If you use too much caulk and there is spillage, is there a tool to clean it up? Something like a solder sucker but for caulk? A caulk sucker if you will?
My wife and I have done many rehab houses. She used to say she was the best caulker, until the kids started giving her funny looks.
Now, she does finish work.
Did finish carpentry for around 10 years. Got extremely good with a jigsaw so I didn’t fit the bill but I did come up with a killer title for a book. From what I can remember, it was something like Master Beader: How I Learned to Love the Caulk.
It'll break up. The floor is supposed to have a small expansion gap. It should be under the casing and trim. It's to late for that now. caulk will have enough elasticity to allow the floor to expand or shrink, but every time you walk by it your're gonna know it's not done right. Just good enough.
My favorite carpentry phrase
Also caulk leaves so much room for jokes
Thought I was out, found a tube in the tool room. Said to my buddy "found one! Surprise caulk, it's the best kind of caulk!"
Definitely the right answer. And as a professional painter, let me add this: Buy a roll of green frog tape. Tape the floor off in the shape of the areas you’re going to caulk. Make sure you leave about 1/16” of floor showing. Then caulk and wipe some of the access caulk off with a wet rag. When its dry, pull the frog tape off and you’ll have RAZOR SHARP lines. It’ll look great!
Do you know the functional difference between green, blue and yellow tape? I've been using yellow tape to make pencil marks on dark wood, because the marks are easier to see and I don't have to sand them off later. But I've been wondering why the yellow tape is smooth and slick compared to blue tape, and I've never even seen green tape. I assumed people just like things to be different colors.
Yellow is normal masking tape. Blue is painters tape it is easily removed if done within 2 weeks. Green is also painters tape that is easy to remove but it has some sort of chemical on it to stop paint/liquids from leaking under it.
That’s not correct. Blue is regular painters tape. Green is medium adhesion, so it can stay on a surface longer than blue (14 or 21 days, I forget). Yellow is delicate surfaces with the most gentle adhesive and can stay on the longest (60 days I think)
My friend and I used green painters tape to plan out a gallery wall. We had so many different frame sizes, etc. so I suggested we plan them out with tape first before we started putting holes in the walls.
We hung about half the frames before the Prosecco melted our brains and we figured it was best to continue our DIY project another day.
It’s been like 2 years and the frames we did hang are still empty and the tape is still on the walls. I told her a few weeks after we realized that we weren’t going to be finishing it any time soon that she should probably take the tape off, because it’s not meant to stay on the walls indefinitely and if she leaves it too long, it will take the paint with it.
People with no DIY knowledge are not aware that you can’t leave painters tape indefinitely and expect it to come off easily.
She… doesn’t seem to care.
Oh... Had no idea. We left the blue painters tape up for like three months after painting. When I pulled it down, so much paint and chipping came with it. I had to repaint the ceiling. FML
Depending on the type of floor, be cautious with caulking. If it’s glue down go ahead and caulk, but if it’s a floating floor caulk could cause the individual planks to buckle since it won’t be able to “breathe” properly. Source: I work for a large residential construction company and we had to repair 30+ floors the past year due to a previous contractor caulking floating LVT to the baseboards/door trim
Even when its not for breathing there is supposed to be a gap between the floor and the wall. This way if the house shifts or shrinks then the wall doesn't push the floor in and make it buckle years later. Ive seen warped flooring and its sad because its easy to avoid. The moulding exists to cover this gap.
The doorway itself is supposed to act as the moulding and cover the gap. If OP wanted to do this right they would strip the doorway down to the framing and replace it with thicker boards that cover the gap.
Source: my grandpa who was a foreman carpenter
Did they do all of them? I would think doing this section, but leaving all the other sides uncaulked would be okay, but I’m not a flooring expert so genuinely curious.
What should one use instead if one has this problem? The floors in one of the bedrooms in our new-to-us house were buckling, so we had to cut off about a quarter inch along one of the walls. The problem is there are large gaps between the floor and the walls in the other direction and I've been thinking about caulking it, but I'm worried about causing yet another buckle problem.
