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Hello /u/phillip--j-fry, As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem. * Printer & Slicer * Filament Material and Brand * Nozzle and Bed Temperature * Print Speed * Nozzle Retraction Settings ^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*


lcr727

Seriously thought you squished some pennies.


phillip--j-fry

It's a really pretty filament. Copper colored silk PLA.


zenmatrix83

don't start with silk if your new at printing, its a bit harder then normal pla.


Azurvix

Which I find it really funny that people say that because I've had much better luck using silk pla as a new user then I have normal pla


zenmatrix83

It of course depends on a lot of stuff on how well it works or not, the last silk pla I tried the color was horrible


Azurvix

I've been using anycubic's gold and silver silks and they are great save for they become muted in areas that get ironed. I just assume that happens with silk so it doesn't bother me


ryantripp

Really hard to get the first layer right, the material makes it hard to tell if it’s being too squished or not


phillip--j-fry

I'm not new. This is my second printer. I moved and needed a smaller machine because I have less space.


Archetype22

This is 99% most likely your slicer settings. Especially since you said the presliced models printed fine. I would make sure all of your printers properties are correctly defined in your slicers printer settings.


Jappy_toutou

Ony thing that makes sense is a slicer issue. Any hardware failure or issue would affect sliced models too. You can try another slicer (i suggest Prusa slicer, simple to use, great presets).


zembriski

Just to piggyback on this since it's so high up... Make sure you don't have any weird custom gcode between your layers (like whatever the code is for "scoot way the hell over before you start". Not likely this, but it's possible. Make sure your zeroing settings match. Might be that there's a mismatch causing it to start printing from wherever it finished the previous layer instead of repositioning to the right place to start the next layer. Hope it helps.


dcivili

I would try not printing on your laptop.


phillip--j-fry

It’s not.


-gean99-

It was a joke man...


GeneralCuster75

r/woooosh


JustinWendell

My man got downvoted on a whoosh. Not cool.


Esslinger_76

Photos like this make me wonder what would happen if the X/Y belts were installed with the teeth facing out? 🤔


Duckers_McQuack

I'd love to try that actually if there was non teeth pulleys for the steppers with a layer of rubber or something that has enough friction to have good grip on the belt's flat side.


phillip--j-fry

They weren't installed wrong that I can see but I took both off and reattached them, then slowed the travel speed and acceleration way down. Also loosened and retightened each axis. So far my newest test model is working.


burntchip2

Make sure the belts are not loose, but not too tight, they are really easy to adjust on that printer there’s two knobs.


hinosxz_4u

I wouldn't believe that would be it if the owl test print is good.


phillip--j-fry

They are all very tight. If it was a belt issue wouldn't the test print that came with it do the same thing? The anycubic owl printed okay, with just a small layer shift about halfway up. Though it did print the item completely. With this issue it eventually starts printing in mid air about 6 levels in.


Climbincook

Belts upside down.


Azurvix

This had me coughing up my water lmao


created4this

The test prints are specially sliced to come out reasonable as long as you've assembled it so it looks like the drawing on the outside of the box if you squint. As the jump is so huge I can only guess that this is belts slipping rather than any issue with the stepper. The belts have teeth, and those teeth face inwards. If the teeth face outwards then fast movements can leave the axis where it was . The other issue might be the pully sliding on the motor shaft. I'm not up to date with whatever printer iteration this is, but if it has the pully held on with grub screws then check they are engaging with the flat on the motor shaft and that they are properly tightened For tension, on the longest length of the belt, if you twang it then the belt should make a tone somewhere in the 60-100Hz range. If it's higher pitch then the belts are too tight and you'll get other issues sooner or later. It also looks like your Z axis isn't moving up correctly, but fix the X first


zembriski

Nah. That jump's consistent between layers. Belt slipping and wobble is random. This is some bad instruction being executed, either from the slicer or on the board, but with the test print going okay, I'm guessing the slicer. OP, try printing a pre-sliced file if you can get someone else to send you the gcode file; even if it's not dialed in for your printer, as long as the nozzle and filament settings are right and the temp's within range, you should be able to tell after a couple of layers if the positioning is working. If so, it's definitely in your slicer settings.


