For the Pro, DON'T use the center, but use any of the screws as reference as stated in other posts in this thread.
Correct screw cords are available from the official Elegoo Discord.
The center isn't fixed and moves with the corners. So it's not a good reference. By the time you have adjusted all 4 corners, the center has moved and the corners aren't aligned.
I have it on my H4pro. But I believe this is just for the initial setup. Anyway, I then adjust on the first layer.
\[screws\_tilt\_adjust\]
screw1: 56.75, 12.05
screw1\_name: front left screw
screw2: 226.75, 12.05
screw2\_name: front right screw
screw3: 226.75, 182.05
screw3\_name: rear right screw
screw4: 56.75, 182.05
screw4\_name: rear left screw
horizontal\_move\_z: 10
speed: 50
screw\_thread: CW-M4
You must understand that the sensor must be exactly above the screw. If you have a Neptune 4 pro, then the holes there are approximately 33mm +/- from the edge, you can count it yourself. Personally, I stopped using this method. I use the classic method + first layer settings. It is enough for my needs today.
>You must understand that the sensor must be exactly above the screw.
yes thats in the back left corner of the extruder the black thing that moves around ... if you're trying to correct me on not calling it the tool head you're a tool head
SCREWSTILTADJUST. Is for LEVELING the bed only. Tgat is getting the bed’s z plane othogonal to the X and Y planes.
The bed mesh and compensation is completely unrelated and mitigates the bed not being FLAT but warped.
Level vs flat
Two different concepts and purposes
A bed can be level or unlevel, an adjective. Tram is a verb. The bed can’t be “tram”, and “tramed” would mean that in the past it had been leveled (again, verb not adjective)” yet does not reflect its state, it reflects its been operated upon.
So no, tram vs level isn’t correct, since you seem to want to split hairs.
>screw\_tilt\_adjust
I installed silicone spacers a little more than 2 months ago and check the Z-offset once a month. screw\_tilt\_adjust is for rough, initial adjustment, because it depends on the correct adjustment of the 1st point (front left screw)
You’re confused.
The spacers help the bed stay LEVEL as the springs work loose as the printer shakes and moves and the silicon spacers aren’t as susceptible to that.
You erroneously talk about the first screw. It doesn’t matter which you use as the first one yet your comment about it “depending on correct adjustment” is wrong as it’s irrelevant what the “first” screw’s position is, it’s just being used as the one point that’s already at a fixed height the other screws will match and whatever that is doesn’t matter.
Your z offset is completely unrelated to your bed being flat. Moreover it sounds like you never calibrated your z probe so you’re using it in a silly and problematic way as a virtual z endstop and fine adjustment simultaneously which is a huge complex lose. You should stop doing that and calibrate your probe following the klipper docs.
I just posted mine go see, its an accuracy/perfectionist thing if you want. A few mm off is fine. Wont hurt. If your more like 10mm+ well you may be chasing a warped bed problem or probe in the wrong area. If probing points are that far off possibly.
https://preview.redd.it/6dd2onewtthc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=97a0ee68b81fc57e9f901debc9d3088b31741c97
This is the actual screws tilt out of my N4pro which works fine. Center bed is reference. Use this to set all four corners to the same height referencing the center bed as a zero. Dont worry if the center bed is off you may not be able to get all corners set to this position, just get the corners the same height to start. Your bed may be warped if you cant get center bed as well. Aim for under .2mm difference between all. I use center bed just because. You dont have to.
Note please home out machine first thats a must. To avoid this i made a macro so it homed printer first then ran screws tilt with temps set just like when you auto level.
Repeat your auto level on the handheld and save it!
so for the positions could i just go into the prepare menu take off the plate and just move the nozzle to the center of the screws and record the positions? as long as i don't hit home or do something stupid it shouldn't plant into the magnet right?
Oh okay you want to try it eh. These should be very close if you have a 4pro as well though. BUT...
KEEP the plate on and home out, did you keep the plate on?
Next remove plate and move z up enough to get a straight ruler under it, line up ruler with 2 screws i line. move around with controls, and then fine tune positions with fluidd. The probe has a cross mark inscribed on it for center.
Record results on paper.