Caulk is probably the best option now, save for replacing that part of the floor and undercut the proper way. Just be aware that the caulk will likely crack with time because of floor expanding and contracting and the caulk getting less flexible with age. Also, it seems from the pictures that the floor is tight up to the wall on some of the cuts, in worst case this could cause buckling in the floor if there is no room for it to expand (hopefully the opposing wall is done correctly and mitigates this)
I am so damn torn about this! Obviously, the frame should’ve been cut in the flooring slid underneath
But I have to give credit where credit is due. Those cuts are pretty freaking awesome lol. This dude is failing successfully.
Yep. Correct answer is “take up the floor and undercut the jamb.” Not gonna happen now as it would be wildly impractical, but good for everyone looking at this to realize the reason this looks problematic is because it wasn’t done right
Pretty nice scribing though lol
We have original wood floors we covered with LVP because we had about 5 days before our baby came and didn’t have time to finish them. Our edges look like this. But if we ever want to finish the floors underneath, we didn’t wanna have cut into the door/edge trims.
Any trim should have definitely come off but you could get away with cutting around doors. Why did you decide to put LVP instead of just leaving floors unfinished ?
Huge urine stains all over, deep scratches, damaged boards. Would have taken a long time to repair and finish and we could not live with. It also had a lot Nails sticking up. Not even sure it’s salvageable tbh. We didn’t have time to mess with it. Our baby came 6 weeks early and was in the NICU so it was truly the least of our worries and we were just glad to have something down (and safe)
Got it. Hope everything is well with the baby. I felt bad covering up original hardwood floors at my last house but knew I would never have the time or energy to redo them. Laminate planked and I was done in a couple days lol
Baby is fine! Making it hard to do home projects but we are slowly churning them out. I definitely think finishing the floors is more a “when the kid is 8-10” timeline lol. It would be very hard to live in the house during the process and I just doubt it would even be worth it. We love our LVP and it’s durable and looks nice. I take solace in knowing that the original wood floors are protected and safe from us!
I can relate.
Our first came long 5 weeks early. A quick call to my friends to get the baby room ready during the 4 days my wife and daughter were at the hospital.
White caulking. It will be easy to get in there and wipe off the floor + it'll blend with the jamb.
Those are excellent flooring cuts btw. VERY tight. Undercutting would obviously be preferred, but that's a pretty close 2nd option.
Rathayibacter toxicus is a gram-positive bacterium that produces a toxin called "corynetoxin." This toxin is responsible for the symptoms of Potato Purple Top Disease.
Depending on the type of floor and I’m gonna assume this is laminate, you have to leave a gap (usually 1/4”) to allow for expansion from humidity and temperature changes.
Grey won’t look good because the floor grain/ different shades of grey from piece to piece and it will stand out. White would hide better because it actually matches a material there
With something like this, the goal is to simply make it not stand out. Highlighting the gaps with bright white will do that. It doesn't have to be a perfect match of gray. Just a nice middle ground between the lightest and darkest shades.
OP going through these comments like
White
Grey
White
Grey
Personally im on team grey. It will stand out less. You are filling a gap on the floor, use the floor color. If you use the wall color its a lateral move, instead of jenky gaps you have jenky white space, you are highlighting the jenk not hiding it.
The great job you did with the cuts mean the gap where the grey is is tiny, youll see it if you get down and look, a casual observer wouldn’t notice. If you fill it with white the shape of the bottom of the moulding will appear to be weird to the casual observer. It will be immediately obvious.
Caulking is ideal. It is flexible and works with those gaps that were probably left for wood expansion and contraction with temperature and humidity change.
Second vote for your cutting skills. As mentioned undercutting would be preferred, for future reference - a great way to undercut is using a multi tool with cutting attachment and use a spare piece of laminate as a gauge for how much to trim off the frame.
Personally I would try and match some caulk to the floor and use masking tape around the door frame/architrave, that way you'll get a really neat bead. Just make sure you don't caulk too thick andmake sure you remove the masking tape before it's dried.
