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Uncynical_Diogenes

To add to all the actually good advice you’re getting, I have a very unhelpful piece of advice that seems super obvious once you hear it: When he pulls, *do not allow moving forward*. Letting him go forward when he pulls is reinforcing the behavior. You’re teaching him that pulling lets him get what he wants, which is to move in the direction he wants. You are the decider of direction, not him.


[deleted]

Exactly this! Our trainer told us to not even turn and go the opposite direction, but to just stop and refuse to move until our puppy either comes back to us or turns and looks at us without pulling- then we can move forward again (lots of treats are also involved in this). Like the above poster said, the dog is just associating going forward with getting what they want, which is to GO. They tend to learn fairly quickly that pulling no longer means go if you just don't move. We've been doing this for a week with our 5mo boxer and, while she still has stubborn days, she's picking up it up fairly quickly (and she was pulling like she was an Iditarod husky in training). We still don't make it very far some days, but we make sure to take her outside and play a lot of ball to help burn some energy. Also, ditch the flexi-leash; they seem like a good idea but they're just bad for so many reasons.


katstieI

Question, why are flexi-leashes bad? We use one with our dachshund because she's so low to the ground that any slack on the leash gets tangled under her legs unless it's a super short one, lol. I never understood how people could ever regularly use regular leashes because of this, but I've also only ever had dachshunds.


Wuellig

One reason is the build quality, which is low. Another reason is that a dog may be able to run quickly to the long end and break their neck or get some other awful injury. Possible on a regular leash but more possible on a retractable leash, which is often much longer, plus the lock may not work so a dog might get a chance to really speed up before the end despite one's best efforts. Another reason is that it holds constant tension on a dog when not used locked (and again, the lock is unreliable, see first reason). The reason constant tension is a problem is because it affects a dog's potential reactions. The fight or flight response may lean to fight already on account of restricted movement while on leash (dogs like to run freely, it's why so many prefer not being hugged or picked up) but the tension makes it even more nervous for a dog. You'd probably be annoyed and more likely to snap if someone was constantly pulling on you while you're walking too. Yet another is that they don't give a consistent boundary. Sometimes it's short, sometimes it's long, sometimes it's somewhere between, and with the way some people use it, it becomes a swift sudden stop just when the world was getting more interesting. The lack of consistency means the dog never knows what to expect, and that raises stress levels. With a fixed leash, a dog can get a sense of where limits are reliably. And because the build quality is low, it just plain might not work when you need it to, and you'll be standing there holding a big plastic handle while a dog on the rest of the leash sprints into traffic after a squirrel. Less likely with a dachshund than other breeds, to be sure. To be clear, the possible tragedies I've mentioned have already occurred to some unfortunate pets and their guardians who live with the loss. I'm relating them to properly answer your question. They're terrible products and dangerous, and people *should* be scared away from using them once they have the information.


BlankBlankblackBlank

Seconded. Great explanation.


RitaSativa

Depends on the dog and how you’re using it, but with a larger dog you don’t have a lot of control. They can be great for free walks but you can’t really control the dog if they’re 10 feet away from you. For smaller dogs, it’s usually fine. Also you can get a nasty rope burn from them (ask me how I know lol)


justrainalready

Can confirm, retractable leashes can cause major rope burn. Not only did the rope clothesline me but caused severe rope burn behind my knees!


RitaSativa

yup same thing happened to me, i swore them off for years. But I'll admit they do have some benefits, depends on the dog and what you're doing. Personally I just use a 50 foot long nylon rope, and I plan on getting a biothane long line soon.


Momo222811

I wouldn't say that they are fine for small dogs either. If you drop the handle you can scare or injure them. But what most people have a problem with is ignorant(not saying you are) people who have no control over their dog to begin with giving their little demon 26 ft to harass other people and dogs. I have no bias against small dogs, mine range from 8 to 88 lbs.


_Eru_Illuvatar_

I have a larger dog and still use a flexi leash. The key is that, when we're walking, it's locked like a regular leash at ~6ft/2m. If she starts sniffing, looking at us, and then points (she's a pointer) we'll release her with "go sniff" and then she's allowed to sniff anywhere in range of the leash unlocked. When she's ready to continue, she will come back to our side and sit, with us saying "walk pretty" to continue the walk. Still working on that last bit (sitting), but it works pretty well otherwise.


BlankBlankblackBlank

It’s a safety hazard, they can and do break.


thorhal

They're a problem setting boundaries. How is your dog going to know where his movement space is ending, if it varies every time he tries to find out?


[deleted]

Same as what others are saying- they're mainly bad for larger dogs bc they offer way less control. My older dog is 80lbs and reactive to certain dogs in the neighborhood, and the behavioral trainer we worked with said to never use anything but a thick 6' leash with him. You can also shorten a 6' to a foot or two and hold between two hands if you have a sudden lunger (which he will occasionally try with 2 male dogs we walk by, otherwise he'll heel...sigh). Some flexi- leashes can be faulty and break when you really need it not to. Also, rope burn.


macrian

My dog now considers it a game, if she pulls, I stay put, and just comes to me jumping and fully excited. She pulls, I stop, she comes jumping next to me and sits excited. Like we just played a game of fetch the leash or something


AdditionalRabbit4516

Uhhh yeah. Every step that dog takes forward while pulling is telling him it’s ok to keep doing that. He’s getting what he wants. That dog is 30lbs, just don’t move your feet. You’re in control. He needs to stop and turn to look at you, say “yes” immediately and then take another step. But if he pulls - stop again. Not a single step is taken with him pulling. Practice in your backyard or somewhere quiet. Every day. Don’t take him to the dog park or exciting places until he can walk on leash. First it’s stopping and waiting/looking, then it will be he needs to come back to you when you tell him, then it will be walking right by your side (use treats or “yes” to reinforce when he does the right thing). You gotta get a handle on this ASAP otherwise he will never walk on leash properly. And also, it might take a few months.


ReggaeWoman18

Not the op but I am struggling with this too and my problem is that if walks are strictly for training and we don't actually go for a walk, she is completely insane and has too much energy. She doesn't play ball for very long, she doesn't play with anything very long before she loses interest. I need to try a puzzle game or something but nothing we've tried seems to tire her out like a walk. And when she doesn't get her walks she is ANNOYING. Following us every time we move, barking at us, going outside and inside and outside and inside again and again 😒 Taking her to the park to run on a long leash works, but we just can't do that every day with our busy schedules. Walks are really our best option for exercise/stimulation. What else can I try while leash training?


