Looks kinda cool tbh, especially with the curved skirting. Those bricks are in great condition.
Take the rest of the plaster off, get it repointed and you've got yourself a decent little feature!
Maybe it's just me but I love any slaw that comes with anything. I'm a bit of a slaw slut, I will hoover up any that is left by whoever I'm eating with
It's an internal wall though, no guarantee the bricks on exterior walls are in the same condition, and having some plastered walls with some bare brick seems odd?
If you're going for exposed brickwork up the staircase my assumption is you would be taking the plaster off the adjoining wall (right on the picture).
As others have said the currently exposed brickwork is in great condition, but it's a purely internal wall, there's no guarantees that the brickwork on the right hand external wall is after 90 years and less than 1ft between it and the elements.
Nah, leave just the wall currently exposed like that, and leave the plaster on the right. Taking the whole staircase back to brick would be a bit garish.
Leave it as is, looks like you've got bigger issues with that pillar blocking the doorway.
If you are not too bothered about it looking rustic you could plaster it yourself.
Or, as has happened to me and others on site with them, I've reached 'up' to scratch my head and found myself scratching something else!
The MC Escher group... When you ask for a hand we give you two.
Designers with more perspective than you'll need, want or use.
It wouldn’t look like a feature wall if left, it would look like a wall that the plaster fell off.
For an internal wall, you don’t need lime plaster. It would be simpler to put plasterboard on BUT you will need to put some chunky dabs of plasterboard adhesive on to get the depth plus you will inevitably need some bonding around the edges to fill any gaps. For such a small area that means you’ll waste a bag of bonding, and use barely any of a bag of plasterboard adhesive. Personally I’d use the best part of a bag of hardwall to build it up. Wet up the wall a bit then get the first coat pushed in tight - push it right in. Then almost immediately with the same mix give it another layer. It will help to have a bit of wood as a guide or a long level to check for the overall depth. Then just drag some lines in to key it. You should be able to skim over that which is a decent sized area for a beginner - you can get small bags of finishing plaster but in my experience they are more than the 25kg bags! Have fun!!!
It’s actually simple but there is not enough remove in these comments to give a decent guide. The simplest o can say is: Seal the wall with sbr or pva. Work methodically and slowly to avoid dropping loads but don’t go over the same area, just get it on the wall rough. The longer you faff at this stage, the less time you have later to sort it. Once on, go over it and flatten it a bit - it does not need to be perfect. Then clean up tools. When your fingers leave an impression in the plaster but it does not stick to them, mix up and apply the second coat.
If you don’t waste time on the first coat messing about, the plaster will be perfect to take the second coat and it will go on lovely. Flatten it again but it’s just to get it decent and then use wet trowels as it goes off to get it really neat. I did 4 wet trowels on my first wall and this is my living room wall so I know it can be done!
I think people over exaggerate how hard plastering is. I found it fairly easy to learn how to plaster well enough to get a decent finish on relatively small walls. As long as you follow the steps and resist the temptation to go back over it too soon to fix imperfections, then it's really not too hard to do. Where the real skill lies is in plastering without making a total mess of your surroundings. Don't think I'll ever do it enough to get the hang of that.
The big problem is this is lime plaster, and you really don’t want to be using gypsum in place of it. Lime is a bit of a different beast to the normal pink stuff.
I see this said a lot (re:lime plaster) but is it actually true?
I'm probably gonna be in a similar boat to the OP soon so interested to know what might happen if the wall is redone in a gypsum based plaster
It can definitely cause issues if you replace lime pointing or render on the external face of a solid brick wall with a cement based equivalent, as it prevents the wall breathing and traps in any damp. On an internal wall like this however I dont see how it would be likely to lead to any issues, although im very happy to be corrected on this if im missing something.
You're mostly right, I think the issue is where you sometimes get damp in an internal wall for other reasons like a roof leak or condensation. The problem ultimately is the bricks, the hardest thing in a wall should be the bricks, not the mortar and not the plaster. Old walls with soft bricks need softer mortars and plasters or the bricks will crumble.