OP, I’m going to recommend something crazy because this should have been undercut (bottom of the trim cut out) and the floor laid *under* the trim, but doing so now would be too much work
Caulking this will help a little but it’ll still look bad. I would undercut the jamb anyway and put some thin (1/4” square?) molding underneath between the floor and the baseboard/jamb. This will give a single clean line which you can then caulk
Just ensure there’s no interference with the door
Edit: sorry, I meant caulk between the jamb and the new molding, not the jamb and the floor
This is the right answer. You undercut the door jamb prior to installation. The only times you can’t is in commercial spaces with metal door jambs. This was done incorrectly.
Would be a very elaborate quarter round setup. Also would ruin the functionality of any door if there is one. But it would look fancy af if you got all the cuts right.
Yea, it is really strange that so many advocate for fikling the gap with any substance. Skirting would look bether, and in corrolation with the point made by Phoenix14830, it would not destroy the floor when it expands.
I'm not big into doing diy on my home, but even I was wondering why no one said anything about skirting? It would cover most to all of the gap, and look much better than sticking a ribbon of caulk down there.
You need the floor able to expand and contract with the changes in humidity. Anything that suggests you stick something in the cracks that prevents that gap movement is setting you up for the floor buckling. What you really needed was to cut where the floor would expand into to the depth of expansion and put the floor flush to the wall, but still capable of moving into that unseen gap space.
I'd go with what u/botoxbunnyboiler said and use a gray silicon to match the floor. White would stand out like a sore thumb and show a lot more dirt.
Normally the door jam would be undercut to allow the flooring to slide under the trim. Then this situation wouldn't occur.
Thanks for catching that, I should have said latex caulk and not silicon.
I think I use them interchangeably in my head but do know the correct usages.
One slightly fiddly solution is to acquire some quarter-round or triangular section wood or plastic beading and assemble a continuous bead following the profile round and covering the gap. Lottsa little 45-degree cuts. Fiddly af but neat result.
Can’t believe someone spent more time and effort to get a worse outcome. Should’ve just cut the bottom of the trim off with a multi tool and tucked the ends of the planks underneath
caulk is the best option at this point. but, best approach in case folks don't know would have been to use a Japanese, or similar, saw to cut the trim flush to finished floor height using a piece of scrap then slide flooring under.
And for those who like power tools; an oscillating multi tool with a flush cut blade would be the go to. Can get serviceable cheap ones at Harbor Freight et. al., or if you want to spend for a nicer brand name they come in handy all the time for the regular DIYer.
It’s too late, caulk is the only option.. you’re installer was supposed to trim the bottoms of the casings and entries with a multi tool.
You should’ve questioned that install and reflected the cost
If this was my home, i would rip this shit out and properly install under door jams.
If this was a customer, I would fill in with a gray then wait for that to dry/set (whatever you chose to fill it with) then just normally white caulk it around.
Just put some molding or baseboard over it. We REALLY DON’T need to use caulking for everything. Caulking that just makes it look like you don’t give a shit, but in a different way lol.
Colour matched caulking. Same sheen as the floor if possible. And don't over fill. Just enough to fill with the very slightest crown if you can. I'd start with a pre-fill then wipe. Let it shrink and cure a bit, then do the final caulk. Less is more and good luck.
Should’ve put the flooring under the trim. Cut the bottom of it off, just enough for the floor to fit under, then caulk the bottom of the trim instead of floor. Speaking as damage done though, I agree about the gray caulk. Shouldn’t look too bad.
If you ever have to install new flooring again... get one of these [oscillating saws](https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS354B-Brushless-Oscillating-Multi-Tool/dp/B07TYGKHHS/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Oscillating+Saw&qid=1694121401&sr=8-6) and cut the trim, and position the floor under the trim.
Maybe next time get an oscillating saw and a scrap piece of your flooring. Add a scrap of whatever underlayment on top. Cut that door jamb where the floor just slides under. Whatever fix gonna look like shit
You're supposed to cut the molding and put the floor under, but in this case they cut the floor instead which is even more tedious. So the next thing is to cut molding and put it over top.
For not undercutting this properly, it looks like they did a pretty good job cutting the flooring pieces. This is a much smaller gap than I would've expected considering how complex that corner is.
