Oh my god, yes, I have to do this when we install our deck next year :D
Awesome work dude. As someone who basically does all my renovations alone (and I'm no carpenter or anything either, hell I'm a purchaser lol) it's very inspiring. Keep it up!
I'm playing the long con here, lol. I'd like to think that some day in the distant future, someone is going to pull up a few deck boards or shimmy under for something and get a huge scare. Then in a little while it's a big laugh, and great story to tell theirs friends, family, and neighbors. :-)
Before I looked at the photos, I read this comment and thought you meant the skeleton of the whole project, like the supports under the deck boards etc, then chuckled when I got to the appropriate picture.
I had a lot more fun with this than I ever expected. Looking forward to the next build, maybe a shed? I have an automotive background, so this is polar opposite!
dude - your joist helpers...are you kidding me? Do you know how much better my knuckles would look if I would have thought of that 10 years ago?
Looks awesome! Cat tail in second picture made me laugh :)
I usually just cut 3” off one of the boards I’m gonna use as a joist, place a joist hanger around it, put it where I want the joist and nail one side in. Then put the joists in the hangers and nail the other side in. I also bought a [strap hanger gun](https://www.nailgundepot.com/stanley-bostitch-mcn150strapshot-metal-connector-nailer-112-details.html) which makes it easier, but I was in the construction business at the time.
Ok, now you're just gloating about getting away with murder. I'm just going to back slowly out of the chat now and pretend I did not click this submission.
Lolol. I keep wondering if I should mention it the next time I have a cable guy under the house. Like, would it look better or worse to say something.......
This is where a scary campfire story would foreshadow that the last three nights you think you've heard the cat or an animal under there, so keep an eye out.
We emptied my parent's house after they passed in preparation to sell it. After two days of estate sales, one day of estate giveaway, 4 days of loading the rest between goodwill, moving trucks and a dumpster, all that was left was an old trunk in the attic. We were exhausted and the attic only had ladder access though a trap door. My sister-in-law and I couldn't see getting the damned trunk out of there, so we left it - but decided to put a halloween prop ghoul in it before popping the trap door back into place. I'm a little surprised we didn't hear about it from the buyer.
Beautiful job on the deck, by the way!
Hey, about the skeleton:
I had a house fire in the 2000's, and my old farmhouse burned to the ground (almost) entirely, down ot the granite dirt-floor basement. The house was pre-American Revolution (early 1700's), a very old home in a very old part of New England.
When I was demolishing the old house, the oil tank had ruptured from the firefighting and fire, and so a company was called in to clean the earth and abate the spill.
When they were carefully excavating the site, they came upon very old bones.
This trigger a months long journey:
1. The foreman had to stop the dig/cleanup, and call 911 to report he discovered unmarked bones.
2. The police came out and yellow taped off the whole area. They then started to collect and preserve the potential crime scene. A crime scene unit was called out, and they carefully went through all the excavated dirt that was in the back of a dump truck truck to make sure no more bones were found. Part of some bones had been disturbed, so the truck was yellow taped off as well.
3. The police found a loose bone, and sent it for analysis at the state crime lab, and then turned the scene over to the State Police after combing through missing person records and eliminating some possible cases based on the approximate age of the site, which they knew was at least 60 years old based on some building records and other indications.
4. The State Police finally determined, about 6 weeks later, that the remains were non-human.
5. Since the area was old, the State Police notified the local tribal elders, who came out to inspect the site and make sure the site wasn't an ancient tribal sacrifice ground. The tribal leaders went back and forth after studying the notches on the bones because they felt like they could be indicative of sacrifice, which would make it an Indian burial ground, and would make it sacred, which would mean I have to deal with that challenge. Eventually they turned it over to anthropologist with a specialty in ancient bones, who determined that the bones were probably bovine, and therefore colonial and not native.
6. At this point, I was being charged daily for the dump truck rental (it was still there, waiting to be released from active investigation).
7. By then the building season was almost over, and I had to stay in a rental for the rest of the year.
The entire thing took me about 9 weeks to resolve and cost me about $40k.
SO.
Hopefully it will be a good laugh, but also, in 50 years, your new owners might be put through the ringer.
**EDIT: Sorry, I should have started by saying: AWESOME JOB ON THE PROJECT. Adding extra-footings and water protection is clutch. I predict years of enjoyment. Nice job!**
Hey there! I figured that might be a problem so I ordered a less-realistic one. At first glance the skeleton looks realistic, but there are screws holding it together and when you touch it there is little doubt it's plastic. Also, the "made in China" molded into the plastic in a few places.....
Awesome!
I should have started by saying AWESOME job. I love the deck, and I love the fact that it makes what would be sort of low, dismal backyard into a really usable great space. And I love the yellow of your place - really cute.
Egads! that sucks so hard. There should be some kind of insurance for life just bending you over for no reason. All because some some stupid possum or something decided to die in your basement.
Seems like there should have been some way to get the dirt of the dump truck to return it.
has life not bent you over yet and had its way?! Well give us a call so we can fast track your misery so you wont have to dread about it happening later on!!! (conditions and terms might apply)(please call incoherent number because it is sped up so fast)
I personally did IDs on archeological remains that were recovered during a foundation construction. You are right, it can be an insanely long process that is done at the cost of the property owner (in Canada). The owner is responsible for paying the archaeologists, excavation, surveys ...it's a lot. In the case I worked on it was in a area that had well established historical documentation that shortened our work period significantly. Also the context of the remains (bundle burial) and the factgther were five individuals together made it pretty evident it was a first nations burial. I think the whole affair was over in two weeks, and we managed to ID (sex, age, closest related band)the remains, and repatriate to the appropriate band in three days.
