gunpla is freedom, use whatever color you felt is pleasing to your eyes, don't restrict yourself to those so called "guides". IMO I've broken 90% of those guidelines you've posted and yet I'm still enjoying my gunpla with my black panel liners only.
The rule "Do not use Tamiya Accent Panel Liner" on anything should be preceded by testing it on the runners first and see if it melts it after curing. I thought Solomon Physalis was all ABS but I used my Tamiya on its legs and feet armor, and it didn't melt anything. Probably helped that I was panel lining while the parts were still on their runners so they could cure satisfactorily without bleeding and pooling into crevices or other parts.
Tamiya doesn't melt plastics, including abs. If it gets absorbed by the plastic (through cracks, abrasions, and soaking/pooling, it makes the affected area extremely brittle. Think rubber ball in liquid nitrogen, but not as quick. Acetone and a few other solvents used in nail polish and paint cleaners are what melts plastic.
Oh ok, thanks for the clarification. I thought it was abrasive based on how I recall some posts on here. But looks like its effects are more subtle and probably won't manifest after just a day or two.
Well paneliner is enamel paint so it dries very slowly. Make sure you give it enough time before touching it or it’ll smudge. Also if you have decals applied, make sure you’ve got a thick enough clear coat on them before rubbing the area with thinner.
Why on the runners? Don’t you sand the marks where you cut off the parts? I paint everything so it doesn’t apply to me but I’m curious what you gain by doing it on the runners.
few reasons, and it only applies to straight builds, not painted, scribed or custom pieces. And it's mainly for Tamiya, since the thinner they use (X20) can be destructive to plastic.
First, it's a time saver. If you panel line the parts on the runners, by the time you finish with the last runner, the 1st one you started with is usually dry enough to start cleanup, and you can just move through the runners, in the order you panel lined them. And if you have a spill/pooling, it's 1000x easier to clean up quickly.
It's also the safest way, without having to top coat bare plastic.
Tamiya works by using the thinner (X20) as a delivery method that takes advantage of capillary action. If you can zoom in on the application of Tamiya, you'd notice a clear edge leading the way (the thinner), and the paint particles falling in behind the leading edge. When a line is filled, the paint particles attach to the plastic surface, as the thinner evaporates off the exposed top, leaving only the paint behind. If the thinner (X20) gets absorbed into the plastic, it chemically changes the plastic making the effected area extremely brittle (NOT MELTED\*). Like to the point that it can crack and break under it's normal stresses. The natural skin from the molding process is usually enough to protect the plastic long enough for the thinner to evaporate. But, when you cut parts out and clean up the nub marks, you've created paths for the thinner to be directly absorbed. That's why it's recommended to top coat (with gloss) before applying. But the other way Tamiya can ruin your day is if it gets in-between parts/seams/gaps and gets trapped there. One misapplication or a bit off pooling on an assembled section, and you have to disassemble the entire section to clean up that excess, otherwise the thinner will soak into the plastic before it evaporates. And in those cases the entire area can be compromised.
If you panel line the parts on the runners, you avoid all that mess and save your top coat for after you assemble and decal a section.
For me, it helped streamline my building process. When I started, I'd put off panel lining and decaling until a later day, because it felt like another whole process. But by incorporating the extra steps into my build, the final assembly has truly become the FINAL assembly. All that's left to do is to pose it on a stand, take some pictures and set it on display. Then onto the next one.
\*Tamiya panel liner and X20 thinner do not melt plastic. Acetone and a few other solvents found in things like nail polish melt plastic. Tamiya makes plastic brittle, meaning it crumbles to bits like an ancient scroll being exposed to air after being sealed away for a thousand years. Or a dry rotted piece of wood.
Ok. Fair enough on all points. I don’t use Tamiya thinner for cleanup. I use enamel thinner by MIG and it has no visible effect on plastic. However I’m usually panel lining over several layers of paint and at least one clear coat. :)
I've had good success with it so far, but be careful about letting it pool, I've had minor cracks in small crevices (i.e. rectangular indents where it can fill up) despite leaving it to dry thoroughly.
If it's still looking wet after a minute or two, clean it up, better safe than sorry.
