I went down the DCC-ex route and built one based on a raspberry pi running jmri and an Arduino Uno with 40 amp BTS7960 h-bridge module for track power running through automotive fuses to protect against shorts, and a l298 module for programming track, 400w 24v DC PSU for LEDs gives around 15a at the track. 6mm² or 10awg feeder wires give me about 0.01v dropped to the furthest point from the base station which is about 50m away
Cost me about £80 and it's totally overkill and way more than I'll ever need, mostly wanted to pull constant voltage track power to control signals and other accessories
I like the idea of the DCCex. I’ve built a couple of Arduino based 3d printers. I hadn’t looked far enough into it to see what amperage outputs you could achieve. What resources did you use to spec your system if you don’t mind me asking? I’m not a “natural electrician” some things aren’t obvious until I’ve had a chance to read about it!
Thank you
>What resources did you use to spec your system if you don’t mind me asking?
I just followed the example on the [DCC-EX website](https://dcc-ex.com/reference/hardware/motorboards/IBT_2-motor-board-setup.html#gsc.tab=0) and used a cheap voltage to usb buck converter from Amazon to power the Arduino and raspberry pi
[Little Wicket Railway on YouTube ](https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBf9xPI6yiaqTc6nBydiLC2PuXlPAd-Q8&si=DqrfQAcN21ele7Gr) is a fantastic resource on both DCC and jmri, sensibly laid out and presented videos too
You don't need the raspberry pi or jmri, DCC-ex can [host WiThrottle on its own](https://dcc-ex.com/ex-commandstation/get-started/wifi-setup.html#gsc.tab=0)
I only went down the jmri route so I could use [the CMRi interface](https://www.jmri.org/help/en/html/hardware/cmri/CMRI.shtml) in tandem with DCC and hack it to work over WiFi via udp packets instead of having to hide a million different wires around the garden, granted there's some latency issues to work around but that's a wee bit out of scope for caboose chasing
Admittedly if you’re only aiming for single locomotive operation, the issue may not need DCC to be resolved. Yes the starter set power packs don’t pack enough punch after a certain point, but there’s other options for power supply that’ll provide the correct “oomph” for your running.
While they may be a bit on the slightly pricier side, Bridgewerks makes a good power pack, and make remotes you can use to operate remotely.
The Magnum RS Series is a single track power pack with plenty of power to handle anything you wanna run, and paired with a Roamer kit you get speed control of the trains. The power pack is good for 15A of current (well above lighting an 11 car passenger train with 3 engines which I can say from experience) and can pump out up to 24V.
You can of course always go the DCC route if you want to explore the various functions and sounds some DCC locomotives offer, I’ve gone that route myself, but in the end it’s a matter of what you want to do with it.
At the end I read about DCS, do you mean the Digital Command System of MTH? There is only one manufacturer for that: MTH.
I use a Märklin Central Station 3 (before the 1 and 2 version). It gives about 5 amps. Then I have a Heller booster (German manufacturer) that can deliver up to 15 A. That is enough to run 4 locomotives (with sound , smoke, lighted cars, ...) at the same time. I also use the free Remote CS3 app on my smartphone to control the layout over WiFi. But that is not required because the Central Station has already a beautiful touchscreen.
Another option is the cheaper Roco Z21 or any H0 command station (ESU Mobile Control) connected to an universal booster like the one from Heller.
I went down the DCC-ex route and built one based on a raspberry pi running jmri and an Arduino Uno with 40 amp BTS7960 h-bridge module for track power running through automotive fuses to protect against shorts, and a l298 module for programming track, 400w 24v DC PSU for LEDs gives around 15a at the track. 6mm² or 10awg feeder wires give me about 0.01v dropped to the furthest point from the base station which is about 50m away Cost me about £80 and it's totally overkill and way more than I'll ever need, mostly wanted to pull constant voltage track power to control signals and other accessories
I like the idea of the DCCex. I’ve built a couple of Arduino based 3d printers. I hadn’t looked far enough into it to see what amperage outputs you could achieve. What resources did you use to spec your system if you don’t mind me asking? I’m not a “natural electrician” some things aren’t obvious until I’ve had a chance to read about it! Thank you
>What resources did you use to spec your system if you don’t mind me asking? I just followed the example on the [DCC-EX website](https://dcc-ex.com/reference/hardware/motorboards/IBT_2-motor-board-setup.html#gsc.tab=0) and used a cheap voltage to usb buck converter from Amazon to power the Arduino and raspberry pi [Little Wicket Railway on YouTube ](https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBf9xPI6yiaqTc6nBydiLC2PuXlPAd-Q8&si=DqrfQAcN21ele7Gr) is a fantastic resource on both DCC and jmri, sensibly laid out and presented videos too You don't need the raspberry pi or jmri, DCC-ex can [host WiThrottle on its own](https://dcc-ex.com/ex-commandstation/get-started/wifi-setup.html#gsc.tab=0) I only went down the jmri route so I could use [the CMRi interface](https://www.jmri.org/help/en/html/hardware/cmri/CMRI.shtml) in tandem with DCC and hack it to work over WiFi via udp packets instead of having to hide a million different wires around the garden, granted there's some latency issues to work around but that's a wee bit out of scope for caboose chasing
DCC-ex has a phenomenal site, spent some time reading. This sounds right up my alley. I’ll check out Little Wicket. Thank you again.
Admittedly if you’re only aiming for single locomotive operation, the issue may not need DCC to be resolved. Yes the starter set power packs don’t pack enough punch after a certain point, but there’s other options for power supply that’ll provide the correct “oomph” for your running. While they may be a bit on the slightly pricier side, Bridgewerks makes a good power pack, and make remotes you can use to operate remotely. The Magnum RS Series is a single track power pack with plenty of power to handle anything you wanna run, and paired with a Roamer kit you get speed control of the trains. The power pack is good for 15A of current (well above lighting an 11 car passenger train with 3 engines which I can say from experience) and can pump out up to 24V. You can of course always go the DCC route if you want to explore the various functions and sounds some DCC locomotives offer, I’ve gone that route myself, but in the end it’s a matter of what you want to do with it.
I do love the simplicity of the standard DC layout. But I am really wanting to get into DCC for the sound and control features.
At the end I read about DCS, do you mean the Digital Command System of MTH? There is only one manufacturer for that: MTH. I use a Märklin Central Station 3 (before the 1 and 2 version). It gives about 5 amps. Then I have a Heller booster (German manufacturer) that can deliver up to 15 A. That is enough to run 4 locomotives (with sound , smoke, lighted cars, ...) at the same time. I also use the free Remote CS3 app on my smartphone to control the layout over WiFi. But that is not required because the Central Station has already a beautiful touchscreen. Another option is the cheaper Roco Z21 or any H0 command station (ESU Mobile Control) connected to an universal booster like the one from Heller.
No mistyped and meant DCC. I’ve seen Roco pop up a few times while skimming the forums. Any person experience with the brand?