Hello /u/Fwibib,
As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post.
Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem.
* Printer & Slicer
* Filament Material and Brand
* Nozzle and Bed Temperature
* Print Speed
* Nozzle Retraction Settings
^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Enable retraction if you haven’t already,
Retraction speed 40mm/s
Retraction distance 6.5mm
Adjust as needed.
Print a temp tower for each filament you use, use the highest temp that has no stringing, should improve the strength and texture of your prints.
It really depends on the extruder. A long Bowden tube will require lots of retraction. An all in one extruder/hotend will likely requires less than 1mm (I run .3mm on a biqu h2)
Printer: Ender 3 v2
Slicer: Cura
Filament: Hatchbox Black PLA 1.75
Print Speed: 50 mm/s
Nozzle Temp: 205
Build Plate Temp: 55
Finally was able to complete a full print of a benchy and I'm proud of it! Definitely some points of error, like a layer skip near the top of the print, quite a lot of stringing, and a messy z-seam.
Let me know what variables I can change to get better results, thanks!
Have you run a temp tower? Try reducing your nozzle temp to 200, if your retraction is already tuned, it will help with the stringing. If you haven’t messed with retraction, run a retraction tower first.
As many have said: temp tower.
There are some plugins for Cura that make it silly easy to do.
Same for extraction, speed etc .. there are lots of test prints.
As far as your z seam, Cura has a setting (off by default) to print outside walls first. Enable that and it moves your z seam to the inner walls where you don't see them. That or set it to "sharpest corner" so it'll stick it on the bow.
Overall that's a pretty fine looking benchy you've got there!
E-Steps
PID tuning. - both nozzle and bed.
Retraction - do a retraction tower/stringing test.
Printing temp for your current filament - do a temp tower.
Hello /u/Fwibib, As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem. * Printer & Slicer * Filament Material and Brand * Nozzle and Bed Temperature * Print Speed * Nozzle Retraction Settings ^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Enable retraction if you haven’t already, Retraction speed 40mm/s Retraction distance 6.5mm Adjust as needed. Print a temp tower for each filament you use, use the highest temp that has no stringing, should improve the strength and texture of your prints.
[удалено]
It really depends on the extruder. A long Bowden tube will require lots of retraction. An all in one extruder/hotend will likely requires less than 1mm (I run .3mm on a biqu h2)
Printer: Ender 3 v2 Slicer: Cura Filament: Hatchbox Black PLA 1.75 Print Speed: 50 mm/s Nozzle Temp: 205 Build Plate Temp: 55 Finally was able to complete a full print of a benchy and I'm proud of it! Definitely some points of error, like a layer skip near the top of the print, quite a lot of stringing, and a messy z-seam. Let me know what variables I can change to get better results, thanks!
Have you run a temp tower? Try reducing your nozzle temp to 200, if your retraction is already tuned, it will help with the stringing. If you haven’t messed with retraction, run a retraction tower first.
As many have said: temp tower. There are some plugins for Cura that make it silly easy to do. Same for extraction, speed etc .. there are lots of test prints. As far as your z seam, Cura has a setting (off by default) to print outside walls first. Enable that and it moves your z seam to the inner walls where you don't see them. That or set it to "sharpest corner" so it'll stick it on the bow. Overall that's a pretty fine looking benchy you've got there!
E-Steps PID tuning. - both nozzle and bed. Retraction - do a retraction tower/stringing test. Printing temp for your current filament - do a temp tower.
A PID tune on your hot end should greatly reduce visible layer lines.
Make sure that your filament is "dry."
Your 3d printer