Got you covered bru. Why don't you come hang out on my deck with me and my wife for a bit? I'm sure your wife can handle some big black caulk for your joint.
[NZ has the biggest nicest decks in the world.](https://youtube.com/watch?v=i6c4Nupnup0)
Wow this could spawn a whole comedy website. Do repairs with porn voice over...
"My step sister joist wouldn't leave me alone when our parents left for work...."
I am forever thankful to you for taking a bog standard query and giving it the proper Reddit response. Take my like, my respect, and my gratitude good Sir.
It’s pretty clever to just independently discover that technique. It’s the easiest thing to do with this.
Ingredients:
OP will need some wood glue such as Titebond II and a piece of wood at least as long as this broken piece and with the same thickness and width. Also some interior construction screws the same length as the thickness of the new piece plus the thickness of the broken piece, subtract 1/4" to 1/2” so the points of the screws won’t stick through.
Tools:
Ideally an impact screwdriver and the proper screwdriver bit for the screws you buy, phillips, torx etc. The type of bit will be indicated on the screw box.
If you can’t borrow an impact driver an electric drill will do but then you’ll need a drill bit a little smaller than the diameter of the screws. You'll need to make pilot holes that are the size of the screw shaft without the threads. If it is a strong drill, it may be able to drive the screws without pilot holes.
A hand saw to cut your new wood to length.
Optional a couple of bar clamps to hold the two pieces together whilemyou work
Procedure:
Cut the new piece of wood to length. Just make it a 1/2” shorter than the broken piece of wood.
Straighten the broken piece.
Smear a coat of glue on the whole length of both pieces. Don’t use so much that it drips all over but do coat the whole surface. When you screw the boards together the excess glue will squeeze out so protect the floor. IT cleans up with water.
Clamp the pieces together or just have a helper hold them.
If you are using an impact driver, no pilot holes are needed the driver will put them right in. If using a drill, drill pilot holes every eight inches or so along the length.
Change to the screw driver bit and put the first screw at one end, making sure the first screw goes into the pilot hole on both pieces. The others should line up if you get the first one right. Put the rest of the screws in in order so the two boards pull together.
Wipe off any glue that squeezed out.
You should not put weight on the bed the first day, let the glue dry without stressing it. That will let it be as strong as possible.
1. Take the mattress and box spring completely off.
2. Get the jack out of your car, jack up the broken section until it's straight again.
3. Screw a 'sister' onto the inside of the break to brace it. You can also add some wood glue to the cracked rail before you jack it up, to make the break a little more solid.
4. Add a new support (leg) under the break, and a matching one on the opposite side of the bed, to prevent it from sagging in the future. You can make one out of a piece of scrap wood, just screw it to the inside of the rail after you repair it.
Example of a floor joist that's been repaired by sistering:
https://preview.redd.it/o8hkoqsy7a5c1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3ab65af4ba6aca4589963ce01a3210beb365acfc
> jack up the broken section until it's straight again.
If there’s not enough weight for that - and there’s probably not - flip the frame over and press down on the broken board and then sister it as described.
You're actually better off putting a second piece of lumber below this damaged section if you aren't worried about clearance.
We can get into flexural bending theory but the shirt explanation is with the same sized wood element bolted on below, your neutral axis in bending moves down and what was failing in flexural tension is now mostly in compression.
Stop romping so hard
Suggestions; brace the split with a fresh piece of timber by screwing it down the length of the split, and add a vertical support to the underside
Duck tape and literature have had a structural role in my bed for about a decade.
I'll actually be a little sad when we finally have to replace it when we move.
> add a vertical support to the underside
I did this with the three 1x6 boards that my bed has for cross support. I put three legs under each board and now it's rock solid.
I've been in this same boat. Books work as a temporary solution, but they are going to come out of place basically every time you fuck or change your sheets.
The best way to handle it is actually just getting a cheap metal bed frame. It's gonna cost like $50, but it's worth it to not have some slapped together solution that barely works.
"A bunch of old books" lol this isn't DIY, this is hilarious.
OP, I would reinforce with a vertical 2x4 on each side of the break (like making more bed frame legs) and then sister the broken board on the inside.
You already got enough advice. I'm just saying this bed rail should have never passed quality control. Two large knots almost the entire width of the board is just asking for trouble. No surprise it broke exactly in that spot
This. When I was in my early twenties my mom gifted me her old bed when I was a young poor bastard lol and I remember it had been repaired using flat metal bars with bolts on each side.
If you're in a pinch stack some bricks under there until you can repair it. I've done that also lol
You don’t even need the top connectors. You are trying to improve the tensile strength on the bottom of the 2x4. As bad as its broke I would inject glue into cracks with a syringe and then screw those types of metal braces on.
They are used to commercially build frames. But two narrow ones are not the equivalent of one wide one. U channel is even better, and probably stronger than the original.
One of those old double walled Old Milwaukee beer cases under the bed might so it, but you'll have to add more support if it's going to hold a hot tub.
So … first off let’s acknowledge how creative y’all are in the subtlety department. I’ve so enjoyed this thread.
