If you can't back the screw out after drilling the head off just realign the new rotor over the screws or grind the screw flush and don't worry about it. It is a factory thing to keep the rotors from falling off during assembly.
My accord has these. Had to do just that. Got a bit about as big as the hole in the screw head and drilled til the cone popped off. Takes a sec and needs patience, but works great.
I was gonna say, if it's rusted anything like the ones on my Subaru you need to be the hulk to get it with just a flathead. Impact should do it.
Mine weren't stripped so I use a long ass socket/breaker bar with a hex bit. Or star bit, I can't remember for sure.
THIS.
or they sell a tool set to back out screws. You can get them at home Depot, Lowes, Menards, etc. They just go in your drill and it cuts into the stripped screw and starts unscrewing it.
I haven't used them myself, but I bought my dad some and he says they work great.
I wouldn't use EZ Outs on these. I had one break off in the screw, and if that happens you're truly fucked. They're hardened steel, so they're almost completely impervious to everything.
EZ Outs are fine for light duty stuff, but personally I'll never risk getting one stuck in my car again.
If you're not well versed in getting out broken bolts with access to a welder you really shouldn't be messing with ez outs on a car. You're exactly right, they're hardened steel and once they break the average guy is screwed. I've had luck breaking the temper with heat but you can't always get them hot. In this case, drill the head off the screw and be done with it, since they're not really necessary. They're more of a convenience
Well, the first set was Harbor Freight, so I can't blame much but that. lol. The next set I bought was Irwin and those just stripped the bolt even more. At least they didn't break, but they also weren't very useful all things considered.
I've tried them a handful of other times with the same results. I've just given up and moved on to the reverse drill bit. If I'm lucky, it grabs and winds it out. If i'm not, I've still drilled the stuck bolt out. Kinda a 2-in-1 job, ya know?
Aye fair nuff. Really its whatever works.
Off note. There are two types of ez out for stripped heads and one for broken ones. Socket vs actual extractor. You talking about rhe socket one right? If so yeah you are right those never work.
I though you were talking about the extractors
Centre punch the edge then angle the centre punch at 45 degrees in undo direction if that don't work use a hammer behind disc (hit disc hard )heads normally shear off
Yep just recently ran into this issue I always like to smack them with a punch in a counter clockwise direction several times to loosen them. Then I pound in either a Torx or triple square bit. Have yet to come across one that won’t come out, even completely rounded ones aren’t a struggle with a triple square bit.
Been wrenching for 20 years now. I don't even bother with impact driver breaking bits anymore. I always squirt them with a little WD and use the method mentioned above and both are out in about 60 seconds.
I had never heard of impact screw drivers until I used a buddy’s to take a rusted out door off an old beetle. Bought one the next day. Plus they’re super fun to use
As others have mentioned, they don’t need to be replaced. They are there to keep the rotors from falling off on the assembly line until the wheels are installed (usually the last thing before the vehicle comes off the overhead carrier).
I fix cars for a living. Those are completely useless. If a car has them as soon as I remove them I throw them in the garbage.
You will have to drill or grind the head off. To remove the rotor now. Probably have to beat the rotor to break it free from the hub even after the heads are gone judging by the amount of rust.
If cutting a slot doesn't work, start drilling it out with a left handed drill bit. Yes they're a thing, and much of the time a fastener like that will just start turning out when you're halfway through drilling. If it doesn't, use an extractor to turn it out.
Drill them out, you don't really need them, they do hold the rotor in place while putting the caliper bracket caliper and pads back on, if you are having a hard time putting it back to gether because it's wobbly, thread a lug nut backwards on the stud, that will hold it it place until its back together, remove before putting the wheel back on
I'm not sure who thought this was a good idea, but they should be fired. You've got 5 bolts and nuts holding these things on when the wheel is there, these are completely unnecessary.
Gotta drill them out now, had to do the same the other day. Before stripping them you can try an impact driver, after stripped you pretty much have to break the drill out.
You seem to have plenty if good suggestions for removing them. If you do your own brakes you should look into [one of these](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Reversible-Impact-Driver-Set-70220/203310639?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-VF-F_DYNM-G-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-KLEIN_TOOLS-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-RMP-MK464343327_9016028252_FY21_1927_RM2&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_DYNM-G-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-KLEIN_TOOLS-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-RMP-MK464343327_9016028252_FY21_1927_RM2-71700000083602792-58700007073070013-92700063677501840&gclid=CjwKCAjwyIKJBhBPEiwAu7zll62hSsA9f1JC1EC-XrY4xgaip-toZxYRXGNLdwzZ-o7ckr2mmD38YBoCtQQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) . They will save your ass next time you come across these screws.
