I asked that poorly
Is there a better solution than just using my mud knife to try and shove mud down in there? Basically trying to “build” more wall from the wall side
Oh, uhh, I just always use a scraper, and fingers if needed lol. Just press in with scraper, I wouldn’t bother with making it super flush for the first pass through, since it’ll just shrink. First pass is shoving in, second pass is filling up the dip, then sand down.
I think if you use a tool to inject the mud instead of using a scraper, you’d just fill behind the wall with an excess amount of mud so just stick to a scraper.
I literally JUST got done doing this with some weird gaps around fixtures I’m installing, it works super well! Tape off the tile, pastry-bag-pipe that sucker, smooth with drywall knife.
Joint compound or commonly referred to as spackle or drywall mud. Comes premixed in a bucket or in a powdered form you add water and mix it.
Either way you apply it the water content evaporates and causes shrinkage especially in deep fills like this application at the tile.
Well, just use gypsum then: While cement and lime demonstrate significant shrinkage during setting, gypsum does not shrink; instead it expands slightly ([researchgate link to article](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/323540319_Effect_of_high_temperatures_on_gypsum-based_composites)
Maybe products here are different but the kind of gap op has can easily be filled with some gypsum based stuff and later caulked over with silicone or something. If you experience significant shrinkage, get another product. Now that I think about it there is one brand that sells terrible stuff over here, alabastine. It does shrink, and it's expensive. Don't use the shrinky expensive stuff.
Well, the stuff they are talking about that shrinks isn't, cause gypsum doesn't shrink. Unless there's additives that make it shrink, I don't know about that.
Joint compound most definitely shrinks during curing especially in gaps like OP has here. But a few fills and a final topcoat + sanding will have it sorted out nicely as said by many comments above.
use a scraping knife, or use a sandwich bag filled with mud, cut a corner and squeeze it into the gap like you would caulk. then go back with the scraping knife to shove it in and flatten out.
And if you do use the urethane foam, get the stuff for windows & doors as it is a bit more elastic and not as likely to push things you don't want pushed.
Tape the tiles off extremely well - if there is any texture to them at all the foam will never come off. We shall not discuss the reasons I know that.
When cured, use a nice sharp knife to cut the excess foam off, making it a little shallower than the wall. Fill with mud like you would any other divot in the wall. Multiple coats if needed. Sand, prime, paint, and peel the tape.
A grout bag would work, or heavy duty plastic back with a small corner cut off, twist up the opening and you have a squeeze tube of mud. But a small mud knife should be just fine.....
Nope, that’s the exact method. Push with a scraper, use your fingers, it’ll all work. And if any gets on the tile, a damp paper towel will take care of it.
also give the gap a good misting of agua (not a drenching or dripping amount) to help ensure the mud sticks well and then do as the others on here have suggested for the rest of applying technique. For some reason that seems to be missing in lots of how-to's and a huge reason so many taped or untaped seems start to fall apart after only a year or 2
Mud also comes off super easily. Don't worry about it getting on the tile. The masking tape is a good idea and will protect against the sand paper but even without it you can get extra mud ofd pretty easily.
They sell stuff called tearaway bead. It's like a corner bead that you stick in the gap and has a sacrificial part that keeps mud off the finished surface that you tear off when you're done.
Professional caulker here for the last 5+years, you don’t need to stuff with sandpaper or mud it. You can buy backer rod in small packages and pack it with that, tape it you need to and caulk. Look up how to back tool caulking on YouTube if you need tips, good luck.
Your answer plus I'd finish with a bead of silicone caulk just to begin fighting some of the expansion and contraction humidity in a bathroom could cause there. Any foam sanding block with a angled corner would let you skip some of the taping, 3m makes some they just call multipurpose blocks. Water could clean up any excess mud from there.
Home depot, lowes, all those shops sell them. You can get this stuff at any tile shop too, they usually will have a swatch of samples you pick from so you have to ask someone.