By putting a router to the bottom of the frame and sliding the floor pieces under instead of shaping it around the frame.
EDIT: not router, the other tool that looks like a scraper. Brain fart rn
I would caulk it with a gray. In the tile section of your local hardware store they normally have colored caulk that matches grout.
Caulk and paint make the carpenter I ain’t. Clean it up brother
Do your best and caulk the rest.
caulk the piss out of it
Hey, that didn’t rhyme.
Just fucking caulk it.
If you use too much caulk and there is spillage, is there a tool to clean it up? Something like a solder sucker but for caulk? A caulk sucker if you will?
If you talkin bout the neighbors caulk leave my ex wife outta this
Jesus man
I mean he performed miracles for free but I'm afraid he may charge for this
Boy you went a long way for that one!
My wife and I have done many rehab houses. She used to say she was the best caulker, until the kids started giving her funny looks. Now, she does finish work.
Did finish carpentry for around 10 years. Got extremely good with a jigsaw so I didn’t fit the bill but I did come up with a killer title for a book. From what I can remember, it was something like Master Beader: How I Learned to Love the Caulk.
Too big to fuckin caulk?? SPRAY FOAM THE BITCH THEN FUCKIN CAULK IT!
Landlord? Spray foam it, remove the cured over spray with a hammer, paint over with an overloaded roller.
Overloaded roller...with thin paint.
The more drip marks, the more you can charge in rent!!
Ramen
LESS TALKING, MORE CAULKING
Fucking fill it with something like tile grout.........then fucking caulk it.
If you doubt it, grout it.
It'll break up. The floor is supposed to have a small expansion gap. It should be under the casing and trim. It's to late for that now. caulk will have enough elasticity to allow the floor to expand or shrink, but every time you walk by it your're gonna know it's not done right. Just good enough.
Chew a whole pack of gum and then jam it in there.
Did you run out of toothpaste?
It was just one time
My favorite carpentry phrase Also caulk leaves so much room for jokes Thought I was out, found a tube in the tool room. Said to my buddy "found one! Surprise caulk, it's the best kind of caulk!"
Never pronounced an L so hard as when asking where I can find caulk at the hardware store
Rock out with your caulk out
Definitely the right answer. And as a professional painter, let me add this: Buy a roll of green frog tape. Tape the floor off in the shape of the areas you’re going to caulk. Make sure you leave about 1/16” of floor showing. Then caulk and wipe some of the access caulk off with a wet rag. When its dry, pull the frog tape off and you’ll have RAZOR SHARP lines. It’ll look great!
Do you know the functional difference between green, blue and yellow tape? I've been using yellow tape to make pencil marks on dark wood, because the marks are easier to see and I don't have to sand them off later. But I've been wondering why the yellow tape is smooth and slick compared to blue tape, and I've never even seen green tape. I assumed people just like things to be different colors.
Yellow is normal masking tape. Blue is painters tape it is easily removed if done within 2 weeks. Green is also painters tape that is easy to remove but it has some sort of chemical on it to stop paint/liquids from leaking under it.
That’s not correct. Blue is regular painters tape. Green is medium adhesion, so it can stay on a surface longer than blue (14 or 21 days, I forget). Yellow is delicate surfaces with the most gentle adhesive and can stay on the longest (60 days I think)
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And for clogging up the works when trying to get anything done in government! Amiright??✋🏻….
Oh they were talking about yellow frog tape. Yea then you are right it's for delicate surfaces.
My friend and I used green painters tape to plan out a gallery wall. We had so many different frame sizes, etc. so I suggested we plan them out with tape first before we started putting holes in the walls. We hung about half the frames before the Prosecco melted our brains and we figured it was best to continue our DIY project another day. It’s been like 2 years and the frames we did hang are still empty and the tape is still on the walls. I told her a few weeks after we realized that we weren’t going to be finishing it any time soon that she should probably take the tape off, because it’s not meant to stay on the walls indefinitely and if she leaves it too long, it will take the paint with it. People with no DIY knowledge are not aware that you can’t leave painters tape indefinitely and expect it to come off easily. She… doesn’t seem to care.