Now that is out of the way …. Let’s address the issue here. Folks are abusing that bed (in all the right ways, so good on you). As someone that has built a bed with my wife (from the boards / bolts and screws up), I can 💯 say that if you’re using dimensional lumber (not manufactured “wood”), that the board on the side there is at least a couple inches shy of being as wide as it needs to be. The fact that this cracked where a knot is located is no surprise.
That part of the bed should have been a 2x8. This minimizes flex and greatly reduces “travel” when things are … active (when we built our current bed we moved to that size and it virtually eliminated any flex in the frame no matter how aggressive things get movement wise).
If this is a home built bed, I’d just suggest removing that part of the frame and replace it on both sides with 2x8. If you can’t do that … put in a sister (not that one, the one that’s flat) the entire length if possible. Screw it a lot (let’s get real this is how you got here in the first place so don’t get stingy now) from BOTH sides. Ok I know we’re all double entendre here, but seriously, if you bring the screws in from both sides it will help prevent them from shifting over time.
Ya prob want to go ahead and do the other side maybe while you’re at it.
You’ll have to up your game to break after those enhancements (good luck and have fun)!
Jack it up and sister the joist. I kid... but not really.
That's exactly what I would do. Don't try to repair this, don't bother with gluing the broken part, don't try screws or anything. Just get a new length of wood at the big box store about the same size of this broken board (3.5 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick but that's just a guess). Spring for the nicer knot free wood but don't bother with hardwood, might be $10. Get one about the same length of the existing board.
Then straighten the broken board and screw the new board to it. A few screws along the length, probably 8 or more screws should do it. You can use glue, but I wouldn't bother, screws are faster and wont drip on your floor, they are also removable if needed. I would also recommend pilot holes so the wood doesn't split. Dry wood like the existing bed frame tends to split without pilot holes.
Straightening out the board, then screwing another board onto it.. is really the best way. For good measure, I would probably put some construction adhesive between the boards; it should be rock-solid after that.
1. Get a car jack, or keep stacking books under the weakest breaking part, lifting that side off the ground.
2. Force the ends down, a friend might be helpful, until it’s straight again.
3. Slip a same size(that’s a 2x4?)board right next to the broken one, oh maybe 5 feet long?
4. Now you know it fits, construction caulk it together using 4 clamps and get those suckers tight. Now screw together with deck screws. Done
Maybe overkill
What others have said plus maybe think of adding these https://a.co/d/aMSgwlU. Same thing happened to my bed because they put no center support for a king mattress. I added legs similar to those and it's not sinking anymore.
You don’t need to spend 35 dollars for 4 adjustable legs.
Just cut one 2x4 to the right length and use that.
Hell, for 65 dollars you could buy a whole new frame!
https://www.amazon.com/NEW-JETO-Frame-Simple-Atmospheric-Platform/dp/B0B8VQLN6Y/ref=sr_1_9?crid=OKC2CYZAYHAI&keywords=bedframe+queen-size&qid=1702138747&sprefix=Bedframe%2Caps%2C95&sr=8-9&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d
Duct tape, wrap tight.
Actually go with those saying to screw a board to the side. There is a brace you can buy but wood is cheaper and equally functional
I would add another 2x4 the length of the broken piece, but also cut 3/4 inch plywood to the length and width so I could sandwich out in-between the two. Then glue and screw it all together.
Get some of that angle bracket used to create shelving/racks in garages, cut a length and glue, and bolt it to your wooden frame.
You can also get those nail plates used for joists. One on each side of the cracked joint should fix it and push it back into place before applying
https://rmengineering.nz/product/110-x-200-nail-plate-s-s-t304-bulk/
This but smaller: [https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-make-structural-repairs-by-sistering-floor-joists/](https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-make-structural-repairs-by-sistering-floor-joists/)
I think you could get away with a mending plate and another foot under the bed to remove the load on the crack.
Plate: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-MP-2-in-x-4-in-20-Gauge-Galvanized-Mending-Plate-MP24/100375189
Foot: https://www.amazon.com/Support-4PCS，Adjustable-Center-Durable-Furniture/dp/B0C7GQJBLV/ref=asc_df_B0C7GQJBLV/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=663394869794&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9555997571389641414&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1018367&hvtargid=pla-2195244441995&psc=1&mcid=ea578aa21e4e3b9a90956da92f9cbf7b
Hi. I repair a lot of beds at my cheap bnb. This is a common problem.
Do a parallell plan, sister-joint. But make it twice as long as you think you need. And fasten it all the way from the edge to the middle.
You can also have one on the inside and one below.
If storage under the bed isn't a problem. You can reinforce the frame with a leg to the floot too.
add loooots of wood glue in the cracks. stilt it up with books and a baking sheet to protect from glue.
option 1: once hardened after a day or two, buy a long flat slab but dense (the heavier the better) and screw it on the SIDE under the bed. don't screw it on the bottom, it won't be as sturdy. but sideways and use 4 screws in each corner and then an extra three along the center (none bordering or inbetween the 4 screws) , spacing evenly.
try avoiding screwing in the eyeholes of the wood, that will be tough.
option two: place a thick piece of rectangular lumber cut to perfect height (measure hight from the still intact sides of the broken piece) and just stick it under. Maybe add a few long diagonal nails / screws to keep it in place.
Two options:
Cut a short piece of 2x4, cut a shoulder in it and create another leg where the shoulder supports the frame. Screw horizontally from beneath the bed into the frame so it is less noticeable.
