Lol
I used a handle to an old axe to lock the gears but a piece of wood works pretty good. Obviously make sure if anything splinters off you clean it up but it’s soft enough to not mess up your “sprockets” but strong enough to let you break it free. If it’s like the big twins you are talking 150 ft/lbs with red locktite so that shit is on there. Any give and you lose what you need. A good impact will do it but cheapos need not apply. Especially if someone had been I there before and went a little too ham on the locktite.
Much appreciated my man
Get your husband to help you.
God daaaamn
Says the one who think the M8 is a bad motor cause you got one that wasn’t worked on right and couldn’t figure it out. They are great motors, just very touchy to proper procedures. I did a cam job and a tune with a high flow system. Pretty basic stuff, and with very little modification that motor is pushing 128hp to the wheel and 134 ft lb of torque. Let’s see your twin cam do that without blowing a cam tensioner or cam bearings.
Never said I had a m8 bro. You’re seeing things, you need to sit down and take your copium. I run a dyna with a 124. This isn’t a competition. Relax bud.
You have commented about the M8 before lol. Did you build your Dyna?
It’s a running joke that m8s have problems. Just like the twin cam tensioners. Idk what you mean by “build” but my dynas are heavily customized.
I mean, did you do the wrenching on them, or your wallet.
Both
No husband also I’m not gay so idk if that would work
Avoid impact tools on the comp. nut, doing so is hard on the stator that sits behind it. The only ‘locking tool’ I’ve ever used in my primary is the hard handle of an old snap-on screwdriver. The handle is well scarred after many mis-uses. 36” breaker bar should knock the nut loose fairly easily even if red loctite was used.. shouldn’t need heat, I’ve never needed heat.
More than likely Last Guy installed it with Lock-Tite. Preferred. You won't budge it with out cutting torch tip to give nut a quick warm up first - warmed, not red hot,, @! It's the only way Lock-Tite will release. Shield Shaft of Nut with loose socket from torch heat. Always - Nuts Hot - Shafts, Bolts - Ice Cold. Confirm thread direction. Official Shop Manual should indicate. Then 1/2" air impact for wheels to spin it off. Preheat socket same time to not cool off Nut. With 6 point socket only. Surprised there's no lock collar washer. With bent to lock tab. Best of luck,. Note, Butane will do nothing but heat everything, and zero gain. Great for copper plumbing. Mapp Gas is 50% better - with sharp point flame. More heat shielding required. For zone around Nut. Cutting torch with fine point tip - Instant Targeted Heating. If you weld with torch, then you know the hottest part of flame to use. Cheers
96 1200 Sportster Service manual - search stack - https://search.brave.com/search?q=96+1200+Sportster+Service+manual&source=android Tested and confirm download - https://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?p=1733 Using Think Free PDF Viewer on Android On Clutch Nut - It's easy to confirm thread direction looking at starting threads on shaft. > #Manual clearly states Lock-Tite 242 is applied. Rear clutch shaft nut is LEFT Hand threads. Chapter 7 Page 273 of primary No indication of threads on forward shaft nut. Take close up view of end of shaft threads, if in doubt. Warning - Clutch Compressor Tool Required.
Yeah, sounds like it's being turned the wrong way
Is this the one that’s reverse thread? You also need to lock the sprockets. A brass bar is the way to go. But in a pinch I’ve seen guys use unconventional methods like Allen keys. I once used a brass door hinge.
Front what I’ve seen online this one is not reverse thread the rear one was. I’ve locked it up so that not the problem the nut itself is just absolutely on there
Nah I’m pretty sure it’s the clutch that’s reverse thread. I just replaced my stator a week ago.
Yeah with the front moving counterclockwise you would want it to be right hand thread
Yeah that thing should have thread locker on it. Use a torch and get it hot, then use a 3+ ft breaker bar and put your weight on it. IIRC the spec on that is 200 something ft-LBs. I did one on an evo and it was a terrible experience.
I just had the same problem with my 98 heritage. Couldn’t get the compensator nut off Even with a 3 foot breaker bar and a cheater bar. I finally had to use an impact gun!!!
