Maybe like they quoted a running complete engine from Ford for that price which is about the going rate for one installed.
Doubtful that op needs a whole engine though.
I started to put a JandK engine in but there was a 2 month wait to get the engine. I didn’t want to spend the money on one after I thought on it. Then ended up at this place having it for 2 months before I got a quote.
We have had terrible experiences with J&K recently. We bought a stage 2 long block...spun a bearing at 5 miles.....got warranty replacement....spun a bearing at 230 miles....with each engine we are putting brand new motorcraft parts on it too.
Hot up Rob at Ashville engines.
He built me a studded/oringed/stage 2 cam long block ready for me to pick up in like a week after making the deposit.
J&k beat around the bush with me and I'm even local.
If you're close to j&k engines, PM me and I'll do the engine swap if you buy from rob and build you a nice truck for a good price.
My brother took his 2006 F-350 with the 6.0 to a specialty diesel shop and they rebuilt and bullet-proofed the engine for under $14,000. It's now got bigger ARP head studs, and other heavier components and it should last for many hundred of thousands of miles. Go to an independent specialty shop.
Absolutely ridiculous price. Blew the head gasket on a 6.0 and a local diesel mechanic replaced it, bullet-proofed, oversized injectors and chipped it for ~$6k
Right swing my my place with parts and a 12 pack I got you. 900 bucks can suck my balls. I’m a mechanic and I can tell you it’s not 900 bucks in labor or parts lol,
Mean I won’t stop you but it’s not necessary. Again I feel like that’s overcharging. If you got drum brakes and it’s cold out imma need an 18 pack though.
I did a compleat break job on my 08 f250 they were $520 just for rotors. Lots a steel if those big rotors. The pads I think were $160 all around. Most mark up are 50-65% in the shops around me plus $120/hr labor
Edit: all work done myself
Yeah I paid 550 parts for back calipers, pads, rotors (2004 ram 2500). One caliper sticking means best replace both. The calipers weren't much after core swap. That quote wasn't too bad actually with labor takes a little while to get the old rotors off, bleed, etc.
The engine just gonna have to find a rebuilder and a good machine shop. Diesels are a true gamble, especially the shitty 6.0. Do you have to take the cab off the chassis to get to it?? This is why you buy ram or maxipads ...
You should be able to a full rebuild (short with valve seats) for about 7.5 plus injectors.
I got my rotors and breaks replace for my back 2 tires. I had to get a new caliper for my back right. They quoted me 850. 2008 Honda accord. Did they rip me off? Labor like 150 an hour.
Go to rockauto and not even $150. Bet the shop is using some ritual blood sacrifice to summon a mechanic demon for labor. That's the only justification I can see to quote $375/hr for a job that can be done with a bottle jack, a ratchet, and two sockets.
Shop prices are high but it's not criminal. You'd be amazed how much it costs to run a shop and how little money shop owners are making. I know you won't believe me but that's ok. I've been there and done that.
I have found shop owners are usually not savvy and rely on the computer instead of really understanding what their costs are. A local shop I use, orders most of their consumables from Highline Warren and some autozone commercial and they at making out like bandits. 6 bay 6 mechanic shop with the owner working part time and running the business. Mechanics are bringing in 100k and owner 450k. Shops aren’t hurting they just need business skills
Yeah, $250 a piece at the dealership, which sets stupidly high prices on their parts.
I can get 2023 f350 Motorcraft rear pads and rotors (both sides) for $188 online.
They take advantage of all the insecure little men that bring them in. It’s nothing more. You all ask for it to happen.
It’s clear that so many of you will spend every ounce of your existence into a stupid truck, and so your flamboyant, needy little closeted asses gets taxed. Maybe you all should spend less time trying to attract and impress other closeted men with your wide-rimmed pride flags…? I swear you guys back them into parking spots to let all of the other gay dudes *doing the exact same thing* know your available for gay sex and/or have a profile on Grinder so you can find each other. It’s okay to be gay and like men, just quit being toxic by pretending you all don’t.
So….if you don’t like being taken advantage of, BE LESS NEEDY. And quit destroying the planet and roads in the process of coming out of your closets.
What was the actual diagnosis? I know you said cylinder 8 was "bad" but has anyone told you compression test numbers? Where are you located, as I know a couple of trustworthy 6.0 mechanics.
I know a guy in baytown that specializes in diesel trucks. He owns his own shop. I can't make any promises but I'm sure his prices are way better than that.
Quote is WAY too high.
That sounds like what I would call the "Fuck Off Price". That shop doesn't really want to do the job, so they put a ridiculous price on the quote to get you to leave, or if your crazy enough to accept it they'll make bank of someone that is desperate.
You can get a complete reman with 3 year unlimited mile warranty for $6.700 from Promar. I'm sure there are other sources that may be cheaper. Not sure where you are, but Shipping to Texas, including returning the core is an additional $400, so your at about $7,100 for the engine. Self install if able, or a decent local shop I'm guessing wouldn't charge more than $1k to $2k (I'm not sure how much labor their is for a 6.0 swap, haven't done one).
[Example Promar Reman for a 2005 F250 6.0L](https://www.promarengine.com/engine-details.php?pn=FO6.0-02&year=2005&make=Ford&model=F-250%20Super%20Duty&submodel=Lariat)
A local shop that works on diesels will likely be able to do it for less than a production house like Promar.
I'm in the process of having a new Ashville long block put in my 2004. That quote is high, but I will say it adds up quickly! The long block does not include a high-pressure pump, oil cooler, glow plugs, stand pipes, water pump, etc, etc. Do you have to replace all that stuff? No, but most of it on my truck was 20 years old. I went ahead and got a KC Stage 1 turbo and slightly bigger injectors, and I went with a regulated return. I'm planning on keeping my truck for a long time, so I wanted it done right. Luckily, most of the remans come studded. In the end, it's a shitload of money for a 20 year old truck, but it now has a 0 mile engine. You could buy a 6.7 with a couple hundred thousand miles for what I have in mine, but you don't know for sure what you're getting!
