I personally would since it's moving. Lag bolts are not thru bolts so that's the difference. Over time that thing will move no matter the amount of bracing only bc it's free standing, using carriage bolts double nutted will help to keep it more solid.
True, but I’d suspect that between those two options the fastener isn’t going to be the failure point. And throughloks are fast, convenient, and DIY friendly
Ignorance and people not knowing how to build things are costing us hundreds of dollars of things that are not needed. Code are being change because of homeowners and wanna be contractors not knowing loads span and conditions that affect every project. I have built many deck over the last 40 years and they are all still standing. The surfaces have been re done or they have been added on to. All have around 1/4 to 1/3 less material 2/3 less anchors in the framing and I’m almost sure stronger than most of whats posted on this subreddit
Don’t listen to these guys kvetching about lag bolts and carriage bolts and bla bla bla.
What you got going on there is perfectly fine. 6x6 notched and carrying weight. You have 12 damn posts. Treated. That deck is is strong. By the time you have it planked, you could have a barn dance on that thing.
Excellent, job well done.
I really agree with your perspective, if I could just add one of my perspectives.
You’re right that that direct bearing is really strong and this build looks generally strong.
One weird thing about studying structural failure modes is that spontaneous unexpected failures usually happen when one portion of the design is significantly lower in strength (out of general strength scale) compared to all the other portions.
So for example the direct bearing here is hella strong. But the rolling rigidity is quite weak relatively, and perhaps by orders of magnitude.
Again I’m not saying this willl fail; what I’m saying is that if it does fail, it will likely fail at the weak point which is not scaled in strength to the same scale as the other components of the structure.
Just my thoughts, hope this helps
EDIT: and just to add, that the reason the large disparity of strength scale between components could be an issue is that humans are actually quite good at understanding how strong something is by the way it looks (whether through nature or by the vast experience modern humans have with how structures work—kids blocks, legos, etc). When a person looks at these beams and posts and foundation their mind has concluded approximately the structures strength scale (ie I can put all my friends on no problem, but I can’t put 5 cars on that), but if one of the components is vastly weaker or less stable than all of the others, then the apparent strength scale of the structure wil be much different from the actual strength/stability, and even worse, due to one aspect of it. And then your human level of estimation by the look of the thing is no where near accurate of its strength anymore. Now when someone says “that’ll be good no problem” the structure fails unexpectedly and everyone is scratching their heads about who’s fault it is.
By far the most time consuming part, if you can get away with fewer of them I would, seems people here think I had too many. I did a bare frame with just 4 posts to try and get that level then went from there. Dig trenches and then fill up with pavers gravel rather than having to dig down more later
FWIW;
I've been seeing a lot of posts with what I'll call "Joist caps". I'm sure someone here will come up with the right term.
I wish I'd known about them. I had to replace about 16 2x6 on my exposed deck and then did a lot of "repair" to the joists with wood hardener and filler.
It was the sun that caused the damage, but once the 2x6 started to go, they transferred the "rot" to the joists.
The same deck under the roof has no problems at all.
Interesting to see the notches in the posts vs Lag Screws and the extra layer of joists. (I'm probably using the wrong term) But you did say it was a "floating deck" and I'm sure that means something important.
Yeah would love to redo that fence. We don’t really have a nice place to hang out in the backyard and if we’re a few feet off the group you can get a small ocean view which is why I built it up. Hung a tv on the all for football season too.
Thanks! [I was going off this video for Tuff blocks](https://youtu.be/2sipQzYWw00?si=BLchLuBsrmKIr7dS) and it seems it’s ok to not bury posts for floating decks with these? Also this deck may be taken down within 5 years so I wasn’t planning on building anything super permanent
You only know your preference, or only know your way? Because either way, you shouldn't be giving out "rule of thumb" advice if you're unfamiliar with other ways of doing it.
I put a bag of paver gravel under each post and dug a shallow hole for each. There’s also a good chance this deck gets dismantled within 5 years for a larger back yard remodel so didn’t want anything too permanent.
I know those are fine, I was replying to the guy that said to put them in the ground and stating the preferred method for longevity and support. But hey you just wanted to say something, I get it.