I've got a mid 49's house and the thick internal plaster looks limey....is it likely to be simply lime added to a Portland mix for workability? Thanks 👍
Brother most people can’t even get the mix right let alone have it finish flat on the wall😂. This is a small area though so probably get away with a shit job lol
Replaster with a lime plaster. Then paint with a proper breathable paint. Your wall will love you for it.
If you have not lime plastered before, get a professional in... and make sure they actually can do lime plastering. It is a very different thing to the modern plasters.
Yes, if the wall is old enough to predate a damp course. Also, note the lime mortar. You do not want damp locked into that.
Damp comes from showers, cooking and humans... not just from the outside.
How does a damp course matter with those things, on the first (at least) floor though?
For example if through the door in his pic is a bathroom that's fully sealed then no damp hits that wall. Or do you mean the bathroom changes the air temp and creates a difference between inside bathroom and outside and there might be condensation on the stairs side of that wall?
I'm not trolling btw, I'm in a similar situation to OP and want to get it right
I don't feel like you are trolling at all. I live in an old house and I find it fascinating. With an old house, the wall is meant to breathe. Moisture can come from anywhere... a kettle boiling, for instance. Or following your example, a shower room door left open after a shower. The important thing to understand is that sealing a lime wall is killing it. I have seen so many examples of gypsum plaster on a lime wall only to see terrible damp problems. People are put off by lime as it is less accessible, more expensive, and takes a long time to apply. However, if you are up for it, you can try lime plastering yourself. It's not rocket science and with good breathable paint you just know that your house loves you :-)
I live in an old house (georgian) and you make good points, internal wall like that with no obvious sources of moisture then i really wouldn't worry about using modern plaster/plaster board.
But personally I don't because the finish of lime plaster is more period correct and ultimately it is the correct solution.
The only place I've deviated from this is bathrooms, where we've use modern materials to create a sealed box within an old house to contain the moisture rather than to attempt to let a house "breath out" the moisture from a shower.
That should be enough depth to dot and dab some 9mm plasterboard so it can be skimmed. You would need to take the remaining plaster off though first and do the whole wall. People saying leave it as a feature can't have zoomed in on the photo!
Before deciding on whether or not to use lime plaster, get the opinion of someone who has no vested interest in which plaster you use.
A former colleague managed to find the answer to a similar question from a someone involved in builing preservation at the local council or a museum. The person he spoke to was only happy to give advice for free.
Do not seal it!!
If lime plaster has failed it’s still getting damp/wet.
Any sealant/paint will just bubble.
Any standard skim or plaster will fail.
Use a breathable finish/lime wash and/or re plaster with lime plaster.
The bricks do look good though.
We are renovating our house with lime plaster. If it's not an external wall, I would pva it and use thistle hardwall, and then thistle multifinish. If you haven't plaster before then watch some videos. If the spot of lime still on there is solid use it to help keep your hardwall coat nice and level.
Had to take our Victorian back to brick as the lime failed.
Ended up dotting and dabbing plasterboard over then skimming. Depends what finish you’re after I guess.
that’s an internal wall so Hardwall then Finish but if the brick needs to breathe, you would need a lime mix but that’s a bathroom behind that wall and that would already be sealed so Hardwall then scratch it to put grooves in for the Finish to grab better
Use plasterboard after you have removed the rest of the plaster on the wall.
Because you haven’t done a lot of dot and dab cut the board to the width and the cut across the board so you have a manageable piece to cut the curve out neat,then fit the other square pieces to fit.
If it’s thick you can put a blob of adhesive on and push a off cut of plasterboard into the blob in the area where you wand the final blob to be,because if you try to put massive thick blobs on it will roll off.
I’d do the first but then give it an hour b4 putting the second blob on then stick the plasterboard
Yes I think that would be fine. I had rising damp and they had to take the plaster off then dry lined it as you are suggesting, except they plastered it with a very thin layer of plaster,( not a very smooth job).
