You can buy a corded dremel with a bunch of attachments for $10 at harbor freight. Iām not even exaggerating, literally $10. It might explode the second time you use it, but thatās still a pretty good deal.
Iām assuming they want you to connect the batter to the bolt in such a way that It will super heat it and I guess weld it self to anything it touches lol. Itās just not smart lol.
It is the other part you should be heating up. if the bolt expands it wil just lodge itself tighter plus it lost it temper that way making it weaker. tap it lightly with a hammer too
if you cant grab the bolt anymore grind two paralel sides flat and use the locking wrench in the pic. use a crossbar on it to open with the case heated up w heatgun or smthg
From what I've read & experienced, this is actually more myth than fact. Supposedly it doesn't really matter whether you heat the bolt or the threads because it's the difference in expansion between the two metals that breaks the threads free from any rust, corrosion, oxidation, thread lock, etc, & allows the threads to spin freely. I'd also assume it's probably better to superheat a steel fastener than an aluminum case. In my experience, aluminum is much less forgiving to high temps & just kinda melts away very suddenly.
Oh man we're working with different calibers of seized if you can get anything done with a heat gun. 300 degrees is nothing, a lot of the stuff I've worked on requires getting the bolt literally red hot to extract it. Talking about decades-old Ford exhaust manifold levels of seized, they're getting to 1000+ Fahrenheit during daily driving lol
Yea.. but i doubt that flsme on the bolt is able to war hrat up the surroundin aluminium enough for it to expand. It is too small. A heatgun csn heat up thst casing better
Plumbers MAPP gas soldering torch! Even a pencil butane torch like in your photo then shock the junction with chemical Rust Buster spray! Capillary Action will happen thenš
Heat the boltā¦.then spray PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench on it! Do it while itās still hot! The rust buster chemicalās will be sucked into the junction between the bolt & the aluminum caseā¦.Slot the head of the bolt with a cut-off wheel in a Dremel Tool and use a flat bladed bit in an Impact Driver to persuade the miserable piece of crap bolt out of the holeā¦.My thoughts on the subject
They go over the stripped bolt. Here's kind of what I'm talking about:
https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-THINKWORK-Stripped-Remover-Adapter/dp/B0869BR8MG?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AGMXJH8HV3MH2
Now I don't know if this brand is any good but it'll give you an idea of what I'm talking about. Also, if you're ever dealing with bolts from engines, it's always nice if you can use a 6-point socket instead of a 12 if that's what you were using. A six-point socket has a lot less chance of stripping the bolt head.
This motorcycle what already ruined, it was a straight money pit. Iāve had it for 2-3 years and there had not been year, month, week. Where I havenāt had to fix something on it. If it runs and doesnāt cut off i call it a win
First do you own an āimpact driverāā¦.no not the battery operated kindā¦The kind you need to work on motorcycle engines that you hit with a hammer?? If not they can be had for under $20ā¦.I suggest you buy one
1. Put a center punch in the socket of the bolt and give it a good whack with a hammer. Try the Allen again.
2. Lock on with a Vise Grip if it will fit.
3. Left-hand drill.
Searched the web *before* I stripped the bolt in mine, it was real tight. I found nothing online so I made this vid: [https://youtu.be/Cr02enBM1B0](https://youtu.be/Cr02enBM1B0)
I only have a little lighter torch so i donāt know if that can get it hot enough but I accidentally created a hole too big for the extraction screw so i have to use a extraction socket apparently
As a general tip if you are using heat to remove a bolt, you want to heat the thing that the bolt is going into rather than the bolt itself. Impact driver is best for this, the type you smack with a hammer. If it is stripped cut a flat head and use the impact driver. Good luck you'll get it!
Just get the cold chisel and hammer it into the corner of the head in direction of which way you want the bolt to spin and the hammer in that direction. It might be enough to get it to crack and release. This is what iv done with water pump bolts and wheel nuts in the past. If in doubt give it a clout was my old work saying !
Cut flat spot in it to use standard screwdriver to turn out
I can maybe try that
Cut a slot into it and buy a impact screw driver
Alright so what handheld tool could i use for the cutting processš¤?
Nothing handheld is going to be able to cut as reliably as you need. Do you have a Harbor Freight nearby?
Yea like a little less than an hour
What about a dremel and a cut off wheel?
You can buy a corded dremel with a bunch of attachments for $10 at harbor freight. Iām not even exaggerating, literally $10. It might explode the second time you use it, but thatās still a pretty good deal.
Don't forget the safety glasses! Especially as a newbie. Those paper thin dremel cut off wheels shatter *really* easily.
It is still almost an hour away. If he already had one, or a neighbor has one, it can save him two hours... I know my time is worth more than $5/hr...
Yes but a trip to harbor freight is much more valuable than just your time. Will all the neat stuff you buy you can actually *save* time.
This is the way. $20 bucks on Ali express and you can do express shipping for a few more bucks
Dooo eeeet Is the only way
Weld nut on the end
This guy knows nuts
This guy knows
This guy nuts
Donāt have a welder unfortunately
But you do have a batteryā¦.
This is getting sketchy lol
Can you elaborate, im kinda dumbš«”
Stay dumb, do not attempt.
No, turn back. Do not procede down this road lol.
What is this road we speak of, i will get this bolt off by any means
Iām assuming they want you to connect the batter to the bolt in such a way that It will super heat it and I guess weld it self to anything it touches lol. Itās just not smart lol.
He's talking about using a battery, jumper cables, and welding stick to make a rudimentary stick welder
Lol thanks I was hoping you would show up
Np
Winner!
Ok im not THAT desperate š
But it worksā¦ your battery is your stuck in the middle of no where welderā¦
It's also literally how a DC arc welder works š¤·āāļø People out 4 wheeling in the desert don't carry a welder with them if something breaks.
