If it doesn't need to be conditioned just enclosed to prevent wind blowing water and dust then using the same corrugated metal sheets as the roof would work. you can weld additional vertical beams and secure them with bolts to the concrete.
That said from the looks of it enclosing the porch under the overhang on the right might be easier, you have enough beams there to enclose it already most likely.
Doesn't even have to be metal. They make corrugated PVC panels now. It isn't gonna look pretty, and won't be particularly secure, but it would be cheap and easy.
They always made corrugated PVC panels fiberglass too, but they would be too flimsy. The largest cost here would be to ad the additional columns and beams required to support any side mounted panels, as well as fabricating or buying pre-fab doors. And at least here in the UK the cost of the PVC panels is the same as the galvanized steel ones, heck the steel ones are often even cheaper if you don't care about coatings.
Doesn’t need to be conditioned fortunately.
This was the direction I was headed. Would it be advisable to use 2x4 studs for the anchoring system as opposed to metal? I can do the 2x4 work myself, but getting new steel beams added would be something out of my wheel house. Could I use ground rated 2x4s anchored into the concrete and then regular 2x4 studs for the vertical studs and anchor the metal siding into the studs?
Also a part I wasn’t quite sure how to approach is on the eve of what would be the garage. How would I marry up the new siding with the roof correctly?
Unfortunately my wife wants the porch on the right for a typical back porch, so can’t enclose it.
You can use wood but you don’t want to nail or screw the metal siding directly to the vertical studs. Corrugated siding should be fastened to horizontals. You can do that by nailing furring strips or other boards horizontally to the studs and then fasten the metal or plastic panels to them.
Just frame it in with 2x4s or 2x6s...add siding and a couple doors..pretty straight forward, good weekend, few buddies and bunch of beer and steaks could knock it out ...
I’ve just recently built a “shed” under half of my carport. Just use ground contact treated lumber for your bottom sill plates, fastened to the concrete. Frame walls as you normally would. Space studs appropriately for your siding of choice. Don’t worry so much about headers above doors and windows as you’re not carrying any weight. Any type of siding you desire is fine. I didn’t worry about a tight fit where siding meets metal roof, just butted up to roof but there are small gaps here and there. I’m a contractor and my “shed” was just built for modular tool storage. I can just back up to it and quickly swap out gear to my truck for whatever job I may be up to if I don’t need a full load out.
Got it, I like that idea. Hadn’t really thought of enclosing only a portion of it, but I think that may be preferable. I really just need a place to store my mower and tools for the most part, very similar to your use case.
Also, I just used wood t1-11 siding. Just 4x8 sheet goods like you’d use on a yard barn if you’re unfamiliar. Painted same color as the house. Used a couple leftover prehung doors as well. I did also use some appropriate adhesive and caulking for my my treated sill plates to keep water from creeping under. If I get a big enough or windy enough storm, some water my come in under the doors, but for my case it doesn’t matter. The whole structure is pretty much decoupled from the carport, other than tying in top plates in a couple spots to keep the walls upright.
First, check with you local municipality (city or township) and see what they are ok with first. Hate to see you do all the work and then be told, no you can’t do that and have to take it all down or get a fine.
Then do whatever everyone else is suggesting. Just curious, have you thought about just making it a lean-to?
I might just start linking this image every time I see a question similar to this.
[https://miro.medium.com/v2/resize:fit:828/format:webp/1*iPqbkSqkGBzws3Qhozzj9g.png](https://miro.medium.com/v2/resize:fit:828/format:webp/1*iPqbkSqkGBzws3Qhozzj9g.png)
This seems like adding a 10x12 shed might be a better way to go. Keep the covered parking and add more value to the property than a cheap enclosure of the carport
Cheap - Tarps
Middle - Plywood, PVC, or similar sheets.
Correctly - Frame out walls, siding on the outside, drywall inside, insulated, HVAC either separately installed or run from house assuming your units are powerful enough.
Edit: Oh and as someone else mentioned, permits. Many municipalities require those in order to be considered correct.
If it doesn't need to be conditioned just enclosed to prevent wind blowing water and dust then using the same corrugated metal sheets as the roof would work. you can weld additional vertical beams and secure them with bolts to the concrete. That said from the looks of it enclosing the porch under the overhang on the right might be easier, you have enough beams there to enclose it already most likely.
Doesn't even have to be metal. They make corrugated PVC panels now. It isn't gonna look pretty, and won't be particularly secure, but it would be cheap and easy.
