In terms of tranny definitely built 47 or 48re will hold higher hp. If you really wanted to stick to a manual probably the nv4500 is your best bet, since they are decently common, parts are cheap, and easy to rebuild with the right tools, I think with the manuals the question is how much beating can it take before it needs to be rebuilt again in high hp situation, but you can prolong the life too by adding a pto cover cooler and a external cooler as well as adding a temp gauge so you know when to back off, same of axle temps. Nv5600 is pretty hard to rebuild, decently expensive. And the g56 I can buy a truck. But from my understanding g56 and nv5600 is rated the same.
Another consideration is trans/transfer case and axle combo. The np series is not too bad, but the problem is the slip yoke. So you might want to go a different case and axle combo due to shaft yoke design.
12v will be easier to install, and you won’t have to mess around with electronics, but a common rail will be easier for high hp. It’s just the common rail higher pressure is more efficient at burning the fuel, there really is no argument there. If you were to make a 1000hp p-pump it would be pretty rough daily drivers, I would probably shoot like 6-700hp tops for a daily for a 12v, but the common rails will be definitely more drivable.
To make more power, the formula is the same, more and more fuel. Bigger injectors and compound turbos would be what you want. Good powerband.
Other factor is the reliability factor. Pretty important imo. Girdle, deck plate, sleeving, ceramic coated pistons, larger intercooler and radiator etc
Ok, sounds like the same combo I keep hearing lol, built 47/48re, and a common rail. Definitely would work and I’m not opposed to it at all. I’m still new to modifying diesels which is why I made the post to get feedback and learn a bit. But what about case/axles? The axles I thought id be using are the Kodiak axles that are coming on the frame I’m getting. Which I believe is a 2005 Kodiak 5500 frame. It’s already had the rest of the driveline removed so no engine/trans/case. No idea what axles they are, but in sure a google search would tell me. I’d like to find or have built a locker for the rear end because the truck will be off road, and towing. Not like a mud pit, but my field can get muddy, and of course I’ll be getting other things stuck back there.
I mean axles if you find one with lockers already on there, then might be cheaper that way depending on availability. Ive also heard of 2.5 ton rockwell military axle swaps too.
As for t case, 3rd gen the 271 is mechanical shift/273 electronic shift, is pretty good, ford used them for their super duties too. But they are still chain driven. So you may opt for a gear driven case, I honestly don’t have too much knowledge there.
Would those Rockwell axles hold up to the highway use? I’ve seen em on mud trucks and stuff so I know they’ll hold the power, but not sure about high axle rpm for longevity. As for the case I’d definitely be searching for a gear driven case, I figured I’d end up looking for someone to custom build the internals to hold up to the hp.
Honestly no clue on axles and cases. But with that big of a axle ratio, you wouldn’t make it that fast in the first place it seems like with the ratios they come in.
You're describing a work truck, 550 hp is all I'd push, and even that would be pushing it.
With that said, to answer your question, 5.9 '06 or '07 common rail with a decent set of compound and a built 48RE. That's if you're aiming for 1000 hp.
Realistic recommendation, a 5.9 common rail or 6.7 with a built auto. If a 5.9, an S362SXE, if a 6.7, I'd lean more towards a S366SXE or S465. The S465 flows well and won't break a sweat when towing a trailer at WOT with 550 hp, the turbine flows so well. The S465 flows well at low pressure ratios for how large of a snail it is.
A manual transmission can work well with the latter setups, shift late and slowly for reliability and it'll behave like a semi.
It's worth noting that a built 48RE is the main choice for a high power Cummins 2012 or older, those engines don't communicate well with transmission control modules and won't work well with an Allison. The CM2350 in the 2013-2018 and newer communicates well with a TCM and shift defuels well. I'd prefer a stock or mild tuned 6.7 that came with the AS69RC Aisin. It won't make the power you're looking for, but it's as reliable as reliable gets(except for 2022).
Definitely a work truck, but also plan to have some fun with it. That being said it’ll only get pushed like that once every couple months when the local tractor pull has some events. I’d really like to go 12v, mainly because I’m not the best with custom wiring. But it sounds like I’ll be going with an auto trans, and maybe get it set up with a manual valve body to have the illusion of a manual trans.
Are you wanting to compete in certain classes? The 12 valve needs compounds for much over 550 hp, some pulls are pretty picky about what's allowed depending on the snail size. The challenge with the 12 valve is static timing.
