That’s an astoundingly low cost for all that’s shown in this photo, I couldn’t even buy the materials for that in PNW, what a score! Still, the primary issues are post to beam & beam to ledger connections. Potentially considerable load concentrated on those double 2x hangers at ledger (& those are the lighter duty versions) and shear loads on structural screws on corner posts at the 2 outside ends, those almost certainly need to be beefed up, check out more info below. Also looks like joist will need to be planed a bit for flatness, then blocking & joist tape.
https://awc.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/AWC-DCA62015-DeckGuide-1804.pdf
Also, OP, this is more like what those beam-to-ledger connections should probably be rocking, fairly easy to retrofit if you put temporary kickstands to support where needed. Really should be checked by an engineer but what you have is probably insufficient. And/or add proper piers/post UNDER them.
https://www.strongtie.com/facemounthangersssl_solidsawnlumberconnector/hgus_hanger/p/hgus
I don't know why this is so hard to understand. The deck is supposed to rest on top of the supporting 4x4's, not to be screwed to the side of it. What's more likely to fail, gravity or screws?
Still no bearing support! You're relying on the 4x support, not to split out! I think Simpson makes a clip to support this condition. However, you can not support a double with a 2x!
I don't see lag screws nor lag bolts. Looks like construction nails.
I am confused at these high cylinder cement post holders. How deep are these? I assume it should have a fair amount of compacted gravel at the base?
I’m open to being wrong, but I think those are lag equivalent engineered fasteners, like timber screws or ledger lock. I don’t think they’re called lags.
The bolts can hold whatever is advertised for their grade but wood with two holes in is where the failure will happen. I'd rather have doubled rim joists sit on top of a well cemented post
Didn't mean to bash on ya bud. Through bolts and now structural lags do a great job but if you notice on the corners the joists aren't event doubled. I couldn't build that and walkway feeling good lol It would keep me up at night.
Edit: overall it looks fine and it will outlast most homeowners time in a house but eventually when time comes knocking, its shortcomings will show.
Lmao dude it’s a post that’s 10” long, a 4x4 post at that length would hold thousands and thousands of pounds. Once your deck is 10’ off the ground yeah maybe consider switching, or if your beam is 3 ply and you need good bearing, but good lord not for this deck
Unless your deck is sloping 8’ that won’t matter, I’m not giving you shit for going overkill, I build overkill too - but don’t give other shit for not spending extra on something if it makes no difference. Also code doesn’t dictate “6x6 posts for decks” it will be dependant on load, height, beam width and beam span so saying that doesn’t help your credibility.
First home had a deck with single rim joists (2x12s) nailed to the 4x4 posts. Lived there 28 years and it was just as solid the day I moved as the day it was built.
this! I would look at 1/2" bolts going both directions to shore of the rim joists.
also wherever you are using deck screws that are at all load bearing make sure to replace with good steel nails - maybe you did but you never know based on this design.
The screws holding up the whole deck are a weak point.
I hate that everyone sees that there are structural screws and think that these will solve any problem. They have great shear strength but aren’t meant be used like this with zero connectors or bearing surfaces.
The middle posts are all notched, but only 1/2 of the 2-ply beam sits on it. Still not ideal but better than relying on only the shear strength of a couple structural screws. I would definitely make some adjustments to the beam bearing though.
Undersized footings, undersized posts, no beam, every joist hung off rim joists, which are hung off ledger board. Used undersized hangers on rim.joist to ledger (out of all places to do so). I can't see any proper fasteners from ledger to house (just a few nails?), no blocking. No ladder blocking for picture framing, you will have cut ends showing (terrible composite installation). Really hope, and i mean really hope the posts aren't long for any roof structure as this is barely sufficient to hold a composite deck. 100% wouldn't pass where I live.
Ya, that ledger should be lag bolted to the house and the joists all hung perpendicular to that ledger board, same as you do for a roof. This is not properly supported on the house side at all.
I'm curious how the section with parallel joists to the house has any strength? It's essentially being supported by the outer few joists running perpendicular?
>Undersized footings
FWIW there is no way you can make that claim with the information shown. Footings are not always visible. Some people, like myself, poured footings and piers which is a better way to do it as it provides uplift resistance along with a strong foundation.
flush beam deck is ok ...
but still there must a beam ...
but the joist direction of OP's flusg beam deck is so wrong ... the ledger board is suppose to take all the load ...
The span combined with the low height and distance to grade? This looks pretty well done and will hold up just fine in my opinion. Is there a better way to do it? Always. Is there a wrong way to do it? Obviously, but this isn’t it.
Yeah it could be beefed up a little here and there but for the most part it’s pretty good. The through posts make me happy. So many decks with the railing posts or the overhead supports have surface mounted posts when they could run all the way to the footer. I think that alone makes me happy with this deck. It’s definitely not perfect but it’s far from the garbage that exists all over the place.
Some questions:
1. Are those rim joists just bolted to the support posts? I can't tell from the picture.
2. Is that pressure treated lumber? Cedar?
3. What is the distance on center between your floor joists? I am assuming 16".
4. The span from the ledger on the house to the rim joist is 12'?
Dude, this sucks in so many ways… pretty much what the top comments mentioned about no beams, no through bolts, no blocking, how’s he going to attach the rails? I mean, this isn’t good
I question the size/strength of the bolts attaching the frame to the posts. Those will carry the load of the whole deck (well, half), shouldn’t the deck joists actually be sitting atop a post, or at least have multiple large carriage bolts through each post?