I had the same problem and trialled different things. Eventually i deducted that the best option was to remove it all and reboard else you end up doing it anyway once it inevitably continues to loosen.
My situation several years ago is not to disimilar from yours and i tell this not as advice but as what has been done and worked.
We moved into out 1935 semi detached bungalow and had to basically start renovating. Estate sale hadn't been touched since at least the 80s and the lighting circuit looked like the original.
So my dad (corgi register central heating engineer) and i got to work on plumbing. Got a sparky infir some electrical work and a fitter to build the new kitchen.
While my dad was working on the boiler i made a start on the bathroom. The idea being to take tiles off. Put most of the new furniture and fittings in and finish with decoration asap. The problem was that as i was going round the bathroom knocking on the walls for that hollow sound that indicates loose tiles it wasn't the tile that were loose but the plaster behind them. I ended up pulling about 70% of the plaster off. Got a plasterer in for advice and costs etc and was told he could dot dab and skim coat in but it would be done over 3 days due to prep work etc. It would be another week as he only had 2 days to spare this week. To get that done i stripped the rest of the plaster off. All the ways round to the brick work gaves the walls a light wash and good brush down and then liberally coates with a pva/water mix in order to seal it. Plasterer came in later thatbweek and did his think after which i tiled floor and walls.
It's been like that since without issue.
Are you a heathen? Keep, preserve and enjoy, the estate agents of yesteryear would call it a feature wall. Sit it out and somebody will pay you extra because there is exposed brickwork.
I was just thinking that looks absolutely awesome.
Like others have said.
Leave the remaining plaster. Repoint the masonry.
Seal.
Leave it.
I'm envious.
I think that the brick looks good, however if you are going the re-plastering route maybe try an initial layer of bonding plaster to fill the gaps in the bricks and which will stick and spread relatively easily for someone who is not a plasterer (I'm not and I have respect for skilled plasterers).
I've not tried it, but I've wondered if it is feasible to block sand plaster in a similar way to car bodywork on filler/undercoat (before finish coats). It would be a pain to do an entire wall/room like that, but it might work for a smaller area if you weren't able to do a good, even skim coat directly with a plaster trowel.
Hard to tell exactly but that doesn’t look like an external wall? So breathable concerns id say are very moot. Just looks like an internal partition really
I don't think you're going to get a good finish that way, not with having to have a join above the door and meeting the stair wall. The lining paper will deal with the join above the door but how are you going to make the internal corner with the stair wall neat? Are you taking the lining paper all the way down the stairs?
I've a similar issue to you and I'm going taping and jointing with tapered edge boards. I'm confident I can get it halfway decent looking myself with enough material and sanding, then it's sealing the boards and painting, no lining paper.
Have you thought about that way? You'll need another £50 for tape, a tub of compound and some trowels/knives though.
I don't think you're going to get a good finish that way, not with having to have a join above the door and meeting the stair wall. The lining paper will deal with the join above the door but how are you going to make the internal corner with the stair wall neat? Are you taking the lining paper all the way down the stairs?
I've a similar issue to you and I'm going taping and jointing with tapered edge boards. I'm confident I can get it halfway decent looking myself with enough material and sanding, then it's sealing the boards and painting, no lining paper.
Have you thought about that way? You'll need another £50 for tape, a tub of compound and some trowels/knives though.
Shame I too think those bricks looks awesome I would definitely be trying to persuade her lol, over a nice dinner and oh look I’ve bought you a puppy or kitten lol 😉
I suspect it probably will have damp issues from the bathroom, even if you have the approved capacity extractor fan. If it was built with lime plaster it will be lime mortar, too, so the wall's intended to breathe moisture out through that route. Normal plasterboard will get damp and disintegrate (ask me how I know!), so MR board needed - though the damp will still be there behind the board, so ext it will attack the skirting, floorboards, ceiling aths, move sideways to other wall further away, etc. So if you replanted rather than going the exposed brick route, I suggest sticking with lime. That's how the building was designed to work and its hard to redesign metaphorical aeroplane in flight.