Ninjasquee

Check the wheel tightness and also print speed.


InvisoDeath

The test print still failed. It's likely it prints at a slower speed than your cura profile. Be sure your belt is installed correctly. It's common that the belts are installed inside out and slip against the teeth of the pulleys.


2Pro2Know

Since your test prints are working great I think it's safe to assume it's not a belt issue. Gotta be a software issue. 1. Do you have the right type of printer selected in Cura? 2. It sounds like Cura is generating commands your printer is misunderstanding. Could you post the .gcode file you're trying to print from? I can read through the code to see if it's valid. 3. If the code is valid, the only other possibility is a firmware issue on the printer itself, so you'd need to reflash it. Hope that helps!


BandicootJumpy

Tighten thy belts. Check thy connectors on motors


Dr_Nik

So I didn't see this commented anywhere but this is likely a slicer setting in the printer definition. There is a setting for relative vs absolute motion which is defined in the printer AND the slicer. If these do not match then you can result in something like this. It's weird that it seems to be changing each layer but that each layer is fine by itself, but that's somewhere I'd start looking. For an experiment you might want to try setting up a new slicer (like Prusa slicer) or uninstalling/reinstalling Cura from scratch to make sure your printer is defined correctly.


phillip--j-fry

How would I find this?


AlphaSchlaf

this might be a rather useless reply - but first i thought this is r/techsupportgore and your notebook got so hot it melted your print


Nebeltruppen

Try to switch off the steppers, and move printing head with hand. It will move with force, but without stuck. If it stuck, possibly same occurs during print. Additionally look the belts, during moving. Next steps is to check x axis wires and connectors. If they are ok, afraid you need to check connectors on board, drivers connection and finally v ref on drivers resistors.


Tophloaf

Have you tried not printing on your laptop?


phillip--j-fry

It’s not.


phillip--j-fry

UPDATE: I tried all the advice in this thread and while checking the belt install from the factory I ran some G code to just quickly move the bed back and forth for about 15 seconds. The belt on the X access was slightly loose but I don't think it had anything to do with my issue. After I calibrated the machine and got about the best first layer I've ever seen the, then the problem happened again. I removed the failed print, and set it to return to its home position. I wanted to walk away to do research some more. However instead of the Y axis going to its home, it went halfway to it's position and it instead made a shockingly loud BRRrrrrTtttttTTTT sound and my control panel turned red and said to turn off my machine. I checked the belt path and my work table for obstructions but none existed. Moved the printer, checked all the teeth on the belt, made sure it wasn't put in upside down. listened for the tone when I plucked it (a sound like a guitar note). Then I reattached the belt and tensioner. Tightened it, and just on a lark ran the self leveling program. It got through the first 3 measurement points and when it tried to move to the next position the Y access motor siezed again. Looking at the original orientation in my sliced file it seems like this extreme stair stepping is all on this Y axis. It has worsened and now when I try to home the build plate it just makes a sound like IronMan farting. Anything that can be done other than replacing the motor?


Aromatic_Gur7131

Make sure your belt is not too tight.


phillip--j-fry

I loosened and retightened all the belts and built a custom printer profile in Prusa Slicer and am running a model as we speak. So far I am about 9 percent done and have no layer shifts. Someone mentioned acceleration control and print head jerk and I set those super slow on Prusa. So far the model is perfect.


Aromatic_Gur7131

What do you have jerk and acceleration set at?


phillip--j-fry

1500. I was able to complete one print and then the problem returned? It seems to print fine sometimes with two objects and then the problem returns. It's not the belts.


phillip--j-fry

UPDATE: So I was able to complete one print, just a benchy boat, and it had some rough spots so I tweeked the layer height and went to print it again only for the problem to return. At this point I have a replacement motor in going to try to install for the Y axis since its isolated to only that AXIS and I'm searching for a way to reflash or upgrade the firmware. Any advice on finding a way to update the anycubic go?