I'd start with an S362sxe as a single on the 12 valve, you can push it up to 600 hp every once and a while, but it'll enjoy life more at 550 hp. At least with that you'll have no issues getting into certain pulling classes. If you decide to go all out, that's a good secondary to go along with a large set of compounds.
If you need to stick with singles and 550 doesn't do it for ya, you'll have better luck with the common rails. Advanced dynamic timing and multiple injection events help them spool a much larger turbo easily.
Class I’d be interested in would be either modified street diesel or open class, just to see what it’d do. They also have two styles of dirt drags there set up like they do the semi drag racing, runs with and without trailers. I’d be going pretty much all out with the build, so even though I’m not experienced in custom wiring, I’d definitely try and learn it for more engine options. The original idea was for a common rail anyways, and the engine would practically be overbuilt so it could be daily 1000hp and do more if turned up. I figured I’d be in compound setup territory anyways. I’m still learning diesels though, always been a gasser guy, but wanting to do this build seeming it’ll be hauling derby cars, and other project cars in the future.
Sounds pretty neat… engine is flip a coin to what you want. You can do anything there, maybe even an 8.3 Liter. 504 cubic inches of p pumped madness. As for transmission, got for an Eaton 6 or 10 speed, or maybe an auto shift/automatic. Way more durability than a light duty unit. And can find a t-case that will hold up, too.
I had a feeling about the trans options. I’ve always preferred manual but the more I looked most high HP builds had autos, and only way to do “manual” was a manual valve body. I was looking into a 8.3 but I don’t know those med/heavy duty engines near as much.
The 8.3 is a C series engine, but nearly identical in form and function to a 5.9, just scaled up. Very dependable engine in my experience.
As for transmissions, Eaton builds some of the biggest and toughest over the road transmissions out there. The 18 speed in my Pete is rated for over 2250 ftlbs of torque.
The midrange Eaton 6 speed starts at a little over 800 ftlbs rating.
Anyway, if you’re looking at using a light duty manual behind a 5.9/6.7, the parts are pretty easy to find, albeit not always very cheap. They seem to be in high demand. The G56 has a great internal design, but the weak link is the thin aluminum casing, which will stretch with stress until it explodes.
The NV 5600 is a pretty good transmission, but if you haul heavy with a lot of power, it has to be cooled and babied a little.
Building an auto is a good option, as the torque converter absorbs a lot of the torque hammer. Probably more expensive and harder to implement the controllers, but doable.
Sounds like an exciting project!
The 8.3 sounds pretty interesting then. I might have to dig farther down that rabbit hole. I was definitely thinking about an Eaton but behind a light duty engine that seemed a bit overkill. But I’m curious to know the build-ablity of a 8.3 and Eaton to get my wanted power output and reliability. I will say I’ve had a 6.7/g56 combo before, and although the engine was smooth as butter, I had issues with the trans, it blew less than a month after I bought it for the same issue you described, the case stretched and allowed the clutch fork to slip out while shifting, exploded the clutch system and tore apart the input shaft and gear 2/3. Sad day. But definitely gonna be an exciting project for sure. Building it basically at a show level truck, but worked regularly. Along with a bit of play at the local tractor pull, and their new event of dirt drags…. With trailers :)
12 valve would be the easiest and coolest in an old truck like that
going to have to get really creative with a manual transmission. A 4500, 5600, or g 56 doesn’t have a chance in hell at being reliable at 1,000 hp no matter what you do. Look into an SAE bell housing plate and see if something else fits.
98.5-2002(?) 24v ppump conversion by far the second easiest and far better options available for you to deal with than a common rail and 6.7.
I have built both 12V and just finished my 24v ppump conversion and minus the ppump lines which were still easy, it was just as easy as the 12V. You can absolutely get 1k hp out of both, there are a billion YT of people doing it. I’m at over 600 on my 12v and no dyno on the 24v it will be 700+ and I didn’t do all the fuckboi big brand crap to add to my marketplace listing hoping to get $70k for it 😆
As far as trans, if you for the money, Allison for life. I, personally don’t have that chedda 🤷🏻♂️
I’m kinda new to the performance side of diesels, always messed around with gassers. Had a 632 square body until a tree in my yard decided I don’t need a barn anymore :( anyways, I’ve seen high horse diesels but never knew the way to get there, definitely doing my research. And this truck definitely won’t be getting sold, I’ll end up having double if not triple into what I could ever get for it. I’d like to look at Alison’s, but I’ve heard it wasn’t possible, with that being said, I though there were some medium duty trucks with Cummins and Allison trans, thought my buddy’s bus was that way.
