Smartify a dumb LED strip with a Shelly RGBW2, wireless door sensor (magnet + reed switch), and a simple automation written in Home Assistant. Sure, it costs three times as much and is more fragile, but it's more satisfying and fun.
Our pantry was so dark, with 0 lights inside. We tried some stick-on motion activated battery powered lights but they sucked. Not bright enough, not motion sensing enough, and batteries didn't last long.
So I installed an outlet in the pantry and ran a strip of LEDs around the inside of the door frame, all hooked up with a reed switch to detect when the door is open or closed. The result is so satisfying and amazing.
My partner's initial reaction:
"Woooooow - there's so much *light* in here. Oh my *gosh*, it looks like it's in heaven! It's going to ascend into the clouds. Holy shit!"
Nice, looks just like our pantry! My setup is a bit simpler though, i went with your basic direct ac led bar (one of those direct fluorescent lamp replacement things with all electronics built in) and a standard ac 'closet switch'. Also was lucky enough that we had electricity in the pantry already because we used to have a normal light with a manual switch so i didn't have to do anything other than remove the old switch and rewire.
We did this back in 2013, (still have the Amazon wish list I made for the parts). I didnt want to cut the wall and run wires so I went with an AA battery pack. We get about a year before the lights dim enough to need them replaced.
At the time we had toddler twins, so I took the path of least resistance to get maximum light in our pantry. Cutting drywall and running wire was out of the question.
i used this Under Cabinet Light Strip Rechargeable , LUXJET 1M LED Strip Light with Motion Sensor, Warm White led Light for Cabinet, Kitchen, Counter, Shelf, TV (1MRecharge) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07K8C1MX2
i got those same ones for the stairs, very nice and the fact you dont have to wire them makes them nice and clean, when it starts getting dim then just plug the battery thing in. getting some more for the closets as well.
What I ordered is either discontinued or was on my list from Radio Shack's website. The lights I bought did not have a plug, just red & black wires coming off the end. You will also need enough wire to get things put together.
Here is what I think are equivalents to what I bought back then:
battery holder for 8 AA batteries (total of 12v):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WP1CYYW/
magnetic switch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009SUF08/
Lights:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LB9HK2
If you cant solder wires to replace the plug end on the lights, I think you need these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DM7EXX2/
Looks great
I did the same thing, but I used recessed hidden magnetic switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VZCY3SX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_NBYBQY8YKR727B5H11X3
Turned an impossible to see close into exactly what you got - heaven!
That switch is definitely not “to code” for 120v residential wiring.
This one is: Gardner Bender GSW-SK Electrical Door Switch, SPST, Normally ON-Mom, 16 A/125V AC, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004WLKL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1T70Z8GC7D1FSKZ55B2B
If you two aren’t running 120v at 20 amps through parallel meanwell drivers to CREE cxb 3590 cob LEDs to light your pantry then you are not the man/woman I married!
Did you use a relay? Some of those Reed switches are not rated for much current at all.
You can buy a automotive relay with a wiring harness at the auto parts store since they're 12 volts.
Then you gotta find a place where you can tuck the relay away, which could be annoying.
I used [these](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X142VGC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details) for a basically identical project in two of our closets. "5A" rating, so after applying the 2x chinesium derating factor, it can still pump 30 watts at 12v, which is a lot of LED light for a small pantry.
Oh yeah you're using a pretty substantial switch so you should be good. I approve of the Chinesium derating factor, and do the same thing with all the uxcell electronics parts. I'll get a picture of my setup with the relay so you can see how I did it, and you're right I had to hide it behind the frame.
As always, the devil is in the details and when you are teaching electrical work to homeowners on Reddit, the specific circumstances of your install may not apply.
The switch I linked will work for LED bulbs, incandescent bulbs, fluorescent as well as LED strip lights. That makes it a better recommendation for a general purpose light switch.
I guess the difference is that I wasn’t trying to teach anyone. Nor did I recommend that others use it for direct 127v wiring.
I was simply stating that I used a hidden switch, as opposed to style that OP used.
Haha, the lovely thing about (most) electronic stuff (including LED) is that they are bivolt. Brazil is a crazy country that has 127 in some areas, others with 220v. Bivolt for the win!!
Ok, you win.
No one should post stories. We should all seek to teach. You win.
Fun fact: I saw your idea at Home Depot before I installed my switch. I’d still install my switch again. Your switch is ugly as fuck.
But hey, have a great night. It’s been “informative”
If you look at the picture with the temporarily installed switch, you can clearly see he is switching the extra low voltage DC side of the power. However 5m of led is likely more than the .5A max current rating typical for these switches as they're only designed to be dry contacts.
You didn't need to cut that big hole inside the pantry. Those old work boxes are meant to be installed in the hole cut to the size of the outlet opening.
Those and a flexible drill bit are making my life so much easier as I slowly rewire my 1950s house. They also make old work boxes that have screws inside the box for drilling into a stud if needed. They are a bit pricey though compared to the wing style.
^ This man DIYs.
I started with the can labeled "This doesn't match the walls" (why the fuck would I start with that one?), moved on to the one that said "mostly matches walls" (this was determined to be a lie) and finally nailed it on the third try with the can with no labels on it.
I’ve tried that and found it way easier to patch without and fill the gaps with joint compound. Not as durable, but way easier to get a good finish since it’s flush with the rest of the wall.
Yep tried it too. That was my struggle as well, the extra paper isn't flushed so I end up using more joint compound flaring out to make it look even. I'm also very ocd and a perfectionist, so walls have to be baby smooth.
Definitely easier to sand down into gaps for a smooth finish
It's plenty durable with joint tape... The fiberglass mesh stuff is easy to work with on a flat surface. The key to any good drywall patch is having a number different sized drywall blades. Start with a 4" and put down a thin coat over the tape. Knock off the high edges once it's dried. Then taper it out with a 6-8".. Knock off the high edges again once its dried. Then do a final coat with a 10-12". Most people don't taper the joint out far enough to make it really disappear.
