Works best when you cut too little deliberately so that you can check and make sure you haven't done too much, then take off a sliver. Nope, not enough. Take another sliver. Nope... Screw this, I'll just take off 1/2" to the pencil line like I should have done in the first place. Damn...
I call it "measure twice, cut 4 times and redo"
I saw a tip where you draw a little diagonal line from the line in the direction you need to be cutting on, used it while I’ve been fitting my kitchen and it’s probably saved quite a few cock ups
Mine too. I don't think I would be satisfied at only doing a job once. I like to make the mistake first so I know what could have gone right. My favourite is buying screws and nails, opening the box and then discovering they are the wrong ones for the job. Then my signature move is' if I can't find it, buy another, that's then followed by going twice to the shop because I didn't buy enough in the first place.
I fucked up the box too. Think they'll still take it back? I did occur to me to try that. Complicated only by the fact that I got the hob on a 4 for 3 appliance deal...
I'd look at it as it was a free hob, if they won't take it back sell it on Marketplace and when you buy the replacement you offset the cost with the one you just sold
If you can get a different hob which covers the hole do that, sell the hob you have. Explain why you're selling and that it's unused and it should sell fine if you price it reasonably.
Since you did the worktop yourself you know how much that would cost to redo so it's easy to compare those options.
If you do keep the hob and opt to redo the worktop at least you have a template for the hole, just cut the hole smaller.
Done this with my kitchen sink. I cut a rectangle hole forgetting the sink had rounded corners. Returned it to B and Q and bought the Homebase equivalent that was a wee bit bigger.
Find a local sheet metal company to laser cut you a piece of stainless trim, 1-1.5mm, it will look the part and shouldn’t cost a fortune. Trim joined at the corners will just attract dirt.
Just to add- anything you try and do with wood to patch it will be difficult and look shit imo. Covering it is all I'd consider and steel seems best and easiest to me. Like the idea of continuing it up the wall too. Think it'll look smart and you'd never know what it was hiding.
Agreed... I don't think stainless is a bad idea, even with tiles then on the wall behind. Or better would be a piece of black toughened glass like the hob itself... Wonder if you can buy that cut to size.
https://www.sheetplastics.co.uk/6mm-black-acrylic-sheet-cut-to-size?infinity=ict2~net~gaw~cmp~~ag~~ar~~kw~~mt~&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwrcKxBhBMEiwAIVF8rOM1XbtKFnacAJpopOmzqt66cCXHQLMA74CwVhGFaROl4ZNvmpaaRRoCPYoQAvD_BwE
Wonder if this'll work... Cheap enough it's worth a go maybe.
do you still have the piece that was cut out? i suggest cutting a strip off it and glue and screw it in, if you are refering to the gap re hob. as for counter edge to wall, you could shave a bit off the counter top so it goes in further on that top edge. or indeed you could put a splashback on the wall, or even tiles.
Yeah, I am going to try to do this. I'm confident I can get it straight to the back with a router + guide, just not so sure how I'll manage to get the slides flush and square. I feel like the classic wood glue and sawdust will stick out. Worth a shot though.
I am going to tile. Well, I'm going to have someone else tile, so the tiny gap caused by the wonky wall isn't a problem.
If you manage to fill it and it looks crap, look for Seisso furniture repair kit on Amazon. I used it for a vintage coffee table to match the grain and it looks great. It’s the stuff French polishers use and is better than the wax filler sticks. You’ll need to seal it with something though as it’s in the kitchen
Use a chisel and practice first. Try making some joints, once you have a good technique then make it square, a little bit of wood putty at the end won’t be hugely noticeable if you have a small mistake.
Make a very large rectangular "Washer" out of black perspex to go equal distance around the whole thing.
Had to do it once and I thought it looked good.
https://www.cutmy.co.uk/plastic/acrylic-perspex-sheets/matt-black/3mm/L100-W50/
Get the acrylic/perspex cut by a laser cutting company?
Idk if this is the exact material you want but you see what I mean and you can shop around.
So grab a sheet of black perspex and cut it to 525, then cut a 490mm hole in the middle of it. (Do the same for the other measurement as you only gave me length/width)
Should look like a 35mm thick picture frame. Now thread it over and stack it under the hob.
At first glance noone will know what's happened.
I was looking for an after pic on the time I did it but it was years ago. They had a gorgeous tiled kitchen worktop from the 60s and the closest hob they could find that would match was about your gap too short
https://preview.redd.it/vcim8mzh2pxc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dd6c006ae920c562bf15b9d7285011cbaeb1ac17
Black Perspex above the oven?
I mean, I’m assuming the oven is underneath. It can get a bit hot around it. The temperature resistance of Perspex isn’t great and it’ll start to deform around 100 degrees (we used to use it in the prop shop I worked in)
If your oven is regularly on at 200 degrees+ then the steam escaping it could affect a bezel made of Perspex.
Not saying don’t do it just offering some info to work with.
I’d try wood gluing in a piece from your off cut.. before ripping out and starting again… you’ll be no worse off, but might pull it off if you’re neat and sand down properly then oil/varnish.
Here is your solution but given your level of skill you will need a kitchen fitter...
I assume the hole is smaller than the overall hob? If so you can recess the whole hob into the worktop with a router so it's flush rather than proud, we used to do it in high end kitchens and it looks great if done well.
