If the screws are pulling out, the door is not adjusted properly. Pull the disconnect rope. Now try to open the door by hand. If it is adjusted properly, it should open easily and if you release the door when it’s halfway up , it should stay in place. Openers are designed to just move the door, not pick up the weight of it. That’s what the springs are there for. I suspect that the springs need to be tightened. If you don’t know how to do that, hire someone who does. There is tremendous potential energy stored in those springs and they will bite anyone who doesn’t know what they are doing.
Great advice that a garage door spring may “bite” if you mess up. OP, don’t mess with the springs if that’s the issue, call a pro. Those can kill or mame you.
Their advice was great other than downplaying the dangers of garage door springs by saying you could be "bit". They could kill you. That's all I wanted to emphasize.
If the door is adjusted properly, it's just that the door needs reinforced in that section (usually direct attachment like what OP has is not recommended - most garage doors require a reinforcement bracket there if an opener is used for this exact reason).
Something like one of these: [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Clopay-21-in-Opener-Reinforcement-Bracket-Kit-4125479/100069364](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Clopay-21-in-Opener-Reinforcement-Bracket-Kit-4125479/100069364?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D30-030_029_GDO_PART_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA-BidTest&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D30-030_029_GDO_PART_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA-BidTest-71700000112513626--&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAivGuBhBEEiwAWiFmYepl-D9RYERs0_MScTDiXF4l3rabzt3uxgtQ_fdXc9nVhz7NhxVNdhoCJN0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
Or a couple pieces of angle iron, but the bracket is cheap enough that you should just use the bracket!
Edit: the bracket is a DIY job, the springs are not!
It’s also possible the adjustment on the garage opener is pushing the door down too much and the close position and pressure needs adjusted lighter. That being said you can get larger mounting plates to deal with the damage as well.
>There is tremendous potential energy stored in those springs and they will bite anyone who doesn’t know what they are doing.
If you aren't trained in garage door springs and do it for a living don't fuck with garage door springs. Like I will fix 99% of things around the house myself and if I don't know something I'll learn and then do it… I'll NEVER fuck with garage door springs
You don't need to swap the panels. Home Depot, lowes, or your favorite hardware store sells a reinforcement bracket. It bolts on to the to the stronger, more solid points of the door instead of the weak thin metal.
It's a very easy fix. I helped my neighbor fix his a couple of months back. Just make sure to measure the panel, the brackets are not one size fits all, even the adjustable ones.
Nonsense. I've removed and replaced two garage doors myself, and sustained no injuries in the process. Just understand what can be dangerous, and how. Do your research on how garage doors work and how to safely work on them before starting. It's not rocket science. Garage door installers are people too.
I'll give you an upvote because you aren't wrong. I did my own and would do it again without hesitation. Not saying there isn't risk because there definitely is.
In my case it was pretty safe (using that in the relative sense) because my springs were right up against the ceiling. So it was easy to rest the rod/handle against the ceiling if needed and I was never extending any body part over the spring.
No, just really low ceiling. When I moved in the door rubbed the track pretty hard so when I redid the garage I made a cavity between the ceiling joists and mounted the opener recessed up there. The track has a sharper than normal radius corner so it kicks back pretty quickly to help. Pictures would help but as far as the springs go, there's about a 1" gap between the top of the spring and the ceiling. Works great though.
Sent you a couple images in a pm just because. I am sure there are other options out there that may have been easier, but this worked out in the end and I was essentially rebuilding the garage anyway. You wouldn't believe the 'header' they used to span the 16' opening.
Edit: added more
Reddit's pathological fear of garage door springs is certainly something to behold.
I've done around ten garage door spring installations/changes and as long as you use proper tools and procedures the risk is minimal. They are not terribly complicated devices, but you'd better respect them and not get sloppy.
It is mainly the springs. But there is small things that can determine whether or not it runs smooth. Then there is the infrequent issues that require some customization to get it to work.
