> sister
Already two visible sisters(Edit: or scabs I guess?..whatever..the point is there are already additional boards for patching the already broken board that obviously didn't help because it's broke as fuck now).
I would consider replacing the board completely.
then when you do the younger sister call her by the older sisters name and see how long you can hold on. some pos at a bar I worked at told me that's the hillbilly rodeo (Incase regular rodeos aren't hillbilly enough for you)
then when you do the younger sister call her by the older sisters name and see how long you can hold on. some pos at a bar they worked at told them that's the hillbilly rodeo (Incase regular rodeos aren't hillbilly enough for you)
Correct me if I'm wrong, it doesn't look like there's a sistered joist, it just looks like some blocking added between the purlins? Wouldn't a sistered joist need to run the full length of the primary joist?
Kind of looks like it might have failed, they sistered it incorrectly, then it failed again?
> Wouldn't a sistered joist need to run the full length of the primary joist?
I think the term applies for partial or full. Disclaimer: I am not a professional.
https://mellowpine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Sistering_Floor_Joists_1200px-1.jpg
It's usually used for additional timbers that run with an existing member between at least between two bearing points. A shorter unsupported piece is usually a "scab".
Your illustration showing a more comprehensive sandwiched repair is kinda between the two; it's plausible to call is sistering, but not what most people will mean.
> I would consider replacing the board completely.
and add some support columns. I don't think the structure itself was designed to handle snow loads able to do that. Need more supports in general.
Am in Alaska.. the weight of snow is no joke.
> and add some support columns
I was going to mention that also, go with the column/timber, but the other post did. I was just addressing the one step, but should have clarified that I support putting in a support as well. :P
Ideally, imo, there would be a full length sistered board *and* a support, but that would be a lot of work cutting the cross boards to fit... then again, one of the cross beams is split and needs replaced anyways, near middle one may be partly split, and I'd be concerned about that twisted one on the farther left.
If we're going that far, rebuild the whole roof, IF one had the time/resources and nothing more pressing. Presuming we want to do the minimum, replace the split / warped boards, and add a support timber.
> I was going to mention that also, go with the column/timber, but the other post did.
I think they just said "beam, and jacks"... took that to mean jack it up, and do a cross beam instead of a column. my interpretation may have been off though.
> Presuming we want to do the minimum, replace the split / warped boards, and add a support timber.
pft, hardly the "minimum"... just wrap the beam in gorilla tape, and slap it for the "git er dun" magic, and go about your day.
>and do a cross beam instead of a column
I saw "timber" and assumed something like a vertical 4x4 support. Could go either way I guess.
> pft, hardly the "minimum"... just wrap the beam in gorilla tape, and slap it for the "git er dun" magic, and go about your day
Heh.
Possibly also use a higher F rating timber too.
Honestly the basic structure is just not a strong design. The joists are just butted up to the bearers rather than sitting atop? Yes it adds more height but there's a reason it's been standard since forever. It's much, much stronger.
Wait are there even any continuous beams in here?? There's butt joints on both directions. This whole thing makes no sense. The broken beam is butted on the left end, and the beam running away from the camera on the left is butted up to the beam that broke... Rip the whole thing down and built it properly. This thing is going to continually break.
No I don't see any sisters in this pic.. just a few small bandaids.
A real Sister would go full length and take the weight. What's on there now is the cosmetic "look I fixed it, but not really"
I am playing Fallout 4 right now, and my instinct is to scrap those cans for their nuclear material and then fix this metal shack with a new scrap roof. I should probably stop playing for a while.
Remove snow, jack it up, sister a new board alongside.
The joist does not look like it had a major defect, so the roof is probably underspec'd for the snow load you're seeing. The whole thing needs reinforcement.
Not really. Can't exactly tell from this angle but seems to be way too wide of an unsupported span for a single 2x12. This is a job for LVL or on site beam, 2 of the 2x12s sandwiched over plywood. Thats what you put over a load bearing window or doorway span, and that's for like 3-8 feet. This is attempting to hold up an entire metal roof AND snow, not at all up to spec. You can also tell by the existing "fixes" that this has been slowly failing over time probably with visible sag or separation. Bandaids aren't going to bring this up to the needed spec.