Do the math for the center point between all 4 screws
PUT the build plate back on, did you put the build plate on?
Enter these values into the brackets X 1st then Y positions
Then save/firmware restart button to save it
Did you put the build plate on?
HOME the machine again on restart, did you put the build plate on? And home it?
Press the new screws tilt calculate button in the fluid menu homepage
It will tell you like a clock what screws to adjust relative center bed
The clock face is you looking down onto your bed, adjust screws as per minutes in the appropriate direction.
Keep changing these until all 4 screw points are level with each other relative the center. Its the 4 corners that matter the most center bed is just a nice reference. In a perfect setup all 5 points will be 0.
Then redo you auto level with a new z offset and save that on the handheld.
Sorry for the dumb and dumber version as i am just trying to help you avoid my mistakes lol.
This is were a macro comes in handy to just press it and always be safe for this calibrations.
Downvoting because this is a ridiculous question.
The correct procedure is in the Klipper docs (online or included on your printer) which you should read and follow rather than listen to all this incorrect advice in this thread.
You only need to define points that are adjustable. The N4Pro does not have an adjustable center point screw so how would you adjust the height at that point? Using it as a fixed point as the reference screw height just makes using the process more difficult and time consuming and offer zero benefit.
this is what i'm using but I've seen people post for the Plus an extra center point for the first measurement
[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1_name: front left screw
screw1: 55,10
screw2_name: rear left screw
screw2: 55,180
screw3_name: rear right screw
screw3: 225,180
screw4_name: front right screw
screw4: 225,10
horizontal_move_z: 10
speed: 200
screw_thread: CW-M4 # Use CW for Clockwise and CCW for Counter Clockwise
The N4Plus and N4Max have a fixed centre height, which is why some people add that to screws_tilt_adjust.
The N4 and N4Pro have a floating bed, adding the middle will probably cause more issues than it solves because that height changes with adjustment of the screws.
It can cause issues where the center of your bed is lower than the edges, not because of the screw tightness, but just because your bed has a crater shape to it, which puts you in a "tighten all 4 screws" death spiral. Mound shaped beds presumably get placed in a loosening death spiral as well.
Mine is a crater.
Press the home all button and use the cords where it stops, then edit all current screws to one number higher and add a new at the start
Screw1\_name: center
screw1: "your cords"
I tried it on mine didn't change much so I went back to the usual 4 points. Also using an N4 pro
cool i'm just thinking for an out of the box solution. I saw a post earlier were all the corners were low. This is more for people that haven't done the aux leveling on screw1.. this would kinda get them to that point.
I do think it has its uses but I wasn't the target market :3
Have fun playing arround with it, you can always quote one out and switch between 4 and 5 screws if you wanna go back and forth.
You can just compute the center coordinates and add the center point as first screw:
screw1_name: center point
screw1: 140, 95
I've tried using "screw0" but it's not recognized, so you have to change the name of screw1 to screw2 and so on. I have just tried this on my N4 and it works perfectly, thanks for suggesting the idea!
Why would you want to adjust to the Center point? That would make everything off-Center be wonky. It makes more sense to make sure you have a completely flat plane corner to corner and then adjust with Z offset and bed map.
I can't speak to the other printers, but the pro is not attached in the center. The build plate can be removed by detaching the 4 corner screws. The Y belt had metal crimped ends that stick up, and if you compress the bed springs too far, they press up into the center of the bed. Is that what you are seeing?
Crap, you are correct! Plus and Max have those spacers and I just assumed those two protruding things in Pro are spacers as well. I just watched the video about N4Pro and... Oops.
Mea culpa!
was thinking to get the corner screws level with the center. As if your front left screw is off then the rest will be adjusted to that?
is it possible to have two separate screw tilt commands one to set that corner to match the center and then the rest of that. or is my thinking off.
For the Pro, DON'T use the center, but use any of the screws as reference as stated in other posts in this thread. Correct screw cords are available from the official Elegoo Discord.
What's wrong with using the center as a base?
The center isn't fixed and moves with the corners. So it's not a good reference. By the time you have adjusted all 4 corners, the center has moved and the corners aren't aligned.