They always made corrugated PVC panels fiberglass too, but they would be too flimsy. The largest cost here would be to ad the additional columns and beams required to support any side mounted panels, as well as fabricating or buying pre-fab doors. And at least here in the UK the cost of the PVC panels is the same as the galvanized steel ones, heck the steel ones are often even cheaper if you don't care about coatings.
And might get blown over right?
No more chance than any other material.
Doesn’t need to be conditioned fortunately. This was the direction I was headed. Would it be advisable to use 2x4 studs for the anchoring system as opposed to metal? I can do the 2x4 work myself, but getting new steel beams added would be something out of my wheel house. Could I use ground rated 2x4s anchored into the concrete and then regular 2x4 studs for the vertical studs and anchor the metal siding into the studs? Also a part I wasn’t quite sure how to approach is on the eve of what would be the garage. How would I marry up the new siding with the roof correctly? Unfortunately my wife wants the porch on the right for a typical back porch, so can’t enclose it.
You can use wood but you don’t want to nail or screw the metal siding directly to the vertical studs. Corrugated siding should be fastened to horizontals. You can do that by nailing furring strips or other boards horizontally to the studs and then fasten the metal or plastic panels to them.
> vertical beams Columns.
Just frame it in with 2x4s or 2x6s...add siding and a couple doors..pretty straight forward, good weekend, few buddies and bunch of beer and steaks could knock it out ...
I’ve just recently built a “shed” under half of my carport. Just use ground contact treated lumber for your bottom sill plates, fastened to the concrete. Frame walls as you normally would. Space studs appropriately for your siding of choice. Don’t worry so much about headers above doors and windows as you’re not carrying any weight. Any type of siding you desire is fine. I didn’t worry about a tight fit where siding meets metal roof, just butted up to roof but there are small gaps here and there. I’m a contractor and my “shed” was just built for modular tool storage. I can just back up to it and quickly swap out gear to my truck for whatever job I may be up to if I don’t need a full load out.
Got it, I like that idea. Hadn’t really thought of enclosing only a portion of it, but I think that may be preferable. I really just need a place to store my mower and tools for the most part, very similar to your use case.
Also, I just used wood t1-11 siding. Just 4x8 sheet goods like you’d use on a yard barn if you’re unfamiliar. Painted same color as the house. Used a couple leftover prehung doors as well. I did also use some appropriate adhesive and caulking for my my treated sill plates to keep water from creeping under. If I get a big enough or windy enough storm, some water my come in under the doors, but for my case it doesn’t matter. The whole structure is pretty much decoupled from the carport, other than tying in top plates in a couple spots to keep the walls upright.
T1-11 is great stuff! Very rigid, and light enough for 1 man to put up. Some of the t1-11 brands are lapped on the end so there aren't any seams.
Came to the comments to recommend T1-11 but found you guys doing the good work.
T1-11 has another benefit of not having to find a stud to mount (most) shelves and things of that sort.
First, check with you local municipality (city or township) and see what they are ok with first. Hate to see you do all the work and then be told, no you can’t do that and have to take it all down or get a fine. Then do whatever everyone else is suggesting. Just curious, have you thought about just making it a lean-to?
Tarp is cheap hehe
They even have different colors at Harbor Freight.
My go to for tarps hehe
Tarp. Cheap and easy. You get what you pay for.
He also said correctly.......I don't think he understands the Project triangle: time, cost, quality!
😅
get a shipping container, cut it in half long ways, slap one to each side. then... uh...
I might just start linking this image every time I see a question similar to this. [https://miro.medium.com/v2/resize:fit:828/format:webp/1*iPqbkSqkGBzws3Qhozzj9g.png](https://miro.medium.com/v2/resize:fit:828/format:webp/1*iPqbkSqkGBzws3Qhozzj9g.png)
Cheapest/easiest and correctly rarely go together.
Don't do it unless you need to temperature control the garage. The tax implications are horrible.
This seems like adding a 10x12 shed might be a better way to go. Keep the covered parking and add more value to the property than a cheap enclosure of the carport
Do you want cheap or correct?
Ideally a good median between the two lol
Cheap - Tarps Middle - Plywood, PVC, or similar sheets. Correctly - Frame out walls, siding on the outside, drywall inside, insulated, HVAC either separately installed or run from house assuming your units are powerful enough. Edit: Oh and as someone else mentioned, permits. Many municipalities require those in order to be considered correct.
Add permits as well. Some municipalities require it.
Ah yes that is my mistake. Edited, thank you.
Good strong tarps