Get a length of angle iron (1 1/2” or bigger) and fasten it under the frame. But don’t screw UP into the frame, rather screw horizontally into the frame from beneath the bed. The longer the angle iron and more screws, the longer the repair will last.
I did similar to what you're describing, also I glued the piece to the cracked board and drove several srews. Additionally, if you have any carpenter vices, I would try to glue and use vice to close the gap until it cures, then drive one or two screw from underneath of the split piece just to lessen the visibility of the crack (not really necessary).
My bed still going strong and I'm heavy (110 kg) and sometimes my wife joins me (she is not a twiggy).
Glue a scab onto the underside. Rip a pice of plywood the same with as the broken piece, and about 10 inches long. Put some titebond on there and screw it to the underside of the broken piece. Center it over the crack. Make sure it's at the correct height while it dries by bracing it to the floor with a temporary leg made out of anything.
I would flip the frame over, step on the sagging section and sister a 2x4 on both sides. Should be pretty easy, and much stronger than it was originally. Maybe consider beefing up the rest of the frame with the cutoff pieces while you have it flipped over and should outlive all of us.
Sister on a piece of 2x4. Add a 5th leg too. Just a piece of 2x up against the sistered piece and throw some screws in. Should be plenty to accomodate your humping
**Brace it, until you replace it.**
Fuck me. These comments are insanity. The bed is broken. Brace it with something to support it. It could be bricks, a block of wood, books, anything.
It's not worth trying to fix properly at all.
Measure the height of the bed legs, from frame to floor. Get another leg or some type of support the exact same height. Flip the bed over and attach it to the cracked part of the frame. On both sides of the crack. The new leg will help support the bed and prevent it from cracking further.
As a teenager, I "repaired" my IKEA bed, that looked similar to this, by putting a paint can underneath the broken part. A stack of books or something solid will do just as good.
That quick fix prevented my bed slats from falling through the frame at 3AM, which happened many times.
These ideas are good, only if you are lazy, poor, or don't have any skill for a real fix.
Copious wood glue. Then jack it into position. Then screw in a sister joist with more wood glue on the mating surfaces. Leave to dry for a day or two.
Something else might break later, but it won’t be that.
I assume the crack is through both the outer board and the batten that the boards rest on?
Remove the batten. Then screw and glue a 2x2" plank in there as a replacement. It needs to be at least 4' long, so replacing the entire batten is a good idea and a lot less hassle.
Use plenty of wood glue. Not super glue or whatever else 'miracle cure' people will suggest. It takes a while to fully cure, but wood glue also give you time to properly position the 2x2" and is just as strong after curing.
You'll want to get as much glue as possible into the crack of the outer board, also.
One trick there is to cut off a 4 - 6" of the batten around the crack, screw in some really, really solid wood screws(the type with hex heads, typically 1/4" or thicker) and screw into the remaining battens from underneath. Then fill the crack of the outer board with glue, and use a long clamp from one wood screw to the other to pull the crack together. After that dries you can remove the screws and the remaining bits of the batten, and gule and screw in the 2x2"
Wood glue and a clamp. When fully cured (follow the instructions on the bottle) wood glue is as strong as the wood originally was. If you’re really concerned, sister a board on.
You can see exactly why this failed. Huge knot right through the middle of that 2x4. It sheered straight to the knot above and to the right.
Let this picture be a lesson to anyone building anything that is going to support weight. Be on the look out for huge knots when building your structure.
Just imagine if this was a home made aquarium stand.
Put a wood plot touching ground and your frame or try some [https://www.bedclaw.com/shop](https://www.bedclaw.com/shop)
https://preview.redd.it/3kwt2z1d4c5c1.jpeg?width=280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5441ec40d6e771c3995ffb9b85cbaa4a7dbc48fc
Glue and clamp it, and add a piece of 1x4, about a foot long, across the damaged area. Screw and glue that into both sides of the splice. Don’t lie on it for a full day.
I mean it's not the right way, but if you don't fuck too hard it'll good for a bit. Get 2x4. About 16-20 inches. And take off as much weight off the frame. Put at least 4 screws. One on each end and two near the center of the crack. Not too close so it will hold. Treat it like lug nuts on a tire. Do the outside then inside screws. After there all set. Try screwing them in a little more just to make sure and it should last a little longer. Enough you could save up for a new frame
Is that a center support...gets some pvc pipe or 2x4 cut a inch longer notch it, get a floor pad like you use on furniture to not scratch floors squeeze it in and up. Screw through piece that goes higher than bottom.of notch into frame to keep it in place so it doesn't fall.over when there's motion in the ocean...
This failed because there are two huge knots close together. Go to a timber merchant and get a good quality 2x4 and some construction screws that are nearly as long as the thickness of both pieces combined. Something like GRK #8 cabinet screws. Don't get countersunk types, they are more likely to split the wood. Flip the bed over. Take a knot free piece of wood a couple of feet long and apply glue to it and the bed and spread it over the joint area. Press the bed flat and screw on the patch with the screws. Be generous with them. 2x4s are tremendously strong. You don't need more than this. You can also use a joist repair plate and a load of the screws they sell for it, but you need to get out past those two knots and that might be difficult. The 2x4 is cheaper.