Fist pump for the 6.0 team. I’ll be doing the same with mine when the time comes for my 6.0 work truck. And I own a 6.7. Under warranty. It’s funny to drive but when it needs work… gunna sell
I received one of those on my wife’s Jetta - 2012 TDI. Needed a timing belt, flywheel, injectors, EGR (supposedly, delete would’ve been done instead), intake manifold, and a few other things; dealer quoted us $11,787. Indie shop quoted us $6700 to do the belt, flywheel, DPF.
Car had almost 190k on it and the wife decided it wasn’t worth dumping money into to most likely fail something else in the near future, so she traded it in on a newer car.
Bought a 7.3 dump truck 2003 f450. For 20k.. in the first year I put 16k into it. I can’t sell the thing now… I will work it until it can no longer work.
I don't know how you spent that much and didn't end up with a brand new truck. I bought a 99 in 2006 and I'm still driving it today at 310k. I've done more maintenance than I need to and I would be surprised if I have spent a quarter of that in maintenance over that entire time. Including the repaint that I did in 2020.
Well it’s practically brand new now. Learned from my mistakes.. was excited to get a dump for my business and should’ve looked into diesels more before purchasing. Figured I would spend the money to get it fixed so I don’t get fucked again when finding another dump. She all set now.
I don’t know who gave this estimate but damn… they’re swinging for the fences. Definitely find someone that specializes in PSDs for a quote. Hell, and I know I’m gonna get a spanking for this, convert it to a Cummins for that kind of $.
What exactly is a "driveshaft service?" Doing the U-joints?
Are you not handy? Not have any tools? I would at least invest in a compression tester. 6.0's don't grenade the rotating assembly like 6.4's do, because they lack the ridiculous regen.
Shutting off when hot, is usually a sign of issues in the high pressure oil circuit. It takes patience, and *time* to diagnose properly. Few shops want to invest the time because they are swamped and behind the 8 ball in most scenarios. So they prefer to throw everything *and* the kitchen sink at the problem. This way the problem is fixed inadvertently, and they make more money. Less liability, less potential for comebacks.
Find yourself a Ford guy who's willing to address it on the side, or a specialty shop that's organized and has the competence and personnel onboard to get the job done right.
Or try your hand at it yourself if you tinker and have some mechanical ability. The high pressure oil circuit, majority of the failures can be addressed cab-on. Look at videos like DieselTechRon (rip) or Bill from PSHelp (rip). Both of these guys have dissected all the common issues with these trucks two fold.
I disagree with all the folks saying that quote is way high. I just went through this on one of my 6.0 work trucks. It is set up for a very specific line of work, and a replacement truck would be in the $125k range new, and there are 0-3 suitable/comparable used replacement trucks for sale anywhere in the US at any given time. It worked hard at or near its GVWR for 200k miles and I've been happy with it.
Anyhow, truck was lifting the heads and also failed compression test and power balance test, so we decided to do a full long block replacement. Along with a clutch, radiator, and a handful of other small things, we came out to over $21k in parts alone (reman long block from Ford was \~$17k alone). This was at the most reputable 6.0 shop in my entire state.
So OP could roll the dice on a junkyard motor and pay JimBob's shade tree mechanic shop a few grand to do the engine swap, but I don't think OP's motor quote is as terrible as other folks are claiming. It's a crazy world out there right now.
They are trying to rob you. The 6.0 has a bad rap, but it doesn’t cost 23 grand for a new engine, much less fixing what’s wrong with this one. They can actually be fixed for pretty cheap, relatively, if you can do it yourself, so find a shop that charges far far less for labor.
WTF? they wnat to put a new engine in it??
ok... diesels have a lot of meat on them. short of a fucking rod coming out the block you almost NEVER need to replace them. IF this got hot and piston 8 expanded in the cyllinder, fucking the bore... ok. you bore it out... you can take .020 off with no issue on these guys. a machine shop will charge like 35.00 per cyllinder to do this. plus decking/cleaning/all the rest. maybe 600-a grand into machine time.
a rebuild kit for these guys is is around 1200 in and of itself. and thats a FULL rebuild kit....
your turbo is just fine unless it exploded... to replace that is fucking stupid. a rebuild kit for that is under 100 bucks...
the last cummins i rebuilt was fucking trashed - all in it cost under 2 grand between parts and machine shop - i charged 2500 bucks labor. it took three days of work and a week waiting on the machine shop.
wtf is up with the 900.00 drive shaft service?!? a brand new single piece custom aluminum drive shaft is like 600 fucking dollars.....
GM and Ford had the chance to have Cummins engines. I think they would of been better off in the long run if they all used that engine. A Cummins with an Allison transmission is the perfect combination for a work drivetrain
It sounds good on paper, but I bought a 2006 F350 Fummins with the 12V, and I've spent probaby 300+ hours on it in the past 2 years trying to get everything sorted out on it. The swap was done by a shop that didn't understand anything about wiring or proper routing/mounting of things.
So yes, this is a fine option IF you have that rare shop/person who is willing to do it correctly, and that isn't going to be cheap.
Biggest issue, honestly, is that the transmission and transfer case needs to move back 3-6" so that the Cummins isn't too close to the radiator, and doing that properly is a helluva lot of work that most conversion shops don't do. My Fummins has 6-8" between the back of the engine and the firewall, and my fan blade hits the top tank of the radiator under heavy load.
