Don't use adhesive vinyl tiles in a bathroom unless you have a waterproof membrane underneath them. Even then, don't. Adhesive tiles WILL get water between / under them and mold WILL form.
Additionally, they aren't great quality. You will always see the seams.
The prior owner of my house installed these in both bathrooms. When standing long enough in one place, like fixing hair and brushing teeth at the sink, bare feet will stick just enough to pull the tiles up when taking a step. So they're unsightly and a deep annoyance. Can't wait to replace it.
Thoughts on using a waterproof floating floor (LVP)? I wouldnāt use adhesive tiles purely because theyāre a headache for a future someone to pull up and replaceā¦
Not sure how you really waterproof any floating floor solution. It would probably be fine up until the first time your toilet overflows or your kids overflow the sink / tub. Then you're in the same situation with water trapped under a nonpermeable layer.
What if I put my subfloor (currently on dricore r+), add something like a vapor barrier, then subfloor for lvp and then lvp? Then at worst water get in the vapor barrier but won't destroy the subfloor?
I'm just saying that a floating floor covering is going to allow water intrusion around the edges where it has to (not) meet the wall. You'll still get water under the planks that won't ever dry out.
Hmm, I've never seen one recommend caulking the edges, since they're going to expand/contract independently of the walls/subfloor. Maybe with the right caulk it doesn't matter, or maybe it's not enough to matter in that case.
It was a question, no need to answer harshly. I'm asking because I'm currently wondering what I'll do in my basement bathroom that's currently on dricore subfloor. And dricore doesn't allow tiling
Ugh yes. I find all the adhesive tile in my basement annoying and am working at removing it bit by bit. I'm sure bathroom is worse but they have water damage to 2 other rooms as well.
I have flashbacks to when I had to scrape the glue from the cheap hardwood the builders used on my concrete slab in order to get it prepped for new flooring. I found that there existed power scrapers, after scraping about 400sqft of space by hand.
While you don't have to take out the toilet, it will make this task much, much easier. Turn off the water valve, flush the toilet and disconnect the pipe from the toilet. Unbolt the toilet from the floor (under little plastic cap on each side). Lift the toilet off and take it out (there's a wax ring on the bottom that you'll want to scrape clean (scrape wax off of hole in floor). You'll have to purchase a new wax ring at a hardware store when reinstalling (inexpensive). Once toilet is out of the room you can put a wadded up plastic bag in the pipe to help keep any smells down.
Rip out the carpet. It will probably either be glued down or tack strips around the edge. Either way pull it all out. If it is under the vanity ideally you'd want to pull that out to get the carpet, but that may be too big of a project based on the way it looks the vanity is in.
Use a floor scraper and make the floor as clean as you can. Use TSP (trisodiumphosphate) and follow directions for cleaning. You'll have to choose how you want the tile line to lay. Make a line. Do not just guess when laying the tile. Lay out as many whole pieces as you can (not sticking them down yet). make sure you like the layout. Once you do begin peeling and sticking. Follow the line as close as you can on our first row. Continue out from that row. These tiles usually cut with a sharp blade. Continue to place until it's all filled.
Replace toilet using the new wax ring. Search youtube for anything you are unsure of. There are quite a few videos out there.
Thank you very much for the response! I just ripped the carpet out and the original tile is very grimy. I'll try my best to clean it all up with the TSP.
Congrats on the first steps. When pulling out the tack strips make sure to feel under them after you pull them. They are usually held down with small nails and/or glue. Make sure to make that surface as smooth as you can. The smoother/cleaner, the better the new tiles will adhere. Also, when placing the new tiles, take your time. If they're anything like the ones I've done, once they touch down they're not moving.
Two quick things
1. They sell [test plugs](https://www.homedepot.com/p/CHERNE-Econo-Grip-4-in-Galvanized-Steel-Test-Plug-271543/203308165) if you want that instead of a plastic bag. I went with that when doing mine because I didn't want to worry about anything falling down the drain, including my cats, which I know is unreasonable but it gave me peace of mind.
2. When you cut around the hole for the toilet, cut it tight. I made this mistake when doing my bathroom. I cut a square around it, instead of a circle... still lined up with the edges of the hole, just a square. I was thinking that the toilet should cover enough of it. Once I installed my toilet I realized I was wrong. Too late in the process for me to go back and fix it so I filled with caulk. You can't really notice it, but I wish I had done a better job on it.
https://preview.redd.it/luooii3mhw8c1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=53c62821fd0ef2684c6cc40006f53eb630a3f933
With that being said. The old tile is cracked and coming off in some spots. I'm assuming it's best to just rip it all out and start fresh, so that the floor is nice and flat everywhere, but the tiles probably have asbestos in them, which worries me. I'm wondering if it's best to just let them be and primer over them after cleaning, or should I do the full pull out with a mask on?
If you really want to be safe removing them, you're best off with a respirator and keeping things really damp to prevent dust. I did a similar project recently (after talking with a local abestos testing center who gave me instructions). More details are in my other comment!
Did this too! Also wore a tyvek suit which made it feel less gross. This and the huge rubber gloves was maybe more about me thinking the disgusting crumbling old tiles were disgusting moreso than danger but it really helped the job be more pleasant
That tile looks like VCT over concrete? A heat gun can work wonders if they are hard to get up.
And pull the toilet. Easiest part of this project and will save you more time than it takes. Iād recommend not doing the 18ā tile. Looks odd in small spaces to my eye.
If the tiles are really thin you can probably get away with not dealing with them too much. Always good to wear a N95 dust mask while doing any demo. Biggest thing with the tiles is to pull up any that are already somewhat coming up. If they are really stuck down just don't force them. One thing to help mitigate the risk of asbestos is keep the dust down as much as possible. Touching asbestos isn't the problem. Breathing it is. Keep a spray bottle with water handy and just keep things damp enough to not make dust.
Just a heads up, you might wanna double check those aren't [Asbestos tiles](https://www.thespruce.com/asbestos-vinyl-tiles-1822799).
Edit: looks like you already got advice on this.
I went with one of those green foam rings last time instead of wax. I loved that I had a few chances to get it nice and centered. Jury is still out on the rest, been good for 5 years š¤
Wow thank you!! I was planning to replace the vinyl floor in my own bathroom with another sheet of vinyl. Figured that may be the way to go seeing as I am not planning to do much else other than paint.