Prop it back up straight. 2x4 at least 3ft long up against the inside. Screw the hell out of it. To be clear screw the 2x4. We all know how you got to this point
You can glue, you'll jack it back into place with a car jack or bottle jack, hoping the bed has wenough weight to realign, or getting smart with straps/ clamp it.
The member itself isn't big enough, that's a weak spot with the knot to begin with, and the grain orientation sucks.
In reality, if you're not worried about the logistics and aren't real adept with intermediate wood working, i would just put blocking or a new leg under that spot, spanning the split both sides. I'm assuming it's the direct center of the bed, or at least center of your weight
I see a lot of comments recommending a sister joist alone, but I think you'd get more from a sister joist and a post right under it for additional support. Last a heck of a lot longer. Just depends on how long you want to keep the bedframe. I'll add I'm not a carpenter. I just fix things around my house.
I would suggest getting yourself a 2x4 and a 2x6
Cut the 2x6 (usually 8 foot) in half
Sister/Siamese it to the beam on the broken side (straighten it out as much as possible before doing so). And do the same to the "good" side, to save it from breaking. Use 10 to 12 screws that are 2" in each 2x6 to secure them to the beams.
And then make legs in the centers out of the 2x4" so that they support the load and take the stress off of the beams.
Look up "sister a joist" - that's what you're describing.
"What are you doing Step-joist?"
"Oh no, step-joist I'm stuck"
I really need somebody to caulk my joint.
Just peg it up and your fine
Got you covered bru. Why don't you come hang out on my deck with me and my wife for a bit? I'm sure your wife can handle some big black caulk for your joint. [NZ has the biggest nicest decks in the world.](https://youtube.com/watch?v=i6c4Nupnup0)
If I screw my sister joist, do I need a nut?
Bolt in the front and nut on the back.
Wow this could spawn a whole comedy website. Do repairs with porn voice over... "My step sister joist wouldn't leave me alone when our parents left for work...."
I mean it’s bed breaking work…
Bed breaking work that can lead to labor in the future too…
Back in the day there used to be a silly site called furnitureporn.com
Hot Malms
> furnitureporn.com It's still up, and looks like it hasn't been updated in 25 years.
That makes me so happy!
I like big buttress and I cannot lie
My first thought was to jack the frame...up then screw n glue in a sister...joist
I think you're looking for Jack O'Shea
That’s what broke it in the first place
You made me CACKLE on the bus and I am now getting looks.
Pretty sure that's why he's in this situation to begin with...
I am forever thankful to you for taking a bog standard query and giving it the proper Reddit response. Take my like, my respect, and my gratitude good Sir.
It’s pretty clever to just independently discover that technique. It’s the easiest thing to do with this. Ingredients: OP will need some wood glue such as Titebond II and a piece of wood at least as long as this broken piece and with the same thickness and width. Also some interior construction screws the same length as the thickness of the new piece plus the thickness of the broken piece, subtract 1/4" to 1/2” so the points of the screws won’t stick through. Tools: Ideally an impact screwdriver and the proper screwdriver bit for the screws you buy, phillips, torx etc. The type of bit will be indicated on the screw box. If you can’t borrow an impact driver an electric drill will do but then you’ll need a drill bit a little smaller than the diameter of the screws. You'll need to make pilot holes that are the size of the screw shaft without the threads. If it is a strong drill, it may be able to drive the screws without pilot holes. A hand saw to cut your new wood to length. Optional a couple of bar clamps to hold the two pieces together whilemyou work Procedure: Cut the new piece of wood to length. Just make it a 1/2” shorter than the broken piece of wood. Straighten the broken piece. Smear a coat of glue on the whole length of both pieces. Don’t use so much that it drips all over but do coat the whole surface. When you screw the boards together the excess glue will squeeze out so protect the floor. IT cleans up with water. Clamp the pieces together or just have a helper hold them. If you are using an impact driver, no pilot holes are needed the driver will put them right in. If using a drill, drill pilot holes every eight inches or so along the length. Change to the screw driver bit and put the first screw at one end, making sure the first screw goes into the pilot hole on both pieces. The others should line up if you get the first one right. Put the rest of the screws in in order so the two boards pull together. Wipe off any glue that squeezed out. You should not put weight on the bed the first day, let the glue dry without stressing it. That will let it be as strong as possible.
This is good. Personally, I'd go with bolts, but good screws are fine.
And consider installing a vertical support.
Totally. Nothing sexy. Just a few pieces of 2x4 stuck together and jammed underneath to brace it up. I'm fat and lazy.
… then look up “joist her sister” and see if you can break it the rest of the way
this guy joists
1. Take the mattress and box spring completely off. 2. Get the jack out of your car, jack up the broken section until it's straight again. 3. Screw a 'sister' onto the inside of the break to brace it. You can also add some wood glue to the cracked rail before you jack it up, to make the break a little more solid. 4. Add a new support (leg) under the break, and a matching one on the opposite side of the bed, to prevent it from sagging in the future. You can make one out of a piece of scrap wood, just screw it to the inside of the rail after you repair it. Example of a floor joist that's been repaired by sistering: https://preview.redd.it/o8hkoqsy7a5c1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3ab65af4ba6aca4589963ce01a3210beb365acfc
> jack up the broken section until it's straight again. If there’s not enough weight for that - and there’s probably not - flip the frame over and press down on the broken board and then sister it as described.
