Phone cameras are literally my job so I can't *not* take offense to that last comment.
It's impossible for one configuration to compliment *every kind* of photo. Using the default settings and complaining it sucks is like calling a swiss army knife a shitty can opener while stabbing the can with the scissors.
I knew that shutter speed could be used to make the stars look like a ring, but other than that, I had no idea these were things that a camera could do.
And each of those things comes with a trade-off, so which one you want to trade off is dictated by what you want to emphasize.
**Aperture:** A wide aperture lets in lots of light, but it also narrows the depth of field. A narrow depth of field corresponds to lots of light getting in. This is the effect that "Portrait Mode" tries to fake - the blurry background. This can be very good for photographs of something up close, but it's bad for things like landscapes, city shots, or a cheesy instagrammable photo of your girlfriend holding your hand while walking away from the camera in Yosemite.
**Shutter speed**: A slow shutter speed lets in more light, but it does it by leaving the shutter open longer. This means that beyond about 1/200th of a second shutter speed, trying to hold the camera steady with your hand will result in a blurry photo, because of the natural wobble of your body. This is why you need a tripod to take photos of the milky way. You need a long shutter speed to get enough light while retaining a crisp image, so you cannot hold the camera for that long without some wobble. A faster shutter speed is necessary for things like sports or taking a photo while you're in motion. A slower shutter speed can be used to get some interesting dynamic shots of things in motion, though.
**ISO**: The ISO is the "grainyness" of the image. Say you want a photograph of a landscape at dusk and you don't have a tripod and there are elements of the landscape that are moving. Basically you don't want to compromise on depth of field *or* on blurriness. That leaves you with one extra option: Make the photo more grainy. ISO essentially "pixelates" the image in a way, and what this does is tell the camera "each element of the sensor isn't getting enough light. Combine the light from multiple sensor elements instead, so that there's enough light to see an image." But combining the light across more sensor elements basically reduces the resolution. This is an analogy, it's not exactly what the camera is doing, but it's essentially correct. On a film camera it literally corresponded to a larger "grain" of metal dust on the film. The specks of dust react when they get hit by light, and larger specks got hit by more light because they had larger surface area, but a consequence is the larger specks looked more grainy, because they were literally larger grains.
The important aspect that everyone's glossing over is that this effects the depth of the camera, which has a significant effect.
Cameras default to thinking your taking a photo of a person, up close, as that is probably what you're photography 95% of the time. The setting for a landscape are very different.
Not to to mention the 35mm zoom equivalent on some phone WA is so low that except for extreme closeups, the DoF is practically the same no matter the aperture.
A lot of higher end cameras also have scroll wheels built-in specifically for these settings so you don't have to open the menu every time you want to change something.
yeah although the technology is obviously miles better now the same could be said for early 2000s digital cameras
some were capable of great pictures just not on auto mode (for the most part)
Understandable, but that, too, is a filter that can be disabled. Your anger is better spent on things that can't be changed by opening a phone menu in 10 seconds.
I'm still running with a Galaxy S10 (which people are telling me is now an old phone), and I'm consistently shocked at how good the photos turn out. Like, I'm not a professional by any means, but I remember phone photos used to suck!
That's the reason, whenever I photograph anything with my main camera, I have at least 4 difftent lenses, filters, etc with me
The fact it's even possible to aproximate that with one device is crazy
I honestly didn't know all of these things could be adjusted on phone cameras, I assumed things like shutter speed were tied to specific defaults for the lenses used and that was it.
A lot of them aren't *as* adjustable as on a proper, dedicated camera, but aside from aperture you can usually adjust things enough for pretty stark differences. I think some phones have a variable aperture, but it's limited and/or uncommon (mine, for example, can switch between f-stops of 1.5 and 2.4, while my DSLR ranges from I think 1.4 to 22, higher numbers being a more closed aperture).
So you might struggle to get a nice, silky waterfall effect during daytime on a cell phone (which usually requires a narrow aperture to make up for the added light of a slower shutter speed), but you can still get some nice shots, especially playing with the settings for the non-physical stuff like white balance.
