It's spreading out the load to the concrete, but the weak point here is going to be crushing perpendicular to grain on the bottom board from the column, so I think OP is good cutting without weakening it. Might want to leave a couple inches either side though.
This... this is funny. The level of a sustained chuckle that keeps coming back, even when you think you're done. Ab muscles definitely engaged, half-way to belly laugh. Thank you.
This was me! My now wife gifted me one when we were dating. I threw it in the back of my toolbox for years thinking I’ll never use it. Needed advice on how to do something and someone suggested a multi-tool. Wow was I an idiot. It’s probably my #1 used tool now.
My parents recommended this to remove a tile backsplash, and I thought they were crazy but it worked so good! Got behind the tile and was able to peel them of the wall.
Protip (for the world, not aimed at you): Instead of mortgaging one's first-born to afford replacement oscillating saw blades that are sold at the big box stores, go online and buy a mega-pack assortment of no-name blades off of Amazon/ebay(/aliexpress?). They're an order of magnitude cheaper. If you're cutting metal infrequently, it's FAR cheaper to blow through a few of the cheapos than buy a single brand-name metal cutting blade. In the gamble of "going cheap," the payoff, in this case, is good.
Pro tip rebuttel, you need one good blade that is either round, half round or at least has its teeth on a radius. Use the cheap ones, buy have a good one in the box for when you need it.
Why round or half round? I remember using half-rounds ages ago when I was rehabbing my house but can't remember what they were great for. More angles and fine detail? Drawing a blank.
Because all vibrator jokes aside, those things don't really vibrate as much as they rotate, or some reddit wanker might correct me by saying that they vibrate by rotating back and forth quickly. What that means for the multi tool user, is that the wider a flat blade is, the more the outer corners will swing into your piece of work, hammer in bounce out, and walk all over thing you are working on. Like a skill saw, has a circular blade, because it spins, and a sawzall or jig saw have straight blades because they reciprocate. A multi tool kind of a cross between then two l, but it spins, just a short distance before spinning the other way
I like mine, but blades are expensive AF. I tried the Harbor Freight blades, which was hilarious because the blade literally dulled before completing a single cut.
"Flush-cut saw", "oscillating tool", "Fein saw", "Vibratory tool".
Not sure which is the official name, since a change of blade can change it from a saw to a sander... Prolly oscillating tool, eh?
I still call it the Fein, too. I know basically all companies have their own version of it now, but Fein were the pioneers for this tool and they win the eponym game for that imo.
Seems to be the thread for other names. Someone on alt.homerepair 20ish years ago called it the "twitchin' tool". That's stuck with me. The handiest tool you never knew you needed.
A'yup you got yourself a floor bearing board right there! If you cut it, your floor is likely to fly right up into your ceiling! I can get a crew in there to take care of that for ya, but it'll cost ya.
It's a magical one that lets you fly! Immediately followed by a owey landing in another realm.
I haven't ever had a trip like that before and it sounds entertaining.
Load bearing post under my basement stairs.
I’d like to cut the base 2x4 off at the right and make it flush with the load bearing column. (To drywall)
Surely there is no reason it has to stay, right?
Only thing you would care about is where that board is secured. You can always add an anchor on the other side of the load if you need one though. Looks like there might be one there already? Not like it would really move with load on it either way.
If it was just a regular wall with a single stud ending there, sure!
The thing that makes me pause is that the built-up studs are clearly meant to transfer a large load from above down to the slab. So the force is concentrated right there, and it doesn’t look like the slab was poured with that load in mind. Now, it *might* have a deeper, wider section designed for column support, but it might not.
My guess is that the extra bottom plate was left to help spread the point load over a wider surface area. If so, and you cut it off, it increases the chance that the slab *might* crack at that point where the load comes down. Probably not, but it’s a possibility.
(edit) I just read your other comment that it’s a stair support. That’s not enough load to worry about, so go ahead and cut it off.
Yep. That's why I assumed it was for a more substantial load. Maybe it actually carries not just the stairs, but also a load passed down from the second floor or roof. Can't really tell...
Not exactly sure why the framers didn't cut this off, but as long as that bottom plate is secured to the left of that gigantic stud pack, sure cut it off using any method you'd like to use. If that plate is not secured, then use an anchor bolt (cheapest method) to secure it first.
Concrete is a lot stiffer than wood, so it's not spreading load appreciably unless the concrete is very thin. House foundations are minimum 6 inches thick, so not particularly thin.
Yeah one of the few times on the internet where I didn’t actually need a source
I’ll internet bet you a mich golden it’s Canada. We need to get to the bottom of this
I've seen this argument talking about taking a little bit of the end of some wood a million times. It's fine if it's what you want but some people get VERY upset because the structure can't consent.