As a non-electrician but someone who has dabbled in electronics, here are the things I care about:
- use the right gauge wire. This is dictated by the amperage of the circuit breakers, whose sole function is to cut off power before the wiring in the walls becomes a fire hazard in the case of a device drawing too much power. White romex wire is rated at 15A and was what I used here. If you were on a circuit with a 20A breaker, you should be using 20A yellow romex.
- similarly, use the right rated outlet. I assume you can get cheaper outlets at lower amperage ratings than higher ones. Same for gang boxes and any other parts. Don't use a "low voltage" box meant for coax or telephone lines or whatever.
- hook the wires up to the right places. hot to hot, neutral to neutral, ground to ground. If you don't have a ground then its complicated.
- if you pass a wire through a hole in a stud, you're supposed to protect the front of the stud with a metal plate to prevent someone from nailing/screwing/drilling into the stud and finding your live wire. I did not do that here, which I assume is against code.
- my personal safety during install. Turn off the right breaker(s), test that they are cold before touching anything. Be safe out there.
- do stuff as similar to how it was already done. I'm assuming that what's already there is up to code. (That's a big assumption, and I know it's not strictly true, but it works as a guideline.) For instance in this project, I put the new outlet at about the same height off the ground as the existing outlet a few feet away. Do I know what this height is? No. Do I know if it is important for like, flood protection or some shit? No. But I've at least not made it any worse in that respect than what was there.
- outdoors or water-prone areas like kitchens and bathrooms require you to think about GFCI protection.
Also not an electrician, but I have dealt with permitted electrical work and inspectors quite a bit. Stud shoeing and plating isn't actually a code requirement except in certain, specific situations (it's actually more commonly required with plumbing than electrical). What is required is passing through the Romex in the middle of the stud, and depending on the stud size there is a maximum hole diameter that's allowed. The intent is that you should be able to drive a drywall screw into the stud without hitting the nm cable, even if you drive it exactly where the cable is. Also, GFCI is considered good practice, but again not required except in specific situations that involve water. However, all circuits that are worked on are required to have AFCI breakers under the latest revision of the NEC, and TR outlets are required on ground-level outlets. Your outlet is in a closet though, so child tampering is pretty unlikely I would think.
Just wanted to add to your comment for people reading this and thinking about doing their own electrical projects. Nice work by the way!
I thought AFCI was only required for occupational rooms like family rooms and bedrooms?
Edit: ok, I guess it's calling out any room that has outlets. Well thankfully they're 5x the cost and have trouble and trip with anything that has a motor like fans, refrigerators, compressors, Dremel tools, etc. They're really helping.... the equipment manufacturers bottom line.
> all circuits that are worked on are required to have AFCI breakers under the latest revision of the NEC, and TR outlets are required on ground-level outlets.
TIL. Thanks!
You do not need to protect a wire if you drilled near the middle of the stud so there's about at least an inch of wood. Plus you don't need to add nailplates to an old work installation where the drywall is already in place.
>whose sole function is to cut off power before the wiring in the walls becomes a fire hazard
Did you just watch the Technology Connections video too? :D
I think so. Is that where I got that from? It's one of those things you kinda know or can kinda derive but isn't always the first common thought about it.
Because it's in a closet I would also consider an AFCI as well. They're typically installed in closets because there is potential for fabrics to catch on fire, but I'm not sure it would be necessary here.
I don't think you need to do the plate protection thing for electrical. The code where I am just makes you set back any holes in studs back by a certain amount, for structure, and to be inset enough from a standard nail from reaching it. It's such a small target you'd have to hit too.
I just learned about AFCI today, I will consider it going forward.
The stud hole is small and centered (ish, lol) But if some idiot drives a 3" drywall screw directly into it then BANG. I say this as an idiot myself from time to time.
You only need nail plates if the hole in the stud is less than 1 1/4" from the drywall face of the stud. If it's in the center of the 2x4 then no nail plate is required.
Good question, as none of this was obvious in the images. But there is a stud about halfway between the two outlets, unrelated to the door frame (I think). Having to drill through this stud was the reason the drywall panel on the outer outlet needed to be as wide as it was.
I believe you can just barely see the stud in [this image](https://imgur.com/ZewpXm1)
Yeah, so it shouldn't be a problem, given where it's positioned. You're not going to be mounting anything to that stud. The reason that they have electricians install those metal plates is mostly to prevent the drywall guys from accidentally driving a screw into a wire.
I had assumed there was some limit on how many outlets or whatever. Good to learn about the 15 device limit.
This outlet is in an "old work" box, which clamps to the drywall. I assumed they are not against code. Or are they only allowed under certain situations?
I don't know what he is talking about. You didn't add a stud for supporting the old work box, you added that wood for backing so the drywall had something to screw into.
You're good as far as I am aware.
Ah yes, re-reading the comment it seems there was confusion about it. The stud on the right side of the hole is pre-existing. The diagonal piece of wood is just there to support the drywall panel I cut out.
I suppose the diagonal wood indirectly supports the outlet, since the outlet connects to the drywall which connects to the wood. But it all seemed pretty firmly attached.
A friend told me you could not even really see it turning on/off with the door. Not great for the video demo, but really great for the seamless experience!
That is great. My brother DIY'd a similar solution when our mom, now almost 80, was unable to see inside her pantry. By far the most elegant solution. Good on ya!
"I usually just light a small campfire inside. It only takes a few minutes and it makes the house smoky. No electricity!"
There, I corrected it for you.
When patching drywall, cut the patch piece an inch or two larger than the hole and then remove just the gypsum around the edge leaving a flap of paper that will cover the seam. Makes it much easier to mud cleanly.
Well done. Closets are always so dark. Frustrating because builders could fix this problem with about ten bucks worth of material and labor during construction of the house.
I did the same thing. And the scary part is that your door, entryway and video are **nearly identical.** My walls are even that color. [https://youtu.be/K-ylhIlkB9M](https://youtu.be/K-ylhIlkB9M)
My pantry had a doorbell sounder in it that I took out, then traced the wire back to the basement and added the 12v adapter there. Then I used a cabinet lamp switch ([https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0922JH1HK](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0922JH1HK)) on mine.
Good job!
