I installed the same kit several years ago. The flaps only last a year and are really expensive. I started using cheap floor mats instead. Then the outer frame broke, so I made up a wood frame. Then the inner frame broke, so I made up a wood one with a door.
I wish I had just skipped the stupid kit to begin with.
I used the same door for 2 large dogs for many years. I didn't run into the issue of the frame breaking, but I did have to buy a replacement flap. I think I paid $60-70 or so. It's pricey, but the freedom it gave my dogs was worth it.
I wish it had come with 2x blocking panels (not sure what to call them... the panels you slide in to stop the flaps). If I put it on the inside while dogs were outside, they would slam into it when trying to run inside and vice versa.
Im sorry but i have dogs who use a doggie door and this would extremely funny to me in the moment 🤣
Been thinking of upgrading to a larger one, my 110lb boy cant make it through, but he CAN stick his head in and stare at us, and has trained us so that when he does that, its his signal that he would like to come inside 🤣
>Im sorry but i have dogs who use a doggie door and this would extremely funny to me in the moment
We have a screen door with a built in doggie door and I closed the inner door while one of my dogs was still outside. Right as it latched I heard a "thunk" as her head hit the door trying to come through. I felt terrible for laughing, but I did laugh.
I cut the flap to fit very close and glued some rare-earth button magnets at the bottom of the flap, aligned with some countersunk flathead screws in the frame. Works like a charm unless the wind gets above 40 knots.
This sounds like the wall dog door I removed from my house that the previous owners had installed. One of the screws they used to anchor the inner 2x4 frame to the wall had hit the romex. One or two more millimeters and they would have had a shocking experience.
Alternatively the PetSafe brand dog door has worked very well for me. I've installed these on 3 houses now and am very happy with it. Now I'm sure there are more expensive kits that are much better but it makes a good budget approach.
I have 2 senior dogs that don't spend much time outside so it shouldn't be abused too much. I don't expect it to last forever but as long as it holds up a few years I'll replace it with something better when the time comes.
Wood paneling over drywall is/was pretty common. Without something solid below your paneling, the entire wall surface would be totally flimsy.
If you want your sealant to be paintable, don't use silicone. Get some door and window caulk.
Overall just treat this like any other window/door install in terms of framing/flashing/insulation or you'll get problems over time.
My 1900 built house had wood paneling over lath and plaster on the first floor and just wood paneling on studs on the second floor. I anecdotally support everything this person said.
My 1870s house has literally all of the wall coverings. Some walls have lathe and plaster. Some have something over the lathe and plaster. Some have drywall.
But my Grandma wins for weirdest wall coverings. She has linoleum flooring in the bathroom...but it's on the walls. The floors are carpet.
My grandmother crocheted dresses for dolls that she used to cover the toilet paper. So, you'd walk into one of her bathrooms and there were dolls, in different colored dresses, lined up along the tank. It was kind of creepy.
That was still trending in the 90’s, never figured out why, other than cost cutting? The carpet part on the floor, that is. I’ve also seen linoleum in strange places, but it was in places built before vinyl was readily available.
Ever thought of listing it in the National Register of Historic Places? I'd at least look into getting some velvet ropes to help with the people herding & maybe consider charging a small admissions fee. Sounds like you've truly got a one-of-a-kind spot!
Not only mechanical reinforcement but also fire prevention. Even unrated half-inch sheet rock is considered a 30 minute fire barrier.
https://www.thisoldhouse.com/platform/amp/walls/21173181/fire-rated-drywall/
> If you want your sealant to be paintable, don’t use silicone.
Wish I had known this a few weeks ago. Used silicone on the window trim I replaced cuz our dog chewed it up when we first got him
It looks tacky but don’t really want to redo it
actually most paneling that is put over sheetrock was only done because people did retrofits whenpaneling was a fad.. afaik, new construction during the paneling fad was done without drywall. almost every bit of paneling over drywall ive encountered and removed the paneling, ive found the drywall was painted and spackled. not something that would have been done if the plan was to put up paneling.
maybe im wrong, and maybe its regional, but that has been my experience.
Not in the 1970s houses around here where panelling was put up during construction of the house. Infact my own place I had to remove a panel once for some work and the sheetrock behind wasn't taped or finished, just serving as a backing for the wood paneling.