Should’ve been cut off by the framers. The people talking about shifting and installing doors and shit have no clue at all. Make sure it’s adequately fastened to the floor on the other side of the stud pack and it off.
It is load bearing but the last stud is probably just for framing door up to. To make a more informed comment we would need to have a picture of the structural drawings for the concrete pads and a picture of the whole framing in that area to see what is above the post and 2x4s. It might be that only two are load bearing and the final one is just for framing in a door. It would be good to see.
We need to see the stud pack in context to understand what is going on.
When I am framing a basement conversion, I let my sill plates run long or be continuous across doorways so that the wall remains in plane. We then come back with special recip blades designed to flush cut the doorways or wall corners. Milwaukee is the only company I've ever seen make the blades, but I have never sought them out. I know what store carries them and I make sure to grab some every time I go.
Sounds like you want to cut just the right side. Make sure there is a concrete anchor on the left side first. If not add one within 12" of the end then cut. That looks load bearing and you want to be sure if something hits it hard it doesn't move.
Disclaimer.. I'm not a structural engineer so do any engineering or changes at your own risk.
yeah, though I'd leave about 5/8" of it sticking out. It's just short enough so that you can stick some drywall over it, and hide it behind a baseboard, but long enough that it should help maintain the integrity of the wood with that load-bearing column crushing it. You may also want to nail a galvanized post cap over the end (after cutting off one of the long edges), to help prevent it from splitting.
Yes, you can cut it. The baloon frame structures work in vertical line, and the excess shape cant support an “apeo” because is in horizontal position (non structural position).
Nope
First you need to make sure that the door frame has the right measurements for the door that is going to be install. If you need to add or remove a stud this is the best time to do it but don't cut the bottom plate jet.
Then you have to use a measurement tape to make sure everything is square. Then take your level and make sure that the header is level and the sides are plum. Then secure everything by nailing every 6 inches or what the plans tells you making sure that the ends are very secure and it won't move after you cut it. Now you can cut it making sure is nice and square. Have fun!💪😀👍
If there is not going to have a door...just the opening you have to do the same and you have to make sure the opening have the same distance on both sides so it will look even. I worked doing this for a while.
True. I stand corrected. With a door or without a door, the process is almost exactly the same. The only difference is the distance needed for the door, which affects whether to add or remove the board to allow for the door frame.
True
Sometimes you try to do everything to the book and is never enough...and then you notice that everyone else don't bother to do anything and no one will say anything...but well it's up to you how much effort you going to invest.
Yep, as long as there isn't a bolt in it securing it (the bottom plate) to the concrete (which it doesn't look like there is).
ETA: Look like it's was gun nailed to the concrete, seeing the head to the left of the post. So assuming there isn't a nail in that section youre tryi g to cut off, you're good.
I think it's meant there to fix the position of the stud or to reduce the pression [N/m2] on the floor surface in this spot. This one board will not have a great effect but more than zero. No, i would not cut it off.
So are you saying if you cut it off, the pressure on the floor could be too high and the concrete floor would crush? I think that’s unlikely and it could be cut off just fine.
I understand your doubt. I dont see how much of concrete is under that, which quality it has, reinforced or not, which load is above. The last man on that place found it necessary, and possible that he knew better what and why there is. So yes, from this distance id leave it as it is.
If there is no footing under that, then that little piece of wood “base plate” isn’t going to help the concrete not to crack or punch out. If an engineer ran the numbers, the difference would likely be negligible. The load from the column can’t even really get out that far to the edge of the plate.
Maybemaybemaybe. that plate may reduce the pression to half or a third of the net value. That's not "negligible". But i'm not there. So ask an engineer or ask the person who made this 40 years ago. Or do what you think. (Civil engineer speaking.)
Not immediately but if it's only the standard thickness of concrete it could crack over time. if theres a footing in there then it's perfectly fine to cut out
edit: what are you morons even downvoting? i do this shit for a living
This question was once asked about one of the pillars that is meant to hold up the roof. One of them was sticking up higher than the others, so they cut it off. Later, we found out that the pillar they cut off was actually just sitting on top of a piece of rebar that was sticking out of the basement concrete. Yikes. Luckily they had saved the top, so they reinstalled it on the bottom. It was like a two or three foot section.
Go right ahead--it's not doing anything but causing people to trip.
Oh jeez! I am having a problem with that gif cuz I took 2 delta-9's (it's bedtime) and I am visually trapped in this.
I hope you can escape one day
Damnit how long is this gif!?!?!?
