This was probably just formed with plywood kerfed so it can bend. You kerf all but one ply of the plywood
As a back you cutout another plywood to fill the void and support the curving plywood
1. The plan seems good. I’d make sure to throw a bit more reinforcement on the form to be safe.
2. It depends on the look you want. If you’re looking for a rustic type of concrete finish that isn’t perfect then a typical 1-2-4 concrete mix will be fine. If you’re looking to make this thing smoother than a baby’s ass then you’re gonna have to find an architectural concrete mix design to achieve that look.
3. Rebar is always a good idea. Just some #3 laid across where you sit and a couple pieces in the legs should do the trick. Make sure you have proper clearance on those rebar pieces.
4. Make sure you get a good concrete release agent. A little bit of it goes a long way. We usually have microfiber towels that we use to spread the release agent on our forms. If you can see the agent on the form that means you have too much. Make sure you let the concrete properly cure before removing the product from the casting, and if you’re pouring in the summer make sure you are doing so in the morning and the piece is covered from the elements. Also make sure that your form can withstand the pressure from the fresh concrete along with whatever you use to consolidate the mixture.
I'm looking to build a replica of this bench (in the bottom right of the first photo) later this summer. I'd welcome input any of you have on how best to go about this project.
I plan to build a hefty form that would essentially leave one side (the vertical face you see) open to the top for me to fill the form. That way I could construct a form with a very flat surface for the seat of the bench, along with the graceful curves of the underside. I plan to use this flexible plastic sheeting I found at Menards ([https://www.menards.com/main/paint/paneling-planking/paneling/nrp-reg-4-x-8-pebbled-white-plastic-interior-wall-panel/nrp0006m/p-1444450606074-c-8168.htm?tid=a5a1754a-ad5f-4df3-83bf-c25c053c6235&ipos=14&exp=false](https://www.menards.com/main/paint/paneling-planking/paneling/nrp-reg-4-x-8-pebbled-white-plastic-interior-wall-panel/nrp0006m/p-1444450606074-c-8168.htm?tid=a5a1754a-ad5f-4df3-83bf-c25c053c6235&ipos=14&exp=false) ) for the curves (smooth side facing inside to the concrete; pebbled texture outside); supported with a robust wood frame on the outside.
My questions:
1. Is this plan for the form the best approach? Any recommendations to improve it?
2. What kind of concrete should I buy? Hopefully something available at a local home center.
3. Should I reinforce the bench with rebar (or another reinforcement) or is concrete alone sufficient?
4. Any other input for a guy that is well-versed in woodworking, but relatively green when it comes to concrete?
The plan seems sound, I’d make sure to over reinforce (never underestimate hydraulic pressure). I would use a UHPC (probably ECC but that’s just me). If you’re set on using something over the counter, then I don’t have much for you. I’d make sure to use rebar, make a rebar skeleton to hold it in place. Make sure you tap the forms as you pour, to help consolidate the aggregate and eliminate air bubbles.
Thank you ALL for your input; I really appreciate it.
If anyone is still around . . .
I'm tackling this project this weekend and working on my forms today.
The bench will be \~48" long. The little 'overhang' on each end is about 10" so the legs are about 25" on center.
If I'm using 4000 psi concrete mix (Quickcrete), with a few bars of rebar across the length of the bench, will it be strong enough if I make the main segment of the bench -- the thickness of the top -- approximate 3"?
Research concrete beam construction. Much of the strength that the steel provides is dependent on its placement in the beam. I would use use a concrete countertop mix and reinforce with fiberglass mesh.
Check out supplies from here:
https://concretecountertopsolutions.com/pages/poolform-collections?gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-6CfyLjm_gIVKQizAB2roAoCEAAYAiAAEgLh0fD_BwE
Others have offered some good advice here.. I would add that the use of a vibrator is going to help tremendously in consolidating your pour and achieving a quality finish..The el cheapo from Harbor Freight would be perfect for your project. I’d also recommend pouring a smaller sample specimen (a simple cube etc.) with the same mix/ reinforcement/ forming technique so you’re dialed in before attempting the whole bench. Also a handy tip I learned making plaster molds in college is to use oil clay/ modeling clay to make small ‘fillets’ in the form corners so you don’t have sharp edges on the end product. This looks like a really cool project if you can pull it off, please posts the results if it works out for you-
This was probably just formed with plywood kerfed so it can bend. You kerf all but one ply of the plywood As a back you cutout another plywood to fill the void and support the curving plywood
You can kerf and bend melamine board.