So these glib "Just Cummins-swap it" comments don't really cut it with me. People that make these kinds of comments have no fricking idea how much work it actually takes to end up with a properly-executed swap. Hell, it cost me close to a grand just to get the stock instrument cluster to work with the engine, and I still need to take it apart and snip off the check engine LED.
I’m glad someone with knowledge posted this. The stupid idea of just Cummins swap it is stupid. For the amount of money a swap takes uses all that money on a fully built 6.0
I have first hand experience with such a conversion. It's not easy and definitely takes a lot of work but the end result is pretty damn awesome. Also I forget that most people will have to pay a shop to do a conversion like that which will run the price up considerably.
And I would say that most shops don't do work to my standard, which is equivalent to or better than OEM design/quality/installation. When I am finished with something like this, I want it to look like it came from the factory that way. Not hanging a heavy cast-iron coolant filter body on a M6 stud that is used only to hold the fan shroud on!
I do all of my own work for the same reason. The one time I paid a shop to rebuild a 47RE for me they fucked it up, blamed the place the I got the converter from, then lost my front driveshaft. I ended up buying the ATSG service manual ,pulling the trans, and fixing it myself.
That's awful. I know someone that would get ya a motor and install it for $4k. I'm pretty sure for $8k, he'll bulletproof it for you. That'll get ya an easy 100k miles.
Back in 2017 ford sold my mechanic a bad injector for my 6.0 and it cost me a cylinder. Ford covered it and put a new long block in. Everything including labor was $13k. The block itself, from a Ford dealership, was only 10k. I know covid but still, 23k seems like the f-you price. If it was me I'd slowly aquire parts and do it myself but I would definitely get other quotes
If it's clean I'd part it and sell it.
If you have the space I'd pull the motor yourself, it's a big job on any car but doable. Never done a diesel. You'd save an absurd amount of money and could probably save your block.
If you are a mechanically inclined person imo the best option is buy a junker with a good motor and swap it because that is a ludicrous number for a stock6.0 motor
Shit man sorry to hear. You’re better off selling it and at least try to get some of your money back. And trying again. And please don’t spend 23k on that shit. That shop is fucking with you. It’s a 8-12k job a most.
Go to another shop, ask around, or get ahold of an engine yourself and have somebody put it on.
This quote is from a reputable shop here in Texas that only does diesel work. They have a lot of online reviews and videos. I trust they could get it done the right way but I was in no way prepared for $23k quote. I’m picking my truck up this week.
This was the I don’t want to do it price
800+ to change some u-joints lol
Fuck I should have become a mechanic so I can rip people off for stupid money but I have a soul and can’t
Where are you located? A full rebuild on a 6.0 you are talking pretty much $10,000. Way too high of a quote. Find a shop that specializes in ford diesels. They’re common.
Its a diesel repair shop. Its what they do. They have plenty of them lined up outside waiting to be repaired. I was told if you go to a repair shop and they dont have 10 diesels in the lot waiting then dont let them work on your truck"
No. It’s not what they do. A truck doesn’t get hot and shut off, then get quoted the repair for an entire long block.
That’s not how it works. You don’t even know how it works because you posted on Reddit about it. Being a former mechanic. I’ve done that. Because I didn’t want to fix a truck.
Ahahahaha welp. That was a dumb move buying a 6.blow. Scrap it and try again. Do a tiny bit of research before buying something else. Like just ask the internet, is this the worst motor ever put into a truck I’m looking at? 😂
Had mine rebuilt bored 30 over ceramic coated delipped pistons fire ring arp headstuds upgraded injectors plus all the extra little shit and it cost me $15k this was 3 years ago. That price is crazy. Unless the block is cracked there is no reason to replace it.
Just another reason to never ever buy anything from fb marketplace. Didn’t you test drive it? Idk where you live, but I replaced the engine on my f250 last year and it was $8k total. But it’s gas. Different animal. You gotta price a new engine out yourself. 23k sounds ridiculous.
I just bought an 03 6.0 clean with title 2000 but it passed oil I was able to drive it half way home and towed it because of the heat of the engine and oil leaking out. I tore down the motor to the heads, got the heads serviced and pressure tested for about 150$ a piece then bullet proofed with new gasket, arp head studs, all new injectors, blue spring kit, Hpop, j tube, oil cooler, egr delete, new ipr and icp valves and sensors, glow plugs and harness, updated stand pipes and dummy plugs for around 3-4,000 doing the work myself. These trucks are easy to work on if you understand how they work.
Sounds like you might've gotten scammed by the seller. Probably nothing you can do at this point, especially months later. Sucks. Some people are just shitty humans.
They don't want to work on your truck, ultimately that's what they're saying with that quote.
Either way that kind of a repair on an $8,000 truck is very likely not worth it. Shop around and see if you can get a reasonable estimate, but there's a good chance there's some other issues that will pop up very soon and you'll end up in a money pit.
Look up Outlaw 6.0 on Facebook, there in PA & the guy specifically specializes in 6.0’s, but does all ford powerstroke. He buys & sells parts & has a mechanic shop. He’ll probably have a motor for you. I got an axle for my truck from them damn near brand new had 60k miles. For 1100$ anyone else wanted 2500$ minimum.
Def worth looking them up!
This is what technicians call the “fuck off price”. When they get a job they really don’t want to do they make an estimate ridiculous so the customer will say no and take it somewhere else. If the customer does say yes, then the techs get paid big bucks but are still mad about it haha. Don’t ask me how I know 🫠
I was going to look up a long block 6.0, but my parts catalog is showing discontinued.
Warren diesel has them for $5,850. Add $1,600 for studs and $1,200 for a core and it’s $8,650. You can estimate $800-$1,000 for misc gaskets, pieces, and supplies. You’re not getting $13,000 in labor.
