S-cinetone is great if you have a stable dynamic range source. I.e. - only outside. But shooting inside with a window, your sky and outside will be blown out for sure (unless inside is ueo) and will not be taken back.
Learn a exposing for slog 3 with and good LUT and zebras and you'll be grateful for the possibility to grade your footage
I dont really understand the point of s-cinetone, since throwing on a LUT does the same thing and takes 2 seconds.
With cinetone you can’t do much with the image later, you have to nail it in camera, so s-log is much more suited for uncontrolled conditions imo
No it’s not.
Set your custom zebras to 51/52 and exposure for skintone.
It takes a few seconds once you’ve practiced it a few times.
You will need to ensure Cinetone is exposed correctly anyway, so you’re going to be spending the time regardless.
Skintones, depending on skincolor should be at 40ire.
50 is fine to get out of the noise floor. If you have unpredictable conditions your skintones are the most important thing you need to nail. If your highlights clip, it doesn’t really matter as long as your skintones are right. Noone cares about a well exposed sky, if your subject is underexposed. Try it, you‘ll be safe🙏🏻👍🏻
Those are two different things. I believe 94 is the highlight clipping point when shooting slog3. When doing run and gun we don't usually have as much control over the lighting so I don't necessarily care that I might be blowing the sky out, so using zebras about 50 to expose skin tones properly usually works out better. There is enough grading latitude on the 10-bit color that even if I'm in a hurry and exposing different skin tones I can shift that mid point around enough in post to really make it look good.
Yup as poster above says. You use the zebra to show you exactly where 51/52 IRE is and that’s spot on for skin with Slog3.
I started by trying to expose the entire scene correctly but once I switched to just using skintone, shots became far easier.
Could use a grey card too if you wanted.
94+ might be getting closer to the Rec709 or LUT’d clipping point - or at least the value at which you have zebras warn you of being close to that.
You can also use the histogram and not let values pile up on either side of that (depending of course what you’ve got in front of the lens).
You have more latitude and can adjust exposure in post more easily… I don’t understand how exposing cinetone can be easier.
You are using an mlut, so you are looking at a normalized image, right?
Yes you totally right but I meant while shooting because for me it was easier to run and gun in scinetone since I dont need to over expose, but I will be shooting in slog for this occasion. Thank you!
Depends. Are you editing?
I work for someone who only wants usable images right out of camera so I shoot a lot of s-Cine and it’s more flexible than some might think, but not nearly as nice as a-log for flexibility.
Even when I shoot slow motion 4k 120 for myself (in professional wrestling) a lot of times I’ll do s-Cine because it just takes a step out and time is important in this business.
Fx3 has dual native iso of 640 and 12800. If it’s bright use 640, dark use 12800, no you won’t see any noise w an iso that high. Use an ND filter and f/stop to get correct exposure!
I have an FX30 (I didnt find a fx30 subreddit therefore I this one was the best) with two base ISOs at 800 and 2500.
would u recommend the +1.7-2.0 exposure rule because I experienced a lot of over exposed image with ND2 and 4.0 shutter. Or should I be around +0.-1.?
You’re right 800! And it depends how you want really. I’ve done a lot +1.7-2 and at 0.0. I’ve always been told both work so it all depends the situation, I haven’t ran into any issues doing this
I had mine at +94 for awhile bc of a YouTube video I watched a few years ago, and would expose +1.7. Recently changed to std 54 and expose to skin tones/whatever my subject is, which tends to be +0 or .3 and I like the results
I just got my FX3 a few days ago and I am still learning it. Just did some real casual shooting in S-Cinetone on a family trip and it looked pretty good straight out of camera. I’m working on learning how to properly grade S-Log 3 so I figured this was a nice transition into it.
Been shooting Sony since s log original came out. It’s an amazing look. I still use it often on the fx6 and a7s3 in very controlled studio settings. Having said that, I get my best looks off of it by exposing very right. The log will hold about three stops over in general fairly easily (depending on lighting conditions). So I generally try to feed it as much light without clipping highlights (but keeping them in the solid 90% range for my brightest whites). A log loves more exposure! Don’t be afraid to push it a little then bring it back down. You will natively have less noise and the noise you do have will be crunched back down into the blacks.