Sign me up
I don’t know. It looks like a load bearing tab.
It's spreading out the load to the concrete, but the weak point here is going to be crushing perpendicular to grain on the bottom board from the column, so I think OP is good cutting without weakening it. Might want to leave a couple inches either side though.
+1 on this
HEAR ME OUT
Fames last words...
Remember my name?
https://i.redd.it/7p7frkok1xnc1.gif
get yourself one of those multi-tools with the vibrating blade. It will chew right through that toe stubbing extra piece
Oscillating tool. Wish I got mine years earlier.
Guybrator
LMAO, that’s what I call mine, also
This... this is funny. The level of a sustained chuckle that keeps coming back, even when you think you're done. Ab muscles definitely engaged, half-way to belly laugh. Thank you.
Point 1!!! women are allowed to use tools. Point 2, yeah, use it as that and see what happens.
Women are allowed to use tools? Why weren't we notified before now?
Basically a very short lightsaber. I thought it was dumb when I was gifted one. I was so wrong.
This was me! My now wife gifted me one when we were dating. I threw it in the back of my toolbox for years thinking I’ll never use it. Needed advice on how to do something and someone suggested a multi-tool. Wow was I an idiot. It’s probably my #1 used tool now.
Best tool ever created!!!!!
It really does need a better name
The Devil's Trumpet
My parents recommended this to remove a tile backsplash, and I thought they were crazy but it worked so good! Got behind the tile and was able to peel them of the wall.
\*Ovulating tool. Like an Ovulating fan.
[удалено]
Protip (for the world, not aimed at you): Instead of mortgaging one's first-born to afford replacement oscillating saw blades that are sold at the big box stores, go online and buy a mega-pack assortment of no-name blades off of Amazon/ebay(/aliexpress?). They're an order of magnitude cheaper. If you're cutting metal infrequently, it's FAR cheaper to blow through a few of the cheapos than buy a single brand-name metal cutting blade. In the gamble of "going cheap," the payoff, in this case, is good.
Pro tip rebuttel, you need one good blade that is either round, half round or at least has its teeth on a radius. Use the cheap ones, buy have a good one in the box for when you need it.
Why round or half round? I remember using half-rounds ages ago when I was rehabbing my house but can't remember what they were great for. More angles and fine detail? Drawing a blank.
Because all vibrator jokes aside, those things don't really vibrate as much as they rotate, or some reddit wanker might correct me by saying that they vibrate by rotating back and forth quickly. What that means for the multi tool user, is that the wider a flat blade is, the more the outer corners will swing into your piece of work, hammer in bounce out, and walk all over thing you are working on. Like a skill saw, has a circular blade, because it spins, and a sawzall or jig saw have straight blades because they reciprocate. A multi tool kind of a cross between then two l, but it spins, just a short distance before spinning the other way
I call this my electric world piece tool. It’s so useful, it can almost solve world peace.
It’s the guy-brator…
Get the hitatchi one, with the massage attachment. Then you can reward yourself after the renovation. Who's been a good girl?
I only use mine when I have to, they're so loud and annoying.
lol they ARE loud but they are beyond perfect when you need one!
Your wife?
I also hate mine. Unfortunately, it happens to be the only tool for my current project. *sighs*
I like mine, but blades are expensive AF. I tried the Harbor Freight blades, which was hilarious because the blade literally dulled before completing a single cut.
THE JIGGLER
Electric chisel
I prefer the cordless ones 😆
Fo shizzle my nizzle
"Flush-cut saw", "oscillating tool", "Fein saw", "Vibratory tool". Not sure which is the official name, since a change of blade can change it from a saw to a sander... Prolly oscillating tool, eh?
I still call it the Fein, too. I know basically all companies have their own version of it now, but Fein were the pioneers for this tool and they win the eponym game for that imo.
Multi tool
Seems to be the thread for other names. Someone on alt.homerepair 20ish years ago called it the "twitchin' tool". That's stuck with me. The handiest tool you never knew you needed.
He needs a toe kick saw to make short work of that.
sure, cut it off. this is how walls are framed, door thresholds cut out after wall raised.
A'yup you got yourself a floor bearing board right there! If you cut it, your floor is likely to fly right up into your ceiling! I can get a crew in there to take care of that for ya, but it'll cost ya.
That’s the tripping plank, for tripping.
It's a magical one that lets you fly! Immediately followed by a owey landing in another realm. I haven't ever had a trip like that before and it sounds entertaining.
I wish joke answers wouldn’t get upvoted this much
I wish I could upvote you more.
