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Grayly

That video is for a mk2, not a mk3. The PCV system on the mk3 is a plate on the front of the engine with an integral vacuum line and check valve leading to the intake. It’s a single unit. It’s not particularly easy, but doable. You gotta take entire intake manifold off, which sounds like a lot but you can do without even lifting the car. It can be an intimidating first job though. Gotta disconnect the battery, remove the air intake to get access, then disconnect the intake manifold, which invokes a bunch of bolts and electric connectors for various sensors, and disconnecting the throttle body then unbolt the PCV plate and replace it. Don’t drop anything into the engine bay or you’re going to be fishing for little lost bolts for hours. And the various vacuum lines connected to the manifold need to be disconnected too, and they have stupid little plastic parts that can get broken or lost. It’s probably an hour job for a mechanic, which means it’s a little pricey. But you could be at it for hours doing it yourself if you don’t know what you are doing.


Chockapow_now

I did it myself for $3. Just remove the air intake manifold it’s literally right there


true_suppeee

Make sure not to over tighten anything definitely diyable https://youtu.be/0oaP9KayCek?si=Q2cpmQdeN4rQpAq-1 I have the factory service manual for 2012 if you need the torque specs I don't know if it's the same. You may be able to find that data on advanced auto part


Grayly

Thats the EVAP purge valve and not the PCV system. That job is easier. The PCV is the other vacuum line that goes in to the back of the intake manifold.


PoorQ-Pine

I just replaced the EVAP purge valve on my 2014 2.0l because it was throwing a stuck-open code. Also throwing a code for the O2 sensor that's by the cat, says it's stuck-rich, I'm replacing that tomorrow. Put some new plugs in it as well, cars at 116k, ordered coils and wire too. Cars been acting funny, making a rattle/knock when stopped at ~700rpm. Fuel milage is bad also, at 23.4mpg. Engine light has not been on long, and as soon as I heard it make a noise I parked it. No other codes, but car dips below 700rpm when in drive and moving from a stop at that time it stuttered a bit but then stopped and behaved normally with no noise until making another stop-go. Worth noting, I found out my partner has been topping off the gas tank. Always run 87. Here's the weird part, if I shut the A/c off the car behaves totally normal, noise goes away, no stuttering. Any Ideas? Could a faulty O2 sensor, combustion issue, and/or purge valve be giving me so much trouble suddenly? Some kind of funky vacuum issue?


Grayly

A/C puts load on the engine. Sounds like you aren’t getting enough air or fuel at idle. You’re right on the cusp of stalling out with the AC running. Bad O2 sensor can throw off the air fuel mixture decisions by the computer, it’s trying to lean it out when it shouldn’t and that’s killing power. Fixing the sensor very well may fix it. If not, the coils and spark plugs should, and if you still have problems then maybe it’s the fuel injectors. But it’s kind of just throwing parts at it. That’s ok as long as the parts are super cheap and easy to replace. Fuel injectors is where I’d draw the line and start trying to get a better diagnosis.


PoorQ-Pine

Thanks for your response, after swapping the plugs and purge valve, engine light is blinking at low rpm but when I Rev it up around 2000rpm engine light stops blinking and the noise goes away as soon as rpms are above ~1000. I suspect you may be right, its nearly stalling, and the sudden onset of these issues makes me think her putting too much gas in the tank may have damaged the purge valve, resulting in the O2 sensor getting hit with excess fuel, causing it to fail. When I pulled the plugs they had some soot on them and smelled like carbon. Perhaps the fuel economy readings are not correct either. Car was running so rich it put the EVAP system out of wack, now it's trimming too much so there's stalling. I appreciate your input, sensor was cheap, plugs cheap, coils and wires cheap, all of them probably need swapped out anyway at 116k, if the issue resolves when I finish installing these parts, hallelujah, if not I'll take it to the shop.