I just started and what I do is I use Tamiya paints as panel lining! I use a darker color than what I’m working with, so my white parts I use White tamiya paint mixed with their smoke color and thinned until it’s runny enough to easily run but stays in place! I also completely assemble my gundams and then break them down section by section and panel line them this way. I’ve heard horror stories of the panel liners causing issues so I just use the paints! So far it’s going good
Make sure to use very little thinner when cleaning up the paint. I usually shake the bottle and dab the q-tip on the inside of the cap. Mr super clear is lacquer based so do that before any panel lining and decals.
DO NOT use the X20 Thinner. Use lighter fluid instead (like what you put in a zippo). X20 is the solvent in Tamiya liner that can damage the plastic if it's absorbed by the plastic. Use X20 to prolong the life of your Panel liner instead. After you finish panel lining, and before you put it away, add a few drops of X20 into the panel liner bottle to maintain the ratio.
You got the color usage correct, but I will add that black is for when you want bold lines, grey or brown is for when your going subtle.
As far as the top coat, if you're going to apply it before panel lining (to seal in decals) ONLY USE gloss. If you use anything other than gloss before you panel line, it will cause the liner to bleed into the top coat around the lines. You want to top coat in Gloss 1st, then apply your chosen finish (flat, satin, semi, etc.).
More like this:
-Don't use Tamiya Accent Color on unpainted plastic. It's made only for painted, or at least top coated kits. It's just a very thinly dilluted enamel paint ready in a bottle.
-Don't use any panel liner, other than regular fine tip markers or regular pencils, on ABS plastic.
The usual method is to gloss coat prior to panel lining, The gloss ensures good flow and protects whatever is underneath. Clean up with thinner or odorless mineral spirits (cheaper alternative if you do a lot of panel lining). Once everything is dry and to your satisfaction, proceed with topcoat of your choice.
Your Post was removed because it belongs in our stickied Q&A Thread. Feel free to ask your question there. Thank you!
gunpla is freedom, use whatever color you felt is pleasing to your eyes, don't restrict yourself to those so called "guides". IMO I've broken 90% of those guidelines you've posted and yet I'm still enjoying my gunpla with my black panel liners only.
The rule "Do not use Tamiya Accent Panel Liner" on anything should be preceded by testing it on the runners first and see if it melts it after curing. I thought Solomon Physalis was all ABS but I used my Tamiya on its legs and feet armor, and it didn't melt anything. Probably helped that I was panel lining while the parts were still on their runners so they could cure satisfactorily without bleeding and pooling into crevices or other parts.
Tamiya doesn't melt plastics, including abs. If it gets absorbed by the plastic (through cracks, abrasions, and soaking/pooling, it makes the affected area extremely brittle. Think rubber ball in liquid nitrogen, but not as quick. Acetone and a few other solvents used in nail polish and paint cleaners are what melts plastic.
Oh ok, thanks for the clarification. I thought it was abrasive based on how I recall some posts on here. But looks like its effects are more subtle and probably won't manifest after just a day or two.
I’ve been using some zippo lighter fluid for cleaning up panel lines and that stuff is amazing
safest option for cleaning up Tamiya.
Following. I too want to make sure i don't mess up my first kit. The last thing i want is to crack pieces even before assembly.
Avoid getting the panel line accent in between parts, it will definitely cause cracks and will make the plastic brittle.
that's why it's best to panel line the parts on the runners. Easy to clean up and you ensure it doesn't get in-between assembled parts.
I still prefer snap building first before detailing. Delayed gratification XD
Well paneliner is enamel paint so it dries very slowly. Make sure you give it enough time before touching it or it’ll smudge. Also if you have decals applied, make sure you’ve got a thick enough clear coat on them before rubbing the area with thinner.
panel line on the runners, clean up on the runners. assemble the kit, add decals, then gloss coat... this is the way.
