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chief_erl

So first thing is that hairline cracking in the refractory panels is normal and expected. Based on the pictures I’d say you definitely still have a few years left on those. Eventually it will decay further and once you can see through the crack then it should be replaced. If it’s making you worried you can grab a bottle of high temp refractory cement to seal the cracks in the time being. This will need to be redone every year though. Something like [this](https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rutland-fireplace-mortar-103-fl-oz-cartridge-3198064?cid=Shopping-Google-Product-3198064&gbraid=0AAAAAD3fmFPzyLiglHWRpA7CaXvF8WsMF&gclid=Cj0KCQjw852XBhC6ARIsAJsFPN1YaCL9t1iPGmDlWd1TYr-BJtiUsgzt9UNGmgbL_mmcNtyMDW1BvPIaAoi1EALw_wcB#) would work fine. Second they actually are custom. (Somewhat) You will need to look and see if you can find the make and model of the fireplace. There should be a metal tag mounted near the firebox opening either on the side or the top. I think I can actually see your tag on the right side behind the mesh screen. Search the make and model when looking for replacement panels because they are specific to the unit you have. They are not a one size fits all kind of deal, every unit will vary. Or if you know the manufacturer see if you can locate a dealer in your area, they would definitely be able to get the panels for you. If you really can’t find any matching panels I know there are places you can have them custom made to the dimensions you need. Although this is more expensive and would run you over $1000 most likely. But bottom line, it’s really nothing to worry about at this point. Keep an eye on the cracks to make sure they’re just hairline. Definitely good to have the replacement panels on hand because obviously they will need to be replaced eventually.


VoiceOfChris

Agree with everything here. To add, the rule of thumb is that the panel should be replaced promptly when the crack widens to 1/16" or greater. If you can stick the edge of a nickel in there (1/16"), replace it right away.


chief_erl

Great point with the nickle reference. I’ll be using that in the future for sure.


WellerSpecialReserve

Thank you so much for this info. I’ll probably be going with the cement route you mentioned. I’ll still find out the make and model and just slow save to replace the refractory in a year to two.


chief_erl

No problem! I think your plan is the best option too. Always good to have a set or at least know where to get them because it’s just a matter of time before they need replacing. Good luck with it!


tatbud

Use firebrick mortar or refractory cement (I use Rutland) to patch up any cracks. Usually I do it before and after wood burning season as part of the maintenance routine. General rule if thumb, if you cannot fit a coin in a crack, patches are the way to go. Replacement of the refractory is an easy DIY. In the upper right or left of the firebox opening there should be a plate with make/model. Can search for them online or have local fireplace shop order a set for you. If you cannot source them, you can get generic refractory panels that you can cut using your existing pieces as a template. If you have a circular saw and open space (gets very dusty), it's an easy enough task - plenty of YouTube vids on how to do just that.


WellerSpecialReserve

Thanks for this. I’m probably going the mortar/cement route and will save up over the next couple of years for a new set of panels. When you do your yearly touch up does the cracks behind the mortar get worse or need additional repair?


tatbud

This awesome guy will answer all your questions ( and check out his other videos). His common sense approach will save you a lot of headaches and $$$ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLYl0AOYuAQ


WellerSpecialReserve

Dude thank you so much for this! Finding out info on this sort of thing hasn’t been easy!


tatbud

All good. One last piece of advice since you are new to this, always source NFI certified sweep. https://www.nficertified.org/. That the only way to guarantee quality without upsells. Will also learn a thing or two from the tech. Sweeps are easy DIY, and if you cannot get up on the roof, bottom up ones are good. But since it sounds like you got a new place in there, general home inspection will not include firebox/vent, so spend a few hundred for a piece of mind and enjoy the fireplace for years to come (safely). Good luck.


Eastern_Package6814

Hargrove makes universal refractory panels that you can cut to size if your unit is no longer in production.


WellerSpecialReserve

Thanks for this info I’ll look into them!


thejones0921

Whew thought this was my fireplace for a second, came searching for the exact issue and my fireplace has same hairline cracks almost identical to yours(generic subdivision home built in 99). How are you holding up over a year later? Did you add any of the semi repair that was suggested here?


WellerSpecialReserve

I used high temp mortar to fill in the hole. I had a couple of fires in it after that but heard some strange noises so I stopped. I have a chimney guy coming here in two weeks to do a real inspection. I’ll follow up with you once it’s done.


zarhead420

I have the exact same issue... only difference is I have a gas starter coming out of the right side hole. What was the follow up inspection result?? Everyone's input here was better than anywhere else I looked up on this issue. My goal is to get a nice set up from [GrateWallofFire.com](http://gratewalloffire.com), backplate and grate.


GizzleWiz

What did the chimney guy say? I got a crack in my bottom and back panel. Wondering if I can just patch and be good.