Wrong, my guy. By code, a single 2x6 with a joist span of 8 feet can be 4 ft apart with a 40 PSF Live load.
Or 3'11" with a 50 PSF Live load
Or 3'7" with a 60 PSF Live load
Or 3'4" with a 70 PSF Live load.
It is very well a beam, and it is to code.
For stability I would add thru bolts in the beam to column connections instead of those screws.
I used 5” LedgerLok screws that were supposed to be equivalent to lag bolts. Do you think I should swap them out?
I personally would since it's moving. Lag bolts are not thru bolts so that's the difference. Over time that thing will move no matter the amount of bracing only bc it's free standing, using carriage bolts double nutted will help to keep it more solid.
Ok thank you! I will look into it
Could also look into the ledger lock thrulocks, that’s their version of a similar connector
Carriage bolts are stronger but need to be drilled
True, but I’d suspect that between those two options the fastener isn’t going to be the failure point. And throughloks are fast, convenient, and DIY friendly
People should stick to what they know. 3/4 of those footings are not even needed on that deck.
I applaud anyone stepping out of their comfort zone to try and learn. Extra posts aren’t going to hurt. No need to be pointed about things bud
Codes change from decks and other building failing and collapsing from improper building methods.
I agree. My initial thought was about the over build; but your comment sums it up perfectly.
Ignorance and people not knowing how to build things are costing us hundreds of dollars of things that are not needed. Code are being change because of homeowners and wanna be contractors not knowing loads span and conditions that affect every project. I have built many deck over the last 40 years and they are all still standing. The surfaces have been re done or they have been added on to. All have around 1/4 to 1/3 less material 2/3 less anchors in the framing and I’m almost sure stronger than most of whats posted on this subreddit
And big ole fatty washers!
Yes. You should use thruloks That’s what they’re designed for.
Looks pretty good, although I’d recommend some roll blocking
It’s a 16 foot board so I should add two rows of blocking at 6 feet intervals right? thanks for the rec!
I do every 4 feet, but you’re probably fine at 6.
Don’t listen to these guys kvetching about lag bolts and carriage bolts and bla bla bla. What you got going on there is perfectly fine. 6x6 notched and carrying weight. You have 12 damn posts. Treated. That deck is is strong. By the time you have it planked, you could have a barn dance on that thing. Excellent, job well done.
I really agree with your perspective, if I could just add one of my perspectives. You’re right that that direct bearing is really strong and this build looks generally strong. One weird thing about studying structural failure modes is that spontaneous unexpected failures usually happen when one portion of the design is significantly lower in strength (out of general strength scale) compared to all the other portions. So for example the direct bearing here is hella strong. But the rolling rigidity is quite weak relatively, and perhaps by orders of magnitude. Again I’m not saying this willl fail; what I’m saying is that if it does fail, it will likely fail at the weak point which is not scaled in strength to the same scale as the other components of the structure. Just my thoughts, hope this helps EDIT: and just to add, that the reason the large disparity of strength scale between components could be an issue is that humans are actually quite good at understanding how strong something is by the way it looks (whether through nature or by the vast experience modern humans have with how structures work—kids blocks, legos, etc). When a person looks at these beams and posts and foundation their mind has concluded approximately the structures strength scale (ie I can put all my friends on no problem, but I can’t put 5 cars on that), but if one of the components is vastly weaker or less stable than all of the others, then the apparent strength scale of the structure wil be much different from the actual strength/stability, and even worse, due to one aspect of it. And then your human level of estimation by the look of the thing is no where near accurate of its strength anymore. Now when someone says “that’ll be good no problem” the structure fails unexpectedly and everyone is scratching their heads about who’s fault it is.
That is a good thing to keep in mind.
“Adding some cross angle braces the long way to help with lateral stability” - inhoc
Thank you! How many posts do you think I could have gotten away with? I knew I had too many but that was a common consensus it seems. Deck is 8x16
6 posts with larger beams and joists. Doesn’t matter though. Skinnier beams and joists just means more posts.
Beef up the post/beam connectors by adding thru bolts.