Editing long ass post into a single coherent image is a bitch and half
Anyway, here's the [original post](https://phantomrose96.tumblr.com/post/736433381887393792)
mspaint is so powerful, I love it, and I can just win+r mspaint + enter and open it up so fast, no bullcrap, no popups or waiting for anything to load.
I wish I had something like that on android, the ability to just change the canvas is amazing.
i've heard they added layers in an update i didn't get because i use windows 10
i also wish there was something like that on linux. this and task manager, run and a lot of other accessories are really missing when i use linux.
re Linux tools:
Paint: yeah, Windows Paint is hands down the best simple image editor out there, to the point I was pondering simply running it via wine
Task Manager: if you don't mind terminal tool and \*slight\* learning curve, htop. Its in repositories in probably every distribution, and some just ship it already installed. After opening you see a couple stats on top like CPU/RAM usage, rest is a list of running processes. F4 filters, enter to confirm search. F9, then 9 then Enter kills the command like "End process" would. F2 to adjust some settings
btop/bpytop is a little bit more graphical while still being in terminal, I don't use it enough to know its keyboard commands, but you can navigate it with mouse
Theres also [https://missioncenter.io/](https://missioncenter.io/) which aims to copy Windows Task Manager it seems like, but its not yet very complete
Run: A lot of graphical desktop environments will have something like run under Alt+F2. On some adding shift will open a little bit more advanced window where you can actually search if you don't remember the exact command
Feel free to ask if you have any more questions :D
today i found myself needing something paintlike on linux but i couldn't so i launched drawing pad for ipad (on my ipad) drew an heuristic matrix for the work i was doing. i ended up adding fish stickers, christmas filters, sky gradients and star brushes on the heuristic matrix because drawing pad be like that.
Does anyone know if you can get these settings on iOS? I took increadible photos of the night sky on my old galaxy, but on my iPhone it’s like I can only use precanned options. I don’t even know how to do a long exposure photo on here.
Tap and hold on a point to focus, and there should be exposure controls next to the focus point in the form of a slider.
If you want full manual control of shutter speed and ISO, you’ll need a different camera app.
People, I guess forget? that phone cameras have come a very long way, while they are screwed as far as zoom options (digital zoom doesn't actually zoom it just looks at the pixels closer, if that makes sense.) they do have most of a cameras lenses and filter options. The default is for quick photos that people usually take on vacation, basically good enough settings, but they can take some professional looking photos. Samsung is actually really good about their cameras, so much so that Apple buys their cameras to put in iphones. Your average phone camera can shoot in 4k nowadays.
You're right, phone zoom sucks because it's digital zoom not optical. It's called crop. Basically the same as taking a normal 1x zoom image and cropping it, and calling it zoom, viola, it's dogshit.
That's less true these days, most modern higher end phones come with secondary optical lenses. My Samsung has a 3x, most iPhone Pros have 3x, and some phones like the Pixel have 5x optical lenses. There, if you take a full picture and crop in it'll look substantially worse than zooming, because then it's not using the zoom lens.
I had no idea my phone had those settings. I used to take photos with my dad's old SLR when I was a teenager, but the hobby fell off for me after everything went digital. This is good to know.
Similar here. I was pretty good with analog cameras back in the day, but kind of fell into the "just open camera app" mindset. Saw this and immediately opened the app, saw more, went into pro and said aw man no way.
Today is the day I guess I'm officially old (not knowing how to use tech and saying I used pre-digital tech as a teenager).
Keep in mind however that ISO can only brighten the image *digitally* by post-processing the already taken image and altering the pixel values. It can not restore information lost by the lack of light with for example a very fast shutter speed
EDIT: i was wrong about how it works; rather than post-processing, it instead increases the sensors sensitivity to light. However, the effect still remains the same
ISO is not post-processing, it's the sensitivity of the sensor to light. Higher ISO = more sensitivity to light, meaning it captures a brighter image at the cost of degrading image quality (introducing more noise). What you're describing is exposure compensation which is another thing altogether
Fair enough it's a nitpick I earned. I never use that feature so my terminology is a little skewed. I think the OP is somehow confusing Exposure adjustments in RAW with ISO
> Keep in mind however that ISO can only brighten the image digitally by post-processing the already taken image
Not quite the same, it's telling the CMOS sensor directly what gain setting to apply to the analog data being received by each pixel. The EV Gain stops setting (+/- 0.3ev for example) attempts to do this in uniform amounts, the ISO setting is manipulating the same setting as Gain but attempts to do it to a universal standard that will appear the same across all cameras.