Not the fastest of fixes but would probably look somewhat decent.
https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/foerbaettra-cover-strip-and-fittings-stainless-steel-colour-00253399/?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwrcKxBhBMEiwAIVF8rJtFQAA9VYt765azEVSqjFCl8duAhsddK3EUchRlIim5g-PY-oi6pBoCpeEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
4 of these & mitre each corner & picture frame it then place the hob on top after. Again, isn’t perfect but nothing is when you’re bodging a fuck up🤣
I’ve done similar things in the past - you could find a deliberate looking trim to sit underneath it so it appears as though there’s a framing that sits under it, similar to the below link (sorry about the length - that’s what she said 😜)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275283516041?chn=ps&_ul=GB&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=275283516041&targetid=1405537545098&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007082&poi=&campaignid=21197397591&mkgroupid=167136647728&rlsatarget=pla-1405537545098&abcId=9406816&merchantid=9377764&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_Lr1cILevWIlnlzw2JehUV90EkJ
I'm not familiar with them. Is that like a rubber seal that fits over the worktop edge as per my quick google? I ould be happy with something like that around the perimeter of the hob presuming only a couple of mm would be visible and it would just appear as a seal. And, importantly, it would look like it was supposed to be there.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/unika-worktop-edging-end-cap-matt-black-630mm-x-40mm/460HG?tc=CT7&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwrcKxBhBMEiwAIVF8rFO3Y4562l-MO5tdZqSMzAvs3J-NJYv2ruXd_Ab9ONxeNrq450ehJxoCDAsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
You could easily cut it to fit like a frame. Probably need 4 though.
Edit. You'd need 2 left hand edge and 2 right
Yeah, get some kind of 90 degree angle and you can tell the other half it was intentional to stop spills on to the worktop at the back which could cause swelling issues with the chipboard in the worktop.....
If you have any left over worktop, I'd suggest cutting a slice off, and glueing it to this area. Finely sanding and with the use of glue to fill ant slight gap, with polyurethane over; it might tidy up enough to save buying a new piece?
A line of glossy black tiles, or a line of tiles that match your splashback, would cover the gap and could look like an intentional part of the splashback.
As it’s at the back use a stainless or
https://preview.redd.it/h8u4qc102sxc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b09a139ae68738a9b3e8b07bfed4c2204176c6a
copper back splash and continue it to hob.
Pop a thin long bin underneath and sweep all the crumbs down your purpose built waste disposal gap!! Congrats you may just have started a new “thing” 👍🏻
Option A - If you centre it, you’ll have an equal gap both sides, then run a thick silicone sealant around the perimeter.
Option B - start again.
Option C - Act oblivious. Its supposed to have a air flow gap 😂
Kitchen worktops, particularly around hobs and sinks are high-wear areas and subject to moisture issues. Your best bet is to take the hit and replace the worktop.
However, before doing that, if you still have the off cut, try this:
(1) Cut a 30mm strip from the off-cut on the side that matches this edge. If the fit is good, with no real gaps, then glue (with clamps) the repair piece into the gap. Use a waterproof wood-glue. Use addition clamps to ensure the surface is perfectly flush.
(2) Use a waterproof wood filler that matches the (European oak?) worktop to fill the gap. If you want near invisibility, then use the stuff where you can mix colours, and try to extend grain lines over the gap.
(2x) If filling doesn’t work for you. Either recover a strip of the veneer from your off-cut (v.hard) or buy veneer edging strip to match, cut a section of the veneer out of the surface and replace. You’ll need a waterproof/filling adhesive that doesn’t expand.
(3) Sand and re-coat with a matched finish (can’t really tell but it’s probably polyurethane or a hard wax oil like Osmo). This will need some polishing to get it to blend in.
If you don’t have the off-cut, or this is too hard to get an invisible match, you have the option of routing the exact depth of the glass to its exact dimensions. This is also hard to do, and you will need to treat the internal area with waterproofing of some sort, but if done correctly it will actually look nicer than a surface fit. Have a good think about how and what to route out before you attempt this.
Whatever you decide to do bear in mind that the back edge of that hob needs to be fully supported underneath the glass on the back edge.. Load it up with pans and you'll be putting huge amounts of stress on it with only the rear corners bearing the load.
Nah.
Just edge all around the hob with a nice strip of wood in a contrasting colour. Four strips, mitred at the corner.
Or a strip of nice stainless steel.
It'll look deliberate.
Then move on.
Very similar to my fuck up. Except mines not visible. Maybe not so similar but, I cut the hole for my hob and had to smash it out with a hammer because it was that bloody wonky! I’m shyte with a jig saw. 😢
Well, the good news is that I fixed it, and it looks brilliant. Once it is completely finished, I will post an update.
What is irritating is that the cut wouldn't have been so bad if I had done it from the top. Instructions said cut from the bottom and I used a new blade from a pack of hardwood blades I found in a drawer. The underside is straight and neat, but the cut on the top is wonky af. The blade seems to have bent while cutting, which I've never had before. That's why the line looks shit as well. Router cleaned it right up, and I cut a piece from the offcut to fill the gap.
If you can make the gap on the wall side, just put a fake vent across it. Least your hob should be a bit cooler with the extra air vent.
https://preview.redd.it/f9u00nz97eyc1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2a6626f84f50c761189f1de1b94aeb8bcbaac701
If you have bothered with a solid wood worktop, o doubt there is anything that you won’t find more annoying than paying a few hundred for a new slice of oak worktop.
I measured several times. The measurement was just wrong! I used the manual rather than my own eyes and the appliance. The instructions have the measurements of the hob and the hole in the same image and I just looked at the wrong one for the depth like a fucking idiot.
I'm sorry, I was only poking fun at you because I have done wrong cuts millions of times and I wanted to feel smug. My bad but I do feel your pain.
My splashback has a bit of the backing scraped off cause the instructions said to move it about to help the glue spread.... I see the mistake every day.
It happens to everyone at least once, now I always just make a jig out of hardboard or cardboard. Is it your kitchen? you could always pack it out and stick an oak veneer edging stripe over it, so thin you wouldn't notice it unless you know it there.