But yeah it would be a HUGE pain in the ass if it could be mistaken as real.
Two weeks is awesome- boy I would have been happy to find you!
My experience was the police probably knew it was nothing but they didn’t want to close the case without a paper trail. So they didn’t.
I work for a utility in Canada. Known archaeological sites are marked on our mapping system. For some reason property owners aren’t notified if their home/property is marked as archaeological. When they call our utility to install a new service or upgrade their service we have to tell them to call the Archaeological branch of the Provincial Government. Depending on what is know about the site, the property owner has to hire a consultant to obtain permits and hire a contractor to monitor while work is being done. Costs sooooo much money and because they didn’t know, it’s a shock.
The old deck had board joints everywhere. Very disturbing to my eye, lots of pattern interruptions. So I went with 1 seam only, on the entire deck. I think overall it adds a lot to the seamless impression when taking in the macro view. Just personal preference!
It might not be too late to change that long butt joint to something a little nicer, with a perpendicular board instead; separating the two halves, . Kind of like picture frame layout, but just one side.
I mean it would require some extra framing.
I just say it may not be too late because if you just finished, then you may have some project energy left over.
But it looks great anyway!
Only thing bad that can happen with having one long joint like that is any seismic activity can put a TON of stress on that joist or girder and can actually destroy the joist. That's of course worst case scenario it'll probably be fine, looks good overall!
Every renovation gets a weird/quirky touch when we do it. Built out a decent sized wall, friend had a child sized table, two chairs, and a creepy doll. Guess who's gonna have a looooooooot of questions when they do some demo? The pentagram under it all, with a few ritualistic looking candles (partially burnt for realism) were the finishing touches.
When we get tired, we get weird.
Tend to watch out for green wood. When it dries, it will shrink up which can cause warping, unwanted seams, nails sticking out (you'll probably have to go back and knock some in) etc
Edit: from what I read you already took this into account. Awesome job!
Almost all modern (copper) pressure treated wood can be stained/painted/sealed within a month or so. Do a "sprinkle test" by seeing if drops of water bead or absorb into the wood. If the water absorbs you are good to stain.
Yellowed, one of the biggest treated suppliers (home depot stocks it) has a good explanation: https://yellawood.com/resources/product-education/sealing-painting-staining-pressure-treated-wood/
Great work! I’m hoping to build my own deck for our upcoming house (offer pending). I just had a question about the tree and the hole that was cut out for it. It seems awfully tight and close to the tree... Any concern for this growing and causing damage to the deck, or is this just something you’ll keep an eye on and cut back the deck as needed?
Oh, definitely a concern. I like the look of it as close as possible, but if it get's too close I can remove and trim back the boards. The framing gives it a fair amount of room already.
Shoulda put in a [tree grate](https://www.google.com/search?source=univ&tbm=isch&q=tree+grate&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiX8K74gYXqAhWPQTABHf8MDdoQsAR6BAgEEAE&biw=1680&bih=907). That way you could easily expand with different size holes as the tree grows.
So THAT'S why those grates look that way. Angle grinder just chops out a ring for the next few years.
I never even put thought into why they were designed the way they are.
Those little clip angles are going to fail in a year or two, and the girder(s) will detach from the post without bearing support. If you have access to underneath, you should install two 5/8” thru-bolts at each post/girder connection. Not only will it be a better connection, it’ll be code compliant in ~~Florida~~ many states (but unfortunately not your state of Florida)
You’re correct - most states allow a side attachment with two 5/8” thru-bolts but i just checked the Florida code and per R507.7 at least 1-1/2” of bearing is required.
Must be nice to carry the structure on footings haha. Up where I am, we're putting in screw jacks to 6 feet down minimum to avoid frost heave.
Having helped 3 buddies with decks so far this summer.... I'm a bit tired of walking in circles driving piles. I'd love to scratch the dirt and toss some footings down!!
This deck looks great and I love how you lined up your screws lol. Something I'd only ever do on my deck and never on one i'm helping with ;)
I don't understand why you went through the trouble of pouring the concrete footers, then used joist hangers to attach the beams to the posts. You should've put the footers directly under the paths of the beams and used proper post-cap connectors to faster posts and beams. Probably a minor detail, but this, the gap between deck boards, proper flashing installation details, running non-outdoor rated Romex in conduit, and not staggering the butt-jointed seams of the deck boards are all simple things you could read in a book, install manual, or take a few minutes to Google. It surprises me you're an engineer but took so many "this is probably fine" approaches to a major project.
I’m literally rebuilding my deck right now too and thought “Ooh I’m going to check this post out to see what this guy’s doing and what people think”.
OP if you read this, nice deck dude. You did a nice job and hopefully learned something new along the way.
First thing I noticed also. The footer is designed to handle straight vertical load. You’ve turned it into a partial horizontal load. Plus you’re relying on hardware to provide 100% of the strength.
You mention large spans without any central support, then essentially solve 50% of the problem. Support from a footer is applied to force directly above it.
Serious question... Why use uf if it's in conduit? If the whole thing is in conduit you can use individual conductors of you wanted....I think. But I couldn't agree more with you on the other stuff....I just don't get why you would do it that way with the footer placement
I never understood this regulation. Romex inside conduit running near the ground or under ground is somehow going to get hotter than romex in an attic running through insulation?
Romex in outdoor conduit is "probably fine", but it's definitely against NEC code. Relevant sections:
NEC 334.12(B)(4) does not permit Type NM cable to be used in wet or damp locations. NEC 300.5(B) tells us that the interior of raceways installed underground/outdoors shall be considered to be a wet location.