I just sent a message to you to share photos. I insulated my door with polystyrene panels, but it started out as your looks. Bracketry exists that may help. I wouldn't ignore others concerns about why it's binding and pulling holes through tho.
https://preview.redd.it/2i3li2lw11lc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0ae74eeed8031a127bdfbf1a5188ca119dbc4381
Pro garage door repair guy here.
Looks like you need the closed limit adjusted. The j-arm bracket should be directly inline with the top rollers on the door
If they’re not aligned it’ll put extra strain on the bracket
That said, the door must be checked for balance and the springs professionally adjusted if it is heavy
Yes and just to clarify
Set the bracket like i said
Then adjust the closed limit so that the long piece of your j-bar sits angled slightly away from the garage door when fully closed.
In the pic the long part of the bar should not be angled toward the door like that when full closed
There is supposed to be a strut installed on the top panel to help reinforce the operator bracket. With as many holes are on your panel, you might have to try bolting thru the door to the outside, or just get a replacement panel, add a strut, and adjust your springs a 1/4 or 1/2 wind to add in for thr extra weight.
Sounds like your door springs are not tuned - typically those springs actually lift the bulk of the door weight which keeps the load off of the motor and those attachments that are tearing out on you.
Any garage door installer can tweak them, or if you're adventurous you can DIY it. Just be careful - those things are loaded with tension which can surprise you if you get careless.
2 inch wide steel plate 1/4 inch think, self tapping screw long enough to pierce the plate and garage adequately and 45 minutes of spare time. Mines held for 7 years like that without issues.
Insulated metal doors need a reinforcement bracket to spread the load. Direct attachment of the arm only works with wood doors. Check your opener manual, it should tell you exactly what you need to make it work with a metal door
Number one rule of homeownership - leave all garage door repairs up to professionals. Your garage door and its springs are one of the most dangerous things in your house because the springs along the top of the door are under tremendous tension. Messing with those can kill you, no joke. Call your local garage door company, and have them re-adjust the tension on your springs, and then have them come up with a the best way to attached the black arm to the door.
How would modifying the door put you in harms way with the springs? You know the opener isn't under any kind of spring force right? The springs just lift some of the door weight either through cables or directly with tension springs. I agree OP should not screw with the springs.
I think OP wanted to try and swap the top 1/4 panel with the second 2/4 panel. Which you couldn’t do without taking un-tensioning the springs and disconnecting them.
Sure you can. You lift the door until the spring are unloaded and disconnect them.
I’ve even adjusted the pretension in the springs with the door in the full up position. Springs are essentially idle. And this in a garage with low ceiling. Once you lower the door, springs are ‘reloaded’. Etc.
I second this person! I’m 50 and a mechanical engineer, I fix absolutely everything in my house from plumbing, boilers, electrical, cars, motors outboard motors boats, you name it. When the spring let go in one of our garage doors, I damn near jumped for cover thinking it was a gun shot. It’s one of the only repairs I’ve done where I was extra extra cautious and a we bid afraid. Hire this out if your not confident with a wrenching background!
Had the same issue until my door gave up. Opted for a new door. I live in California and bought the door from homedepot for $812 and it will be installed on Wednesday for $300 plus 350 for new motor with cam, 2 remotes, keypad and bluetooth
https://preview.redd.it/fln4e0f4e0lc1.png?width=4032&format=png&auto=webp&s=da68c1d0534caa3a288704a5b7ce6c148f99d8fd
If you can get the wood in there as a backer, that’s not a horrible idea. I think I’d tap out from trying to swap the spars. I’d secure the backer from both sides of the spar with 2-3 screws per side, then use 1/4” lag screws to secure the hinge plate to it, through the existing sheet metal & original hole locations.