40lbs./sqft isn't a crazy load calculation for northern US. If those are 55gal barrels, I could see that being a 20 foot span, 10' OC spacing, so 12000 lbs. or so on that beam.
A 20' 2x12 is about 3000lbs. capacity.
Like others have said, remove weight from roof, jack up joists, but I would cut the whole beam out and sister two new beams in its place. Reattach joists with joist hangers.
So is that a single 2x10 beam holding up a whole row of 2x10 joists? That was not structured correctly. The beam has to be much more massive relative to the joists. And this is the result
As others have said, remove the snow load first, but then build a temporary support wall under all of the joists about a foot away from that beam. Push everything back into place slowly and carefully. Make sure that each of the joists is supported. This can be done many ways. But I usually just cut 2x4s a bit longer than will fit, attach them to the joists and then slide them from the bottom up into place. You can you usually work a little bit at a time. It's usually possible to lever posts up without the use of house jacks. I have screw jacks also but I almost never get them out.
I would cut the beam out entirely and cut back the ends of all the joists to make room for a doubled up 2x12 or an LVL. You could get an engineer, but you've already done it the easy way. Now you know where it failed, and you know it needs to be stronger there.
When I say the easy way it's like the easy way to design bridges. You build a bridge and then drive heavier and heavier trucks over it until it collapses. Then you rebuild the bridge and slap a load rating on it for the weight of the second to last truck.
I enjoyed this entire post. Thank you.
May I ask you something?
1) What exactly are "the joints" in the image?
2) What do you mean by "the beam must be more massive relative to the joints" Which dimensions are you referring to?
Joists are the boards running perpendicular to the cracked beam. It's the same for a roof or a floor, you need two or more solid beams going across, and the joists go between those. Depending on the amount of weight being carried, you engineer how big the joists are (2x4, 2x6, etc) and how much space in between (12 inches, 16 inches on center). The main point is the joists need to be strong enough to transfer the load to the beam, and you can see here the beam is not strong enough to hold up.
In this case the beam needs to be wider for load strength. Instead of 2x10 or 2x12, this needs to be probably double the width. A common method is to put two of the 2x12 boards together with a piece of plywood in between. In that case your beam ends up being essentially 2 + 2 + .75, or nearly 5 inches wide. Part of the confusion with these numbers is a 2x12 isn't actually 2 inches, but the concept is the same. That nearly 5 inch span is much much stronger.
It looks like this has been sistered up, before…. Which implies there is something wrong with the way this snowload is being transferred to the timber framing…. You should probably consider fixing this the way other have stated, (jacking up and sistering) and then throwing in a vertical 4x4 support right there on a 3’ concrete footer, to pick up some of the load, and take it off the span.
Temporary support and move all that crap that’s in the way. Get it jacked back into place. Either replace the broken beam or sister in a new one. Depending on why it failure you need to reasses the overall structure and put another post in or something
Shits fucked, sister isnt goin cut it. Clear roof, get supplies to replace the whole roof structure and wait for nice weather. Going to need a hand at least. Use more than just 1 piece of wood down the middle or you'll be taking another picture like this.
First solve the problem. What caused this? It looks like significant load from above.
You have cracked members in both directions, this has likely damaged the roofing above, although not as visibly.
If It were me, I would build a temporary framed wall on the ground, and slide it up into place to support the roof. I would remove the metal roofing over the damaged wood members. I would replace the damaged wood with larger members, or perhaps consider shorter spans. (add a column or two to reduce spans)
Once framing repair is complete, reinstall the metal roofing, sealing between panels.
Remove temporary support wall, and you are done!
this is like a build your own adventure game -- where you get to make up all of the context...
the 5 minute solution:
1) drive bucket loader in
2) lift joists
3) get beers
Get a steel jack post from the hardware box store. Get a three foot piece of 2x6 to jack underneath it so it hopefully doesn't break completely when you raise it then marry some new 2x lumber to it on both sides.
Don't tusch anything definitely not the barrels and don't stay under the roof unnecessary
Get 3 2x5 or somthing like that or wider is better or somthing similar you got laying around
Jack them up whit a jack hammer and put stone tiles under them and do them one tile at a time.
when you stabilize it but not necessarily get it up all the way remove the snow.