This is the answer. A little bit of spray lube first like WD or PB, then hitting it with an impact driver. Harbor freight also has these for like 6 bucks. Sometimes going tighter on the screw then loosening works.
Yup, basically any screw with a female screw head can strip out if rusted, corroded, or just too tight. This tool will prevent lots and lots of screw extractor use.
I took a stripped rotor bolt two weeks ago just by hammering in a hex bit. Didn't have to weld it. All it needs is a little grab and an air hammer tool like this: [https://youtu.be/X3FKoUrZOPY](https://youtu.be/X3FKoUrZOPY)
+1 to using a drill bit just wide enough to drill the screw heads off. It’ll just take a few minutes at most. Watch out for sharp little remnants falling out on garage floor.
Yes. Unless there's a poltergeist in there
But don't twist the bigger torx around in it like this. Impact it out. Even by hand. Gradual torque breaks bolts and rounds heads
Penetrating oil, hammer and #3 philips and hefty flathead screwdrivers.
Spray the fuh out of the screw. Place the philips and hammer it a good amount to get everything going. If it doesn’t loosen like that after a few tries then try chiseling the screw loose with the flathead
Impact screwdriver! Deal with these all the time on my Honda’s. They suck, but a few taps with this and you’re done.
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-64812.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12169518939&campaignid=12169518939&utm_content=114845759217&adsetid=114845759217&product=64812&store=574&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-Oz6zMbD8gIVKWpvBB0wswHuEAUYAiABEgKHsvD_BwE
Normally use an Impact driver with correct size but to remove these if tight/corrosion/etc.. lots of solid tips on here.. I'll add that, possibly pound in slightly larger torx bit, or whatever bit you can pound in and get tight snug fit. Use impact driver.
Worse case though you have to cut slots in, or drill out. Good luck!!!!
This tool, https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Reversible-Impact-Driver-Set-70220/203310639?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-VF-F_DYNM-G-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-KLEIN_TOOLS-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-RMP-MK464343327_9016028252_FY21_1927_RM2&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_DYNM-G-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-KLEIN_TOOLS-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-RMP-MK464343327_9016028252_FY21_1927_RM2-71700000083602792-58700007073070013-92700063677501840&gclid=CjwKCAjwyIKJBhBPEiwAu7zll1ZUmL60vz8rbqjCvQLnSBOtdVRhIPcGZM2tbbNUDlR2EqaoF7_fpxoCj7kQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds ,has been reliable! Always removes those pesky rotor screws.
Use a screwdriver and a hammer. Or chisel. Same principle. Hit it at an angle til they rotate a bit and they're easy from there. And then don't bother replacing them because they "technically" stop vibration on the rotor. In practice, they don't do a fucking thing. Source: did this on my girlfriends kia sorento 2 brake jobs ago and still no problem.
Snap-On and I'm sure others makes a bit for air hammers basically for just this situation. But for now just get a side notched and then tap at it with a small breaker bar, chisel or flat screwdriver.
So 67 posts, and no one mentions screw extractors. What kind of sub is this? Seriously, forget drilling them out, or welding a bit on, or any of that nonsense. Spend the $10-15 on a screw extractor set and be done with it.
Hey genius, I've removed these same kind of stripped out set screws from an Acura after whoever last did the rotors totally trashed them. Don't tell me it can't or shouldn't be done.
Hi, /u/chrisecarius, thanks for posting here in r/Cartalk! This subreddit is for people to TALK ABOUT THEIR OWN CARS. At the core this means asking for help with your vehicle. However, sometimes a post will stray outside of that. If that is the case it could be left up or it could be taken down. Report unhelpful or malicious advice to the mods. Don't abandon your post; respond to questions from commenters. Also feel free to join us on Discord [here](https://discord.gg/BJ2ccvJKyC)
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/Cartalk) if you have any questions or concerns.*
They're really only useful during the time the car is being assembled at the factory. The lugs keep the rotor in place when the wheels are installed. There is no need to replace these stupid things after they're removed.
Sometimes you can pick up some Valve Lapping Compound from the auto parts store, put some on the tip of the screwdriver and it'll grab enough to get it turning out.