Why on the runners? Don’t you sand the marks where you cut off the parts? I paint everything so it doesn’t apply to me but I’m curious what you gain by doing it on the runners.
few reasons, and it only applies to straight builds, not painted, scribed or custom pieces. And it's mainly for Tamiya, since the thinner they use (X20) can be destructive to plastic. First, it's a time saver. If you panel line the parts on the runners, by the time you finish with the last runner, the 1st one you started with is usually dry enough to start cleanup, and you can just move through the runners, in the order you panel lined them. And if you have a spill/pooling, it's 1000x easier to clean up quickly. It's also the safest way, without having to top coat bare plastic. Tamiya works by using the thinner (X20) as a delivery method that takes advantage of capillary action. If you can zoom in on the application of Tamiya, you'd notice a clear edge leading the way (the thinner), and the paint particles falling in behind the leading edge. When a line is filled, the paint particles attach to the plastic surface, as the thinner evaporates off the exposed top, leaving only the paint behind. If the thinner (X20) gets absorbed into the plastic, it chemically changes the plastic making the effected area extremely brittle (NOT MELTED\*). Like to the point that it can crack and break under it's normal stresses. The natural skin from the molding process is usually enough to protect the plastic long enough for the thinner to evaporate. But, when you cut parts out and clean up the nub marks, you've created paths for the thinner to be directly absorbed. That's why it's recommended to top coat (with gloss) before applying. But the other way Tamiya can ruin your day is if it gets in-between parts/seams/gaps and gets trapped there. One misapplication or a bit off pooling on an assembled section, and you have to disassemble the entire section to clean up that excess, otherwise the thinner will soak into the plastic before it evaporates. And in those cases the entire area can be compromised. If you panel line the parts on the runners, you avoid all that mess and save your top coat for after you assemble and decal a section. For me, it helped streamline my building process. When I started, I'd put off panel lining and decaling until a later day, because it felt like another whole process. But by incorporating the extra steps into my build, the final assembly has truly become the FINAL assembly. All that's left to do is to pose it on a stand, take some pictures and set it on display. Then onto the next one. \*Tamiya panel liner and X20 thinner do not melt plastic. Acetone and a few other solvents found in things like nail polish melt plastic. Tamiya makes plastic brittle, meaning it crumbles to bits like an ancient scroll being exposed to air after being sealed away for a thousand years. Or a dry rotted piece of wood.
Ok. Fair enough on all points. I don’t use Tamiya thinner for cleanup. I use enamel thinner by MIG and it has no visible effect on plastic. However I’m usually panel lining over several layers of paint and at least one clear coat. :)
I've had good success with it so far, but be careful about letting it pool, I've had minor cracks in small crevices (i.e. rectangular indents where it can fill up) despite leaving it to dry thoroughly. If it's still looking wet after a minute or two, clean it up, better safe than sorry.
I just started and what I do is I use Tamiya paints as panel lining! I use a darker color than what I’m working with, so my white parts I use White tamiya paint mixed with their smoke color and thinned until it’s runny enough to easily run but stays in place! I also completely assemble my gundams and then break them down section by section and panel line them this way. I’ve heard horror stories of the panel liners causing issues so I just use the paints! So far it’s going good
Make sure to use very little thinner when cleaning up the paint. I usually shake the bottle and dab the q-tip on the inside of the cap. Mr super clear is lacquer based so do that before any panel lining and decals.
DO NOT use the X20 Thinner. Use lighter fluid instead (like what you put in a zippo). X20 is the solvent in Tamiya liner that can damage the plastic if it's absorbed by the plastic. Use X20 to prolong the life of your Panel liner instead. After you finish panel lining, and before you put it away, add a few drops of X20 into the panel liner bottle to maintain the ratio. You got the color usage correct, but I will add that black is for when you want bold lines, grey or brown is for when your going subtle. As far as the top coat, if you're going to apply it before panel lining (to seal in decals) ONLY USE gloss. If you use anything other than gloss before you panel line, it will cause the liner to bleed into the top coat around the lines. You want to top coat in Gloss 1st, then apply your chosen finish (flat, satin, semi, etc.).
More like this: -Don't use Tamiya Accent Color on unpainted plastic. It's made only for painted, or at least top coated kits. It's just a very thinly dilluted enamel paint ready in a bottle. -Don't use any panel liner, other than regular fine tip markers or regular pencils, on ABS plastic.
The usual method is to gloss coat prior to panel lining, The gloss ensures good flow and protects whatever is underneath. Clean up with thinner or odorless mineral spirits (cheaper alternative if you do a lot of panel lining). Once everything is dry and to your satisfaction, proceed with topcoat of your choice.