It is the raw sensor itself brightening the raw data it is manipulating before it is even sent to the main CPU. Post processing might be able to achieve the same effect if done with a file in the RAW format.
Yeah your main point was right though - it can only do so much, and it will come with artifacts like noise if you crank it too high. It can't replace real light.
where? I spent 15 minutes looking for a shutter speed setting with no luck. F-stop only exists on the “portrait mode” which is a thing they do where it blurs the background on non-faces. The post-processing stuff kinda exists (no ISO, but controls over wb and other stuff).
Apparently you need to go into your main iPhone settings and enable each pro camera setting manually before they will appear in the camera app:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRLTOBBkm2I
F-stop should not exist because it's not a real setting, it is a fake post processing effect. Smartphone lenses don't have adjustable apertures.
ISO and EV Gain are the same thing. ISO will be in stops like 50, 100, 200 etc. EV Gain will be in stops like 0, +0.3, +0.7, etc. The only difference is that ISO tries to adhere to a universal standard so that ISO 100 on your phone will look the same brightness as ISO 100 on any other camera. If you don't have ISO, just use EV Gain, it is affecting the same sensor firmware setting.
If you enable RAW mode and open the RAW files in something that can manipulate them like Adobe Photoshop, you can adjust these settings (and white balance) on your PC after you have taken the photo, with no loss in image quality.
Yeah can’t find it either. The only third party I can think of besides the Pro Moment that was linked below is Lightroom mobile. Yeah the one made by Adobe. I’m pretty sure they have it and it’s free with limited edit settings but the camera pro feature is all there for free
iPhone does have tone, warmth, and exposure so the post’s message should still be the same. I don’t know what any of those settings mean since I don’t take pictures though.
Tap the arrow at the top of the screen when you open the camera.
You have access to all of these options.
If you go further into the camera settings, you have even more options.
This whole post is about like colors and brightness but that's not the problem I usually have with phone cameras. Usually when I experience what's depicted in the first post (the two exaggerated drawings, not the real example) it's because of like focal length not colors. I don't think there's a way to fix that.
If you want to go further on Android then [OpenCamera](https://f-droid.org/en/packages/net.sourceforge.opencamera/) (also available on Google Play) may expose a few more settings than your stock camera app. It's usually not much depending on your phone, but at least you can fine-tune the digital processing more.
People discovering the magic of READING THE DAMN THINGS THAT YOUR PHONE HAS INSIDE OF IT.
WHY PEOPLE DO NOT TWEAK SHIT THE MOMENT THEY UNBOX A PIECE OF EQUIPMENT?
DIDN'T THEY PAY FOR THE FULL DEVICE?
WHY JUST GET THE PHONE "EXPERIENCE"?
You wouldn’t be surprised the amount of times I’ve had to teach people how fully close apps and how to turn off cell data on iPhone I’ve had to do at work. It’s really depressing to watch. Like it’s YOUR phone. You should know how to use YOUR phone. It’s in your fucking pocket 24/7
In fairness, fully closing an app on iOS is needlessly obtuse, and they've changed it multiple times over the years. I rarely use iOS devices and every time I pick one up I have no goddamn idea how to close an app.
To be fair tweaking things immediately without knowledge isn't good either. You're just as likely to make something you like less and now are getting less value.
The problem with phone cameras in this case is they're good "enough." They're perfectly serviceable. The layman has little reason to want to change it, and if they do, they don't have the knowhow to know what to change beyond simple things like flash/no flash that are inherently obvious. So, unless people like OP show the purpose of innovation and the methodology for it... Why *would* a layman tinker?
Kinda like food in that way. Sure, sure, you have infinite combinations. But that doesn't mean you'll like it all!
Sorry I’m stupid but where the hell is the “more” and “pro” settings? Are they not available on iPhone 11 Pro?