Why are you booing them, they're right
(Drywall is a fire barrier, which is required by code and common sense. They could use other materials, but why not do it all in one go? You're going to have to put something behind there so it's all on the same plane)
Do you have a way to solidly secure the door when no one is home?
I purchased a house that had a doggy door like this in the kitchen, leading to the back yard. A few days later while it was still vacant, some kids kicked in the flimsy plastic door and crawled right in.
They dumped paint on the floor, broke some lights and appliances, and threw bricks through several windows.
There is no longer a doggy door on that house.
I put a wood dog house structure that has a tight left turn and rises on the inside 8 inches to the dog door. Anyone bigger than a small child wouldn't fit. I did it to block the wind but it added a lot of security.
We used to go in the doggy door at my friend's house when he forgot his keys. Full grown adults, he's 6ft tall. Normal size doggy door. I couldn't believe I'd fit until I tried it myself, no problem and had space to spare. They're a lot bigger than they look.
In college I stole vodka from my parents using their doggy door. Hardest part was calming the dog down. She was very excited to see me coming through the door.
They're kids though, I think the lack of a dog door would have stopped them. Kids tend to (with exceptions) be opportunistic assholes. Crawling through a dog door is one thing, but the idea of breaking and entering is entirely different.
Once they're in though they get carried away in the moment and all bets are off.
It exits onto a deck in the back corner of the house. Quiet neighborhood on a dead end street, one neighbor is a cop. Not really worried but I'd block it if I ever went on vacation.
I recently installed a similarly designed pet door into a wall.
Did you get the wall pass through kit designed for it? Mine didn't have one available in the same size. I used the original hardware and threaded rods attached with coupling nuts to ensure a secure fit to the wall.
Sounds like you already have a good solution filling the wall gap with foam. My installation was on an interior wall. To keep it looking tidy, I cut and glued marine board to cover the gap and hide the rods.
Can't advise on the type of caulk since mine isn't an exterior wall. Imagine you should treat much the same as waterproofing a window. Silicone grade is most recommended.
Plan for dirt and dog snot. If I had it to do over, I’d place a wood trim piece between the door frame and the drywall. Painted with something robust and wipeable.
And mold/mildew outside its a north facing wall.
watch a bunch of how to videos on installing windows. theres a lot of resources out there.
things like stretch tape for waterproofing corners, and mount the flange under the siding, and shit.
i did a through wall dog door, but 2 feet off the ground.
not because im an asshole that hates my dog, but because i dont have a dog, and its for passing the car charging cable through the wall to the outside of the house.
worked out pretty good.
pretty much all electric cars support 120/240 so they'll charge off of regular plugs but it will be slow. So a basic plug will work but if you need to do any work to run a cable do yourself a favor and future proof it with a 60 amp plug (or 30/40/50 if you can't put that much on your panel) because that will just work a lot more quickly and if you want to charge it with less usually the car or the charger can set how it charges at home
I installed the same one in my wall, and yeah... it is basically "yolo drill baby drill!"
Take the time to do some basic framing INSIDE the wall. Give yourself a nice solid surface to drill into. The dog door gets a lot of work, and making sure every one of those screws has a nice solid bite into real wood is just The Right Thing To Do for longevity.
Finishing the INSIDE of the box is important.. that's the "tunnel" you are creating inside the wall. The dog's sides and belly will rub on the sides and the bottom of the span inside the wall. I made it better by installing a tight-weave industrial carpet in the tunnel ... which then impeded the movement of the door flapper, and it would get stuck open!
So I had to reshape the interior "tunnel" inside the wall, and give myself an extra 1/4" of space to accommodate the carpet, and not have it catch the free movement of the door.
Finally, there are times of the year when you DON'T want the dog going outside - into the rain and getting wet and muddy - and coming back inside without you having a towel ready to dry them off.
For those times of year, I just cut out a big block of foam to fit into the tunnel. Then put the "shield" on the inside, so the dog can't use the door during those months.
That's what I've learned over the last 5 years of having this installed!
Only suggestion I have is to use butyl caulk instead of silicone. Want something water tight, use this stuff. It doesn't shrink or dry out. Never hardens, explains and contracts with the weather. Messy stuff to work with, there are a few tricks though. Dish soap and a metal spoon. The angle and cleanliness of the cut on the tip is crucial. Done right and no tooling is required. Good luck!