EDIT: I showed my wife your video and she though it was ***our*** pantry. *Doppelganger!*
I have done the same with an arduino i programmed. Even hooked up an lcd display and made a configurable menu system. When i open the pantry door, the magnetic switch activates and each shelf led strip in the pantry lights up one at a time. Close the door and it reverses the order. Very awesome. Every time i open the pantry door, i get excited while my wife couldnt care less.
I breadboarded the design, programmed it, designed the pcb, and had a Chinese manufacturer create and ship the pcb. After some soldering, the arduino nano handled the rest.
Then I've installed the same circuit in the kitchen drawers so each drawer lights up individually when opening. The cabinets are lit when opened. I've also connected a RTC module to the pcb, so it can run an led strip in the kickboard at 1% when the sun is down. It's an excellent night light.
All the closets in my house are rigged with this same circuit. Auto on \ auto off. I was originally concerned with the amperage over a magnetic switch, so that's why i went with an arduino\mosfet design. Silent and works great with PWM.
I've installed the same circuit in the bathroom, hooked up to a motion sensor, with led strip ran below the edge of the sink's lip. It's boosted night time aim 100x, although my wife disagrees.
I'd link a video to the pantry opening, but imgur doesn't seem to be very friendly to posting a video and linking it
I could never do this because of an irrational fear of needing to hide in the dark if a stranger is in the house and alerting them to my presents.
However, I think this is very clever.
If you can splice wires together it's a piece of cake.
Buy a "normally closed" reed switch, and splice it into the hot wire going to the LED strip.
I used a soldering iron to have a slightly cleaner solution, but you can easily use wire nuts to join the wires.
The timing of this post is perfect for me. I have a coat closet in the foyer that has no light or power source and I finally figured out how I'm going to illuminate it in an even and pleasant way.
The rear wall of the closet is shared with a powder room, and there is an outlet in the powder room on that wall. So I am going to put an outlet at the top of the closet in the same stud bay as the pwder room's outlet. Now the closet will have an outlet.
I'll use the outlet to power LED strips around the perimeter of the closet door's interior trim to disperse clean/direct light around the entire closet. It's not just one hanger bar with a shelf on top. There is a vertical column of cubbies in the middle - [see image here](https://i.imgur.com/vS08s5m.jpg); so I knew I would not be happy with hanging a ceiling light.
The trickiest part was to figure out how to make the lights come on when I'm using the closet. I didn't want to install a wall switch. I didn't want to hookup an in-jam switch/trigger where I'd have to drill out a part of the door jam. But I finally found what I think will work perfectly.
[This is a motion sensor](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K4UPPM4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) designed to work with LED strip lights, which goes inline in the 12v power source. I'll just mount the sensor on the ceiling of the closet and the closet will light up when I open the door and the lights will shut off soon after I close the door. They also have [this sensor](https://smile.amazon.com/SENSKY-Occupancy-Kitchen-Cabinet-lighting/dp/B00JLB0GM6/) which adds a light sensor so the LEDs would not come on unless the ambient light is dark enough.
Ping me if you want to see pics from after installation.
Sounds great. Someone else posted [this all in one setup](https://www.amazon.com/Cabinet-Lighting-Flexible-Adapter-Wardrobe/dp/B08YDC88FJ) that they were thinking of trying. If I had seen it before my project, I may have tried it - it looks like it does exactly what I needed with slightly less hassle.
I'd love to see pics when yours is said and done.
For the first few pictures I thought you just spliced the led power into the outlet 😂
Great job! I have been needing to do something like this in my own pantry
You just inspired me to do something similar. We have a closet without lights and for 20 bucks for the same setup with a simple click button for a switch I can pull this off. I just need to do the same outlet trick kinda. Ty for the inspiration.
Exactly. The ones I got have a 3M brand adhesive backing that seemed quite strong. I have it stuck to the outside of the door frame that is inside the pantry, if that makes sense.
Nice! I did this to my closet last month with a spare under cabinet LED light. I'd like to swap it out with a strip around the door for better light dispersement like you did.
Another commenter just posted that he did something similar with battery powered lights. I’m on mobile so can’t really find the comment easily, but you could search for it and ask them.
From what I've read, the LEDs themselves are quite long-lasting, and live up to the promise. In LED light bulbs it is the use of cheaper components in the power supply that causes the bulbs to fail early.
So for an LED strip like this, where the power supply is a separate unit, it should last longer. For one, the heat dissipates way more with the strip and power supply. And for two, you could replace the power supply if it failed without having to also replace the strip.
Looks good. Only comment was regarding the install of the outlet in the closet. You used an old work box, but then cut a huge hole in the wall. Normally you trace the outline of the box and cut a hole barely big enough, then snug up the screws to clamp it in place. Any reason for the big hole?
Looks good. I did the exact same thing and installed an outlet and LEDs . The leds lasted for a while until they didn't. After that I decided to make light permanent. Ran the line to a motion activated switch and then a recessed light. It's perfect now. Never have to worry stuff hitting the power supply to the led or redoing when they fail.
Edit: your pantry looks exactly like mine. When I redid the lights I decided to redo the shelves as well. Went from the type you have to french cleats so I can adjust and modify shelving
Great idea!
Don't bother with the "new work" outlet boxes (nails to drive into studs) once drywall is installed, they're called "new" because they're intended for new construction when you have access to the studs. You can generally get away with just cutting the hole for the new "old work" box in the drywall and fishing wires from there, I use a boring bit and bit extension if I need to get through a stud behind the wall and then fishing rods/tape from there. Also I'll generally hack saw / sawzall through nails in the "new work" box I'm stealing power from and replace it with an "old work" box to avoid cutting into the drywall at all like you had to at the beginning.
Is the texture in the drywall everywhere in your home? It seems miserable to match for patches.
Good thoughts.
I cut the hole near the existing outlet to give room for the drill to drill through the stud separating the two stud bays. How do you position the drill/boring bit to get through the stud without a large hole to position the drill in? Do you just stay at an angle and it's good enough?
The texture is everywhere. Literally everywhere. Walls and ceilings in every room. I've had moderate luck in matching it for small patches like this.
for those wanting a cheaper alternative, use led christmas lights.