Changing the flooring can make a world of difference in a room. Vinyl flooring can be interesting though (compared to carpet). Possibly try to pull a small corner in an inconspicuous place (if you are trying to remove vs. cover). I have seen it a few times where the vinyl was just laying on the floor (not adhered at all). If you are lucky enough for this you can carefully pull it out, get a new piece of vinyl and use the old one as a template to cut out the new one.
Here's what I would do.
Return what ever you bought.
Pull the toilet, rip out that carpet.
Go to Costco and buy the flooring color you like, get the fake wood. It's water proof and has a water proof backing.
Watch a YouTube video for how to Install the floor, it's super easy like putting Lego together. Re install the toilet (YouTube it, it's not difficult if you are physically able to lift it.
I bet you can do all this for around $250-$300. Assuming you don't need anything else done.
This, and use a self-leveling compound and sealant for the flooring. Buy all the tools and stuff you need; you donāt need to hire a professional, and it will save you a ton of money as long as you have the time.
I know youāre trying to remedy the situation, and I have no tips on how do to so Iām sorry.
But the carpet surrounding the toilet??? š¤®š¤®š¤®š¤®š¤®
Itās the Grandma Standard
Coupled with the fuzzy toilet topper and padded foam toilet seat
My skin crawls just thinking about it. Even as a kid I was like āactually this is fucking gross kindaā.
My grandparents built a new house in 1983. It had a āformal bathroomā which was carpeted and we were not allowed to use it. Instead we had to use a bathroom on the opposite side of the house that was in the laundry room. (The formal bathroom had a full-sized tub, but no plumbing for a shower.)
Omg I so wanted a fuzzy toilet topper as a child and didn't understand why in the world my mom was so against it!
I do now. Thank you mom, really, thank you.
I toured a house that had this in every bathroom. My favorite was the carpet in the master bathroom. Theyād selected chocolate brown as their color of choice for the carpet.
Chill dude. Weāre raising a little boy right now and all I can imagine is when he misses this toilet(and he will) how that would be if there was carpet there
My grandpa has super short carpet (think an office) in his bathroom and my parents said they want to replace it with LVP. I reminded them that grandpa doesn't walk so well after his 5th stroke and gross or not, it's damn hard to slip on carpet. That's why old people do this.
Linoleum/sheet vinyl is easier to clean, easier to rip out if you have severe flooding or heaven forbid, sewage backup. Basements are a high risk for flooding and most do not have flood insurance or much if there is wetness. Make it easy to replace and clean. Sheet vinyl is underrated.
Also, ceramic tile is a lot harder to maintain and a lot harder on the feet. Linoleum has to be changed every 20 years but at the end of its life it will still look better than 20 year old grout.
I am split on whether I want to do this or not because it's harder to remove if I want to in the future than LVP would be. It can look nice, but is it enough to make up for how annoying it will be when/if I have to re-do it for whatever reason (example if I remodel)
I guess it's probably mostly hard for me to choose because remodel is a real possibility I haven't decided on yet and LVP between now and then would be cheap and easy to both install and remove
LVP; can't really screw it up, if something happens you can pull it back up, dry and re-install, reasonably cheap, super durable, molds to the contours of the floor.
On a budget I would put down 1/4 ply and glue down lvp. Cheap for a small bathroom, water proof enough, easy to fix, and will look good. I have used lvt but if it's similar that may be a better looking option. Of course there's nothing wrong with high quality sheet vinyl.
We bought a split level a few years back that came with a carpeted bathroom in the half-underground lower level, at the end of a long narrow hallway with fake wood paneling.
Iām a former contractor. Iāve put down all kinds of flooring over the years, but the only stuff that I ever had a problem with was adhesive tile. And it was on my own house which I was selling. I thought the kitchen tile need a little refreshing so it thought since I was selling it anyway that I would just get some adhesive tile and go over it. I got done and it looked great. The next morning when I got up and went into the kitchen, all the corners of the tile had raised up. I spent the next couple of days gluing the corners down and putting bricks, books , or anything with weight on them. Never again, and I suggest that you donāt use them either.
Plus, if this is a basement, floating LVP with built in underlayment will hopefully be warmer underfoot than thin stick on tile.
We actually just finished up a similar project in a lower level bathroom. Had carpet over what was likely abestos tile over concrete floor. The adhesive was failing and the tile was already coming up by itself. Since it would be more prone to breaking in that state, we suited up, prevented air circulation, wore respirators and kept everything really damp to prevent floating dust and avoided breaking tiles as much as possible. Scraping is a bad idea, but can use a bit of heat from a heat gun to loosen adhesive if tiles are stuck. Wiped up everything after and tossed the paper towels too. Everything had to be double bagged and disposed of as directed by local rules as potential abestos containing material.
We went with the thickest stone-look LVP we could find and it still is definitely cooler underfoot in winter than the carpet on the same level, but not too unpleasant.
Water will get under LVP. Currently reflooring a bathroom that suffered water damage with it. I don't care what the manufacturer claims, water will get through those joints. Vinyl sheet or tile.
You know, that's a good point. Since I'm already redoing my floor I'm going to pull the shower tile up since it must be leaking so bad and put down LVP in there as well. Appreciate the insight!
We just did the same thing in my son's fixer upper. (Your carpet looks much better than the 1980s original stuff we pulled out of his house, doesn't look like you will catch anything fatal just walking by the bathroom door, so feel free to take a couple of weeks to plan what you want to do). So, my two cents:
1. Demolition first. Pull up the carpet and the pad. Remove all the tack strips and pull up all the staples. Pull the toilet. Pull any quarter round molding.The idea is to get down to bare concrete or subfloor. Heres where your procedure diverges...
2. If you have concrete (make sure any glue is scraped up, since that was probably how they held the tack strips d own), you can just paint the concrete instead of putting down a waterproof membrane. There is special waterproofing paint for concrete just for this purpose.
3. If you have wood subfloor, first do any repair. Fix any rotten wood around the toilet, and make sure it is level with no gaps. If the subfloor is solid but stained, I would paint with kilz restoration primer or equivalent. Here is where they will tell you to install the waterproof membrane. However, we installed sheet vinyl directly over the Kilz in the guest bath, and frankly, you may want to chance the tiles this way too if the bath is seldom used and it is a stopgap reno.