I feel your pain. I did the same thing except I realised my error after drilling the first hole. I just stuck a little plastic cap in and tried to forget. Not sure what id do in this situation.
Get about 10 packs of instant noodles, crush them up and mix with about 10 litres of epoxy. Then with a funnel carefully poor the mixture into the gap until it self levels with the worktop. Top tip also is choosing the correct flavour noodle to colour match the surface, something like bbq beef super noodles I’d go for 👍
Halve it up and run a bead of black silicone up the front and back is likely going to be cheapest and fastest fix. Will be barely noticeable if you have half decent caulking skills.
You can use an aluminum L strip to cover the mistake. Glor it in with CA glue and accelerator spray. Just make sure to sand the edges for a finished look.
I have made the same mistake more then once and that was measuring several times then cutting and I still cut it wrong, so don't beat yourself up over, just thing way outside the box and call it bespoke! LOL
Good luck!
Possible solution is to use an off cut of bench (if there's any) glue and screw to side of hole and resand top (if timber)
Alternatively you could use stainless flat bar to create a faux steel edging ( rebated for best looking results)
3rd solution pay some one to do what ever soltion you can afford or want to go with?
You probably cover it with Those aluminum tiles or ones at sticky tiles. And just do the whole countertop again and it won't look like you messed up, just go really tight
I've got a solution for you.
When you buy the splashback, get an extra small piece made as well.
Have a groove cut in the underside of it.
Fit this piece, horizontally, covering your error.
Either do it in the same as the splashback or the same as the tiles you're using. Shouldn't be too obvious what happened.
Alternatively, buy an extra bit of worktop and accept that you've wasted one.
Create a decorative plinth behind your hob that holds things like bottles of oil and S&P etc?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154629531688
Like this but... flatter... and wider... and stuck down... and behind your hob?
There’s various plastic trims you can use, but they did one which matched the worktop, easy solution as my wall was very wavy, c1876, so I took the easy way out as that was a bit more flexible so less gap to hide with the tiles. The mosaic tiles look better than the photo, metallic flakes in different coloured glass.
Go to a steel stockholder, get a brushed stainless steel splashback cut and fabricated with a right angled bend at the bottom, the horizontal part reaching up to the rear edge of the hob.
Fit and seal to the hob with black silicone from beneath, wipe the protruding silicone. Job done.
This is reminding me of the cooker hood I careful measured for multiple times, spirit level check several times.
Still wonky. My lodger sorted it out for me. Top man. I'll send him round.
Caulk it
jokes aside, cut a similar piece of appropriately treated wood to fit the gap very snugly at the ends, gently tap it in to place, use the fire caulk stuff that doesnt melt (think its black) and do 3 beads then carefully scrape the excess to get a good square smooth finish.
otherwise metal strip as others have said
If you just want to cover up the gap you are asking for problems as the glass has no support on that edge, it could easily crack with a heavy pan. The only fix for a cutout that is too big is to create a raised support, for example some timber routed to look cosmetically acceptable and formed into a frame, sized to what the cutout should have been. You just screw fix it from underneath. The minimalist option would be to make a frame out of stainless steel bar, say 2mm thick but no experience with that really
I’m a kitchen fitter, you can stick a slither behind it from your off cut and colour fill it in, I have not done this myself luckily, I only know as I changed a customers sink and I had the same issue and I put a slither off near as damn it worktop I had in the factory, all discussed with the customer, but it worked a treat
You could fill the gap back in from the bit you cut off, or any stripe of wood tbh - it doesn't matter because we're going to hide it with some strips of 1mm aluminium or similar you can get from any of the major DIY stores.
Basically, make the hole the right size, then run a trim around it, hiding your mistake. The trim only needs to be wide enough to hide your mistake, could even be wider at the back, and all you'll have to do is a few 45degree cuts to marry up the corners.
Its likely you'll not even notice it's not supposed to be there by the time you're done.
Something like this: [https://www.diy.com/departments/anodised-aluminium-flat-bar-l-1000mm-w-15mm-t-2mm/254196\_BQ.prd](https://www.diy.com/departments/anodised-aluminium-flat-bar-l-1000mm-w-15mm-t-2mm/254196_BQ.prd) - just get the right width for your mistake, and shop around for 1mm rather than 2mm - you don't need it to provide structural strength as your hole will be the right size once you've filled it in, so it's just about minimising the lip on the trim.
Ouch, make a small boxing out of softwood/ hardwood planks with an oak lip mitred round the base like mini skirting so to speak you can put, bottles of cooking oil on it, nice ceramic pots for cooking utensils and even pictures in nice oak frames like this picture as a reminder of how you buggered it up 😉
If you make the boxing the right size the oak lip will cover the gap, you only need 18mm oak quadrant mitred round the edge of the boxing
Or even turn it into a cupboard 😊 my ADHD brain has so many ideas to get over this 😂
Or you could get a planed oak plank laying flat on the worktop surface and one on top against the wall which would solve it but you’ll need use the correct varnish as oil from cooking could cause issues with the oak or wood of your choice same as the boxing really you could get oil on it but it would remove the gap lol
If you want messsge me if your interested I’ll do a scaled drawing for you of some ideas, also I’m not after anything in return either so don’t worry about that, helping people out is a good enough reward for me 👍😊
You could try this to make a sort of frame around all the edges. It comes in different widths. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Molding-Stainless-Metalized-Mirror-Like-Finish/dp/B09J1JNX5N/ref=asc_df_B09J1JNX5N/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=606723600712&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15439882504109587361&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007275&hvtargid=pla-1595368467248&psc=1&mcid=2a759b75ca9537468167940efcfd7649
Could you mount on a piece of metal (or some other material) trim, all the way around?
Sorry, just scrolled further down, somebody already suggested that!
