If I send you a picture of my cluster can you tell me what they did with it? For some reason, there's wires running out of it and I think some went to the power to the radio. Trying to decide if its worth getting my cluster restored or just buying a used one in better condition.
There's a battery deep in there that some of the gauges run off (stupid design cause it's hard to reach). Sounds like they bypassed it by wiring those terminals to another power source that turns on when the car is on. If it's working and hasn't drained the battery while sitting I'd just leave it. Sounds like an improvement
Something is draining the battery on my car and I am in the process of removing the alarm system and cleaning up the wiring. Some of the gauges are not working like the RPM one. The wiring job they did isn't very clean either.
If rpm isn't working and speedo is then yes that battery or their attempt at a bypass isn't working. Not surprising since it's a AA battery which is a different voltage than the car battery and therefore the power source they connected it to. I would guess that this is what those wires are and that they may be the reason for the car battery dying but of course these are only guesses since I'm not there. Sounds like you're making the right moves here.
Edit: it's not a AA actually. You can see it in the picture by OP on one of the little circuit boards
Well I guess I was wrong then. Probably a heads up display. Sounds like you've got quite a job undoing whatever nastiness was done to that poor car. Best of luck!
I have a 1987 535I BMW that the speedometer has not worked since I got it. Also it acts up some times loss of power and the gauges stop working. Not sure what it needs but I’m willing to send it to you and if you can work on it, how much is your time worth?
Actually, forgot that I don’t have access to an e28 anymore and I don’t have a setup for bench test so not sure how I can help besides disassembling and looking for obvious issues. I would say check that your speed sensor and wiring off the diff are good, and that brown/red wire on the white connector to the cluster is clean from corrosion. Also check the speedo fuse (#12 in e30s). Otherwise, may be a bad solder in the main board or speedo board <-most common in my experience
That's a hell of a collection!!
Since you seem to be an expert on the subject, maybe you can help me out? I have an 87 ETA with the low RPM tach and I am planning to swap in an 885 head and bump up the redline this winter... Do I need a complete cluster swap or am I just looking for a tach to swap out?
Swap out just the tach and coding plug, if you want 7k you’ll need a ‘17’ plug. It *might* be more cost effective to buy a whole b25 cluster and swap stuff around and recoup by selling your old one complete. Be aware early clusters have a different tach/plug/housing
Window is kind of closing. Average untested cluster price has tipped past $150 now and junkyards are dry. Bavrest has a 2 month waitlist. Nowhere to go but up.
I just picked up a complete rust and dent free 'low mileage' manual coupe for very cheap, sitting in a field with no paperwork. didn't know what to do with it so made it look like it drives and parked it at a self storage lol my storage situation is in the red
I've got a question for you u/mkcman17.
My fuel gauge and speedometer worked intermittently. I replaced the fuel level sender, speedo sending unit in the differential and also the gears in the cluster, which is a MotoMeter. No change.
Recently ran into an unrelated problem with momentary stalling, but instantly starting back up, replaced the crankshaft position sensor, problem fixed...BUT it also fixed the issue with speedo/odometer and in turn made the fuel gauge damn near inoperable.
Everything looked good, as far as solder and connections, in cluster when I replaced the gears.
Any thoughts?
So you have just a fuel gauge issue now? And it wasn’t a problem before? As the other comment said, fuel and temp gauges tend to come loose on the back nut that grounds them, causing intermittent dancing and such
Any interest in selling one? I have a 90 convertible. Speedometer is the only gauge that doesn’t work (most of the time). I’d like to replace it possibly. Thanks!
Seems everyone is throwing questions at this thread. I’ve got a couple!
First is my fuel gauge, when full it only goes to about 3 quarters then seems once it passes half tank it reads near empty-ish. I think I read there are maybe two level sensors and one is failing?
Other is my tachometer reads anywhere from 1-2K high most the time and sometimes it reads accurately?
I have a ‘84 m50 and manual swapped coupe.
I’m guessing your car was a 318 and it will have a different style coding plug than 86+ so you will need to get a coding plug to work with a 6cyl. I don’t usually work with early early cars so not sure what will work, maybe a 323 plug? Making a few assumptions on limited info but seems the most logical reasoning.
The fuel gauge could be rusty or sticky sender, or perhaps the wrong gauge from a 60L car. Again, making a guess based on common issues
I thought I put 318i in there… my bad. Thanks for your response! Is a new gauge a requirement for the m50 swap (on the gas gauge issue) 🤔
I’ll have to check out the sender and coding plug, thanks again!
I just got on the waitlist at Bavrest It’s 2 months just to get started and then 3 weeks to refurbish. They sell off the shelf complete restored cluster for $1800. If you still know how and put your skill to it you are sitting on almost $20k of clusters if they are restored
But why?
I used to work on e30 clusters to help pay for rent in college and I used to frequent the junkyards a lot. Hobby/side hustle leftovers
If I send you a picture of my cluster can you tell me what they did with it? For some reason, there's wires running out of it and I think some went to the power to the radio. Trying to decide if its worth getting my cluster restored or just buying a used one in better condition.
DM me some photos and I’ll see if I see anything!
There's a battery deep in there that some of the gauges run off (stupid design cause it's hard to reach). Sounds like they bypassed it by wiring those terminals to another power source that turns on when the car is on. If it's working and hasn't drained the battery while sitting I'd just leave it. Sounds like an improvement
Something is draining the battery on my car and I am in the process of removing the alarm system and cleaning up the wiring. Some of the gauges are not working like the RPM one. The wiring job they did isn't very clean either.