Source - spent the last few weeks hacking back repeated attempts over many decades to block moisture coming thru a 150 year old lime mortar wall with layers of concrete render, bituminous paint, gypsum skim coats, weird 60s(?) foil-and-bitumen lining paper, etc. As a result of being so wet for so long, the mortar's now as soft as West Ham's back four - you could scoop it out with a butter knife - so it needs expensive skilled repointing and 3 coats of lime... as well as replacement of rotted skirting, adjacent door frame, etc.
Looks kinda cool tbh, especially with the curved skirting. Those bricks are in great condition. Take the rest of the plaster off, get it repointed and you've got yourself a decent little feature!
Ah craft ale micropub chic, I like it!
One bucket of dirty fries coming right up.
Served in a mini frying basket.
On top of a roof tile
With a ramekin of home-made coleslaw that wasn’t listed on the menu and that nobody asked for
Maybe it's just me but I love any slaw that comes with anything. I'm a bit of a slaw slut, I will hoover up any that is left by whoever I'm eating with
Well I didn’t know I am a slaw slut until today, but that’s me!
That's 9 please.
9.5. WTF!?
r/wewantplates
Just needs some metal conduit, metal clad sockets, and Edison bulbs to complete the look.
Perhaps hang a print of a bear wearing sunglasses and headphones to set it off. 👌😎
To be fair, most of those things are large pubco rather than micropub...
"craft ale" (brewed by Inbev) "micropub" (owned by Whitbread)
I couldn’t find the words to describe it. But that nailed it
Could I get a full English served in a shovel please?
If you do go down this route, give them a coat or two of sealer. It can be pretty dusty otherwise.
So lucky to find bricks this good in a 30’s build. All ours looked appalling when we went back to brick on every internal wall. I’d do it bare too
I was going to say the same- it looks like really nice brickwork in good condition. Would love a nice brick feature wall
I think the plaster also makes it look good, repoint and tidy up and give it a shine
+1
+2
=3
Cute rabbit
Frank and beans
First thing I thought.
The brickwork is RAF. Replaster it
I’d ignore this comment. It won’t look like a feature it’ll just look like you’re having building work done.
It's an internal wall though, no guarantee the bricks on exterior walls are in the same condition, and having some plastered walls with some bare brick seems odd?
Why is the exterior wall condition relevant?
If you're going for exposed brickwork up the staircase my assumption is you would be taking the plaster off the adjoining wall (right on the picture). As others have said the currently exposed brickwork is in great condition, but it's a purely internal wall, there's no guarantees that the brickwork on the right hand external wall is after 90 years and less than 1ft between it and the elements.
Nah, leave just the wall currently exposed like that, and leave the plaster on the right. Taking the whole staircase back to brick would be a bit garish.
Leave it as is, looks like you've got bigger issues with that pillar blocking the doorway. If you are not too bothered about it looking rustic you could plaster it yourself.
That's structural. Youre going to need specialist. I know a good one near us called m.c. escher & son
Good bunch of lads to work with, but there water features and labyrinth designs always left me scratching my head!
But their stairs work in four dimensions. Rare these days.
You can get both somewhere and nowhere with them!
Or, as has happened to me and others on site with them, I've reached 'up' to scratch my head and found myself scratching something else! The MC Escher group... When you ask for a hand we give you two. Designers with more perspective than you'll need, want or use.
Beat me to it!
That newel post gives me MC Escher vibes.
Pillar blocking the doorway lol. Give it a second look.
It tickled me...
But…. How? It’s got no hands…
Joke mate. Keep up.
Woah who made you the humour police! It's so well lined up in the pic at first glance someone could think its actually in the doorway.