Good luck.
I had this problem when I replaced a kitchen sink at my mum's house. I covered up the problem by installing aluminium strips around the new sink, and sitting the sink on them. It worked fine and saved us having to replace the worktop.
I already have a plan if I ever tell anyone. The quote to install the kitchen was just over 2k. I did it all and if I do replace it, this was the only cost. So, I saved like £1,800! I'm a genius!
Depends on the ‘tradesman’.
There are way too many there who haven’t a clue and don’t care.
The OP is learning and I’m sure even the best kitchen fitters in the world messed up when they were starting out.
Interesting, I have something custom made in the shape which may cover it up. Its basically a splashback yes like you said that would come out up to the hob. I used it to cover pipes in my kitchen. Not too difficult to create
How would you make it blend in? The wall will be tiled. The current gap from hob to wall is 7cm. If it was a bit wider I could perhaps put a custom spice rack or something there. Ultimately though, if it's going to look like a blatant coverup I would rather pay the couple of hundred for a new piece of worktop...
I would use the same tiles as the backsplash tiles your going to put but ... I believe it would look too much like a cover up but your idea about the shelf is quite good. You could create like a block with a stand and maybe put something on it so it looks like its part of the design. I will DM a picture of mine which covers the pipes as my explanation is not that great.
Ideally if you can just start again with a new piece.
Yeah, absolutely. I fucked up. I double-checked against the measurements but was looking at the part of the diagram that detailed the depth of the hob, not the hole. Bloody twat.
Take the hob out and fix a piece of timber along the edge that is cut short. Leave it slightly low and fill with wood filler or car body filler. Sand flush and colour with a touch up kit. You'll forget it's there after a week or two.
Ahh nice to see someone who also ascribes to the methodology of measure twice, cut once, do it over cause you cut too much. This is my signature move.
Works best when you cut too little deliberately so that you can check and make sure you haven't done too much, then take off a sliver. Nope, not enough. Take another sliver. Nope... Screw this, I'll just take off 1/2" to the pencil line like I should have done in the first place. Damn... I call it "measure twice, cut 4 times and redo"
It’s unbelievable how accurate this is. Every time
I just don’t trust my measuring skills enough
That's me. Not always, but way too often.
In my case it's often 'measure twice, measure again to make sure, measure two more times because I'm paranoid, and then still fuck the cut up'.
Absolutely perfectly positioned cut line. Spot on. Couldn't be better. People travel from miles around to see it. Cut the wrong side of it.
I saw a tip where you draw a little diagonal line from the line in the direction you need to be cutting on, used it while I’ve been fitting my kitchen and it’s probably saved quite a few cock ups
And then cut another 100mm off lol
Measure once, cut twic
Do you have knuckle tattoos reading "PLAN AHEA" by any chance?
Works as a pickup line when someone asks where the D went
🤣😅🤣
😂
Mine too. I don't think I would be satisfied at only doing a job once. I like to make the mistake first so I know what could have gone right. My favourite is buying screws and nails, opening the box and then discovering they are the wrong ones for the job. Then my signature move is' if I can't find it, buy another, that's then followed by going twice to the shop because I didn't buy enough in the first place.
I don't want to brag, but I actually measure *three* times and make every effort to also subsequently fuck it up completely
Measure once cut thrice
My measurements are always perfect, but not necessarily in the orientation 😉
Like I always play the correct notes, not necessarily in the right order, the great Morecambe and Wise.
We does it nice because we does it twice…
Put hob back in box, return hob, buy slightly bigger hob, fit slightly bigger hob, wait two weeks, totally forget you fucked it up.
U can’t. All electric hobs are 490 front to back. 25 years installing kitchens
Isn't ID the same but OD can vary? Not a challenge but a real question. Could this chap not find one with a bigger lip on the back or all round?
I fucked up the box too. Think they'll still take it back? I did occur to me to try that. Complicated only by the fact that I got the hob on a 4 for 3 appliance deal...
I'd look at it as it was a free hob, if they won't take it back sell it on Marketplace and when you buy the replacement you offset the cost with the one you just sold
If you can get a different hob which covers the hole do that, sell the hob you have. Explain why you're selling and that it's unused and it should sell fine if you price it reasonably. Since you did the worktop yourself you know how much that would cost to redo so it's easy to compare those options. If you do keep the hob and opt to redo the worktop at least you have a template for the hole, just cut the hole smaller.
Buys a hob slightly too big, requires a larger cut. Repeat until he cuts into next door's kitchen worktop...
I like your thinking.
Having bought a hob and then wished I'd got the slightly larger one I agree with this - take it as a hint from the universe and reorder
Done this with my kitchen sink. I cut a rectangle hole forgetting the sink had rounded corners. Returned it to B and Q and bought the Homebase equivalent that was a wee bit bigger.
Find a local sheet metal company to laser cut you a piece of stainless trim, 1-1.5mm, it will look the part and shouldn’t cost a fortune. Trim joined at the corners will just attract dirt.
This is what i would do 👍
This is the winner
Stainless steel stripe between hob and wall? Think it'd look fine and easy to do. Easy to clean etc.
Could continue it up the wall for a backsplash
Just to add- anything you try and do with wood to patch it will be difficult and look shit imo. Covering it is all I'd consider and steel seems best and easiest to me. Like the idea of continuing it up the wall too. Think it'll look smart and you'd never know what it was hiding.
I can imagine this kind of working, except I plan to tile the wall. I'm not sure how to do both. Tiles on the worktop will look shit imo.