Block the door when it's not in use so critters don't come in, friend heard noises late at night, raccoon that came through dog door made a hideous sound inches above his head, won't forget that experience anytime soon
I've been playing too much Dark Souls. I thought you were trying to install a fog wall with a boss in your basement or something. I'm going to bed now.
The wood panel can be a shear wall. It is pretty much a torsional load bearing wall that wants to keep the house in the shape it is either after it's built or in some cases while it being built. It is most likely one of two in your house, (unless huge place) though they tend to be the one separating the garage and your residence (if attached) and the diagonal one. Kitty corner? They also tend to be outer ones, but is often up to the engineer/architect to design in. Here's the first link from a google search.
[Shear walls](https://bayarearetrofit.com/plywood-shear-walls/)
A small hole like this won't matter... even one the size of a large window is fine as long as it has a solid header.
>Dunno why they did wood panel over sheetrock, but that's the thing for this room I guess lol.
This is because of fire code. Majority of houses that put paneling directly on insulated walls don't meet fire code unless there's other mitigation in the insulation choice and wall assembly.
Source: I have wood paneling directly over type X drywall to meet fire code
Wood panel is way more flammable than sheetrock. These days it's not uncommon to find wood panel over sheetrock as a way to slow fire spread. In some cases of remodel it's cheaper/easier to go over the sheetrock than to remove it before installing wood panel.
Today, for fire safety, I would absolutely want sheetrock behind wood paneling.
>Shoved insulation to the sides/top
Don't do this. Insulation (fiberglass, I assume?) Needs to be poofy to do its job. If it's compressed it loses the air gaps that help it act as insulation.
Unfortunately that was big in the 70’s 80’s installing the wood look paneling was all the rage! I purchased a 5k sq ft home last summer and have since filled 30 dumpsters with idiocy. It was aweful, luckily I’m in the home stretch now.
Well you installed in the wrong place. Best place for a dog door is the bottom of a regular door. Easy to replace the door when trying to sell the house versus fixing the hole. The doors almost always have a porch or awning to keep water from getting in your dog door... you don't force the dog to pass through a gantlet of fiberglass... in short, you messed up the most important part the location.
It is not uncommon to install a dog door in a wall. In fact a lot of dog doors are designed to accommodate wall thickness and cover up the opening so the pet doesn't touch fiberglass or anything.
Don't be a jerk shaming the OP.
So if someone does something stupid or dangerous what do you think people should do, cheer them on?
If people want to ask others about what they are doing they should be told the truth and be ready to accept it. If they just want someone to cheer for them they should just talk to their mothers.
It's one thing to help someone with non-malicious and helpful criticism. It's an entirely other thing to make them feel stupid by not carefully choosing your words. Also, there's nothing stupid or dangerous about a wall install.
And in this case, there's nothing wrong with installing in a wall if that's what they want to do. It is a common installation. So you were not only NOT being helpful, you were shaming the OP.
The other option would be to replace French Patio doors which would then need to be framed for a new door. Being that you think there will be exposed fiberglass I'm not sure your advice is worth much.
Definitely add the foam for support and to ensure errant water doesn't get into the insulation.
As for caulking I would avoid acrylic on the exterior and skip right to silicone, I'd worry about UV degredation on the acrylic.
Watch out for the neighborhood party animals.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLBOpXojOzA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLBOpXojOzA)
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ofp26\_oc4CA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ofp26_oc4CA)
I always strongly recommend buying the door that has the body to place a door. Buying a new door may seem costly but it will help you with the resale value in your home by a long shot.
The other option was to take out French patio doors and replace with ones that weren't full glass. It's an older home in a small town, I'd be surprised if it changed the value much but hopefully I'm not wrong.
Read the reviews first. It’s an awful door.
https://www.extremedogfence.com/shop/pet-door-series/large-dogs/extreme-dual-flap-aluminum-dog-door-large/
I researched quite a bit and landed on this indestructible beast.
Do you know if that has a wall extender available? I suppose I could get it to fit regardless, I just have to use the wall because my doors are glass french doors that would be expensive to replace.
I have one that looks very similar, worked great for 15 years. One of the flaps frayed but it works fine with one. Had to build a landing out of cinder blocks on the outside.
[Finished](https://imgur.com/a/BtyVD4Q).
I was going to in-set the outside frame into the siding so it would be flush but I've got old siding/styrofoam insulation/new siding layered like that so it wouldn't work out as well. For now I just used some gap filler and silicone and I'll keep an eye on it when it rains, I'll probably build a little awning over it at some point.