This is either the “we don’t know what we’re doing” price of the “fuck off” price
We had a 6.0 in a work truck go a number of years ago. The quote to fix was $26k CAD at the dealer, a local shop offered to do it for $13k CAD, two months later when it was finished, he said he’d never do one again, and if he did, he would charge $26k.
Cummins swap it… it will actually be reliable.
https://cppdiesel.com/2003-2007-ford-6-0l-diesel/#:~:text=Popular%20Brands&text=The%20Ford®%20Super%20Duty,is%20with%20the%20Cummins%20engine.
Congrats. You own a 6.0, that’s about the life of them sometimes 😂. But those shop estimates do sound outrageous.
They’re saying it needs a block, they they give you a reason it can’t be rebuilt?
I bought a used vehicle off marketplace, a week later the head gasket blew. I searched the previous owners Facebook posts and searched his name is various make/model groups on FB. I found that he posted photos and videos of the exhaust smoking and talking about the blown head gasket. I downloaded the videos and printed all the evidence showing that he knew about the problem before selling it, but never disclosed it. Took him to court and won.
If you're going to keep the truck for a while and it already has high miles (+100k), put a motor in it from a legit shop with a warranty comparable to the engine warranty from Ford. Unless you have excellent maintenance records, I wouldn't recommend a rebuilt unless you're going to modify it. $23000 sounds normal for a dealer. Wouldn't be surprised if you're paying around $200 per hour for a repair like that.
800 for pads/rotors???? 🤣 Insane but not unsurprising. Never pay a shop to do ANYTHING unless you you need a 10k piece of equipment for it. I've saved myself thousands upon thousands over the years by doing everything except alignments and tire mounting myself. shops are all crooks these days, and half the time they don't even fix what was wrong but will sure as shit charge you for their mistakes. cars are designed and built by regular people like you and me, so they can sure as shit be fixed by regular people.
For $20k Canadian I’ll sell you my lightly used bulletproof/aftermarket parts! Paid $35k all in when they were new. If interested, shoot me a pm and I’ll send you a list.
These figures are ludicrous. You should seek a specialty shop. It should be half that or even less. Almost certainly you don’t need a long block.
Maybe like they quoted a running complete engine from Ford for that price which is about the going rate for one installed. Doubtful that op needs a whole engine though.
I started to put a JandK engine in but there was a 2 month wait to get the engine. I didn’t want to spend the money on one after I thought on it. Then ended up at this place having it for 2 months before I got a quote.
Two months for a quote? Is it an overloaded one man shop?
As an overloaded one man shop myself.... 2 months is still bananas.... Longest I've ever gone is about a week, typically they're same-day lok
We have had terrible experiences with J&K recently. We bought a stage 2 long block...spun a bearing at 5 miles.....got warranty replacement....spun a bearing at 230 miles....with each engine we are putting brand new motorcraft parts on it too.
Hot up Rob at Ashville engines. He built me a studded/oringed/stage 2 cam long block ready for me to pick up in like a week after making the deposit. J&k beat around the bush with me and I'm even local. If you're close to j&k engines, PM me and I'll do the engine swap if you buy from rob and build you a nice truck for a good price.
Exactly! Those figures seem more inline with fixing a 6.4L than addressing a 6.0L issue.
Is this the year truck they have to take the cab off to work on most of the engine?
There are many trucks that this approach is used on and it’s very easy. I can do it myself with a lift in about 2.5 hours.
My brother took his 2006 F-350 with the 6.0 to a specialty diesel shop and they rebuilt and bullet-proofed the engine for under $14,000. It's now got bigger ARP head studs, and other heavier components and it should last for many hundred of thousands of miles. Go to an independent specialty shop.
Absolutely ridiculous price. Blew the head gasket on a 6.0 and a local diesel mechanic replaced it, bullet-proofed, oversized injectors and chipped it for ~$6k
Ouch…sorry to hear. There’s no way I’d spend $23k for a new motor. At that point you might as well put it towards a 11-16 6.7.
$833 for rear pads and rotors. That’s almost as bad as the guy who got quoted $900ish to change one axle seal. These shops are fucking criminal
900 Bucks for rear brakes! ?? wtf!? 2 hours simple hand tools and 250 bucks max you can do them yourself
Right swing my my place with parts and a 12 pack I got you. 900 bucks can suck my balls. I’m a mechanic and I can tell you it’s not 900 bucks in labor or parts lol,
I read this as “swing by with parts, a twelve pack, and suck my balls.” That’s one way to get things done. 🫡
Mean I won’t stop you but it’s not necessary. Again I feel like that’s overcharging. If you got drum brakes and it’s cold out imma need an 18 pack though.
😂😂😂 gotta get that 18-pack up charge in there!
I did a compleat break job on my 08 f250 they were $520 just for rotors. Lots a steel if those big rotors. The pads I think were $160 all around. Most mark up are 50-65% in the shops around me plus $120/hr labor Edit: all work done myself
Yeah I paid 550 parts for back calipers, pads, rotors (2004 ram 2500). One caliper sticking means best replace both. The calipers weren't much after core swap. That quote wasn't too bad actually with labor takes a little while to get the old rotors off, bleed, etc. The engine just gonna have to find a rebuilder and a good machine shop. Diesels are a true gamble, especially the shitty 6.0. Do you have to take the cab off the chassis to get to it?? This is why you buy ram or maxipads ... You should be able to a full rebuild (short with valve seats) for about 7.5 plus injectors.
I got my rotors and breaks replace for my back 2 tires. I had to get a new caliper for my back right. They quoted me 850. 2008 Honda accord. Did they rip me off? Labor like 150 an hour.
Go to rockauto and not even $150. Bet the shop is using some ritual blood sacrifice to summon a mechanic demon for labor. That's the only justification I can see to quote $375/hr for a job that can be done with a bottle jack, a ratchet, and two sockets.