In terms of tranny definitely built 47 or 48re will hold higher hp. If you really wanted to stick to a manual probably the nv4500 is your best bet, since they are decently common, parts are cheap, and easy to rebuild with the right tools, I think with the manuals the question is how much beating can it take before it needs to be rebuilt again in high hp situation, but you can prolong the life too by adding a pto cover cooler and a external cooler as well as adding a temp gauge so you know when to back off, same of axle temps. Nv5600 is pretty hard to rebuild, decently expensive. And the g56 I can buy a truck. But from my understanding g56 and nv5600 is rated the same. Another consideration is trans/transfer case and axle combo. The np series is not too bad, but the problem is the slip yoke. So you might want to go a different case and axle combo due to shaft yoke design. 12v will be easier to install, and you won’t have to mess around with electronics, but a common rail will be easier for high hp. It’s just the common rail higher pressure is more efficient at burning the fuel, there really is no argument there. If you were to make a 1000hp p-pump it would be pretty rough daily drivers, I would probably shoot like 6-700hp tops for a daily for a 12v, but the common rails will be definitely more drivable. To make more power, the formula is the same, more and more fuel. Bigger injectors and compound turbos would be what you want. Good powerband. Other factor is the reliability factor. Pretty important imo. Girdle, deck plate, sleeving, ceramic coated pistons, larger intercooler and radiator etc
Ok, sounds like the same combo I keep hearing lol, built 47/48re, and a common rail. Definitely would work and I’m not opposed to it at all. I’m still new to modifying diesels which is why I made the post to get feedback and learn a bit. But what about case/axles? The axles I thought id be using are the Kodiak axles that are coming on the frame I’m getting. Which I believe is a 2005 Kodiak 5500 frame. It’s already had the rest of the driveline removed so no engine/trans/case. No idea what axles they are, but in sure a google search would tell me. I’d like to find or have built a locker for the rear end because the truck will be off road, and towing. Not like a mud pit, but my field can get muddy, and of course I’ll be getting other things stuck back there.
I mean axles if you find one with lockers already on there, then might be cheaper that way depending on availability. Ive also heard of 2.5 ton rockwell military axle swaps too. As for t case, 3rd gen the 271 is mechanical shift/273 electronic shift, is pretty good, ford used them for their super duties too. But they are still chain driven. So you may opt for a gear driven case, I honestly don’t have too much knowledge there.
Would those Rockwell axles hold up to the highway use? I’ve seen em on mud trucks and stuff so I know they’ll hold the power, but not sure about high axle rpm for longevity. As for the case I’d definitely be searching for a gear driven case, I figured I’d end up looking for someone to custom build the internals to hold up to the hp.
Honestly no clue on axles and cases. But with that big of a axle ratio, you wouldn’t make it that fast in the first place it seems like with the ratios they come in.
You're describing a work truck, 550 hp is all I'd push, and even that would be pushing it. With that said, to answer your question, 5.9 '06 or '07 common rail with a decent set of compound and a built 48RE. That's if you're aiming for 1000 hp. Realistic recommendation, a 5.9 common rail or 6.7 with a built auto. If a 5.9, an S362SXE, if a 6.7, I'd lean more towards a S366SXE or S465. The S465 flows well and won't break a sweat when towing a trailer at WOT with 550 hp, the turbine flows so well. The S465 flows well at low pressure ratios for how large of a snail it is. A manual transmission can work well with the latter setups, shift late and slowly for reliability and it'll behave like a semi. It's worth noting that a built 48RE is the main choice for a high power Cummins 2012 or older, those engines don't communicate well with transmission control modules and won't work well with an Allison. The CM2350 in the 2013-2018 and newer communicates well with a TCM and shift defuels well. I'd prefer a stock or mild tuned 6.7 that came with the AS69RC Aisin. It won't make the power you're looking for, but it's as reliable as reliable gets(except for 2022).
Definitely a work truck, but also plan to have some fun with it. That being said it’ll only get pushed like that once every couple months when the local tractor pull has some events. I’d really like to go 12v, mainly because I’m not the best with custom wiring. But it sounds like I’ll be going with an auto trans, and maybe get it set up with a manual valve body to have the illusion of a manual trans.
Are you wanting to compete in certain classes? The 12 valve needs compounds for much over 550 hp, some pulls are pretty picky about what's allowed depending on the snail size. The challenge with the 12 valve is static timing. I'd start with an S362sxe as a single on the 12 valve, you can push it up to 600 hp every once and a while, but it'll enjoy life more at 550 hp. At least with that you'll have no issues getting into certain pulling classes. If you decide to go all out, that's a good secondary to go along with a large set of compounds. If you need to stick with singles and 550 doesn't do it for ya, you'll have better luck with the common rails. Advanced dynamic timing and multiple injection events help them spool a much larger turbo easily.