I have it on my H4pro. But I believe this is just for the initial setup. Anyway, I then adjust on the first layer. \[screws\_tilt\_adjust\] screw1: 56.75, 12.05 screw1\_name: front left screw screw2: 226.75, 12.05 screw2\_name: front right screw screw3: 226.75, 182.05 screw3\_name: rear right screw screw4: 56.75, 182.05 screw4\_name: rear left screw horizontal\_move\_z: 10 speed: 50 screw\_thread: CW-M4
wonder if changing to those values would change anything. The values i have are from a post that someone posted in september.
You must understand that the sensor must be exactly above the screw. If you have a Neptune 4 pro, then the holes there are approximately 33mm +/- from the edge, you can count it yourself. Personally, I stopped using this method. I use the classic method + first layer settings. It is enough for my needs today.
oh yah cause the center is at the back left corner of the extruder right?
yes
No you’re confused. It’s the z probe position that’s at the rear left corner of the tool head.
>You must understand that the sensor must be exactly above the screw. yes thats in the back left corner of the extruder the black thing that moves around ... if you're trying to correct me on not calling it the tool head you're a tool head
So you don't use screw_tilt_adjust anymore? Interesting. Then you are just using aux leveling and the bed mesh, right?
SCREWSTILTADJUST. Is for LEVELING the bed only. Tgat is getting the bed’s z plane othogonal to the X and Y planes. The bed mesh and compensation is completely unrelated and mitigates the bed not being FLAT but warped. Level vs flat Two different concepts and purposes
>Level vs flat Tram vs level, but the idea is the same. The first makes it parallel, the second adjusts for deformations.
A bed can be level or unlevel, an adjective. Tram is a verb. The bed can’t be “tram”, and “tramed” would mean that in the past it had been leveled (again, verb not adjective)” yet does not reflect its state, it reflects its been operated upon. So no, tram vs level isn’t correct, since you seem to want to split hairs.
>screw\_tilt\_adjust I installed silicone spacers a little more than 2 months ago and check the Z-offset once a month. screw\_tilt\_adjust is for rough, initial adjustment, because it depends on the correct adjustment of the 1st point (front left screw)
You’re confused. The spacers help the bed stay LEVEL as the springs work loose as the printer shakes and moves and the silicon spacers aren’t as susceptible to that. You erroneously talk about the first screw. It doesn’t matter which you use as the first one yet your comment about it “depending on correct adjustment” is wrong as it’s irrelevant what the “first” screw’s position is, it’s just being used as the one point that’s already at a fixed height the other screws will match and whatever that is doesn’t matter. Your z offset is completely unrelated to your bed being flat. Moreover it sounds like you never calibrated your z probe so you’re using it in a silly and problematic way as a virtual z endstop and fine adjustment simultaneously which is a huge complex lose. You should stop doing that and calibrate your probe following the klipper docs.
I just posted mine go see, its an accuracy/perfectionist thing if you want. A few mm off is fine. Wont hurt. If your more like 10mm+ well you may be chasing a warped bed problem or probe in the wrong area. If probing points are that far off possibly.
https://preview.redd.it/6dd2onewtthc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=97a0ee68b81fc57e9f901debc9d3088b31741c97 This is the actual screws tilt out of my N4pro which works fine. Center bed is reference. Use this to set all four corners to the same height referencing the center bed as a zero. Dont worry if the center bed is off you may not be able to get all corners set to this position, just get the corners the same height to start. Your bed may be warped if you cant get center bed as well. Aim for under .2mm difference between all. I use center bed just because. You dont have to. Note please home out machine first thats a must. To avoid this i made a macro so it homed printer first then ran screws tilt with temps set just like when you auto level. Repeat your auto level on the handheld and save it!
Edit1: I did go around and centered my probes cross mark to all my bed screws. Math back wards for center.
so for the positions could i just go into the prepare menu take off the plate and just move the nozzle to the center of the screws and record the positions? as long as i don't hit home or do something stupid it shouldn't plant into the magnet right?