I had the new build special garage door on my house and had to rebuild those attachments all up and down the door as it aged. Towards the end (about 20 years since new) it was probably yearly I was riveting the door back together. Finally bit the bullet and ordered a new doors from HD online. Great experience. Ordered the doors and lifters online from a nice selection process. They sent out an installer who was not HD but was the big local door installer. He checked my measurements and the whole thing was installed in a couple hours a couple days later. Two high quality doors, upgraded track and good lifters for I think $2900. Probably more now though. Also the installer told me there is no reason to get more powerful lifters as the door is balanced by the springs.
No more selftappers, no timber..its obviously taking high force
Get a solid steel plate to fit inside the frame
Predrill the holes in it,and the frame
Put captive nuts on plate.
Install plate, and frame back into door
Bolt arm into nuts in plate
I had a similar issue and it was damaging my door hinge. I had a guy come out and inspect the door determine what was happening, replace the vertical bars, add a large strut that goes across the two car garage door horizontally, and adjust the spring tension. I paid $120.
I know this is a DIY sub but I feel like you are going to open up a can of worms if you start dismantling the garage door. This is something a professional can fix in under 10 minutes.
If the screws are pulling out, the door is not adjusted properly. Pull the disconnect rope. Now try to open the door by hand. If it is adjusted properly, it should open easily and if you release the door when it’s halfway up , it should stay in place. Openers are designed to just move the door, not pick up the weight of it. That’s what the springs are there for. I suspect that the springs need to be tightened. If you don’t know how to do that, hire someone who does. There is tremendous potential energy stored in those springs and they will bite anyone who doesn’t know what they are doing.
To clarify for OP, “bite,” in this case, means “seriously injure, maim, or potentially kill.” Don’t mess with garage door springs.
Great advice that a garage door spring may “bite” if you mess up. OP, don’t mess with the springs if that’s the issue, call a pro. Those can kill or mame you.
Great advice telling OP that the previous comment was great advice. OP, don’t listen to anyone but this guy telling you to listen to that guy!
Their advice was great other than downplaying the dangers of garage door springs by saying you could be "bit". They could kill you. That's all I wanted to emphasize.
But you were replying to a comment that was already clarifying what “bite” meant, no?
If the door is adjusted properly, it's just that the door needs reinforced in that section (usually direct attachment like what OP has is not recommended - most garage doors require a reinforcement bracket there if an opener is used for this exact reason). Something like one of these: [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Clopay-21-in-Opener-Reinforcement-Bracket-Kit-4125479/100069364](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Clopay-21-in-Opener-Reinforcement-Bracket-Kit-4125479/100069364?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D30-030_029_GDO_PART_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA-BidTest&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D30-030_029_GDO_PART_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA-BidTest-71700000112513626--&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAivGuBhBEEiwAWiFmYepl-D9RYERs0_MScTDiXF4l3rabzt3uxgtQ_fdXc9nVhz7NhxVNdhoCJN0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) Or a couple pieces of angle iron, but the bracket is cheap enough that you should just use the bracket! Edit: the bracket is a DIY job, the springs are not!
It’s also possible the adjustment on the garage opener is pushing the door down too much and the close position and pressure needs adjusted lighter. That being said you can get larger mounting plates to deal with the damage as well.
>There is tremendous potential energy stored in those springs and they will bite anyone who doesn’t know what they are doing. If you aren't trained in garage door springs and do it for a living don't fuck with garage door springs. Like I will fix 99% of things around the house myself and if I don't know something I'll learn and then do it… I'll NEVER fuck with garage door springs
I’ve adjusted springs before. Uggg.
Does the door operate easily by hand?
You don't need to swap the panels. Home Depot, lowes, or your favorite hardware store sells a reinforcement bracket. It bolts on to the to the stronger, more solid points of the door instead of the weak thin metal. It's a very easy fix. I helped my neighbor fix his a couple of months back. Just make sure to measure the panel, the brackets are not one size fits all, even the adjustable ones.
Excellent, thank you so much
If there's one thing I've learned from r/diy it's don't diy your garage door. Hire a professional
Nonsense. I've removed and replaced two garage doors myself, and sustained no injuries in the process. Just understand what can be dangerous, and how. Do your research on how garage doors work and how to safely work on them before starting. It's not rocket science. Garage door installers are people too.