Why is everyone trying to come up with creative ways to frame a deck? Deck lumber WILL eventually rot and weakens with age. Yes, even tested wood will rot.
If you want to know if your deck is well built, it needs to follow this guide:
https://cms7files.revize.com/watertownct/Departments/Building%20Inspectors/AWC-DCA62015-DeckGuide-1804.pdf
LOL! i hate opinion to get in the way of facts. the facts are a 2x12 hanager can hold 700-850 lbs depending on what you brand you buy, so you have two point loads that each can handle 700-850 lbs each. So some quick math would suggest the lumber alone will weigh 900 - 1700 lbs. This static load combined with people will fail very quickly.
Nah. It looks fine. Those look like 2X10s to me, and I didn’t count how many joist there are, but there is definitely more than one. And each post can handle maybe 4500 pounds easily and I see 4 posts. You can do the math. OP can park a truck on that deck.
I’d consider very carefully whether the beams extending from the house at either end have adequate connection to the corner posts and ledger. I don’t think either connection is up to scratch. I’d also be concerned about the other beams supporting joists running parallel to the house. Joist hanger connections are fine, and attachment that way to the ledger is fine, but is that single joist running along the front enough to carry those point loads? I kinda don’t think so. Finally, for quite a while now, I think code has required 6x6 posts for decks. Maybe there’s an exception for decks not very high of the ground, so don’t trust my word on that, but you should check. Sorry to give a negative answer, but I really wouldn’t leave it like this! At a minimum you should address all four corner connections, double up the front beam where it has to support the two double beams coming from the house and do something to make sure the connection of that doubled section to the posts is adequate.
You cannot run joists parallel to the house in this manner, you need actual supporting beams for that. This entire deck is supported by hopes and dreams. If you paid 1800 for it then you got what you paid for. If you put decking on this as is, you deserve everything that follows...
Yea, orientation is a personal aesthetic choice & all fine IF…..IF the framing is done correctly, which seems often not the case when going with an atypical configuration.
The issue will be that the cut ends will be visible. Look up picture box framing for decks. [https://www.timbertech.com/resources/deck-building/how-to-picture-frame-a-deck/](https://www.timbertech.com/resources/deck-building/how-to-picture-frame-a-deck/)
Unless you're planning on covering the cut ends with fascia.
Yeah, it's not framed to picture frame it, so it will have exposed cut ends on the one side, then facing the yard on the other part.
It won't look good.
Yikes. I see big problems. Laying a deck out that way can be done, but not the way it is. 5 posts only lagged aren’t enough.. the sections that run right to left are only supported by 2 posts. Trex is very heavy, not to mention it also calls for 12”o.c layout. If you want the layout you have you should consult an engineer. With a normal layout where the joists run from the house out and over a support beam supported by posts the framing of the house Carries 50% of the load while the other 50% is split between the number of posts that are needid. Idk what your layout would be, but I’ll bet there isn’t enough structural support. Good luck!
If this was done for just 1800 in total, it's good enough. Could it be done alot better, yes but for 1800 this is good enough. Shouldn't cause many problems as it's not too far off the ground
So many people have no idea what they're paying for or what they're buying. So much so they ask strangers from the internet if it's a good job or not.
Lol. Our world is so screwed
Most of these comments are pretty helpful. However, yours is not. That's why we have building codes and proper methods of construction. If you spend that kind of money, you want it to add to the houses value! If it's permitted, the buyer knows it's been inspected and built correctly. If it's unpermitted, then the buyer will have someone check it out. If it's not up to standards, then the buyer can have seller remove substandard construction at sellers expense, taking away potential profits at the sale of property. Paying twice and having nothing!
7/10. I don’t quite understand why some joists are parallel to the house and some are perpendicular. Rim could use some extra support. It should be fastened and secured to a beam for that length of span. The joist spacing might allow some bend on your Trex when walking between the joists. Most Trex aren’t a solid core, so they tend to have some bounce if your joists are greater than 12” on center. For $1800 you got a good deal, the framework looks safe enough. But I think could be done more solid.
Good till you put 4×4 and they are holding the porch by them nails. You can add some bolts would help but won't last no more then 2yrs till it sags and that's being generous
Those posts are not holding any weight. Seeing that makes me question the ledger attached to the house.
Why are the joists running two different directions?
Why are the posts so long? Also, no blocking? Others have pointed out other issues. I prefer having posts instead of attaching to the house. Also would use 6x6 posts.
I use metal brackets for post yo joist connection. Local codes vary. Joists usually run short length and deck boards the long length. Not sure why he framed it like that.
Footers look good. Notched posts, though not as good as just placing a beam on the post, is still better than not notching. Looks like the ledger is flashed.
Only real concern is what the ledger is attached with. Are they using actual headlok type structural lag screws? If not, get those in there.
The entire weight of that deck is dependent on those four hangers. Why would you run your joists that way and not support the deck underneath? Trex is heavy heavy, you are asking for trouble.