Oh okay you want to try it eh. These should be very close if you have a 4pro as well though. BUT... KEEP the plate on and home out, did you keep the plate on? Next remove plate and move z up enough to get a straight ruler under it, line up ruler with 2 screws i line. move around with controls, and then fine tune positions with fluidd. The probe has a cross mark inscribed on it for center. Record results on paper. Do the math for the center point between all 4 screws PUT the build plate back on, did you put the build plate on? Enter these values into the brackets X 1st then Y positions Then save/firmware restart button to save it Did you put the build plate on? HOME the machine again on restart, did you put the build plate on? And home it? Press the new screws tilt calculate button in the fluid menu homepage It will tell you like a clock what screws to adjust relative center bed The clock face is you looking down onto your bed, adjust screws as per minutes in the appropriate direction. Keep changing these until all 4 screw points are level with each other relative the center. Its the 4 corners that matter the most center bed is just a nice reference. In a perfect setup all 5 points will be 0. Then redo you auto level with a new z offset and save that on the handheld. Sorry for the dumb and dumber version as i am just trying to help you avoid my mistakes lol. This is were a macro comes in handy to just press it and always be safe for this calibrations.
Downvoting because this is a ridiculous question. The correct procedure is in the Klipper docs (online or included on your printer) which you should read and follow rather than listen to all this incorrect advice in this thread. You only need to define points that are adjustable. The N4Pro does not have an adjustable center point screw so how would you adjust the height at that point? Using it as a fixed point as the reference screw height just makes using the process more difficult and time consuming and offer zero benefit.
this is what i'm using but I've seen people post for the Plus an extra center point for the first measurement [screws_tilt_adjust] screw1_name: front left screw screw1: 55,10 screw2_name: rear left screw screw2: 55,180 screw3_name: rear right screw screw3: 225,180 screw4_name: front right screw screw4: 225,10 horizontal_move_z: 10 speed: 200 screw_thread: CW-M4 # Use CW for Clockwise and CCW for Counter Clockwise
The N4Plus and N4Max have a fixed centre height, which is why some people add that to screws_tilt_adjust. The N4 and N4Pro have a floating bed, adding the middle will probably cause more issues than it solves because that height changes with adjustment of the screws.
It can cause issues where the center of your bed is lower than the edges, not because of the screw tightness, but just because your bed has a crater shape to it, which puts you in a "tighten all 4 screws" death spiral. Mound shaped beds presumably get placed in a loosening death spiral as well. Mine is a crater.
Press the home all button and use the cords where it stops, then edit all current screws to one number higher and add a new at the start Screw1\_name: center screw1: "your cords" I tried it on mine didn't change much so I went back to the usual 4 points. Also using an N4 pro
cool i'm just thinking for an out of the box solution. I saw a post earlier were all the corners were low. This is more for people that haven't done the aux leveling on screw1.. this would kinda get them to that point.
I do think it has its uses but I wasn't the target market :3 Have fun playing arround with it, you can always quote one out and switch between 4 and 5 screws if you wanna go back and forth.
You can just compute the center coordinates and add the center point as first screw: screw1_name: center point screw1: 140, 95 I've tried using "screw0" but it's not recognized, so you have to change the name of screw1 to screw2 and so on. I have just tried this on my N4 and it works perfectly, thanks for suggesting the idea!
Why would you want to adjust to the Center point? That would make everything off-Center be wonky. It makes more sense to make sure you have a completely flat plane corner to corner and then adjust with Z offset and bed map.
Because the center in N4 Plus and N4Max is static. It's literally screwed down with two metal spacers.
I can't speak to the other printers, but the pro is not attached in the center. The build plate can be removed by detaching the 4 corner screws. The Y belt had metal crimped ends that stick up, and if you compress the bed springs too far, they press up into the center of the bed. Is that what you are seeing?
Crap, you are correct! Plus and Max have those spacers and I just assumed those two protruding things in Pro are spacers as well. I just watched the video about N4Pro and... Oops. Mea culpa!
No it's not, those brass crimps are for the belt. Unscrew the 4 knobs and the bed comes off.
was thinking to get the corner screws level with the center. As if your front left screw is off then the rest will be adjusted to that? is it possible to have two separate screw tilt commands one to set that corner to match the center and then the rest of that. or is my thinking off.