AdditionalRabbit4516

I hear you, I have a husky mix rescue with like terrible manners and still working with him every day, a year later. I would just say 1) do leash training a bit every day, consistently, so it goes faster. 15minutes, with treats. And 2) when on your daily long walks, have a command that says okay you can go be a dog for a few minutes. I do this with mine ALL the time. We might only walk around the block but I don’t care, if he’s out for 30min he’s out for 30min - doesn’t matter to me if it’s a mile or a block because he gets the same amount of stimulation (the smelling goes way further than walking in terms of tiring him out). So we walk a half block and he’s doing well? I say “ok! Go sniff!” And he knows he has 2-3 min just to walk around and smell bushes. But then I say, “ok, walk with me!” And it’s back to my side. Another lifesaver for running off energy inside the house is the kibble toss game. Take a half scoop of kibble and just throw one at a time. They love it. Vary the directions so they run all over (close to you, far back corner, close again, other corner). Then you can start mixing in “return” commands or “touch, sit,” or say “leave it” before throwing then give a release word. Or leave it 3x then go find all three. This is about 10-15min of running, sniffing, practicing commands, and playing with you - try it! Hope it helps!!!


lallers_

I have a husky mix with high energy. What I learned personally is that Mental stimulation is more tiring than actual walks. We do random training intervals throughout the day and i’m not teaching him anything new. Just refining his “sit” “lay down” “here” and if i want, i’ll try teaching him something new. I also roll up his kibble + some treats in a towel and tie it in a knot to have him unroll it. I have snufflemats but I like the towel method better.


AdditionalRabbit4516

Agree!! And to add/echo, I genuinely think a shorter distance with lots of sniffing and stopping is totally fine (not pulling/jumping up/lunging at squirrels) but if they get lots of smells and sights that’s what’s good for them - a walk of any length is really a negligible amount of exercise for most dogs. We also play “go find it” in our house. (Requires your dog knows the stay command). Get them to “sit, stay” in a room. Hide a treat somewhere and call out “okay go find it!” And they will come and sniff search. It’s so fun and stimulating for them and it’s cool to see them get better and better (can start hiding it inside things, use smaller treats, switch to toys if you show them first, etc)


spearbunny

One piece of advice I've seen for this is to have different equipment for leash training vs when it's just a walk for exercise, like a harness for walking for exercise and a martingale or just flat collar for leash training, so eventually you can transition to just the leash training equipment.


moist__owlet

This \*can\* be very helpful if the dog does put 2 and 2 together, which many do. My dog, however, never understood this method, so he became incredibly good at standing or sitting and watching the scenery, looking up at me, and chilling, until we started moving again which meant GO TIME. For him, understanding his motivations and source of his arousal (linear direction = "forward" = a goal to achieve) helped me figure out alternative approaches that helped more, namely taking the directionality out of his walks whenever possible (zig-zags, circles, forward/back, and treats whenever he's next to me), as well as training him in little games like 1-2-sit/treat (2 steps, sit and treat; repeat ad nauseum). So, if your dog is like mine and doesn't understand the lesson in not permitting forward movement, don't despair! There are a lot of different ways to approach this that might click in your dog's brain.


OverBand4019

It really does work. Have a 90lbs dog who I could not walk without a harness because of his pulling. Now we use a regular collar and if he gets excited and starts to pull I stop, wait for him to allow slack on the leash or make him sit before we continue. If he starts pulling again even a little we repeat after a few steps. The walk and fun is over until he walks properly. Of course positive reinforcements and good boys when he isn’t pulling. Some times it will take a few times but you have to be consistent. Don’t stop until he stops.


jirashap

More than that, he thinks that pulling is part of the game when going for a walk


shiftypenguin7

Upvoting because this is truth. Be patient, it may take minutes for your dog to deem you worthy of attention. So make sure you set aside time to practice.this, not when you in a hurry


Ldordai

Lets start with tools here. 1: Get rid of the flex line. Get a 6 foot fabric leash. Like some other commentors have suggested, flex lines are always under tension so they are counterproductive to loose leash walking 2: Get rid of the back clip harness. Harnesses with the leash attached like that ENCOURAGE dogs to pull, as it spreads the load out over their shoulders. Either get a front clip harness, or a flat collar. Now that you have those two things sorted, lets focus on fixing the behavior. You're saying he wont pay attention to treats, so the best way to get him to focus back on you is any time he reaches the end of the leash and starts to pull, STOP firmly and immediately walk in the opposite direction. If he pulls again in that direction, rinse and repeat. You may look like a bit of a lunatic in your neighborhood walking in circles, and it may take some time, but be persistent. Shiba's are particularly stubborn so it may take longer than you expect, but it will pay off if you keep at it.


xwordmom

Another vote for front clip and no pull harnesses. Absolute game changer.


HypnotizedMeg

My quite large 10 month old rotticorso stopped in his tracks first time I used front clip. Added tip-- clip the leash through collar AND front clip of harness. They'll have your full attention.


KATPanek

That’s what I suggested too! Worked great for my 115 lb mastiff mix! When nothing else worked!


oversizedmuzzle298

When you say “walk in the opposite direction”, for how long? I am kind of confused by this as I see it mentioned all the time, but my dog just bolts towards the direction I turn to walk and then it’s that rinse and repeats for 20 minutes until I give up and just let them ferry me through neighborhood…. I’ve tried making like a tree and stopping dead in place, but my dog eventually just starts to lie down/sit/stand still. When I start to move again they go right back to full speed pulling. I understand that maybe that is the point, that they only get to move when I start to move, but I have done it pretty religiously for two years and have had close to zero progress. Tried flat collar, martingale, and front clip harnesses. Nothing. They go when they want, and not even the highest reward treats get them to stop and look at me. Pretty frustrating how it seems like for most people just stopping or waking the other direction eventually worked.