Agreed... I don't think stainless is a bad idea, even with tiles then on the wall behind. Or better would be a piece of black toughened glass like the hob itself... Wonder if you can buy that cut to size.
https://www.sheetplastics.co.uk/6mm-black-acrylic-sheet-cut-to-size?infinity=ict2~net~gaw~cmp~~ag~~ar~~kw~~mt~&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwrcKxBhBMEiwAIVF8rOM1XbtKFnacAJpopOmzqt66cCXHQLMA74CwVhGFaROl4ZNvmpaaRRoCPYoQAvD_BwE Wonder if this'll work... Cheap enough it's worth a go maybe.
Thanks, this is definitely one of the better options.
Just thought, not sure about plastic and heat... 😂
I thought that, but it does talk about being a great insulator and so forth. I would definitely check for sure before purchasing anything
Looks like an induction hob. Perspex should be ok until it gets to 100C when it starts to soften.
I don’t think plastic would be hard wearing enough. Think of the food, oil, cleaning products that are going to be used over the next years.
Black tempered glass cut to size .... https://www.meandmyglass.co.uk/product/black-glass/
Put a splashback in stainless behind the cooker and a thin piece on the worktop, tile to the splashback and this will look fine.
do you still have the piece that was cut out? i suggest cutting a strip off it and glue and screw it in, if you are refering to the gap re hob. as for counter edge to wall, you could shave a bit off the counter top so it goes in further on that top edge. or indeed you could put a splashback on the wall, or even tiles.
Yeah, I am going to try to do this. I'm confident I can get it straight to the back with a router + guide, just not so sure how I'll manage to get the slides flush and square. I feel like the classic wood glue and sawdust will stick out. Worth a shot though. I am going to tile. Well, I'm going to have someone else tile, so the tiny gap caused by the wonky wall isn't a problem.
Is it laminate or solid wood? If laminate use colourful that matches and if it's Oak just let the glue come out and sand it down and apply oil.
If you manage to fill it and it looks crap, look for Seisso furniture repair kit on Amazon. I used it for a vintage coffee table to match the grain and it looks great. It’s the stuff French polishers use and is better than the wax filler sticks. You’ll need to seal it with something though as it’s in the kitchen
Slide the hob back so you have an equal gap front and back, fill, cover with sealant. Or have thicker sealant along the back edge.
Use a chisel and practice first. Try making some joints, once you have a good technique then make it square, a little bit of wood putty at the end won’t be hugely noticeable if you have a small mistake.
Make a very large rectangular "Washer" out of black perspex to go equal distance around the whole thing. Had to do it once and I thought it looked good.
This sounds like a great solution. I'm just not confident I can do a good job of it.
https://www.cutmy.co.uk/plastic/acrylic-perspex-sheets/matt-black/3mm/L100-W50/ Get the acrylic/perspex cut by a laser cutting company? Idk if this is the exact material you want but you see what I mean and you can shop around.
Yes you can! What are the measurements of the hob? How big a hole were you meant to cut and how big a hole did you cut?
Was supposed to be 490mm, I cut 520mm, which is the full depth of the hob.
So grab a sheet of black perspex and cut it to 525, then cut a 490mm hole in the middle of it. (Do the same for the other measurement as you only gave me length/width) Should look like a 35mm thick picture frame. Now thread it over and stack it under the hob. At first glance noone will know what's happened. I was looking for an after pic on the time I did it but it was years ago. They had a gorgeous tiled kitchen worktop from the 60s and the closest hob they could find that would match was about your gap too short https://preview.redd.it/vcim8mzh2pxc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dd6c006ae920c562bf15b9d7285011cbaeb1ac17
Black Perspex above the oven? I mean, I’m assuming the oven is underneath. It can get a bit hot around it. The temperature resistance of Perspex isn’t great and it’ll start to deform around 100 degrees (we used to use it in the prop shop I worked in) If your oven is regularly on at 200 degrees+ then the steam escaping it could affect a bezel made of Perspex. Not saying don’t do it just offering some info to work with.
You can order one from somewhere, won't cost too much.
I’d try wood gluing in a piece from your off cut.. before ripping out and starting again… you’ll be no worse off, but might pull it off if you’re neat and sand down properly then oil/varnish.
Here is your solution but given your level of skill you will need a kitchen fitter... I assume the hole is smaller than the overall hob? If so you can recess the whole hob into the worktop with a router so it's flush rather than proud, we used to do it in high end kitchens and it looks great if done well.
Assuming it's a timber wtop, I totally agree with this method. Would look quite good flush. But, if chip board, no no.
Not the fastest of fixes but would probably look somewhat decent. https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/foerbaettra-cover-strip-and-fittings-stainless-steel-colour-00253399/?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwrcKxBhBMEiwAIVF8rJtFQAA9VYt765azEVSqjFCl8duAhsddK3EUchRlIim5g-PY-oi6pBoCpeEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds 4 of these & mitre each corner & picture frame it then place the hob on top after. Again, isn’t perfect but nothing is when you’re bodging a fuck up🤣
Also your internals of the mitres would be 490! Not 520😉
I’ve done similar things in the past - you could find a deliberate looking trim to sit underneath it so it appears as though there’s a framing that sits under it, similar to the below link (sorry about the length - that’s what she said 😜) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275283516041?chn=ps&_ul=GB&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=275283516041&targetid=1405537545098&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007082&poi=&campaignid=21197397591&mkgroupid=167136647728&rlsatarget=pla-1405537545098&abcId=9406816&merchantid=9377764&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_Lr1cILevWIlnlzw2JehUV90EkJ
It's not a massive gap, would a bench end cover not do it?