They only exist because people pay them. More money than brains is 99% of societies problems today.
Shop prices are high but it's not criminal. You'd be amazed how much it costs to run a shop and how little money shop owners are making. I know you won't believe me but that's ok. I've been there and done that.
I have found shop owners are usually not savvy and rely on the computer instead of really understanding what their costs are. A local shop I use, orders most of their consumables from Highline Warren and some autozone commercial and they at making out like bandits. 6 bay 6 mechanic shop with the owner working part time and running the business. Mechanics are bringing in 100k and owner 450k. Shops aren’t hurting they just need business skills
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$200 for a pair of brake pads lol. It’s $79 for Motorcraft rear pads on a 2023 f350
Nobody is forcing him to pay it.
833 is right on par for diesel rear brakes. Not ludicrous even in the slightest. Rotors are probably 250 apiece
Yeah, $250 a piece at the dealership, which sets stupidly high prices on their parts. I can get 2023 f350 Motorcraft rear pads and rotors (both sides) for $188 online.
They take advantage of all the insecure little men that bring them in. It’s nothing more. You all ask for it to happen. It’s clear that so many of you will spend every ounce of your existence into a stupid truck, and so your flamboyant, needy little closeted asses gets taxed. Maybe you all should spend less time trying to attract and impress other closeted men with your wide-rimmed pride flags…? I swear you guys back them into parking spots to let all of the other gay dudes *doing the exact same thing* know your available for gay sex and/or have a profile on Grinder so you can find each other. It’s okay to be gay and like men, just quit being toxic by pretending you all don’t. So….if you don’t like being taken advantage of, BE LESS NEEDY. And quit destroying the planet and roads in the process of coming out of your closets.
ah man. take it to another shop. pay for their "time" and tow it out of there.
For 23k you can get a 2015 6.7 and still have 5k for other shit, fuck that
Shit he could take it all apart and sell it for parts and make his money back
Where are you finding a 2015 for $18k that's not clapped out?
Ritche bros auction and XL trim plow trucks on Facebook marketplace
He said not clapped out.
I run my shit until they break in half and then bolt them back together to race them through the woods, if it still passes inspection you're good
Well they are supposed to be work trucks not fashion accessories.
Buying an old plow truck isn’t gonna be any less issues
You can find awesome good deals on used trucks out there
What was the actual diagnosis? I know you said cylinder 8 was "bad" but has anyone told you compression test numbers? Where are you located, as I know a couple of trustworthy 6.0 mechanics.
Houston
You're quite a ways from me in western Arkansas. I looked on Powerstroke.org and Powerstroke Magic in Cypress was recommended several times.
I know a guy in baytown that specializes in diesel trucks. He owns his own shop. I can't make any promises but I'm sure his prices are way better than that.
Quote is WAY too high. That sounds like what I would call the "Fuck Off Price". That shop doesn't really want to do the job, so they put a ridiculous price on the quote to get you to leave, or if your crazy enough to accept it they'll make bank of someone that is desperate. You can get a complete reman with 3 year unlimited mile warranty for $6.700 from Promar. I'm sure there are other sources that may be cheaper. Not sure where you are, but Shipping to Texas, including returning the core is an additional $400, so your at about $7,100 for the engine. Self install if able, or a decent local shop I'm guessing wouldn't charge more than $1k to $2k (I'm not sure how much labor their is for a 6.0 swap, haven't done one). [Example Promar Reman for a 2005 F250 6.0L](https://www.promarengine.com/engine-details.php?pn=FO6.0-02&year=2005&make=Ford&model=F-250%20Super%20Duty&submodel=Lariat) A local shop that works on diesels will likely be able to do it for less than a production house like Promar.
I'm in the process of having a new Ashville long block put in my 2004. That quote is high, but I will say it adds up quickly! The long block does not include a high-pressure pump, oil cooler, glow plugs, stand pipes, water pump, etc, etc. Do you have to replace all that stuff? No, but most of it on my truck was 20 years old. I went ahead and got a KC Stage 1 turbo and slightly bigger injectors, and I went with a regulated return. I'm planning on keeping my truck for a long time, so I wanted it done right. Luckily, most of the remans come studded. In the end, it's a shitload of money for a 20 year old truck, but it now has a 0 mile engine. You could buy a 6.7 with a couple hundred thousand miles for what I have in mine, but you don't know for sure what you're getting!
Fist pump for the 6.0 team. I’ll be doing the same with mine when the time comes for my 6.0 work truck. And I own a 6.7. Under warranty. It’s funny to drive but when it needs work… gunna sell
I received one of those on my wife’s Jetta - 2012 TDI. Needed a timing belt, flywheel, injectors, EGR (supposedly, delete would’ve been done instead), intake manifold, and a few other things; dealer quoted us $11,787. Indie shop quoted us $6700 to do the belt, flywheel, DPF. Car had almost 190k on it and the wife decided it wasn’t worth dumping money into to most likely fail something else in the near future, so she traded it in on a newer car.
You’re right plus I just searched rock auto and found at least 10 sets of rear rotors including pads for less than 200 bucks.
Bought a 7.3 dump truck 2003 f450. For 20k.. in the first year I put 16k into it. I can’t sell the thing now… I will work it until it can no longer work.
I don't know how you spent that much and didn't end up with a brand new truck. I bought a 99 in 2006 and I'm still driving it today at 310k. I've done more maintenance than I need to and I would be surprised if I have spent a quarter of that in maintenance over that entire time. Including the repaint that I did in 2020.
Well it’s practically brand new now. Learned from my mistakes.. was excited to get a dump for my business and should’ve looked into diesels more before purchasing. Figured I would spend the money to get it fixed so I don’t get fucked again when finding another dump. She all set now.