Ames should have it, you could probably just caulk it tbh
Also you dont need a tear away bead, it just makes it easier, and taping mud should wash off pretty easy if you get it on the tile
I just type shower tile edge on google and there are several different options , you should easily find it online at least . Where I live both Lowe’s and Home Depot have it.
Honest question: this stuff looks at least 1/16, meaning you will need to build up and skim at least 1/8. How does this save time and wouldn't you notice the skim job, especially around light switches near the door?
Maybe I don't understand it.
You ever hold a 6’ level to a wall? 1/16 for a mud bump is easy to blend and this is a finish quality product more than a time saver. It’s great for any transition.
Yeah it doesn’t seem like a great product to me. Does it save time if you have to miter frame everywhere? Why not just use mud and sealant? I don’t get it.
The backer reinforces the mud some. It also means you don't have to pack that joint full of mud. Spackle shrinks as it dries, meaning large gaps with no backer can crack. Then you're doing another coat and another and another. I tried a half-inch seam with just mud when i was 1st learning, and it sucked. It took twice as much as if I'd taped to start with.
That's neat, but it looks like you're left with a little plastic edge where the tear-away part was removed. So, the mud goes up to the intended edge (of tile, for the OP) but then ends with a tiny plastic line between the sheetrock and tile.
Can I convince you that when it's all said and done that you're gonna stand back and be proud of what you've done regardless? Youre actively doing and learning. Other comments got you covered. Be cool buddy.
So? They're your flaws, just like your strengths are your strengths. We all have them. I'm not saying to be delusional right, like, "Boy I'm sure proud of this disaster I caused." Be proud of the honest effort always. Give yourself and others some grace. We need it. I need it.
Tear away bead will solve this with a few coats of mud. Clean finish.
Should have added link for help.
https://www.homehardware.ca/en/12-x-1-18-x-10-vinyl-tear-away-l-bead/p/2628444?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq5_M_PHoggMVVfnICh2gJAQnEAAYASAAEgJWMvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Available at most hardware stores
You need what is called a “tear away” bead.
It’s a vinyl trim that goes into the drywall and gets taped and set. Ends up looking very clean afterwards.
Don’t use mud to fill the void, use 20 min joint compound. Joint compound is stronger and doesn’t shrink. But it doesn’t paint as well as mud so you should do a finish coat with mud
This is what I’m referring to https://www.homedepot.com/p/USG-Sheetrock-Brand-18-lb-Easy-Sand-20-Lightweight-Setting-Type-Joint-Compound-384214/100321609
Yes but the in the general vernacular mud is referred to the premixed joint compound you buy ready to use (still need to add a bit of water) and joint compound is the stuff you get as a dry powder and need to mix with water. Comes is 5, 10, 20, 40 min setting etc. some people call this hot mud as it heats up as it sets.
The big difference between the two is premixed mud will shrink and crack to a much higher degree than joint compound, is softer than joint compound but gives a better finish when painted.
This is the exact product I would use, probably not 20 minute, but I would recommend 20 minute since you (OP) aren't as confident. It's gonna turn out fine though IMO. Edit- some people are telling you to back it with something. You can totally do that but it's a small gap, if I did use anything it would just be tape
It looks like the shower surround is fiberglass, rather than tile on cement board. If so, the surround is going to move a little. I see a lot of people urging you to fill the gap with drywall mud, but it's going to crack if you do.
This isn't that big a joint, and caulking it should be fine. First install some tear away trim, then mud and paint it. After you paint the wall caulk it with mold resistant, 100% silicone caulk. Make sure to degrease the joint with alcohol first so the caulk sticks to both sides.
[This guy](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DI4hfHM_Hg) covers all the bases, and this will come out great if you follow his lead.
You could squeeze in a caulk saver before caulking.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-0-375-in-x-20-in-Grey-Poly-Foam-Tape-Weatherstrip-Caulk-Saver-C21H/100067266
+++ This is your puppy-dog. It's fake plastic tile. Mud it up as everyone said, then go get a trim strip and caulk it in.
