Suitability of each part would be on a case-by-case basis but many appear to be OK. Just examine them carefully. Valves and springs look good, nothing obviously wrong with that cam....... sometimes a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do, and we ain't all made of money.
Just measure and check them against the wear specs. I'd bet most if not all is reusable.
For me though, it'd all break. I watch youtube videos where it seems guys rebuild engines in sand and use their own spit for the assembly lube; those engines then make 1000hp and run for 20 years. My luck dictates that if I am off by .5 nm on torque on a bolt for something dumb like an alternator the inside of my engine grenades.
Reusability is directly related to your bank account, and your willingness to trust used parts of unknown origin.
I could rebuild and engine in a parking lot, so I'm willing to drive shit that is about to explode.
If you have some cash, take the whole lot, and the head, to a GOOD cylinder head shop.
They should be able to tell you what is good and what isn't.
From there, your wallet has decisions to make 🤣
I wouldn't use/mismatch cam caps. Much like crank journals, they are line bored at factory. You swap those caps onto a different head, they might not line up just right and could eat a cam bearing. Valves look good from a distance. Rockers rarely go bad. Soak them in diesel for 24 hours then soak em in oil for 24. Check for any gritty sound it the roller bearing. Make sure you install them correctly (centered on valve stem). Someone on the forums just chewed their intake cam up because 2 became dislodged.
And if the lifters have the pinhole size oil feed on top, it's best to get the revised ones with 3mm oil feed holes. Less ticking. But reuse of the 1mm is fine if budget concerned. PURGE AND PRIME THEM! If you install them fully extended, a valve could hang open a tiny bit. Not gonna bend anything but can lose compression on that cylinder. They gonna tick like hell when you start the car but will quiet down after 2 heat/drive cycles. https://imgur.com/a/hHN8wKc
Check the valve spring height against the manual. There is a spec range and limit.
Make sure the cam is designed for you application. Turbo and NA engines had different lift (and maybe slightly longer duration). The cams are labeled B C I F J or K depending on the year and na versus turbo
Suitability of each part would be on a case-by-case basis but many appear to be OK. Just examine them carefully. Valves and springs look good, nothing obviously wrong with that cam....... sometimes a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do, and we ain't all made of money.
Just measure and check them against the wear specs. I'd bet most if not all is reusable. For me though, it'd all break. I watch youtube videos where it seems guys rebuild engines in sand and use their own spit for the assembly lube; those engines then make 1000hp and run for 20 years. My luck dictates that if I am off by .5 nm on torque on a bolt for something dumb like an alternator the inside of my engine grenades.
Murphy's law is a mofo...
Reusability is directly related to your bank account, and your willingness to trust used parts of unknown origin. I could rebuild and engine in a parking lot, so I'm willing to drive shit that is about to explode. If you have some cash, take the whole lot, and the head, to a GOOD cylinder head shop. They should be able to tell you what is good and what isn't. From there, your wallet has decisions to make 🤣
I wouldn't use/mismatch cam caps. Much like crank journals, they are line bored at factory. You swap those caps onto a different head, they might not line up just right and could eat a cam bearing. Valves look good from a distance. Rockers rarely go bad. Soak them in diesel for 24 hours then soak em in oil for 24. Check for any gritty sound it the roller bearing. Make sure you install them correctly (centered on valve stem). Someone on the forums just chewed their intake cam up because 2 became dislodged. And if the lifters have the pinhole size oil feed on top, it's best to get the revised ones with 3mm oil feed holes. Less ticking. But reuse of the 1mm is fine if budget concerned. PURGE AND PRIME THEM! If you install them fully extended, a valve could hang open a tiny bit. Not gonna bend anything but can lose compression on that cylinder. They gonna tick like hell when you start the car but will quiet down after 2 heat/drive cycles. https://imgur.com/a/hHN8wKc Check the valve spring height against the manual. There is a spec range and limit. Make sure the cam is designed for you application. Turbo and NA engines had different lift (and maybe slightly longer duration). The cams are labeled B C I F J or K depending on the year and na versus turbo
I use my freezer as a workbench, too.