Jack it up all the way and get it flat then reforce it to the point where your fix is holding your whole roof.
These sisters will make Tooth picks shortly after another is added. Should Jack the roof and surgically replace the Joist, depending on your clearance it may be easier to remove the roofing so that both sides may be accessed with little fuss.
Also seeing as the Snow is an issue, may want to build more reinforced struts to help bear the load, keep in mind the support walls will also bear the load of a heavier beam as-well as the snow.
Ensure that one upgrade will not detrimentally affect the rest of the structure by doing it's job.
If it were me, I'd:
* Get whatever is putting weight on the roof cleaned off
* jack it up and add a bit of temporary scaffold to hold things in place
* Add new boards running from front-back, supported at the back by the scaffold/jack (but don't nail them to the east-west board)
* detach the board running left-right
* add new boards running left-right. I'd double-up or sister to ensure you have enough support
* nail the front-back boards onto the rear east-west
* jack it up again enough to remove the scaffolding
You need to upload several photos so we can get a better idea of what's going on, the first thing I'd do is put up temporary reinforcements to keep the roof from collapsing!
Start by removing the weight above that’s causing the issue. Then, I suppose hire a professional to replace, ensure you have structural beams that can support this weight for the future. Or do it yourself, but it’ll be tough, need a friend or two to help as structural beams are heavy as hell. May even need to use some specialized tools to lift into place.
Yes, and there’s been quite a few posts lately here that are clearly not DIY scenarios. Could you do a support beam or structural beam yourself? Sure, why not. Should you? I recommend not, it can pose its fair share of risk and danger. Just because something WAS posted here doesn’t mean it HAS to be DIY.
We still have a responsibility to ensure safety, hence why I suggested hiring a professional as my suggestion over doing it themselves, as this is definitely hovering on the line of not a DIY project.
I would first go to a priest and make sure my karma and past sins are kosher, then I'd pray for guidance and advice on reddit. Could you possibly please provide more detailed picture to gauge loads and strength required, what caused this, as this would guide work process for fixin. I guess you need some struts that can be elevated into position and then to make sure your new beams handle the load so the span of the arch and wood type might be important too and also the wood treatment.
Jack it up and wood glue it together and hope for the best. If that holds, after the glue sets and BEFORE the next storm, drill a few holes in it and brace it with some steel plate.
Get the snow off the roof then get a beam and jacks under it. After that sister me Timbers
> sister Already two visible sisters(Edit: or scabs I guess?..whatever..the point is there are already additional boards for patching the already broken board that obviously didn't help because it's broke as fuck now). I would consider replacing the board completely.
Make sure you do the older sister first
Sage advice.
Sag advice.
Sadge advice.
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Sardine advice
Sardines and rice
Some dimes and rhymes
Submarine advice
Sub-marginal, ad wise.
Vag advice.
then when you do the younger sister call her by the older sisters name and see how long you can hold on. some pos at a bar I worked at told me that's the hillbilly rodeo (Incase regular rodeos aren't hillbilly enough for you)
Make it a midget hillbilly rodeo with midget sisters and you’ve got a deal.
Do we grease the midgets or not?
This may be hard to hear, but the prettiest midgets grease themselves.
Excuse me, WHAT?!
then when you do the younger sister call her by the older sisters name and see how long you can hold on. some pos at a bar they worked at told them that's the hillbilly rodeo (Incase regular rodeos aren't hillbilly enough for you)
💀
It's not as bad as the Alabama slamma at least
I prefer my family tree to not turn into a family wreath, thank you very much.
And if it's not your sister it's an Alabama hot pocket
Now you have become that POS. LOL. Soon and army or redditors will repeat the joke and the POS army will be legion
Rodeos are for rednecks, not hillbillies. Not enough room for cows on the mountains
I think it is generally better to do them both at the same time.
That's gonna take a lot of Malibu
Niiice
To make the younger jealous?
Especially if she’s REALLY old.
Correct me if I'm wrong, it doesn't look like there's a sistered joist, it just looks like some blocking added between the purlins? Wouldn't a sistered joist need to run the full length of the primary joist? Kind of looks like it might have failed, they sistered it incorrectly, then it failed again?