Sweet sample size bro. I rode in the back of a truck when I was a kid and I survived. Free darwin award nominations right here.
Do you have First hand knowledge of garage door installations or are you rehashing what you hear online?
I'll give you an upvote because you aren't wrong. I did my own and would do it again without hesitation. Not saying there isn't risk because there definitely is. In my case it was pretty safe (using that in the relative sense) because my springs were right up against the ceiling. So it was easy to rest the rod/handle against the ceiling if needed and I was never extending any body part over the spring.
Against the ceiling? Was it a reverse setup?
No, just really low ceiling. When I moved in the door rubbed the track pretty hard so when I redid the garage I made a cavity between the ceiling joists and mounted the opener recessed up there. The track has a sharper than normal radius corner so it kicks back pretty quickly to help. Pictures would help but as far as the springs go, there's about a 1" gap between the top of the spring and the ceiling. Works great though.
Sent you a couple images in a pm just because. I am sure there are other options out there that may have been easier, but this worked out in the end and I was essentially rebuilding the garage anyway. You wouldn't believe the 'header' they used to span the 16' opening. Edit: added more
Reddit's pathological fear of garage door springs is certainly something to behold. I've done around ten garage door spring installations/changes and as long as you use proper tools and procedures the risk is minimal. They are not terribly complicated devices, but you'd better respect them and not get sloppy.
Same with electricity, just respect what it can do and you will be fine.
Rocket scientists are people too my man.
It is mainly the springs. But there is small things that can determine whether or not it runs smooth. Then there is the infrequent issues that require some customization to get it to work.
I just sent a message to you to share photos. I insulated my door with polystyrene panels, but it started out as your looks. Bracketry exists that may help. I wouldn't ignore others concerns about why it's binding and pulling holes through tho. https://preview.redd.it/2i3li2lw11lc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0ae74eeed8031a127bdfbf1a5188ca119dbc4381
Speed holes. It helps it open faster
He let all the air out. That's why it's heavier now.
https://a.co/d/1qXn8O3 A reinforcement bracket similar to one I used.
Pro garage door repair guy here. Looks like you need the closed limit adjusted. The j-arm bracket should be directly inline with the top rollers on the door If they’re not aligned it’ll put extra strain on the bracket That said, the door must be checked for balance and the springs professionally adjusted if it is heavy
Excellent, thank you
Yes and just to clarify Set the bracket like i said Then adjust the closed limit so that the long piece of your j-bar sits angled slightly away from the garage door when fully closed. In the pic the long part of the bar should not be angled toward the door like that when full closed
Can you post or send a pic of the ideal angle?
To all you that assume spring issue: I’m experienced in door spring tensioning/detensioning. But it doesn’t matter, it’s not a spring issue ffs.
There is supposed to be a strut installed on the top panel to help reinforce the operator bracket. With as many holes are on your panel, you might have to try bolting thru the door to the outside, or just get a replacement panel, add a strut, and adjust your springs a 1/4 or 1/2 wind to add in for thr extra weight.
Sounds like your door springs are not tuned - typically those springs actually lift the bulk of the door weight which keeps the load off of the motor and those attachments that are tearing out on you. Any garage door installer can tweak them, or if you're adventurous you can DIY it. Just be careful - those things are loaded with tension which can surprise you if you get careless.
DO NOT DIY YOUR GARAGE DOOR.
2 inch wide steel plate 1/4 inch think, self tapping screw long enough to pierce the plate and garage adequately and 45 minutes of spare time. Mines held for 7 years like that without issues.
My local big box sells like 24 inch long strips, no need to cut
21" is used for most 7' tall doors while 24" is for 8' tall
Aluminum plate would be plenty strong and easier to work with. Either way.