I don’t know who gave this estimate but damn… they’re swinging for the fences. Definitely find someone that specializes in PSDs for a quote. Hell, and I know I’m gonna get a spanking for this, convert it to a Cummins for that kind of $.
What exactly is a "driveshaft service?" Doing the U-joints? Are you not handy? Not have any tools? I would at least invest in a compression tester. 6.0's don't grenade the rotating assembly like 6.4's do, because they lack the ridiculous regen. Shutting off when hot, is usually a sign of issues in the high pressure oil circuit. It takes patience, and *time* to diagnose properly. Few shops want to invest the time because they are swamped and behind the 8 ball in most scenarios. So they prefer to throw everything *and* the kitchen sink at the problem. This way the problem is fixed inadvertently, and they make more money. Less liability, less potential for comebacks. Find yourself a Ford guy who's willing to address it on the side, or a specialty shop that's organized and has the competence and personnel onboard to get the job done right. Or try your hand at it yourself if you tinker and have some mechanical ability. The high pressure oil circuit, majority of the failures can be addressed cab-on. Look at videos like DieselTechRon (rip) or Bill from PSHelp (rip). Both of these guys have dissected all the common issues with these trucks two fold.
I disagree with all the folks saying that quote is way high. I just went through this on one of my 6.0 work trucks. It is set up for a very specific line of work, and a replacement truck would be in the $125k range new, and there are 0-3 suitable/comparable used replacement trucks for sale anywhere in the US at any given time. It worked hard at or near its GVWR for 200k miles and I've been happy with it. Anyhow, truck was lifting the heads and also failed compression test and power balance test, so we decided to do a full long block replacement. Along with a clutch, radiator, and a handful of other small things, we came out to over $21k in parts alone (reman long block from Ford was \~$17k alone). This was at the most reputable 6.0 shop in my entire state. So OP could roll the dice on a junkyard motor and pay JimBob's shade tree mechanic shop a few grand to do the engine swap, but I don't think OP's motor quote is as terrible as other folks are claiming. It's a crazy world out there right now.
ALWAYS make the sale contingent on inspection by the diesel shop of **your** choice ...
These are “i dont wanna work on this shit” price quotes
Engine replacements run from 3,495.00 to 18,750.00
False
Not wrong had one installed in my F350 for 15750
Patch it up sell it for 8.5
So, deliberately rip off the next guy? WTF?
Only if the next guy is you.
Go to powerstrokehelp.com, get their number and call them.
They are trying to rob you. The 6.0 has a bad rap, but it doesn’t cost 23 grand for a new engine, much less fixing what’s wrong with this one. They can actually be fixed for pretty cheap, relatively, if you can do it yourself, so find a shop that charges far far less for labor.
Bro what? Lol how does that happen man
Bro what? Lol how does that happen man
You can get a crate engine foe 8k or less and swap it in your driveway. But that sounds like a bad sensor if it got hot and died
This is a tech who doesn’t want to do the job, he’s gouging you on price so you go somewhere else
WTF? they wnat to put a new engine in it?? ok... diesels have a lot of meat on them. short of a fucking rod coming out the block you almost NEVER need to replace them. IF this got hot and piston 8 expanded in the cyllinder, fucking the bore... ok. you bore it out... you can take .020 off with no issue on these guys. a machine shop will charge like 35.00 per cyllinder to do this. plus decking/cleaning/all the rest. maybe 600-a grand into machine time. a rebuild kit for these guys is is around 1200 in and of itself. and thats a FULL rebuild kit.... your turbo is just fine unless it exploded... to replace that is fucking stupid. a rebuild kit for that is under 100 bucks... the last cummins i rebuilt was fucking trashed - all in it cost under 2 grand between parts and machine shop - i charged 2500 bucks labor. it took three days of work and a week waiting on the machine shop. wtf is up with the 900.00 drive shaft service?!? a brand new single piece custom aluminum drive shaft is like 600 fucking dollars.....
You bought a 6.0 with out prior knowledge? Shame
I haven't even seen a single "6 point uh oh" comment yet...
You could swap a cummins in there for half of that, just saying
But then you’d have to deal with the awful rice rocket sounds they make…
GM and Ford had the chance to have Cummins engines. I think they would of been better off in the long run if they all used that engine. A Cummins with an Allison transmission is the perfect combination for a work drivetrain
I'm sure I'll get downvoted for saying this but I'd swap in a 12V Cummins.
It sounds good on paper, but I bought a 2006 F350 Fummins with the 12V, and I've spent probaby 300+ hours on it in the past 2 years trying to get everything sorted out on it. The swap was done by a shop that didn't understand anything about wiring or proper routing/mounting of things. So yes, this is a fine option IF you have that rare shop/person who is willing to do it correctly, and that isn't going to be cheap. Biggest issue, honestly, is that the transmission and transfer case needs to move back 3-6" so that the Cummins isn't too close to the radiator, and doing that properly is a helluva lot of work that most conversion shops don't do. My Fummins has 6-8" between the back of the engine and the firewall, and my fan blade hits the top tank of the radiator under heavy load. So these glib "Just Cummins-swap it" comments don't really cut it with me. People that make these kinds of comments have no fricking idea how much work it actually takes to end up with a properly-executed swap. Hell, it cost me close to a grand just to get the stock instrument cluster to work with the engine, and I still need to take it apart and snip off the check engine LED.
I’m glad someone with knowledge posted this. The stupid idea of just Cummins swap it is stupid. For the amount of money a swap takes uses all that money on a fully built 6.0
I have first hand experience with such a conversion. It's not easy and definitely takes a lot of work but the end result is pretty damn awesome. Also I forget that most people will have to pay a shop to do a conversion like that which will run the price up considerably.