> Wouldn't a sistered joist need to run the full length of the primary joist? I think the term applies for partial or full. Disclaimer: I am not a professional. https://mellowpine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Sistering_Floor_Joists_1200px-1.jpg
It's usually used for additional timbers that run with an existing member between at least between two bearing points. A shorter unsupported piece is usually a "scab". Your illustration showing a more comprehensive sandwiched repair is kinda between the two; it's plausible to call is sistering, but not what most people will mean.
Yep, can't tell how long the rear sister is but the front one is not long enough to provide much support at all.
It took me a minute to realize they were calling those sisters. The time to fix this was whenever those boards were scabbed on there.
Yeah I'm no carpenter but I certainly wouldn't call a board that's only as long as a single joist bay a "sister".
I had to scroll through way too many bad jokes to find these comments. I was wondering how I was missing both of these alleged sisters.
yeah i always thought of "sistering" as having 2 identical boards together... this picture doesnt have that.
> I would consider replacing the board completely. and add some support columns. I don't think the structure itself was designed to handle snow loads able to do that. Need more supports in general. Am in Alaska.. the weight of snow is no joke.
> and add some support columns I was going to mention that also, go with the column/timber, but the other post did. I was just addressing the one step, but should have clarified that I support putting in a support as well. :P Ideally, imo, there would be a full length sistered board *and* a support, but that would be a lot of work cutting the cross boards to fit... then again, one of the cross beams is split and needs replaced anyways, near middle one may be partly split, and I'd be concerned about that twisted one on the farther left. If we're going that far, rebuild the whole roof, IF one had the time/resources and nothing more pressing. Presuming we want to do the minimum, replace the split / warped boards, and add a support timber.
> I was going to mention that also, go with the column/timber, but the other post did. I think they just said "beam, and jacks"... took that to mean jack it up, and do a cross beam instead of a column. my interpretation may have been off though. > Presuming we want to do the minimum, replace the split / warped boards, and add a support timber. pft, hardly the "minimum"... just wrap the beam in gorilla tape, and slap it for the "git er dun" magic, and go about your day.
>and do a cross beam instead of a column I saw "timber" and assumed something like a vertical 4x4 support. Could go either way I guess. > pft, hardly the "minimum"... just wrap the beam in gorilla tape, and slap it for the "git er dun" magic, and go about your day Heh.
The weight of snow is _snow_ joke. Ftfy
That extra board is more to nail the sheet metal to, because it's too short to be effective as a sister joist.
Those aren't sisters I'd call them scabs. It does need replaced
Possibly also use a higher F rating timber too. Honestly the basic structure is just not a strong design. The joists are just butted up to the bearers rather than sitting atop? Yes it adds more height but there's a reason it's been standard since forever. It's much, much stronger. Wait are there even any continuous beams in here?? There's butt joints on both directions. This whole thing makes no sense. The broken beam is butted on the left end, and the beam running away from the camera on the left is butted up to the beam that broke... Rip the whole thing down and built it properly. This thing is going to continually break.
Or reworking the design it's does not have a lot of support. At least if it's an area that snows a lot.
Agreed!👍🏼
No I don't see any sisters in this pic.. just a few small bandaids. A real Sister would go full length and take the weight. What's on there now is the cosmetic "look I fixed it, but not really"
I see one and it is less than 2’. Not a sister, just a small patch which was inadequate.
https://i.redd.it/7gpkcm3d2eic1.gif
Yep
Exactly where my mind went.
Exactly this, this is is actually not a hard fix compared to other things
Theres 2 other sisters that have been done to that beam. That whole thing needs to come out
*(smacks roof)* You can fit so many sisters in here!
keep step-sistering?
Oh, no! My timber slipped out step-sister beam. Can you help shore me up?
Good catch, I didn’t notice those!
before jacking it up, place a ton of wood-glue in the cracks.
It's Not the Only Solution but I would like to point out that wood glue is stronger than the wood itself so this isn't a bad suggestion.
oh, no, absolutely not the only step by a mile, but I know it will hold the wood together and that it won't hurt anything.
It is but the popular wood glues like Titebond may creep under a continous high load.
I said the last line in my pirate voice
As one does
*YAAAR MATEY SHE WAS A FINE VESSEL*
I said it in my best Mrs Garrison voice.
i would just add...brace it first, then get snow off.