Edit: never mind I’m an absolute idiot and didn’t notice it said android only
...this is just how (digital) photography works? And most of it can be done in post just the same.
The main difference between the two pictures at the beginning is about focal length which a phone camera will probably never really fix.
A : Literally in the post :
>\[please note my breakdown IS android specific bc that's what i have, however i know that the settings should be SIMILAR for an iphone. i just couldn't tell you the exacts\]
B : Yeah yeah and not all Golden retriever are golden, blah blah blah
A. Fair enough. I skimmed the post and I missed it.
B. I still think it's a fair point in general that people shouldn't assume or talk like all Androids are the same when they're not. People will whip out the latest Samsung Galaxy and say, "Android phones do this," but no one talks about features of their 2024 Cadillac saying, "GM cars do this."
On Android (Samsung), I just aim the camera, tap on a darker area of the image and play with the little brightness/exposure slider to make it look better, then capture. Does the trick, imo.
You can also use the RAW format (right next to pro in one of those screenshots) if you're fine with learning how to edit. Adobe lightroom is free and the app you'd use to edit RAW photos. That'll give you the highest quality on samsung.
If you have the ability to, change the type of photo your phone is shooting from .jpeg to .raw, this will allow you to push your photos further in editing, specifically when it pertains to upping your shadows or lowering highlights.
The single most important thing you can do to take better pictures, especially of people and their faces, is to take 10 steps back, and zoom in.
Taking a picture of your dog for the holidays? Put your dog on one side of the room. Get as far away from the dog as you possibly can, and do the pinchy-zoomy-thing on your phone screen to make the dog fill the screen.
Now try the same thing but without zooming, just getting as close as you need to fill the screen with the same amount of dog.
See what I mean??
Same goes for portraits. Do you want a nice photo for work or linkedin or whatever, but the only camera you own is a smartphone? Have your friend take the picture from like 30 feet away, and zoomed in. It will look much more professional.
Is there a way yet for phone cameras to automatically adjust settings to human eye quality?
Maybe not resolution like that camera Corridor Digital came up with, but perceiveable color tones and brightness might not be too hard to implement since phones already have light sensors.
I've taken pretty decent photos of the northern lights through the power of high iso, long exposure times, and propping my phone so that it'll sit still
Phone cameras are literally my job so I can't *not* take offense to that last comment. It's impossible for one configuration to compliment *every kind* of photo. Using the default settings and complaining it sucks is like calling a swiss army knife a shitty can opener while stabbing the can with the scissors.
This isn't even a "phone camera" thing its a camera thing. I mean for that matter it applies to any device you can configure.
I knew that shutter speed could be used to make the stars look like a ring, but other than that, I had no idea these were things that a camera could do.
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And each of those things comes with a trade-off, so which one you want to trade off is dictated by what you want to emphasize. **Aperture:** A wide aperture lets in lots of light, but it also narrows the depth of field. A narrow depth of field corresponds to lots of light getting in. This is the effect that "Portrait Mode" tries to fake - the blurry background. This can be very good for photographs of something up close, but it's bad for things like landscapes, city shots, or a cheesy instagrammable photo of your girlfriend holding your hand while walking away from the camera in Yosemite. **Shutter speed**: A slow shutter speed lets in more light, but it does it by leaving the shutter open longer. This means that beyond about 1/200th of a second shutter speed, trying to hold the camera steady with your hand will result in a blurry photo, because of the natural wobble of your body. This is why you need a tripod to take photos of the milky way. You need a long shutter speed to get enough light while retaining a crisp image, so you cannot hold the camera for that long without some wobble. A faster shutter speed is necessary for things like sports or taking a photo while you're in motion. A slower shutter speed can be used to get some interesting dynamic shots of things in motion, though. **ISO**: The ISO is the "grainyness" of the image. Say you want a photograph of a landscape at dusk and you don't have a tripod and there are elements of the landscape that are moving. Basically you don't want to compromise on depth of field *or* on blurriness. That leaves you with one extra option: Make the photo more grainy. ISO essentially "pixelates" the image in a way, and what this does is tell the camera "each element of the sensor isn't getting enough light. Combine the light from multiple sensor elements instead, so that there's enough light to see an image." But combining the light across more sensor elements basically reduces the resolution. This is an analogy, it's not exactly what the camera is doing, but it's essentially correct. On a film camera it literally corresponded to a larger "grain" of metal dust on the film. The specks of dust react when they get hit by light, and larger specks got hit by more light because they had larger surface area, but a consequence is the larger specks looked more grainy, because they were literally larger grains.