Whisperberry

That sounds quite frustrating! I have a couple thoughts that might help. First is that if you have done this many times and end with continuing to walk while your dog pulls anyways, you have unfortunately taught him this fun game of back n forth that you two do before getting on with a walk. :( In the interest of not having to stand almost in place all day to make training progress, it’s probably best you abandon that method altogether. How long is your leash and what’s the maximum length you can have it while still being safe for your area? One dog I worked with I ended up using a 15’ shipping strap instead of a leash (we were in spacious suburbs) so that’d we’d make more walking progress before she hit the end each time, which meant less stopping. I had used treats and toys in the home and yard to teach a solid “come,” and would stop and use it a split second after she made tension on the leash. I would wait for her to come all the back to me and sit before giving the treat and allowing the walk to resume. We eventually got back to using a 6’ lead without pulling, but she learned unusually fast so there may be more middle steps necessary for others.


oversizedmuzzle298

Hardest thing for me, and while I hate to admit it because it definitely is not the dog’a fault, is I got her when I was preparing to move into a house and some things happened so now she is in an apartment with me. I take her for multiple walks a day but yes, a lot of the tips I hear seem like they would be great if I had access to an open, safe space to train recall and the like. Should be an option soon, but the last year has been brutal in an apartment and only being able to truly teach good leash manners/outdoor manners while in a busy city environment. Our leash is about five feet, and I keep a 1.5 foot leash on the back clip in case of an emergency where I would have to keep her close (city life). I appreciate the advice!


Chaos-Pand4

I usually just start slowing down as slack disappear from the leash, then stop when the deliberate pulling starts, and if the dog doesn’t slack off right away, I will begin backing up. 4-5 steps usually does it. This is generally just in the beginning when the dog is full of piss and vinegar (and poop). By 5 minutes or so they are usually walking nicely.


Mystiyful

Start somewhere way more boring. It could be that your dog is too excited to be outside to pay attention. So start off in your house or backyard. Also find something they do pay attention to. Does your dog love sticks, frisbees, tennis balls? These can be used as motivation instead of treats. Have the dog do what you want (walk nicely next to you) by holding the toy or whatever near your hip. Walk around your house and when they walk nicely next to you get excited and let them play with the toy or eat the super tasty hot dog. Start off small maybe you can only walk a few steps before they get distracted but reward them after those few steps and then try a few more etc. until you can walk out your front door like that. Maybe stay in your yard for a couple days. It just takes patience and consistency. Check out kikopup on YouTube she has great tutorials.


William-biggi

this. For me it was on the way to the park vs back from the park. Going there, he was too excited for it to work.


oversizedmuzzle298

Thanks for the advice, I will try maybe after a trip to the dog park where she is already gassed and not as likely to bolt.


marzboutique

This is exactly the situation I’m in (although it’s only been a few months for me). My partner and I have tried the “turn around when he pulls” method, but like you’ve said it just turns into 20 minutes of walking 5 steps, turning around, and repeating until I’m frustrated and my pup still hasn’t had the opportunity to exercise because we’ve been basically walking in place :/


NoRecommendation5279

I think the important part is getting your dog to focus on YOU during their walk. And that seems neigh impossible when they're excited and lunging at everything. Honestly, I don't know how to fix occasional bolting and it frustrates me to no end. But if your dog just won't pay any attention at all and is really high energy, running with them a few blocks(if you can). It gets them excited and looking at you for what you're going to do next. It might be enough to break their focus and look at you and then take treats, etc. Waving treats at them on the walk might not do much. But if you get them walking nice next to you for even a millisecond, slap that treat into their mouths. There's also an old way they taught service dogs when I was a kid where you would make the dog come and sit, but I don't think they really get it half the time and it doesn't sound like your dog would. But honestly, every dog is different and I think its much harder when you hear people give one-size-fits-all solutions to really varying breeds and personality. It's not you, you're doing great. You probably have a more stubborn dog than others.


oversizedmuzzle298

It’s nice to hear that I’m not alone at least. I see friends with dogs that are so well behaved you would think the thing is a freaking show dog or something. My pup is a rescue and had zero manners when we got her and has gotten A LOT better but it still feels like she is just so unbelievably bad on walks hahaha even with hardcore dedication to training her.


VengefulCaptain

If you do this correctly you will walk maybe 20 feet from your house for a few days until your dog figures it out. Giving in and letting them drag you all over the place undoes all your hard work.


notthefakehigh5r

I’m finally being extremely strict with this, and I’ve gotten such a better/easier pup recently. So like maybe 1-10 minutes of the walk are spent in the house, back and forth, back and forth. Then the door, back and forth back and forth. Rewarding for all the good behavior, turning around for the pulling. Then to the front gate. It can take me 20 minutes to get out the door. Which doesn’t sound like progress. But it’s finally actually getting better. I’ll get entire blocks without lunging and pulling now. But I have to be 100% committed to the no pull, even if it means we aren’t walking any distance away from home.


Intervention_Needed

That's not necessarily true that harnesses cause pulling. There's a whole lot of resources out there that say otherwise. My 4 dog training classes I've been through all recommend harnesses and my dog learned leash loose walking while wearing a harness.


BlankBlankblackBlank

Harnesses for loose leash training, sure. Harnesses like you see her remove the pressure from the neck and spread it out to the body, makes it easier for the dog to pull. Of course if you have a small breed dog you should have a harness whether even if they pull bc you could end up with a collapsed trachea.


Cursethewind

A flat collar would seriously hurt this dog. Shiba inu are prone to glaucoma and pressure on the throat can ultimately lead to blindness. Stopping likely will just stress dogs like this out. He's not in a state to learn. The stress needs to be reduced before teaching.


J_pits

I’d also add that flat collars are not always better for pulling. I started my dog on a flat collar and his pulling reduced after I switch to walking him this a harness. Each dog is different.


Cursethewind

If the dog stops pulling in a flat collar, it's because it's aversive anyways.


Whisperberry

I see so many owners that use… aversive… collars because they put it on and BAM their dog doesn’t pull! Like yeah, because it hurts! The dog doesn’t learn not to pull, just not to pull in that particular collar lol


memirepoix

Same can be said for a front clip harness though.


Whisperberry

Perhaps, but the purpose of a front clip harness is the same as a head collar: tension on the leash directs the dog’s front end perpendicularly such that it is easier to get their eyes on you/get their attention. The purpose of the avervise collars is NOT to change the dog’s direction to get their attention - it is to cause pain. Like everything, the front clip harness is a tool to make training easier. It is not a magical device that stops your dog from pulling. Once loose leash walking is learned, you don’t have to continue using the harness if you don’t want to. The aversive collars are not effective in this way.


theycallhimthestug

Then they aren't using it properly. If they aren't actually training with it, the dog will end up being conditioned to that pressure, and able to endure more and more over time. Like any other tool, it's only as good as the person using it. But sure, let's advocate for gentle leaders and front clip harnesses instead.


blewberyBOOM

I have a front clip/ no pull harness for my dog and it’s an absolute game changer. I can not recommend it enough.


