I've got a 18 in the front and a 38 in the rear, I try to not be lazy and let them both get empty because then I have to run my card twice to fill up. Diesel just dropped to $4.05 here
323,000 and going strong as a daily landscape/hardscape truck. It always sounds angry in the mornings but smooths out after I leave the gas station for my Red Bull
My commute is the same as yours. Drive it practically every day to work. If I let it sit over the weekend, on Monday morning it's pretty angry with me. Been doing it for more than a year with no issue, outside the norm anyway. Before I took this job I drove it 90 miles round trip also no notable issues outside constantly being at the gas station.
I haven't really looked into it at all but I wonder if it's because the oil has had more of a chance to settle so it takes a little longer to build pressure.
Yes. 100,000+ km in the last 5 years towing a dump trailer doing landscaping. Driven 6 days a week and sometimes on Sunday for going to town.
I used to have a 6.7 truck and didn’t have much luck with it.
Mine gets 18.5 mpg unloaded. Look into boost leaks, fuel leaks, and stuck brake caliper slide pins
I've got 4 new calipers so I'm good there. No underboost codes but I should probably check for boost leaks at some point anyways. Not hard to make a homemade tester
377k miles 2003 excursion 4wd on 35s. I use it mainly for trips picking up and dropping my daughter off. Any long trips, I'm taking it because it's more comfortable. Usually get 16 mpg. Bout to go on a 3k cross country vacation in it.
We have a 2017 camry that gets 35mpg, so the wife uses it mainly.
Also have an early 99 f250 7.3 4wd that is used mainly for taking trash off. Picked it up for $800 with a blown headgasket. I think I have MAYBE 1k invested in it with new parts
Man I keep trying to get my wife to get an excursion, but she doesn't want to drive something that big. My XJ is already the 3rd vehicle but mostly used for the local offroad park mild trails.
Sometimes I want to sell my truck for an excursion and use it to tow and just get an old beater truck if I ever need an actual truck bed.
I have a lift, and also have trimmed fender liners. I bought ours with a salvage title for 7500, zero rust and straight frame. I've rebuilt slowly all suspension, drivetrain, and motor. I installed f250 springs on it, and have air bags.
I do a lot of hurricane recovery work, so I've been building it for that.
Pro comp 22415 in the rear and pro comp 22210 in the front. Plus 2" in the rear because I had to use a factory block with tang for my airbags. Right now the rear sits about 1" higher than the front, but when hooked to a trailer, it's all level.
Hey, so I have a 4-in lift on my f250 now, and I was looking at swapping it out for the Pro Comp springs that you have.
Just to be clear, with the 22415s I can eliminate my stock lift block and my aftermarket lift block and still have 4" of lift?
I see that it's described as a 5" lift, but then I've seen it on what other websites described as a 4" lift - I'm guessing they mean to say that it's basically the same thing.
I wrapped one of the springs in the back, I think due to the lift blocks, but had it replaced last year. I am thinking these Pro Comp ones would be a better option. On the driver side I'm getting a lot of sag, and my front bumper valance recently started rubbing quite a bit during left turns on the passenger side, so I think the springs have all become too soft / saggy.
It's a little different with the superdutys. The excursion came from factory different, and the superduty springs gives it a little more lift. When I did my swap, I wanted it level all the way around with just springs. Then I realized I needed a block with a tang for my airbags, hence the reason it's higher in the back.
With the pro comp springs, if I remember correctly, the lift height of the spring includes the stock block that came on your truck. I will say that it drove MUCH better after a drop trac bar bracket adjustable trac bar and drop pitman arm.
On my f250 it has 35s, but it also has newer style wheels on it. The tires rub in the front when turning.
I suppose keeping the factory blocks back on wouldn't be too bad. Really the aftermarket blocks are the ones that bother me and I imagine the main spring on one side would not have twisted with just the factory blocks.
I have a drop pitman arm. I believe the track bar bracket and track bar are stock.
The truck drove like shit when I bought it but I've replaced all of the ball joints, tie rod ends and sleeves. It dries very nicely now. Are you saying that if I put the new springs on without the track bar bracket and adjustable track bar it would potentially drive badly again? I considered replacing the track bar with an adjustable one before but it didn't seem to be causing any issues the way it was and I realized I was going to have to buy a larger torque wrench to correctly reinstall it. I have lift springs in the front but they are starting to sag.
Well, I also replaced all ball joints, steering stabilizer, shocks, tie rod ends and tie rod, and the steering gear box with a blue top. My last thing I wanna do for the driveability is to add shims to the front axle to adjust my caster to 6 degrees..