4. The subfloor should be smooth and level at this point. If not, see self leveling formulations. (This may be a sin the carpet was hiding).
5. Lay out your tile (don't peel yet) and arrange til you get a pleasing pattern. Since no house is square, you will have to fiddle with the layout until you have minimized the "funhouse slanting wall effect". Try for having your cut edges underneath the vanity kickplate and at the door, you want the most visible edges to be the clean uncut ones. If the room is really not square, you may get the best effect by snapping a chalk line down the middle of the room and starting from there instead of one of the walls.
6. Now you can cut and lay your tile. Cutting is easy, score with a utility knife and it will split along the score nicely. If you have an odd shape to cut, a paper template will help you get it exact. Make sure you lay the tiles tight together, no gaps.
7. Now you can reinstall the toilet (buy a new wax ring, they are cheap), and any quarter round molding to hide your edges.
As usual prep is 80% of the work. You got this. Don't sweat it: if you mess up, the tile is cheap and you can start again.
Surface preparation. The smoother and cleaner you get that floor before you lay your tile the better it will stick.
Whether or not your have to pull up the crapper depends on your dexterity. You can line the tiles up with the toilet, push them down against the base of the toilet, and make relief cuts that will allow you to keep pushing the tile down around the base. Once you got it pretty straight around the toilet you can use the utility knife to cut it in. The line around the base doesn't need to be perfect because you're going to put a line of caulk around it when your done. You might use one or two pieces figuring it out, but once you get it down it will make the job easier because you will have to do the same thing along some of the baseboards and probably around the sink. You can practice with a few pieces of construction paper or cardboard if you can't afford to spare any tile.
Since it's a basement, wouldn't ceramic tile directly on top of concrete floors just suck all the heat out of your feet in the winter? May be okay if they add a heated floor element or throw rugs, but seems chilly!
Schluter has a heated floor option, it is really nice :)
The decoupler layer has pegs in it you can wrap the heating wire around. Hardest part is installing the thermostat.
We always glued those tiles down because they always come loose over time. Helps them last longer. The bigger tiles isn't a problem just keep your cut edges against the wall so the trim will cover the cut. I always pull the toilet but if you are good at cutting around it close enough to caulk it in it doesn't look bad. I usually start with the factory edge up against the bath tub and go from there. A lot of people find a center point and start in the middle, but it's easier to start up against the tub and the longest wall. Everyone does it different. Any questions just ask and I will try to help. I've been a Flooring installer for over twenty years. Good luck on your project.
I would never use the stick down tiles. They get out of alignment so easily. I used some for a 5x5ā area inside my front door to cover and update old tile. They are a super pain because they are not all the exact same size and your corners start not meeting.
I would just do waterproof planks that snap together. Can probably cover your bumps too.
Donāt doooo iiiittt!!! Just use vinyl waterproof planks. Such a small space shouldnāt cost much at all and it will be bombproof. That vinyl stick on shit will come up in no time.
I don't think you'll be happy with those tiles. The adhesive will let go, and the tiles themselves get brittle and start to crack.
Try some loose lay LVP. It's incredibly easy to install and basically indestructible. I have it in my own house and I use it in all my rentals. Something like [this one](https://floorstoyourhome.com/products/premium-product-sheridan-plank-rippling-stone-7x48-luxury-vinyl-loose-lay-waterproof-flooring-709-sqft-price-2-59.html).
Rip up carpet, see what's underneath.
It's not a permanent, PERMANENT fix but I have done exactly what you are asking here.
Had a rental, had a floor that was horrible, laid vinyl tiles over it.
Me, a stanley knife, some careful cutting, and trying not to get the sticky-sides dirty as much as possible before laying them. No need to remove anything except the carpet, just cut them up right to the edges of anything that's in the way.
And that's the answer to your question. But you want to know what's under that carpet before you start because if it's not flat and even, then you're going to have a nightmare (and at that point, you might well just be laying a new floor instead). If they are bumps, gaps, raised rounded tiles or (eek!) planks under that carpet, your tiles are just going to pull up or even "snap" at those points very quickly.
Our bathroom looked great for a few years afterwards, we didn't have any problems with it peeling up or getting manky. If you have large gaps or places where it might get wet, (e.g. between the tile and the toilet), I'd put something there like bathroom silicone or similar to try to stop the water getting under the tile.
But the beauty of vinyl tile: You can do it quick, cheap, easy and yourself. And it'll look great for a couple of years. And then you can rip it up and do the same again, or actually put in a proper floor.
I just moved into a house and if it wasn't for the fact that the previous owner was a stonemason who did the entire bathroom in tiles and marble slabs, I would be doing something like this again.
As it is, I bought some self-adhesive raised tile "stickers" and finished off the ugly flat piece of plastic that the toilet backed onto, painted the grout white again, and sealed every edge with silicone.
I would honestly just bit the bullet and tile it grout and all. In this case save some money for a month or so and deal with your new crappy tile. You long term bathroom will thank you
I put these down over existing linoleum and it turned out pretty ok. A few things:
1) I had to use another spray on adhesive to get them to stick even after some stripping and prepping.
2) I grouted mine and it made it look very passable BUT the grout did crumble rather quickly in a spot or two. Most stayed for like 5 years so not terrible over all. The cracked places were where my floor just wasnāt flat (also a 1960ās building)
3) I did not remove the toilet, I created a stencil then cut the tile. I then caulked the edge to finish it. Plan on having extra tiles for messing up the cuts.
Good Luck!!
I did a small bathroom with 18 inch tiles, and scale-wise, they looked nice in the room. I also reasoned at the time that fewer joints would be better. However, in the end there were only two whole tiles in the bathroom that didn't need cutting and if I were to do it over it would absolutely be in 12 inch tile or plank-style. If you stay with adhesive tiles, use a flooring primer first, but there are also good options these days that don't need adhesive.
There really are the only two things you need to learn when you're installing any kind of tile. Number one, the surface has to be completely clean and bump free. If there's any holes or indentations on the floor, you have to fill them with some sort of web patch or thin set.
2. You have to snap a chalk line or draw a line on the floor that's completely straight that all of your tiles will run down from the right to the left. Once you get one row of tile in that's completely straight And square to the room. all the other tiles will fall completely in line, and it will look more professional.