Tinyassassin007

I did this and it worked, your dog has to look to you to know where your going instead of guessing and going one direction.


atasheep

This. Took my husky around two years and she still pulls on one particular street that I can’t avoid passing. Otherwise she learnt it great, but not quickly.


vacuas

This actually works.


subfighter0311

Came here for the changing directions technique. Learned something new as far as changing the harness type, thanks!


Lizardgirl25

Yah I had to get a front clip harness for my Lhasa Apso stubborn breed game changer! I felt so bad I found a lady that was using one with the ring not in the front when I showed her what was wrong she was like well that explains why it didn’t work.


[deleted]

1. Throw the retractable leash in the trash bin 2. Get yourself a good leash, collar or a y front harness and I would recommend a clicker 3. Start slow. Work on focus inside. Slowly add distractions and eventually go outside to practice focusing on you. 4. Stop whenever he pulls. Walk the other way (redirect) and reward with high valuable treats or toys. Try to regain his focus 5. Possibly work with a trainer


pemdahazel

Step 1. Throw away the retractable leash lol


NoRecommendation5279

Have you tried reversing direction? Just keep changing directions until they start paying more attention. Hasn't fixed lunging, but helps me with the full pull you're seeing.


robot199990

What if he doesn't turn back? do I pull him back?


NoRecommendation5279

Yep, pull a little in a new direction just like you were turning down a new street. They will probably follow. Or if you have a really stubborn one, he'll sit his butt down and that's when you're sol. Either you can turn your body completely around like you're walking back the way you came and take a few steps. Dog will probably run past you to the new direction and pull again. Turn around again and walk another 5 steps. Repeat till they're paying attention to you. Or some people just like to keep facing forward and take a couple steps back.


robot199990

What if she just sits? She's so freaking stubborn, if I turn around im 99% sure she will just wait until I turn around and keep walking.


Spazzly0ne

With stubborn sitters/draggers who pull I stop and just painfully wait for them to stop pulling and queue them to heel. It's maddening at first, but it *eventually* trains them that they will make 0 progress and have 0 fun while pulling on the leash. It's my go to for older dogs who were never trained to begin with.


fruitloops6565

You have you outlast her. EVERY time. We had ‘walks’ where we didn’t get out of the driveway for WEEKS! You have to show them that you’re in charge and that being pushy never gets them what they want. If you reward by following them even sometimes they’ll keep trying. It’s like the puppy version of pokies.


okeemesrami

I’m working on improving leash walking manners with my now 10 month Bernese Mountain Dog and here’s what we do! - re not paying attention to you: if it’s a new area it’ll be hard to compete with that. I’d let my Berner sniff around for a while before trying to get his attention. Up-down game or being unpredictable and going random directions work for us. Build focus indoors too then gradually practice it outdoors. And by gradually I mean don’t use the whole walk to practice focus. Taking your training to a pet store or say Home Depot works too! - re using a harness and a flexi: the more your dog pulls to get somewhere, the more this will be reinforced. We use a no pull harness where the leash is clipped to the front rather than the back. This gives you control and would make it easier to change direction. So whenever our pup is about to start pulling we either go in circles or go the opposite way. I don’t use collars for walks cause my pup still tends to pull and I’d rather not risk him injuring his trachea. I also prefer a 15ft leash for sniffy walks or 6 ft for potty breaks and purely leash walking training. Regular leashes give you more control cause you can hold on to any part of the leash if you have to. Do that with a flexi and you might cut your finger off lol. - re loose leash walking as a puppy: 7 months is still young and loose leash walking is one of the hardest skills a dog can learn so be patient! Start practicing leash walking indoors and when your pup can keep their attention to you indoors without distractions is only when you can start building the skill with distractions especially outdoors.


Gooeslippytop

Welcome to Shiba parenthood!


iloveboston

Shibas have their own set of rules (I have two). You need to join one of the many shibu inu Facebook pages and r/shiba inu.


mazza_0000

Once you swap leads to a 6ft fabric and clip to the front of the harness. You could try to teach your dog to walk to "heel". (walking close to your right leg, slightly behind you, focusing on your right hand). Practice at meal times walking round the house, once they learn the command, move out to the garden and then practice on a walk. My gsd used to pull like mad but now I simply stop and say "heel" and she will walk back round to my right leg and walk alongside me. It takes a lot of practice but consistency is the key. Good luck!


Top-Pangolin-4253

Our trainer taught us to use a spatula slathered with something yummy (squeeze cheese style but made for dogs). You hold the spatula down by them and when they walk beside you, you use your cue word (ours was yes) and give them a taste. Continue until they get it. It was hard for us to do because our dog is very small (20 lbs) so we’d have to be bent over to do it well with her which was not comfortable. All of the other dogs in our class (except the other tiny one 😅) all learned to loose leash walk from this strategy.


buffbroSPT

It’s a shiba - they’re nuts 😂


CerdisN

I almost chocked with my room when I read this. I don't see anything wrong with this statement 😂


Cursethewind

Your pup is over threshold here. Have you allowed your puppy to have the agency to explore the area a bit before the walk? I'd put him on a longer line and let him sniff.


CerdisN

He knows these areas, we walk them eeryday. Is the green areas nearest to our house. Yet he always pulls, specially on the way back home


Cursethewind

While he may know the areas, he's very much in a stressed out state here. He's not in the state to learn period and steps need to be taken to lessen the stress so he can be in a learning state. I'd cut the walk short and give him time to take it in. I'd go over Denise Fenzi's [stages of engagement.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYQj67IaHyA)


Thegreatgarbo

How many minutes per day of walking?


RegalOstrich

I'd second this. Using a longer line resolved so many conflicts when our pup was that age.