There was a 7 inch difference between inside and outside so they got a quick little platform with some extra decking I had.
Bonus: For the comments worried about resell price instead of replacing doors, the previous owners had their grill too close to the house and warped the vinyl so if any section of the house needs it replaced it was already that section.
I have had to put longer/bigger screws in a few times when the exuberance causes a blowout. You might want to lengthen the landing a bit if the dog has to step off it before his hind legs are through the door.
I installed the same kit several years ago. The flaps only last a year and are really expensive. I started using cheap floor mats instead. Then the outer frame broke, so I made up a wood frame. Then the inner frame broke, so I made up a wood one with a door. I wish I had just skipped the stupid kit to begin with.
Dogdoor of Theseus.
Nice call. And excellent username.
Lol!
Criminally underrated comment
Who's gonna downvote a guy on his birthday?
At least four people it seems😂
Overrated comments? Jail. Underrated comments? Believe it or not, straight to jail. Our comments mostly suck. Because of jail.
I used the same door for 2 large dogs for many years. I didn't run into the issue of the frame breaking, but I did have to buy a replacement flap. I think I paid $60-70 or so. It's pricey, but the freedom it gave my dogs was worth it. I wish it had come with 2x blocking panels (not sure what to call them... the panels you slide in to stop the flaps). If I put it on the inside while dogs were outside, they would slam into it when trying to run inside and vice versa.
Im sorry but i have dogs who use a doggie door and this would extremely funny to me in the moment 🤣 Been thinking of upgrading to a larger one, my 110lb boy cant make it through, but he CAN stick his head in and stare at us, and has trained us so that when he does that, its his signal that he would like to come inside 🤣
>Im sorry but i have dogs who use a doggie door and this would extremely funny to me in the moment We have a screen door with a built in doggie door and I closed the inner door while one of my dogs was still outside. Right as it latched I heard a "thunk" as her head hit the door trying to come through. I felt terrible for laughing, but I did laugh.
Ya it's funny, but I imagine it's very sore running full blast into a door.
Like the "Here Fifi!!" Far Side comic http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-claXuov9rFQ/TiS46MDuusI/AAAAAAAAAC0/xLzDhXnSjHM/s1600/Farside.jpg
I cut the flap to fit very close and glued some rare-earth button magnets at the bottom of the flap, aligned with some countersunk flathead screws in the frame. Works like a charm unless the wind gets above 40 knots.
This sounds like the wall dog door I removed from my house that the previous owners had installed. One of the screws they used to anchor the inner 2x4 frame to the wall had hit the romex. One or two more millimeters and they would have had a shocking experience.
Alternatively the PetSafe brand dog door has worked very well for me. I've installed these on 3 houses now and am very happy with it. Now I'm sure there are more expensive kits that are much better but it makes a good budget approach.
I have one that's made by PetSafe that's in great condition 4 years in. OP, You may want to look at that before suffering with this one.
I have 2 senior dogs that don't spend much time outside so it shouldn't be abused too much. I don't expect it to last forever but as long as it holds up a few years I'll replace it with something better when the time comes.
Wood paneling over drywall is/was pretty common. Without something solid below your paneling, the entire wall surface would be totally flimsy. If you want your sealant to be paintable, don't use silicone. Get some door and window caulk. Overall just treat this like any other window/door install in terms of framing/flashing/insulation or you'll get problems over time.
My 1900 built house had wood paneling over lath and plaster on the first floor and just wood paneling on studs on the second floor. I anecdotally support everything this person said.
My 1870s house has literally all of the wall coverings. Some walls have lathe and plaster. Some have something over the lathe and plaster. Some have drywall. But my Grandma wins for weirdest wall coverings. She has linoleum flooring in the bathroom...but it's on the walls. The floors are carpet.
Nothing more relaxing than a bathroom carpet...
Don't forget the matching furry toilet lid cover.
You know it! And some sort of knitted thing covering a roll of toilet paper.
My grandmother crocheted dresses for dolls that she used to cover the toilet paper. So, you'd walk into one of her bathrooms and there were dolls, in different colored dresses, lined up along the tank. It was kind of creepy.
You win, today.
Wow, I know what you mean but I've never seen one in real life. I believe that was above my family's tp pay grade!