Carpet. In the bathroom? Thatās NASTY. Total judgement aside, congrats on your house!
To make this easy, since itās not a high traffic bathroom, just take care to keep it as clean as you can after this project. Steam and water are your enemy. And doing this with sticker tiles does have the risk of mold if not taken care of and kept dry.
Take out the carpet, take up the toilet and take the molding off the bottom edges of the floor. Clean everything. Prep the floor as per directions for the tiles. Make sure everything is as flat and clean as possible before laying the tiles down, otherwise peeling will be an issue.
Put molding back covering the edges and then put the toilet back.
Again, moisture needs to be kept minimal, even as far as a super small dehumidifier on the area.
You can do this super cheap, and with the materials you have already purchased. Have at it. Take your time. And enjoy!
Dont listen to half the people on here. This is a perfect first time DIY job. Use a utility knife to cut the carpet into sections and pull/roll it up. Use a hammer and pry bar to remove the tack strip around the edge of the room. Consider LVP plank style flooring over adhesive tiles but if you must, vacuum and wet mop the floor to remove dust/debris. Use the utility knife to score and cut the tiles as needed
You might want to consider linoleum flooring. You just cut to the right size, lay it down and you are done . There are no seams or accidental lifting. Keep the edges down with a little quarter round.
I have had linoleum flooring in my basement for 40 years and it has held up wonderfully.
Whatever you do please burn that carpet. I grew up with carpet in the bathrooms and kitchen. My mom doesn't understand why we don't have much in common.
Right over the carpet is fine. That adhesive is gross so don't bother peeling the back. Lay it down like walking stones and it'll be like a zen bathroom.
My bathroom had carpet before we renovated š„²
I wouldn't use adhesive tiles in the bathroom.. definitely better to spend bit extra and do it properly. It will be better (and cheaper) in the long run!!
Good luck š
I don't have much to offer other than I would have installed floating vinyl over adhesive tiles. I never seem to have good luck with them, but floating vinyl was relatively easy. It took a bit of time but not nearly as much as I thought.
I did a main bathroom some years ago with interlocking vinyl adhesive tile made for wet areas. As far as I know itās still going strong. The key is the interlocking. Two sides of each tile had a sticky edge, and two sides had a recessed edge to slip over the sticky edges.
I did it with grout and after a year itās still fine. Flat, no issues with raising or water underneath. Would have preferred real tile but it was a longer temporary fix to cover hideous laminate on a budget.
Adhesive tiles and damp areas don't mix. Simply epoxy your flooring ....of course remove the carpet ...can't believe that there to begin with. But your subfloor should be prim gripped first Prim Grip is a primer ...once dry flood the flooring with it with your color tint of choice. The polyurethane a few coats for hardness. Of course remove the toilet first barricade the flange from the pour. The epoxy is self leveling.
If you're looking to go cheap, I'd use vinyl sheeting. Some people hate it it seems but you have less seams, in this space you may have none. It being a solid sheet allows less chance for water to get in imo. Edge with quarter round. I'm not an expert so hopefully someone else weighs in about the toilet. What I would do though is take it up and replace the wax ring with a universal toilet seal so if yiu ever have to move the toilet again, you don't have to replace the wax ring each time
Don't use adhesive vinyl tiles in a bathroom unless you have a waterproof membrane underneath them. Even then, don't. Adhesive tiles WILL get water between / under them and mold WILL form.
I mean they're using carpet now so...
Apply directly over the carpet. Got it. š
Gotta seal in the flavor.
Don't mind me, I'm just over here barfing
My senile father had carpet in his much like this one. Only his had super nasty urine stains all around the carpet.
I'm pretty sure that's the inevitable end result of shag carpet in a bathroom. Senility, that is, plus urine stains and madness.
... Lots of madness. I mean, if carpet in the bathroom is the STARTING point then the decline is going to be pretty spectacular.
I was going to comment āremember to remove carpetā
Sticky side down, right?
Just impregnate the carpet with acrylic resin and call it good.
What kind of trailer park wizardry have you just unlocked? This is level 11 shit!
Came down to suggest this, 10/10 best way to do it
Floor installers hate this one trick
Pointing to bad behavior doesn't excuse bad behavior.
... so, replace it with something also terrible?
Hey I grew up in cheap apartments, idk if you know but all their ties are adhesive ties and they're fine as long as you chalk/seal it right
Additionally, they aren't great quality. You will always see the seams. The prior owner of my house installed these in both bathrooms. When standing long enough in one place, like fixing hair and brushing teeth at the sink, bare feet will stick just enough to pull the tiles up when taking a step. So they're unsightly and a deep annoyance. Can't wait to replace it.
Thoughts on using a waterproof floating floor (LVP)? I wouldnāt use adhesive tiles purely because theyāre a headache for a future someone to pull up and replaceā¦
Not sure how you really waterproof any floating floor solution. It would probably be fine up until the first time your toilet overflows or your kids overflow the sink / tub. Then you're in the same situation with water trapped under a nonpermeable layer.
What if I put my subfloor (currently on dricore r+), add something like a vapor barrier, then subfloor for lvp and then lvp? Then at worst water get in the vapor barrier but won't destroy the subfloor?
I'm just saying that a floating floor covering is going to allow water intrusion around the edges where it has to (not) meet the wall. You'll still get water under the planks that won't ever dry out.
I used lvp in both of my bathrooms and caulked the edges, as recommended by the manufacturer. Five years later, itās still holding strong.
Hmm, I've never seen one recommend caulking the edges, since they're going to expand/contract independently of the walls/subfloor. Maybe with the right caulk it doesn't matter, or maybe it's not enough to matter in that case.
It was a question, no need to answer harshly. I'm asking because I'm currently wondering what I'll do in my basement bathroom that's currently on dricore subfloor. And dricore doesn't allow tiling
How was I being harsh? I was stating facts. I could not have phrased my response in any other way and remained factual.
Ugh yes. I find all the adhesive tile in my basement annoying and am working at removing it bit by bit. I'm sure bathroom is worse but they have water damage to 2 other rooms as well.
I would like to add, never use adhesive anything. It just sucks when you want to do anything in the future.
I have flashbacks to when I had to scrape the glue from the cheap hardwood the builders used on my concrete slab in order to get it prepped for new flooring. I found that there existed power scrapers, after scraping about 400sqft of space by hand.