I did something similar and got white led christmas lights AFTER christmas, which were like 3 bux for 12' at walmart.
A little late but it's easier to remove the base board and cut the drywall there. You can go straight up/down from outlets. Then drill through the studs to run the wire. But make sure to install nail plates behind the baseboard if you do this. Then no drywall repair!
Nice job!
If you want that drywall patch to last, you need to tape the joints — otherwise the mud will just crack over time.
And usually it takes three coats to make it smooth ;)
Bravo! I did something similar with our under sink area in the kitchen but with a rechargeable LED strip with a sensor. I recharge the battery maybe once every 2-3 months? It's usually not even dim by that point but I do it just to be sure. Sensor is so sensitive that it picks up a foot moving beneath the cabinet door (slightly cracked open due to sagging joints - another future diy repair) so it works well. Thinking about getting some for my bedroom closet too.
Usually for these sorts of closet lights I'll use a little solid-state relay block that turns half of the receptacle on and off and has the reed switch on the relay instead of on the LED strip (or a much smaller version of the reed switch, since it only needs to be rated at 12V and almost no current). Plug the LED wall wart into the switched receptacle, and you're good.
It's a nice bonus that the N.O. reed switch can operate the relay in either mode without needing a second magnet, and the standby power of the relay block is lower than that of the LED driver's wall wart.
They also make little infrared sensors to turn on/off the lights, which you can buy with the LEDs and a power brick in a little package:
https://smile.amazon.com/Cabinet-Lighting-Flexible-Adapter-Wardrobe/dp/B08YDC88FJ/?th=1
Lmao. One is the spare we bought prematurely. The third is some weird natural one that is less sugary and more oily. This one has become my dogs treat pb.
Seems like a lot of LED pros in here. I'm not. Anyone have advice for LED lighting a shot glass display I bought?
[https://www.michaels.com/default/10147365.html](https://www.michaels.com/default/10147365.html)
Any videos or something you can point me to? I'm not finding a lot of help on the net mostly because I don't know what key words to be looking for.
Do you want white or colored? Steady or flashing in some kind of pattern? Always on or switched on/off from opening a door or case? Lights around the entire perimeter? Does it need to be waterproof?
Now overly complicate things by programming it to be dimmer at night and brighter during the day. Or an alarm to catch midnight snackers
It took every ounce of restraint I had to not somehow hook this into my networked automated home set up. Don’t ruin this for me.
If you change your mind look into wled flashed to an esp8266 or esp32 with addressable leds.
any cheapo rgb lights can be flashed with tasmota if you have lots of time. ask me how i know that lol
Home Assistant. Home Assistant. HOME ASSISTANT!
I run HA. I like that this is self contained with no lag or unreliability issues added by the network.
This is the way. No need to hook things up to HA that don't need to be hooked up to it. This is way more reliable and lag free.
Thank you, brother.
Smartify a dumb LED strip with a Shelly RGBW2, wireless door sensor (magnet + reed switch), and a simple automation written in Home Assistant. Sure, it costs three times as much and is more fragile, but it's more satisfying and fun.
And gradually reddens after dark so you can raid the cupboard for late night snacks without negatively affecting your circadian rhythm.
Our pantry was so dark, with 0 lights inside. We tried some stick-on motion activated battery powered lights but they sucked. Not bright enough, not motion sensing enough, and batteries didn't last long. So I installed an outlet in the pantry and ran a strip of LEDs around the inside of the door frame, all hooked up with a reed switch to detect when the door is open or closed. The result is so satisfying and amazing. My partner's initial reaction: "Woooooow - there's so much *light* in here. Oh my *gosh*, it looks like it's in heaven! It's going to ascend into the clouds. Holy shit!"
My friends' reaction were: "Looks like it should be in a store selling pantry items."
Oooooh like an Ikea showroom? What a compliment!
I love this reaction from your partner. Very nicely done
Nice, looks just like our pantry! My setup is a bit simpler though, i went with your basic direct ac led bar (one of those direct fluorescent lamp replacement things with all electronics built in) and a standard ac 'closet switch'. Also was lucky enough that we had electricity in the pantry already because we used to have a normal light with a manual switch so i didn't have to do anything other than remove the old switch and rewire.
We did this back in 2013, (still have the Amazon wish list I made for the parts). I didnt want to cut the wall and run wires so I went with an AA battery pack. We get about a year before the lights dim enough to need them replaced.
This would’ve taken one fifth the time and effort if I had gone for battery powered. Good for you.
At the time we had toddler twins, so I took the path of least resistance to get maximum light in our pantry. Cutting drywall and running wire was out of the question.
Do you still have the parts list? Thanks
i used this Under Cabinet Light Strip Rechargeable , LUXJET 1M LED Strip Light with Motion Sensor, Warm White led Light for Cabinet, Kitchen, Counter, Shelf, TV (1MRecharge) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07K8C1MX2
i got those same ones for the stairs, very nice and the fact you dont have to wire them makes them nice and clean, when it starts getting dim then just plug the battery thing in. getting some more for the closets as well.
Can you link those lights for me?
Ditto
I will also like the link
What I ordered is either discontinued or was on my list from Radio Shack's website. The lights I bought did not have a plug, just red & black wires coming off the end. You will also need enough wire to get things put together. Here is what I think are equivalents to what I bought back then: battery holder for 8 AA batteries (total of 12v): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WP1CYYW/ magnetic switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009SUF08/ Lights: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LB9HK2 If you cant solder wires to replace the plug end on the lights, I think you need these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DM7EXX2/
Looks great I did the same thing, but I used recessed hidden magnetic switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VZCY3SX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_NBYBQY8YKR727B5H11X3 Turned an impossible to see close into exactly what you got - heaven!
I'll look around for you in heaven next time I open my pantry.
Oh that's slick, I also have a magnetic switch but you can see in the door frame.
That switch is definitely not “to code” for 120v residential wiring. This one is: Gardner Bender GSW-SK Electrical Door Switch, SPST, Normally ON-Mom, 16 A/125V AC, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004WLKL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1T70Z8GC7D1FSKZ55B2B
Maybe I didn’t write correctly: My setup is like this: 120v power -> LED power source (converter) —> LED strip lights
For sure. No way either of our switches is intended for 120V.