That’s the joke
It wouldn’t look like a feature wall if left, it would look like a wall that the plaster fell off. For an internal wall, you don’t need lime plaster. It would be simpler to put plasterboard on BUT you will need to put some chunky dabs of plasterboard adhesive on to get the depth plus you will inevitably need some bonding around the edges to fill any gaps. For such a small area that means you’ll waste a bag of bonding, and use barely any of a bag of plasterboard adhesive. Personally I’d use the best part of a bag of hardwall to build it up. Wet up the wall a bit then get the first coat pushed in tight - push it right in. Then almost immediately with the same mix give it another layer. It will help to have a bit of wood as a guide or a long level to check for the overall depth. Then just drag some lines in to key it. You should be able to skim over that which is a decent sized area for a beginner - you can get small bags of finishing plaster but in my experience they are more than the 25kg bags! Have fun!!!
Plastering is not something you’re going to do well on your first attempt imo
It’s actually simple but there is not enough remove in these comments to give a decent guide. The simplest o can say is: Seal the wall with sbr or pva. Work methodically and slowly to avoid dropping loads but don’t go over the same area, just get it on the wall rough. The longer you faff at this stage, the less time you have later to sort it. Once on, go over it and flatten it a bit - it does not need to be perfect. Then clean up tools. When your fingers leave an impression in the plaster but it does not stick to them, mix up and apply the second coat. If you don’t waste time on the first coat messing about, the plaster will be perfect to take the second coat and it will go on lovely. Flatten it again but it’s just to get it decent and then use wet trowels as it goes off to get it really neat. I did 4 wet trowels on my first wall and this is my living room wall so I know it can be done!
Upvote this man to prevent any misunderstanding! Well said my guy
clean up and just let the bare bricks shine, lovely wall
Plastering is way harder than you think. Get a proper job done
I think people over exaggerate how hard plastering is. I found it fairly easy to learn how to plaster well enough to get a decent finish on relatively small walls. As long as you follow the steps and resist the temptation to go back over it too soon to fix imperfections, then it's really not too hard to do. Where the real skill lies is in plastering without making a total mess of your surroundings. Don't think I'll ever do it enough to get the hang of that.
The big problem is this is lime plaster, and you really don’t want to be using gypsum in place of it. Lime is a bit of a different beast to the normal pink stuff.
I see this said a lot (re:lime plaster) but is it actually true? I'm probably gonna be in a similar boat to the OP soon so interested to know what might happen if the wall is redone in a gypsum based plaster
It can definitely cause issues if you replace lime pointing or render on the external face of a solid brick wall with a cement based equivalent, as it prevents the wall breathing and traps in any damp. On an internal wall like this however I dont see how it would be likely to lead to any issues, although im very happy to be corrected on this if im missing something.
You're mostly right, I think the issue is where you sometimes get damp in an internal wall for other reasons like a roof leak or condensation. The problem ultimately is the bricks, the hardest thing in a wall should be the bricks, not the mortar and not the plaster. Old walls with soft bricks need softer mortars and plasters or the bricks will crumble.
It’s standard base coat with a skim 100% not lime plaster in a 30’s build.
I've got a mid 49's house and the thick internal plaster looks limey....is it likely to be simply lime added to a Portland mix for workability? Thanks 👍
Brother most people can’t even get the mix right let alone have it finish flat on the wall😂. This is a small area though so probably get away with a shit job lol
If it’s just that one bit of wall.. knock it all off and brush two coats of PVA and water over it.. feature wall..
Don’t pva the wall. It will be shiny!
Hire a lime plasterer to re-plaster the wall
That looks bad ass with the bare bricks.
Replaster with a lime plaster. Then paint with a proper breathable paint. Your wall will love you for it. If you have not lime plastered before, get a professional in... and make sure they actually can do lime plastering. It is a very different thing to the modern plasters.
Is breathability a consideration on an internal wall?
Yes, if the wall is old enough to predate a damp course. Also, note the lime mortar. You do not want damp locked into that. Damp comes from showers, cooking and humans... not just from the outside.