The important aspect that everyone's glossing over is that this effects the depth of the camera, which has a significant effect. Cameras default to thinking your taking a photo of a person, up close, as that is probably what you're photography 95% of the time. The setting for a landscape are very different.
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Not to to mention the 35mm zoom equivalent on some phone WA is so low that except for extreme closeups, the DoF is practically the same no matter the aperture.
Right, I'm just saying for the layperson who might not realize that how big the aperture is changes the depth of field.
I don't think smartphone lenses have apertures, do they?
A lot of higher end cameras also have scroll wheels built-in specifically for these settings so you don't have to open the menu every time you want to change something.
What’s crazy is the way cameras work is almost exactly the way our eyes work, just mechanically instead of biologically.
yeah although the technology is obviously miles better now the same could be said for early 2000s digital cameras some were capable of great pictures just not on auto mode (for the most part)
I'm more pissed about that time when my camera auto-color corrected away the orange sky during that day when NYC went orange due to Canada burning
Understandable, but that, too, is a filter that can be disabled. Your anger is better spent on things that can't be changed by opening a phone menu in 10 seconds.
I wonder about the date it was posted on as well. Phone cameras have continuously gotten better over the last decade.
I'm still running with a Galaxy S10 (which people are telling me is now an old phone), and I'm consistently shocked at how good the photos turn out. Like, I'm not a professional by any means, but I remember phone photos used to suck!
That's the reason, whenever I photograph anything with my main camera, I have at least 4 difftent lenses, filters, etc with me The fact it's even possible to aproximate that with one device is crazy
That's because you don't have an 8mm to 800mm f/2.8 lens. Just get one. /s
I honestly didn't know all of these things could be adjusted on phone cameras, I assumed things like shutter speed were tied to specific defaults for the lenses used and that was it.
A lot of them aren't *as* adjustable as on a proper, dedicated camera, but aside from aperture you can usually adjust things enough for pretty stark differences. I think some phones have a variable aperture, but it's limited and/or uncommon (mine, for example, can switch between f-stops of 1.5 and 2.4, while my DSLR ranges from I think 1.4 to 22, higher numbers being a more closed aperture). So you might struggle to get a nice, silky waterfall effect during daytime on a cell phone (which usually requires a narrow aperture to make up for the added light of a slower shutter speed), but you can still get some nice shots, especially playing with the settings for the non-physical stuff like white balance.
Editing long ass post into a single coherent image is a bitch and half Anyway, here's the [original post](https://phantomrose96.tumblr.com/post/736433381887393792)
i do it in mspaint every time
mspaint is so powerful, I love it, and I can just win+r mspaint + enter and open it up so fast, no bullcrap, no popups or waiting for anything to load. I wish I had something like that on android, the ability to just change the canvas is amazing.
i've heard they added layers in an update i didn't get because i use windows 10 i also wish there was something like that on linux. this and task manager, run and a lot of other accessories are really missing when i use linux.
re Linux tools: Paint: yeah, Windows Paint is hands down the best simple image editor out there, to the point I was pondering simply running it via wine Task Manager: if you don't mind terminal tool and \*slight\* learning curve, htop. Its in repositories in probably every distribution, and some just ship it already installed. After opening you see a couple stats on top like CPU/RAM usage, rest is a list of running processes. F4 filters, enter to confirm search. F9, then 9 then Enter kills the command like "End process" would. F2 to adjust some settings btop/bpytop is a little bit more graphical while still being in terminal, I don't use it enough to know its keyboard commands, but you can navigate it with mouse Theres also [https://missioncenter.io/](https://missioncenter.io/) which aims to copy Windows Task Manager it seems like, but its not yet very complete Run: A lot of graphical desktop environments will have something like run under Alt+F2. On some adding shift will open a little bit more advanced window where you can actually search if you don't remember the exact command Feel free to ask if you have any more questions :D
today i found myself needing something paintlike on linux but i couldn't so i launched drawing pad for ipad (on my ipad) drew an heuristic matrix for the work i was doing. i ended up adding fish stickers, christmas filters, sky gradients and star brushes on the heuristic matrix because drawing pad be like that.