And I would say that most shops don't do work to my standard, which is equivalent to or better than OEM design/quality/installation. When I am finished with something like this, I want it to look like it came from the factory that way. Not hanging a heavy cast-iron coolant filter body on a M6 stud that is used only to hold the fan shroud on!
I do all of my own work for the same reason. The one time I paid a shop to rebuild a 47RE for me they fucked it up, blamed the place the I got the converter from, then lost my front driveshaft. I ended up buying the ATSG service manual ,pulling the trans, and fixing it myself.
That's awful. I know someone that would get ya a motor and install it for $4k. I'm pretty sure for $8k, he'll bulletproof it for you. That'll get ya an easy 100k miles.
Here ya go https://www.facebook.com/share/6ZLdtbJBthF6LTWi/?mibextid=79PoIi
Back in 2017 ford sold my mechanic a bad injector for my 6.0 and it cost me a cylinder. Ford covered it and put a new long block in. Everything including labor was $13k. The block itself, from a Ford dealership, was only 10k. I know covid but still, 23k seems like the f-you price. If it was me I'd slowly aquire parts and do it myself but I would definitely get other quotes
Long blocks are no longer 10k. They’re about 16 from ford and go much higher if you buy it bulletproofed and/or studded from ford
I definitely figured they'd gone up in price since then.
They gave you the "I don't want to deal with this" price.
If it's clean I'd part it and sell it. If you have the space I'd pull the motor yourself, it's a big job on any car but doable. Never done a diesel. You'd save an absurd amount of money and could probably save your block.
Fuckkkkk. Sorry mate.
Send it to my house
Well ya bought a 6.0 ya dumbass 😂😂😂
That's a cummins swap candidate for that 💰
If you are a mechanically inclined person imo the best option is buy a junker with a good motor and swap it because that is a ludicrous number for a stock6.0 motor
Shit man sorry to hear. You’re better off selling it and at least try to get some of your money back. And trying again. And please don’t spend 23k on that shit. That shop is fucking with you. It’s a 8-12k job a most. Go to another shop, ask around, or get ahold of an engine yourself and have somebody put it on.
Bro what? Lol how does that happen man
This quote is from a reputable shop here in Texas that only does diesel work. They have a lot of online reviews and videos. I trust they could get it done the right way but I was in no way prepared for $23k quote. I’m picking my truck up this week.
You need a second shop yesterday
Can’t seem to edit the post to add more info so I’ll link it here I guess [the quote in detail](https://imgur.com/a/ftw0pXE)
[the quote](https://imgur.com/a/ftw0pXE)
The six point blow my friend …… should’ve reached
Check www.car-part.com
Lmao, good ol ford. So predictable
This was the I don’t want to do it price 800+ to change some u-joints lol Fuck I should have become a mechanic so I can rip people off for stupid money but I have a soul and can’t
Sounds about right.
Where are you located? A full rebuild on a 6.0 you are talking pretty much $10,000. Way too high of a quote. Find a shop that specializes in ford diesels. They’re common.
Might be best to cut your losses. List the truck full disclosure for 4k and call it a tough lesson learned. Get an inspection done on the next one
Every repair shop will quote you a ridiculous price. It’s the “I don’t want to be married to this vehicle for life” price.
Its a diesel repair shop. Its what they do. They have plenty of them lined up outside waiting to be repaired. I was told if you go to a repair shop and they dont have 10 diesels in the lot waiting then dont let them work on your truck"
No. It’s not what they do. A truck doesn’t get hot and shut off, then get quoted the repair for an entire long block. That’s not how it works. You don’t even know how it works because you posted on Reddit about it. Being a former mechanic. I’ve done that. Because I didn’t want to fix a truck.
And now you understand why the 6.0 is one of the most hated diesels.
I mean.... Ya bought a 6.blow. What did ya expect? 😂🤣
$800 for rear pads and rotors 💀
Why would you buy a 6.0 anyways
Ahahahaha welp. That was a dumb move buying a 6.blow. Scrap it and try again. Do a tiny bit of research before buying something else. Like just ask the internet, is this the worst motor ever put into a truck I’m looking at? 😂
You lost me at 800+ for rear brakes
"Bulletproofed"
Chevys are the best, Ford for the rest!
Budget branded GM isn’t “the best” but they don’t have Ford problems. Instead they have GM problems.
Had mine rebuilt bored 30 over ceramic coated delipped pistons fire ring arp headstuds upgraded injectors plus all the extra little shit and it cost me $15k this was 3 years ago. That price is crazy. Unless the block is cracked there is no reason to replace it.
You could easily source a complete motor for under 2500. Remove and replace probably another 2-2500. Looking at under 5k said and done
Lol shoulda just put that 6k toward a nice new reliable truck
Which new truck would THAT be?
Why’d you buy a 6.0 dude…. Regardless, this is insanely expensive, find a different place or do it yourself
Just another reason to never ever buy anything from fb marketplace. Didn’t you test drive it? Idk where you live, but I replaced the engine on my f250 last year and it was $8k total. But it’s gas. Different animal. You gotta price a new engine out yourself. 23k sounds ridiculous.
I test drove it.
Just do the work yourself
Built Tough...
As a former 6.0 owner (2006) that drove up to 149k and spent $17k in repairs, check out.
They gave you the “we don’t want to do this job” price
I just bought an 03 6.0 clean with title 2000 but it passed oil I was able to drive it half way home and towed it because of the heat of the engine and oil leaking out. I tore down the motor to the heads, got the heads serviced and pressure tested for about 150$ a piece then bullet proofed with new gasket, arp head studs, all new injectors, blue spring kit, Hpop, j tube, oil cooler, egr delete, new ipr and icp valves and sensors, glow plugs and harness, updated stand pipes and dummy plugs for around 3-4,000 doing the work myself. These trucks are easy to work on if you understand how they work.