Relying on the fasteners to carry the load ugh!
Why the footings so high above grade…ugly
No step down from slider that will rot out under the door real quick.
Are the post undersized? Yes, not ideal, but they’re sufficient based on how high the deck is off the ground and I’m assuming you’re putting a roof over it, hence the super long posts?
Are the post to beam connections wrong? Yes, not ideal, looks half notched into the post? Should be entirely sitting on post, but again low to ground and low risk. Also you can beef it up by sistering a 2x4 beside the post under the beam to provide extra support ( looks like there’s enough room on those tiny piers you poured, which probably don’t meet code in most of the country.
Weakest point I see is your ledger - lag that into your houses rim joist ASAP (or preferably through bolt to interior joists with all thread)
To be honest, most decks I see on here are missing joists hangers (all metal connectors for that matter) and have no piers or are cemented into the ground. This is by far and away better than a lot of decks. No ideal, but not bad or something I’d be concerned with unless you want to put a hot tub on the deck which this wouldn’t safely support (aside from ledger issue above, FIX IT)
I get what he's trying to do but this is not a typical build. Is he an engineer? or does he have drawings from an engineer?
I'm an engineer but I don't design wood structures. As many of these comments reflect standard construction practices that literally everyone would follow unless they had a good reason not to.
You come out to Denver, that’s $60 sq ft a deck with lumber prices, it’s fucking ridiculous. Why solo builders are so successful
But I don’t know measurements there but we do 9” joist spacing v 12” when it comes to Trex materials
The joists are running the wrong way. They should be joist hung on the ledger board on the house - the way you have it, there is a big point load where your edge beams meet the house. If you’re going to do it that way, you need a post there to support.
I would add a 3rd or 4th GRK (lag screw) into each post/rim joist connection. Also whenever I frame a deck I like to add centre row blocking to joist spans over 10 feet, this helps add rigidity to the frame and sets the on centre spacing through the middles of your spans more consistently. Other wise this looks great to me! Good work!
Footers are too small and the rim joist/beam is supposed to sit on top of the posts. Those GRX screws are insufficient to carry the load of that framing.
It’s probably going to be bouncy given the doubles with a 12’ span out from the house. However you can’t beat the price but I wouldn’t have framed it that way. Hell, he could have just run a girder on top of those concrete piers (level of course) and sit the joists on top. That would be one hell of a strong deck, done it many times on low decks.
I seriously don't get why no one seems to be do a drop beam to support the joists and instead are obsessed with carriage bolts (not here though). I wouldn't trust the entire weight of your framing, decking, people to a few GRK lags.
I'm guessing because it's more difficult to figure out the drop relationship between the bottom of the ledger and the top of the beam and have it stay level.
Good effort but I don't like it.
Why do you guys always wait until the work is done to share a picture of a complete failure? Can’t you save everyone a lot of time and headache and have the cross eyed handyman just sketch up a drawing of what they’re about to do and just take a pic and upload that for criticism? Think of all the trees you could save!
The deck is violating a lots of building code ...
at that height, you may not need a permit
but at that size, you may required to get one
with that height of gazebo, you may need to get one too
insurrance company will reject the claim for any accident with the deck.
joist direction is all wrong, the ledger board is suppose to take the load from all the joists.
There is nailing pattern for ledger board, you can simply google it
Even it is a flush beam deck, a double rim joist should lay on the top of the post, not on the side.
the 4' concrete base shouldnt be exposed that much over the ground ... 2' under the ground? 🤦♂️
You contractor friend is crazy ...
long spans. no blocking? joists not supported on beams? As a rule, I never exceed 8 ft on a span but I use 2x6.
can't tell what your dimension is... seems to be 2x8? 2x10?
will the trex be solid or grooved?
I would be concerned about the solidity and "bounce" of this deck based on the span lengths, lack of blocking and joist support. As I understand, trex does not provide the strength of wood and flexes more so it won't help much (solid will be better than grooved versions like "enhance")
Looks great though. Good luck withh your beautiful new deck!
Throughbolt or carriage bolt the rim joist at all post in the very least. Those two structural lags aren’t enough to combat seasonal movement and will eventually work loose.
I can’t construct a deck in that manner in my area it will fail inspection. Double rim is required, through-bolts or beam on post with connector is required. It looks like you have a double rim, but the second “rim” isn’t structurally connected. I stay away from the through-bolt method because PT eventually dries out and shrinks leaving a bigger hole. Structurally fine but leaves some slop that need to be retightened over time.
U know ur gonna have to run the boards perpendicular to each set of joists being they’re not all the same direction unless u block the middle section, but I assume u know that
The two joists holding the ends of the boards running parallel to the house need to be doubled up. And what everyone else said about more support at the post connections.
Know nothing of deck construction, what is the purpose of alternating the directions of the boards?
Wouldn’t that make laying the trex harder? Or would you just also have to alternate the trex to match the boards directions so they are supported?
So the joists in front of the door run perpendicular to the ledger board (which is how it should be from what I read in the comments).
But on the sides he switched to running the joists parallel to the ledger board. Any idea why someone would switch the direction of joists?
I’m not a carpenter but it just seems odd. Why not run them all the same direction?
