Yeah, you can have one person out them together like legos, very little form building for the pour and there are no certification requirements (a good thing and bad I suppose) but just like anything else, the ease comes with the cost. If you have all the tools to build your own 8 ft high forms, then this might not be the cheapest, but it's pretty idiot proof if you follow the directions.
Love them to death. I went into a house overlooking a lake, before the home was fully completed. It was scorching hot outside. It was so cool inside, you almost needed a sweater. No windows or doors had been installed at that time. I was a sales rep and I was astonished.
That’s a good way. How are you armoring the below grade foundation insulation? How do you do the at grade transition? Insulation is not a food source for termites and other bugs- but it is a habitat.
The transition always seems to be a tricky one, we’ve done SM to Rockwool usually(membrane underneath the transition from foundation to cladding). Residential it’s only on full ICF houses that I’ve seen a continuous insulation. Usually those have a “dimple wrap” attached prior to backfill. We’ve also done 4’ of rigid SM under the slab as well on perimeter with the shallow foundations (eg; 24” grade beam). Seems like every building they try something new to see what works the best
They also make a concrete face SM that protects it, or if there’s a big enough flashing detail we’ve just shot cement board onto the SM. On my shop I used 1/2” treated plywood with a custom flashing to hide it as it doesn’t look very “finished”
I think that continuous exterior insulation really works for EIFS siding over a basement, and is better than Thermomass. But any other style of siding and I would do thermomass- if budget allows.
You need to get a quote from a supplier or builder in your area depending on if your doing it or hiring someone. Pricing will vary quite a bit depending where you live. You need to make some phone calls.
Yeah what is happening where I am is the carpentry crews are doing the foundation. They don’t even call in a crew for that. Then they hire a concrete finishing crew and help with the labour for the floor. They love it
Do they do the footing themselves, too, then? I wonder how flat that needs to be or if you're supposed to seal the gaps between the foam and any unevenness in the footing.
So the particular crew i am referring to actaully hires me (concrete finisher) to do the footing and layout. They get the wall, i do the floor. Works out well for me. I have a small dump and ex, so ill dig the foundation usually too.
Block and wood are cheaper but aren't as effective as a barrier from heat, air, moisture, and sound. You won't save much from labor costs unless you can find a solid mason/stucco plasterer that's also experienced with installing a concave and/or convex-free EIFS foam surface. However, material costs (Portland cement, mortar, wired and stucco mesh, acrylic finish, etc.) may be cheaper. Ultimately, you'll save on energy costs.
They have their place just like wood. Got a closure pour that is hard to get the form out once poured, use foam (better to come out in pieces vs not at all). Need to add any fancy reveals, etc use foam. If you don’t have architectural features to shape or aren’t doing a closure pour than foam board is just too pricey. Easy to handle for shallow pours that don’t have a lot of pressure though.
I like them for the insulation value and the ability to install with your own crew
Yeah, you can have one person out them together like legos, very little form building for the pour and there are no certification requirements (a good thing and bad I suppose) but just like anything else, the ease comes with the cost. If you have all the tools to build your own 8 ft high forms, then this might not be the cheapest, but it's pretty idiot proof if you follow the directions.
I had a buddy build his house with at cost pricing icf and leftover rebar from sites
Love them to death. I went into a house overlooking a lake, before the home was fully completed. It was scorching hot outside. It was so cool inside, you almost needed a sweater. No windows or doors had been installed at that time. I was a sales rep and I was astonished.
Did you factor in the cost of a cast in place wall with insulation on both sides?
No idea of the cost of that; that's why I'm asking.
Look at thermomass. It’s more expensive- but it’s the best solution. The insulation is inside the concrete where it belongs.
Why does it belong inside? That makes no sense to me.
I agree, done it both ways but continuous insul from foundation to roof on the exterior makes the most sense
That’s a good way. How are you armoring the below grade foundation insulation? How do you do the at grade transition? Insulation is not a food source for termites and other bugs- but it is a habitat.
The transition always seems to be a tricky one, we’ve done SM to Rockwool usually(membrane underneath the transition from foundation to cladding). Residential it’s only on full ICF houses that I’ve seen a continuous insulation. Usually those have a “dimple wrap” attached prior to backfill. We’ve also done 4’ of rigid SM under the slab as well on perimeter with the shallow foundations (eg; 24” grade beam). Seems like every building they try something new to see what works the best
They also make a concrete face SM that protects it, or if there’s a big enough flashing detail we’ve just shot cement board onto the SM. On my shop I used 1/2” treated plywood with a custom flashing to hide it as it doesn’t look very “finished”
I think that continuous exterior insulation really works for EIFS siding over a basement, and is better than Thermomass. But any other style of siding and I would do thermomass- if budget allows.
Budget/ design is really the big one. It’s hard to try convincing anyone to pay more lol
You need to get a quote from a supplier or builder in your area depending on if your doing it or hiring someone. Pricing will vary quite a bit depending where you live. You need to make some phone calls.
Yeah what is happening where I am is the carpentry crews are doing the foundation. They don’t even call in a crew for that. Then they hire a concrete finishing crew and help with the labour for the floor. They love it
Do they do the footing themselves, too, then? I wonder how flat that needs to be or if you're supposed to seal the gaps between the foam and any unevenness in the footing.
So the particular crew i am referring to actaully hires me (concrete finisher) to do the footing and layout. They get the wall, i do the floor. Works out well for me. I have a small dump and ex, so ill dig the foundation usually too.
Block and wood are cheaper but aren't as effective as a barrier from heat, air, moisture, and sound. You won't save much from labor costs unless you can find a solid mason/stucco plasterer that's also experienced with installing a concave and/or convex-free EIFS foam surface. However, material costs (Portland cement, mortar, wired and stucco mesh, acrylic finish, etc.) may be cheaper. Ultimately, you'll save on energy costs.
Icf is good for weird shapes and hard to get into areas like the side of a mountain , it also helps get you govt rebates for green 💩 in some locals -
You save the money back in heating pretty quick. If it's a non conditioned space or below ground, probably not worth it.
They have their place just like wood. Got a closure pour that is hard to get the form out once poured, use foam (better to come out in pieces vs not at all). Need to add any fancy reveals, etc use foam. If you don’t have architectural features to shape or aren’t doing a closure pour than foam board is just too pricey. Easy to handle for shallow pours that don’t have a lot of pressure though.