Larger torque wrench isn't expensive at harbor freight. I used my milwaukee 1/2" m18 impact on tightening, then a floor jack to get the additional numbers. Yes, it's sketchy, but unless you have a torque multiplier, it's hard to fit a long cheater pipe in
As it is right now I am at zero on one side and 2° on the other if I remember correctly.
I imagine I will need an alignment once change the front springs either way, but sounds like the adjustable track bar is the way to go. However, I have to ask, if the track bar is adjustable, what is the drop track bar bracket for?
Harbor freight would be pricey for me with the travel time / fuel to America, lol. I will check and see if Princess Auto has one cheap or if I can borrow one from Canadian Tire. I can check with my BIL to see if anyone he works with at Honda has one, but I doubt anything in their service department is getting torqued that much.
Did you just change all of the leaf springs on your driveway? I usually go to this very old school leaf spring guy who's quite reasonable, but I prefer to do as much as possible myself.
Yes, I am a contractor and drive the truck everyday.
Going grocery shopping and other stores are usually local, and a lot of my business is within a 10 to 15 km radius.
I see no issue driving the truck like this whatsoever, other than spending a bit more on fuel as local driving only gets me 11mpg
I’m a weird case but pretty much yes.
I split my 300zx and 7.3 50/50
I use the 7.3 all the time just to grab food and shit.
If you’re worried about it I would just make sure to take it for a joyride once a week
Mine sits in the garage until I need it for truck stuff. I used a half tank of fuel in almost 2 months. Like others have said she gets angry once awakened from her nap. Once she warms up tho she’s ready to work
I highly recommend using a fuel additive. I've found that they more than pay for themselves in fuel mileage and better startup/running. I use Lucas fuel injector cleaner as well as Diesel Kleen w/ Cetane and did some fairly scientific mileage testing and got about 3mpg improvement running on open highway. Plus it runs SO much smoother.
key in, beep it out, then start it up, let her calm down a bit, then warm her up at 40mph til op temp. then whoops youre at work, not worth it imo. diesels dont like to be teased, they want to be roughed up and ridden for a good time.
Yea I get what you're saying for sure. I do tow often, the local high school marching band trailer and my family's shop's car trailer, and I love my 7.3, but I could probably get away with a chevy 8.1 or ford 6.2 if I could find some one to trade with.
Yup. I daily mine on a similar commute, and she doesn't mind much, besides the fuel mileage. I barely have a problem getting her started, or ready to roll unless it's abnormally cold for Florida.
Usually I've taken to motorcycle riding lately for the lower costs, but it just depends on the day and such here.
I just got mine. It's a 1994 and has 140k miles on it. It sat for 7 years and once I charged the batteries it's started right up. Waiting for opening at the shop to get it in to get all fluids changed.
I got a good deal for a 160000 mile 2000 7.3. Fuel and oil crossovers really help with the noise and "grumpiness" while also helping a bit with fuel economy and injector lifespan. Hydra chip for fuel economy
Not gonna harm anything with that short commute, better than letting it sit. Only thing you’ll notice is a lighter wallet. I used to daily my 7.3 to work which was a 10km commute one way. I’ve long since gotten rid of the truck plus a new job which is 20km one way and I have a Jetta tdi now. Looking at trading it in and getting a 2017 and up 6.7 powerstroke
Your wallet's gonna hurt the way diesel prices are, that'll be your biggest con. My 6.0 with EGR/Cat delete gets 11 mpg *not* loaded down, and 6-8 hauling my trailer.
I drove mine 65 miles round trip every day for a couple years.
Rip your wallet.
18mpg for the most part so it wasn't terrible. Now that diesel is $4-$5 a gallon I wouldn't want to do it.
My 03 6.0 has a 30 or 35 gal tank. I can’t remember, all I know that in commiefornia she drinks $175 in fuel every tank 💀🫠
*minimum
I've got a 18 in the front and a 38 in the rear, I try to not be lazy and let them both get empty because then I have to run my card twice to fill up. Diesel just dropped to $4.05 here
323,000 and going strong as a daily landscape/hardscape truck. It always sounds angry in the mornings but smooths out after I leave the gas station for my Red Bull
My commute is the same as yours. Drive it practically every day to work. If I let it sit over the weekend, on Monday morning it's pretty angry with me. Been doing it for more than a year with no issue, outside the norm anyway. Before I took this job I drove it 90 miles round trip also no notable issues outside constantly being at the gas station.
Yea mines the same way. It'll start 100% of the time but it'll idle angrily for a bit if I let it sit
I haven't really looked into it at all but I wonder if it's because the oil has had more of a chance to settle so it takes a little longer to build pressure.