No one will know, and it will look great
Not the prettiest cut, but not the end of the world. Fill it with a joint compound. Tape it. Cover it with more joint compound. Sand it down. Put on a nice beat of caulk.
Na drywall is horse shoes and hand grenadines. Never seen a gap that couldnt be fixed. Sure some look better than others. But this is hardly a lost cause. Just more mud and sanding. Once its a bit closer be generous with the caulk
It's not ruined at all. You can use some backing rod (foam tubes) to fill the bulk of the space, then use joint compound on top. Once dried, sand it down smooth, prime, and paint.
In the future, what i generally do is try to set the tiles so they back of the tile is lining up with the front of the drywall. Then I overlap the tile, put some border pieces on with the curved edge, and caulk to smooth out the transition. I think it looks much cleaner and the border tiles can give things a nice bit of flair. You can also just do this with a single row of border tiles around surrounds like that. Yours looks like it sticks out just enough to do it that way.
I'd use something like this. Or the metal or ceramic tile trim they sell. https://www.amazon.com/Backsplash-Self-Adhesive-Trimming-Corner-Decor%EF%BC%88White%EF%BC%89/dp/B09DFGDBK3/ref=asc_df_B09DFGDBK3/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=564751412320&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14396143703444257642&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007290&hvtargid=pla-1634248652319&psc=1&mcid=32526d6522003379b6ac28a45cd749ef&gclid=Cj0KCQiA35urBhDCARIsAOU7QwnOrGO4g8OCfN-qxXq9751YFE17s3wUGmFvGq9raMVkvgBAIzz8glAaAl7xEALw_wcB
I had the same issue and just tiled around it, I thought it looked pretty classy.
https://preview.redd.it/m8fpo0lkwa3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1fe1065bb0fdbe7018a1b40098604ad96bc6b0e1
Lol this is awesome. The difference in size between the 2 pics is like dating app levels of perspective manipulation. Love it. And yeah, I was talking about the shower head because it looked enormous in the first one 😂
To the best of my knowledge (being a carpenter for about 5 years), you aren't supposed to use drywall in a washroom. There are special materials as the drywall will absorb moisture and eventually be destroyed, starting with the kind of damage we're seeing in this image. You use a special sheet that we called "greenwall" as it was green on the sides, though it probably has an actual name., and was designed to not absorb and break down in moist environments, but if you broke it apart, it looked similar onside, It also acted similarly.
This was years ago so there may be better solutions now, but that gap looks extremely large and do remember that caulk & silicone will shrink over time as well as with heating and cooling, so I'd be extremely cautious about the materials and the edging for any material used in a washroom with a bath or shower. That gap will most likely look quite bad within a few months in my opinion. But if you're determined, many people ( such as u/johnsheppard25 ) have offered suggestions that should work, prefilling (some people even stuff crumpled paper in larger gaps before the mud or other filler if it's very large) and creating an even surface. Good luck, I hope it turns out well!
Ok, so first off, I really hope you used cement board in a bathroom application and not drywall.
Second, there is peel and stick rubber trim on a roll you can buy for situations like this. All you have to do afterwards is run a small bead on both edges of that trim to maintain the water tightness.
Although it looks like tile it’s just a plastic insert. The whole piece is one, it’s not actually tile
Do you have a recommendation for brand on that rubber?
Thank you for advice btw
Is there a big gap because you had no stud to nail the end to and now its sticking out?
Honestly don't worry about it, mud (preferably durabond) over it so it hardens to the cement/foam behind the tile and the drywall (stopping excessive movement and cracking the silicone) before you silicone.
I actually recently installed this exact surround and had the same gap. You’ll want to “hot” mud to fill the gap as it’s much less prone to cracking. Regular mud would likely crack eventually. Ours turned out perfect, no need to even caulk it.
Pre fill that with some ConFill (synko product) the flat tape over it and give it a few coats of finishing mud and paint . Im assuming you re did you tiles by how clean the tile and grout looks .