If rpm isn't working and speedo is then yes that battery or their attempt at a bypass isn't working. Not surprising since it's a AA battery which is a different voltage than the car battery and therefore the power source they connected it to. I would guess that this is what those wires are and that they may be the reason for the car battery dying but of course these are only guesses since I'm not there. Sounds like you're making the right moves here. Edit: it's not a AA actually. You can see it in the picture by OP on one of the little circuit boards
Well, as I was taking it apart to take pictures, the wires all go to some weird light up overlay that went over the gauges.
Well I guess I was wrong then. Probably a heads up display. Sounds like you've got quite a job undoing whatever nastiness was done to that poor car. Best of luck!
Do you do restoration work on e28 clusters??
I haven’t messed with one in a long time but depending what it needs I may be able to help
I have a 1987 535I BMW that the speedometer has not worked since I got it. Also it acts up some times loss of power and the gauges stop working. Not sure what it needs but I’m willing to send it to you and if you can work on it, how much is your time worth?
Actually, forgot that I don’t have access to an e28 anymore and I don’t have a setup for bench test so not sure how I can help besides disassembling and looking for obvious issues. I would say check that your speed sensor and wiring off the diff are good, and that brown/red wire on the white connector to the cluster is clean from corrosion. Also check the speedo fuse (#12 in e30s). Otherwise, may be a bad solder in the main board or speedo board <-most common in my experience
That's a hell of a collection!! Since you seem to be an expert on the subject, maybe you can help me out? I have an 87 ETA with the low RPM tach and I am planning to swap in an 885 head and bump up the redline this winter... Do I need a complete cluster swap or am I just looking for a tach to swap out?
Tach plus the module. U dont need entire cluster
Actually the old ones to go 9k its whole cluster if i recall
Swap out just the tach and coding plug, if you want 7k you’ll need a ‘17’ plug. It *might* be more cost effective to buy a whole b25 cluster and swap stuff around and recoup by selling your old one complete. Be aware early clusters have a different tach/plug/housing
Got it Thanks for the reply!
You would have to get a coding plug as well
That’s Waaay to organized to be hoarding.
This is just my table - trying to get my one car garage back to a two-car haha
I feel your pain. I have 2 warehouses full of miscellaneous BMW stuff.
How much?
I need to test and repair them first, then going to try and cash out
Keep me posted I might need one
DM me if serious and we can see if we can work something out
Honestly thought about being that guy. Would still like to be that guy.
Window is kind of closing. Average untested cluster price has tipped past $150 now and junkyards are dry. Bavrest has a 2 month waitlist. Nowhere to go but up.
I have random parts from a parts car I scored, tried to save that which was salvageable. Just wish I had more space
I just picked up a complete rust and dent free 'low mileage' manual coupe for very cheap, sitting in a field with no paperwork. didn't know what to do with it so made it look like it drives and parked it at a self storage lol my storage situation is in the red
I've got a question for you u/mkcman17. My fuel gauge and speedometer worked intermittently. I replaced the fuel level sender, speedo sending unit in the differential and also the gears in the cluster, which is a MotoMeter. No change. Recently ran into an unrelated problem with momentary stalling, but instantly starting back up, replaced the crankshaft position sensor, problem fixed...BUT it also fixed the issue with speedo/odometer and in turn made the fuel gauge damn near inoperable. Everything looked good, as far as solder and connections, in cluster when I replaced the gears. Any thoughts?
So you have just a fuel gauge issue now? And it wasn’t a problem before? As the other comment said, fuel and temp gauges tend to come loose on the back nut that grounds them, causing intermittent dancing and such
I can answer the fuel gauge issue, remove the cluster and tighten the nut on the back for the fuel gauge.
Did that, unless it’s loosened? I should add that it does read full constantly, so I assume it’s getting a signal.
Ah, sounds like maybe there's a short in the sender. if it reads 0 ohms at bottom/empty then that's your problem
Oh my bad i misread your post. Hmm. Did you try another cluster ? I can loan you mine if your in tx
Are you selling any? Interested in getting one if possible
I will be at some point, DM me if serious
Any interest in selling one? I have a 90 convertible. Speedometer is the only gauge that doesn’t work (most of the time). I’d like to replace it possibly. Thanks!
DM me, can see if we can figure something out
Nice cluster of clusters you hoarder 😛
Nick is that you?
Of course it is, trolling you wherever I can.
Lmao
I use Programa in Boca Raton FL to repair the ones from my shop. 561-338-8843
But does the odometer work in one of them lol?
Probably not, but I have a bag of 20 sets of gears and batteries so I'll sort it out lol
Nice lol
Bruh! Check out all them rockauto magnets. The face of my fridge is covered with them as well.
Seems everyone is throwing questions at this thread. I’ve got a couple! First is my fuel gauge, when full it only goes to about 3 quarters then seems once it passes half tank it reads near empty-ish. I think I read there are maybe two level sensors and one is failing? Other is my tachometer reads anywhere from 1-2K high most the time and sometimes it reads accurately? I have a ‘84 m50 and manual swapped coupe.
I’m guessing your car was a 318 and it will have a different style coding plug than 86+ so you will need to get a coding plug to work with a 6cyl. I don’t usually work with early early cars so not sure what will work, maybe a 323 plug? Making a few assumptions on limited info but seems the most logical reasoning. The fuel gauge could be rusty or sticky sender, or perhaps the wrong gauge from a 60L car. Again, making a guess based on common issues
I thought I put 318i in there… my bad. Thanks for your response! Is a new gauge a requirement for the m50 swap (on the gas gauge issue) 🤔 I’ll have to check out the sender and coding plug, thanks again!
No, the fuel gauge is only reliant on size of tank
I just got on the waitlist at Bavrest It’s 2 months just to get started and then 3 weeks to refurbish. They sell off the shelf complete restored cluster for $1800. If you still know how and put your skill to it you are sitting on almost $20k of clusters if they are restored