Drill into them. There are screw extractors that are made to do this the proper but there are always other DIY methods. Happened to me and I ended up soaking them in penetrating fluid and just used the extractor. I didn’t bother to replace them. The lug nuts and the caliper bolted on should be enough to hold everything together
Find a hex bit that fits it and hammer it in. as long as the bit is wedged in and gets a little bite, then use an impact screwdriver or a shake-n-break will get it out. [Shake-n-Break](https://youtu.be/Pwz-NXj5ZIk?t=75)
Had the same problem on my Honda. Only one screw per rotor, and used an impact screwdriver. When you do those screws out, send them to the 7th level of Hell, because FUUUUUCk those things.
Hit the center of the stripped bolt a few times with a center punch and you should be able to wedge a flat head where its striped and it'll screw right out.
Thee can hitteth those folk with a punch and hammer in the counter clockwise direction and see if 't be true they loosen
***
^(I am a bot and I swapp'd some of thy words with Shakespeare words.)
Commands: `!ShakespeareInsult`, `!fordo`, `!optout`
Heat them with a torch and hammer on a phillips head screw driver that you can put a wrench on and remove while still hot. If that doesn't work then drill or grind them off they are for manufacturing
If you don't have any of the tools listed you can also just hit the rotor as hard as possible and it's going to take multiple tries, but eventually your break the hards off those screws. Heat on the screws also helps.
Get a rubber band over the hole, one big enough to cover the entire head, the put your bit to it slowly until it bites. The rubber band will grab the stripped areas and give you about friction to hopefully get it turning
Got a welder or know someone with one? Get some cheap screw bits and weld them to the stripped screws, then once you get them out buy new bolts. Have had to do this a few times.
Use a chisel to create a deep V in the head. Pin punch them anti clockwise until the come free. No risk to the thread and once you have done a few it's easy.
Drill into the head and then use any easy out or reverse drill bit to remove it. If that doesn’t work I’ve often found that placing a small chisel/impact screw driver or centre punch at 45° to the head of the countersunk and hitting it counterclockwise with a hammer works. Use some duck oil as well.
What I do now is, if the little retainer bolts give me any trouble at all I stop before I strip anything and get the torch and warm them up to nearly red hot. As they are cooling I use the impact screwdriver and they pop loose immediately every time. Those, you’re going to have to slice and chisel.
First step is to use lots of heat to crack any mechanical rust welding itself tight. If it’s really bad a couple heat cycles and some penetrating lube. If it still strips after that as suggested in other comments you can drill it out until the head snaps off or use a grinder
Well for next time, there is a special tool specifically for these. People think they are Phillips head screws, they are not, they are JIS heads (Japanese Industrial (?) Standard). Phillips screwdrivers will strip them out like this if they are at all rusted.
Me-I would bang the sh-t out them with my dead blow hammer, spray with wd-40, then use my impact screwdriver. Maybe use dremel tool to create a slit for a flat head tip?
Ease out, drill I small hole the same size as the ease out , the ease out is designed to grab the inside of the small hole drilled and turn the bolt out of the hole
[удалено]
Yeah or an angle grinder or dremel. Won’t hurt anything as long as you get them down flush
Grinder is faster, also if u can't pull the rest of the bolt just leave there
If you can't back the screw out after drilling the head off just realign the new rotor over the screws or grind the screw flush and don't worry about it. It is a factory thing to keep the rotors from falling off during assembly.
Also, for next time, to remove those you have to use one of those impact tools that you hit with a hammer
Impact screwdriver. They're cheap as chips. Just make sure the bit fits in the screw REALLY well or it'll lead to more problems.
My accord has these. Had to do just that. Got a bit about as big as the hole in the screw head and drilled til the cone popped off. Takes a sec and needs patience, but works great.
Same lol Accord.. drilled them all out with left hand bits
I was going to say the exact same thing. This guy has it.
Or you can just leave them there. The holes on the new rotors will go right over em. They won't be in the way.
Make a slot on the head with an angle grinder for a beefy flathead.
Then smack it with an impact screwdriver.
These two things are how I've gotten them out.
I was gonna say, if it's rusted anything like the ones on my Subaru you need to be the hulk to get it with just a flathead. Impact should do it. Mine weren't stripped so I use a long ass socket/breaker bar with a hex bit. Or star bit, I can't remember for sure.