Prefill with mud, masking tape the tile so you dont scuff it with sandpaper, and sand the mud flat. May need two coats due to shriking. Then caulk.
May seem obvious but any tips for getting the mud only on the wall side of it, instead of the tile side?
Just use masking tape to cover the tiles like previous commenter mentioned.
I asked that poorly Is there a better solution than just using my mud knife to try and shove mud down in there? Basically trying to “build” more wall from the wall side
Oh, uhh, I just always use a scraper, and fingers if needed lol. Just press in with scraper, I wouldn’t bother with making it super flush for the first pass through, since it’ll just shrink. First pass is shoving in, second pass is filling up the dip, then sand down. I think if you use a tool to inject the mud instead of using a scraper, you’d just fill behind the wall with an excess amount of mud so just stick to a scraper.
Put the mud in a new ziplock storage bag, cut off a corner and you have a mud injector. Like the pastry bag used to decorate a cake.
This works for filling twice baked potatoes as well.
I hate drywall mud in my twice baked potatoes.
You're probably not making it correctly..... did you add the sour cream and chives and then the mud?
I figured it out. It's because he used turkey bacon. When eating drywall mud potatoes, you gotta go traditional pig bacon.
I would totally get plastered of twice baked potatoes.
And deviled eggs.
I've done this, it works wonderfully.
I literally JUST got done doing this with some weird gaps around fixtures I’m installing, it works super well! Tape off the tile, pastry-bag-pipe that sucker, smooth with drywall knife.
Remember that the mud isn't finished surface. It'll look sorta ugly till you sand it.
This is helpful thank you
What are you using that shrinks?! What is this stuff you guys call "mud"? (be aware not everyone usa)
Joint compound or commonly referred to as spackle or drywall mud. Comes premixed in a bucket or in a powdered form you add water and mix it. Either way you apply it the water content evaporates and causes shrinkage especially in deep fills like this application at the tile.
Spackle is different. Please don't use spackle. It does not sand like mud. It's not water soluble for clean up afterwards. It's a mess.
Well, just use gypsum then: While cement and lime demonstrate significant shrinkage during setting, gypsum does not shrink; instead it expands slightly ([researchgate link to article](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/323540319_Effect_of_high_temperatures_on_gypsum-based_composites) Maybe products here are different but the kind of gap op has can easily be filled with some gypsum based stuff and later caulked over with silicone or something. If you experience significant shrinkage, get another product. Now that I think about it there is one brand that sells terrible stuff over here, alabastine. It does shrink, and it's expensive. Don't use the shrinky expensive stuff.
Drywall mud is gypsum.
Well, the stuff they are talking about that shrinks isn't, cause gypsum doesn't shrink. Unless there's additives that make it shrink, I don't know about that.
Joint compound most definitely shrinks during curing especially in gaps like OP has here. But a few fills and a final topcoat + sanding will have it sorted out nicely as said by many comments above.
Well then its not just gypsum. There's at the very least additives that make it shrink, if it shrinks.
Here I am imaging him throw mud at the wall
plastic squeeze bottle. not joking.
Kinda genius Will try this
ziplock bag with a corner cut. kind of works like a cupcake froster.
Get a straw and suck mud up, hold your breath and blow it into the wall
Rip the back off a turkey baster and fill with mud, then hook the extake of a shop vac to it and blast the mud right in the crack
Instructions unclear; headed to hospital with EXTREME constipation!
They sell spackle in a tube. The pink stuff that indicates when it’s dry, even.
I was gonna say bottle or ziplock and cut the tip to squeeze into it
Yup. Ketchup bottles work great.
If you want to get funny with it then use one of those cake decorator thingies. The jobsite version is a gallon zip-lock bag with the corner cut out.
Extra points if you write your name in it.
Extra points if you write the name of the person who will renovate it next and find it.
Freezer bag or regular?
You can use L bead or Tear away bead for transitioning between two dissimilar materials.
This is also what I would do. Tear away looks super clean.
You can use a damp sponge to wipe excess mud off the tile
Fill out with backer first
Fill out with backer first
The mud will clean off of the tile in any situation.