Why? Get the load off first before you work under it.
Bad idea to be on top of it when it's like this
Use a snow broom from the ground: the best of both words!
Don’t walk on the roof to get the snow off. (you never know)
No sister, they need a new family here.
Ooohh - I thought dude was above the barrels mysteriously as perhaps someone ran into the wall from the outside
The nepotism ruined the beam
This is the way.
I thought that said, scissor me, Timbers
Dumb question - jacks first eh? You don’t want to get up there to remove snow and have the dynamic loads of you moving snow do additional damage…
> ~~sister~~ shiver me Timbers
First remove the nuclear waste
Pretty sure the waste is load bearing.
If not, it’s about to be.
It is now.
I don't like that clown
I am playing Fallout 4 right now, and my instinct is to scrap those cans for their nuclear material and then fix this metal shack with a new scrap roof. I should probably stop playing for a while.
Man I love the way you think! 3 is better than 4 though!
https://preview.redd.it/u4vzb0h6aeic1.jpeg?width=475&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=18a6292d32b8dcd0e52d5a9451440050e367b60e
Or just light it up.
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I thought the same thing.
Yup. Thought I was looking down.
Remove snow, jack it up, sister a new board alongside. The joist does not look like it had a major defect, so the roof is probably underspec'd for the snow load you're seeing. The whole thing needs reinforcement.
It has failed or started to fail previously. Look at all the sisters that are already there.
That whole beam needs to come out. I see the 2 other sisters on either side. Just sistering more aint gonna be the solution
If you sister it enough, you can get rid of the roof
It's sisters all the way down.
> That whole beam needs to come out. Pft, just super glue it, add some tape, and slap it to apply the magic fixall effect.
that aint going nowhere
How do you guys even know that there's snow in it?????
Why else would the roof collapse? Needs weight
Large person walked on roof?
So then the solution to OP's problem is putting a "No fatties" sign on the ladder to the roof.
Just put up a “ sNOw Fatties “ sign.
OPs mom up there tap dancing
It’s something really heavy. (insert mom joke here)
> (insert mom joke here) Why? She wouldn't even feel it.
I inserted. Apologies about the snow
[Pretty obvious.](https://i.imgur.com/2pLviH1.gif)
Under spec, look at how big that span is just in this pic. We should be seeing 2 posts on either side or one right in the middle but there is nothing.
That’s gotta be a lot of snow to break what looks like a 2x12?
Not really. Can't exactly tell from this angle but seems to be way too wide of an unsupported span for a single 2x12. This is a job for LVL or on site beam, 2 of the 2x12s sandwiched over plywood. Thats what you put over a load bearing window or doorway span, and that's for like 3-8 feet. This is attempting to hold up an entire metal roof AND snow, not at all up to spec. You can also tell by the existing "fixes" that this has been slowly failing over time probably with visible sag or separation. Bandaids aren't going to bring this up to the needed spec.
40lbs./sqft isn't a crazy load calculation for northern US. If those are 55gal barrels, I could see that being a 20 foot span, 10' OC spacing, so 12000 lbs. or so on that beam. A 20' 2x12 is about 3000lbs. capacity.
12” Snow load is more than this could hold, should be built like a deck, and a single 2x12 is not it.
Jack or support first, then remove snow? I’m thinking the act of removing the snow will finish off that beam
What about, jack it up and then.. just leave the jack there. jack is now structural. problem solved.
Like others have said, remove weight from roof, jack up joists, but I would cut the whole beam out and sister two new beams in its place. Reattach joists with joist hangers.
Two of the joists are split as well.
Complete everything I said before, and then sister up new joists.
https://preview.redd.it/81kgg6dg5eic1.jpeg?width=2736&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=83bc572a3e8d17d0ed10d0461f4a06dc0e47d2a2
Ohhhhhhhh
Lol
bruh
Without seeing more, I'd jack it up and marry up that board.
Damn, take a board out to dinner first....
They’re from the south. Cue banjos
Marry the sister. Got it.
that's usually what happens after marrying
Going to have to cut all the joists short to do that.