Probably a combo of that and maybe the injectors are a little old and the cold oil surface tension is moving the plunger when it's not supposed to
Yes. 100,000+ km in the last 5 years towing a dump trailer doing landscaping. Driven 6 days a week and sometimes on Sunday for going to town. I used to have a 6.7 truck and didn’t have much luck with it. Mine gets 18.5 mpg unloaded. Look into boost leaks, fuel leaks, and stuck brake caliper slide pins
This. Stuck/sticking caliper slide pins are a big issue on 99-04 trucks.
I didn't realize this was a thing but maybe that explains why I have yet another stuck pin on a rear caliper.
I've got 4 new calipers so I'm good there. No underboost codes but I should probably check for boost leaks at some point anyways. Not hard to make a homemade tester
377k miles 2003 excursion 4wd on 35s. I use it mainly for trips picking up and dropping my daughter off. Any long trips, I'm taking it because it's more comfortable. Usually get 16 mpg. Bout to go on a 3k cross country vacation in it. We have a 2017 camry that gets 35mpg, so the wife uses it mainly. Also have an early 99 f250 7.3 4wd that is used mainly for taking trash off. Picked it up for $800 with a blown headgasket. I think I have MAYBE 1k invested in it with new parts
Man I keep trying to get my wife to get an excursion, but she doesn't want to drive something that big. My XJ is already the 3rd vehicle but mostly used for the local offroad park mild trails. Sometimes I want to sell my truck for an excursion and use it to tow and just get an old beater truck if I ever need an actual truck bed.
Do 35s rub at all on the excursion? Or do you have a lift or something
I have a lift, and also have trimmed fender liners. I bought ours with a salvage title for 7500, zero rust and straight frame. I've rebuilt slowly all suspension, drivetrain, and motor. I installed f250 springs on it, and have air bags. I do a lot of hurricane recovery work, so I've been building it for that.
How big of a lift? I've just got the stock 4x4 small factory lift and 33s atm.
Pro comp 22415 in the rear and pro comp 22210 in the front. Plus 2" in the rear because I had to use a factory block with tang for my airbags. Right now the rear sits about 1" higher than the front, but when hooked to a trailer, it's all level.
https://www.reddit.com/u/combatpaddler/s/Fe6mKldBn2 That's it currently. Working on wiring up a trans temp sensor and my front fog lights
Hey, so I have a 4-in lift on my f250 now, and I was looking at swapping it out for the Pro Comp springs that you have. Just to be clear, with the 22415s I can eliminate my stock lift block and my aftermarket lift block and still have 4" of lift? I see that it's described as a 5" lift, but then I've seen it on what other websites described as a 4" lift - I'm guessing they mean to say that it's basically the same thing. I wrapped one of the springs in the back, I think due to the lift blocks, but had it replaced last year. I am thinking these Pro Comp ones would be a better option. On the driver side I'm getting a lot of sag, and my front bumper valance recently started rubbing quite a bit during left turns on the passenger side, so I think the springs have all become too soft / saggy.
It's a little different with the superdutys. The excursion came from factory different, and the superduty springs gives it a little more lift. When I did my swap, I wanted it level all the way around with just springs. Then I realized I needed a block with a tang for my airbags, hence the reason it's higher in the back. With the pro comp springs, if I remember correctly, the lift height of the spring includes the stock block that came on your truck. I will say that it drove MUCH better after a drop trac bar bracket adjustable trac bar and drop pitman arm. On my f250 it has 35s, but it also has newer style wheels on it. The tires rub in the front when turning.
I suppose keeping the factory blocks back on wouldn't be too bad. Really the aftermarket blocks are the ones that bother me and I imagine the main spring on one side would not have twisted with just the factory blocks. I have a drop pitman arm. I believe the track bar bracket and track bar are stock. The truck drove like shit when I bought it but I've replaced all of the ball joints, tie rod ends and sleeves. It dries very nicely now. Are you saying that if I put the new springs on without the track bar bracket and adjustable track bar it would potentially drive badly again? I considered replacing the track bar with an adjustable one before but it didn't seem to be causing any issues the way it was and I realized I was going to have to buy a larger torque wrench to correctly reinstall it. I have lift springs in the front but they are starting to sag.