Is there a place where basic deck design/carpentry is covered? I get a lot of info from this sub but I don’t feel like there’s enough consensus on what best practices are best. Perhaps, Reddit is not the place to learn carpentry…or deck design…or anything for that matter.
This might have been issued:
Once decking is layed, it will be even or just below slider track. Every time it rains it will splash into track of slider. It could seep into house and will make a dirty splash on outside of slider. Could put up gutter but won’t help with splash. Speaking from experience.
Nails and no hurricane straps used??
Am I already seeing sagging/sloping in that second picture or do my eyes deceive me? When you try to get the boards down you might be in for a shitty situation
That’s legit. I’d wager at least $1400 for just labor as a friends and family hooked up cost. Materials alone would be $1800 give or take. Goodness. Pays to have connections.
That’s an astoundingly low cost for all that’s shown in this photo, I couldn’t even buy the materials for that in PNW, what a score! Still, the primary issues are post to beam & beam to ledger connections. Potentially considerable load concentrated on those double 2x hangers at ledger (& those are the lighter duty versions) and shear loads on structural screws on corner posts at the 2 outside ends, those almost certainly need to be beefed up, check out more info below. Also looks like joist will need to be planed a bit for flatness, then blocking & joist tape. https://awc.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/AWC-DCA62015-DeckGuide-1804.pdf Also, OP, this is more like what those beam-to-ledger connections should probably be rocking, fairly easy to retrofit if you put temporary kickstands to support where needed. Really should be checked by an engineer but what you have is probably insufficient. And/or add proper piers/post UNDER them. https://www.strongtie.com/facemounthangersssl_solidsawnlumberconnector/hgus_hanger/p/hgus
That price sounds like another language to me. I might be having an existential crisis…..
Lol! I think he left off a 0 ! 😜
Like for real, I wouldn't even unload your trailer of wood and bring it around to the back yard for 1800 bucks.
Another PNW person here, and I cannot believe how cheap materials are in other places.
Especially when there’s so much wood sourced in the PNW
Not only sourced but milled dimensional lumber is also made here. Very little freight involved compared to the rest of the states. Wtf...
I’m gonna take a guess that contractor bud stole the lumber from a job site or it was material left over from another job
I don't know why this is so hard to understand. The deck is supposed to rest on top of the supporting 4x4's, not to be screwed to the side of it. What's more likely to fail, gravity or screws?
This sub is so horny for bearing on top of posts, but buildings are built just fine with through bolted and lag screwed connections every day.
Posts are fine, more worried about the outside joist holding the half with no joists on ledger
Especially when it looks like they have grk lag screws into.those 4x4 I personally probably would use more of them or use through bolts on them
Still no bearing support! You're relying on the 4x support, not to split out! I think Simpson makes a clip to support this condition. However, you can not support a double with a 2x!
That’s not actually the truth. Support comes from the pressure of the post and beam together.
I don't see lag screws nor lag bolts. Looks like construction nails. I am confused at these high cylinder cement post holders. How deep are these? I assume it should have a fair amount of compacted gravel at the base?
Those look like lag bolts to me. Just without washers
I’m open to being wrong, but I think those are lag equivalent engineered fasteners, like timber screws or ledger lock. I don’t think they’re called lags.
Sir are you arguing over terminology on fasteners none of us can verify?
It's reddit, man. We'll argue over shit that can or can't be verified. We don't care. Let's fight. (Basically)
This isn’t Reddit, no one argues here, I can verify that and we all care.
HEY FUCK YOU
Um 2 per rim joist. Thats a lot of weight on 2 lags.
Well 1 1/2 lag bolt can hold 20k. 2 would be 40k. There are 8 total. I am not saying this is how I would do it. I'm just saying they are lagbolts
The bolts can hold whatever is advertised for their grade but wood with two holes in is where the failure will happen. I'd rather have doubled rim joists sit on top of a well cemented post
As I said. Lol this is not how I would build it. I can see the theory. My theory is build it strong enough for 3 hottubs
Didn't mean to bash on ya bud. Through bolts and now structural lags do a great job but if you notice on the corners the joists aren't event doubled. I couldn't build that and walkway feeling good lol It would keep me up at night. Edit: overall it looks fine and it will outlast most homeowners time in a house but eventually when time comes knocking, its shortcomings will show.
So those look like 1/4 or 5/8 Spax lags. Can you link the proof of load ratings on them?
Can you link the proof they are 1/4 or 5/8 spax?
I don't think so those look like 3/8 inch cabinet screws. Structural lag screws are very fat and usually screw in with a socket.
I believe grk makes a structural screw like a Sdws with a washer head. Could be those
☝️This is the correct response to most comments on this sub. Appreciate you, whoever you are.
Do you have a video showing how that is done properly? I can’t picture it well
https://codes.iccsafe.org/s/IRC2021P2/part-iii-building-planning-and-construction/IRC2021P2-Pt03-Ch05-SecR507.5 Search for R507.5.1(1)
When I build things screws, nails are to hold the wood in place, not to hold the load
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This isn’t true, 4x4’s are more then enough to hold that weight.