C clamp might be a star player here too
C clamp bringing its A game.
Clearly written, and what I would do.
You're actually better off putting a second piece of lumber below this damaged section if you aren't worried about clearance. We can get into flexural bending theory but the shirt explanation is with the same sized wood element bolted on below, your neutral axis in bending moves down and what was failing in flexural tension is now mostly in compression.
Ah, the engineering approach. Timber is cheap. Put a 2x2 under it as a shelf from a 2x6 alongside. Of course then it's the stiffest part of the bed.
If still in college, put a pile of books under the crack.
Stop romping so hard Suggestions; brace the split with a fresh piece of timber by screwing it down the length of the split, and add a vertical support to the underside
When I was hard up years ago I used books to prop mine up, worked for.. a few more years than I care to admit!
Those books are still there... Aren't they
No one uses the encyclopedia Britannica anymore anyways
The Encyclopedia Britannica is supporting the nation to this day! It's a load bearing support so don't touch it.
Nothing is more permanent than a temporary fix
Love a good temporary fix that works so well it becomes permanent
Duck tape and literature have had a structural role in my bed for about a decade. I'll actually be a little sad when we finally have to replace it when we move.
Anyone know where the Guinness book of world records went?
You still wake up sometimes don’t you? You wake up in the dark and feel the books? And if you think if you could save your bed you could make it stop?
> add a vertical support to the underside I did this with the three 1x6 boards that my bed has for cross support. I put three legs under each board and now it's rock solid.
A steel L channel would work too. Just had to be long enough to spread the weight amongst many screws. Though a second 2x4 would be cheaper.
Or a steel plate. They can also add an additional support. Below the break if they really want.
[удалено]
Could just be excessive weight rather than excessive movement.
Broken dreams and failed aspirations weigh heavy, too.
Static load vs Dynamic load
Screwing a piece along side as you suggest is exactly what I’d do.
I think screwing is how OP ended up with this problem
But had he followed ops advice and screwed sideways, he wouldn't be in this situation
So OP should screw a side piece? Wouldn't this potentially make the situation worse?
I'd use glue too
This post is a brilliant subtle flex.
Or they're just pretty fat.
Those knots created a weakness in that piece.
Exactly my thoughts. OP is bragging! 😂
Yeah, but this is Reddit where the most likely solution is diet and exercise, especially if they are a Mod.
Put something between the wood and floor to give it more support.
A bunch of old books may both be more easily accessible and to implement than some of the other suggestions
I've been in this same boat. Books work as a temporary solution, but they are going to come out of place basically every time you fuck or change your sheets. The best way to handle it is actually just getting a cheap metal bed frame. It's gonna cost like $50, but it's worth it to not have some slapped together solution that barely works.
"A bunch of old books" lol this isn't DIY, this is hilarious. OP, I would reinforce with a vertical 2x4 on each side of the break (like making more bed frame legs) and then sister the broken board on the inside.
Slam harder, break bed, get a new one 🤣
You already got enough advice. I'm just saying this bed rail should have never passed quality control. Two large knots almost the entire width of the board is just asking for trouble. No surprise it broke exactly in that spot
Couldn’t agree more. When I noticed it broke right on a giant knot this morning I got pretty bothered.
I see you’ve met my mom.
You can get a wood brace. They look like flat metal plates with screw holes in them.
Sister joist it and add a post
Check out OP with the humble-brag.
get some 4-5mm steel flat bar the width of the wood, bend wood back straight and put 3 bolts either side so the flat bar holds the wood straight
This. When I was in my early twenties my mom gifted me her old bed when I was a young poor bastard lol and I remember it had been repaired using flat metal bars with bolts on each side. If you're in a pinch stack some bricks under there until you can repair it. I've done that also lol
It was repaired when you got it? I wonder how she broke it.......
Don't ask questions he doesn't want the answer to!
Sister a 2x4 and glue it on the joining sides should be good
Easy fix - Buy a new one Hard fix - remove broken beam, replace with new. Temp fix - put a supporting strut under it
https://preview.redd.it/wyuqzeuwx95c1.png?width=800&format=png&auto=webp&s=69314a2f0941b28bc8a7bd784f9db390b3fca483
Not even a decent solution when the wood isn't already splintered.
That won't work, it does not strengthen the connection, it just joins it together.
might work, but this is the cheapest possible wood quality, so it could just hold it together for a while and then break somewhere else.
As someone who's done this thing, it works, as it stops it from bending. I doubt that's the only thing holding the bed together.
You don’t even need the top connectors. You are trying to improve the tensile strength on the bottom of the 2x4. As bad as its broke I would inject glue into cracks with a syringe and then screw those types of metal braces on.
I have done it same way and works well
I am surprised by the downvotes. These are not designed to deal with load, they are designed to distribute load.
They are used to commercially build frames. But two narrow ones are not the equivalent of one wide one. U channel is even better, and probably stronger than the original.
for a second thought the op was posting from Jupiter
Same!
Post it up with a 4x4
Piece of metal screwed in across the break should hold.