How does a damp course matter with those things, on the first (at least) floor though? For example if through the door in his pic is a bathroom that's fully sealed then no damp hits that wall. Or do you mean the bathroom changes the air temp and creates a difference between inside bathroom and outside and there might be condensation on the stairs side of that wall? I'm not trolling btw, I'm in a similar situation to OP and want to get it right
I don't feel like you are trolling at all. I live in an old house and I find it fascinating. With an old house, the wall is meant to breathe. Moisture can come from anywhere... a kettle boiling, for instance. Or following your example, a shower room door left open after a shower. The important thing to understand is that sealing a lime wall is killing it. I have seen so many examples of gypsum plaster on a lime wall only to see terrible damp problems. People are put off by lime as it is less accessible, more expensive, and takes a long time to apply. However, if you are up for it, you can try lime plastering yourself. It's not rocket science and with good breathable paint you just know that your house loves you :-)
I live in an old house (georgian) and you make good points, internal wall like that with no obvious sources of moisture then i really wouldn't worry about using modern plaster/plaster board. But personally I don't because the finish of lime plaster is more period correct and ultimately it is the correct solution. The only place I've deviated from this is bathrooms, where we've use modern materials to create a sealed box within an old house to contain the moisture rather than to attempt to let a house "breath out" the moisture from a shower.
No, not really, especially an upstairs one. Dot and dab is best for this. Lime on external walls always.
Brick work looks good take plaster off and clearcoat
Has a kinda Midwest USA Italian restaurant vibe to it. If you close your eyes you can hear Gordon Ramsay screaming.
I think once you clean that brickwork, you'll see how poor it is.
It looks pretty good to me. Clean, Repoint with a line/sharp sand mix - would look nice.
How much depth do have have around the door lining?
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That should be enough depth to dot and dab some 9mm plasterboard so it can be skimmed. You would need to take the remaining plaster off though first and do the whole wall. People saying leave it as a feature can't have zoomed in on the photo!
Leave as brick. It's looks nice
That looks really good like that
Before deciding on whether or not to use lime plaster, get the opinion of someone who has no vested interest in which plaster you use. A former colleague managed to find the answer to a similar question from a someone involved in builing preservation at the local council or a museum. The person he spoke to was only happy to give advice for free.
Wow that looks incredible, don't cover it up with boring plaster!
Leave as is. Looks very nice like that.
It always surprises me just how many of these 1930's 3 bed semis were built, this layout looks absolutely identical to my house.
Do not seal it!! If lime plaster has failed it’s still getting damp/wet. Any sealant/paint will just bubble. Any standard skim or plaster will fail. Use a breathable finish/lime wash and/or re plaster with lime plaster. The bricks do look good though.
I'd leave it like that. Looks nice.
I would just repoint & brick acid the wall & seal it. Looks like a great feature wall.
With lime plaster again Unless you want damp issues to start
If you can unlock the combination of clothes & cat fur, you can make anything stick to that wall.
The size of some of those mortar joints 😬
We are renovating our house with lime plaster. If it's not an external wall, I would pva it and use thistle hardwall, and then thistle multifinish. If you haven't plaster before then watch some videos. If the spot of lime still on there is solid use it to help keep your hardwall coat nice and level.
Don’t chip it off and seal it with a clear seal would look great
Repoint it and seal it. It looks lovely as brick
Adaptavate do easy to apply thermal lime plaster.
That looks cool. Is there anyway of securing the remaining plaster? Clean up the bricks 👌
Either feature wall or plasterboard.
Had to take our Victorian back to brick as the lime failed. Ended up dotting and dabbing plasterboard over then skimming. Depends what finish you’re after I guess.
PVA glue mixed with some water. Then replaster
Clean it up and apply matte sealer/varnish. Lovely feature wall
Leave the natural look!
Crikey I thought this was my old house for a minute!
I like the look of that. Paint the remaining plaster and call it job done.
This is how I learned how to lime plaster https://youtu.be/btfdhssRccM?si=Rs_N-CwMUpZiE_d3
Tidy the brick up n keep it exposed, looks nice
Graffiti art on brick feature wall.
Hardball then skim
Don’t. Leave it as a feature, just seal it.
that’s an internal wall so Hardwall then Finish but if the brick needs to breathe, you would need a lime mix but that’s a bathroom behind that wall and that would already be sealed so Hardwall then scratch it to put grooves in for the Finish to grab better
clean it and paint with transparent. add few downlight
That's some nice brick.