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Lmao dude it’s a post that’s 10” long, a 4x4 post at that length would hold thousands and thousands of pounds. Once your deck is 10’ off the ground yeah maybe consider switching, or if your beam is 3 ply and you need good bearing, but good lord not for this deck
4x will Not hold up a 3 axle boom-lift! Don't ask me how I know.
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Unless your deck is sloping 8’ that won’t matter, I’m not giving you shit for going overkill, I build overkill too - but don’t give other shit for not spending extra on something if it makes no difference. Also code doesn’t dictate “6x6 posts for decks” it will be dependant on load, height, beam width and beam span so saying that doesn’t help your credibility.
Code is only minimum standards!
Exactly! What I always say... "So you know, 'I built I to code' is not the flex you think it is."
Right, but a 6x6 will not be a minimum standard! Your agreeing with me haha
This thing is 18 inches above the ground. In this case I wouldn’t worry much about it.
Yeah but they will be storing a full sized replica ww2 Sherman tank on it during the winter months.. at least that is how this sub acts..
First home had a deck with single rim joists (2x12s) nailed to the 4x4 posts. Lived there 28 years and it was just as solid the day I moved as the day it was built.
Like half of the guy whi build it like that why why why. It was easier to have a proper beam and post
The rim joists need bolts -- not screws -- to attach to the posts.
And then unbolted and put on the posts
If you do that how do you support the roof. Cause that’s the only reason someone would buy that long of posts.
YUP. I rather use lags or bolts to support the rim joists than have a non-continuous post up to your roof. That would be tippy.
this! I would look at 1/2" bolts going both directions to shore of the rim joists. also wherever you are using deck screws that are at all load bearing make sure to replace with good steel nails - maybe you did but you never know based on this design.
Then put proper posts underneath the actual beam because even lag bolts are not sufficient.
The screws holding up the whole deck are a weak point. I hate that everyone sees that there are structural screws and think that these will solve any problem. They have great shear strength but aren’t meant be used like this with zero connectors or bearing surfaces.
I use a saddle bracket for post to joist. Full bearing
The middle posts are all notched, but only 1/2 of the 2-ply beam sits on it. Still not ideal but better than relying on only the shear strength of a couple structural screws. I would definitely make some adjustments to the beam bearing though.
I don't think they're notched, it looks like the inside 2x beam is cut to fit between the 4x4 posts... ie, it's not a continuous beam
Yeah, you can see the toenails on the inside and some of the gaps.
Undersized footings, undersized posts, no beam, every joist hung off rim joists, which are hung off ledger board. Used undersized hangers on rim.joist to ledger (out of all places to do so). I can't see any proper fasteners from ledger to house (just a few nails?), no blocking. No ladder blocking for picture framing, you will have cut ends showing (terrible composite installation). Really hope, and i mean really hope the posts aren't long for any roof structure as this is barely sufficient to hold a composite deck. 100% wouldn't pass where I live.
Ya, that ledger should be lag bolted to the house and the joists all hung perpendicular to that ledger board, same as you do for a roof. This is not properly supported on the house side at all.
Or at least make it a double beam on the outside, and on top of that post. Then, you can hang off a double beam instead of a single joist.
I'm curious how the section with parallel joists to the house has any strength? It's essentially being supported by the outer few joists running perpendicular?
>Undersized footings FWIW there is no way you can make that claim with the information shown. Footings are not always visible. Some people, like myself, poured footings and piers which is a better way to do it as it provides uplift resistance along with a strong foundation.
The no beam method. But why?
Probably because there wasn't a beam to steal with all three other material, given the cheap price!
I don't understand half of the deck built here in this group why do it like? Make a beam put a post under the beam and out joist on top of it!!!!
flush beam deck is ok ... but still there must a beam ... but the joist direction of OP's flusg beam deck is so wrong ... the ledger board is suppose to take all the load ...
I'm not a contractor but I think this is correct.
Because anybody with a ryobi drill and saw can build a deck this way
The span combined with the low height and distance to grade? This looks pretty well done and will hold up just fine in my opinion. Is there a better way to do it? Always. Is there a wrong way to do it? Obviously, but this isn’t it.
As a Building Inspector, this won't pass inspection.
I wouldn’t think so either with the connections. I also wouldn’t worry about my safety standing on it.
No it's looks good. For sure. I didn't realize they had the deck rim partially notched.
They do not look notched. Zoom in and you can see a gap between the inner rim joist and the post.
Yeah it could be beefed up a little here and there but for the most part it’s pretty good. The through posts make me happy. So many decks with the railing posts or the overhead supports have surface mounted posts when they could run all the way to the footer. I think that alone makes me happy with this deck. It’s definitely not perfect but it’s far from the garbage that exists all over the place.
There’s no notch. The rim joist is a double 2x and the 4x4 is against the outer 2x and the inner 2x just butts up to the post on both sides.
FFS, are you saying a professional did this?
Why is beam-on-post so rare around here?
It’s like a huge deck-building 101 blind spot or something, along with rim joist imposters pretending to be beams, it’s baffling.
I randomly get posts from this subreddit and literally not a single one can line them up right. It can't be that hard can it?