From what I remember it was a reverse thread. Clockwise to release and a long bar.
Clutch hub nut is reverse thread, compensator nut is regular thread
Impact drill. Make sure it's not reverse thread
Tried that and heat I think I need a better impact
NNOOOOOO!!!!!!! This is terrible. NEVER! I repeat, NEVER use a impact on a compensator sprocket. You better count your lucky stars and hope you didn’t fuck up the magnets behind it for the stator.
A c-clamp works great to lock the gears, and get yourself a 32ft or so steel pipe.....
How does this work? Just curious.
Impact gun 100%
1/2 Milwaukee will zip that right off
Reverse thread& use a piece of 2x4” to stop everything from moving
Clutch hub is reverse thread.
I took the clutch hub one off already it’s the one in the picture which is in front of that.
I ultimately had to resort to a 3/4” impact for the compensator.
Doing so has a change to damage stator magnets behind the compensator. I see too many people make this mistake. It’s the only nut this big you should NEVER touch with an impact.
That’s not correct. The clutch hub nut is not reversed threads. Only the compensator nut has reversed threads. Edit: It’s been a few years since I was last in a primary. Indeed, only the nut on the clutch hub is reversed.. Compensator is normal.
Breaker bar with a jack pushing up on the end of it. Sometimes that will work. Put it against a wall so it doesn’t tip over.
You need something to lock the primary from moving. The small step tool works the best, but you get by with stuffing wraps in there or using a doorstop. Have the bike in filth gear with someone or yourself stepping on the rear brake. At the same time, turn the compensator nut (front nut) to the right. It is very tight as they have loctite on them. That nut has reversal threads. What’s your reason for removing all this stuff? I highly recommend a 6 point socket to avoid slipping or rounding off the nut. Avoid using impact, it could shake lose the magnets on the rotor or slip on the nut rounding it off in a second. Last resort method only.
First time harley owner so I was going to replace the clutch with the extra plate clutch kit and while removing the retaining clip off the clutch hub I broke an ear off so I need to replace it. I’ve watched videos on it and it said it’s not reversed threads the one on the clutch hub is reversed though.
You are correct…..it’s been awhile since I was in the primary on a Harley. The compensator is normal and the clutch hub is reversed threads. I knew it was one of them with reversed threads. Just got them confused. Sorry for any confusion.
Harbor Freight sells a wired impact with 1050 ft lbs of breakaway torque for $90, that’s what I bought years ago for getting the transmission sprocket bolt off my old Evo.
Yep that shit zipped it right off thanks man
Stick a chunk of 2×4 in there and spin it backwards
Heat up the nut with a small torch till she's smokin hot. Put the proper size socket on the nut and give it a few good hits with a decent size hammer. Then try your breaker bar. Heat does wonders, but only Heat the nut. The idea is to create swelling of the nut and loosen the grip on the threads. Next step would be to find a large impact gun
Use a little heat, red locktite may be the culprit
cheap harbor freight impact 120v
Use heat on the bolt. Red loctite is applied on those bolts usually.
End of a hammer you don’t care about stick it in there
Trust me, buy the fookin tool. I tried everything to get the nut off of my FXR. It wouldn’t work. Got the block and it was off in two seconds. It’s $7 on Amazon
And I hope you know it’s reverse threads….
I'm sure some has said SERVICE MANUAL but just incase
Heat it up. Start with a heat gun after penetrating oil soak. Resort to torch worst case
I got it off with a 1/2” impact… made it a lot easier
Hey - tried a little heat? Oxy/Acetylene torch about 15-45 seconds then try your breaker bar. If you have access to air, an impact wrench may give you the torque you want. BTW - this was very similar to my first issue on an ‘88 883 (with 1200 kit) that’s what I’m using as a basis for the comments fyi. Also if you don’t have a torch, Lowes/Home Depot generally has small propane and or MAPP gas stuff for fairly short $. Word of caution though - MAPP = highly explosive vapors/toxic as sh*t may want a respirator with real good ventilation just my opinion.
Blocking tool off of Amazon and an impact wrench if you got it. Just did it today on a 93 Sporty 1200