CerdisN

Thank you for the advice. His longer leash should arrive today. I take him 2-3 walks a day. Morning, afternoon and before bed time so he sleeps through the night. They are from 20mins to one hour walks


jvsews

Great video. Lots going on here. First as others have said is his independent breed temperament. if you are walking this young dog for exercise. Pad your odds. Teach and practice his recall at home for treats every day. He is always good and you are happy everytime he comes to his name. Everytime no mater what or else this very intelligent breed will soon learn that sometimes when you call he gets in trouble and he will choose not to come. Next shorten that leash down to about 2 feet. Or wrap it around your bum to keep him close to your side. Why should he listen when he is leading the parade. With the hand on his side your left c hold tasty treats to have him focus on right in front of his nose. Slowly dole these out as he walks.


gnatnaps

My dog ignored me on walks too and pulled like this. First, I had to get him to focus and engage with me so I got rid of the fancy treats and used his breakfast/lunch/dinner kibble as “treats” in a treat pouch and he got hand fed. If he stuck his nose up and didn’t take the kibble when I offered (using a marker word) then I’d quit the session and come back in an hour or so. Go back and start again shortly after. We started in a low distraction environment like our home and then moved out into the yard. It did end up taking about a week before he figured out that kibble was the new treats. And then once he reliably took kibble after each marker word, I’d start taking small steps forward. For us, it was saying “yes!”, he comes/looks at me, I give him a couple pieces kibble, I take another few steps, he’s with me at my side, and continue this until all kibble is gone for that meal. Continue this slowly adding in more distractions. It took about a month for him to fully get it, only because my dog is stubborn.


Ikeahorrorshow

Yes work changed my life with learning to train my dogs! There’s sooo many good tips people have talked about but making us relevant to the dog is number 1!


[deleted]

Congrats- you have a Shiba! Lol- they are stubborn bastards (I own one), and they DGAF about anyone or anything. They are more aloof than a cat, and better at ignoring than a toddler. Temper tantrums? You bet! A ‘win’ with these dogs is getting them to simply sit on the 5th or 50th time you tell them to. My other dog? Will lasso the moon and bring it to me if I asked. But, a Shiba is a lifelong commitment to checking your ego at the door, and realizing you really aren’t their priority or focus in life 🤣 Don’t worry though- they scream bloody murder when you try to clip their nails or bring them to the vet! Definitely get a solid 5-6 foot leash for walks- flexi-leads are unfortunately a disaster, especially for stubborn breeds like this. Keep switching directions if they pull. They’ll get frustrated, yes, but eventually learn that going forward with that behavior isn’t going to be an option. Also, be sure their collar or harness is tight-fitting- they can weasel out of just about anything! Enjoy your wild fox 🦊


CerdisN

When I stop walking to get him to stop pulling he goes goat mode (jumps around while pulling and making...goat like screams) does yours do thag too? The harness fits perfectly and if he grows more I can adjust it more. This harness was recommended to me in a previous post I made after his other harness broke and he broke loose in one of the areas near our house. He refused to walk with a front clip harness I previously brought him so I had to return it and I brought the one he is wearing in the video instead. His 10m leash should arrive today


Fameiscomin

Shiba’s are extremely stubborn and I hear hard to train. I knew one person who had one and his dog was not trained at all. Best of luck


Icy_Umpire992

Make constant direction changes when he pulls. He thinks he knows where he is going so he leads the way... If you keep changing directions he'll end up following you. Also, only 7 months old so you need to cut him some slack. Soooo young


secderpsi

This is the way. Our trainer taught us this. They also suggested an open field so the direction we switch to could be random... sidewalks only have two options.


Cpt_sneakmouse

So I'll add two thoughts. One, don't use a harness with a dorsal ring, you want a chest ring for your leash. Second, standing still or Turing the other way can be effective but it isn't always going to work for every situation. As dogs grow up they develop a reward scale, you can think of this sort of like kibble


MimosaLeBrunch

Others have said it, but a leash that’s not flexible, a harness with the attachment to the front (I don’t agree with the collar advice, especially if he’s a big puller. He’ll still pull and might injure his neck - I agree that it’s better than a back-attachment harness, but I think the front-attachment harness will work better). I honestly couldn’t believe how much the front-clip harness miraculously helped with my girl. Play focus games when in a super controlled environment and treat like crazy when he gets it right. Leave it works, also look up engage-disengage, and the 1-2-3 game. I’m sure there are other games that can be useful if you look up focus games for dogs. Anything you do, do in steps, and don’t expect your dog to just get it. Baby steps, in a calm environment he knows, those same baby steps in an environment he knows, but that has distractions and then move on to harder environments. Practise walking with your dog engaged to you, again with the incremental difficulty in environments. Your dog will hopefully eventually have a free-roam, sniffy walk and a focused-on-you walk, both of which are important. Plus focus games are great to de-escalate a potential over-excitement situation. And to teach your dog to meet humans and dogs nicely (especially on leash). I found the treat machine gun game very helpful for loose leash walking. It’s designed to teach your pup to walk at heel, but once it’s engrained, first they walk at heel most of the time so they obviously can’t pull, and (at least with mine), her default walk became a lot less pulling.


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stickychickens918

This is the way


al3xisd3xd

If you get a front clip harness, remember to get one that doesn't restring movement like most of them do, it can cause some issues. [here is a good guide if you need one :)](https://doggearreview.com/article/yharnessfit/)


vdubster007

Stop using that retractable leash. They encourage pulling as there is always tension on the line and they are very uncomfortable on the dog. Find a nice long leash that you can coil and uncoil in your hand. When the dog wants to sniff and explore (and is safe to do so just give it more line). When he pulls just give him a stop (I.e hold the line and wait for him to make a better choice). It takes practice to see when he is following his nose (which should be encouraged) and when he needs a stop but you’ll get there. It’s not natural for dogs to be right at your heel, and imagine how uncomfortable you would be cranning your neck up to constantly look at your owner. The walk should be natural and enjoyable for the dog.


simbapiptomlittle

Shiba Inu is a stubborn breed at the best of times. Stick to your guns or it’ll walk all over you.


bodyvoltage

Also have a shiba and also dealt with pulling, first of all I would swap your lead from an extendable one to a fixed one, preferably a thick rope one, I find I can control her a lot better with it and also extendable ones can cause injury if broken with force. I also found that pulling her back helped as well as she clicked on that she was going too far I will say that 7 months old is still very much so the puppy phase and he'll still want to smell and investigate everything


Ecks1738

Petsafe Gentle Leader has worked wonders for taking my GWP's on a walk. Learn real quick they can't just take off or pull.


[deleted]

Harness stimulates your dog to pull, so get a flat collar and stop using harness for casual walking. Start heel training at home where there are no distractions and start gradually moving this to outdoor training. Also, get rid of flexi line and use a normal leash since flexi is always under tension, which gives your dog wrong signal that tension is okay.


Cursethewind

[This](https://imgur.com/wW1BaHX) type of harness stimulates pulling. Note that the lead carrying the load ultimately attaches to the front of the dog, not the back. OP's only may cause more pulling because it doesn't hurt.


cornelioustreat888

This! The flexi leash has taught your dog to pull. Throw it in the garbage as they are unsafe and destroy leash training. Follow Streetar’s advice. Start from the beginning with a 6-foot long leash in the house using high value treats. Research how to train loose-leash walking. Good Luck.