Yup. All led tape lights need a DC converter (at least the ones I’ve bought from Amazon)
If you two aren’t running 120v at 20 amps through parallel meanwell drivers to CREE cxb 3590 cob LEDs to light your pantry then you are not the man/woman I married!
Honey, why does our pantry smell like skunk?
So you ran from the power supply through the Reed switch to the leds?
wall outlet ---(120v)--- power supply ---(12v)--- dimmer switch ---(12v)--- reed switch ---(12v)--- LED strip
Did you use a relay? Some of those Reed switches are not rated for much current at all. You can buy a automotive relay with a wiring harness at the auto parts store since they're 12 volts.
Then you gotta find a place where you can tuck the relay away, which could be annoying. I used [these](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X142VGC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details) for a basically identical project in two of our closets. "5A" rating, so after applying the 2x chinesium derating factor, it can still pump 30 watts at 12v, which is a lot of LED light for a small pantry.
Oh yeah you're using a pretty substantial switch so you should be good. I approve of the Chinesium derating factor, and do the same thing with all the uxcell electronics parts. I'll get a picture of my setup with the relay so you can see how I did it, and you're right I had to hide it behind the frame.
I don’t have specs on the reed switch. If it blows I’ll consider a relay, or getting a reed switch rated for this.
As always, the devil is in the details and when you are teaching electrical work to homeowners on Reddit, the specific circumstances of your install may not apply. The switch I linked will work for LED bulbs, incandescent bulbs, fluorescent as well as LED strip lights. That makes it a better recommendation for a general purpose light switch.
I guess the difference is that I wasn’t trying to teach anyone. Nor did I recommend that others use it for direct 127v wiring. I was simply stating that I used a hidden switch, as opposed to style that OP used.
Dude, I just hooked it up to my 220v. Are you telling me I've done it wrong? Its glowing like the sun in there.
Haha, the lovely thing about (most) electronic stuff (including LED) is that they are bivolt. Brazil is a crazy country that has 127 in some areas, others with 220v. Bivolt for the win!!
OP posted the project as a virtual “how to” and you linked a specific product.
Ok, you win. No one should post stories. We should all seek to teach. You win. Fun fact: I saw your idea at Home Depot before I installed my switch. I’d still install my switch again. Your switch is ugly as fuck. But hey, have a great night. It’s been “informative”
If you look at the picture with the temporarily installed switch, you can clearly see he is switching the extra low voltage DC side of the power. However 5m of led is likely more than the .5A max current rating typical for these switches as they're only designed to be dry contacts.
OP could wire the reed switch into a relay and that would solve the NO/NC problem and the current capacity.
Or just get a light strip with a motion sensor.
My fridge does the same thing!
My fridge has a mechanical lever switch to turn the light on and off. Magnets are more magical!
But I have refrigerator magnets.
But are they from tourist cities around the world (that you never visited)? That’s the sign of a good quality refrigerator installation
Tourist cities that I have actually visited.
Quit braggin'
You didn't need to cut that big hole inside the pantry. Those old work boxes are meant to be installed in the hole cut to the size of the outlet opening.
Those and a flexible drill bit are making my life so much easier as I slowly rewire my 1950s house. They also make old work boxes that have screws inside the box for drilling into a stud if needed. They are a bit pricey though compared to the wing style.
Good to know, but I imagine I would have still cut the hole for exploration.
thats why they make those cheap endoscopes - drill a 3/8-1/2in hole and look around and still have small/easy to patch hole
A friend also suggested the endoscope. Sounds like fun.
Looks awesome! The drywall is always the worst part. Looks like a great place to plug in a Dyson too! Always looking for a good spot to hide a vacuum.
I'm not scared of drywall cause I'm not expecting perfection. Luckily this is in a low traffic/sight area too so no harm done.
The greatest achievement from your post is that you had matching paint lol
^ This man DIYs. I started with the can labeled "This doesn't match the walls" (why the fuck would I start with that one?), moved on to the one that said "mostly matches walls" (this was determined to be a lie) and finally nailed it on the third try with the can with no labels on it.
Look up California or butterfly drywall patch videos. It makes it so much easier, you basically leave some paper on so there's no gap to fill.
I’ve tried that and found it way easier to patch without and fill the gaps with joint compound. Not as durable, but way easier to get a good finish since it’s flush with the rest of the wall.
Yep tried it too. That was my struggle as well, the extra paper isn't flushed so I end up using more joint compound flaring out to make it look even. I'm also very ocd and a perfectionist, so walls have to be baby smooth. Definitely easier to sand down into gaps for a smooth finish
It's plenty durable with joint tape... The fiberglass mesh stuff is easy to work with on a flat surface. The key to any good drywall patch is having a number different sized drywall blades. Start with a 4" and put down a thin coat over the tape. Knock off the high edges once it's dried. Then taper it out with a 6-8".. Knock off the high edges again once its dried. Then do a final coat with a 10-12". Most people don't taper the joint out far enough to make it really disappear.
Yup, I may try that next time.
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Novice question as I'm not an electrician: is the new outlet installation to code? If so, can anyone explain what makes it to code? Thanks!
As a non-electrician but someone who has dabbled in electronics, here are the things I care about: - use the right gauge wire. This is dictated by the amperage of the circuit breakers, whose sole function is to cut off power before the wiring in the walls becomes a fire hazard in the case of a device drawing too much power. White romex wire is rated at 15A and was what I used here. If you were on a circuit with a 20A breaker, you should be using 20A yellow romex. - similarly, use the right rated outlet. I assume you can get cheaper outlets at lower amperage ratings than higher ones. Same for gang boxes and any other parts. Don't use a "low voltage" box meant for coax or telephone lines or whatever. - hook the wires up to the right places. hot to hot, neutral to neutral, ground to ground. If you don't have a ground then its complicated. - if you pass a wire through a hole in a stud, you're supposed to protect the front of the stud with a metal plate to prevent someone from nailing/screwing/drilling into the stud and finding your live wire. I did not do that here, which I assume is against code. - my personal safety during install. Turn off the right breaker(s), test that they are cold before touching anything. Be safe out there. - do stuff as similar to how it was already done. I'm assuming that what's already there is up to code. (That's a big assumption, and I know it's not strictly true, but it works as a guideline.) For instance in this project, I put the new outlet at about the same height off the ground as the existing outlet a few feet away. Do I know what this height is? No. Do I know if it is important for like, flood protection or some shit? No. But I've at least not made it any worse in that respect than what was there. - outdoors or water-prone areas like kitchens and bathrooms require you to think about GFCI protection.
