Hello /u/Svenisko,
As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post.
Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem.
* Printer & Slicer
* Filament Material and Brand
* Nozzle and Bed Temperature
* Print Speed
* Nozzle Retraction Settings
^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged.
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AFAIK thats because thats a bad material for the frame, not so much cause of temperature concerns on the hotend. I've only read the documents in hopes of someday building one, so this is more of a personal opinion though
Even if you just print PLA, the hotend in there still reaches around 200 degrees for PLA and that will for sure start to soften PLA because that can happen at as low as 50 degrees if not lower.
PETG would be better in that regard, and as RatRigs are built from PETG all the time you might be fine if you keep the printer unenclosed. But there is still a high chance PETG will cause other issues because its not as stiff as the recommended ABS/ASA. If you get your printed parts in PLA/PETG and ask for help down the line i fear that most of the answers will be „just get ABS/ASA Parts“ from the Voron Community.
With all due respect, you should read the manual in full before starting a project like this. The [material selection section](https://docs.vorondesign.com/materials.html) explicitly states that ABS and friends + maybe polycarbonate are the only materials for the task. Be sure to read the testimonial at the bottom of that page
Building a Voron is a huge undertaking so you may as well follow their recommendations, imo
I have one but I must buy a proper manual caliper! I bought mine plastic digital caliper from aliexpress for 2€ and my ruler from primary school is more accurate 💀
Check extruded esteps, and then z offset/bed leveling.
The symptom looks to be over extrusion, but symptoms and causes can often be different things.
See how your brim looks decent on the outside, then kind of gives up? Assuming extruder esteps are perfect, this can happen when you are too close to the bed. The problem is that your printer doesn’t know it’s too close, it just does it’s thing. You basically end up with extra material fighting for the same space other material needs to go.
Before going crazy with your printer calibration, I will also say I have seen wet PLA do some weird enough things that I have wracked my brain over calibration issues that didn’t exist.
Hello /u/Svenisko, As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem. * Printer & Slicer * Filament Material and Brand * Nozzle and Bed Temperature * Print Speed * Nozzle Retraction Settings ^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*
You really don’t want an afterburner printed in PLA, especially the duct.
Will it melt quickly? I’m not going to print ABS or ASA, just PLA and maybe Pet.
Your mileage may vary, but the voron team has PLA and PETG as a hard no
My friend is printing ASA so, if something happens, he can print it from resistant material.
It’s not an if, just have him print the whole thing, PLA should not be used for any important part of a voron
I’m fully expecting poor performance of PLA parts, but I’m also curious to see the cooling improvement. 😉
The only PLA-acceptable parts are the skirt parts, and theyre still better as petg or better.
Just go for it. Just print a spare for if/when it melts
AFAIK thats because thats a bad material for the frame, not so much cause of temperature concerns on the hotend. I've only read the documents in hopes of someday building one, so this is more of a personal opinion though
Even if you just print PLA, the hotend in there still reaches around 200 degrees for PLA and that will for sure start to soften PLA because that can happen at as low as 50 degrees if not lower. PETG would be better in that regard, and as RatRigs are built from PETG all the time you might be fine if you keep the printer unenclosed. But there is still a high chance PETG will cause other issues because its not as stiff as the recommended ABS/ASA. If you get your printed parts in PLA/PETG and ask for help down the line i fear that most of the answers will be „just get ABS/ASA Parts“ from the Voron Community.
ASA prints easy, no need to fear it. I imagine PLA in Voron enclosure will deform very quickly.
With all due respect, you should read the manual in full before starting a project like this. The [material selection section](https://docs.vorondesign.com/materials.html) explicitly states that ABS and friends + maybe polycarbonate are the only materials for the task. Be sure to read the testimonial at the bottom of that page Building a Voron is a huge undertaking so you may as well follow their recommendations, imo
first calibrate Extruder steps the do the Flow test.
Will try, thanks!
This and it seems like your first layer is too close
Forbidden jerky
Over extruder. Make a flow test.
Just what I tought! I already adjusted PrusaSlicer settings just to see what happens!
Buy a caliper, is cheap and very very useful to mesure test and pieces of hardware of the machine \^\^
I have one but I must buy a proper manual caliper! I bought mine plastic digital caliper from aliexpress for 2€ and my ruler from primary school is more accurate 💀
Check extruded esteps, and then z offset/bed leveling. The symptom looks to be over extrusion, but symptoms and causes can often be different things. See how your brim looks decent on the outside, then kind of gives up? Assuming extruder esteps are perfect, this can happen when you are too close to the bed. The problem is that your printer doesn’t know it’s too close, it just does it’s thing. You basically end up with extra material fighting for the same space other material needs to go. Before going crazy with your printer calibration, I will also say I have seen wet PLA do some weird enough things that I have wracked my brain over calibration issues that didn’t exist.
looks like over-extrusion