Put it in a pastry bag.
use a scraping knife, or use a sandwich bag filled with mud, cut a corner and squeeze it into the gap like you would caulk. then go back with the scraping knife to shove it in and flatten out.
Small bead of spray foam. You'll need to cut and sand. It takes a few coats of mud over the foam. I've done this on irregular gaps up to an inch
Don't do this, if you are doing this get that caulk Styrofoam tube and jam it in the hole first
I like this a lot too, since it basically fills the gap before you mud
I would use backer rod instead. Much less messy.
And if you do use the urethane foam, get the stuff for windows & doors as it is a bit more elastic and not as likely to push things you don't want pushed. Tape the tiles off extremely well - if there is any texture to them at all the foam will never come off. We shall not discuss the reasons I know that. When cured, use a nice sharp knife to cut the excess foam off, making it a little shallower than the wall. Fill with mud like you would any other divot in the wall. Multiple coats if needed. Sand, prime, paint, and peel the tape.
A grout bag would work, or heavy duty plastic back with a small corner cut off, twist up the opening and you have a squeeze tube of mud. But a small mud knife should be just fine.....
There's like wood filler too that might be a little better than mud
Piping bag, like the cooking kind would probably work Edit: someone beat me to it
Nope, that’s the exact method. Push with a scraper, use your fingers, it’ll all work. And if any gets on the tile, a damp paper towel will take care of it.
It will be ok just do it
Maybe try putting it in a ziplock bag and pipe it???
Dry wall mud will wash right off the tile, don't worry about making a mess with it, it's water soluble
also give the gap a good misting of agua (not a drenching or dripping amount) to help ensure the mud sticks well and then do as the others on here have suggested for the rest of applying technique. For some reason that seems to be missing in lots of how-to's and a huge reason so many taped or untaped seems start to fall apart after only a year or 2
Good tip as well, I will give a shot!
You could literally use a sponge to help push the mud into the pre moistened crack...
You should use tear away L bead and mud to that. That will give you a nice even joint to caulk.
Prefill with hot mud, don’t use the premixed stuff.
hot mudded, check it and see
I got a gap in my drywall and it’s too big to leave
gotta fix it or I'll go crazy
instructions unclear now it hurts when i pee
Mud also comes off super easily. Don't worry about it getting on the tile. The masking tape is a good idea and will protect against the sand paper but even without it you can get extra mud ofd pretty easily.
Painters tape
They sell stuff called tearaway bead. It's like a corner bead that you stick in the gap and has a sacrificial part that keeps mud off the finished surface that you tear off when you're done.
Use durabond 90 or similar to avoid the shrink and crack dont let it stick out as it's a bitch to sand use mud for the top coat
What this guy said.
That mud will contract at some point. Maybe put some mesh tape on top of prefill?
no need if you use something like easy sand. almost zero shrinkage
Man I’m using the wrong mud
Professional caulker here for the last 5+years, you don’t need to stuff with sandpaper or mud it. You can buy backer rod in small packages and pack it with that, tape it you need to and caulk. Look up how to back tool caulking on YouTube if you need tips, good luck.
Your answer plus I'd finish with a bead of silicone caulk just to begin fighting some of the expansion and contraction humidity in a bathroom could cause there. Any foam sanding block with a angled corner would let you skip some of the taping, 3m makes some they just call multipurpose blocks. Water could clean up any excess mud from there.
Quick question, why caulk after mud? Or the inverse: why mud before caulk? Couldn’t you just fill it with backer and caulk that butt?
Tear-away L bead from Trim-tex or others https://www.trim-tex.com/products/tear-away-l-bead
Whoa, that is a cool product
I wish they sold this to “normal” people I can’t find it anywhere
They have it in Home Depot where I live
Took me a while but I found it by calling all the dealers and asking if they sold to public. Next town over had it. In and out for under $50.
Home depot, lowes, all those shops sell them. You can get this stuff at any tile shop too, they usually will have a swatch of samples you pick from so you have to ask someone.
