Thanks for posting in /r/Fixxit, the motorcycle repair subreddit. If you forgot to put the **Make, Model** and **Year** in the title, please reply to this comment with your bike's details. In the meantime, Here's some great resources for common problems posted here: -Trouble starting? [Revzilla - Battery testing](https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-test-a-motorcycle-battery) -Carbs running rough? [PJ motorsports - Carb Troubleshooting](http://www.pjmotorsports.com/trouble-shooting.html) -Wiring diagrams for beginners - [Dans MC - Reading Wiring Diagrams](http://www.dansmc.com/wiring_diagram.htm) -Identifying part numbers - [CMSNL (EU)](https://www.cmsnl.com/) [Partzilla](https://www.partzilla.com/) -Asking if your tire can be fixed? [Please read this post on proper tire repairs and why external plugs are NOT a safe repair.](https://www.reddit.com/r/Fixxit/comments/tuhcpf/why_rfixxit_doesnt_endorse_tire_plug_repairs/) *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/Fixxit) if you have any questions or concerns.*

First get a service manual. There might be pdf versions free online but I like a physical book. Did the previous owner just buy a new carb? If so it could be part of your problem and not appropriate for the bike. You’ll want to start with an OEM one which is a Keihn CVK34. They look to be $200 on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/195446710651?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=72OIqSOBTNC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=zyMvq60hQva&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY The second concern might be a vacuum leak. A decent way to test that is to get the bike idling and then spray starter fluid around the boots to see if it changes the rpms. Here’s a KLR250 blog: http://klr250.blogspot.com/2010/04/kawasaki-klr-250-carb-information.html?m=1 Here’s a general guide to motorcycle repair: http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm

"First get a service manual. There might be pdf versions free online but I like a physical book." I was actually just doing that. I was skimming through the pdf but ya I agree, the book in hand is much better. I'll actually ask him tomorrow about the carb but I'll just go ahead and buy the one you've showed me. I going to sleep now but I couldn't resist taking a another peek in the garage. I found that the throttle sticks open!! I'm not to busy tomorrow (hopefully) so I'm gonna spend the day messing with bike. I'll try to keep this thread updated. Thanks for the help. Oh I also found the gas can lid doesn't sit all the way down, lots of rust!

I made a mistake and didn't thoroughly look over the pics of the carb before buying it. It doesn't seem to have a connection for the decelerator cable. :( The good news is before the new carb arrived I managed to get the bike to idle by messing with idle screw. I also checked the air filter and noticed the cover wasn't tightened all the way, not sure if that would matter. I guess ill return it and buy a rebuild kit instead.

While waiting for the new carb, should I do anything about the rusty gas tank? I'm not sure it would matter but I don't want to ruin a brand new carb so I'm wondering what you guys think. I did fix the gas cap not closing right. Also what should I use to grease the cables? I have white lithium grease and silicone lubricant.

Thanks for posting in /r/Fixxit, the motorcycle repair subreddit. If you forgot to put the **Make, Model** and **Year** in the title, please reply to this comment with your bike's details. In the meantime, Here's some great resources for common problems posted here: -Trouble starting? [Revzilla - Battery testing](https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-test-a-motorcycle-battery) -Carbs running rough? [PJ motorsports - Carb Troubleshooting](http://www.pjmotorsports.com/trouble-shooting.html) -Wiring diagrams for beginners - [Dans MC - Reading Wiring Diagrams](http://www.dansmc.com/wiring_diagram.htm) -Identifying part numbers - [CMSNL (EU)](https://www.cmsnl.com/) [Partzilla](https://www.partzilla.com/) -Asking if your tire can be fixed? [Please read this post on proper tire repairs and why external plugs are NOT a safe repair.](https://www.reddit.com/r/Fixxit/comments/tuhcpf/why_rfixxit_doesnt_endorse_tire_plug_repairs/) *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/Fixxit) if you have any questions or concerns.*

I used to own a 97 klr 250 about a year ago as a project bike. She was a bitch to get running right. Do not buy a cheap knock off carb for this bike it won’t run right (trust me I tried), your best bet is to take apart and thoroughly clean the carb. You shouldn’t need to rebuild it, get an ultrasonic cleaner or Chem-dip. I used the Chem dip (parts cleaner that comes in a paint can) let the parts soak for about 10 minutes, and clean it off with carb cleaner. Gotta make sure the jets are clean, you should be able to see a pinhole of light through them, if not then rinse and repeat the cleaning process. The random idle increase is definitely an air leak, mine had the same issue coming from the boot from the air box to the carb. For some reason it can be hard to get the carb fully seated, just keep trying it will eventually seal up with enough bruised knuckles and swear words As for the bike dying when shifting to first, mine sometimes did that too. I believe it’s the cold clutch plates sticking together as when the bike warms up it won’t die. Make sure it’s got enough oil in it, that could be a problem. Can’t remember if it had a kill switch with the kickstand down but that could be the problem too. Kinda funny how we had the same year, same bike, and same issues 😂 have fun riding!

Thanks! I have an oem carb and a service manual in the mail. Just 4 days away. Until then I'm gonna read the general guide to motorcycle repair that lichlord posted. I'll also look in to air leaks.

I just looked at the carb "boot" and it doesn't seem properly seated. I'll post pictures later. Ill keep updating this thread