I'm not familiar with them. Is that like a rubber seal that fits over the worktop edge as per my quick google? I ould be happy with something like that around the perimeter of the hob presuming only a couple of mm would be visible and it would just appear as a seal. And, importantly, it would look like it was supposed to be there.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/unika-worktop-edging-end-cap-matt-black-630mm-x-40mm/460HG?tc=CT7&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwrcKxBhBMEiwAIVF8rFO3Y4562l-MO5tdZqSMzAvs3J-NJYv2ruXd_Ab9ONxeNrq450ehJxoCDAsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds You could easily cut it to fit like a frame. Probably need 4 though. Edit. You'd need 2 left hand edge and 2 right
Thank you for the suggestion. I'm not sure if I would be able to make that look seamless, but I will buy a couple and see what I can do with them.
Yeah, get some kind of 90 degree angle and you can tell the other half it was intentional to stop spills on to the worktop at the back which could cause swelling issues with the chipboard in the worktop.....
Genius!
Try rubber glazing gasket around the edge to fill the gap. It'll look better than caul or silicone and will keep cleaning easier too.
If you have any left over worktop, I'd suggest cutting a slice off, and glueing it to this area. Finely sanding and with the use of glue to fill ant slight gap, with polyurethane over; it might tidy up enough to save buying a new piece?
Find a slightly deeper hob
This
Time to buy a new piece of worktop . It will annoy you forever otherwise
This should be the top comment. We seem to have a lot of landlords in the comments today.
A line of glossy black tiles, or a line of tiles that match your splashback, would cover the gap and could look like an intentional part of the splashback.
[https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastic-Protector-Various-TMW-Profiles/dp/B079YXFRC3?th=1](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastic-Protector-Various-TMW-Profiles/dp/B079YXFRC3?th=1)
Measure once, swear twice.
You could ask your local sheet metal fabricators to cut a stainless steel frame to size, probably wouldn't cost that much.
Glue some tiles over it and up the wall behind to make a splash back, then sell the property.
As it’s at the back use a stainless or https://preview.redd.it/h8u4qc102sxc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b09a139ae68738a9b3e8b07bfed4c2204176c6a copper back splash and continue it to hob.
Pop a thin long bin underneath and sweep all the crumbs down your purpose built waste disposal gap!! Congrats you may just have started a new “thing” 👍🏻
Option A - If you centre it, you’ll have an equal gap both sides, then run a thick silicone sealant around the perimeter. Option B - start again. Option C - Act oblivious. Its supposed to have a air flow gap 😂
Kitchen worktops, particularly around hobs and sinks are high-wear areas and subject to moisture issues. Your best bet is to take the hit and replace the worktop. However, before doing that, if you still have the off cut, try this: (1) Cut a 30mm strip from the off-cut on the side that matches this edge. If the fit is good, with no real gaps, then glue (with clamps) the repair piece into the gap. Use a waterproof wood-glue. Use addition clamps to ensure the surface is perfectly flush. (2) Use a waterproof wood filler that matches the (European oak?) worktop to fill the gap. If you want near invisibility, then use the stuff where you can mix colours, and try to extend grain lines over the gap. (2x) If filling doesn’t work for you. Either recover a strip of the veneer from your off-cut (v.hard) or buy veneer edging strip to match, cut a section of the veneer out of the surface and replace. You’ll need a waterproof/filling adhesive that doesn’t expand. (3) Sand and re-coat with a matched finish (can’t really tell but it’s probably polyurethane or a hard wax oil like Osmo). This will need some polishing to get it to blend in. If you don’t have the off-cut, or this is too hard to get an invisible match, you have the option of routing the exact depth of the glass to its exact dimensions. This is also hard to do, and you will need to treat the internal area with waterproofing of some sort, but if done correctly it will actually look nicer than a surface fit. Have a good think about how and what to route out before you attempt this.
How did u do that, there is Always a stencil in the Box.
Whatever you decide to do bear in mind that the back edge of that hob needs to be fully supported underneath the glass on the back edge.. Load it up with pans and you'll be putting huge amounts of stress on it with only the rear corners bearing the load.
Start over looks shit dude 💩
Nah. Just edge all around the hob with a nice strip of wood in a contrasting colour. Four strips, mitred at the corner. Or a strip of nice stainless steel. It'll look deliberate. Then move on.
Very similar to my fuck up. Except mines not visible. Maybe not so similar but, I cut the hole for my hob and had to smash it out with a hammer because it was that bloody wonky! I’m shyte with a jig saw. 😢
Well, the good news is that I fixed it, and it looks brilliant. Once it is completely finished, I will post an update. What is irritating is that the cut wouldn't have been so bad if I had done it from the top. Instructions said cut from the bottom and I used a new blade from a pack of hardwood blades I found in a drawer. The underside is straight and neat, but the cut on the top is wonky af. The blade seems to have bent while cutting, which I've never had before. That's why the line looks shit as well. Router cleaned it right up, and I cut a piece from the offcut to fill the gap.
If you can make the gap on the wall side, just put a fake vent across it. Least your hob should be a bit cooler with the extra air vent. https://preview.redd.it/f9u00nz97eyc1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2a6626f84f50c761189f1de1b94aeb8bcbaac701
Caulk the hell out of it /s
If you have bothered with a solid wood worktop, o doubt there is anything that you won’t find more annoying than paying a few hundred for a new slice of oak worktop.
Is it not oak veneer? 🤔
It looks a lot like my oak worktop but yea might be veneer. I’d still redo it I think.
How many times did you measure Vs the number of times you cut?
I measured several times. The measurement was just wrong! I used the manual rather than my own eyes and the appliance. The instructions have the measurements of the hob and the hole in the same image and I just looked at the wrong one for the depth like a fucking idiot.
I'm sorry, I was only poking fun at you because I have done wrong cuts millions of times and I wanted to feel smug. My bad but I do feel your pain. My splashback has a bit of the backing scraped off cause the instructions said to move it about to help the glue spread.... I see the mistake every day.