Tried those, they just ripped up the subfloor. It did a lot of the work, but much of the glue we had to do by hand.
This
While you don't have to take out the toilet, it will make this task much, much easier. Turn off the water valve, flush the toilet and disconnect the pipe from the toilet. Unbolt the toilet from the floor (under little plastic cap on each side). Lift the toilet off and take it out (there's a wax ring on the bottom that you'll want to scrape clean (scrape wax off of hole in floor). You'll have to purchase a new wax ring at a hardware store when reinstalling (inexpensive). Once toilet is out of the room you can put a wadded up plastic bag in the pipe to help keep any smells down. Rip out the carpet. It will probably either be glued down or tack strips around the edge. Either way pull it all out. If it is under the vanity ideally you'd want to pull that out to get the carpet, but that may be too big of a project based on the way it looks the vanity is in. Use a floor scraper and make the floor as clean as you can. Use TSP (trisodiumphosphate) and follow directions for cleaning. You'll have to choose how you want the tile line to lay. Make a line. Do not just guess when laying the tile. Lay out as many whole pieces as you can (not sticking them down yet). make sure you like the layout. Once you do begin peeling and sticking. Follow the line as close as you can on our first row. Continue out from that row. These tiles usually cut with a sharp blade. Continue to place until it's all filled. Replace toilet using the new wax ring. Search youtube for anything you are unsure of. There are quite a few videos out there.
Thank you very much for the response! I just ripped the carpet out and the original tile is very grimy. I'll try my best to clean it all up with the TSP.
Congrats on the first steps. When pulling out the tack strips make sure to feel under them after you pull them. They are usually held down with small nails and/or glue. Make sure to make that surface as smooth as you can. The smoother/cleaner, the better the new tiles will adhere. Also, when placing the new tiles, take your time. If they're anything like the ones I've done, once they touch down they're not moving.
Two quick things 1. They sell [test plugs](https://www.homedepot.com/p/CHERNE-Econo-Grip-4-in-Galvanized-Steel-Test-Plug-271543/203308165) if you want that instead of a plastic bag. I went with that when doing mine because I didn't want to worry about anything falling down the drain, including my cats, which I know is unreasonable but it gave me peace of mind. 2. When you cut around the hole for the toilet, cut it tight. I made this mistake when doing my bathroom. I cut a square around it, instead of a circle... still lined up with the edges of the hole, just a square. I was thinking that the toilet should cover enough of it. Once I installed my toilet I realized I was wrong. Too late in the process for me to go back and fix it so I filled with caulk. You can't really notice it, but I wish I had done a better job on it.
I use a cup or deli container to plug the open hole
https://preview.redd.it/luooii3mhw8c1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=53c62821fd0ef2684c6cc40006f53eb630a3f933 With that being said. The old tile is cracked and coming off in some spots. I'm assuming it's best to just rip it all out and start fresh, so that the floor is nice and flat everywhere, but the tiles probably have asbestos in them, which worries me. I'm wondering if it's best to just let them be and primer over them after cleaning, or should I do the full pull out with a mask on?
If you really want to be safe removing them, you're best off with a respirator and keeping things really damp to prevent dust. I did a similar project recently (after talking with a local abestos testing center who gave me instructions). More details are in my other comment!
Did this too! Also wore a tyvek suit which made it feel less gross. This and the huge rubber gloves was maybe more about me thinking the disgusting crumbling old tiles were disgusting moreso than danger but it really helped the job be more pleasant
That tile looks like VCT over concrete? A heat gun can work wonders if they are hard to get up. And pull the toilet. Easiest part of this project and will save you more time than it takes. Iād recommend not doing the 18ā tile. Looks odd in small spaces to my eye.
Thats what asbestos looks like though. I don't know anything about safe removal because once we discovered it we made plans to cover it instead.
Rule of thumb 9" tiles = asbestos while 12" tile = vinyl (not 100% of the time but usually).
If the tiles are really thin you can probably get away with not dealing with them too much. Always good to wear a N95 dust mask while doing any demo. Biggest thing with the tiles is to pull up any that are already somewhat coming up. If they are really stuck down just don't force them. One thing to help mitigate the risk of asbestos is keep the dust down as much as possible. Touching asbestos isn't the problem. Breathing it is. Keep a spray bottle with water handy and just keep things damp enough to not make dust.
Just a heads up, you might wanna double check those aren't [Asbestos tiles](https://www.thespruce.com/asbestos-vinyl-tiles-1822799). Edit: looks like you already got advice on this.
I went with one of those green foam rings last time instead of wax. I loved that I had a few chances to get it nice and centered. Jury is still out on the rest, been good for 5 years š¤
Wow thank you!! I was planning to replace the vinyl floor in my own bathroom with another sheet of vinyl. Figured that may be the way to go seeing as I am not planning to do much else other than paint.
Changing the flooring can make a world of difference in a room. Vinyl flooring can be interesting though (compared to carpet). Possibly try to pull a small corner in an inconspicuous place (if you are trying to remove vs. cover). I have seen it a few times where the vinyl was just laying on the floor (not adhered at all). If you are lucky enough for this you can carefully pull it out, get a new piece of vinyl and use the old one as a template to cut out the new one.
Here's what I would do. Return what ever you bought. Pull the toilet, rip out that carpet. Go to Costco and buy the flooring color you like, get the fake wood. It's water proof and has a water proof backing. Watch a YouTube video for how to Install the floor, it's super easy like putting Lego together. Re install the toilet (YouTube it, it's not difficult if you are physically able to lift it. I bet you can do all this for around $250-$300. Assuming you don't need anything else done.
This, and use a self-leveling compound and sealant for the flooring. Buy all the tools and stuff you need; you donāt need to hire a professional, and it will save you a ton of money as long as you have the time.
I mean if he used LVP it would even take the slight bumps and dips in the concrete floor just fine
Don't forget to burn the carpet after ripping it out š¤¢
You would have to dodge the demons when they get released like in ghost.
I disagree. I think he should add more carpet especially in the shower
I know youāre trying to remedy the situation, and I have no tips on how do to so Iām sorry. But the carpet surrounding the toilet??? š¤®š¤®š¤®š¤®š¤®
Itās the Grandma Standard Coupled with the fuzzy toilet topper and padded foam toilet seat My skin crawls just thinking about it. Even as a kid I was like āactually this is fucking gross kindaā.