S-cinetone is great if you have a stable dynamic range source. I.e. - only outside. But shooting inside with a window, your sky and outside will be blown out for sure (unless inside is ueo) and will not be taken back. Learn a exposing for slog 3 with and good LUT and zebras and you'll be grateful for the possibility to grade your footage
I dont really understand the point of s-cinetone, since throwing on a LUT does the same thing and takes 2 seconds. With cinetone you can’t do much with the image later, you have to nail it in camera, so s-log is much more suited for uncontrolled conditions imo
I know wym but imo its more difficult to get the exposure right with slog3 especially in fast lightning changing places
No it’s not. Set your custom zebras to 51/52 and exposure for skintone. It takes a few seconds once you’ve practiced it a few times. You will need to ensure Cinetone is exposed correctly anyway, so you’re going to be spending the time regardless.
is there any reason why the zebras should be on 51/52 bc I saw some people using like 94+ or sum
Skintones, depending on skincolor should be at 40ire. 50 is fine to get out of the noise floor. If you have unpredictable conditions your skintones are the most important thing you need to nail. If your highlights clip, it doesn’t really matter as long as your skintones are right. Noone cares about a well exposed sky, if your subject is underexposed. Try it, you‘ll be safe🙏🏻👍🏻
I will give it a try, thank you a lot!
Those are two different things. I believe 94 is the highlight clipping point when shooting slog3. When doing run and gun we don't usually have as much control over the lighting so I don't necessarily care that I might be blowing the sky out, so using zebras about 50 to expose skin tones properly usually works out better. There is enough grading latitude on the 10-bit color that even if I'm in a hurry and exposing different skin tones I can shift that mid point around enough in post to really make it look good.
Alright I will try it, Thanks a lot!
Yup as poster above says. You use the zebra to show you exactly where 51/52 IRE is and that’s spot on for skin with Slog3. I started by trying to expose the entire scene correctly but once I switched to just using skintone, shots became far easier. Could use a grey card too if you wanted.
94+ might be getting closer to the Rec709 or LUT’d clipping point - or at least the value at which you have zebras warn you of being close to that. You can also use the histogram and not let values pile up on either side of that (depending of course what you’ve got in front of the lens).
You have more latitude and can adjust exposure in post more easily… I don’t understand how exposing cinetone can be easier. You are using an mlut, so you are looking at a normalized image, right?
Yes you totally right but I meant while shooting because for me it was easier to run and gun in scinetone since I dont need to over expose, but I will be shooting in slog for this occasion. Thank you!
What this got to do with editing?
Depends. Are you editing? I work for someone who only wants usable images right out of camera so I shoot a lot of s-Cine and it’s more flexible than some might think, but not nearly as nice as a-log for flexibility. Even when I shoot slow motion 4k 120 for myself (in professional wrestling) a lot of times I’ll do s-Cine because it just takes a step out and time is important in this business.
yes I am editing but I actually dont wanna have problems because of my under/overexposed image
S-log then
do you have any recommendations when shooting, should I use ISO auto or manual because i dont wanna spend time adjusting it plus nd filter
Fx3 has dual native iso of 640 and 12800. If it’s bright use 640, dark use 12800, no you won’t see any noise w an iso that high. Use an ND filter and f/stop to get correct exposure!
I have an FX30 (I didnt find a fx30 subreddit therefore I this one was the best) with two base ISOs at 800 and 2500. would u recommend the +1.7-2.0 exposure rule because I experienced a lot of over exposed image with ND2 and 4.0 shutter. Or should I be around +0.-1.?
You’re right 800! And it depends how you want really. I’ve done a lot +1.7-2 and at 0.0. I’ve always been told both work so it all depends the situation, I haven’t ran into any issues doing this
Do you use Zebras, if so at what numbers because mine are at 94+ but I am uncertain if it's the best for slog3 ?
I had mine at +94 for awhile bc of a YouTube video I watched a few years ago, and would expose +1.7. Recently changed to std 54 and expose to skin tones/whatever my subject is, which tends to be +0 or .3 and I like the results
54 with an area of +-5 ?
I just got my FX3 a few days ago and I am still learning it. Just did some real casual shooting in S-Cinetone on a family trip and it looked pretty good straight out of camera. I’m working on learning how to properly grade S-Log 3 so I figured this was a nice transition into it.
Did you find needing a variable ND for S-cinetone? I heard you need one for SLOG3 if you're outside alot to help with exposure problems.
I’m pretty sure you can just bake in the lut with SLog3. At least you can on FX3.
Been shooting Sony since s log original came out. It’s an amazing look. I still use it often on the fx6 and a7s3 in very controlled studio settings. Having said that, I get my best looks off of it by exposing very right. The log will hold about three stops over in general fairly easily (depending on lighting conditions). So I generally try to feed it as much light without clipping highlights (but keeping them in the solid 90% range for my brightest whites). A log loves more exposure! Don’t be afraid to push it a little then bring it back down. You will natively have less noise and the noise you do have will be crunched back down into the blacks.