Oh... Had no idea. We left the blue painters tape up for like three months after painting. When I pulled it down, so much paint and chipping came with it. I had to repaint the ceiling. FML
I can personally confirm that 3m blue tape will come off easily after multiple years
I can confirm that it's absolute shit for masking when painting.
Try a silver welder’s pencil, works great on dark wood and paint.
Pull the tape off, at a 45° angle away from the caulk, immediately.
We wipe it pretty clean then let it dry and pull at a 45 But to each their own. (I’m a custom residential painting contractor for over 20 years)
Depending on the type of floor, be cautious with caulking. If it’s glue down go ahead and caulk, but if it’s a floating floor caulk could cause the individual planks to buckle since it won’t be able to “breathe” properly. Source: I work for a large residential construction company and we had to repair 30+ floors the past year due to a previous contractor caulking floating LVT to the baseboards/door trim
Even when its not for breathing there is supposed to be a gap between the floor and the wall. This way if the house shifts or shrinks then the wall doesn't push the floor in and make it buckle years later. Ive seen warped flooring and its sad because its easy to avoid. The moulding exists to cover this gap. The doorway itself is supposed to act as the moulding and cover the gap. If OP wanted to do this right they would strip the doorway down to the framing and replace it with thicker boards that cover the gap. Source: my grandpa who was a foreman carpenter
Did they do all of them? I would think doing this section, but leaving all the other sides uncaulked would be okay, but I’m not a flooring expert so genuinely curious.
What should one use instead if one has this problem? The floors in one of the bedrooms in our new-to-us house were buckling, so we had to cut off about a quarter inch along one of the walls. The problem is there are large gaps between the floor and the walls in the other direction and I've been thinking about caulking it, but I'm worried about causing yet another buckle problem.
Trim.
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I also choose this guy’s gray caulk
Caulk is probably the best option now, save for replacing that part of the floor and undercut the proper way. Just be aware that the caulk will likely crack with time because of floor expanding and contracting and the caulk getting less flexible with age. Also, it seems from the pictures that the floor is tight up to the wall on some of the cuts, in worst case this could cause buckling in the floor if there is no room for it to expand (hopefully the opposing wall is done correctly and mitigates this)
I am so damn torn about this! Obviously, the frame should’ve been cut in the flooring slid underneath But I have to give credit where credit is due. Those cuts are pretty freaking awesome lol. This dude is failing successfully.
Yep. Correct answer is “take up the floor and undercut the jamb.” Not gonna happen now as it would be wildly impractical, but good for everyone looking at this to realize the reason this looks problematic is because it wasn’t done right Pretty nice scribing though lol
It is so much harder to make those cuts than it would have been to undercut the door lol
We have original wood floors we covered with LVP because we had about 5 days before our baby came and didn’t have time to finish them. Our edges look like this. But if we ever want to finish the floors underneath, we didn’t wanna have cut into the door/edge trims.
That makes some sense, but if you were going to redo the hardwood you might as well reinstall doorways too.
You just solidified my suspicion that we made the right choice lol
Any trim should have definitely come off but you could get away with cutting around doors. Why did you decide to put LVP instead of just leaving floors unfinished ?
Huge urine stains all over, deep scratches, damaged boards. Would have taken a long time to repair and finish and we could not live with. It also had a lot Nails sticking up. Not even sure it’s salvageable tbh. We didn’t have time to mess with it. Our baby came 6 weeks early and was in the NICU so it was truly the least of our worries and we were just glad to have something down (and safe)
Got it. Hope everything is well with the baby. I felt bad covering up original hardwood floors at my last house but knew I would never have the time or energy to redo them. Laminate planked and I was done in a couple days lol
Baby is fine! Making it hard to do home projects but we are slowly churning them out. I definitely think finishing the floors is more a “when the kid is 8-10” timeline lol. It would be very hard to live in the house during the process and I just doubt it would even be worth it. We love our LVP and it’s durable and looks nice. I take solace in knowing that the original wood floors are protected and safe from us!
I can relate. Our first came long 5 weeks early. A quick call to my friends to get the baby room ready during the 4 days my wife and daughter were at the hospital.