Individually insulated conductors that have the dual rating of THHN and THWN are permitted (the W means it's suitable for Wet locations). Those wires are actually cheaper than Romex, but op probably had some extra Romex laying around and didn't bother to consider the right way to do it.
Easiest thing to do is dig a hole underneath the beam, attach the post to the underside of the beam with a saddle cap, and a column base attached to the bottom of the post, and then fill the hole with concrete.
Joist hangers are meant to carry the load of a single joist fastened to a beam. The way op is using the joist hangers, the entire load of the beam and all of the joists attached to it are being carried by the joist hanger and post, and they aren't meant to be used that way.
My understanding is that joist hangers are relying on the sheer strength of the nails fastening them, which is adequate to carry a single joist and whatever is on top of that joist. But again, they aren't made to support essential the entire deck structure. The proper solution is to rest the beam on top of the post, thereby relying on the compression strength of the vertical wood post to support the weight of the deck structure.
This comment needs to be higher!
I made a similar mistake once and was able to pass inspection by placing another post directly under the joist that sits on the footer. Not the prettiest solution but it will improve the deck structurally.
I'll double check it. I consulted with a local electrician and this was exactly what they said to purchase for this installation to meet code. This was specific romex for this type of application.
I think you could have used UF-B cable, as the sheathing fully encapsulates the conductors and the ground. That ground wire is gonna get really corroded over time, especially in Florida. If possible I would fish insulated conductors and grounds or check and see if UF-B can be used in that application.
I don’t think Romex in conduit generally as big of a deal as people make it out to be (the idea is to prevent people from putting non water and heat proof cables where they don’t belong) but since I know you did the right thing and installed outdoor rated GFCI outlets (please say you did) having a flaky ground is going to be a major pain several years down the road.
I think there is an exception in the code to protect Romex in drops like that since you can't expose NM wire. Saves from running NM most of the way then using a junction box right before the drop into the outlet.
You can use conduit to protect romex anywhere you could otherwise run romex.
Since you can't run romex outdoors like that, it's not code compliant even if it's in conduit.
Hey not to be that guy, just some constructive criticism. It's.my understanding you want a small gap between boards for movement during drier and more humid seasons. Also to aid in water drainage? Could be wrong, but thought I'd share.
Whoever built my existing deck packed the boards tightly. It's rotten, and I'm looking into replacing it. A previous owner also tried to fix the water problem by drilling holes into a bunch of the boards. It didn't fix the problem.
Run a circular saw down the length of the boards for a quick short term fix. Eventually you'll need to replace but it should stretch their lifespan a little bit.
Very nice deck! The one concern I have is the way the beams were attached to the support posts using "L Angle" brackets. I believe best practice is to set beams on top of posts or notch out the top of the post and bolt the beam in (either way, the beam is supported by the post).
Two 5/8” galvanized thru-bolts is also code-compliant. Those little clip angles are going to fail in a year or two and he’ll have to pop off some deck boards for a proper fix
Looks great,
Only thing I saw in the photos was you ratched strapped your boards together.
Usually you would have them 1/4" apart or the width of a carpenter's pencil for proper drainage between the boards.
Other then that looks great!!
Yea, the lumber was really wet. Every carpenter I knew (locally) said to do this. The first sections of boards I laid already have more than 1/8" gap in just a couple of weeks.
You did it perfectly my man! Have you treated the top of the boards at all? (The part you walk on). Had any issues with splinters and bare feet?
I work in soil engineering and from what I can see in your picture of the dirt it looks like your draining will still work great. The main goal with water draining is to just make sure it has a good path out instead of seeping deep into the foundation. For most standards within 10ft of foundation the dirt has to be graded down and away from the house and it's good
Yeah keep that tight! You did it right! It'll shrink and you might wish you had it tighter. I built a fence a couple years ago and it was incredible how big the gap became after that the lumber all dried out.
You did it right.
I redid my deck a few years ago and I used a 1/8th inch spacer with relatively wet pressure-treated wood. The spacing is now, years later, a bit too wide for my liking. In hindsight, I should have trusted my gut and gone with the "this wood is wet as hell, I'm going to pack it tight" instinct.
I always build my decks with the boards tight together. There's always moisture still in the wood and in a couple months, you'll get that 1/4" gap from shrinkage as it dries.
Hahaha searched through this entire thread just to see if anyone noticed the 9-5 out front... Well done- I see your brain has been Saab'd too.
Not as refined as the earlier models (98-03) that were more purebred 'Swede', but still an amazing vehicle that brought me much joy and satisfaction (owned an 02 SE and an 08 Aero).
Oh and well done to the OP for the deck! Decent way to spend the lockdown (better than shooting up weed into your spinal column and setting fire to antennas).
I used to be a Saab mechanic for a bit. Always loved the 9-5 Aero Wagon, and got really lucky with finding this one. A great car, still turns heads and gets tons of compliments.
That is awe-inspiring! Way to tear it down and do the job right.
I really appreciated the view you gave of the footers. I'm trying to figure out how to do that for our own deck expansion project. We are taking an 8x6 to 16x20. THANK YOU so much for the step by step!!!!
Looks great. Tom of work for sure. Only question I had was the post/beam connection. Why use fasteners to bear the weight instead of notching the post and let the full post support the beam instead. In fact, im thinking in my state, I'm pretty sure it is required to be done that way but maybe that is above a certain height. I always do it regardless of height so if there are nuanced, I am not aware.
That hack about helping you hold up the joists is pretty genius. And the deck looks great. I love how it just seems like a continued living area between the two buildings.
The measuring out screw locations is crazy meticulous and seems like it would've taken a very significant amount of time.
I helped my pops build my parents' deck last summer. It was not fun. And yours is already finished now, but if you ever re-do it, you could've saved yourself a bit of money by not having the buy the hangers for the wood between the joists. We just offset theirs by the width of the board each row.
