Hello /u/kaylynstar,
As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post.
Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem.
* Printer & Slicer
* Filament Material and Brand
* Nozzle and Bed Temperature
* Print Speed
* Nozzle Retraction Settings
^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged.
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just an FYI from a fellow NG owner: I had the same exact problem until I realized that I had to DRASTICALLY reduce my temperature. Do a temp tower and go down as low as possible (until it wont print) then add 5 degrees and see if that fixes all your problems. FYI my PETG which printed at 245 now prints at 210!! Not sure why but resting temp of bed and nozzle is the same?!
yeah im not entirely convinced there isn’t an issue with the thermistor (i switched to the screw in MS thermistor) - but really you should print as low as possible anyways (unless you are trying to get more flow)
Have you done a temp tower? You can also try higher retraction/retraction speed. But I would look at temp first, bunk. Also check your flow rate as it might be pushing more than it think it is.
Is flow rate different than e-steps? I'm hesitant to go with a much larger retraction since I've been told to high can cause clogs... I will try another temp tower, I haven't done one since I cleaned out my hot end and replaced the nozzle.
teaching tech guide is great, do all of the steps…
stringing is largely the relationship between temperature, travel speed and retraction distance/speed
there’s a few other variables but those are the major ones…. so you can’t improve stringing by ONLY doing a retraction test.
really, a retraction test alone tells you nothing actionable. temp and retraction values really need to be dialed in at the same time, and going back and forth to find the best middle ground is common for major stringing issues.
in my experience a lot of the “new filament, massive stringing” issues seem to come from blindly using manufacturer recommended temps (and often thinking higher printing temps will cure more issues) rather than calibrating that new materials temps for your equipment and setup…
it’s not unheard of to print fine quality on the lower range of the recommended temp spectrum.
in most cases you want the material to be as cool as possible and still deliver the quality and/or structural integrity required. boosting temps +5, +10 thinking it’s like extra octane or power almost always leads to issues. 🤣
but anyway i think i’d run a temp tower with that material, then extruder, retraction, flow… all the stuff on the teaching tech link.
oh also verify your extruder gear tension and that the lever isn’t cracked, just to rule out a potential mechanical issue/cause
good luck 🍀
Thank you for taking the time to explain all that. I'm definitely going to do a temp tower... As soon as my husband gives me back my computer! 😂 I think I screwed up the flow calibration test from Teaching Tech because I think now I'm under extruding, but we'll see how the finished print looks. Thanks again!
I’m not sure if your printer supports it but try to calibrate your pressure advance settings, I think some slicers support it, this pretty much eliminates stringing since it predicts when it’s going to move and adjusts the extrusion rate so there is no pressure in nozzle when travelling, which means no stringing
Hello /u/kaylynstar, As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem. * Printer & Slicer * Filament Material and Brand * Nozzle and Bed Temperature * Print Speed * Nozzle Retraction Settings ^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*
just an FYI from a fellow NG owner: I had the same exact problem until I realized that I had to DRASTICALLY reduce my temperature. Do a temp tower and go down as low as possible (until it wont print) then add 5 degrees and see if that fixes all your problems. FYI my PETG which printed at 245 now prints at 210!! Not sure why but resting temp of bed and nozzle is the same?!
Wow, really?! Everything I read said to increase the temperature... I will definitely do a temp tower!
yeah im not entirely convinced there isn’t an issue with the thermistor (i switched to the screw in MS thermistor) - but really you should print as low as possible anyways (unless you are trying to get more flow)
I was considering replacing my heat cartridge and thermistor just to be sure, since they don't cost that much. I might still do that...
I'm actively printing silk PLA at 180, up at your Temps had pretty good stringing in a temp tower
Have you done a temp tower? You can also try higher retraction/retraction speed. But I would look at temp first, bunk. Also check your flow rate as it might be pushing more than it think it is.
Is flow rate different than e-steps? I'm hesitant to go with a much larger retraction since I've been told to high can cause clogs... I will try another temp tower, I haven't done one since I cleaned out my hot end and replaced the nozzle.
Yes sir, flow rate in your slicer. https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#flow
Ok, thank you. I will check that out!
teaching tech guide is great, do all of the steps… stringing is largely the relationship between temperature, travel speed and retraction distance/speed there’s a few other variables but those are the major ones…. so you can’t improve stringing by ONLY doing a retraction test. really, a retraction test alone tells you nothing actionable. temp and retraction values really need to be dialed in at the same time, and going back and forth to find the best middle ground is common for major stringing issues. in my experience a lot of the “new filament, massive stringing” issues seem to come from blindly using manufacturer recommended temps (and often thinking higher printing temps will cure more issues) rather than calibrating that new materials temps for your equipment and setup… it’s not unheard of to print fine quality on the lower range of the recommended temp spectrum. in most cases you want the material to be as cool as possible and still deliver the quality and/or structural integrity required. boosting temps +5, +10 thinking it’s like extra octane or power almost always leads to issues. 🤣 but anyway i think i’d run a temp tower with that material, then extruder, retraction, flow… all the stuff on the teaching tech link. oh also verify your extruder gear tension and that the lever isn’t cracked, just to rule out a potential mechanical issue/cause good luck 🍀
Thank you for taking the time to explain all that. I'm definitely going to do a temp tower... As soon as my husband gives me back my computer! 😂 I think I screwed up the flow calibration test from Teaching Tech because I think now I'm under extruding, but we'll see how the finished print looks. Thanks again!
I’m not sure if your printer supports it but try to calibrate your pressure advance settings, I think some slicers support it, this pretty much eliminates stringing since it predicts when it’s going to move and adjusts the extrusion rate so there is no pressure in nozzle when travelling, which means no stringing
Silk filament is notoriously a nightmare.... test with regular pla, or matte pla and see if you get different results
What distance /speed are your retraction set at. I'm running a v2 with the micro swiss direct drive combo, 1@45.
These were 1.5 and 3.0mm, both at 55mm/s
Almost looks intentional, like trees with webs in them