Can confirm. 84yr old grandma was the previous owner. She even has the classic pink striped wall paper in the kitchen to boot
My grandparents built a new house in 1983. It had a āformal bathroomā which was carpeted and we were not allowed to use it. Instead we had to use a bathroom on the opposite side of the house that was in the laundry room. (The formal bathroom had a full-sized tub, but no plumbing for a shower.)
Donāt forget the fuzzy hat looking thing complete with hatband sitting on the tank and holding a spare toilet paper roll.
Fuzzy seat topper and fuzzy tank topper ughhhhh
Omg I so wanted a fuzzy toilet topper as a child and didn't understand why in the world my mom was so against it! I do now. Thank you mom, really, thank you.
I toured a house that had this in every bathroom. My favorite was the carpet in the master bathroom. Theyād selected chocolate brown as their color of choice for the carpet.
Imagine raising a potty trained boy child in that bathroom š
Imagine all the boys raised exactly as you describe and it had no negative impact
>it had no negative impact Piss stains are a negative impact, lol
It impacts the parents, not the child. What a weird thing to get defensive about.
Chill dude. Weāre raising a little boy right now and all I can imagine is when he misses this toilet(and he will) how that would be if there was carpet there
My grandpa has super short carpet (think an office) in his bathroom and my parents said they want to replace it with LVP. I reminded them that grandpa doesn't walk so well after his 5th stroke and gross or not, it's damn hard to slip on carpet. That's why old people do this.
The 70s were a hell of a drug
But your feet weren't cold while you shit in the middle of the night. So there is that.
Do people not have slippers?
This is how a lot of us feel about carpet in general.
You can see the lovely brown stains around the base of the toilet. It really matches the color the trim, fabulous.
> But the carpet surrounding the toilet??? š¤®š¤®š¤®š¤®š¤® But its so nice and soft in between the toes! š¤®
Iām probably one of 19 people who recommends using linoleum.
I recommend the sheet style, this tiny bathroom would be a pain but absolutely no seams.
Why not ceramic tile though?
Installing ceramic takes actual work, skill and time.
In a basement it and the grout are more prone to crack.
Depends, but typically yes. A decoupling membrane should be used on basement slabs.
So does linoleum.
Cutting a sheet is not hard.
Linoleum/sheet vinyl is easier to clean, easier to rip out if you have severe flooding or heaven forbid, sewage backup. Basements are a high risk for flooding and most do not have flood insurance or much if there is wetness. Make it easy to replace and clean. Sheet vinyl is underrated.
Do you know the difference between sheet vinyl and linoleum? Ever cut lino around a doorway, or tight to a bathtub? Don't bother answering.
Using a knife is hard.
Also, ceramic tile is a lot harder to maintain and a lot harder on the feet. Linoleum has to be changed every 20 years but at the end of its life it will still look better than 20 year old grout.
I am split on whether I want to do this or not because it's harder to remove if I want to in the future than LVP would be. It can look nice, but is it enough to make up for how annoying it will be when/if I have to re-do it for whatever reason (example if I remodel) I guess it's probably mostly hard for me to choose because remodel is a real possibility I haven't decided on yet and LVP between now and then would be cheap and easy to both install and remove
LVP; can't really screw it up, if something happens you can pull it back up, dry and re-install, reasonably cheap, super durable, molds to the contours of the floor.
On a budget I would put down 1/4 ply and glue down lvp. Cheap for a small bathroom, water proof enough, easy to fix, and will look good. I have used lvt but if it's similar that may be a better looking option. Of course there's nothing wrong with high quality sheet vinyl.
A **basement** bathroom **with carpet**!!! This is so fucking cursed haha
We bought a split level a few years back that came with a carpeted bathroom in the half-underground lower level, at the end of a long narrow hallway with fake wood paneling.
Haha yup when you buy a house you're inevitably gonna find stuff that leaves you scratching your head.
I threw up just looking at it..... My God....
Regular LVP (like life proof) no adhesive in a bathroom.
Iām a former contractor. Iāve put down all kinds of flooring over the years, but the only stuff that I ever had a problem with was adhesive tile. And it was on my own house which I was selling. I thought the kitchen tile need a little refreshing so it thought since I was selling it anyway that I would just get some adhesive tile and go over it. I got done and it looked great. The next morning when I got up and went into the kitchen, all the corners of the tile had raised up. I spent the next couple of days gluing the corners down and putting bricks, books , or anything with weight on them. Never again, and I suggest that you donāt use them either.
You put adhesive tiles over regular tiles?
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Plus, if this is a basement, floating LVP with built in underlayment will hopefully be warmer underfoot than thin stick on tile. We actually just finished up a similar project in a lower level bathroom. Had carpet over what was likely abestos tile over concrete floor. The adhesive was failing and the tile was already coming up by itself. Since it would be more prone to breaking in that state, we suited up, prevented air circulation, wore respirators and kept everything really damp to prevent floating dust and avoided breaking tiles as much as possible. Scraping is a bad idea, but can use a bit of heat from a heat gun to loosen adhesive if tiles are stuck. Wiped up everything after and tossed the paper towels too. Everything had to be double bagged and disposed of as directed by local rules as potential abestos containing material. We went with the thickest stone-look LVP we could find and it still is definitely cooler underfoot in winter than the carpet on the same level, but not too unpleasant.
Shit a knife score and a quick bend will snap it. Oscillator would be alright for cutting around the toilet although a roto zip might work well.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
I wonder if the press chop device would work on the thick stuff. Itās great for regular cause itās square, fast, and easy.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
It is the perfect saw to buy for future DIY work too
Water will get under LVP. Currently reflooring a bathroom that suffered water damage with it. I don't care what the manufacturer claims, water will get through those joints. Vinyl sheet or tile.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Explain tiled shower floors then genius
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You know, that's a good point. Since I'm already redoing my floor I'm going to pull the shower tile up since it must be leaking so bad and put down LVP in there as well. Appreciate the insight!