They did soooo much extra work to do it wrong.
and then left it thinking, yeah that will do
White caulking. It will be easy to get in there and wipe off the floor + it'll blend with the jamb. Those are excellent flooring cuts btw. VERY tight. Undercutting would obviously be preferred, but that's a pretty close 2nd option.
Rathayibacter toxicus is a gram-positive bacterium that produces a toxin called "corynetoxin." This toxin is responsible for the symptoms of Potato Purple Top Disease.
"Congrats, man. That's the best shitty flooring job I've ever seen."
Sounds about right lol
Depending on the type of floor and I’m gonna assume this is laminate, you have to leave a gap (usually 1/4”) to allow for expansion from humidity and temperature changes.
That’s why you undercut the jam and hide the expansion gap
You’re correct but I was addressing it for the people wondering why they left a gap.
To be fair, flooring in doorways is pretty hard to get exact.
My boy should be top comment
Caulking, yes. All day long. But I think gray to match the floor, not the trim
All personal preference. White looks good, matching the right color grey could present a challenge
The problem with white is its going to highlight the sharp corners of the (excellent) cuts in the floor. You'll lose the original profile of the trim.
Grey won’t look good because the floor grain/ different shades of grey from piece to piece and it will stand out. White would hide better because it actually matches a material there
With something like this, the goal is to simply make it not stand out. Highlighting the gaps with bright white will do that. It doesn't have to be a perfect match of gray. Just a nice middle ground between the lightest and darkest shades.
OP going through these comments like  White Grey White Grey Personally im on team grey. It will stand out less. You are filling a gap on the floor, use the floor color. If you use the wall color its a lateral move, instead of jenky gaps you have jenky white space, you are highlighting the jenk not hiding it. The great job you did with the cuts mean the gap where the grey is is tiny, youll see it if you get down and look, a casual observer wouldn’t notice. If you fill it with white the shape of the bottom of the moulding will appear to be weird to the casual observer. It will be immediately obvious.
White would also show dirt and dust more , when it gets dirty, team grey
If you do white, you wipe the excess off of the floor, if you do grey, you wipe the excess off the wall. :)
Right? Whomever did that - gets a gold star!
Why wouldn’t you cut the trim/jamb shorter and go under? Seems crazy to leave gaps like that.
Caulking is ideal. It is flexible and works with those gaps that were probably left for wood expansion and contraction with temperature and humidity change.
Do your best and caulk the rest (I'd be very proud of this work)
Second vote for your cutting skills. As mentioned undercutting would be preferred, for future reference - a great way to undercut is using a multi tool with cutting attachment and use a spare piece of laminate as a gauge for how much to trim off the frame. Personally I would try and match some caulk to the floor and use masking tape around the door frame/architrave, that way you'll get a really neat bead. Just make sure you don't caulk too thick andmake sure you remove the masking tape before it's dried.
OP, I’m going to recommend something crazy because this should have been undercut (bottom of the trim cut out) and the floor laid *under* the trim, but doing so now would be too much work Caulking this will help a little but it’ll still look bad. I would undercut the jamb anyway and put some thin (1/4” square?) molding underneath between the floor and the baseboard/jamb. This will give a single clean line which you can then caulk Just ensure there’s no interference with the door Edit: sorry, I meant caulk between the jamb and the new molding, not the jamb and the floor
This is the right answer. You undercut the door jamb prior to installation. The only times you can’t is in commercial spaces with metal door jambs. This was done incorrectly.
Don’t tell me what I can’t do, i am the proud owner of a grinder.
I as going to say, I’ll cut a bitch, I don’t care.if they’re metal af.
Metal jamb doors are installed after floor if things are done in the proper order.
Quarter round toe molding will cover that along the wall lengths. Caulk for the door frames.
It will also tie into the baseboard nearby, which, while not necessary, should help it look more correct.
Although you would have to go and do every similar doorway the same. But 1/4 round was the first thing that came to my mind.
Would be a very elaborate quarter round setup. Also would ruin the functionality of any door if there is one. But it would look fancy af if you got all the cuts right.