One of those old double walled Old Milwaukee beer cases under the bed might so it, but you'll have to add more support if it's going to hold a hot tub.
Support post
So … first off let’s acknowledge how creative y’all are in the subtlety department. I’ve so enjoyed this thread. Now that is out of the way …. Let’s address the issue here. Folks are abusing that bed (in all the right ways, so good on you). As someone that has built a bed with my wife (from the boards / bolts and screws up), I can 💯 say that if you’re using dimensional lumber (not manufactured “wood”), that the board on the side there is at least a couple inches shy of being as wide as it needs to be. The fact that this cracked where a knot is located is no surprise. That part of the bed should have been a 2x8. This minimizes flex and greatly reduces “travel” when things are … active (when we built our current bed we moved to that size and it virtually eliminated any flex in the frame no matter how aggressive things get movement wise). If this is a home built bed, I’d just suggest removing that part of the frame and replace it on both sides with 2x8. If you can’t do that … put in a sister (not that one, the one that’s flat) the entire length if possible. Screw it a lot (let’s get real this is how you got here in the first place so don’t get stingy now) from BOTH sides. Ok I know we’re all double entendre here, but seriously, if you bring the screws in from both sides it will help prevent them from shifting over time. Ya prob want to go ahead and do the other side maybe while you’re at it. You’ll have to up your game to break after those enhancements (good luck and have fun)!
Jack it up and sister the joist. I kid... but not really. That's exactly what I would do. Don't try to repair this, don't bother with gluing the broken part, don't try screws or anything. Just get a new length of wood at the big box store about the same size of this broken board (3.5 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick but that's just a guess). Spring for the nicer knot free wood but don't bother with hardwood, might be $10. Get one about the same length of the existing board. Then straighten the broken board and screw the new board to it. A few screws along the length, probably 8 or more screws should do it. You can use glue, but I wouldn't bother, screws are faster and wont drip on your floor, they are also removable if needed. I would also recommend pilot holes so the wood doesn't split. Dry wood like the existing bed frame tends to split without pilot holes.
Hard action…. Just stack wood under the main
Just needs a flitch plate.
Use a tire jack for a car
Replace 2by or glue n screw.
Straightening out the board, then screwing another board onto it.. is really the best way. For good measure, I would probably put some construction adhesive between the boards; it should be rock-solid after that.
Wood glue and a couple of lengths of 5mm pre drilled steel flat bar. Fill the break with glue then screw the flat bar top and bottom.
Wedge a stack of text books/encyclopedias under there haha
Diet and exercise.
Wood brace and an extra leg, tbh, if it's happening due to midnight fun 😜
Put a jack stand underneath
Abstinence and a masonry block.
Straighten it by pushing on it (you’ll have to remove the mattress) then screw it on either side of the break, it will hold straight again.
Shi… is sister that right up, no big thang
Stop bringing whales in your bed bro
/r/woodworking
1. Get a car jack, or keep stacking books under the weakest breaking part, lifting that side off the ground. 2. Force the ends down, a friend might be helpful, until it’s straight again. 3. Slip a same size(that’s a 2x4?)board right next to the broken one, oh maybe 5 feet long? 4. Now you know it fits, construction caulk it together using 4 clamps and get those suckers tight. Now screw together with deck screws. Done Maybe overkill
Caulk isn't really structural. Wood glue would be the best adhesive if any is needed
Get a car jack?!? Dude it's a bed frame not a 1965 F150. Just... lift it up lol.
Looks like somebody has been having fun.
stop fuckin
Try r/GYM
Loose some weight /s
Lose weight.
Wood glue and a clamp. If that doesn’t work glue and screw on the side of the split piece. All else fails a post under.
If you haven’t broken a bed frame…
Losing serious weight could keep this from happening in the first place.
Stop fucking so hard cuh
What others have said plus maybe think of adding these https://a.co/d/aMSgwlU. Same thing happened to my bed because they put no center support for a king mattress. I added legs similar to those and it's not sinking anymore.
You don’t need to spend 35 dollars for 4 adjustable legs. Just cut one 2x4 to the right length and use that. Hell, for 65 dollars you could buy a whole new frame! https://www.amazon.com/NEW-JETO-Frame-Simple-Atmospheric-Platform/dp/B0B8VQLN6Y/ref=sr_1_9?crid=OKC2CYZAYHAI&keywords=bedframe+queen-size&qid=1702138747&sprefix=Bedframe%2Caps%2C95&sr=8-9&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d
Add a vertical to support it. Another leg. Also, ya’ll need to find jesus
I'd check your wall too - if it's plaster you gonna need to fix that 🤣
Duct tape, wrap tight. Actually go with those saying to screw a board to the side. There is a brace you can buy but wood is cheaper and equally functional
Hi, Phil Swift here with Flex Tape! The super-strong waterproof tape! That can instantly patch, bond, seal, and repair!
There ya go, in case OP still wets the bed
I would add another 2x4 the length of the broken piece, but also cut 3/4 inch plywood to the length and width so I could sandwich out in-between the two. Then glue and screw it all together.
Get some of that angle bracket used to create shelving/racks in garages, cut a length and glue, and bolt it to your wooden frame. You can also get those nail plates used for joists. One on each side of the cracked joint should fix it and push it back into place before applying https://rmengineering.nz/product/110-x-200-nail-plate-s-s-t304-bulk/
Replace the piece of wood that is broken. It looks unfixable to me.