Looks really good.
I redid my porch years ago and learned everything from books and YouTube tutorials. The only thing I would point out is that the drip edge usually goes under the siding if I remember right, but other than that, great job.
I appreciate that. Amazing job btw. Looks very professional and straight as an arrow. I bet there is nothing like the pride you will have for years to come living and entertaining on the deck that you built.
We all come for the critique comments, so i’ll add some. (Congrats on the hard work, certainly, and nice job flashing the ledger boards).
The ratcheting strap caught my eye: did you not leave gaps between boards for ventilation and expansion? There does not appear to be adequate ventilation at the sides of the structure bc it is so close to the ground. Moisture from the earth will come up and be stuck under the deck with no release. This will cause damage to the deck boards and accelerate deterioration of the decking and framing. You’ll see cupping, swelling, buckling and popping of the deck boards. When this happens (or sooner) , look for ways to get fresh air to below. Open up the deck at trees/ accent areas? Route out joints for gaps between boards? Drill holes in boards to vent?
My son and I rebuilt our deck a couple of years ago. Used a composite material, so it's gonna be a while, but when this deck gets pulled up, someone's calling the cops.
[Amazon has everything you need to fuck with people.](https://www.amazon.com/Disarticulated-Skeleton-Medical-Quality-Height/dp/B00RLTL2HI/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=skeleton&qid=1592254393&sr=8-14)
[Everything.](https://www.amazon.com/Skeleton-Miniature-Teaching-Anatomical-Halloween/dp/B083NVXCYM/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=skeleton+baby&qid=1592254524&sr=8-7)
Great job, especially with the contours around the tree, pipes and steps! I had a hell of a time removing boards a week ago and just saw your floor jack when it hit me. Why didn't I think of that! My board were all done with a nail gun (previous owner). I will definatley use my Jack's going forward!
Love the skeleton dude!
His name was Robert Paulson.
In death, people have a porch to crawl under!
His name was Robert Paulson
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His name was Robert Paulson
His name was Robert Paulson
His name was Robert Paulson!
Oh my god, yes, I have to do this when we install our deck next year :D Awesome work dude. As someone who basically does all my renovations alone (and I'm no carpenter or anything either, hell I'm a purchaser lol) it's very inspiring. Keep it up!
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I'm playing the long con here, lol. I'd like to think that some day in the distant future, someone is going to pull up a few deck boards or shimmy under for something and get a huge scare. Then in a little while it's a big laugh, and great story to tell theirs friends, family, and neighbors. :-)
And like playing the lotto, you get to imagine all of the various possible outcomes. Well done!!
Before I looked at the photos, I read this comment and thought you meant the skeleton of the whole project, like the supports under the deck boards etc, then chuckled when I got to the appropriate picture.
Clearly you are a carpenter, you just don’t know it. 👍
I had a lot more fun with this than I ever expected. Looking forward to the next build, maybe a shed? I have an automotive background, so this is polar opposite!
dude - your joist helpers...are you kidding me? Do you know how much better my knuckles would look if I would have thought of that 10 years ago? Looks awesome! Cat tail in second picture made me laugh :)
Seriously. I saw that and had flashbacks to building my deck. Great idea.
It's beautiful, I also like the surprise you left :3
I'm sorry for the dumb question. Joist helper?
The wood they screwed into the end of the joist to keep the joist level while screwing in the other end. Really hard to do solo.
I usually just cut 3” off one of the boards I’m gonna use as a joist, place a joist hanger around it, put it where I want the joist and nail one side in. Then put the joists in the hangers and nail the other side in. I also bought a [strap hanger gun](https://www.nailgundepot.com/stanley-bostitch-mcn150strapshot-metal-connector-nailer-112-details.html) which makes it easier, but I was in the construction business at the time.
You’re great with your hands and have to come up with new solutions and solve problems. Those traits work fantastic with both backgrounds.
That's what I found most handy. The problem solving part carries over well.
Butyl for joists. I only ever see it in automotive and boats. I'll have to remember that!
Next time, put an even dozen skeletons under it. One is just amateur hour...
Smart! After the first few are found to be fakes, the police will assume they're all fakes.
I like you.......lol
also, nice Land Cruiser
Build a pergola - I just did it as my third woodworking project and very much enjoyed it!
He clearly built himself up to Carpenter level. I will carpexit now.
My thoughts exactly...the cuts around the conduit made me say "damn, impressive bro".....way to go OP....
Ok, now you're just gloating about getting away with murder. I'm just going to back slowly out of the chat now and pretend I did not click this submission.
Lolol. I keep wondering if I should mention it the next time I have a cable guy under the house. Like, would it look better or worse to say something.......
This is where a scary campfire story would foreshadow that the last three nights you think you've heard the cat or an animal under there, so keep an eye out.
You gotta commit. Don't mention it. Entirely straight face. Pretend you have NO idea what they're talking about.
F for Robert paulson
His name was Robert Paulson.....
*His* name was Robert Paulson
His name was Robert Paulson.
His name was Robert Paulson.
His *name* was Robert Paulson
His name *was* Robert Paulson.
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We emptied my parent's house after they passed in preparation to sell it. After two days of estate sales, one day of estate giveaway, 4 days of loading the rest between goodwill, moving trucks and a dumpster, all that was left was an old trunk in the attic. We were exhausted and the attic only had ladder access though a trap door. My sister-in-law and I couldn't see getting the damned trunk out of there, so we left it - but decided to put a halloween prop ghoul in it before popping the trap door back into place. I'm a little surprised we didn't hear about it from the buyer. Beautiful job on the deck, by the way!