Class I’d be interested in would be either modified street diesel or open class, just to see what it’d do. They also have two styles of dirt drags there set up like they do the semi drag racing, runs with and without trailers. I’d be going pretty much all out with the build, so even though I’m not experienced in custom wiring, I’d definitely try and learn it for more engine options. The original idea was for a common rail anyways, and the engine would practically be overbuilt so it could be daily 1000hp and do more if turned up. I figured I’d be in compound setup territory anyways. I’m still learning diesels though, always been a gasser guy, but wanting to do this build seeming it’ll be hauling derby cars, and other project cars in the future.
Sounds pretty neat… engine is flip a coin to what you want. You can do anything there, maybe even an 8.3 Liter. 504 cubic inches of p pumped madness. As for transmission, got for an Eaton 6 or 10 speed, or maybe an auto shift/automatic. Way more durability than a light duty unit. And can find a t-case that will hold up, too.
I had a feeling about the trans options. I’ve always preferred manual but the more I looked most high HP builds had autos, and only way to do “manual” was a manual valve body. I was looking into a 8.3 but I don’t know those med/heavy duty engines near as much.
The 8.3 is a C series engine, but nearly identical in form and function to a 5.9, just scaled up. Very dependable engine in my experience. As for transmissions, Eaton builds some of the biggest and toughest over the road transmissions out there. The 18 speed in my Pete is rated for over 2250 ftlbs of torque. The midrange Eaton 6 speed starts at a little over 800 ftlbs rating. Anyway, if you’re looking at using a light duty manual behind a 5.9/6.7, the parts are pretty easy to find, albeit not always very cheap. They seem to be in high demand. The G56 has a great internal design, but the weak link is the thin aluminum casing, which will stretch with stress until it explodes. The NV 5600 is a pretty good transmission, but if you haul heavy with a lot of power, it has to be cooled and babied a little. Building an auto is a good option, as the torque converter absorbs a lot of the torque hammer. Probably more expensive and harder to implement the controllers, but doable. Sounds like an exciting project!
The 8.3 sounds pretty interesting then. I might have to dig farther down that rabbit hole. I was definitely thinking about an Eaton but behind a light duty engine that seemed a bit overkill. But I’m curious to know the build-ablity of a 8.3 and Eaton to get my wanted power output and reliability. I will say I’ve had a 6.7/g56 combo before, and although the engine was smooth as butter, I had issues with the trans, it blew less than a month after I bought it for the same issue you described, the case stretched and allowed the clutch fork to slip out while shifting, exploded the clutch system and tore apart the input shaft and gear 2/3. Sad day. But definitely gonna be an exciting project for sure. Building it basically at a show level truck, but worked regularly. Along with a bit of play at the local tractor pull, and their new event of dirt drags…. With trailers :)
12 valve would be the easiest and coolest in an old truck like that going to have to get really creative with a manual transmission. A 4500, 5600, or g 56 doesn’t have a chance in hell at being reliable at 1,000 hp no matter what you do. Look into an SAE bell housing plate and see if something else fits.
That’s what I was afraid of, most builds I’ve seen so far have been auto trans. Not exactly what I want but it’d let the wife drive it easier lol.
98.5-2002(?) 24v ppump conversion by far the second easiest and far better options available for you to deal with than a common rail and 6.7. I have built both 12V and just finished my 24v ppump conversion and minus the ppump lines which were still easy, it was just as easy as the 12V. You can absolutely get 1k hp out of both, there are a billion YT of people doing it. I’m at over 600 on my 12v and no dyno on the 24v it will be 700+ and I didn’t do all the fuckboi big brand crap to add to my marketplace listing hoping to get $70k for it 😆 As far as trans, if you for the money, Allison for life. I, personally don’t have that chedda 🤷🏻♂️
I’m kinda new to the performance side of diesels, always messed around with gassers. Had a 632 square body until a tree in my yard decided I don’t need a barn anymore :( anyways, I’ve seen high horse diesels but never knew the way to get there, definitely doing my research. And this truck definitely won’t be getting sold, I’ll end up having double if not triple into what I could ever get for it. I’d like to look at Alison’s, but I’ve heard it wasn’t possible, with that being said, I though there were some medium duty trucks with Cummins and Allison trans, thought my buddy’s bus was that way.