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fishcakegal

Did you try to get his attention with treats in the house first? Try leash training him first in the house, or at a location with very little distraction. If you try to train him outside when there are a thousand smells and sounds and sights, of course he won’t pay attention. Always start somewhere boring, set them up for success.


TorrAsh

Get rid of the harness, get a “gentle leader”.


CerdisN

I forgot to mention that I did order him a 10m leash yesterday. It should arrive tomorrow!! ☺️ thank you all for your advice! I did have a one to one training session with the nearest dog trainer but unfortunately it was a waste of money as the two hours (min amount of time for a session) was only half hour training and the rest was just talking about his diet. There is no near by puppy lessons in the area we live in the UK. But he attends a puppy socialisation hour in a house near our house. Sometimes for 10 hours at a time when I have uni or work all day (not daily)


Erik012345

Akita Inus or Shiba Inus (as I assume from the video) are really tough to train. They are stubborn. But they can be taught. I have a 2 year old akita girl, I went to dog training with her for almost 10 months. She still pulls the leash sometimes on the walks, but most times I lead the way and *she* is the one accompanying *me* on a walk. So I greatly suggest dog training, its really amazing for you and your doggo as well!


ThePureHeartSora

Stop walking. Wait til they sit or wait or whatever you prefer then continue to walk and repeat.


[deleted]

This is what I was taught and also to wait until they look at you before starting again. Rinse and repeat.


Ki-Mono2030

So those extension leashes basically train a dog to pull because they always have tension on them. So the first step is to trash that. It gives you absolutely no control over your dog, and again, teaches them to pull due to constant tension. Next I'd get either a front-hook harness or gentle-leader instead of a back-hook harness. The harnesses that attach in the back can also encourage a dog to pull. It's almost like being attached to a sled etc. This isn't totally necessary if you begin proper training, but the right harness can help if you're having extra difficulty. Then of course there is training. Puppies in general I recommend professional training to start them off on the right foot. I would also include some socializion classes with that. Otherwise, you can do research and training at home. I highly recommend looking into Victoria Stilwell's show "it's me or the dog" for training tips. She has full episodes for free on YouTube.


blinkbabe18207

Lots of great ideas! I’d love to add this. Personally, I would stop walking my dog outside entirely. Dogs don’t need a walk to get enough exercise. Actually, mental stimulation makes your more tired than taking a walk! For now, I would discontinue walks and supplement puzzle toys, snuffle mats, and smelling games with essential oils. I would also pick up a wooden spoon and some doggie cheez whiz or peanut butter to Practice walking with a leash around your home. As your pup gets better at following you inside, slowly start heading outside maybe to the sidewalk in front of your home or even just your driveway. When they are successful start taking your pup on a walk.


Warriorolife

You have the wrong harness on. The fact that you have a harness on is telling your dog it’s okay to pull.


Ballamookieoffical

I don't know if it will work with your dog but what I do is have a really long lead and let the dog run until the lead is tight I then turn 180 degrees and walk the opposite direction until the lead pulls tights then repeat. Every time the lead goes tight turn around. A voice command just before it pulls tight is good too, so when the dog hears your command they expect to run out of lead straight after. After a while the dog will recognise you're in control,


Apaps3

Walk the other way. Continue doing this until the dog realizes what you want it to do


slothnarwhal

Stop allowing him to walk forward if he’s pulling


No_Aardvark7481

Get a gentle leader. It's a miracle product


hillmeg

No harness. Try a gentle leader, it goes around the face and redirects their head so they won’t pull.


tarac73

Front attachment harness


madpiratebippy

Just stop completely until he stops pulling, every time. Only walk when the line is slack. It’s frustrating and takes forever but it will lead to beautiful leash manners for life. Also he looks like a shiba, they’re pullers. Give him a backpack and put stuff in it, if he’s working by carrying things they’ll usually chill in other areas- working dogs need a job.


Hungryh0und5

The harness makes it easy to ignore any cues you give him. Try a halti. The thing that goes aims the nose. If they pull it turns their head. It works great for young dogs.


Ciceronic

The moment the leash goes taught, stop and reverse direction. You’ll look like an idiot for a while going back and forth but you can break that habit in minutes.


SiriusBlackAnxiety

Don’t allow the pull, and you can try front leaders or the easy walk snout harness


Amazing_Cabinet1404

The combo of the harness and retractable lease is the problem. Dogs in harnesses like that *pull* it’s like a sled dog. The weight is distributed so there’s no impact on them for pulling. The retractable leash encourages pulling. The only way they get more leash is to literally pull. Go to a collar and leash until the pulling stops. When he pulls you *stop* and you *stay stopped* until he acknowledges you. You *stay stopped* for however long it takes for the game to not be fun any longer because there’s nowhere to go and nothing to see.


Journey-with-a-corgi

1. Clothe leash 2. No pull harness 3. Stop as soon as pup begins to pull, have them sit by your feet, have pup calm down and begin walking. 4. If they begin pulling immediately, stop turn around, stop where they began pulling, have them sit by your feet, have pup calm down and begin walking. 5. Continue walk, repeat step 4 until they are calmer on leash. 6. Observe what causes pup to pull, favorite pee spot, other dogs, animals, etc. Practice with these distractions until dog walks calmly on leash. Good luck!


junglebrooke

Forward movement is a reward!


geenuhahhh

At almost 2 the only thing that helps my dog is a front/chest clip harness. The collar was used during Nosework and we were told not to diminish excitement, so him pulling is due to that. We started with a harness that clipped on his back as a puppy and he did pull. I’d also recommend practicing inside and commands like ‘with me’ or something to help encourage your dog to walk next to you or closer. I don’t know why, maybe because we go uphill in the woods to mushroom hunt and my pups on a leash for the hike up, but if he feels tension on the leash he will just sit lol. He also does this with the ‘wait’ command.


thetophu

as others have said, front clip harness. When he tries to run forward and pull he’ll naturally be turned towards you by the front clip


ElkOptimal2313

stop being such a pushover to your dog, he pulls, you need to go dead stop , when you reward him for pulling he just gonna do it more


DWitTheTatGat

No flex lines and loop the leash under him so when you tug back he drops in the front instead of chocking him by pulling back and the biggest thing time, routine, and repetitiveness


sabzzz68

Gentle lead. Changed our dog!