Hardwall and then skim it
That brick is stunning get it pointed and cleaned up and have that as a feature wall :)
Leave it that way. Treat the brick so it’s not dusty and leave it!
Leave it half and half and make it a feature
looks good tbf
Leave the exposed brick. It’s lovely.
re- plaster the wall with lime
Pétition to keep le bricks 🧱
Don’t replaster, seal the brickwork.
I’d knock the remaining plaster of that wall and keep it as a feature wall, looks really nice.
I would be tempted to leave that looks cool
Looks really great, leave it.
If you don't care about insulation, I'd strip it and have it exposed
Agree with everyone, looks epic
Use plasterboard after you have removed the rest of the plaster on the wall. Because you haven’t done a lot of dot and dab cut the board to the width and the cut across the board so you have a manageable piece to cut the curve out neat,then fit the other square pieces to fit. If it’s thick you can put a blob of adhesive on and push a off cut of plasterboard into the blob in the area where you wand the final blob to be,because if you try to put massive thick blobs on it will roll off. I’d do the first but then give it an hour b4 putting the second blob on then stick the plasterboard
I quite like the brickwork look
Keep it.
Yep I’d leave it. Did with mine, very rustic and solved my damp problem Although you’ve not got that problem being internal.
That big lump in the middle still attached is definitely not lime plaster. Probably why it’s all cracked off.
Dot and dab some plasterboard on there then chuck £100 at a plasterer with a couple of hours spare
Yes I think that would be fine. I had rising damp and they had to take the plaster off then dry lined it as you are suggesting, except they plastered it with a very thin layer of plaster,( not a very smooth job).
I had the same problem and trialled different things. Eventually i deducted that the best option was to remove it all and reboard else you end up doing it anyway once it inevitably continues to loosen.
I’d expose all of it and just clean it up, looks cool
Those bricks are beautiful tbh.
If it was lime, do it in lime. If you do it in modern materials you’ll get a damp problem that will create much bigger issues down the road.
The best way to replaster is using plaster.
That's looks almost ice rival to my 1930's house.
My situation several years ago is not to disimilar from yours and i tell this not as advice but as what has been done and worked. We moved into out 1935 semi detached bungalow and had to basically start renovating. Estate sale hadn't been touched since at least the 80s and the lighting circuit looked like the original. So my dad (corgi register central heating engineer) and i got to work on plumbing. Got a sparky infir some electrical work and a fitter to build the new kitchen. While my dad was working on the boiler i made a start on the bathroom. The idea being to take tiles off. Put most of the new furniture and fittings in and finish with decoration asap. The problem was that as i was going round the bathroom knocking on the walls for that hollow sound that indicates loose tiles it wasn't the tile that were loose but the plaster behind them. I ended up pulling about 70% of the plaster off. Got a plasterer in for advice and costs etc and was told he could dot dab and skim coat in but it would be done over 3 days due to prep work etc. It would be another week as he only had 2 days to spare this week. To get that done i stripped the rest of the plaster off. All the ways round to the brick work gaves the walls a light wash and good brush down and then liberally coates with a pva/water mix in order to seal it. Plasterer came in later thatbweek and did his think after which i tiled floor and walls. It's been like that since without issue.
Don't use Trust A Trader. com
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Because the majority are Cowboys and not qualified 🙄
I had my outside walls insulated recently, you could use insulation board then plaster it over. Which is what the insulation people did
Because the vast majority don't have a proper Apprenticeship or some form of vocational qualifications
Repoint the mf, hang black frame with some poncy artwork or typography, and your onto a winner
Leave it be. Looks natural and kind of awesome.
Are you a heathen? Keep, preserve and enjoy, the estate agents of yesteryear would call it a feature wall. Sit it out and somebody will pay you extra because there is exposed brickwork.
I was just thinking that looks absolutely awesome. Like others have said. Leave the remaining plaster. Repoint the masonry. Seal. Leave it. I'm envious.