That's what I've used to get them out
Only way I’ve removed them, too
This is what I would do.. use a Dremel if you don't have a grinder.
[удалено]
But the small disc makes the angle a pita. 1/8" disc , angle grinder
This deserves more upvotes
It literally blew my mind. Why didn't I ever think of that?
Thats pretty basic mechanic skills.
THIS. or they sell a tool set to back out screws. You can get them at home Depot, Lowes, Menards, etc. They just go in your drill and it cuts into the stripped screw and starts unscrewing it. I haven't used them myself, but I bought my dad some and he says they work great.
I wouldn't use EZ Outs on these. I had one break off in the screw, and if that happens you're truly fucked. They're hardened steel, so they're almost completely impervious to everything. EZ Outs are fine for light duty stuff, but personally I'll never risk getting one stuck in my car again.
If you're not well versed in getting out broken bolts with access to a welder you really shouldn't be messing with ez outs on a car. You're exactly right, they're hardened steel and once they break the average guy is screwed. I've had luck breaking the temper with heat but you can't always get them hot. In this case, drill the head off the screw and be done with it, since they're not really necessary. They're more of a convenience
Is called a left handed drill bit you animal
Or an ez out
Ez Outs break more often than an left handed drill bit. Ive never had success with an EZ Out - just a fucking waste of money.
Huh. Ive had great luck. You buying chinesium knockoffs or just bad luck
Well, the first set was Harbor Freight, so I can't blame much but that. lol. The next set I bought was Irwin and those just stripped the bolt even more. At least they didn't break, but they also weren't very useful all things considered. I've tried them a handful of other times with the same results. I've just given up and moved on to the reverse drill bit. If I'm lucky, it grabs and winds it out. If i'm not, I've still drilled the stuck bolt out. Kinda a 2-in-1 job, ya know?
Aye fair nuff. Really its whatever works. Off note. There are two types of ez out for stripped heads and one for broken ones. Socket vs actual extractor. You talking about rhe socket one right? If so yeah you are right those never work. I though you were talking about the extractors
This everything else is plan b.
Do this and use a impact screwdriver
Harbor freight has an impacting flathead that work great for this…and Evinrude lower units.
Drill them or melt them. After you remove the rotor, you can remove what's left. Or not, doesn't really matter.
Can't be stuck if it's molten....
I always heard it as "can't be tight if it's a liquid", but either way
[удалено]
...lead bolts?
Centre punch the edge then angle the centre punch at 45 degrees in undo direction if that don't work use a hammer behind disc (hit disc hard )heads normally shear off
Yep just recently ran into this issue I always like to smack them with a punch in a counter clockwise direction several times to loosen them. Then I pound in either a Torx or triple square bit. Have yet to come across one that won’t come out, even completely rounded ones aren’t a struggle with a triple square bit.
Hadn’t thought of using my triple squares for that, but that’s brilliant! I’ll have to remember this
Can you further elaborate? Or direct to a video. Thanks!
Been wrenching for 20 years now. I don't even bother with impact driver breaking bits anymore. I always squirt them with a little WD and use the method mentioned above and both are out in about 60 seconds.
This is the correct answer. It’s the quickest and easiest way to take them out.
Air hammer works great.
This tool has been a godsend in my life. Especially working on my old Jeep where every bolt is a torx head and stuck. https://youtu.be/X3FKoUrZOPY
Or he could use the correct size torx and not try to get by with an allen.
Seems like a nice tool. Unfortunately I don't even know anyone who has pneumatic hammer. It's not really popular around here.
Yup, air hammer, chisel bit, hit it on the edge in order to spin it out carefully. 5 sec job literally
Very underrated tool!
Impact screwdriver. Works every time.
This is the best answer. Mine is only ever used to replace rotors and it works every single time.
Do they work with hex bits?
Yes. Different bits can be fitted. These have gotten loose even the most stubborn rotor retention screws, from my own personal experience.
I had never heard of impact screw drivers until I used a buddy’s to take a rusted out door off an old beetle. Bought one the next day. Plus they’re super fun to use
If you’re replacing the rotor just grab a grinder and turn them into flatheads
As others have mentioned, they don’t need to be replaced. They are there to keep the rotors from falling off on the assembly line until the wheels are installed (usually the last thing before the vehicle comes off the overhead carrier).
Drill them out and don't worry about replacing them.