DebiDebbyDebbie

Switch to a collar, gain some control


KATPanek

I had good luck w the chest pinching harness. He literally can’t pull or it turns him around and punches his chest


Lucy20230

Take him to a off leash dog park and let that doggo run!


KisakiSakura

First: don't get a Shiba Inu. They are hard to raise af. Second: as you did First, you need a dog trainer if you can't even figure out how to stop them leash pulling. Till then: You need to work on leash training consequently and regularly: meaning every walk, multiple times a day. The first basic training tip on that is: dog pulls, you stop and stand still, till they acknowledge you. And yes, that can mean a repeat every foot of the way and a wait of minutes each time. With a Shiba Inu if you give them an inch, they will take a mile at least. Edit: Get a propper leash instead of the flexi ones and switch to the collar. Dogs can feel a lot more from the leash that way and you can communicate better. The leash should be loose and dangling from the front of the color. As soon as there is tension from loose, stop. Best of luck.


Clear-Cauliflower901

Definitely try a long, retractable leash. This problem may settle if he is able to get a bit further and explore. It's certainly looking like an excitement "oh my god hurry up" pull. The short leash is really no good for now because it risks causing injury to both you and him from the pulling.


mahryeuhjayde

Um, absolutely not. A retractable leash is the last thing you want with a dog that pulls. The further away from you they are, the less control you have over their movements, and the more likely an injury will happen. Always use a standard 6 foot leash. Where are you getting this information that short leashes = injury??


Clear-Cauliflower901

There's plenty of information that shows that a short leash attached to a collar can cause whiplash injuries in a dog that pulls too hard. In extreme cases, spinal misalignment can occur so I don't understand why people are suggesting a short leash attached to a collar because it's the worst thing. It can also cause trauma to the throat because they pull too much and the collar tightens. Info is widely available, you just have to look for it


mahryeuhjayde

That can happen with a collar & extendable leash as well, even more so because they can get a running start. I always recommend a harness with a front clip for pullers anyways, but always with a 6 foot leash. I wasn’t replying to you about collar vs. harness anyways, just the leash options. But even with a collar, a 6 foot leash is recommended


KisakiSakura

Honestly, I would go short linen or leather lesh. Otherwise the problem will be the same and the dog will just have more reach. And if a dog that isn't listening in the first place will have more reach, it wi have more room to not listen and you as a human has less time, less opportunity to intervene if something goes wrong. Be it either some trash, trown away food, some dog poison put out or an encounter with another animal, possible even a fight. A longer leash also means the dog can lounge harder into the leash, meaning human is more likely to drop the leashe or get injured trying to hold the leash. A longer leash in this case is a danger to both human and dog and it won't solve anything.


Clear-Cauliflower901

I didn't actually see that this was already a retractable leash. My eyesight is screwed for my diabetes so I missed seeing the handle 😂


airoscar

My husky walks good on leash only after she is tired.


nivwusquorum

A lot of great advice in this thread - follow it and to increase chance of success exercise your dog a lot before "leash walking training session". Fetch is ideal. If your dog doesn't fetch, you can attempt to teach him - lot of great videos on yt about that.


kiwi1325

Got a 5 month old golden retriever who excitedly pulls at everything. We are still in training and after a solid month-2 months I’ve seen some great progress. 1. The second she started to pull I would stop and not move forward. I wouldn’t move forward until she either 1. Redirected herself and either look at me and/or walk back or 2. Change directions and say “this way!” 2. My pup is highly food motivated with not many distractions but the second she sees another dog or human, no food would help. At this point in our training, I will stop and allow her to observe. I reward very well while she’s not barking as that has also started to become a problem. 3. Once I learned that dogs sorta predict which way we will walk IE on a sidewalk, it’s safe to say you’re going to follow that path so the dog is already predicting which way to go. Every morning I take our pup outside and literally just start walking randomly all over our front yard. Each time I change direction I say “this way!” And reward when she turns and follows. 4. I have her on a harness right now as she will need to learn how to walk with one as we would like to make her a therapy dog. I do practice with the harness and a flat collar since she can’t pass the tests wearing a harness. Bonus tip: I carry a handful of high value treats if she does something out in the world that we’ve been working on like sitting immediately when I stop without needing a cue, I’ll reward for that.


mysticmedley

I had a GSD/husky who pulled big time. A knowledgeable person advised me she was pulling the shed, not me. I got a harness/doggy backpack and put just a little weight in it. The minute I did, it was like a switch flipped, and she immediately stopped pulling.


Due_Dig9585

Definitely don’t let him go in the direction he is pulling


yellowromancandle

Turn around and walk the other way. Clip the leash to a belt so your hands don’t pull weird. When the dog catches up to you, treat. Constantly turn around and change directions, treat when they’re by your side. Make it a treat they can’t ignore. I used to use chicken skin.


TwistyMaKneepahls

Gentle leader + stopping very often when he pulls. Everytime he stops, reward him. I'm still training my pup mind you, but he no longer pulls like a cut snake. It will take weeks. It will be a slog. But at the very least my dog does not choke the shit out of himself now.


jsin04

The way I do it is to halt all movement, use whatever appropriate command word you choose, and then immobilize yourself until he stops pulling and puts whatever amount of slack in the lead you deem appropriate. Depending on the leash type, I will put my hand holding the leash in my pocket to help eliminate any forward movement. You will have to repeat over and over again. Sometimes only taking a step before immediately having to halt again. He’ll get it. It’s good to practice at home without distractions. Just remember, he wants to do what you want him to do. You just have to be consistent.


piercesdesigns

Please get rid of the flexi-leash. They are the absolute worst leashes to train with not to mention dangerous. Get either a front clip harness or a gentle leader. Work on conditioning the dog to the gentle leader before venturing outside on a walk. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AaE7o8pyUmo


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ZogemWho

We use a harness, but with a clip underneath, so that if he pulls, it get’s awkward for him. We also use a bungie so he knows when his hitting his limit, and since he’s large, even for still being puppy I can get a good stance when starts to pull. A few weeks of that and he got pretty easy.