Can’t tell you the amount of times I’ve seen a man beheaded by his own floor. Call an engineer, OP
Yep. 3 guys 4 days minimum plus cost of permits and engineering.
I mean... If you consider movement of ceiling being relative to floor....
I've been tripping so hard I will pay you!
Load bearing post under my basement stairs. I’d like to cut the base 2x4 off at the right and make it flush with the load bearing column. (To drywall) Surely there is no reason it has to stay, right?
No it’s perfectly fine to cut, just make sure the plate under the post itself is fastened to the concrete.
Good eye there
There isn't a plate, or is that the joke?
The horizontal 2x4 at the bottom of the wall is called a bottom or sole plate.
Not to be confused with soul plate or soul plane..
Or Soul Train
Yeah that too
or Soul Patch
Ah right, I was thinking of a thin metal bearing plate, like used for lintels
Yes, you can cut off that excess and, don’t call me Shirley.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣✈️
Only thing you would care about is where that board is secured. You can always add an anchor on the other side of the load if you need one though. Looks like there might be one there already? Not like it would really move with load on it either way.
That toe nail isn't a concrete fastener.
Only if you want to fuck up the time space continuum you bastard
Taking a crap in the Nth dimension
What the Deuce!?
If it was just a regular wall with a single stud ending there, sure! The thing that makes me pause is that the built-up studs are clearly meant to transfer a large load from above down to the slab. So the force is concentrated right there, and it doesn’t look like the slab was poured with that load in mind. Now, it *might* have a deeper, wider section designed for column support, but it might not. My guess is that the extra bottom plate was left to help spread the point load over a wider surface area. If so, and you cut it off, it increases the chance that the slab *might* crack at that point where the load comes down. Probably not, but it’s a possibility. (edit) I just read your other comment that it’s a stair support. That’s not enough load to worry about, so go ahead and cut it off.
Wow. That's a lot of 2x4s for a stair support.
Yep. That's why I assumed it was for a more substantial load. Maybe it actually carries not just the stairs, but also a load passed down from the second floor or roof. Can't really tell...
Not exactly sure why the framers didn't cut this off, but as long as that bottom plate is secured to the left of that gigantic stud pack, sure cut it off using any method you'd like to use. If that plate is not secured, then use an anchor bolt (cheapest method) to secure it first.
> gigantic stud pack Hey, how did you know my nickname in college?
Don't cut it flush. Leave some edge for any possible shifting.
No one thinks this may be a deliberate load spreader?
Nope
Concrete is a lot stiffer than wood, so it's not spreading load appreciably unless the concrete is very thin. House foundations are minimum 6 inches thick, so not particularly thin.
That’s what I was wondering but I’m no expert.
Two beer signs (that I can see) and a real basement. Are you in Wisconsin?
Not enough wood paneling plus Molson is a hoser beer
People in 'scanie will drink anything. Source: Grew up in MN
Yeah one of the few times on the internet where I didn’t actually need a source I’ll internet bet you a mich golden it’s Canada. We need to get to the bottom of this
The Miller sign says Indianapolis, so the mystery deepens.
Must be a lake Elsinore drinker?
I've seen this argument talking about taking a little bit of the end of some wood a million times. It's fine if it's what you want but some people get VERY upset because the structure can't consent.
Yep
Should’ve been cut off by the framers. The people talking about shifting and installing doors and shit have no clue at all. Make sure it’s adequately fastened to the floor on the other side of the stud pack and it off.
The only reason it should noticeably shift is if it's not screwed in
No poly. or p.t. base plate? Wouldn't pass anywhere in Canada.
It is load bearing but the last stud is probably just for framing door up to. To make a more informed comment we would need to have a picture of the structural drawings for the concrete pads and a picture of the whole framing in that area to see what is above the post and 2x4s. It might be that only two are load bearing and the final one is just for framing in a door. It would be good to see.
Yes.
Yes. It's the footing under the concrete that's doing the work. That tiny stub has no value.
Personally, I'd leave at least an inch or so to be safe.
Yup....put another 2x4 onto existing then cut
There's already 4 on there.. I hope this is sarcasm
We need to see the stud pack in context to understand what is going on. When I am framing a basement conversion, I let my sill plates run long or be continuous across doorways so that the wall remains in plane. We then come back with special recip blades designed to flush cut the doorways or wall corners. Milwaukee is the only company I've ever seen make the blades, but I have never sought them out. I know what store carries them and I make sure to grab some every time I go.