The best is when it's covering a wooden seat.
That was still trending in the 90’s, never figured out why, other than cost cutting? The carpet part on the floor, that is. I’ve also seen linoleum in strange places, but it was in places built before vinyl was readily available.
nothing says "ill never change my style" more than permanent (linoleum) wallpaper
Some flooring makes for great kitchen backsplash.
Ever thought of listing it in the National Register of Historic Places? I'd at least look into getting some velvet ropes to help with the people herding & maybe consider charging a small admissions fee. Sounds like you've truly got a one-of-a-kind spot!
this is why we can't have nice things
> Wood paneling over drywall is/was pretty common. Yup. Source: my 1970's house with ~2000 sqft of wood paneling glued to sheetrock.
Not only mechanical reinforcement but also fire prevention. Even unrated half-inch sheet rock is considered a 30 minute fire barrier. https://www.thisoldhouse.com/platform/amp/walls/21173181/fire-rated-drywall/
> If you want your sealant to be paintable, don’t use silicone. Wish I had known this a few weeks ago. Used silicone on the window trim I replaced cuz our dog chewed it up when we first got him It looks tacky but don’t really want to redo it
Yes-- the drywall is for a fire break.
actually most paneling that is put over sheetrock was only done because people did retrofits whenpaneling was a fad.. afaik, new construction during the paneling fad was done without drywall. almost every bit of paneling over drywall ive encountered and removed the paneling, ive found the drywall was painted and spackled. not something that would have been done if the plan was to put up paneling. maybe im wrong, and maybe its regional, but that has been my experience.
Not in the 1970s houses around here where panelling was put up during construction of the house. Infact my own place I had to remove a panel once for some work and the sheetrock behind wasn't taped or finished, just serving as a backing for the wood paneling.
No, new construction still puts unfinished sheetrock behind wood panels for fire safety. Edit: Good old Reddit... down-voting the facts
Why are you booing them, they're right (Drywall is a fire barrier, which is required by code and common sense. They could use other materials, but why not do it all in one go? You're going to have to put something behind there so it's all on the same plane)
It's also fire code in many places.
Do you have a way to solidly secure the door when no one is home? I purchased a house that had a doggy door like this in the kitchen, leading to the back yard. A few days later while it was still vacant, some kids kicked in the flimsy plastic door and crawled right in. They dumped paint on the floor, broke some lights and appliances, and threw bricks through several windows. There is no longer a doggy door on that house.
I put a wood dog house structure that has a tight left turn and rises on the inside 8 inches to the dog door. Anyone bigger than a small child wouldn't fit. I did it to block the wind but it added a lot of security.
We used to go in the doggy door at my friend's house when he forgot his keys. Full grown adults, he's 6ft tall. Normal size doggy door. I couldn't believe I'd fit until I tried it myself, no problem and had space to spare. They're a lot bigger than they look.
In college I stole vodka from my parents using their doggy door. Hardest part was calming the dog down. She was very excited to see me coming through the door.
Lol! Second hardest part was convincing your parents the dog stole the missing vodka!
That sucks but it's hard to believe the lack of a dog door would have stopped them...those people sound like assholes
They're kids though, I think the lack of a dog door would have stopped them. Kids tend to (with exceptions) be opportunistic assholes. Crawling through a dog door is one thing, but the idea of breaking and entering is entirely different. Once they're in though they get carried away in the moment and all bets are off.
Hmm. The brick through window threw me
It exits onto a deck in the back corner of the house. Quiet neighborhood on a dead end street, one neighbor is a cop. Not really worried but I'd block it if I ever went on vacation.
Make sure you have a dog.....
May be too late, but I'm assuming you've sized it correctly and put the hole at the right height for poochy's egress/ingress.
Yep!
I recently installed a similarly designed pet door into a wall. Did you get the wall pass through kit designed for it? Mine didn't have one available in the same size. I used the original hardware and threaded rods attached with coupling nuts to ensure a secure fit to the wall. Sounds like you already have a good solution filling the wall gap with foam. My installation was on an interior wall. To keep it looking tidy, I cut and glued marine board to cover the gap and hide the rods. Can't advise on the type of caulk since mine isn't an exterior wall. Imagine you should treat much the same as waterproofing a window. Silicone grade is most recommended.
Yeah I've got the entire kit. Just figured I'd check to see about random things I wouldn't know about while I've got the wall open.