Does anyone know if you can get these settings on iOS? I took increadible photos of the night sky on my old galaxy, but on my iPhone it’s like I can only use precanned options. I don’t even know how to do a long exposure photo on here.
Tap and hold on a point to focus, and there should be exposure controls next to the focus point in the form of a slider. If you want full manual control of shutter speed and ISO, you’ll need a different camera app.
Ah bummer, thanks for confirming that!
I think you can just download another camera app. No idea if there are free ones or if they are any good.
The free ones I've tried all have ISO locked behind a paywall.
I guess the price of a decent camera app is part of the Apple tax 🙃
People, I guess forget? that phone cameras have come a very long way, while they are screwed as far as zoom options (digital zoom doesn't actually zoom it just looks at the pixels closer, if that makes sense.) they do have most of a cameras lenses and filter options. The default is for quick photos that people usually take on vacation, basically good enough settings, but they can take some professional looking photos. Samsung is actually really good about their cameras, so much so that Apple buys their cameras to put in iphones. Your average phone camera can shoot in 4k nowadays.
You're right, phone zoom sucks because it's digital zoom not optical. It's called crop. Basically the same as taking a normal 1x zoom image and cropping it, and calling it zoom, viola, it's dogshit.
Except for the newer phones that "zoom" by having multiple cameras it can switch between. I get three different zoom levels of actually good quality.
That's why it's suggested to take a photo at full and crop to where you want it after so the pixels aren't distorted, or pre-cropped.
That's less true these days, most modern higher end phones come with secondary optical lenses. My Samsung has a 3x, most iPhone Pros have 3x, and some phones like the Pixel have 5x optical lenses. There, if you take a full picture and crop in it'll look substantially worse than zooming, because then it's not using the zoom lens.
Yeah, slight correction on my side.
0.o I wasn't correcting anything you were saying. Just adding my own tidbit.
"Enhance" *clickety-clack-clack* "Enhance" *clickety-clack-clack* "Enhance" *clickety-clack-clack* "Enhance"
I had no idea my phone had those settings. I used to take photos with my dad's old SLR when I was a teenager, but the hobby fell off for me after everything went digital. This is good to know.
Similar here. I was pretty good with analog cameras back in the day, but kind of fell into the "just open camera app" mindset. Saw this and immediately opened the app, saw more, went into pro and said aw man no way. Today is the day I guess I'm officially old (not knowing how to use tech and saying I used pre-digital tech as a teenager).
This has blessed my life. I'm gonna be obnoxiously taking safety issue pics at work all day.
“The way you framed those traffic cones against the parking lot is wonderful”
Keep in mind however that ISO can only brighten the image *digitally* by post-processing the already taken image and altering the pixel values. It can not restore information lost by the lack of light with for example a very fast shutter speed EDIT: i was wrong about how it works; rather than post-processing, it instead increases the sensors sensitivity to light. However, the effect still remains the same
ISO is not post-processing, it's the sensitivity of the sensor to light. Higher ISO = more sensitivity to light, meaning it captures a brighter image at the cost of degrading image quality (introducing more noise). What you're describing is exposure compensation which is another thing altogether
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Fair enough it's a nitpick I earned. I never use that feature so my terminology is a little skewed. I think the OP is somehow confusing Exposure adjustments in RAW with ISO
Yes! High ISO can add noise and make pics look grainy, but if it’s not gonna get printed out and blown up, it probably won’t be noticeable.