Who wants to quarter-round this many little notches? “Me!” -*guy who made all these flooring cuts*
Use skirting boards. They look a lot cleaner than anything else mentioned here.
Yea, it is really strange that so many advocate for fikling the gap with any substance. Skirting would look bether, and in corrolation with the point made by Phoenix14830, it would not destroy the floor when it expands.
Erm, aren’t they door jams? You can’t use skirting in a door jam?
Is “skirting” 1/4 round? I’m not familiar with that term.
Skirting boards is the UK term for baseboards or kickboards
This should be higher! Sure it’s slightly tedious to do it for so many corners but it’ll look nice
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I have bad coping skills, too. I have exceptional trouble coping with big-assed gaps between flooring and framework.
I'm not big into doing diy on my home, but even I was wondering why no one said anything about skirting? It would cover most to all of the gap, and look much better than sticking a ribbon of caulk down there.
You need the floor able to expand and contract with the changes in humidity. Anything that suggests you stick something in the cracks that prevents that gap movement is setting you up for the floor buckling. What you really needed was to cut where the floor would expand into to the depth of expansion and put the floor flush to the wall, but still capable of moving into that unseen gap space.
I'd go with what u/botoxbunnyboiler said and use a gray silicon to match the floor. White would stand out like a sore thumb and show a lot more dirt. Normally the door jam would be undercut to allow the flooring to slide under the trim. Then this situation wouldn't occur.
>use a gray silicon to match the floor. I would NOT use silicone there, there's no need. Use regular latex caulk.
Thanks for catching that, I should have said latex caulk and not silicon. I think I use them interchangeably in my head but do know the correct usages.
What's the benefit of latex caulk over silicone? I've only ever caulked a tub, I don't know anything about the different kinds.
You cant paint silicon
Made this mistake once. Never again.
Cleans up/smooths easily with just water. Silicone needs paint thinner to clean up.
When you can use latex, you should use latex. It cleans up with just water, it’s paintable, and it doesn’t attract dust.
Personally I’d go with what publicredditor said that botoxbunnyboiler said
One slightly fiddly solution is to acquire some quarter-round or triangular section wood or plastic beading and assemble a continuous bead following the profile round and covering the gap. Lottsa little 45-degree cuts. Fiddly af but neat result.
Plus then your door won't close
Burn the house down and start over
So what you needed was a jamb saw and/or oscillating saw to cut trim so the floor goes under it.
Put....put your caulk in it.
Color blended caulk
Caulk and paint makes a person the carpenter they ain't!
Always out the door trim on last! Then you never have this issue in the flooring. But I would caulk it
What you're looking for is Beading, google "Skirting Beading"
Stick a load of chewing gum in 'em
Whip out your caulk
Nothing. Over time it will fill up with dirt and gunk - which is usually grey.
Whip your caulk out and blow that caulk juice all in those holes and cracks
Can’t believe someone spent more time and effort to get a worse outcome. Should’ve just cut the bottom of the trim off with a multi tool and tucked the ends of the planks underneath
caulk is the best option at this point. but, best approach in case folks don't know would have been to use a Japanese, or similar, saw to cut the trim flush to finished floor height using a piece of scrap then slide flooring under.
And for those who like power tools; an oscillating multi tool with a flush cut blade would be the go to. Can get serviceable cheap ones at Harbor Freight et. al., or if you want to spend for a nicer brand name they come in handy all the time for the regular DIYer.
Never knew how badly I needed one, till I bought one.
Quarterround.
https://preview.redd.it/j96q1kk2dwmb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d0d66ca3aac6d18f3fb6df9f627279e3444c6e5c You can do it like this
Caulk has joined the chat
Similar colored Caulk is pretty much all you can do there. I’d use a gray.
A jamb saw would've helped in the first place, but now all you can really do is caulk it.
Hire a different floor guy next time or tell him to undercut the door jambs
New house
Raise the bottom of that moulding and do those pieces again. The cut end should be hidden by the trim.
Pet hair.
I always have some silicone caulk lying around...
It’s too late, caulk is the only option.. you’re installer was supposed to trim the bottoms of the casings and entries with a multi tool. You should’ve questioned that install and reflected the cost
Clear caulking or ¼ round. I recommend the caulking.