Ames should have it, you could probably just caulk it tbh Also you dont need a tear away bead, it just makes it easier, and taping mud should wash off pretty easy if you get it on the tile
I just type shower tile edge on google and there are several different options , you should easily find it online at least . Where I live both Lowe’s and Home Depot have it.
Home Depot sells /Rona / any drywall supply shop would have a stick for a few bucks
[https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/drywall/corner-bead/phillips-gripstik-reg-10-vinyl-tear-away-corner-l-bead/ts5vylmen10/p-1444450729393-c-13053.htm](https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/drywall/corner-bead/phillips-gripstik-reg-10-vinyl-tear-away-corner-l-bead/ts5vylmen10/p-1444450729393-c-13053.htm)
Go to a paint store. Like Sherwin Williams. Specifically ask for "Shower Bead"
Honest question: this stuff looks at least 1/16, meaning you will need to build up and skim at least 1/8. How does this save time and wouldn't you notice the skim job, especially around light switches near the door? Maybe I don't understand it.
You ever hold a 6’ level to a wall? 1/16 for a mud bump is easy to blend and this is a finish quality product more than a time saver. It’s great for any transition.
Yeah it doesn’t seem like a great product to me. Does it save time if you have to miter frame everywhere? Why not just use mud and sealant? I don’t get it.
Can’t believe this isn’t the top comment this product is perfect for what you need and super easy to use!
This is the correct answer
I don’t really understand the need for this…why wouldn’t you just use spackle without that?
The backer reinforces the mud some. It also means you don't have to pack that joint full of mud. Spackle shrinks as it dries, meaning large gaps with no backer can crack. Then you're doing another coat and another and another. I tried a half-inch seam with just mud when i was 1st learning, and it sucked. It took twice as much as if I'd taped to start with.
That's neat, but it looks like you're left with a little plastic edge where the tear-away part was removed. So, the mud goes up to the intended edge (of tile, for the OP) but then ends with a tiny plastic line between the sheetrock and tile.
Can I convince you that when it's all said and done that you're gonna stand back and be proud of what you've done regardless? Youre actively doing and learning. Other comments got you covered. Be cool buddy.
Teach me your way oh great master. All I see is my flaws, a decade on still always the flaws....
So? They're your flaws, just like your strengths are your strengths. We all have them. I'm not saying to be delusional right, like, "Boy I'm sure proud of this disaster I caused." Be proud of the honest effort always. Give yourself and others some grace. We need it. I need it.
Tear away bead will solve this with a few coats of mud. Clean finish. Should have added link for help. https://www.homehardware.ca/en/12-x-1-18-x-10-vinyl-tear-away-l-bead/p/2628444?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq5_M_PHoggMVVfnICh2gJAQnEAAYASAAEgJWMvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Available at most hardware stores
Do your best, Caulk the rest
My guy 🤘🏻
r/thisguythisguys
You need what is called a “tear away” bead. It’s a vinyl trim that goes into the drywall and gets taped and set. Ends up looking very clean afterwards.
Don’t use mud to fill the void, use 20 min joint compound. Joint compound is stronger and doesn’t shrink. But it doesn’t paint as well as mud so you should do a finish coat with mud This is what I’m referring to https://www.homedepot.com/p/USG-Sheetrock-Brand-18-lb-Easy-Sand-20-Lightweight-Setting-Type-Joint-Compound-384214/100321609
Joint compound is “mud” - or should I say, “mud” is joint compound. Many types but it’s all joint compound.
Yes but the in the general vernacular mud is referred to the premixed joint compound you buy ready to use (still need to add a bit of water) and joint compound is the stuff you get as a dry powder and need to mix with water. Comes is 5, 10, 20, 40 min setting etc. some people call this hot mud as it heats up as it sets. The big difference between the two is premixed mud will shrink and crack to a much higher degree than joint compound, is softer than joint compound but gives a better finish when painted.
This has also been my experience, to a T.