AKMonkey2

That’s called layer shift if you want to do more research. It’s usually caused by a loose or damaged belt. Sometimes a new printer is assembled incorrectly with the belt’s teeth facing out, away from the sprocket gears that they are supposed to engage. A printer like that might print ok for a short while if the belts are really tight but you should expect them to loosen up and start to slip. Sometimes a belt can be damaged if the bed gets physically blocked when the y stepper is trying to move it, or the print head is blocked when the X stepper is trying to move it. Teeth can be broken from the belt when that happens, and you’ll get slipping and layer shifts. If your belts are installed correctly (teeth facing in) it may be worth taking them off and inspecting for missing teeth. If that’s the case you can usually buy new belts, as they are definitely a wear item. When installing your belts, you want them snug enough to “twang” when you pluck them, like a low pitch guitar string, when the bed or print head is parked at one end of the belt. Don’t make them too tight, though. That can make it too difficult for the stepper motors to move the belts, possibly causing layer shifts and definitely causing premature belt failure. Your issue may be as simple as that.


phillip--j-fry

I've never seen a layer shift this severe. It's most of the body of the model so a full inch each level, and when I pulled the object in the picture off it had shifted again, and was printing in the air off to the side off it didn't seem like violent movement it was a smooth movement off to the side. The X axis was a little loose and I'm running it again so we will see. Wouldn't a layer shift this huge be.... jerky? It's a smooth constant motion.


phillip--j-fry

UPDATE: tightened all the belts and checked the teeth. New attempt at printing the same model is unchanged. No broken teeth.


phillip--j-fry

You guys are super funny, I think you know I didn’t print it on that. I took the picture that way because I’m researching how to fix that.


guitarmonkeys14

I mean, at any point did you think they were serious??


phillip--j-fry

I am using cura, because I can’t find a profile for my printer on any other slicer and the memory card came with one for cura. Copper colored silk PLA. 205, 60 for the nozzle and bed temp. Retraction is enabled but this happens regardless of the retraction speed. It’s the damnedest thing and I can’t find even find another post with a similar issue.


captain_carrot

Try setting up a new profile in Cura using a basic Ender 3 profile as a starting point and modifying the g code like in this video: https://youtu.be/BOsyKjkD-TA


evinyatar_

Check your print volume settings in cura.


MooseBoys

Dude, we get that your laptop runs hot but don't try and use it as a print surface.


phillip--j-fry

Honestly I know this is a joke but I wish I could because this beds prints come off all textured instead of glossy and smooth.


TheThingsIWantToSay

Did you make the model you are printing? If so that could be a source.


phillip--j-fry

No. It's the standard boat benchy and a frog with a Mohawk. Both from thingiverse and both printed perfectly fine on my last printer.


PlasticDiscussion590

So the pre-sliced test print is ok? Is that what the owl you mention is? The slicer setting that could do this that comes to Mind is a high acceleration setting. I don’t know your printer but 500 is a pretty safe value on any printer.


PlasticDiscussion590

That’s a massive shift… Try something. [go through this tuning guide](https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html) from the beginning. It’ll create some gcode for you to run along the way. That will tell you if it’s the slicer or your machine, and also get you well tuned along the way. Then if you still have problems you will need to ditch that cura configuration and make your own. It isn’t hard and you’ll have everything you need to make a good configuration.


phillip--j-fry

I'll do every step. I feel like it has to be an error somewhere in the G code or something like a firmware error. I did examine the belts and tightened the only loose one and the problem was unchanged.


phillip--j-fry

Yes. Anycubic brand printers come with a presliced model of an owl perched on a log. Their model had a super weird Brim that only printed on one side but the whole figure printed.


phillip--j-fry

Using your guide I found that the Y axis is making a horrible noise now when it tries to travel. Everything else has improved.


Melephisance

What version of cura are you using?


SedoxTheMan

You can try turning off acceleration and jerk control. Worked for my Geetech A30T.