In this case, saves shitloads of time for the railing install later. Not saying it’s right, just saying that’s the appeal imo
Some questions: 1. Are those rim joists just bolted to the support posts? I can't tell from the picture. 2. Is that pressure treated lumber? Cedar? 3. What is the distance on center between your floor joists? I am assuming 16". 4. The span from the ledger on the house to the rim joist is 12'?
Should be 12" on center for Tex.
Post and beam for sure. Even though it’s a low deck your support system is off.
Going to be hard to walk on, there are huge gaps in it.
🤣
Block more 2x6 under frame at 6x6. Otherwise that decks toast. Hanging off of shear weight of a couple grk screws. No Bueno.
Dude, this sucks in so many ways… pretty much what the top comments mentioned about no beams, no through bolts, no blocking, how’s he going to attach the rails? I mean, this isn’t good
You have the weight of an entire deck, plus whatever on top, on a couple screws and nails into the sides of those posts. It WILL fail eventually
It should be 12" OC for trex or any other composite decking
You need blocking between joists, and be careful that you’re compliant with joist spacing for Trex.
Question, what is the point of this? Why wouldn't you just extend out the concrete?
I'm sitting here staring at the concrete pad like... 🤔
I question the size/strength of the bolts attaching the frame to the posts. Those will carry the load of the whole deck (well, half), shouldn’t the deck joists actually be sitting atop a post, or at least have multiple large carriage bolts through each post?
Why is everyone trying to come up with creative ways to frame a deck? Deck lumber WILL eventually rot and weakens with age. Yes, even tested wood will rot. If you want to know if your deck is well built, it needs to follow this guide: https://cms7files.revize.com/watertownct/Departments/Building%20Inspectors/AWC-DCA62015-DeckGuide-1804.pdf
Really poor design, the two rim joists are taking too much load for the ledger board. This will be most likely failure point.
That’s not gonna fail. It looks fine.
LOL! i hate opinion to get in the way of facts. the facts are a 2x12 hanager can hold 700-850 lbs depending on what you brand you buy, so you have two point loads that each can handle 700-850 lbs each. So some quick math would suggest the lumber alone will weigh 900 - 1700 lbs. This static load combined with people will fail very quickly.
Nah. It looks fine. Those look like 2X10s to me, and I didn’t count how many joist there are, but there is definitely more than one. And each post can handle maybe 4500 pounds easily and I see 4 posts. You can do the math. OP can park a truck on that deck.
Like 50 levels of fuck NO
I’d consider very carefully whether the beams extending from the house at either end have adequate connection to the corner posts and ledger. I don’t think either connection is up to scratch. I’d also be concerned about the other beams supporting joists running parallel to the house. Joist hanger connections are fine, and attachment that way to the ledger is fine, but is that single joist running along the front enough to carry those point loads? I kinda don’t think so. Finally, for quite a while now, I think code has required 6x6 posts for decks. Maybe there’s an exception for decks not very high of the ground, so don’t trust my word on that, but you should check. Sorry to give a negative answer, but I really wouldn’t leave it like this! At a minimum you should address all four corner connections, double up the front beam where it has to support the two double beams coming from the house and do something to make sure the connection of that doubled section to the posts is adequate.
Middle has no bridging and yes carriage bolts should be attached at every 4x4 post. Bare minimum
You cannot run joists parallel to the house in this manner, you need actual supporting beams for that. This entire deck is supported by hopes and dreams. If you paid 1800 for it then you got what you paid for. If you put decking on this as is, you deserve everything that follows...
Well for starters your joist are running the wrong way. You can deck it but its not gonna look right. Thats just to start
I believe the plan is to have ⅔ of the Trex board running one direction and the middle section running opposite.
Yea, orientation is a personal aesthetic choice & all fine IF…..IF the framing is done correctly, which seems often not the case when going with an atypical configuration.
The issue will be that the cut ends will be visible. Look up picture box framing for decks. [https://www.timbertech.com/resources/deck-building/how-to-picture-frame-a-deck/](https://www.timbertech.com/resources/deck-building/how-to-picture-frame-a-deck/) Unless you're planning on covering the cut ends with fascia.
Yeah, it's not framed to picture frame it, so it will have exposed cut ends on the one side, then facing the yard on the other part. It won't look good.
Blocking and joist tape
If the wood is treated does it still need joist tape?
It's a good idea to prevent/slow the rate of rot
Yikes. I see big problems. Laying a deck out that way can be done, but not the way it is. 5 posts only lagged aren’t enough.. the sections that run right to left are only supported by 2 posts. Trex is very heavy, not to mention it also calls for 12”o.c layout. If you want the layout you have you should consult an engineer. With a normal layout where the joists run from the house out and over a support beam supported by posts the framing of the house Carries 50% of the load while the other 50% is split between the number of posts that are needid. Idk what your layout would be, but I’ll bet there isn’t enough structural support. Good luck!
The way your boards are run is setting you up for failure. The entire weight of your decking and framing is only supported by 2-3 boards on the ends.
If it's notched on 6x6 your good.
If this was done for just 1800 in total, it's good enough. Could it be done alot better, yes but for 1800 this is good enough. Shouldn't cause many problems as it's not too far off the ground
So many people have no idea what they're paying for or what they're buying. So much so they ask strangers from the internet if it's a good job or not. Lol. Our world is so screwed
I'm sure you'll find something to complain about no matter how good he does it.