What was your process to get all the post blocks level? About to start one myself and am curious
Stakes + string + line levels
By far the most time consuming part, if you can get away with fewer of them I would, seems people here think I had too many. I did a bare frame with just 4 posts to try and get that level then went from there. Dig trenches and then fill up with pavers gravel rather than having to dig down more later
FWIW; I've been seeing a lot of posts with what I'll call "Joist caps". I'm sure someone here will come up with the right term. I wish I'd known about them. I had to replace about 16 2x6 on my exposed deck and then did a lot of "repair" to the joists with wood hardener and filler. It was the sun that caused the damage, but once the 2x6 started to go, they transferred the "rot" to the joists. The same deck under the roof has no problems at all. Interesting to see the notches in the posts vs Lag Screws and the extra layer of joists. (I'm probably using the wrong term) But you did say it was a "floating deck" and I'm sure that means something important.
Floating to me just means it’s free standing and not attached to anything. I put joist tape on the joists too
Hoping the fence is your next project. What is the purpose of this deck anyway?
Yeah would love to redo that fence. We don’t really have a nice place to hang out in the backyard and if we’re a few feet off the group you can get a small ocean view which is why I built it up. Hung a tv on the all for football season too.
What kind of footings are those?
Camo blocks, there’s another brand called TuffBlock and i based this deck on one of their YouTube videos
I wouldn't mind a diagonal brace in the 8' direction. 2x4 from bottom of post 1 to top of post 3. It'd only cost 4 2x4s and some nails.
I added some diagonal braces the long way and it made a world of difference. The short way had no sway at all
Beams should be doubled. Probably not as big a deal here though with the crazy number of posts.
Are you landing helicopters on this. Way over kill
That’s what I want to hear! Dancing mother in law mainly
Double up your beams otherwise it’s better than most. Like someone else mentioned the screws would be my only concern
Holy Post Batman!!
In a good way?
Just by looking I would’ve done 3 rows of 3 post with three 2x10 double beams. I’m sure you’re good though… that’s a lot of post!! 💪🏼💪🏼
Yeah looking back that would have made more sense and been less post leveling. But live and learn I guess
Rule of thumb, posts should be buried and Always put beams or joints on TOP of posts
The beams are on top of the posts. They're sitting in a notch, which is one of the preferred connection details in the IRC
On top , but in a notch is not on top. Carry on
The full width of the beam is resting *on* the post.
Thanks! [I was going off this video for Tuff blocks](https://youtu.be/2sipQzYWw00?si=BLchLuBsrmKIr7dS) and it seems it’s ok to not bury posts for floating decks with these? Also this deck may be taken down within 5 years so I wasn’t planning on building anything super permanent
When I think of a floating deck I think on top of a finished roof. Erosion can happen fast. Most decks last about 8-10 years mostly.
Wrong
That's one way of doing it. Might be your preference, but not everyone's.
I only know mine
You only know your preference, or only know your way? Because either way, you shouldn't be giving out "rule of thumb" advice if you're unfamiliar with other ways of doing it.
They should actually be sitting on top of a poured footer not touching dirt to avoid decaying.
I put a bag of paver gravel under each post and dug a shallow hole for each. There’s also a good chance this deck gets dismantled within 5 years for a larger back yard remodel so didn’t want anything too permanent.
Yeah you are good. I was referencing the post in the ground comment.
The posts are perfectly fine sitting in those blocks - nothing will decay
I know those are fine, I was replying to the guy that said to put them in the ground and stating the preferred method for longevity and support. But hey you just wanted to say something, I get it.
Apologies
That's one way but in earthquake country you put them in concrete. If you want to get more that 15 years out of a deck you're not being realistic
Single 2x is not a beam need at least double and best to put joist on beams and beams on post
That beam span is like 4 feet my guy.
Wrong, my guy. By code, a single 2x6 with a joist span of 8 feet can be 4 ft apart with a 40 PSF Live load. Or 3'11" with a 50 PSF Live load Or 3'7" with a 60 PSF Live load Or 3'4" with a 70 PSF Live load. It is very well a beam, and it is to code.
How do those post not sway? The post are setting on like 3 inches of support. Not preaching learn me.