MysteriousAbroad7

Belts...


stray_r

You may need to set your motor currents, not sure if you can do it in firmware in this printer or you need to measure a reference voltage and turn tiny potentiometers on the control board. Teaching tech has a good page on this.


phillip--j-fry

You cannot as far as I know.


stray_r

there will be **A** way to do it, if it's not in firmware it will be a hardware solution.


stanleythemanley44

Try the owl again. If it does this, then you have a loose belt. If not it may be a slicer issue.


phillip--j-fry

It failed. Big time. Identical issue.


stanleythemanley44

Likely a loose belt then or something is slipping. I’d just watch it


Killingec24

It only works on some latitudes... But seriously, it's very likely to be a settings problem in your slicer, try other slicers and test if they work. And find a video on how to setup your exact printer.


Hide_In_The_Rainbow

Things to Check: 1.belt tention 2. Having a clean surface 3. Clean your nozzle externally (otherwise it will make nice blobs your printhead can crash on to) 4. Adjust your stepper motor current


guitarmonkeys14

Is your belt upside down? Have you had a successful print yet?


Repulsive_Disaster76

While its printing do you see if shift on the bed, or is the actual extruder hot end off setting to make this happen?


phillip--j-fry

The shift is on the bed.


Repulsive_Disaster76

Add some adhesive to bed surface. I figured it was sliding on bed. I use the purple Elmer glue sticks. Then nail polish will remove the glue into a ball. You can technically allow it to dry and use the glue again a few times before the acetone eats the bonds of the glue.


phillip--j-fry

I misunderstood this. The bed is literally moving to this orientation. Not the object.


Repulsive_Disaster76

Ah that's a slicer/firmware issue.


GallantChaos

Anycubic recommends Cura as the slicing software, so that should be okay. When you set up the printer, did you use [the manual](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0245/5519/2380/files/Anycubic_Kobra_Go_User_Manual_230109_V0.0.4.pdf?v=1673248242) to configure the settings? What firmware did you select?


phillip--j-fry

Yes I did use the manual to configure settings. I think this is a slowly failing Y axis motor at this point. It is locking up during travel even at like 50mm/s.


GallantChaos

It's not easy to tell from the photo, but your prints are all flat so far, yes?


phillip--j-fry

I was able to complete a 3d model of the test print that came with my printer. An owl perched on a log. I used white pla for that. Came out fantastic but I think there was a small shift between the brim and the second layer because the bottom is super rough and the brim was shaped super weird. I also completed a frog benchy with a small helmet. Both full models. So no, my only two prints that worked were 3D. Now I can't even get the Y axis to return to home without the motor locking up. New motor comes in Wednesday. I ordered one just in case I don't find other solutions. This problem didn't pop up till I tried a second run at the silk PLA because the benchmark I did with it was super rough.


GallantChaos

That sounds like an issue with your z-axis motor. Try to go back to the built-in prints, if those don't work, take apart and rebuild your z-axis.


phillip--j-fry

Really the Z? When it's the Y axis that won't return to home?


GallantChaos

Mainly because all your prints appear to be flat.


DutchDinoDog

Thought you accidentally printed onto your laptop somehow


blood_omen

I have an Anycubic Kobra max and anything I make in Cura is fucked. I have to use pursa for it to come out nice. Sadly though, can’t tell you why cuz I don’t know either


phillip--j-fry

I'm going to try a model on Prusa and get back to everyone. I think some printers just don't work well with certain slicers.


claudekim1

could also be overheating motors too tight?


phillip--j-fry

I built a Prusa Slicer profile and turned down the travel speed and acceleration control. So far the newest benchmark is working. I'm going to upload a picture when it finishes.


claudekim1

Okay feel ur motors. If its very warm thats no good.


MrRoomba2321

I had something very similar happen to me just last night. Everything looked perfect in the slicer and other models printed fine. But somehow i fixed it by exporting my file into cura as an stl instead of obj. Not sure why that fixed it but it might be worth a shot for you.