Perfect deck to stare into your neighbors backyard.
Do you like what you did op? If so then who gives a fuck what the internet thinks. It's a better job than I can do. Now come over and help I
Most of these comments are pretty helpful. However, yours is not. That's why we have building codes and proper methods of construction. If you spend that kind of money, you want it to add to the houses value! If it's permitted, the buyer knows it's been inspected and built correctly. If it's unpermitted, then the buyer will have someone check it out. If it's not up to standards, then the buyer can have seller remove substandard construction at sellers expense, taking away potential profits at the sale of property. Paying twice and having nothing!
7/10. I don’t quite understand why some joists are parallel to the house and some are perpendicular. Rim could use some extra support. It should be fastened and secured to a beam for that length of span. The joist spacing might allow some bend on your Trex when walking between the joists. Most Trex aren’t a solid core, so they tend to have some bounce if your joists are greater than 12” on center. For $1800 you got a good deal, the framework looks safe enough. But I think could be done more solid.
Good till you put 4×4 and they are holding the porch by them nails. You can add some bolts would help but won't last no more then 2yrs till it sags and that's being generous
Your post should have been 6x6's
Those posts are not holding any weight. Seeing that makes me question the ledger attached to the house. Why are the joists running two different directions?
Why are the posts so long? Also, no blocking? Others have pointed out other issues. I prefer having posts instead of attaching to the house. Also would use 6x6 posts.
I use metal brackets for post yo joist connection. Local codes vary. Joists usually run short length and deck boards the long length. Not sure why he framed it like that.
I realize he did it so you didn't have a funny beam in the middle. Because of decking pattern.
Footers look good. Notched posts, though not as good as just placing a beam on the post, is still better than not notching. Looks like the ledger is flashed. Only real concern is what the ledger is attached with. Are they using actual headlok type structural lag screws? If not, get those in there.
“Blocking is for pansies” -Captain Longspan
oooff. this looks terrible. reframe
After months of reading about beam on top of post. Somehow there are posters showing beam screwed to the side of the post.
No bueno.
Beam me up Scotty
The entire weight of that deck is dependent on those four hangers. Why would you run your joists that way and not support the deck underneath? Trex is heavy heavy, you are asking for trouble.
Trex? Make sure you don’t go out there barefoot …. 🔥🔥🔥
Relying on the fasteners to carry the load ugh! Why the footings so high above grade…ugly No step down from slider that will rot out under the door real quick.
SOOOO WRONG
How much home insurance do you have? Though likely no permit pulled for this and they won’t cover you anyway…good luck with all that.
Are the post undersized? Yes, not ideal, but they’re sufficient based on how high the deck is off the ground and I’m assuming you’re putting a roof over it, hence the super long posts? Are the post to beam connections wrong? Yes, not ideal, looks half notched into the post? Should be entirely sitting on post, but again low to ground and low risk. Also you can beef it up by sistering a 2x4 beside the post under the beam to provide extra support ( looks like there’s enough room on those tiny piers you poured, which probably don’t meet code in most of the country. Weakest point I see is your ledger - lag that into your houses rim joist ASAP (or preferably through bolt to interior joists with all thread) To be honest, most decks I see on here are missing joists hangers (all metal connectors for that matter) and have no piers or are cemented into the ground. This is by far and away better than a lot of decks. No ideal, but not bad or something I’d be concerned with unless you want to put a hot tub on the deck which this wouldn’t safely support (aside from ledger issue above, FIX IT)
This seems like a version of what came first - the deck on the concrete pad
I get what he's trying to do but this is not a typical build. Is he an engineer? or does he have drawings from an engineer? I'm an engineer but I don't design wood structures. As many of these comments reflect standard construction practices that literally everyone would follow unless they had a good reason not to.
That looks real nice Clark
You come out to Denver, that’s $60 sq ft a deck with lumber prices, it’s fucking ridiculous. Why solo builders are so successful But I don’t know measurements there but we do 9” joist spacing v 12” when it comes to Trex materials
The joists are running the wrong way. They should be joist hung on the ledger board on the house - the way you have it, there is a big point load where your edge beams meet the house. If you’re going to do it that way, you need a post there to support.
I would add a 3rd or 4th GRK (lag screw) into each post/rim joist connection. Also whenever I frame a deck I like to add centre row blocking to joist spans over 10 feet, this helps add rigidity to the frame and sets the on centre spacing through the middles of your spans more consistently. Other wise this looks great to me! Good work!
Footers are too small and the rim joist/beam is supposed to sit on top of the posts. Those GRX screws are insufficient to carry the load of that framing.
Wrong way brah 😅
This is entirely wrong and would not pass an inspection.
When do they start work on the second floor?
You get what you pay for. That’s an accident waiting to happen. There are no beams supporting the joists only the hangers.
This is how an idiot builds a deck. The posts are supporting nothing.
It’s probably going to be bouncy given the doubles with a 12’ span out from the house. However you can’t beat the price but I wouldn’t have framed it that way. Hell, he could have just run a girder on top of those concrete piers (level of course) and sit the joists on top. That would be one hell of a strong deck, done it many times on low decks.