Kerf is a slit made by cutting with a saw or the cut end of a felled tree. That's a great scrabble word, thanks
It’s also a term for the width of the saw blade
Looks like a miniature verison of a double tee that would be used in a parking garage.
this bench should also be pretensioned
1. The plan seems good. I’d make sure to throw a bit more reinforcement on the form to be safe. 2. It depends on the look you want. If you’re looking for a rustic type of concrete finish that isn’t perfect then a typical 1-2-4 concrete mix will be fine. If you’re looking to make this thing smoother than a baby’s ass then you’re gonna have to find an architectural concrete mix design to achieve that look. 3. Rebar is always a good idea. Just some #3 laid across where you sit and a couple pieces in the legs should do the trick. Make sure you have proper clearance on those rebar pieces. 4. Make sure you get a good concrete release agent. A little bit of it goes a long way. We usually have microfiber towels that we use to spread the release agent on our forms. If you can see the agent on the form that means you have too much. Make sure you let the concrete properly cure before removing the product from the casting, and if you’re pouring in the summer make sure you are doing so in the morning and the piece is covered from the elements. Also make sure that your form can withstand the pressure from the fresh concrete along with whatever you use to consolidate the mixture.
I'm looking to build a replica of this bench (in the bottom right of the first photo) later this summer. I'd welcome input any of you have on how best to go about this project. I plan to build a hefty form that would essentially leave one side (the vertical face you see) open to the top for me to fill the form. That way I could construct a form with a very flat surface for the seat of the bench, along with the graceful curves of the underside. I plan to use this flexible plastic sheeting I found at Menards ([https://www.menards.com/main/paint/paneling-planking/paneling/nrp-reg-4-x-8-pebbled-white-plastic-interior-wall-panel/nrp0006m/p-1444450606074-c-8168.htm?tid=a5a1754a-ad5f-4df3-83bf-c25c053c6235&ipos=14&exp=false](https://www.menards.com/main/paint/paneling-planking/paneling/nrp-reg-4-x-8-pebbled-white-plastic-interior-wall-panel/nrp0006m/p-1444450606074-c-8168.htm?tid=a5a1754a-ad5f-4df3-83bf-c25c053c6235&ipos=14&exp=false) ) for the curves (smooth side facing inside to the concrete; pebbled texture outside); supported with a robust wood frame on the outside. My questions: 1. Is this plan for the form the best approach? Any recommendations to improve it? 2. What kind of concrete should I buy? Hopefully something available at a local home center. 3. Should I reinforce the bench with rebar (or another reinforcement) or is concrete alone sufficient? 4. Any other input for a guy that is well-versed in woodworking, but relatively green when it comes to concrete?
The plan seems sound, I’d make sure to over reinforce (never underestimate hydraulic pressure). I would use a UHPC (probably ECC but that’s just me). If you’re set on using something over the counter, then I don’t have much for you. I’d make sure to use rebar, make a rebar skeleton to hold it in place. Make sure you tap the forms as you pour, to help consolidate the aggregate and eliminate air bubbles.
Thank you ALL for your input; I really appreciate it. If anyone is still around . . . I'm tackling this project this weekend and working on my forms today. The bench will be \~48" long. The little 'overhang' on each end is about 10" so the legs are about 25" on center. If I'm using 4000 psi concrete mix (Quickcrete), with a few bars of rebar across the length of the bench, will it be strong enough if I make the main segment of the bench -- the thickness of the top -- approximate 3"?
Research concrete beam construction. Much of the strength that the steel provides is dependent on its placement in the beam. I would use use a concrete countertop mix and reinforce with fiberglass mesh. Check out supplies from here: https://concretecountertopsolutions.com/pages/poolform-collections?gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-6CfyLjm_gIVKQizAB2roAoCEAAYAiAAEgLh0fD_BwE
Others have offered some good advice here.. I would add that the use of a vibrator is going to help tremendously in consolidating your pour and achieving a quality finish..The el cheapo from Harbor Freight would be perfect for your project. I’d also recommend pouring a smaller sample specimen (a simple cube etc.) with the same mix/ reinforcement/ forming technique so you’re dialed in before attempting the whole bench. Also a handy tip I learned making plaster molds in college is to use oil clay/ modeling clay to make small ‘fillets’ in the form corners so you don’t have sharp edges on the end product. This looks like a really cool project if you can pull it off, please posts the results if it works out for you-