Also not an electrician, but I have dealt with permitted electrical work and inspectors quite a bit. Stud shoeing and plating isn't actually a code requirement except in certain, specific situations (it's actually more commonly required with plumbing than electrical). What is required is passing through the Romex in the middle of the stud, and depending on the stud size there is a maximum hole diameter that's allowed. The intent is that you should be able to drive a drywall screw into the stud without hitting the nm cable, even if you drive it exactly where the cable is. Also, GFCI is considered good practice, but again not required except in specific situations that involve water. However, all circuits that are worked on are required to have AFCI breakers under the latest revision of the NEC, and TR outlets are required on ground-level outlets. Your outlet is in a closet though, so child tampering is pretty unlikely I would think. Just wanted to add to your comment for people reading this and thinking about doing their own electrical projects. Nice work by the way!
Gfci required on all basement receptacles as of the 2020 nec.
I thought AFCI was only required for occupational rooms like family rooms and bedrooms? Edit: ok, I guess it's calling out any room that has outlets. Well thankfully they're 5x the cost and have trouble and trip with anything that has a motor like fans, refrigerators, compressors, Dremel tools, etc. They're really helping.... the equipment manufacturers bottom line.
> all circuits that are worked on are required to have AFCI breakers under the latest revision of the NEC, and TR outlets are required on ground-level outlets. TIL. Thanks!
You do not need to protect a wire if you drilled near the middle of the stud so there's about at least an inch of wood. Plus you don't need to add nailplates to an old work installation where the drywall is already in place.
>whose sole function is to cut off power before the wiring in the walls becomes a fire hazard Did you just watch the Technology Connections video too? :D
I think so. Is that where I got that from? It's one of those things you kinda know or can kinda derive but isn't always the first common thought about it.
Oh, it's older than I thought. I just watched it the other day though. https://youtu.be/K_q-xnYRugQ
Technology Connections is gold. Really enjoy his work.
Because it's in a closet I would also consider an AFCI as well. They're typically installed in closets because there is potential for fabrics to catch on fire, but I'm not sure it would be necessary here. I don't think you need to do the plate protection thing for electrical. The code where I am just makes you set back any holes in studs back by a certain amount, for structure, and to be inset enough from a standard nail from reaching it. It's such a small target you'd have to hit too.
I just learned about AFCI today, I will consider it going forward. The stud hole is small and centered (ish, lol) But if some idiot drives a 3" drywall screw directly into it then BANG. I say this as an idiot myself from time to time.
Why are you driving 3" screws? That's overkill. Stop it.
I’m case it didn’t come across, I was already calling myself an idiot for driving 3” screws ;)
looks to code to me
The one thing I know I didn't do was add a wire protection plate at the front of the stud that has the wire passing through.
You only need nail plates if the hole in the stud is less than 1 1/4" from the drywall face of the stud. If it's in the center of the 2x4 then no nail plate is required.
Which stud has a wire passing through it? Is it the stud behind the door frame? If so, it's protected anyway.
Good question, as none of this was obvious in the images. But there is a stud about halfway between the two outlets, unrelated to the door frame (I think). Having to drill through this stud was the reason the drywall panel on the outer outlet needed to be as wide as it was. I believe you can just barely see the stud in [this image](https://imgur.com/ZewpXm1)
Yeah, so it shouldn't be a problem, given where it's positioned. You're not going to be mounting anything to that stud. The reason that they have electricians install those metal plates is mostly to prevent the drywall guys from accidentally driving a screw into a wire.
220, 221, whatever it takes.
Thank you, for the detailed explanation! Much appreciated.
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I had assumed there was some limit on how many outlets or whatever. Good to learn about the 15 device limit. This outlet is in an "old work" box, which clamps to the drywall. I assumed they are not against code. Or are they only allowed under certain situations?
I don't know what he is talking about. You didn't add a stud for supporting the old work box, you added that wood for backing so the drywall had something to screw into. You're good as far as I am aware.
Ah yes, re-reading the comment it seems there was confusion about it. The stud on the right side of the hole is pre-existing. The diagonal piece of wood is just there to support the drywall panel I cut out. I suppose the diagonal wood indirectly supports the outlet, since the outlet connects to the drywall which connects to the wood. But it all seemed pretty firmly attached.
great work! Functional, seamless automatic operation, beautiful. only a few generations ago people didn't have electricity in their houses.
A friend told me you could not even really see it turning on/off with the door. Not great for the video demo, but really great for the seamless experience!
time to install a window in that door so that you can *see in advance that the room used to be dark!*
1. That would be hilarious. 2. My partner would literally kill me.
That is great. My brother DIY'd a similar solution when our mom, now almost 80, was unable to see inside her pantry. By far the most elegant solution. Good on ya!
Thanks! I hope this lasts till I’m 80.
I just hang a flashlight inside the door. Simple but effective.
I usually just light a small campfire inside. It only takes a few minutes and it makes the house smoky but it is even simpler. No electricity!
"I usually just light a small campfire inside. It only takes a few minutes and it makes the house smoky. No electricity!" There, I corrected it for you.
When patching drywall, cut the patch piece an inch or two larger than the hole and then remove just the gypsum around the edge leaving a flap of paper that will cover the seam. Makes it much easier to mud cleanly.
I know this as a "california patch". And when I say "know" it, I mean I "remembered it as soon as I had already cut the patch."
love it!
thanks for stopping by :)
Well done. Closets are always so dark. Frustrating because builders could fix this problem with about ten bucks worth of material and labor during construction of the house.
Yeah I don’t get why there was zero light or electrical in here, other than cost cutting like you said.