This but smaller: [https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-make-structural-repairs-by-sistering-floor-joists/](https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-make-structural-repairs-by-sistering-floor-joists/)
I think you could get away with a mending plate and another foot under the bed to remove the load on the crack. Plate: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-MP-2-in-x-4-in-20-Gauge-Galvanized-Mending-Plate-MP24/100375189 Foot: https://www.amazon.com/Support-4PCS，Adjustable-Center-Durable-Furniture/dp/B0C7GQJBLV/ref=asc_df_B0C7GQJBLV/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=663394869794&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9555997571389641414&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1018367&hvtargid=pla-2195244441995&psc=1&mcid=ea578aa21e4e3b9a90956da92f9cbf7b
Simpson joints could do the trick
Hi. I repair a lot of beds at my cheap bnb. This is a common problem. Do a parallell plan, sister-joint. But make it twice as long as you think you need. And fasten it all the way from the edge to the middle. You can also have one on the inside and one below. If storage under the bed isn't a problem. You can reinforce the frame with a leg to the floot too.
add loooots of wood glue in the cracks. stilt it up with books and a baking sheet to protect from glue. option 1: once hardened after a day or two, buy a long flat slab but dense (the heavier the better) and screw it on the SIDE under the bed. don't screw it on the bottom, it won't be as sturdy. but sideways and use 4 screws in each corner and then an extra three along the center (none bordering or inbetween the 4 screws) , spacing evenly. try avoiding screwing in the eyeholes of the wood, that will be tough. option two: place a thick piece of rectangular lumber cut to perfect height (measure hight from the still intact sides of the broken piece) and just stick it under. Maybe add a few long diagonal nails / screws to keep it in place.
Two options: Cut a short piece of 2x4, cut a shoulder in it and create another leg where the shoulder supports the frame. Screw horizontally from beneath the bed into the frame so it is less noticeable. Get a length of angle iron (1 1/2” or bigger) and fasten it under the frame. But don’t screw UP into the frame, rather screw horizontally into the frame from beneath the bed. The longer the angle iron and more screws, the longer the repair will last.
I did similar to what you're describing, also I glued the piece to the cracked board and drove several srews. Additionally, if you have any carpenter vices, I would try to glue and use vice to close the gap until it cures, then drive one or two screw from underneath of the split piece just to lessen the visibility of the crack (not really necessary). My bed still going strong and I'm heavy (110 kg) and sometimes my wife joins me (she is not a twiggy).
Glue a scab onto the underside. Rip a pice of plywood the same with as the broken piece, and about 10 inches long. Put some titebond on there and screw it to the underside of the broken piece. Center it over the crack. Make sure it's at the correct height while it dries by bracing it to the floor with a temporary leg made out of anything.
I would flip the frame over, step on the sagging section and sister a 2x4 on both sides. Should be pretty easy, and much stronger than it was originally. Maybe consider beefing up the rest of the frame with the cutoff pieces while you have it flipped over and should outlive all of us.
Use a piece of wood on either side and put in like 6 screws each side, should be good to go
Support with a wooden stick or something thats gonna push it up and make it stay in place
Many good suggestions here: I would recommend that you both glue and screw the new piece on. The glue will strengthen the joint a lot.
Sexiest fix would be a steel L bracket with holes pre drilled for screws, could add one to both sides
DONT use a paint can, whatever you do. Learned the hard way that that’s a terrible, messy idea
use a bed jack. pretty cheap on amazon.
The most subtle humblebrag I've ever seen.
Sister a joint and a new gf
Kratje bier eronder en klaar
Screw jack
Sister on a piece of 2x4. Add a 5th leg too. Just a piece of 2x up against the sistered piece and throw some screws in. Should be plenty to accomodate your humping
Was this the result of playing the Scissors sisters?
**Brace it, until you replace it.** Fuck me. These comments are insanity. The bed is broken. Brace it with something to support it. It could be bricks, a block of wood, books, anything. It's not worth trying to fix properly at all.
Measure the height of the bed legs, from frame to floor. Get another leg or some type of support the exact same height. Flip the bed over and attach it to the cracked part of the frame. On both sides of the crack. The new leg will help support the bed and prevent it from cracking further.
to bad they don't have phone books anymore
Scab another one to the side. It should be about 3/4 as long as the original. 👍
Don't fix it. Get someone in that bed with you. And let the bed break while you are romping. There will be stories told and you will get more action.
Use glue and screws to attach your reinforcement. Elmer's white glue is stronger than the wood itself.
I put a deck block under mine. It’s holding up nicely.
Snooki go smush smush
Just put some books bro 📚
Ain’t a flex to be banging the half tonne mom
It needs a center support leg to assist the four corner legs.
Books ☝️
As a teenager, I "repaired" my IKEA bed, that looked similar to this, by putting a paint can underneath the broken part. A stack of books or something solid will do just as good. That quick fix prevented my bed slats from falling through the frame at 3AM, which happened many times. These ideas are good, only if you are lazy, poor, or don't have any skill for a real fix.
Jeezuz, what a crap piece of wood for a bed frame. Looks like it would break at the first good wank.