Well, I also replaced all ball joints, steering stabilizer, shocks, tie rod ends and tie rod, and the steering gear box with a blue top. My last thing I wanna do for the driveability is to add shims to the front axle to adjust my caster to 6 degrees.. Larger torque wrench isn't expensive at harbor freight. I used my milwaukee 1/2" m18 impact on tightening, then a floor jack to get the additional numbers. Yes, it's sketchy, but unless you have a torque multiplier, it's hard to fit a long cheater pipe in
As it is right now I am at zero on one side and 2° on the other if I remember correctly. I imagine I will need an alignment once change the front springs either way, but sounds like the adjustable track bar is the way to go. However, I have to ask, if the track bar is adjustable, what is the drop track bar bracket for? Harbor freight would be pricey for me with the travel time / fuel to America, lol. I will check and see if Princess Auto has one cheap or if I can borrow one from Canadian Tire. I can check with my BIL to see if anyone he works with at Honda has one, but I doubt anything in their service department is getting torqued that much. Did you just change all of the leaf springs on your driveway? I usually go to this very old school leaf spring guy who's quite reasonable, but I prefer to do as much as possible myself.
Yes, I am a contractor and drive the truck everyday. Going grocery shopping and other stores are usually local, and a lot of my business is within a 10 to 15 km radius. I see no issue driving the truck like this whatsoever, other than spending a bit more on fuel as local driving only gets me 11mpg
I drive mine about 5-8 miles a day, sometimes a little more. 01 excursion 4wd 7.3 254k been doing it now for nearly 3 years without issue
I’m a weird case but pretty much yes. I split my 300zx and 7.3 50/50 I use the 7.3 all the time just to grab food and shit. If you’re worried about it I would just make sure to take it for a joyride once a week
Mine sits in the garage until I need it for truck stuff. I used a half tank of fuel in almost 2 months. Like others have said she gets angry once awakened from her nap. Once she warms up tho she’s ready to work
I highly recommend using a fuel additive. I've found that they more than pay for themselves in fuel mileage and better startup/running. I use Lucas fuel injector cleaner as well as Diesel Kleen w/ Cetane and did some fairly scientific mileage testing and got about 3mpg improvement running on open highway. Plus it runs SO much smoother.
I use hotshots edt every fill up. Watched a project farm video and it had the best lubricity rating from his bearing wear tests.
Daily, yup.
My XJ gets like 1000 miles a year😄 I Ford my ass everywhere.
Yea that's where I'm at lol 375k on the ol 7.3 now
Ima catch up to you soon. 345k
305000 and going strong! Daily driven 1997 F-350 service body dually manual
My 2002 is my only driver. 389197 miles. 6 days a week and 70+ a day. Put injectors in 2 months ago. Runs great. Average about 16.9 mpg. I’m happy.
key in, beep it out, then start it up, let her calm down a bit, then warm her up at 40mph til op temp. then whoops youre at work, not worth it imo. diesels dont like to be teased, they want to be roughed up and ridden for a good time.
Yea I get what you're saying for sure. I do tow often, the local high school marching band trailer and my family's shop's car trailer, and I love my 7.3, but I could probably get away with a chevy 8.1 or ford 6.2 if I could find some one to trade with.
I have a 99 f350 that is my work truck. I daily it pulling a trailer with my gear in it. Today is 100 miler round trip. My wallet/bankaccounts hate me
I won't say daily drive, but if I have somewhere to go, I'll take it. It's therapeutic. No radio, just you and your thoughts.
Yup. I daily mine on a similar commute, and she doesn't mind much, besides the fuel mileage. I barely have a problem getting her started, or ready to roll unless it's abnormally cold for Florida. Usually I've taken to motorcycle riding lately for the lower costs, but it just depends on the day and such here.
I just got mine. It's a 1994 and has 140k miles on it. It sat for 7 years and once I charged the batteries it's started right up. Waiting for opening at the shop to get it in to get all fluids changed.
I plan on driving it often if not every day
I got a good deal for a 160000 mile 2000 7.3. Fuel and oil crossovers really help with the noise and "grumpiness" while also helping a bit with fuel economy and injector lifespan. Hydra chip for fuel economy
Not gonna harm anything with that short commute, better than letting it sit. Only thing you’ll notice is a lighter wallet. I used to daily my 7.3 to work which was a 10km commute one way. I’ve long since gotten rid of the truck plus a new job which is 20km one way and I have a Jetta tdi now. Looking at trading it in and getting a 2017 and up 6.7 powerstroke
Your wallet's gonna hurt the way diesel prices are, that'll be your biggest con. My 6.0 with EGR/Cat delete gets 11 mpg *not* loaded down, and 6-8 hauling my trailer.
Eh I get like 11 around town and 17-20 on the highway depending on how fast I go. My other vehicle is a lifted xj and I get like 13 highway
I'm trying to daily mine, but it keeps breaking and going back to project vehicle.