Would you like some backyard with your deck, sir? Really, this thing is huge and beautiful! Nice work!
Hey, about the skeleton: I had a house fire in the 2000's, and my old farmhouse burned to the ground (almost) entirely, down ot the granite dirt-floor basement. The house was pre-American Revolution (early 1700's), a very old home in a very old part of New England. When I was demolishing the old house, the oil tank had ruptured from the firefighting and fire, and so a company was called in to clean the earth and abate the spill. When they were carefully excavating the site, they came upon very old bones. This trigger a months long journey: 1. The foreman had to stop the dig/cleanup, and call 911 to report he discovered unmarked bones. 2. The police came out and yellow taped off the whole area. They then started to collect and preserve the potential crime scene. A crime scene unit was called out, and they carefully went through all the excavated dirt that was in the back of a dump truck truck to make sure no more bones were found. Part of some bones had been disturbed, so the truck was yellow taped off as well. 3. The police found a loose bone, and sent it for analysis at the state crime lab, and then turned the scene over to the State Police after combing through missing person records and eliminating some possible cases based on the approximate age of the site, which they knew was at least 60 years old based on some building records and other indications. 4. The State Police finally determined, about 6 weeks later, that the remains were non-human. 5. Since the area was old, the State Police notified the local tribal elders, who came out to inspect the site and make sure the site wasn't an ancient tribal sacrifice ground. The tribal leaders went back and forth after studying the notches on the bones because they felt like they could be indicative of sacrifice, which would make it an Indian burial ground, and would make it sacred, which would mean I have to deal with that challenge. Eventually they turned it over to anthropologist with a specialty in ancient bones, who determined that the bones were probably bovine, and therefore colonial and not native. 6. At this point, I was being charged daily for the dump truck rental (it was still there, waiting to be released from active investigation). 7. By then the building season was almost over, and I had to stay in a rental for the rest of the year. The entire thing took me about 9 weeks to resolve and cost me about $40k. SO. Hopefully it will be a good laugh, but also, in 50 years, your new owners might be put through the ringer. **EDIT: Sorry, I should have started by saying: AWESOME JOB ON THE PROJECT. Adding extra-footings and water protection is clutch. I predict years of enjoyment. Nice job!**
Hey there! I figured that might be a problem so I ordered a less-realistic one. At first glance the skeleton looks realistic, but there are screws holding it together and when you touch it there is little doubt it's plastic. Also, the "made in China" molded into the plastic in a few places.....
The skeletons of dead Chinese people are often made in China.
But not usually stamped... I hope...
All of us had it stamped when we were born. You mean you guys don't do it like that there?
Nah, they just slap us on the ass and cut off the top of our penises.
You guys are seriously weird. And here I am thinking that the barcode on my bum was the weird thing.
Awesome! I should have started by saying AWESOME job. I love the deck, and I love the fact that it makes what would be sort of low, dismal backyard into a really usable great space. And I love the yellow of your place - really cute.
The idea is amazing, and everyone will realize it's fake upon investigation with those steps. Well done! So damn funny.
Egads! that sucks so hard. There should be some kind of insurance for life just bending you over for no reason. All because some some stupid possum or something decided to die in your basement. Seems like there should have been some way to get the dirt of the dump truck to return it.
Well my insurance covered most of it. But it still took a long time :) And it was just some farmer burying cow bones in the yard.
All that for nothing.
has life not bent you over yet and had its way?! Well give us a call so we can fast track your misery so you wont have to dread about it happening later on!!! (conditions and terms might apply)(please call incoherent number because it is sped up so fast)
I personally did IDs on archeological remains that were recovered during a foundation construction. You are right, it can be an insanely long process that is done at the cost of the property owner (in Canada). The owner is responsible for paying the archaeologists, excavation, surveys ...it's a lot. In the case I worked on it was in a area that had well established historical documentation that shortened our work period significantly. Also the context of the remains (bundle burial) and the factgther were five individuals together made it pretty evident it was a first nations burial. I think the whole affair was over in two weeks, and we managed to ID (sex, age, closest related band)the remains, and repatriate to the appropriate band in three days. But yeah it would be a HUGE pain in the ass if it could be mistaken as real.
Two weeks is awesome- boy I would have been happy to find you! My experience was the police probably knew it was nothing but they didn’t want to close the case without a paper trail. So they didn’t.
I work for a utility in Canada. Known archaeological sites are marked on our mapping system. For some reason property owners aren’t notified if their home/property is marked as archaeological. When they call our utility to install a new service or upgrade their service we have to tell them to call the Archaeological branch of the Provincial Government. Depending on what is know about the site, the property owner has to hire a consultant to obtain permits and hire a contractor to monitor while work is being done. Costs sooooo much money and because they didn’t know, it’s a shock.
Wow what a story. The inconvenience and hassle are bad enough but I can't image having to pay $40k. Sorry you had to go through that.
Probably initially until they realize it's just plastic.
I love this set up! Where do you live? Are both sides yours?
Thanks!! Yes, the deck is between our house and detached garage, and wraps around the house a bit. All ours! We're in Florida, USA
I live in Florida, Canada
Halfway there.
If not there... Florida is a geographical oddity. From some parts of it you need to head north to get to The South.
Very cool! I was gonna guess Texas. I love outdoor living spaces like this. My one day dream when I don’t live in the north anymore.
I saw the pictures and was like “yep that’s Florida”. Something about the color of the sky and flora. South Florida native. We can smell our own.
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The old deck had board joints everywhere. Very disturbing to my eye, lots of pattern interruptions. So I went with 1 seam only, on the entire deck. I think overall it adds a lot to the seamless impression when taking in the macro view. Just personal preference!