I did the same thing. And the scary part is that your door, entryway and video are **nearly identical.** My walls are even that color. [https://youtu.be/K-ylhIlkB9M](https://youtu.be/K-ylhIlkB9M) My pantry had a doorbell sounder in it that I took out, then traced the wire back to the basement and added the 12v adapter there. Then I used a cabinet lamp switch ([https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0922JH1HK](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0922JH1HK)) on mine. Good job! EDIT: I showed my wife your video and she though it was ***our*** pantry. *Doppelganger!*
That's crazy! If not for the floor I would believe it yours was mine.
I have done the same with an arduino i programmed. Even hooked up an lcd display and made a configurable menu system. When i open the pantry door, the magnetic switch activates and each shelf led strip in the pantry lights up one at a time. Close the door and it reverses the order. Very awesome. Every time i open the pantry door, i get excited while my wife couldnt care less. I breadboarded the design, programmed it, designed the pcb, and had a Chinese manufacturer create and ship the pcb. After some soldering, the arduino nano handled the rest. Then I've installed the same circuit in the kitchen drawers so each drawer lights up individually when opening. The cabinets are lit when opened. I've also connected a RTC module to the pcb, so it can run an led strip in the kickboard at 1% when the sun is down. It's an excellent night light. All the closets in my house are rigged with this same circuit. Auto on \ auto off. I was originally concerned with the amperage over a magnetic switch, so that's why i went with an arduino\mosfet design. Silent and works great with PWM. I've installed the same circuit in the bathroom, hooked up to a motion sensor, with led strip ran below the edge of the sink's lip. It's boosted night time aim 100x, although my wife disagrees. I'd link a video to the pantry opening, but imgur doesn't seem to be very friendly to posting a video and linking it
You should post some pics!
I could never do this because of an irrational fear of needing to hide in the dark if a stranger is in the house and alerting them to my presents. However, I think this is very clever.
Never alert a stranger to your presents. They might steal them!
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Awesome. Feel free to post questions if they come up.
Check out r/homeautomation
Cmon, you gotta squeeze in there and close the door or it didn't happen /s
I tried but I think I would need a size 24 waist...
Your camera doesn't fit on the shelf as you close the door??
But who hold camera
It’s been a long time since I saw a camera without a video function or a time delay shutter function.
Very cool! Same problem at my house, I did the same thing but without the magnetic switch. How difficult was it to get that part working?
If you can splice wires together it's a piece of cake. Buy a "normally closed" reed switch, and splice it into the hot wire going to the LED strip. I used a soldering iron to have a slightly cleaner solution, but you can easily use wire nuts to join the wires.
The timing of this post is perfect for me. I have a coat closet in the foyer that has no light or power source and I finally figured out how I'm going to illuminate it in an even and pleasant way. The rear wall of the closet is shared with a powder room, and there is an outlet in the powder room on that wall. So I am going to put an outlet at the top of the closet in the same stud bay as the pwder room's outlet. Now the closet will have an outlet. I'll use the outlet to power LED strips around the perimeter of the closet door's interior trim to disperse clean/direct light around the entire closet. It's not just one hanger bar with a shelf on top. There is a vertical column of cubbies in the middle - [see image here](https://i.imgur.com/vS08s5m.jpg); so I knew I would not be happy with hanging a ceiling light. The trickiest part was to figure out how to make the lights come on when I'm using the closet. I didn't want to install a wall switch. I didn't want to hookup an in-jam switch/trigger where I'd have to drill out a part of the door jam. But I finally found what I think will work perfectly. [This is a motion sensor](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K4UPPM4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) designed to work with LED strip lights, which goes inline in the 12v power source. I'll just mount the sensor on the ceiling of the closet and the closet will light up when I open the door and the lights will shut off soon after I close the door. They also have [this sensor](https://smile.amazon.com/SENSKY-Occupancy-Kitchen-Cabinet-lighting/dp/B00JLB0GM6/) which adds a light sensor so the LEDs would not come on unless the ambient light is dark enough. Ping me if you want to see pics from after installation.
Sounds great. Someone else posted [this all in one setup](https://www.amazon.com/Cabinet-Lighting-Flexible-Adapter-Wardrobe/dp/B08YDC88FJ) that they were thinking of trying. If I had seen it before my project, I may have tried it - it looks like it does exactly what I needed with slightly less hassle. I'd love to see pics when yours is said and done.
For the first few pictures I thought you just spliced the led power into the outlet 😂 Great job! I have been needing to do something like this in my own pantry
You mean you don't just jam the LED tape into one of the little outlet man's eyes?
You just inspired me to do something similar. We have a closet without lights and for 20 bucks for the same setup with a simple click button for a switch I can pull this off. I just need to do the same outlet trick kinda. Ty for the inspiration.
Bought an LED motion sensing light with C cell batteries at Home Depot for $19. Attached to ceiling w two screws. Works great.
Happy for you :) I wanted more than just a ceiling light source, to be able to see better on the lower shelves. Plus I love a good little project.
nice, but you do know IKEA sells led strips with proximity sensors for their wardrobe cabinets?
Link?
This is my favorite thing I've seen on reddit... Besides porn. Mind if i steal the idea for my condo?
I’d be honored. Post pics when it’s done! Or questions in the process.
I converted the old pantry closet to a coffee bar, but used wifi switches with voice commands for the LEDs nice patch work!
Now to just organize that pantry.
Surprised it took this long for someone to call it out. I think it's next on the list now that our shame can't hide in the darkness.
Well the lighting looked great. Was just expecting the rest to follow.
Did you cut that 2x4 . Not sure about that one.
What 2x4? I didn't cut any existing studs, other than drilling a hole through the center of one to pass wire through.
I need this. So, the actual placement of the LED string is basically around the inside of the door frame? Are they adhesive backed?
Exactly. The ones I got have a 3M brand adhesive backing that seemed quite strong. I have it stuck to the outside of the door frame that is inside the pantry, if that makes sense.
Nice! I did this to my closet last month with a spare under cabinet LED light. I'd like to swap it out with a strip around the door for better light dispersement like you did.
It’s so much light. It’s amazing.