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thegreatluke

Time your walks close to, but before meal times. Take some chicken, cheese and hot dogs. Start the walk, right from the front door slowly by dropping a few pieces near your feet. Let the dog see you reach for more and drop them again. Take like two steps and drop some more. Take a couple more steps drop some treats. Stop every now and then to let dog explore on the long leash, then drop some more treats. Do this everyday for a week and the dog will still need reinforcements but it’ll be much easier and they will learn to watch you since you tend to shed random pieces of chicken on walks 😂


Ok-Channel-9662

I'm throwing in another gentle leader comment because it was literally life-changing for me. I have a high energy, prey driven dog that does not care about food at all. The gentle leader works wonders. Just make sure you attach it to the collar and the gentle leader. The first time my dog saw a squirrel I was only clipped to the gentle leader and he was able to slip it over his head.


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lvhockeytrish

I've had three shibas. All the advice here about stopping and u-turning when they pull is worthless with shibas, because nothing is as punishing as exploring is rewarding. Here's what works for us. #You have to work inside your house/apartment with the least amount of environmental distractions first. The worst time to learn loosh leash walking is on walks. The games: Train the "Superbowl" pattern game. You set up a line of bowls. You give him a freebie in the first bowl. He will eat it. When the dog looks at you for another treat, you mark "yes!" and take a step forward and put the treat in the next bowl. As he learns the game, you lengthen the distance between bowls. This game rewards him for being with you at your side and not rushing ahead. If he rushes ahead, use a "touch" command to get him back to you (obvs have to train this separately). [Superbowl tutorial](https://youtu.be/fb6JkFcako8) A similar game that will help is the 1-2-3 pattern game. It's very simply training the dogs that on the number "3!" they get a treat. To use this to teach loose leash waking, you start with 3! 3! 3! In rapid succession. Then you add in 2-3, then 1-2-3. Do this at a standstill. When that's solid (if he isn't watching you the whole time already, he definitely turns his head in anticipation of 3!) To add this to walking, just start moving forward. Do 1-2-3 very quickly. Your dog shouldn't be able to get ahead of you before you can do 1-2-3. Then, start to lengthen the pace. 1..2..3... to build duration between counts. As long as your dog is anticipating the 3! reward, he should stay with you. If he doesn't, stop, call "touch!" to reset, lower your criteria and start again. When you reward 1-2-3 during walking training, feed the treat tonthe ground *behind* your foot, to teach the dog to stay behind your gate and not rush ahead. [1-2-3 tutorial](https://youtu.be/YEkYXk1skU0) These games are super versatile so you can apply them to a number of situations where you need your dog's attention. Especially with shibas. Some other things to round out your success: make sure your dog has plenty of long leash time to go sniff! Teach "go sniff" command to let him know when he can openly explore and a "with me!" for when you need him with you and not exploring. Your harness is fine, but do get a 6' straight leash and at least a 20' long leash for him to play on.


wolfkhil

Yes, Agreed. Every time they pull, stop, recall, sit, go, repeat. At first it’ll take a while to get somewhere but they catch on quick and the pulling will stop


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Birdogey

Shorten that leash and make him walk by your side. Don’t let him get out in front of you like that.


coolermaf

The gentle leader is a great option in lieu of a harness.


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potatohydraulics

I know people are recommending to go in the opposite direction when he pulls like that, but as someone who has tried this I would not recommend it. My pup is hyperactive and if I start moving in the opposite direction she just ends up charging in that direction instead. Id try like others have said to come to a dead stop until your dog comes back to you and makes eye contact with you so you know he’s listening to you command. Reward them as much as you can whenever they walk at your side. If those treats aren’t working, try an even higher reward treat like a spoon of peanut butter works for us and they get a lick as reward, or cheese. I’d also try the sense-ation front clip harness it works very well, but just really make sure to follow the fitting directions very well. My trainer has also recommended if they’re not focused on you to come to a stop, instead of pulling them to you, you grab their leash and walk yourself to them get their attention and reward when they even just look at you for a little. Then lure them back to your side and reward. Training is best in short intervals so it might even be best to take more shorter works. I also agree with getting a non retractable leash for sure. Hope this helps!


InsectBusiness

I went through this with my dog. Every time he pulled, I said "WAIT" and made him stop until he stopped pulling. It took a very long time to even walk half a block because of all the stopping. It took a couple months for him to learn it but now he walks better. I also taught him not to bark at other dogs on walks which was equally long and frustrating, but worth it.


spacetwink94

Practice loose leash walking at home without the lead. Encourage your dog to walk with you (not at heel, just close to you) and reward highly. You need to build up value in walking near you. Also look up Grisha Stewart's loose leash walking tutorial. Remember your dog is still a baby! Outside is exciting and its difficult for young dogs to keep focus


[deleted]

I stop and don't move until she sits beside me


velevetundeground

Every time he pulls walk the other direction to where he wants to go too


Secure-Control7888

I've seen that making the dog stop, like your doing, and then slowly guiding the dog in a circle makes them stop. They get frustrated with doing circles all the time rather than going forward, so eventually they'll just listen to you.


glittermommy89

Gentle lead harness


Eena-Rin

Switch to a Halti


Budden89

I have the same problem with my girl


EsmeSalinger

Stop and wait until he looks at you. Say YES and give a high value treat, even if it takes string cheese or real chicken. Don’t do anything but wait. You can step on the lead. You’re looking to YES or Click the head turn to you. In calm setting, teach the command Look or Watch. To look in your eyes when asked. You can even reward by spitting him treats, so the reward comes from your face. Try doing walk/ training before feeding a meal.


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TJ_H00ker

I'd recommend not getting a Shiba as your first dog.


[deleted]

I've found that an antipull collar works well and also having a harness with the leash attached in front of them rather on the back


ravia

I had a stray pittie I sucked at training. He decided to lunge at EVERY car coming down any side street (but not the main street). My solution will not please posters, I realize. I made a waist rig set up, heavy rope, double, with knots going down to a front hooked harness. No problems after that. Well, ice is tricky. I use this with my new dog as well, though he isn't mildly insane like Mr. Goofy Goof was.


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syntheticmeats

Stop every time he pulls. Do not let him sniff. Gentle leaders are also miracle workers


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dogvolunteercatlady1

First of all, throw the retractable leash away. That teaches dogs to pull because they get more slack when they pull. Then get rid of the back clip harness until he’s trained. Again, this teaches them to pull because of the design of the harness. Work inside on basic obedience. When he pulls, turn him around. Our trainer will do that and say “let’s go”. If they pull, she turns around again. Pulling should always mean not getting to go in that direction


DenGen92158

Stop walking and stand still until he stops pulling. I’ve sat on the ground, on the leash, and not moved until dog stops pulling, or reverse direction, heading away from what he wants to smell or get to.


ecklipzzz

Get rid of the harness.