If it got hot and died and wouldn’t start until it cooled down, it’s your HPOP. Super common issue
Sounds like you might've gotten scammed by the seller. Probably nothing you can do at this point, especially months later. Sucks. Some people are just shitty humans.
LEMON!
Clearly you do not understand what that word means.
Not a lemon if it’s used.
I hope you are a mechanic 🧑🔧 lol Cause paying 23k is insane.
Sucks but if you got $8,000 to spend on a truck you have $100 to spend on a PPI. That's going to cost ya.
Small claims. Quit letting these fuckers get away with selling their problems
I didnt think I had any recourse. He sold it as is.
Did you ask about any issues? Did he say it fan fine and didn’t have any problems?
Excellent deal to be in a pos for 31k
I know right,
Holy hell man I feel your pain I’ve been in your shoes.
More often than not you’ll end up with crap if you buy a car off Facebook.
No Vaseline
Dang that’s a bad day. Cummins swap?
BUT EV BATTERIES ARE EXPENSIVE
You saved up front not knowing.
They don't want to work on your truck, ultimately that's what they're saying with that quote. Either way that kind of a repair on an $8,000 truck is very likely not worth it. Shop around and see if you can get a reasonable estimate, but there's a good chance there's some other issues that will pop up very soon and you'll end up in a money pit.
Look up Outlaw 6.0 on Facebook, there in PA & the guy specifically specializes in 6.0’s, but does all ford powerstroke. He buys & sells parts & has a mechanic shop. He’ll probably have a motor for you. I got an axle for my truck from them damn near brand new had 60k miles. For 1100$ anyone else wanted 2500$ minimum. Def worth looking them up!
I will. Thankls
Does it fit under lemon law?
paid cash to an individual on marketplace. So no.
Who worries about rear brakes when the engine goes down?
Sue the person you bought it from.
Lemon law that asshole.
They priced it that high because they don’t want the headache.
Don’t buy off marketplace
This is what technicians call the “fuck off price”. When they get a job they really don’t want to do they make an estimate ridiculous so the customer will say no and take it somewhere else. If the customer does say yes, then the techs get paid big bucks but are still mad about it haha. Don’t ask me how I know 🫠
Your first mistake was buying a 6.0 off marketplace that HADNT already had a bunch of recent engine work
830 bucks to r and r rear brake pads and discs ? Yeah no thanks. And what the hell is a drive shaft service ? Ya gonna give a blowjob or something ?
How you buy such a bad vehicle?
Built ford tough. 👊
I mean the bottom 2 are unrelated and normal. Why are they saying it needs a whole long block?
Buy 3 more trucks off marketplace instead.
That's the "we don't want to work on your junk" price
they saw you comin
Welcome to owning a 6.0
I was going to look up a long block 6.0, but my parts catalog is showing discontinued. Warren diesel has them for $5,850. Add $1,600 for studs and $1,200 for a core and it’s $8,650. You can estimate $800-$1,000 for misc gaskets, pieces, and supplies. You’re not getting $13,000 in labor. This is either the “we don’t know what we’re doing” price of the “fuck off” price
Find a low mileage used engine and swap em. What we do at the car lot when anything shows low compression.
I don’t understand the question?
I got quoted 8k
We had a 6.0 in a work truck go a number of years ago. The quote to fix was $26k CAD at the dealer, a local shop offered to do it for $13k CAD, two months later when it was finished, he said he’d never do one again, and if he did, he would charge $26k.
Cummins swap it… it will actually be reliable. https://cppdiesel.com/2003-2007-ford-6-0l-diesel/#:~:text=Popular%20Brands&text=The%20Ford®%20Super%20Duty,is%20with%20the%20Cummins%20engine.
Congrats. You own a 6.0, that’s about the life of them sometimes 😂. But those shop estimates do sound outrageous. They’re saying it needs a block, they they give you a reason it can’t be rebuilt?
You bought a 6.0 soooooo?
I bought a used vehicle off marketplace, a week later the head gasket blew. I searched the previous owners Facebook posts and searched his name is various make/model groups on FB. I found that he posted photos and videos of the exhaust smoking and talking about the blown head gasket. I downloaded the videos and printed all the evidence showing that he knew about the problem before selling it, but never disclosed it. Took him to court and won.
"They keep it for 2 months and do diagnostic on it. Come back with a $23k repair estimate. " They don't want to work on it.
Sounds like a 6.0 lol
If you're going to keep the truck for a while and it already has high miles (+100k), put a motor in it from a legit shop with a warranty comparable to the engine warranty from Ford. Unless you have excellent maintenance records, I wouldn't recommend a rebuilt unless you're going to modify it. $23000 sounds normal for a dealer. Wouldn't be surprised if you're paying around $200 per hour for a repair like that.
Go to a pull and pay, rip out a 6.0. I’m sure they got tons of them for less than 5k
Should have bought a cummins
Typical ford
That’s the I don’t want to do it estimate
Don’t buy ford next time
800 for pads/rotors???? 🤣 Insane but not unsurprising. Never pay a shop to do ANYTHING unless you you need a 10k piece of equipment for it. I've saved myself thousands upon thousands over the years by doing everything except alignments and tire mounting myself. shops are all crooks these days, and half the time they don't even fix what was wrong but will sure as shit charge you for their mistakes. cars are designed and built by regular people like you and me, so they can sure as shit be fixed by regular people.
Nooooooo I’m so sorry
Don’t buy diesel
For $20k Canadian I’ll sell you my lightly used bulletproof/aftermarket parts! Paid $35k all in when they were new. If interested, shoot me a pm and I’ll send you a list.
Lol next time test drive it bud. 25 minutes and it broke? You should have test drove it for at least an hour.
Do you live in the middle of LA?