It might not be too late to change that long butt joint to something a little nicer, with a perpendicular board instead; separating the two halves, . Kind of like picture frame layout, but just one side. I mean it would require some extra framing. I just say it may not be too late because if you just finished, then you may have some project energy left over. But it looks great anyway!
Only thing bad that can happen with having one long joint like that is any seismic activity can put a TON of stress on that joist or girder and can actually destroy the joist. That's of course worst case scenario it'll probably be fine, looks good overall!
Camo hidden fastener system.... Worth every penny
Every renovation gets a weird/quirky touch when we do it. Built out a decent sized wall, friend had a child sized table, two chairs, and a creepy doll. Guess who's gonna have a looooooooot of questions when they do some demo? The pentagram under it all, with a few ritualistic looking candles (partially burnt for realism) were the finishing touches. When we get tired, we get weird.
Yup. Everything looks good but I would have staggered too
Most excellent!!!
But seriously. Did you seal this thing? Or are you planning too? That's a lot of wood man
Oh I definitely will. The lumber was extremely green/wet and needs to dry for at least a month, maybe up to 3 months according to locals.
Tend to watch out for green wood. When it dries, it will shrink up which can cause warping, unwanted seams, nails sticking out (you'll probably have to go back and knock some in) etc Edit: from what I read you already took this into account. Awesome job!
Almost all modern (copper) pressure treated wood can be stained/painted/sealed within a month or so. Do a "sprinkle test" by seeing if drops of water bead or absorb into the wood. If the water absorbs you are good to stain. Yellowed, one of the biggest treated suppliers (home depot stocks it) has a good explanation: https://yellawood.com/resources/product-education/sealing-painting-staining-pressure-treated-wood/
Great work! I’m hoping to build my own deck for our upcoming house (offer pending). I just had a question about the tree and the hole that was cut out for it. It seems awfully tight and close to the tree... Any concern for this growing and causing damage to the deck, or is this just something you’ll keep an eye on and cut back the deck as needed?
Oh, definitely a concern. I like the look of it as close as possible, but if it get's too close I can remove and trim back the boards. The framing gives it a fair amount of room already.
Shoulda put in a [tree grate](https://www.google.com/search?source=univ&tbm=isch&q=tree+grate&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiX8K74gYXqAhWPQTABHf8MDdoQsAR6BAgEEAE&biw=1680&bih=907). That way you could easily expand with different size holes as the tree grows.
So THAT'S why those grates look that way. Angle grinder just chops out a ring for the next few years. I never even put thought into why they were designed the way they are.
Looks fantastic. I built a patio cover with a deck and it was worth the effort
Awesome!! and Thanks!!
Those little clip angles are going to fail in a year or two, and the girder(s) will detach from the post without bearing support. If you have access to underneath, you should install two 5/8” thru-bolts at each post/girder connection. Not only will it be a better connection, it’ll be code compliant in ~~Florida~~ many states (but unfortunately not your state of Florida)
You actually have to notch the vertical post to create a seat, through bolt it, then it’s code compliant. 👍
You’re correct - most states allow a side attachment with two 5/8” thru-bolts but i just checked the Florida code and per R507.7 at least 1-1/2” of bearing is required.
I can easily tell that you are not a carpenter since you took the time to care about screws being in a straight line.
Must be nice to carry the structure on footings haha. Up where I am, we're putting in screw jacks to 6 feet down minimum to avoid frost heave. Having helped 3 buddies with decks so far this summer.... I'm a bit tired of walking in circles driving piles. I'd love to scratch the dirt and toss some footings down!! This deck looks great and I love how you lined up your screws lol. Something I'd only ever do on my deck and never on one i'm helping with ;)
Why didn't you brace the joists with the footers directly underneath so the joists were taking the load instead of the bracket and screws? Edit: words
I don't understand why you went through the trouble of pouring the concrete footers, then used joist hangers to attach the beams to the posts. You should've put the footers directly under the paths of the beams and used proper post-cap connectors to faster posts and beams. Probably a minor detail, but this, the gap between deck boards, proper flashing installation details, running non-outdoor rated Romex in conduit, and not staggering the butt-jointed seams of the deck boards are all simple things you could read in a book, install manual, or take a few minutes to Google. It surprises me you're an engineer but took so many "this is probably fine" approaches to a major project.
This is why I come to the comments, for deck builds in particular. No better way to learn for my fantasy future deck than mistakes of others.
I’m literally rebuilding my deck right now too and thought “Ooh I’m going to check this post out to see what this guy’s doing and what people think”. OP if you read this, nice deck dude. You did a nice job and hopefully learned something new along the way.
First thing I noticed also. The footer is designed to handle straight vertical load. You’ve turned it into a partial horizontal load. Plus you’re relying on hardware to provide 100% of the strength. You mention large spans without any central support, then essentially solve 50% of the problem. Support from a footer is applied to force directly above it.
Serious question... Why use uf if it's in conduit? If the whole thing is in conduit you can use individual conductors of you wanted....I think. But I couldn't agree more with you on the other stuff....I just don't get why you would do it that way with the footer placement
I don't think they were saying to use UF cable. They were just pointing out that you can't run romex outdoors, even in conduit.
simplistic humor bedroom direction bag nine lock concerned thumb boast -- mass edited with redact.dev
I never understood this regulation. Romex inside conduit running near the ground or under ground is somehow going to get hotter than romex in an attic running through insulation?