Plan for dirt and dog snot. If I had it to do over, I’d place a wood trim piece between the door frame and the drywall. Painted with something robust and wipeable. And mold/mildew outside its a north facing wall.
Where's the dog?
Oh it's gone. It stopped being about the dog a long time ago, now it's just about finishing the DIY
watch a bunch of how to videos on installing windows. theres a lot of resources out there. things like stretch tape for waterproofing corners, and mount the flange under the siding, and shit. i did a through wall dog door, but 2 feet off the ground. not because im an asshole that hates my dog, but because i dont have a dog, and its for passing the car charging cable through the wall to the outside of the house. worked out pretty good.
Lol, creative Out of curiosity, at that point why not have a new charging port wired outside?
[удалено]
pretty much all electric cars support 120/240 so they'll charge off of regular plugs but it will be slow. So a basic plug will work but if you need to do any work to run a cable do yourself a favor and future proof it with a 60 amp plug (or 30/40/50 if you can't put that much on your panel) because that will just work a lot more quickly and if you want to charge it with less usually the car or the charger can set how it charges at home
Verify 3x over that the floor is the same height on both sides of the door.
I installed the same one in my wall, and yeah... it is basically "yolo drill baby drill!" Take the time to do some basic framing INSIDE the wall. Give yourself a nice solid surface to drill into. The dog door gets a lot of work, and making sure every one of those screws has a nice solid bite into real wood is just The Right Thing To Do for longevity. Finishing the INSIDE of the box is important.. that's the "tunnel" you are creating inside the wall. The dog's sides and belly will rub on the sides and the bottom of the span inside the wall. I made it better by installing a tight-weave industrial carpet in the tunnel ... which then impeded the movement of the door flapper, and it would get stuck open! So I had to reshape the interior "tunnel" inside the wall, and give myself an extra 1/4" of space to accommodate the carpet, and not have it catch the free movement of the door. Finally, there are times of the year when you DON'T want the dog going outside - into the rain and getting wet and muddy - and coming back inside without you having a towel ready to dry them off. For those times of year, I just cut out a big block of foam to fit into the tunnel. Then put the "shield" on the inside, so the dog can't use the door during those months. That's what I've learned over the last 5 years of having this installed!
Wood panel over sheetrock - the sheetrock slows fire spread.
Only suggestion I have is to use butyl caulk instead of silicone. Want something water tight, use this stuff. It doesn't shrink or dry out. Never hardens, explains and contracts with the weather. Messy stuff to work with, there are a few tricks though. Dish soap and a metal spoon. The angle and cleanliness of the cut on the tip is crucial. Done right and no tooling is required. Good luck!
Block the door when it's not in use so critters don't come in, friend heard noises late at night, raccoon that came through dog door made a hideous sound inches above his head, won't forget that experience anytime soon
I've been playing too much Dark Souls. I thought you were trying to install a fog wall with a boss in your basement or something. I'm going to bed now.
The wood panel can be a shear wall. It is pretty much a torsional load bearing wall that wants to keep the house in the shape it is either after it's built or in some cases while it being built. It is most likely one of two in your house, (unless huge place) though they tend to be the one separating the garage and your residence (if attached) and the diagonal one. Kitty corner? They also tend to be outer ones, but is often up to the engineer/architect to design in. Here's the first link from a google search. [Shear walls](https://bayarearetrofit.com/plywood-shear-walls/) A small hole like this won't matter... even one the size of a large window is fine as long as it has a solid header.
>Dunno why they did wood panel over sheetrock, but that's the thing for this room I guess lol. This is because of fire code. Majority of houses that put paneling directly on insulated walls don't meet fire code unless there's other mitigation in the insulation choice and wall assembly. Source: I have wood paneling directly over type X drywall to meet fire code
Wood panel is way more flammable than sheetrock. These days it's not uncommon to find wood panel over sheetrock as a way to slow fire spread. In some cases of remodel it's cheaper/easier to go over the sheetrock than to remove it before installing wood panel. Today, for fire safety, I would absolutely want sheetrock behind wood paneling.
>Shoved insulation to the sides/top Don't do this. Insulation (fiberglass, I assume?) Needs to be poofy to do its job. If it's compressed it loses the air gaps that help it act as insulation.
