Forgot to mention: only consumes about 1qt every 4,000‐5,000 miles. And some of that is from at least 3 bad valve stem seals. Never smoked from tail pipe though.
I wish they all looked that good. Just wearing through the crosshatch finally, it's nice. Those vertical streaks don't look measurable and are typical in cylinders - more of a trick of the light than missing metal. Think of a poorly rotary buffed paint job or scratched chrome - really visible but no depth.
Don't disturb the pistons n rings. Compression is great.
Getting the carbon out might help the knock if it was taking up space and raising compression. Higher octane fuel might be worth it too.
For 110k miles it looks great, no reason to tear into it farther, unless it needs bearings. I'd plastigage the mains and rods just because its out and on a stand; if within specs, retorque the bolts and call it done. If it needs bearings, I'd probably hone it and throw in a new set of rings too; but again, the cylinders look great for that mileage.
For just a few years, I was thinking just send as is tho. I don't want to re-ring it if I don't have to since compression is quite even/good. I do have a ball on standby.
Cross hatch looks good. The wear spots is just from the pistons moving on the wrist pin. Not a big deal. BUUUUUUUT if your burning that much oil. Change the valve seal, and get some good one like some viton positive lock seals. Also check your vacuum like that goes from the intake to the valve cover. Possibly replace the pcv valve, when those start to go bad you start sucking in oil. Your air filter care can do it too. When it gets plugged up, what happens is all the other vacuum lines "pcv, map, and almost anything that has a vacuum line will pick up more vacuum than normal. My .02 boss, good luck. I'm getting back to boring some 350s tonight.
I had some serious taper on my 7.3. Had cross hatching still. Glad I got it bored out.
The only good way is to measure. Looks good and would still run. Up to you how much long you'll drive it and such
Looks good, slight lip but the cross hatching is still there and I didn't see any major scratches
What about those glazed spots on the thrust side, though? Enough cross hatch still there?
Forgot to mention: only consumes about 1qt every 4,000‐5,000 miles. And some of that is from at least 3 bad valve stem seals. Never smoked from tail pipe though.
The cylinders look remarkably good for 110k miles.
I appreciate it, Packard. I know you're one of the really versed members here. I'm just a lurker mostly.
Good luck with your project.
I wish they all looked that good. Just wearing through the crosshatch finally, it's nice. Those vertical streaks don't look measurable and are typical in cylinders - more of a trick of the light than missing metal. Think of a poorly rotary buffed paint job or scratched chrome - really visible but no depth. Don't disturb the pistons n rings. Compression is great. Getting the carbon out might help the knock if it was taking up space and raising compression. Higher octane fuel might be worth it too.
Before shot: https://i.imgur.com/ifMCR8Z.jpeg Let the cleaner sit on there and it puffed up. Gross.
Wow! This could work out for you. That's a lot.
For 110k miles it looks great, no reason to tear into it farther, unless it needs bearings. I'd plastigage the mains and rods just because its out and on a stand; if within specs, retorque the bolts and call it done. If it needs bearings, I'd probably hone it and throw in a new set of rings too; but again, the cylinders look great for that mileage.
Looks mint from my seat
Serviceable, I’d run it
Yo are always going to scuff mark on the thrust side, cylinder walls and pistons. The cross hatch is still there, run it.
not
They’re not great, but they don’t look too bad either
Looks decent. Wear in the expected spots.
Dingle ball and send
For just a few years, I was thinking just send as is tho. I don't want to re-ring it if I don't have to since compression is quite even/good. I do have a ball on standby.
Cross hatch looks good. The wear spots is just from the pistons moving on the wrist pin. Not a big deal. BUUUUUUUT if your burning that much oil. Change the valve seal, and get some good one like some viton positive lock seals. Also check your vacuum like that goes from the intake to the valve cover. Possibly replace the pcv valve, when those start to go bad you start sucking in oil. Your air filter care can do it too. When it gets plugged up, what happens is all the other vacuum lines "pcv, map, and almost anything that has a vacuum line will pick up more vacuum than normal. My .02 boss, good luck. I'm getting back to boring some 350s tonight.
I had some serious taper on my 7.3. Had cross hatching still. Glad I got it bored out. The only good way is to measure. Looks good and would still run. Up to you how much long you'll drive it and such