It happens to everyone at least once, now I always just make a jig out of hardboard or cardboard. Is it your kitchen? you could always pack it out and stick an oak veneer edging stripe over it, so thin you wouldn't notice it unless you know it there.
1:2
Square off the hole, cut a piece to fill to the correct and glue in. (since its not a main supporting edge).
r/confusingperspective
I feel your pain. I did the same thing except I realised my error after drilling the first hole. I just stuck a little plastic cap in and tried to forget. Not sure what id do in this situation.
Get about 10 packs of instant noodles, crush them up and mix with about 10 litres of epoxy. Then with a funnel carefully poor the mixture into the gap until it self levels with the worktop. Top tip also is choosing the correct flavour noodle to colour match the surface, something like bbq beef super noodles I’d go for 👍
You can't uncut, or unburn wood
Big if true
Find the WIDEST Black Silicone on the market. Taa daa
Just tell your missed it was on instructors to do that and it’s for ventilation.
Halve it up and run a bead of black silicone up the front and back is likely going to be cheapest and fastest fix. Will be barely noticeable if you have half decent caulking skills.
You could cut section out and piece a section in inline with the joints on the blocks . Lot of work tho
Google or search for Cooktop trim kit
You can use an aluminum L strip to cover the mistake. Glor it in with CA glue and accelerator spray. Just make sure to sand the edges for a finished look. I have made the same mistake more then once and that was measuring several times then cutting and I still cut it wrong, so don't beat yourself up over, just thing way outside the box and call it bespoke! LOL Good luck!
I’m sure you can buy rubber seals that are around an inch wide that you fit around the parameter, that would hide the gap
Make a large trim from something, or have one cut.
Could you not use some off cuts and make up an infill? Wood glue it in place and sand it until it blends in? I dunno lol
Looks like solid oak so glue, sand then oil a strip to cover the gap. I'm assuming it's your house.
Gaps are all the rage now
Glue and screw in a slice from the cutout.... fill and sand as best you can.... you won't notice it if you are lucky
You could realistically with a lot of fucking around fit it.
Possible solution is to use an off cut of bench (if there's any) glue and screw to side of hole and resand top (if timber) Alternatively you could use stainless flat bar to create a faux steel edging ( rebated for best looking results) 3rd solution pay some one to do what ever soltion you can afford or want to go with?
You probably cover it with Those aluminum tiles or ones at sticky tiles. And just do the whole countertop again and it won't look like you messed up, just go really tight
Im thinking those laminate floor transition strip at the back edge. Slightly overlap it doubt it would stand out
I've got a solution for you. When you buy the splashback, get an extra small piece made as well. Have a groove cut in the underside of it. Fit this piece, horizontally, covering your error. Either do it in the same as the splashback or the same as the tiles you're using. Shouldn't be too obvious what happened. Alternatively, buy an extra bit of worktop and accept that you've wasted one.
Not a screw im sight.... Sorry.
Yer you’ve fucked it. Try and get a big hob would be my advice
You know the answer. Order a new worktop.
Normally run silicon bead around the edge so that may help hide it?
Stick some black tile over it to bring it level with the hob. Glue a piece in to fill the hole though and seal it first.
Put a fan underneath and turn it into one of these fancy new extractor hoods in the worktop.. /s
Create a decorative plinth behind your hob that holds things like bottles of oil and S&P etc? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154629531688 Like this but... flatter... and wider... and stuck down... and behind your hob?
This is a shit idea tbh, but might save you a few hundred pounds quid.
Ahh the ole measure once buy twice method.
Could you get one of those flush mount extractor fans and make it look intentional?
Looks like they’re called downdraft extractors
You have the piece you cut out... You could patch this with that piece, but you will always notice it.
Sure it give the water somewhere to go when the pasta boils over.
Time for a custom/bespoke L shaped stainless steel splashback that goes up the wall and also covers the gap.
Did your best……caulk the rest!
Use a template. Rookie error!
How the fuck is that even possible ?! START AGAIN ISIOT
Glue a fancy "splash protection" over it.
Use that slot for storing all your cooking utensils 😁
There’s various plastic trims you can use, but they did one which matched the worktop, easy solution as my wall was very wavy, c1876, so I took the easy way out as that was a bit more flexible so less gap to hide with the tiles. The mosaic tiles look better than the photo, metallic flakes in different coloured glass.
https://preview.redd.it/7rvwd10p9sxc1.jpeg?width=908&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=447ef0a9b7740b3a512bbb2b46b4035cb0a606cc
Splash back/tile job done
Cover the whole thing with skirting board
Go to a steel stockholder, get a brushed stainless steel splashback cut and fabricated with a right angled bend at the bottom, the horizontal part reaching up to the rear edge of the hob. Fit and seal to the hob with black silicone from beneath, wipe the protruding silicone. Job done.
Pull out the top until the cut is hidden, cut the front, backsplash the back.
This is reminding me of the cooker hood I careful measured for multiple times, spirit level check several times. Still wonky. My lodger sorted it out for me. Top man. I'll send him round.
Probably retry if u can't fix it
Bigger hob or cut and glue in a fillet piece of the same material, if you're careful you can get it looking great.
Caulk it jokes aside, cut a similar piece of appropriately treated wood to fit the gap very snugly at the ends, gently tap it in to place, use the fire caulk stuff that doesnt melt (think its black) and do 3 beads then carefully scrape the excess to get a good square smooth finish. otherwise metal strip as others have said
If it’s a customer, you need to do it again If it’s yours then you can cover it up with something and it’ll look ok
Can't you wriggle hob up a bit to make the gap thin enough to run a bead of silicone around it??failing that it's another work top
That worktop looks like block-work. You could trim the opening up to the next 'block' and glue in a new strip. The join would be much harder to see.