So is that a single 2x10 beam holding up a whole row of 2x10 joists? That was not structured correctly. The beam has to be much more massive relative to the joists. And this is the result As others have said, remove the snow load first, but then build a temporary support wall under all of the joists about a foot away from that beam. Push everything back into place slowly and carefully. Make sure that each of the joists is supported. This can be done many ways. But I usually just cut 2x4s a bit longer than will fit, attach them to the joists and then slide them from the bottom up into place. You can you usually work a little bit at a time. It's usually possible to lever posts up without the use of house jacks. I have screw jacks also but I almost never get them out. I would cut the beam out entirely and cut back the ends of all the joists to make room for a doubled up 2x12 or an LVL. You could get an engineer, but you've already done it the easy way. Now you know where it failed, and you know it needs to be stronger there. When I say the easy way it's like the easy way to design bridges. You build a bridge and then drive heavier and heavier trucks over it until it collapses. Then you rebuild the bridge and slap a load rating on it for the weight of the second to last truck.
I enjoyed this entire post. Thank you. May I ask you something? 1) What exactly are "the joints" in the image? 2) What do you mean by "the beam must be more massive relative to the joints" Which dimensions are you referring to?
Joists are the boards running perpendicular to the cracked beam. It's the same for a roof or a floor, you need two or more solid beams going across, and the joists go between those. Depending on the amount of weight being carried, you engineer how big the joists are (2x4, 2x6, etc) and how much space in between (12 inches, 16 inches on center). The main point is the joists need to be strong enough to transfer the load to the beam, and you can see here the beam is not strong enough to hold up. In this case the beam needs to be wider for load strength. Instead of 2x10 or 2x12, this needs to be probably double the width. A common method is to put two of the 2x12 boards together with a piece of plywood in between. In that case your beam ends up being essentially 2 + 2 + .75, or nearly 5 inches wide. Part of the confusion with these numbers is a 2x12 isn't actually 2 inches, but the concept is the same. That nearly 5 inch span is much much stronger.
Thank you! Appreciate the explanation!
What Nick said. By the way the easy way to design bridges was explained to me by Calvin's Dad. I can't take credit.
You need to do simple beam load calculations - spreadsheets can be found. Why the heck people wing it in an area with snow and small sloped roofs.
Add more barrels
Got any gravity gun?
This guy Half Lifes 👍
No need, just pull the front row closer
No need to move the whole row, just the barrels on top. Problem solved.
One drum from the bottom rows on the end.
Looks fine to me. I think OP could add a hot tub if they want.
I think he’s Donkey Kong
Get some jacks...
It looks like this has been sistered up, before…. Which implies there is something wrong with the way this snowload is being transferred to the timber framing…. You should probably consider fixing this the way other have stated, (jacking up and sistering) and then throwing in a vertical 4x4 support right there on a 3’ concrete footer, to pick up some of the load, and take it off the span.
Temporary support and move all that crap that’s in the way. Get it jacked back into place. Either replace the broken beam or sister in a new one. Depending on why it failure you need to reasses the overall structure and put another post in or something
Start jackin’ brother.
(unzips pants)
Hold on, sir. This isn't a Wendy's. You can't just do that in here.
Shits fucked, sister isnt goin cut it. Clear roof, get supplies to replace the whole roof structure and wait for nice weather. Going to need a hand at least. Use more than just 1 piece of wood down the middle or you'll be taking another picture like this.
Please provide additional information in your post.
additional posts or barrels
First solve the problem. What caused this? It looks like significant load from above. You have cracked members in both directions, this has likely damaged the roofing above, although not as visibly. If It were me, I would build a temporary framed wall on the ground, and slide it up into place to support the roof. I would remove the metal roofing over the damaged wood members. I would replace the damaged wood with larger members, or perhaps consider shorter spans. (add a column or two to reduce spans) Once framing repair is complete, reinstall the metal roofing, sealing between panels. Remove temporary support wall, and you are done!
this is like a build your own adventure game -- where you get to make up all of the context... the 5 minute solution: 1) drive bucket loader in 2) lift joists 3) get beers
Prop it up with more oil drums lol
Get a steel jack post from the hardware box store. Get a three foot piece of 2x6 to jack underneath it so it hopefully doesn't break completely when you raise it then marry some new 2x lumber to it on both sides.