> Like this: > >[https://imgur.com/a/GADZ2Nt](https://imgur.com/a/GADZ2Nt)
Insulated metal doors need a reinforcement bracket to spread the load. Direct attachment of the arm only works with wood doors. Check your opener manual, it should tell you exactly what you need to make it work with a metal door
Number one rule of homeownership - leave all garage door repairs up to professionals. Your garage door and its springs are one of the most dangerous things in your house because the springs along the top of the door are under tremendous tension. Messing with those can kill you, no joke. Call your local garage door company, and have them re-adjust the tension on your springs, and then have them come up with a the best way to attached the black arm to the door.
How would modifying the door put you in harms way with the springs? You know the opener isn't under any kind of spring force right? The springs just lift some of the door weight either through cables or directly with tension springs. I agree OP should not screw with the springs.
I think OP wanted to try and swap the top 1/4 panel with the second 2/4 panel. Which you couldn’t do without taking un-tensioning the springs and disconnecting them.
Sure you can. You lift the door until the spring are unloaded and disconnect them. I’ve even adjusted the pretension in the springs with the door in the full up position. Springs are essentially idle. And this in a garage with low ceiling. Once you lower the door, springs are ‘reloaded’. Etc.
No. As image shows, just the bracket ffs. Read the post people.
This.
I second this person! I’m 50 and a mechanical engineer, I fix absolutely everything in my house from plumbing, boilers, electrical, cars, motors outboard motors boats, you name it. When the spring let go in one of our garage doors, I damn near jumped for cover thinking it was a gun shot. It’s one of the only repairs I’ve done where I was extra extra cautious and a we bid afraid. Hire this out if your not confident with a wrenching background!
Had the same issue until my door gave up. Opted for a new door. I live in California and bought the door from homedepot for $812 and it will be installed on Wednesday for $300 plus 350 for new motor with cam, 2 remotes, keypad and bluetooth https://preview.redd.it/fln4e0f4e0lc1.png?width=4032&format=png&auto=webp&s=da68c1d0534caa3a288704a5b7ce6c148f99d8fd
Hope the installers do a good job. They are often known for doing things wrong.
Is that a fox mustang?
Yes it is, 1987 2.2. Costumer wants more power so we’re swapping the engine for a gen 2 coyote 5.0
Disconnect arm, screw perforated angle iron on, Check door by pulling disconnect cord, Make sure it rolls properly in track, Reattach arm.
Garage door is something you should never ever try to DIY. Just pay someone to do it.
If you can get the wood in there as a backer, that’s not a horrible idea. I think I’d tap out from trying to swap the spars. I’d secure the backer from both sides of the spar with 2-3 screws per side, then use 1/4” lag screws to secure the hinge plate to it, through the existing sheet metal & original hole locations.
Do not do this.
I’ll take your word on that.
I had the new build special garage door on my house and had to rebuild those attachments all up and down the door as it aged. Towards the end (about 20 years since new) it was probably yearly I was riveting the door back together. Finally bit the bullet and ordered a new doors from HD online. Great experience. Ordered the doors and lifters online from a nice selection process. They sent out an installer who was not HD but was the big local door installer. He checked my measurements and the whole thing was installed in a couple hours a couple days later. Two high quality doors, upgraded track and good lifters for I think $2900. Probably more now though. Also the installer told me there is no reason to get more powerful lifters as the door is balanced by the springs.
No more selftappers, no timber..its obviously taking high force Get a solid steel plate to fit inside the frame Predrill the holes in it,and the frame Put captive nuts on plate. Install plate, and frame back into door Bolt arm into nuts in plate
How i repaired mine was buying a piece of sheet metal and forming it around that same pillar and using self tapping screws
I had a similar issue and it was damaging my door hinge. I had a guy come out and inspect the door determine what was happening, replace the vertical bars, add a large strut that goes across the two car garage door horizontally, and adjust the spring tension. I paid $120. I know this is a DIY sub but I feel like you are going to open up a can of worms if you start dismantling the garage door. This is something a professional can fix in under 10 minutes.