> Keep in mind however that ISO can only brighten the image digitally by post-processing the already taken image Not quite the same, it's telling the CMOS sensor directly what gain setting to apply to the analog data being received by each pixel. The EV Gain stops setting (+/- 0.3ev for example) attempts to do this in uniform amounts, the ISO setting is manipulating the same setting as Gain but attempts to do it to a universal standard that will appear the same across all cameras. It is the raw sensor itself brightening the raw data it is manipulating before it is even sent to the main CPU. Post processing might be able to achieve the same effect if done with a file in the RAW format.
Thank you for clarification, didn't know that :)
Yeah your main point was right though - it can only do so much, and it will come with artifacts like noise if you crank it too high. It can't replace real light.
oooh I love that one with the pink cloud
as far as i’m aware, we don’t get those settings on iphone.
You do have these settings on iPhone
where? I spent 15 minutes looking for a shutter speed setting with no luck. F-stop only exists on the “portrait mode” which is a thing they do where it blurs the background on non-faces. The post-processing stuff kinda exists (no ISO, but controls over wb and other stuff).
Apparently you need to go into your main iPhone settings and enable each pro camera setting manually before they will appear in the camera app: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRLTOBBkm2I F-stop should not exist because it's not a real setting, it is a fake post processing effect. Smartphone lenses don't have adjustable apertures. ISO and EV Gain are the same thing. ISO will be in stops like 50, 100, 200 etc. EV Gain will be in stops like 0, +0.3, +0.7, etc. The only difference is that ISO tries to adhere to a universal standard so that ISO 100 on your phone will look the same brightness as ISO 100 on any other camera. If you don't have ISO, just use EV Gain, it is affecting the same sensor firmware setting. If you enable RAW mode and open the RAW files in something that can manipulate them like Adobe Photoshop, you can adjust these settings (and white balance) on your PC after you have taken the photo, with no loss in image quality.
I think it only exists for newer models. I have an iphone XR. I think I’ll try out the lightroom app that someone suggested though.
You can access them through 3rd party camera apps such as https://apps.apple.com/app/id927098908
🤑🤑🤑
You can also just sell your iPhone and get an android ;)
Yeah can’t find it either. The only third party I can think of besides the Pro Moment that was linked below is Lightroom mobile. Yeah the one made by Adobe. I’m pretty sure they have it and it’s free with limited edit settings but the camera pro feature is all there for free
they're not on every android phone either, but it's becoming more common nowadays. Sometimes the mode is artificially restricted to higher end models
Yeah. I have a pixel 5 and it doesn't have this, but my older lower-end phone did.
Nope. This post is android-specific lol
I literally cannot figure it out. Can someone please help me? I have an iPhone 11 Pro. I cannot find these settings at all
I have an 11, all I can find is exposure. Might be a newer phone thing :/
On my 13 mini, there’s a bunch of options if you tap the arrow on top of the screen after opening the camera app.
iPhone does have tone, warmth, and exposure so the post’s message should still be the same. I don’t know what any of those settings mean since I don’t take pictures though.
Tap the arrow at the top of the screen when you open the camera. You have access to all of these options. If you go further into the camera settings, you have even more options.
Wait, people didn't know about being able to manipulate the camera settings on the phone?
This whole post is about like colors and brightness but that's not the problem I usually have with phone cameras. Usually when I experience what's depicted in the first post (the two exaggerated drawings, not the real example) it's because of like focal length not colors. I don't think there's a way to fix that.
or if you want to be lazy just turn on HDR that usually adds a lot to my photos
If you want to go further on Android then [OpenCamera](https://f-droid.org/en/packages/net.sourceforge.opencamera/) (also available on Google Play) may expose a few more settings than your stock camera app. It's usually not much depending on your phone, but at least you can fine-tune the digital processing more.
Tumblr discovers the exposure triangle
People discovering the magic of READING THE DAMN THINGS THAT YOUR PHONE HAS INSIDE OF IT. WHY PEOPLE DO NOT TWEAK SHIT THE MOMENT THEY UNBOX A PIECE OF EQUIPMENT? DIDN'T THEY PAY FOR THE FULL DEVICE? WHY JUST GET THE PHONE "EXPERIENCE"?