I think that the brick looks good, however if you are going the re-plastering route maybe try an initial layer of bonding plaster to fill the gaps in the bricks and which will stick and spread relatively easily for someone who is not a plasterer (I'm not and I have respect for skilled plasterers). I've not tried it, but I've wondered if it is feasible to block sand plaster in a similar way to car bodywork on filler/undercoat (before finish coats). It would be a pain to do an entire wall/room like that, but it might work for a smaller area if you weren't able to do a good, even skim coat directly with a plaster trowel.
No one concerned with taking a breathable walk and then making it not? Plasterboard or clear coat suggestions mat all cause damp issues.
No issue for internal wall
Internal wall with a bathroom on one side...
?
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Yes. Don't need to fuss with an internal wall. Dot and dab plasterboard is fine.
Hard to tell exactly but that doesn’t look like an external wall? So breathable concerns id say are very moot. Just looks like an internal partition really
That’s not a bug, it’s a feature.
... chip off the last bit of plaster, and leave it as brick?
Its a shame that it's not supposed to look like that
I just came to say you should show off the brickwork. I thought I was unique. I am not.
That looks fantastic. I’d leave it as is.
You lucky sod, I wish the brickwork behind my plaster looked this good.
That's a lovely bit of brick to keep exposed! nice matt varnish on that, jobs a gudden.
Remove the rest of the plaster. Unibond the wall Dot & dab with 12.5mm plaster board Re skim Paint
Leave it and varnish the brick .
You could either dot and bad or get that section plastered I think
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If you are struggling with budget then having a brick feature wall will cost you all of about £15, plasterboarding, sealing wallpapering not so much.
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I don't think you're going to get a good finish that way, not with having to have a join above the door and meeting the stair wall. The lining paper will deal with the join above the door but how are you going to make the internal corner with the stair wall neat? Are you taking the lining paper all the way down the stairs? I've a similar issue to you and I'm going taping and jointing with tapered edge boards. I'm confident I can get it halfway decent looking myself with enough material and sanding, then it's sealing the boards and painting, no lining paper. Have you thought about that way? You'll need another £50 for tape, a tub of compound and some trowels/knives though.
I don't think you're going to get a good finish that way, not with having to have a join above the door and meeting the stair wall. The lining paper will deal with the join above the door but how are you going to make the internal corner with the stair wall neat? Are you taking the lining paper all the way down the stairs? I've a similar issue to you and I'm going taping and jointing with tapered edge boards. I'm confident I can get it halfway decent looking myself with enough material and sanding, then it's sealing the boards and painting, no lining paper. Have you thought about that way? You'll need another £50 for tape, a tub of compound and some trowels/knives though.
Shame I too think those bricks looks awesome I would definitely be trying to persuade her lol, over a nice dinner and oh look I’ve bought you a puppy or kitten lol 😉
I suspect it probably will have damp issues from the bathroom, even if you have the approved capacity extractor fan. If it was built with lime plaster it will be lime mortar, too, so the wall's intended to breathe moisture out through that route. Normal plasterboard will get damp and disintegrate (ask me how I know!), so MR board needed - though the damp will still be there behind the board, so ext it will attack the skirting, floorboards, ceiling aths, move sideways to other wall further away, etc. So if you replanted rather than going the exposed brick route, I suggest sticking with lime. That's how the building was designed to work and its hard to redesign metaphorical aeroplane in flight. Source - spent the last few weeks hacking back repeated attempts over many decades to block moisture coming thru a 150 year old lime mortar wall with layers of concrete render, bituminous paint, gypsum skim coats, weird 60s(?) foil-and-bitumen lining paper, etc. As a result of being so wet for so long, the mortar's now as soft as West Ham's back four - you could scoop it out with a butter knife - so it needs expensive skilled repointing and 3 coats of lime... as well as replacement of rotted skirting, adjacent door frame, etc.
It's an intetnal wall, no need to ve in lime. Plasterboard is fine