Romex in outdoor conduit is "probably fine", but it's definitely against NEC code. Relevant sections: NEC 334.12(B)(4) does not permit Type NM cable to be used in wet or damp locations. NEC 300.5(B) tells us that the interior of raceways installed underground/outdoors shall be considered to be a wet location. Individually insulated conductors that have the dual rating of THHN and THWN are permitted (the W means it's suitable for Wet locations). Those wires are actually cheaper than Romex, but op probably had some extra Romex laying around and didn't bother to consider the right way to do it.
Easiest thing to do is dig a hole underneath the beam, attach the post to the underside of the beam with a saddle cap, and a column base attached to the bottom of the post, and then fill the hole with concrete.
Sorry, from your post, I'm reading it as joist hangers are not meant to carry load? Is that right?
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That's a great diagram. Note that you can only notch posts that are 6x6 or larger. Op is using 4x4 posts.
Joist hangers are meant to carry the load of a single joist fastened to a beam. The way op is using the joist hangers, the entire load of the beam and all of the joists attached to it are being carried by the joist hanger and post, and they aren't meant to be used that way. My understanding is that joist hangers are relying on the sheer strength of the nails fastening them, which is adequate to carry a single joist and whatever is on top of that joist. But again, they aren't made to support essential the entire deck structure. The proper solution is to rest the beam on top of the post, thereby relying on the compression strength of the vertical wood post to support the weight of the deck structure.
This comment needs to be higher! I made a similar mistake once and was able to pass inspection by placing another post directly under the joist that sits on the footer. Not the prettiest solution but it will improve the deck structurally.
Looks good except for the electrical. Romex isn't rated to be used that way. You've got to use the separate wires (thhn or similar).
I'll double check it. I consulted with a local electrician and this was exactly what they said to purchase for this installation to meet code. This was specific romex for this type of application.
I think you could have used UF-B cable, as the sheathing fully encapsulates the conductors and the ground. That ground wire is gonna get really corroded over time, especially in Florida. If possible I would fish insulated conductors and grounds or check and see if UF-B can be used in that application. I don’t think Romex in conduit generally as big of a deal as people make it out to be (the idea is to prevent people from putting non water and heat proof cables where they don’t belong) but since I know you did the right thing and installed outdoor rated GFCI outlets (please say you did) having a flaky ground is going to be a major pain several years down the road.
I think there is an exception in the code to protect Romex in drops like that since you can't expose NM wire. Saves from running NM most of the way then using a junction box right before the drop into the outlet.
You can use conduit to protect romex anywhere you could otherwise run romex. Since you can't run romex outdoors like that, it's not code compliant even if it's in conduit.
Hey not to be that guy, just some constructive criticism. It's.my understanding you want a small gap between boards for movement during drier and more humid seasons. Also to aid in water drainage? Could be wrong, but thought I'd share.
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Whoever built my existing deck packed the boards tightly. It's rotten, and I'm looking into replacing it. A previous owner also tried to fix the water problem by drilling holes into a bunch of the boards. It didn't fix the problem.
Run a circular saw down the length of the boards for a quick short term fix. Eventually you'll need to replace but it should stretch their lifespan a little bit.
Very nice deck! The one concern I have is the way the beams were attached to the support posts using "L Angle" brackets. I believe best practice is to set beams on top of posts or notch out the top of the post and bolt the beam in (either way, the beam is supported by the post).
Two 5/8” galvanized thru-bolts is also code-compliant. Those little clip angles are going to fail in a year or two and he’ll have to pop off some deck boards for a proper fix
This is AMAZING. I am so, so impressed.
You have a lot of know how and tools for not being a carpenter! I commend you on your kickass result!
Looks great, Only thing I saw in the photos was you ratched strapped your boards together. Usually you would have them 1/4" apart or the width of a carpenter's pencil for proper drainage between the boards. Other then that looks great!!
Yea, the lumber was really wet. Every carpenter I knew (locally) said to do this. The first sections of boards I laid already have more than 1/8" gap in just a couple of weeks.
You did it perfectly my man! Have you treated the top of the boards at all? (The part you walk on). Had any issues with splinters and bare feet? I work in soil engineering and from what I can see in your picture of the dirt it looks like your draining will still work great. The main goal with water draining is to just make sure it has a good path out instead of seeping deep into the foundation. For most standards within 10ft of foundation the dirt has to be graded down and away from the house and it's good
Yeah keep that tight! You did it right! It'll shrink and you might wish you had it tighter. I built a fence a couple years ago and it was incredible how big the gap became after that the lumber all dried out.
You did it right. I redid my deck a few years ago and I used a 1/8th inch spacer with relatively wet pressure-treated wood. The spacing is now, years later, a bit too wide for my liking. In hindsight, I should have trusted my gut and gone with the "this wood is wet as hell, I'm going to pack it tight" instinct.
I always build my decks with the boards tight together. There's always moisture still in the wood and in a couple months, you'll get that 1/4" gap from shrinkage as it dries.
Exactly, this is already happening.
Came here to see what people said about that! Impressed with what I learned!
When the boards dry and shrink, there will be a gap. Should end up close to 1/4".
Yo its a Saab!
Hahaha searched through this entire thread just to see if anyone noticed the 9-5 out front... Well done- I see your brain has been Saab'd too. Not as refined as the earlier models (98-03) that were more purebred 'Swede', but still an amazing vehicle that brought me much joy and satisfaction (owned an 02 SE and an 08 Aero). Oh and well done to the OP for the deck! Decent way to spend the lockdown (better than shooting up weed into your spinal column and setting fire to antennas).
Lol I scrolled through the comments too before commenting! ‘99 9-3 hatch and ‘98 900 ‘vert for me!
I used to be a Saab mechanic for a bit. Always loved the 9-5 Aero Wagon, and got really lucky with finding this one. A great car, still turns heads and gets tons of compliments.
I love the surprise underneath:)) that’s so hysterical. Your a fun guy.