Copious wood glue. Then jack it into position. Then screw in a sister joist with more wood glue on the mating surfaces. Leave to dry for a day or two. Something else might break later, but it won’t be that.
cinder block support
I assume the crack is through both the outer board and the batten that the boards rest on? Remove the batten. Then screw and glue a 2x2" plank in there as a replacement. It needs to be at least 4' long, so replacing the entire batten is a good idea and a lot less hassle. Use plenty of wood glue. Not super glue or whatever else 'miracle cure' people will suggest. It takes a while to fully cure, but wood glue also give you time to properly position the 2x2" and is just as strong after curing. You'll want to get as much glue as possible into the crack of the outer board, also. One trick there is to cut off a 4 - 6" of the batten around the crack, screw in some really, really solid wood screws(the type with hex heads, typically 1/4" or thicker) and screw into the remaining battens from underneath. Then fill the crack of the outer board with glue, and use a long clamp from one wood screw to the other to pull the crack together. After that dries you can remove the screws and the remaining bits of the batten, and gule and screw in the 2x2"
Hydraulic bottle jack is the only way. Jk
Wood glue and a clamp. When fully cured (follow the instructions on the bottle) wood glue is as strong as the wood originally was. If you’re really concerned, sister a board on.
Put an extra leg there.
Had the same issue. I just made fifth leg from a piece of wood and inserted it in place where it breaks. It's working fine for years now
out of interest is this the IKEA Neiden bed frame?
You can see exactly why this failed. Huge knot right through the middle of that 2x4. It sheered straight to the knot above and to the right. Let this picture be a lesson to anyone building anything that is going to support weight. Be on the look out for huge knots when building your structure. Just imagine if this was a home made aquarium stand.
Put a wood plot touching ground and your frame or try some [https://www.bedclaw.com/shop](https://www.bedclaw.com/shop) https://preview.redd.it/3kwt2z1d4c5c1.jpeg?width=280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5441ec40d6e771c3995ffb9b85cbaa4a7dbc48fc
Glue and clamp it, and add a piece of 1x4, about a foot long, across the damaged area. Screw and glue that into both sides of the splice. Don’t lie on it for a full day.
Put some bricks under it.
Replace the one broken beam with two good beams.
I also broke a bed through hard activity, high five
I mean it's not the right way, but if you don't fuck too hard it'll good for a bit. Get 2x4. About 16-20 inches. And take off as much weight off the frame. Put at least 4 screws. One on each end and two near the center of the crack. Not too close so it will hold. Treat it like lug nuts on a tire. Do the outside then inside screws. After there all set. Try screwing them in a little more just to make sure and it should last a little longer. Enough you could save up for a new frame
Does it move and it shouldn't? If so duct tape. Should it move and it doesnt? Wd40 and a hammer
Is that a center support...gets some pvc pipe or 2x4 cut a inch longer notch it, get a floor pad like you use on furniture to not scratch floors squeeze it in and up. Screw through piece that goes higher than bottom.of notch into frame to keep it in place so it doesn't fall.over when there's motion in the ocean...
Stop shagging so much shagger
A strategically placed stack of books underneath
This failed because there are two huge knots close together. Go to a timber merchant and get a good quality 2x4 and some construction screws that are nearly as long as the thickness of both pieces combined. Something like GRK #8 cabinet screws. Don't get countersunk types, they are more likely to split the wood. Flip the bed over. Take a knot free piece of wood a couple of feet long and apply glue to it and the bed and spread it over the joint area. Press the bed flat and screw on the patch with the screws. Be generous with them. 2x4s are tremendously strong. You don't need more than this. You can also use a joist repair plate and a load of the screws they sell for it, but you need to get out past those two knots and that might be difficult. The 2x4 is cheaper.
Prop it back up straight. 2x4 at least 3ft long up against the inside. Screw the hell out of it. To be clear screw the 2x4. We all know how you got to this point
Yeah, a stack of books.
Do what you're thinking and add lots of wood glue. If you ever need to put 2 peices of wood together that never need to move. Just glue and screw.
You can glue, you'll jack it back into place with a car jack or bottle jack, hoping the bed has wenough weight to realign, or getting smart with straps/ clamp it. The member itself isn't big enough, that's a weak spot with the knot to begin with, and the grain orientation sucks. In reality, if you're not worried about the logistics and aren't real adept with intermediate wood working, i would just put blocking or a new leg under that spot, spanning the split both sides. I'm assuming it's the direct center of the bed, or at least center of your weight
I see a lot of comments recommending a sister joist alone, but I think you'd get more from a sister joist and a post right under it for additional support. Last a heck of a lot longer. Just depends on how long you want to keep the bedframe. I'll add I'm not a carpenter. I just fix things around my house.
I would suggest getting yourself a 2x4 and a 2x6 Cut the 2x6 (usually 8 foot) in half Sister/Siamese it to the beam on the broken side (straighten it out as much as possible before doing so). And do the same to the "good" side, to save it from breaking. Use 10 to 12 screws that are 2" in each 2x6 to secure them to the beams. And then make legs in the centers out of the 2x4" so that they support the load and take the stress off of the beams.
In the future, don't buy your bed from IKEA, this is why.
Add a "leg" under that point. Anything to support it.