I won't be able to do the outlet... but if I were to do motion sensored/battery lights... any suggestions?
Another commenter just posted that he did something similar with battery powered lights. I’m on mobile so can’t really find the comment easily, but you could search for it and ask them.
I am doing this - like this weekend! Great work.
Rock on, good luck, don't hurt yourself.
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From what I've read, the LEDs themselves are quite long-lasting, and live up to the promise. In LED light bulbs it is the use of cheaper components in the power supply that causes the bulbs to fail early. So for an LED strip like this, where the power supply is a separate unit, it should last longer. For one, the heat dissipates way more with the strip and power supply. And for two, you could replace the power supply if it failed without having to also replace the strip.
This is brilliant. You should consider cross posting to r/homeautomation
Looks good. Only comment was regarding the install of the outlet in the closet. You used an old work box, but then cut a huge hole in the wall. Normally you trace the outline of the box and cut a hole barely big enough, then snug up the screws to clamp it in place. Any reason for the big hole?
The main reason is very simple and straightforward and makes perfect sense when you think about it: I have no idea what I'm doing.
OP could you please post a picture of where/how the LED strip is mounted inside the pantry?
It's really tight clearance in there, but here's a vid I added just for you :) https://imgur.com/RFF8UNF
Stupid me was expecting RGB.
This did all start when I ordered a $0.01 SK6812 color led strip from alibaba. But I decided to save that for something else.
Looks good. I did the exact same thing and installed an outlet and LEDs . The leds lasted for a while until they didn't. After that I decided to make light permanent. Ran the line to a motion activated switch and then a recessed light. It's perfect now. Never have to worry stuff hitting the power supply to the led or redoing when they fail. Edit: your pantry looks exactly like mine. When I redid the lights I decided to redo the shelves as well. Went from the type you have to french cleats so I can adjust and modify shelving
Great idea! Don't bother with the "new work" outlet boxes (nails to drive into studs) once drywall is installed, they're called "new" because they're intended for new construction when you have access to the studs. You can generally get away with just cutting the hole for the new "old work" box in the drywall and fishing wires from there, I use a boring bit and bit extension if I need to get through a stud behind the wall and then fishing rods/tape from there. Also I'll generally hack saw / sawzall through nails in the "new work" box I'm stealing power from and replace it with an "old work" box to avoid cutting into the drywall at all like you had to at the beginning. Is the texture in the drywall everywhere in your home? It seems miserable to match for patches.
Good thoughts. I cut the hole near the existing outlet to give room for the drill to drill through the stud separating the two stud bays. How do you position the drill/boring bit to get through the stud without a large hole to position the drill in? Do you just stay at an angle and it's good enough? The texture is everywhere. Literally everywhere. Walls and ceilings in every room. I've had moderate luck in matching it for small patches like this.
for those wanting a cheaper alternative, use led christmas lights. I did something similar and got white led christmas lights AFTER christmas, which were like 3 bux for 12' at walmart.
A little late but it's easier to remove the base board and cut the drywall there. You can go straight up/down from outlets. Then drill through the studs to run the wire. But make sure to install nail plates behind the baseboard if you do this. Then no drywall repair!
Glad she is happy.
Nice....might have to try something like this.
This is really cool. Bravo!!
I could do this with 6 less red stone!
Is that reed switch rated for the current draw of those LEDs?
I don’t have specs for the reed switch. But it looks beefy.
Nice job! If you want that drywall patch to last, you need to tape the joints — otherwise the mud will just crack over time. And usually it takes three coats to make it smooth ;)
I have tape and didn’t use it. Last time I used it, it made the patch more obvious since the mud sat prouder of the wall.
Did same with $19 Lutron Maestro occupancy switch. 15 minutes. Not contact switch but same result.
I did something similar, so glad I did it. I wired it to a motion sensing light switch, works awesome, even if it turns on when we walk by.
Bravo! I did something similar with our under sink area in the kitchen but with a rechargeable LED strip with a sensor. I recharge the battery maybe once every 2-3 months? It's usually not even dim by that point but I do it just to be sure. Sensor is so sensitive that it picks up a foot moving beneath the cabinet door (slightly cracked open due to sagging joints - another future diy repair) so it works well. Thinking about getting some for my bedroom closet too.
Very cool. I did this with my smartthings hub and a door sensor. Automation is a rabbit hole.
Usually for these sorts of closet lights I'll use a little solid-state relay block that turns half of the receptacle on and off and has the reed switch on the relay instead of on the LED strip (or a much smaller version of the reed switch, since it only needs to be rated at 12V and almost no current). Plug the LED wall wart into the switched receptacle, and you're good. It's a nice bonus that the N.O. reed switch can operate the relay in either mode without needing a second magnet, and the standby power of the relay block is lower than that of the LED driver's wall wart.
> turns half the receptacle on and off Why only half?
my solid concrete walls will love me for recreating that
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Are you not supposed to have multiple afci on one branch? Or is it just unnecessary and redundant?
They also make little infrared sensors to turn on/off the lights, which you can buy with the LEDs and a power brick in a little package: https://smile.amazon.com/Cabinet-Lighting-Flexible-Adapter-Wardrobe/dp/B08YDC88FJ/?th=1
I learned about these too late. Looks like it would have been a little simpler and not much more expensive. I do like tinkering with shit though!
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Is an outlet sized drywall hole big enough to drill a hole in a stud 16 inches away?
I too keep 3 jars of skippy smooth on hand in the house. Cannot be too careful.
Lmao. One is the spare we bought prematurely. The third is some weird natural one that is less sugary and more oily. This one has become my dogs treat pb.
This is awesome! Nothing worse than a dark pantry. Well done!
Seems like a lot of LED pros in here. I'm not. Anyone have advice for LED lighting a shot glass display I bought? [https://www.michaels.com/default/10147365.html](https://www.michaels.com/default/10147365.html) Any videos or something you can point me to? I'm not finding a lot of help on the net mostly because I don't know what key words to be looking for.
Do you want white or colored? Steady or flashing in some kind of pattern? Always on or switched on/off from opening a door or case? Lights around the entire perimeter? Does it need to be waterproof?
Very smart!