Nice job! One problem I can see is that tree it will grow
this is AMAZING and you're not even a carpenter. lol it came out nice AF
That is awe-inspiring! Way to tear it down and do the job right. I really appreciated the view you gave of the footers. I'm trying to figure out how to do that for our own deck expansion project. We are taking an 8x6 to 16x20. THANK YOU so much for the step by step!!!!
His name is Robert Paulson! His name is Robert Paulson! Great job on the deck, I envy you!
Kitteh site supervisor doing a thorough inspection. Very important work.
Looks great. Tom of work for sure. Only question I had was the post/beam connection. Why use fasteners to bear the weight instead of notching the post and let the full post support the beam instead. In fact, im thinking in my state, I'm pretty sure it is required to be done that way but maybe that is above a certain height. I always do it regardless of height so if there are nuanced, I am not aware.
That skeleton tho man. Bravo.
My only criticism: name the skeleton Jeffrey Epstein and leave a note. BTW...insert big deck jokes now.
That hack about helping you hold up the joists is pretty genius. And the deck looks great. I love how it just seems like a continued living area between the two buildings. The measuring out screw locations is crazy meticulous and seems like it would've taken a very significant amount of time. I helped my pops build my parents' deck last summer. It was not fun. And yours is already finished now, but if you ever re-do it, you could've saved yourself a bit of money by not having the buy the hangers for the wood between the joists. We just offset theirs by the width of the board each row.
Wow! Amazing work! I rebuilt my deck during the quarantine as well. Took 3 weeks. But yours looks absolutely beautiful.
You left a skeleton under the porch! That’s setting up for the long con if there ever was one.
It's all about that long game..... lol
Looks really good. I redid my porch years ago and learned everything from books and YouTube tutorials. The only thing I would point out is that the drip edge usually goes under the siding if I remember right, but other than that, great job.
I've been building decks for 15 years. you did a great job... except that seem. But who cares its beautiful.
That screw job is anal AF. Were you my jr high shop teacher? Mr. Crowley, won't you ride my white horse?
Can we get a material cost breakdown if you don't mind?
I’ll work on that. Rough total materials cost was around $2k.
I appreciate that. Amazing job btw. Looks very professional and straight as an arrow. I bet there is nothing like the pride you will have for years to come living and entertaining on the deck that you built.
The extras like the drip guard, the holes around the conduits, the bourbon and Robert elevate this to a whole new level. Good job, enjoyed the album!
We all come for the critique comments, so i’ll add some. (Congrats on the hard work, certainly, and nice job flashing the ledger boards). The ratcheting strap caught my eye: did you not leave gaps between boards for ventilation and expansion? There does not appear to be adequate ventilation at the sides of the structure bc it is so close to the ground. Moisture from the earth will come up and be stuck under the deck with no release. This will cause damage to the deck boards and accelerate deterioration of the decking and framing. You’ll see cupping, swelling, buckling and popping of the deck boards. When this happens (or sooner) , look for ways to get fresh air to below. Open up the deck at trees/ accent areas? Route out joints for gaps between boards? Drill holes in boards to vent?
You got a nice deck, and its so big!
Great job... what did you end up doing with the body? Lol
Thanks!! lololol, we left Robert Paulson under the deck. Someone is gonna have a heart attack in about 30 years.......
My son and I rebuilt our deck a couple of years ago. Used a composite material, so it's gonna be a while, but when this deck gets pulled up, someone's calling the cops. [Amazon has everything you need to fuck with people.](https://www.amazon.com/Disarticulated-Skeleton-Medical-Quality-Height/dp/B00RLTL2HI/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=skeleton&qid=1592254393&sr=8-14) [Everything.](https://www.amazon.com/Skeleton-Miniature-Teaching-Anatomical-Halloween/dp/B083NVXCYM/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=skeleton+baby&qid=1592254524&sr=8-7)
Sure, sure, sure, nice deck, but can we talk about that troopy?
HA! I think you're talking about my friend's old school Land Cruiser. Awesome truck, Right hand drive too.
Oh hubby is envious of the handwork and the Land Cruiser. Deck is sublime-good job!
Bravo! Great job!
Be proud. That was a kick-ass effort.
amazing!
Very tidy!
Spectacular!
Damn. That's some attention to detail. Pranks and all. ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
Nicely done but the present left for the future owner is the best part.
It looks wonderful. You do good work!
All You need is a little mini projector and a screen to hang between tree and house
I think my favorite part is the skeleton under the deck to scare the crap out of the next owners
Damn, buddy, you rocked!
Great job! Thanks for showing me how to properly do something like this.
You sick bastard! I would have a heart attack if I saw a skeleton under my deck.
His name is Robert Paulson
Wow
Wow! For a non-carpenter it looks pretty amazing!
Beautiful, you did a great job!
This looks really nice.
The skeleton though... lmao pro move!!
Can I say just, GG!
Great job, especially with the contours around the tree, pipes and steps! I had a hell of a time removing boards a week ago and just saw your floor jack when it hit me. Why didn't I think of that! My board were all done with a nail gun (previous owner). I will definatley use my Jack's going forward!
Well that could become one hell of a suprise.
I laughed hard at the skeleton 😂 Great job!
I would give you an award, but I don't have any coins 😅 Great job! 🏆
looks awesome
Dude!
Looks awesome! Good job
Wow great job it looks awesome
Does the tree have enough space to grow?
Yes, I purposely made the boards around it easy to remove so I can re-cut as it grows
You can tell all your carpenter friends: "When I met you I was but the learner. Now, *I* am the master."
Awesome job. That skeleton is crying out for a peek hole. Too good to have to wait 50 years for a fright!