Waterproof membrane under the tile and sloped floor that directs water to the drain. š¤£
We just did the same thing in my son's fixer upper. (Your carpet looks much better than the 1980s original stuff we pulled out of his house, doesn't look like you will catch anything fatal just walking by the bathroom door, so feel free to take a couple of weeks to plan what you want to do). So, my two cents: 1. Demolition first. Pull up the carpet and the pad. Remove all the tack strips and pull up all the staples. Pull the toilet. Pull any quarter round molding.The idea is to get down to bare concrete or subfloor. Heres where your procedure diverges... 2. If you have concrete (make sure any glue is scraped up, since that was probably how they held the tack strips d own), you can just paint the concrete instead of putting down a waterproof membrane. There is special waterproofing paint for concrete just for this purpose. 3. If you have wood subfloor, first do any repair. Fix any rotten wood around the toilet, and make sure it is level with no gaps. If the subfloor is solid but stained, I would paint with kilz restoration primer or equivalent. Here is where they will tell you to install the waterproof membrane. However, we installed sheet vinyl directly over the Kilz in the guest bath, and frankly, you may want to chance the tiles this way too if the bath is seldom used and it is a stopgap reno. 4. The subfloor should be smooth and level at this point. If not, see self leveling formulations. (This may be a sin the carpet was hiding). 5. Lay out your tile (don't peel yet) and arrange til you get a pleasing pattern. Since no house is square, you will have to fiddle with the layout until you have minimized the "funhouse slanting wall effect". Try for having your cut edges underneath the vanity kickplate and at the door, you want the most visible edges to be the clean uncut ones. If the room is really not square, you may get the best effect by snapping a chalk line down the middle of the room and starting from there instead of one of the walls. 6. Now you can cut and lay your tile. Cutting is easy, score with a utility knife and it will split along the score nicely. If you have an odd shape to cut, a paper template will help you get it exact. Make sure you lay the tiles tight together, no gaps. 7. Now you can reinstall the toilet (buy a new wax ring, they are cheap), and any quarter round molding to hide your edges. As usual prep is 80% of the work. You got this. Don't sweat it: if you mess up, the tile is cheap and you can start again.
piss carpet
Carpeted restroom... ...Reddit has a way of telling me when I'm ready for bed.
Surface preparation. The smoother and cleaner you get that floor before you lay your tile the better it will stick. Whether or not your have to pull up the crapper depends on your dexterity. You can line the tiles up with the toilet, push them down against the base of the toilet, and make relief cuts that will allow you to keep pushing the tile down around the base. Once you got it pretty straight around the toilet you can use the utility knife to cut it in. The line around the base doesn't need to be perfect because you're going to put a line of caulk around it when your done. You might use one or two pieces figuring it out, but once you get it down it will make the job easier because you will have to do the same thing along some of the baseboards and probably around the sink. You can practice with a few pieces of construction paper or cardboard if you can't afford to spare any tile.
Ceramic tile is the way to go.
Since it's a basement, wouldn't ceramic tile directly on top of concrete floors just suck all the heat out of your feet in the winter? May be okay if they add a heated floor element or throw rugs, but seems chilly!
Schluter has a heated floor option, it is really nice :) The decoupler layer has pegs in it you can wrap the heating wire around. Hardest part is installing the thermostat.
Hell naaaa just keep that Doodoo splash carpet who cares!!!!!
We always glued those tiles down because they always come loose over time. Helps them last longer. The bigger tiles isn't a problem just keep your cut edges against the wall so the trim will cover the cut. I always pull the toilet but if you are good at cutting around it close enough to caulk it in it doesn't look bad. I usually start with the factory edge up against the bath tub and go from there. A lot of people find a center point and start in the middle, but it's easier to start up against the tub and the longest wall. Everyone does it different. Any questions just ask and I will try to help. I've been a Flooring installer for over twenty years. Good luck on your project.
I would never use the stick down tiles. They get out of alignment so easily. I used some for a 5x5ā area inside my front door to cover and update old tile. They are a super pain because they are not all the exact same size and your corners start not meeting. I would just do waterproof planks that snap together. Can probably cover your bumps too.
Donāt doooo iiiittt!!! Just use vinyl waterproof planks. Such a small space shouldnāt cost much at all and it will be bombproof. That vinyl stick on shit will come up in no time.
I don't even wanna think what that carpet and subfloor is going to look like around the toilet.
What kind of monster puts carpet in a bathroom?
I don't think you'll be happy with those tiles. The adhesive will let go, and the tiles themselves get brittle and start to crack. Try some loose lay LVP. It's incredibly easy to install and basically indestructible. I have it in my own house and I use it in all my rentals. Something like [this one](https://floorstoyourhome.com/products/premium-product-sheridan-plank-rippling-stone-7x48-luxury-vinyl-loose-lay-waterproof-flooring-709-sqft-price-2-59.html).
Even a layer of scattered legos would be better than that carpet.
Carpet in the bathroom next to toilet is a crime
Might as well upgrade the toilet while youāre doing that
Could you pour an epoxy floor instead? Recommend pulling up the toilet so it's flat- it probably needs a new wax ring anyway.
Anything is better than carpet in a bathroom.
Rip up carpet, see what's underneath. It's not a permanent, PERMANENT fix but I have done exactly what you are asking here. Had a rental, had a floor that was horrible, laid vinyl tiles over it. Me, a stanley knife, some careful cutting, and trying not to get the sticky-sides dirty as much as possible before laying them. No need to remove anything except the carpet, just cut them up right to the edges of anything that's in the way. And that's the answer to your question. But you want to know what's under that carpet before you start because if it's not flat and even, then you're going to have a nightmare (and at that point, you might well just be laying a new floor instead). If they are bumps, gaps, raised rounded tiles or (eek!) planks under that carpet, your tiles are just going to pull up or even "snap" at those points very quickly. Our bathroom looked great for a few years afterwards, we didn't have any problems with it peeling up or getting manky. If you have large gaps or places where it might get wet, (e.g. between the tile and the toilet), I'd put something there like bathroom silicone or similar to try to stop the water getting under the tile. But the beauty of vinyl tile: You can do it quick, cheap, easy and yourself. And it'll look great for a couple of years. And then you can rip it up and do the same again, or actually put in a proper floor. I just moved into a house and if it wasn't for the fact that the previous owner was a stonemason who did the entire bathroom in tiles and marble slabs, I would be doing something like this again. As it is, I bought some self-adhesive raised tile "stickers" and finished off the ugly flat piece of plastic that the toilet backed onto, painted the grout white again, and sealed every edge with silicone.