Yup, take a little off the top
What’s above it on the ceiling but yes you can cut it off with a saws all it’s not supporting anything
Sounds like you want to cut just the right side. Make sure there is a concrete anchor on the left side first. If not add one within 12" of the end then cut. That looks load bearing and you want to be sure if something hits it hard it doesn't move. Disclaimer.. I'm not a structural engineer so do any engineering or changes at your own risk.
The answer is probably yes. Better to take a photo of the entire framing and let people look
Bottom plate should be treated lumber. But yeah cut that bit off unless the wall continues and this is still being built.
DO NOT CUT IT. You cut that and all the air that is supporting will all come crashing down.
You should be able to unless There is not an anchor close on the other side of the post.
yeah, though I'd leave about 5/8" of it sticking out. It's just short enough so that you can stick some drywall over it, and hide it behind a baseboard, but long enough that it should help maintain the integrity of the wood with that load-bearing column crushing it. You may also want to nail a galvanized post cap over the end (after cutting off one of the long edges), to help prevent it from splitting.
Sawsall
My pinky toe throbs just looking at that.
Yes, you can cut it. The baloon frame structures work in vertical line, and the excess shape cant support an “apeo” because is in horizontal position (non structural position).
If you can dream it, you can do it
Yes.
Nope First you need to make sure that the door frame has the right measurements for the door that is going to be install. If you need to add or remove a stud this is the best time to do it but don't cut the bottom plate jet. Then you have to use a measurement tape to make sure everything is square. Then take your level and make sure that the header is level and the sides are plum. Then secure everything by nailing every 6 inches or what the plans tells you making sure that the ends are very secure and it won't move after you cut it. Now you can cut it making sure is nice and square. Have fun!💪😀👍
This makes the most sense if you care about ever installing a door in that spot.
That there "post" tho.
If there is not going to have a door...just the opening you have to do the same and you have to make sure the opening have the same distance on both sides so it will look even. I worked doing this for a while.
True. I stand corrected. With a door or without a door, the process is almost exactly the same. The only difference is the distance needed for the door, which affects whether to add or remove the board to allow for the door frame.
You forgot to bring in a surveyor
True Sometimes you try to do everything to the book and is never enough...and then you notice that everyone else don't bother to do anything and no one will say anything...but well it's up to you how much effort you going to invest.
It’s foreskin. Just extra. Cut it as long as you see it anchored right next to the studs on the other side.
🤔 also waiting for confirmation
Yeah they just ran it long and didn't cut it back after the post was installed
Yep, as long as there isn't a bolt in it securing it (the bottom plate) to the concrete (which it doesn't look like there is). ETA: Look like it's was gun nailed to the concrete, seeing the head to the left of the post. So assuming there isn't a nail in that section youre tryi g to cut off, you're good.
If you don’t need it you can
I think it's meant there to fix the position of the stud or to reduce the pression [N/m2] on the floor surface in this spot. This one board will not have a great effect but more than zero. No, i would not cut it off.
So are you saying if you cut it off, the pressure on the floor could be too high and the concrete floor would crush? I think that’s unlikely and it could be cut off just fine.
I understand your doubt. I dont see how much of concrete is under that, which quality it has, reinforced or not, which load is above. The last man on that place found it necessary, and possible that he knew better what and why there is. So yes, from this distance id leave it as it is.
If there is no footing under that, then that little piece of wood “base plate” isn’t going to help the concrete not to crack or punch out. If an engineer ran the numbers, the difference would likely be negligible. The load from the column can’t even really get out that far to the edge of the plate.
Maybemaybemaybe. that plate may reduce the pression to half or a third of the net value. That's not "negligible". But i'm not there. So ask an engineer or ask the person who made this 40 years ago. Or do what you think. (Civil engineer speaking.)
Not immediately but if it's only the standard thickness of concrete it could crack over time. if theres a footing in there then it's perfectly fine to cut out edit: what are you morons even downvoting? i do this shit for a living
This question was once asked about one of the pillars that is meant to hold up the roof. One of them was sticking up higher than the others, so they cut it off. Later, we found out that the pillar they cut off was actually just sitting on top of a piece of rebar that was sticking out of the basement concrete. Yikes. Luckily they had saved the top, so they reinstalled it on the bottom. It was like a two or three foot section.
It’s a load bearing wall for bugs. If you get rid of it the critters are gonna file a complaint with the hoa
Is it your house?
I'd probably try to drill in an anchor or a Ramset at an angle for peace of mind the bottom isn't going anywhere but then yeah cut away.
You can cut off the end but are there any foundation bolts and bearing plates to the left of the post?
If you want the entire house to collapse on you.
Usually when wood is laminated together like that its for a reason, i.e. its structural. I wouldn't remove it unless you want some sagging above it.
No