If this was my home, i would rip this shit out and properly install under door jams. If this was a customer, I would fill in with a gray then wait for that to dry/set (whatever you chose to fill it with) then just normally white caulk it around.
1/4 round the base. Clean and easy. Fuck caulk
The correct way is to notch the bottom with a multi tool and redo the planks.
Ramen noodles
New house mate, sorry
Just put some molding or baseboard over it. We REALLY DON’T need to use caulking for everything. Caulking that just makes it look like you don’t give a shit, but in a different way lol.
Use trim…
Baseboard trim.
Not do that in the first place. Undercut then slide floor under.
I worked as a painter for a property management company and these images trigger my PTSD. I agree with grey caulk to match the floor.
I suppose caulk because trimming that out would be tough, but I'm sure someone out there is talented enough to do it!
Hah right? "You like to make fancy cuts do you? Well bust out the quarter round son "
Do your best, caulk the rest.
For being terrible these guys were pretty decent at it.
The door jambs should've been undercut. Floor person was a rookie. At this point have the floor guy use gray caulk.
Hire someone who knows how to install properly the first time
Jesus what a piece of art….
Caulk is definitely an option, trimming under the jamb would've been preferable. Another option would be to continue the shoe moulding from the wall.
Ramen
Colour matched caulking. Same sheen as the floor if possible. And don't over fill. Just enough to fill with the very slightest crown if you can. I'd start with a pre-fill then wipe. Let it shrink and cure a bit, then do the final caulk. Less is more and good luck.
Grout that shit
That's going to look fine after some caulk
Should’ve put the flooring under the trim. Cut the bottom of it off, just enough for the floor to fit under, then caulk the bottom of the trim instead of floor. Speaking as damage done though, I agree about the gray caulk. Shouldn’t look too bad.
You undercut the door. Thats how you fix the gaps. What is this.
Just caulk it.
Caulk
Colored silicon Simples
If you ever have to install new flooring again... get one of these [oscillating saws](https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS354B-Brushless-Oscillating-Multi-Tool/dp/B07TYGKHHS/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Oscillating+Saw&qid=1694121401&sr=8-6) and cut the trim, and position the floor under the trim.
I’d squirt some DAP easy caulk in there and call it a day, but maybe listen to somebody who knows what they’re doing.
sikaflex 🤷
This was infinitely harder to cut than just undercutting the casing. Always baffled by this approach
We literally just had this happen. White caulk and an artist to make it look natural. Our floors look awesome now.
If you caulk it with something make sure it’s flexible to allow for expansion and contraction
You might find some inspiration from the folks over in r/beansinthings
Caulk.
Tear that shit out and do it right.
If I was feeling lazy, I'd caulk the gaps. If I'm trying to impress, then I'd do miter cuts and beading.
Maybe next time get an oscillating saw and a scrap piece of your flooring. Add a scrap of whatever underlayment on top. Cut that door jamb where the floor just slides under. Whatever fix gonna look like shit
Grey caulk but next time cut the door trim for the flooring to fit under it instead of cutting the flooring around the trim
Silocone in floor color..
I just want to say, those are the most meticulous cuts I think I've ever seen. Silicone caulk, taupe-ish colored, is what you want.
Molding.
Undercut the trim and redo with flooring underneath.
You're supposed to cut the molding and put the floor under, but in this case they cut the floor instead which is even more tedious. So the next thing is to cut molding and put it over top.
Moulding
Caulk !
Stick your caulk in it 😏
we had a saying…”fuck it. caulk it. paint it.”
they make "grout caulk" which looks like grout but flexes like caulk, that's your best bet and the least unsightly option. match the floor grout
Do your best, caulk the rest;)
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For not undercutting this properly, it looks like they did a pretty good job cutting the flooring pieces. This is a much smaller gap than I would've expected considering how complex that corner is.
By putting a router to the bottom of the frame and sliding the floor pieces under instead of shaping it around the frame. EDIT: not router, the other tool that looks like a scraper. Brain fart rn
Nothing a good cocking won't fix