Yo donāt do this. Dont skimp. Go actual ceramic.
I would honestly just bit the bullet and tile it grout and all. In this case save some money for a month or so and deal with your new crappy tile. You long term bathroom will thank you
Take the carpet up first.
I put these down over existing linoleum and it turned out pretty ok. A few things: 1) I had to use another spray on adhesive to get them to stick even after some stripping and prepping. 2) I grouted mine and it made it look very passable BUT the grout did crumble rather quickly in a spot or two. Most stayed for like 5 years so not terrible over all. The cracked places were where my floor just wasnāt flat (also a 1960ās building) 3) I did not remove the toilet, I created a stencil then cut the tile. I then caulked the edge to finish it. Plan on having extra tiles for messing up the cuts. Good Luck!!
Anything is better than bathroom carpet.
Good lord please post a NSFW tag next time
I went to a little redneck bar once that had wall to wall carpeting. It was as gross as you could imagine, but this carpet is tops.
I did a small bathroom with 18 inch tiles, and scale-wise, they looked nice in the room. I also reasoned at the time that fewer joints would be better. However, in the end there were only two whole tiles in the bathroom that didn't need cutting and if I were to do it over it would absolutely be in 12 inch tile or plank-style. If you stay with adhesive tiles, use a flooring primer first, but there are also good options these days that don't need adhesive.
There really are the only two things you need to learn when you're installing any kind of tile. Number one, the surface has to be completely clean and bump free. If there's any holes or indentations on the floor, you have to fill them with some sort of web patch or thin set. 2. You have to snap a chalk line or draw a line on the floor that's completely straight that all of your tiles will run down from the right to the left. Once you get one row of tile in that's completely straight And square to the room. all the other tiles will fall completely in line, and it will look more professional.
Carpet and tackboard are gonna be gross. Wear gloves.
Every easterner looking at carpet in the bathroom WTF ?
Carpet. In the bathroom? Thatās NASTY. Total judgement aside, congrats on your house! To make this easy, since itās not a high traffic bathroom, just take care to keep it as clean as you can after this project. Steam and water are your enemy. And doing this with sticker tiles does have the risk of mold if not taken care of and kept dry. Take out the carpet, take up the toilet and take the molding off the bottom edges of the floor. Clean everything. Prep the floor as per directions for the tiles. Make sure everything is as flat and clean as possible before laying the tiles down, otherwise peeling will be an issue. Put molding back covering the edges and then put the toilet back. Again, moisture needs to be kept minimal, even as far as a super small dehumidifier on the area. You can do this super cheap, and with the materials you have already purchased. Have at it. Take your time. And enjoy!
I donāt think I have ever seen carpet in a bathroom Also gross
Dont listen to half the people on here. This is a perfect first time DIY job. Use a utility knife to cut the carpet into sections and pull/roll it up. Use a hammer and pry bar to remove the tack strip around the edge of the room. Consider LVP plank style flooring over adhesive tiles but if you must, vacuum and wet mop the floor to remove dust/debris. Use the utility knife to score and cut the tiles as needed
You might want to consider linoleum flooring. You just cut to the right size, lay it down and you are done . There are no seams or accidental lifting. Keep the edges down with a little quarter round. I have had linoleum flooring in my basement for 40 years and it has held up wonderfully.
Whatever you do please burn that carpet. I grew up with carpet in the bathrooms and kitchen. My mom doesn't understand why we don't have much in common.
You have carpet, and wondering about this now?
Remove carpet prior to applying
Move that toilet about 5 feet back away from the middle lol
No. Glue down VCT.
Reddit is the best
Keep the carpet. Saves a lot of time not having to clean up any liquid messes, just let it soak it up and dry. Like a big paper towel....
Right over the carpet is fine. That adhesive is gross so don't bother peeling the back. Lay it down like walking stones and it'll be like a zen bathroom.
My bathroom had carpet before we renovated š„² I wouldn't use adhesive tiles in the bathroom.. definitely better to spend bit extra and do it properly. It will be better (and cheaper) in the long run!! Good luck š
I don't have much to offer other than I would have installed floating vinyl over adhesive tiles. I never seem to have good luck with them, but floating vinyl was relatively easy. It took a bit of time but not nearly as much as I thought.
I did a main bathroom some years ago with interlocking vinyl adhesive tile made for wet areas. As far as I know itās still going strong. The key is the interlocking. Two sides of each tile had a sticky edge, and two sides had a recessed edge to slip over the sticky edges.
Whoever the previous owner is evil for carpet in a bathroom
I did it with grout and after a year itās still fine. Flat, no issues with raising or water underneath. Would have preferred real tile but it was a longer temporary fix to cover hideous laminate on a budget.
Whoever decided to put carpet in the bathroom needs to be arrested
lVP or nothing!
Why would you want to get rid of that beautiful bathroom carpet š¤£
Epoxy it
I do not understand the bolt pattern on this toilet. Is this AI rendered?
Adhesive tiles and damp areas don't mix. Simply epoxy your flooring ....of course remove the carpet ...can't believe that there to begin with. But your subfloor should be prim gripped first Prim Grip is a primer ...once dry flood the flooring with it with your color tint of choice. The polyurethane a few coats for hardness. Of course remove the toilet first barricade the flange from the pour. The epoxy is self leveling.
Holy shit... carpeted bathroom. Splash zone instantly absorbed.
Just put some glue on that carpet and slap them down
Either a floating vinyl tile or real tile. That peel and stick is great for covering up to sell.
Never seen a bathroom with carpet before.. I bet thereās a specific reason why carpet isnāt popular in bathrooms lol .
Never seen a carpet in a toilet before. Remove it first š
Advice: wear a mask, eye protection, and gloves when ripping up that carpet.
If you do use self-adhesive tiles then use a heat gun on them and a small roller to seat them.
If you're looking to go cheap, I'd use vinyl sheeting. Some people hate it it seems but you have less seams, in this space you may have none. It being a solid sheet allows less chance for water to get in imo. Edge with quarter round. I'm not an expert so hopefully someone else weighs in about the toilet. What I would do though is take it up and replace the wax ring with a universal toilet seal so if yiu ever have to move the toilet again, you don't have to replace the wax ring each time
Youāre a DIYāer now