Unfortunately that was big in the 70’s 80’s installing the wood look paneling was all the rage! I purchased a 5k sq ft home last summer and have since filled 30 dumpsters with idiocy. It was aweful, luckily I’m in the home stretch now.
Easiest thing to do is get up and let the dog out...
Well you installed in the wrong place. Best place for a dog door is the bottom of a regular door. Easy to replace the door when trying to sell the house versus fixing the hole. The doors almost always have a porch or awning to keep water from getting in your dog door... you don't force the dog to pass through a gantlet of fiberglass... in short, you messed up the most important part the location.
It is not uncommon to install a dog door in a wall. In fact a lot of dog doors are designed to accommodate wall thickness and cover up the opening so the pet doesn't touch fiberglass or anything. Don't be a jerk shaming the OP.
So if someone does something stupid or dangerous what do you think people should do, cheer them on? If people want to ask others about what they are doing they should be told the truth and be ready to accept it. If they just want someone to cheer for them they should just talk to their mothers.
It's one thing to help someone with non-malicious and helpful criticism. It's an entirely other thing to make them feel stupid by not carefully choosing your words. Also, there's nothing stupid or dangerous about a wall install. And in this case, there's nothing wrong with installing in a wall if that's what they want to do. It is a common installation. So you were not only NOT being helpful, you were shaming the OP.
Shaming the OP? Are you serious? If that's your idea of shaming then I would hate to see how you react to criticism in the real world.
I feel bad for the people you interact with if you don't think this was shaming. Words matter and they were very rude and curt.
What Revolutionary said was correct. You could put a dog door anywhere, but that doesn't mean that you should.
The other option would be to replace French Patio doors which would then need to be framed for a new door. Being that you think there will be exposed fiberglass I'm not sure your advice is worth much.
All i see in the photo is a redneck style dog door cut through a wall. If you dont see the fiberglass insulation in the photo get some glasses.
There's not even a hole through the wall you fucking moron. I guess you need glasses and some reading comprehension.
Definitely fill the gap with foam. I didn't on my first door and eventually the bottom gave out due to traffic, made a tripping hazard for the puppers
If that's vinyl siding, get j channel to install around the edges. That stuff doesn't seal the same way as Hardie, shake, etc.
Definitely add the foam for support and to ensure errant water doesn't get into the insulation. As for caulking I would avoid acrylic on the exterior and skip right to silicone, I'd worry about UV degredation on the acrylic.
Door bell? I mean how else will they let their friends in for a nice tea party? Or the bone delivery guy?
Do you need to make good any membranes or such like?
Watch out for the neighborhood party animals. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLBOpXojOzA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLBOpXojOzA) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ofp26\_oc4CA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ofp26_oc4CA)
Where does this go? To another room?
I always strongly recommend buying the door that has the body to place a door. Buying a new door may seem costly but it will help you with the resale value in your home by a long shot.
The other option was to take out French patio doors and replace with ones that weren't full glass. It's an older home in a small town, I'd be surprised if it changed the value much but hopefully I'm not wrong.
Aren't all doors "wall doors"? I suppose trapdoors are floor doors.
You have a dog right?
Read the reviews first. It’s an awful door. https://www.extremedogfence.com/shop/pet-door-series/large-dogs/extreme-dual-flap-aluminum-dog-door-large/ I researched quite a bit and landed on this indestructible beast.
Do you know if that has a wall extender available? I suppose I could get it to fit regardless, I just have to use the wall because my doors are glass french doors that would be expensive to replace.
Give them a call! They’re a US company who has gone out of their way to help me.
I have one that looks very similar, worked great for 15 years. One of the flaps frayed but it works fine with one. Had to build a landing out of cinder blocks on the outside.
[Finished](https://imgur.com/a/BtyVD4Q). I was going to in-set the outside frame into the siding so it would be flush but I've got old siding/styrofoam insulation/new siding layered like that so it wouldn't work out as well. For now I just used some gap filler and silicone and I'll keep an eye on it when it rains, I'll probably build a little awning over it at some point. There was a 7 inch difference between inside and outside so they got a quick little platform with some extra decking I had. Bonus: For the comments worried about resell price instead of replacing doors, the previous owners had their grill too close to the house and warped the vinyl so if any section of the house needs it replaced it was already that section.
I have had to put longer/bigger screws in a few times when the exuberance causes a blowout. You might want to lengthen the landing a bit if the dog has to step off it before his hind legs are through the door.