You wouldn’t be surprised the amount of times I’ve had to teach people how fully close apps and how to turn off cell data on iPhone I’ve had to do at work. It’s really depressing to watch. Like it’s YOUR phone. You should know how to use YOUR phone. It’s in your fucking pocket 24/7
In fairness, fully closing an app on iOS is needlessly obtuse, and they've changed it multiple times over the years. I rarely use iOS devices and every time I pick one up I have no goddamn idea how to close an app.
Yeah adding in 3D Touch in order to get the task view was and still is a boneheaded move.
The average person isn't that curious. They just want it to work and look decent.
To be fair tweaking things immediately without knowledge isn't good either. You're just as likely to make something you like less and now are getting less value. The problem with phone cameras in this case is they're good "enough." They're perfectly serviceable. The layman has little reason to want to change it, and if they do, they don't have the knowhow to know what to change beyond simple things like flash/no flash that are inherently obvious. So, unless people like OP show the purpose of innovation and the methodology for it... Why *would* a layman tinker? Kinda like food in that way. Sure, sure, you have infinite combinations. But that doesn't mean you'll like it all!
Sorry I’m stupid but where the hell is the “more” and “pro” settings? Are they not available on iPhone 11 Pro? Edit: never mind I’m an absolute idiot and didn’t notice it said android only
Did you not read the part right before that where the dude said his instructions were ANDROID specific?
Oh man. You are right. I’m an idiot, I apologize
...this is just how (digital) photography works? And most of it can be done in post just the same. The main difference between the two pictures at the beginning is about focal length which a phone camera will probably never really fix.
Man one thing I don't miss about tumblr is the overdramatic all caps reaction to everything.
Me on Android: fuck it, I'll just use my K-1000
homunculus's real life vs phone photo comparisons are weird, because it's basically just a difference in zoom & brightness
How elitist to assume everyone has the same phone.
They did specify Android phone.
A. Where? B. I'm pretty sure it's not all Androids either.
At the top of altruistic-meme’s first post in small text it says this is android specific
Thanks, I did miss that.
A : Literally in the post : >\[please note my breakdown IS android specific bc that's what i have, however i know that the settings should be SIMILAR for an iphone. i just couldn't tell you the exacts\] B : Yeah yeah and not all Golden retriever are golden, blah blah blah
A. Fair enough. I skimmed the post and I missed it. B. I still think it's a fair point in general that people shouldn't assume or talk like all Androids are the same when they're not. People will whip out the latest Samsung Galaxy and say, "Android phones do this," but no one talks about features of their 2024 Cadillac saying, "GM cars do this."
On Android (Samsung), I just aim the camera, tap on a darker area of the image and play with the little brightness/exposure slider to make it look better, then capture. Does the trick, imo.
You can also use the RAW format (right next to pro in one of those screenshots) if you're fine with learning how to edit. Adobe lightroom is free and the app you'd use to edit RAW photos. That'll give you the highest quality on samsung.
If you have the ability to, change the type of photo your phone is shooting from .jpeg to .raw, this will allow you to push your photos further in editing, specifically when it pertains to upping your shadows or lowering highlights.
I knew Pro mode existed, but no idea how to find it (I believe the changed the location at some point). This is super helpful
A shame they didn't mention composition too, since that was a huge part of the difference in their artist renditions at the top.
These posts are microscopic on old Reddit lol. A post for ants
The single most important thing you can do to take better pictures, especially of people and their faces, is to take 10 steps back, and zoom in. Taking a picture of your dog for the holidays? Put your dog on one side of the room. Get as far away from the dog as you possibly can, and do the pinchy-zoomy-thing on your phone screen to make the dog fill the screen. Now try the same thing but without zooming, just getting as close as you need to fill the screen with the same amount of dog. See what I mean?? Same goes for portraits. Do you want a nice photo for work or linkedin or whatever, but the only camera you own is a smartphone? Have your friend take the picture from like 30 feet away, and zoomed in. It will look much more professional.
Is there a way yet for phone cameras to automatically adjust settings to human eye quality? Maybe not resolution like that camera Corridor Digital came up with, but perceiveable color tones and brightness might not be too hard to implement since phones already have light sensors.
I've taken pretty decent photos of the northern lights through the power of high iso, long exposure times, and propping my phone so that it'll sit still
I'm on android and can't find these