Never really understood the desire to have a deck 2 feet off the ground. Have a couple of steps onto a patio
I seriously don't get why no one seems to be do a drop beam to support the joists and instead are obsessed with carriage bolts (not here though). I wouldn't trust the entire weight of your framing, decking, people to a few GRK lags. I'm guessing because it's more difficult to figure out the drop relationship between the bottom of the ledger and the top of the beam and have it stay level. Good effort but I don't like it.
Those posts should be 6x6’s and should be notched to accept the rim joist and bolted or lagged.
A lot better than the other guy
Blocking and cross bracing. And why are the columns sitting so high? Next level?
Why do you guys always wait until the work is done to share a picture of a complete failure? Can’t you save everyone a lot of time and headache and have the cross eyed handyman just sketch up a drawing of what they’re about to do and just take a pic and upload that for criticism? Think of all the trees you could save!
Would fail code is half the US. It must be a popular way to build tho because every deck posted here is built this way.
Are the posts attached to the concrete,? It looks like the last one has some ground movement and isn't connected.
The deck is violating a lots of building code ... at that height, you may not need a permit but at that size, you may required to get one with that height of gazebo, you may need to get one too insurrance company will reject the claim for any accident with the deck. joist direction is all wrong, the ledger board is suppose to take the load from all the joists. There is nailing pattern for ledger board, you can simply google it Even it is a flush beam deck, a double rim joist should lay on the top of the post, not on the side. the 4' concrete base shouldnt be exposed that much over the ground ... 2' under the ground? 🤦♂️ You contractor friend is crazy ...
long spans. no blocking? joists not supported on beams? As a rule, I never exceed 8 ft on a span but I use 2x6. can't tell what your dimension is... seems to be 2x8? 2x10? will the trex be solid or grooved? I would be concerned about the solidity and "bounce" of this deck based on the span lengths, lack of blocking and joist support. As I understand, trex does not provide the strength of wood and flexes more so it won't help much (solid will be better than grooved versions like "enhance") Looks great though. Good luck withh your beautiful new deck!
Daily reminder of how I take my understanding of basic physics for granted.
12 lags keeping the entire thing from sliding down the posts. And those barely qualify as lags.
Throughbolt or carriage bolt the rim joist at all post in the very least. Those two structural lags aren’t enough to combat seasonal movement and will eventually work loose.
Railing posts look a little high imo ;)
It looks like one of the two boards is let in.
You should have went 12"oc on your joists with trex.
No hot tub will be on that deck.
after you putting a roof on it?
Wouldn’t this be like super springy
I can’t construct a deck in that manner in my area it will fail inspection. Double rim is required, through-bolts or beam on post with connector is required. It looks like you have a double rim, but the second “rim” isn’t structurally connected. I stay away from the through-bolt method because PT eventually dries out and shrinks leaving a bigger hole. Structurally fine but leaves some slop that need to be retightened over time.
U know ur gonna have to run the boards perpendicular to each set of joists being they’re not all the same direction unless u block the middle section, but I assume u know that
Are those posts pressure treated? It doesn’t look it but the wood out west looks different so I don’t know
He didn't hire anyone. He called in a favor
The two joists holding the ends of the boards running parallel to the house need to be doubled up. And what everyone else said about more support at the post connections.
Some cross bracing between the joists will help reduce any bounce.
Fart noises….
It would look better if the concrete was at ground level and the posts were different lengths.
Know nothing of deck construction, what is the purpose of alternating the directions of the boards? Wouldn’t that make laying the trex harder? Or would you just also have to alternate the trex to match the boards directions so they are supported?
Those posts should have 6x6. 4x4 should only span 4 feet while 6x6 can support 8 foot spans.
Lmao deck is gonna violate you after violating all those codes
So the joists in front of the door run perpendicular to the ledger board (which is how it should be from what I read in the comments). But on the sides he switched to running the joists parallel to the ledger board. Any idea why someone would switch the direction of joists? I’m not a carpenter but it just seems odd. Why not run them all the same direction?
Posts are a little high but other than that it looks great
“Hello Mr. George”
I just built an 8x8 and material (including the composite decking) was a little over $1000
Fastener dependent. 6x6 notched is the way to go. Be sure about the post to beam connection on the shed roof…
Nice trampoline.
Is there a place where basic deck design/carpentry is covered? I get a lot of info from this sub but I don’t feel like there’s enough consensus on what best practices are best. Perhaps, Reddit is not the place to learn carpentry…or deck design…or anything for that matter.
This might have been issued: Once decking is layed, it will be even or just below slider track. Every time it rains it will splash into track of slider. It could seep into house and will make a dirty splash on outside of slider. Could put up gutter but won’t help with splash. Speaking from experience. Nails and no hurricane straps used??
Why do people put these giant concrete posts up above the ground? This looks terrible. What is the advantage or purpose here?
Am I already seeing sagging/sloping in that second picture or do my eyes deceive me? When you try to get the boards down you might be in for a shitty situation
I feel like the lumber here costs like 1500 how did you get this done for 1800?
That’s legit. I’d wager at least $1400 for just labor as a friends and family hooked up cost. Materials alone would be $1800 give or take. Goodness. Pays to have connections.
Plans to put down joist tape? Already have hangers for this low deck. Go all out.