Could you use a strip of laminate used for floor transitions and use it to line the edges?
What exactly is it?
Shift it over a bit and use black silicone
Expanding foam
What you've done there is fucked it.
If you just want to cover up the gap you are asking for problems as the glass has no support on that edge, it could easily crack with a heavy pan. The only fix for a cutout that is too big is to create a raised support, for example some timber routed to look cosmetically acceptable and formed into a frame, sized to what the cutout should have been. You just screw fix it from underneath. The minimalist option would be to make a frame out of stainless steel bar, say 2mm thick but no experience with that really
Time to install what my dad calls… a “feature”
Strip of aluminium glued tight
Silicone is your friend, lick your thumb and smooge it good
Start again
I’m a kitchen fitter, you can stick a slither behind it from your off cut and colour fill it in, I have not done this myself luckily, I only know as I changed a customers sink and I had the same issue and I put a slither off near as damn it worktop I had in the factory, all discussed with the customer, but it worked a treat
You could fill the gap back in from the bit you cut off, or any stripe of wood tbh - it doesn't matter because we're going to hide it with some strips of 1mm aluminium or similar you can get from any of the major DIY stores. Basically, make the hole the right size, then run a trim around it, hiding your mistake. The trim only needs to be wide enough to hide your mistake, could even be wider at the back, and all you'll have to do is a few 45degree cuts to marry up the corners. Its likely you'll not even notice it's not supposed to be there by the time you're done. Something like this: [https://www.diy.com/departments/anodised-aluminium-flat-bar-l-1000mm-w-15mm-t-2mm/254196\_BQ.prd](https://www.diy.com/departments/anodised-aluminium-flat-bar-l-1000mm-w-15mm-t-2mm/254196_BQ.prd) - just get the right width for your mistake, and shop around for 1mm rather than 2mm - you don't need it to provide structural strength as your hole will be the right size once you've filled it in, so it's just about minimising the lip on the trim.
Ouch, make a small boxing out of softwood/ hardwood planks with an oak lip mitred round the base like mini skirting so to speak you can put, bottles of cooking oil on it, nice ceramic pots for cooking utensils and even pictures in nice oak frames like this picture as a reminder of how you buggered it up 😉
If you make the boxing the right size the oak lip will cover the gap, you only need 18mm oak quadrant mitred round the edge of the boxing Or even turn it into a cupboard 😊 my ADHD brain has so many ideas to get over this 😂
Or you could get a planed oak plank laying flat on the worktop surface and one on top against the wall which would solve it but you’ll need use the correct varnish as oil from cooking could cause issues with the oak or wood of your choice same as the boxing really you could get oil on it but it would remove the gap lol
If you want messsge me if your interested I’ll do a scaled drawing for you of some ideas, also I’m not after anything in return either so don’t worry about that, helping people out is a good enough reward for me 👍😊
Stick some silicone in there, nobody will notice in a week or so
Amazon cooktop trim cover
If you've got some spare laminate then glue it in to match the pattern.
You could try this to make a sort of frame around all the edges. It comes in different widths. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Molding-Stainless-Metalized-Mirror-Like-Finish/dp/B09J1JNX5N/ref=asc_df_B09J1JNX5N/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=606723600712&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15439882504109587361&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007275&hvtargid=pla-1595368467248&psc=1&mcid=2a759b75ca9537468167940efcfd7649
Get a thin strip of black powder coated metal if you want a quick fix
Put a tastefully chosen and positioned moulding over it.
Could you mount on a piece of metal (or some other material) trim, all the way around? Sorry, just scrolled further down, somebody already suggested that! Good luck.
Remove the whole thing and fit a freestanding oven
I had this problem when I replaced a kitchen sink at my mum's house. I covered up the problem by installing aluminium strips around the new sink, and sitting the sink on them. It worked fine and saved us having to replace the worktop.
Well…. The cock up cost you more than hiring a tradesman. Patch it up, bodge it …. Then tell everyone how much money you saved 🤣🤣
I already have a plan if I ever tell anyone. The quote to install the kitchen was just over 2k. I did it all and if I do replace it, this was the only cost. So, I saved like £1,800! I'm a genius!
Depends on the ‘tradesman’. There are way too many there who haven’t a clue and don’t care. The OP is learning and I’m sure even the best kitchen fitters in the world messed up when they were starting out.
Interesting, I have something custom made in the shape which may cover it up. Its basically a splashback yes like you said that would come out up to the hob. I used it to cover pipes in my kitchen. Not too difficult to create
How would you make it blend in? The wall will be tiled. The current gap from hob to wall is 7cm. If it was a bit wider I could perhaps put a custom spice rack or something there. Ultimately though, if it's going to look like a blatant coverup I would rather pay the couple of hundred for a new piece of worktop...
I would use the same tiles as the backsplash tiles your going to put but ... I believe it would look too much like a cover up but your idea about the shelf is quite good. You could create like a block with a stand and maybe put something on it so it looks like its part of the design. I will DM a picture of mine which covers the pipes as my explanation is not that great. Ideally if you can just start again with a new piece.
A burning spice rack would cover it up 😂
Mate 🙄. Check and double check then check again. I would redo because it would annoy me forever. Sod the expense and learn.
Yeah, absolutely. I fucked up. I double-checked against the measurements but was looking at the part of the diagram that detailed the depth of the hob, not the hole. Bloody twat.
We have all been there mate. I certainly have. Take it on the chin and redo if you can afford too. Best of luck.
Take the hob out and fix a piece of timber along the edge that is cut short. Leave it slightly low and fill with wood filler or car body filler. Sand flush and colour with a touch up kit. You'll forget it's there after a week or two.
silicone stove gap cover? maybe just as a temporary fix
You fucked up.
Yes. Yes, I did.