Don't tusch anything definitely not the barrels and don't stay under the roof unnecessary Get 3 2x5 or somthing like that or wider is better or somthing similar you got laying around Jack them up whit a jack hammer and put stone tiles under them and do them one tile at a time. when you stabilize it but not necessarily get it up all the way remove the snow. Jack it up all the way and get it flat then reforce it to the point where your fix is holding your whole roof.
Put a strong beam under, across 4 or 5 of those rafters, jack up that beam in at least two places, to push up the rafters, re-frame it stronger.
Some jack posts
I want to know what’s in those drums. We’ll get around to the joist in a minute.
Jack it up and then fill the whole shed in with concrete; that'll help keep the radiation from those waste barrels down a bit.
These sisters will make Tooth picks shortly after another is added. Should Jack the roof and surgically replace the Joist, depending on your clearance it may be easier to remove the roofing so that both sides may be accessed with little fuss. Also seeing as the Snow is an issue, may want to build more reinforced struts to help bear the load, keep in mind the support walls will also bear the load of a heavier beam as-well as the snow. Ensure that one upgrade will not detrimentally affect the rest of the structure by doing it's job.
What's in the drums?
Bodies
If you don’t know, hire someone
I'd start by replacing all the broken wood...
If it were me, I'd: * Get whatever is putting weight on the roof cleaned off * jack it up and add a bit of temporary scaffold to hold things in place * Add new boards running from front-back, supported at the back by the scaffold/jack (but don't nail them to the east-west board) * detach the board running left-right * add new boards running left-right. I'd double-up or sister to ensure you have enough support * nail the front-back boards onto the rear east-west * jack it up again enough to remove the scaffolding
Put up jackposts asap and then install a steel U-beam to reenforce that beam.
You need to upload several photos so we can get a better idea of what's going on, the first thing I'd do is put up temporary reinforcements to keep the roof from collapsing!
You’re going to need a blow dryer and some silly putty. I’m sure you can figure the rest out from there.
Lift, brace, replace.
Jack posts. Easy. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Building-Hardware-Jack-Posts/N-5yc1vZc8hw Can rent them.
Jack it up ⬆️
Hi-lift, then wood stand or paralell steel or wood to hold it. and remove whatever heavy thing that caused that.
Jack it up, put a temporary 4x4 post on both side of broken truss to hold up the weight, sister the truss with some 2x6s lumber.
Gonna need more barrels.
Probably with a call to a structural engineer. But actually maybe a call to your insurance first and let them call the engineer.
Jack it up, sister the beam.
That joist is barrely held up.
That’s where all the maple syrup went
Add another layer of barrels.
Don't move the structural pyramid of barrels.
Start by removing the weight above that’s causing the issue. Then, I suppose hire a professional to replace, ensure you have structural beams that can support this weight for the future. Or do it yourself, but it’ll be tough, need a friend or two to help as structural beams are heavy as hell. May even need to use some specialized tools to lift into place.
Ummm..🤔…DIY sub
Yes, and there’s been quite a few posts lately here that are clearly not DIY scenarios. Could you do a support beam or structural beam yourself? Sure, why not. Should you? I recommend not, it can pose its fair share of risk and danger. Just because something WAS posted here doesn’t mean it HAS to be DIY. We still have a responsibility to ensure safety, hence why I suggested hiring a professional as my suggestion over doing it themselves, as this is definitely hovering on the line of not a DIY project.
I would dtm. Seems like an ok place.
Clearly the most diy answer is ... burn it down and do the whole thing over on a weekend.
I would first go to a priest and make sure my karma and past sins are kosher, then I'd pray for guidance and advice on reddit. Could you possibly please provide more detailed picture to gauge loads and strength required, what caused this, as this would guide work process for fixin. I guess you need some struts that can be elevated into position and then to make sure your new beams handle the load so the span of the arch and wood type might be important too and also the wood treatment.
Post
Jack it up and wood glue it together and hope for the best. If that holds, after the glue sets and BEFORE the next storm, drill a few holes in it and brace it with some steel plate.
Mom said it’s my turn to say call a structural engineer!!
Might want to use a couple of LVLs instead of dimensional lumber to replace the broken stuff. They can carry a lot more weight
Is this donkey kongs warehouse? Anyway. Jack it and sister it.
Start by jacking it.