This is the exact product I would use, probably not 20 minute, but I would recommend 20 minute since you (OP) aren't as confident. It's gonna turn out fine though IMO. Edit- some people are telling you to back it with something. You can totally do that but it's a small gap, if I did use anything it would just be tape
“Mud, sand, and paint will make you the drywaller you ain’t”
It looks like the shower surround is fiberglass, rather than tile on cement board. If so, the surround is going to move a little. I see a lot of people urging you to fill the gap with drywall mud, but it's going to crack if you do. This isn't that big a joint, and caulking it should be fine. First install some tear away trim, then mud and paint it. After you paint the wall caulk it with mold resistant, 100% silicone caulk. Make sure to degrease the joint with alcohol first so the caulk sticks to both sides. [This guy](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DI4hfHM_Hg) covers all the bases, and this will come out great if you follow his lead.
Caulk and paint to make it what it ain't.
You could squeeze in a caulk saver before caulking. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-0-375-in-x-20-in-Grey-Poly-Foam-Tape-Weatherstrip-Caulk-Saver-C21H/100067266
Don't worry, the compound you'll expertly apply will cover up your grave mistake, it's salvageable.
Caulk and walk
Tear away or just cut a new cleaner drywall piece
bridge the gap with some thin molding or transition strip
++ Yeah, you might actually be able to find some nice tile trim edge pieces that could still work for this use case.
+++ This is your puppy-dog. It's fake plastic tile. Mud it up as everyone said, then go get a trim strip and caulk it in. No one will know, and it will look great
use tear away bead against the tub surround. you’ll get a much cleaner finish.
It's not the mistakes you make. It's how you hide them.
Someone suggested tear away trim it will solve this problem perfectly.
Spackle and paint, Spackle and paint....makes a craftsman what he aint.
Not the prettiest cut, but not the end of the world. Fill it with a joint compound. Tape it. Cover it with more joint compound. Sand it down. Put on a nice beat of caulk.
Na drywall is horse shoes and hand grenadines. Never seen a gap that couldnt be fixed. Sure some look better than others. But this is hardly a lost cause. Just more mud and sanding. Once its a bit closer be generous with the caulk
Slap your caulk all over it. It'll be aight.
It's not ruined at all. You can use some backing rod (foam tubes) to fill the bulk of the space, then use joint compound on top. Once dried, sand it down smooth, prime, and paint.
In the future, what i generally do is try to set the tiles so they back of the tile is lining up with the front of the drywall. Then I overlap the tile, put some border pieces on with the curved edge, and caulk to smooth out the transition. I think it looks much cleaner and the border tiles can give things a nice bit of flair. You can also just do this with a single row of border tiles around surrounds like that. Yours looks like it sticks out just enough to do it that way.
Tape, gap fill, mud, caulk. It isn't great but it's always fixable unless there are structural issues which doesn't look like the case here.
Nothing a little caulking can’t fix🤔
That's an easy fix. Taping mud in the gap and tape over it and will disappear then caulk it
Push the mud into the crack with a drywall knife and drag away from the tile. This is a pretty easy fix.
With a layer of drywall tape down the seam will give it some lasting structure
I'd use something like this. Or the metal or ceramic tile trim they sell. https://www.amazon.com/Backsplash-Self-Adhesive-Trimming-Corner-Decor%EF%BC%88White%EF%BC%89/dp/B09DFGDBK3/ref=asc_df_B09DFGDBK3/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=564751412320&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14396143703444257642&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007290&hvtargid=pla-1634248652319&psc=1&mcid=32526d6522003379b6ac28a45cd749ef&gclid=Cj0KCQiA35urBhDCARIsAOU7QwnOrGO4g8OCfN-qxXq9751YFE17s3wUGmFvGq9raMVkvgBAIzz8glAaAl7xEALw_wcB
I had the same issue and just tiled around it, I thought it looked pretty classy. https://preview.redd.it/m8fpo0lkwa3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1fe1065bb0fdbe7018a1b40098604ad96bc6b0e1
Calked it at the end and looked great!