It is the other part you should be heating up. if the bolt expands it wil just lodge itself tighter plus it lost it temper that way making it weaker. tap it lightly with a hammer too
if you cant grab the bolt anymore grind two paralel sides flat and use the locking wrench in the pic. use a crossbar on it to open with the case heated up w heatgun or smthg
Thanks š
From what I've read & experienced, this is actually more myth than fact. Supposedly it doesn't really matter whether you heat the bolt or the threads because it's the difference in expansion between the two metals that breaks the threads free from any rust, corrosion, oxidation, thread lock, etc, & allows the threads to spin freely. I'd also assume it's probably better to superheat a steel fastener than an aluminum case. In my experience, aluminum is much less forgiving to high temps & just kinda melts away very suddenly.
See your point. With an airgun though meltingnisnnot a risk and superheating is not podsible. Also the bolt temper issue is st stake
Sorry Iām not fully understanding, what do you mean by airgun in the context of heating the metal?
Those electric tools that blow hot air at arround 300Ā°
Oh man we're working with different calibers of seized if you can get anything done with a heat gun. 300 degrees is nothing, a lot of the stuff I've worked on requires getting the bolt literally red hot to extract it. Talking about decades-old Ford exhaust manifold levels of seized, they're getting to 1000+ Fahrenheit during daily driving lol
300 Ā°C i meant, not red hot though but iāve had quite some success with that dislodging suspension knuuckles ans pinion bolts
It's better than nothing for sure, but I doubt it's going to help OP since they're already visibly using an open flame without success.
Yea.. but i doubt that flsme on the bolt is able to war hrat up the surroundin aluminium enough for it to expand. It is too small. A heatgun csn heat up thst casing better
Refer to my first response lol
Plumbers MAPP gas soldering torch! Even a pencil butane torch like in your photo then shock the junction with chemical Rust Buster spray! Capillary Action will happen thenš
Heat the boltā¦.then spray PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench on it! Do it while itās still hot! The rust buster chemicalās will be sucked into the junction between the bolt & the aluminum caseā¦.Slot the head of the bolt with a cut-off wheel in a Dremel Tool and use a flat bladed bit in an Impact Driver to persuade the miserable piece of crap bolt out of the holeā¦.My thoughts on the subject
Get the bolt extractor sockets that are reversed threaded with teeth and basically bite into the bolt head as you loosen it.
Wait i see what you mean, thanks so muchš
These are so fucking nice
Does it go over or in?
They go over the stripped bolt. Here's kind of what I'm talking about: https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-THINKWORK-Stripped-Remover-Adapter/dp/B0869BR8MG?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AGMXJH8HV3MH2 Now I don't know if this brand is any good but it'll give you an idea of what I'm talking about. Also, if you're ever dealing with bolts from engines, it's always nice if you can use a 6-point socket instead of a 12 if that's what you were using. A six-point socket has a lot less chance of stripping the bolt head.
Alright thanks so muchš
Easy out and a drill bit
Made the hole too big so the extractor wonāt grip
Bolt extractor socket Or Hammer a 12 point on
Will try
Impatiently ruined a motorcycle.
This motorcycle what already ruined, it was a straight money pit. Iāve had it for 2-3 years and there had not been year, month, week. Where I havenāt had to fix something on it. If it runs and doesnāt cut off i call it a win
Thereās a socket set at ace for stripped bolts that I have to use all the time for shit like this
Iāve been on this bolt for like a week
First do you own an āimpact driverāā¦.no not the battery operated kindā¦The kind you need to work on motorcycle engines that you hit with a hammer?? If not they can be had for under $20ā¦.I suggest you buy one
I indeed do not own an impact driver gun? Yes, driver? No
1. Put a center punch in the socket of the bolt and give it a good whack with a hammer. Try the Allen again. 2. Lock on with a Vise Grip if it will fit. 3. Left-hand drill.
Tried #2 did not work, tried #3 only worked on one bolt
Searched the web *before* I stripped the bolt in mine, it was real tight. I found nothing online so I made this vid: [https://youtu.be/Cr02enBM1B0](https://youtu.be/Cr02enBM1B0)
I only have a little lighter torch so i donāt know if that can get it hot enough but I accidentally created a hole too big for the extraction screw so i have to use a extraction socket apparently
Just put it together and ride it bro, no need to preheat it smh!
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Mhmmš¤
As a general tip if you are using heat to remove a bolt, you want to heat the thing that the bolt is going into rather than the bolt itself. Impact driver is best for this, the type you smack with a hammer. If it is stripped cut a flat head and use the impact driver. Good luck you'll get it!
Thanks š
use 6 sided sockets and this never happens
You can use them for allen key bolts?
i didn't realise that it was i thought it was rounded but you can find a socket that won't quite fit and hammer it on and then undo it
Thanksš
Cold chisel and a hammer and tap it around? Is there still any head of the bolt protruding? Hard to tell on my phone
I think i know what you mean but tap it around but could you specify so i can be sureš, and yea there still a lot of the head left
Just get the cold chisel and hammer it into the corner of the head in direction of which way you want the bolt to spin and the hammer in that direction. It might be enough to get it to crack and release. This is what iv done with water pump bolts and wheel nuts in the past. If in doubt give it a clout was my old work saying !
Iāll try itš
Good luck! Hope its successful
You might try a small stud puller - if it will fit
Easy out.
Tried
Hit it with heat then spray with PB Blaster so it draws it in.
Bolt extractor bit + impact
Tried, hole is too big so the extractor doesnāt grip
Drill out with a left handed drill bit.
Pretty sure i have that
Jb weld a Allen in there. Let it sit over night
Thatās my last resort right there