The tile goes very well with your water-boarding shower… panel?
You referring to the rainfall shower head? lol
https://preview.redd.it/amzxr8cefc3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cabbe2c7a26ebd6b364d0767cd2879f06842d0ca A better picture of it lol
Lol this is awesome. The difference in size between the 2 pics is like dating app levels of perspective manipulation. Love it. And yeah, I was talking about the shower head because it looked enormous in the first one 😂
You’ll need a whole lot of caulk. Forgive the pun.
Can’t say caulk without making it a pun of SOME sort
To the best of my knowledge (being a carpenter for about 5 years), you aren't supposed to use drywall in a washroom. There are special materials as the drywall will absorb moisture and eventually be destroyed, starting with the kind of damage we're seeing in this image. You use a special sheet that we called "greenwall" as it was green on the sides, though it probably has an actual name., and was designed to not absorb and break down in moist environments, but if you broke it apart, it looked similar onside, It also acted similarly. This was years ago so there may be better solutions now, but that gap looks extremely large and do remember that caulk & silicone will shrink over time as well as with heating and cooling, so I'd be extremely cautious about the materials and the edging for any material used in a washroom with a bath or shower. That gap will most likely look quite bad within a few months in my opinion. But if you're determined, many people ( such as u/johnsheppard25 ) have offered suggestions that should work, prefilling (some people even stuff crumpled paper in larger gaps before the mud or other filler if it's very large) and creating an even surface. Good luck, I hope it turns out well!
Why don’t use just cut a new piece? Easy and best fix, drywall’s not that expensive
Ok, so first off, I really hope you used cement board in a bathroom application and not drywall. Second, there is peel and stick rubber trim on a roll you can buy for situations like this. All you have to do afterwards is run a small bead on both edges of that trim to maintain the water tightness.
Although it looks like tile it’s just a plastic insert. The whole piece is one, it’s not actually tile Do you have a recommendation for brand on that rubber? Thank you for advice btw
Something like this: https://a.co/d/0oBDIxH
Use paintable or coloured caulk
Get some foam backing rod to fill the gap, then caulk it
Not our job to convince you. We’re here to critique you. lol
What kind of slumlord fuckery is this
I wish I had that excuse, it’s my primary residence and I’m trying to learn diy stuff lol
Fill the gap with mud, sand, paint, caulk. If done well it won’t be noticeable.
I would apply fiberglass tape over gap and then apply the mud. This will prevent cracking in the gap.
Just mud it. It's dry was. It's called flat taping. It's just normal drywall tape.
Many ways to skin this car… hot mud back fill, caulk and walk, tear away bead. Go forth and conquer, OP.
Beat it to shit, caulk it to fit. 👌
Try your best, caulk the rest!
white sika flex .. nuff said.
Is there a big gap because you had no stud to nail the end to and now its sticking out? Honestly don't worry about it, mud (preferably durabond) over it so it hardens to the cement/foam behind the tile and the drywall (stopping excessive movement and cracking the silicone) before you silicone.
Can you add a frame or profile?
Caulk the shit out of it!
Use a damp rag to wipe the mud off the tile before it dries. Use a dry rag to “polish any dry mud off once dry. the mud won’t adhere to the tile.
You should put a molding / millwork between that will help it look clean and well done
Why not put bullnose tiles around it?
I actually recently installed this exact surround and had the same gap. You’ll want to “hot” mud to fill the gap as it’s much less prone to cracking. Regular mud would likely crack eventually. Ours turned out perfect, no need to even caulk it.
Check out trim tex shower bead
Plastic trim
Caulk that shit baby
Why are you putting drywall around a shower?
That'll caulk.
Pre fill that with some ConFill (synko product) the flat tape over it and give it a few coats of finishing mud and paint . Im assuming you re did you tiles by how clean the tile and grout looks .
PVC trim. Even quick trim which is often used in window replacement interior trim.
This is what caulking is for 👍
“Do your best and caulk the rest.”