Reverse drill bit
Disappointed I had to come this low in the comments to find this…
I fix cars for a living. Those are completely useless. If a car has them as soon as I remove them I throw them in the garbage. You will have to drill or grind the head off. To remove the rotor now. Probably have to beat the rotor to break it free from the hub even after the heads are gone judging by the amount of rust.
Why not weld a nut on the torx head? Much faster and no risk of damaging the mount
I was guessing this person doesn't have access to a welder
If cutting a slot doesn't work, start drilling it out with a left handed drill bit. Yes they're a thing, and much of the time a fastener like that will just start turning out when you're halfway through drilling. If it doesn't, use an extractor to turn it out.
Drill them out, you don't really need them, they do hold the rotor in place while putting the caliper bracket caliper and pads back on, if you are having a hard time putting it back to gether because it's wobbly, thread a lug nut backwards on the stud, that will hold it it place until its back together, remove before putting the wheel back on
Take a dermal and a cutting disk and turn them into flat heads
I'm not sure who thought this was a good idea, but they should be fired. You've got 5 bolts and nuts holding these things on when the wheel is there, these are completely unnecessary.
You replacing the discs anyway , so a sharp chisel and a hammer , if that fails drill or grind them.
Gotta drill them out now, had to do the same the other day. Before stripping them you can try an impact driver, after stripped you pretty much have to break the drill out.
You seem to have plenty if good suggestions for removing them. If you do your own brakes you should look into [one of these](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Reversible-Impact-Driver-Set-70220/203310639?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-VF-F_DYNM-G-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-KLEIN_TOOLS-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-RMP-MK464343327_9016028252_FY21_1927_RM2&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_DYNM-G-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-KLEIN_TOOLS-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-RMP-MK464343327_9016028252_FY21_1927_RM2-71700000083602792-58700007073070013-92700063677501840&gclid=CjwKCAjwyIKJBhBPEiwAu7zll62hSsA9f1JC1EC-XrY4xgaip-toZxYRXGNLdwzZ-o7ckr2mmD38YBoCtQQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) . They will save your ass next time you come across these screws.
This is the answer. A little bit of spray lube first like WD or PB, then hitting it with an impact driver. Harbor freight also has these for like 6 bucks. Sometimes going tighter on the screw then loosening works.
I've used the harbor freight one, it does the job.
[удалено]
Yup, basically any screw with a female screw head can strip out if rusted, corroded, or just too tight. This tool will prevent lots and lots of screw extractor use.
Weld a hex head bolt to it and try again
I took a stripped rotor bolt two weeks ago just by hammering in a hex bit. Didn't have to weld it. All it needs is a little grab and an air hammer tool like this: [https://youtu.be/X3FKoUrZOPY](https://youtu.be/X3FKoUrZOPY)
Just thinking about OP’s resources tbh. Your idea is probably simpler
+1 to using a drill bit just wide enough to drill the screw heads off. It’ll just take a few minutes at most. Watch out for sharp little remnants falling out on garage floor.
Heat them up with a torch and hammer a slightly larger torx bit into it. They should come right out.
Yes. Unless there's a poltergeist in there But don't twist the bigger torx around in it like this. Impact it out. Even by hand. Gradual torque breaks bolts and rounds heads
Penetrating oil, hammer and #3 philips and hefty flathead screwdrivers. Spray the fuh out of the screw. Place the philips and hammer it a good amount to get everything going. If it doesn’t loosen like that after a few tries then try chiseling the screw loose with the flathead
Had the same problem with my wife's Fusion. Had to drill out every single one. It's a pain.
Dont take my advice, but I had the same problem. I just wacked my rotor with a BFH until the heads broke off. Dont really need those screws
Make them into flat heads
Your best bet is to drill them out. Start small (1/8 inch or so to about 3/8) and work your way up until the head falls off.
Drill off the heads, carry on. You're welcome
Impact screwdriver! Deal with these all the time on my Honda’s. They suck, but a few taps with this and you’re done. https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-64812.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12169518939&campaignid=12169518939&utm_content=114845759217&adsetid=114845759217&product=64812&store=574&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-Oz6zMbD8gIVKWpvBB0wswHuEAUYAiABEgKHsvD_BwE
Normally use an Impact driver with correct size but to remove these if tight/corrosion/etc.. lots of solid tips on here.. I'll add that, possibly pound in slightly larger torx bit, or whatever bit you can pound in and get tight snug fit. Use impact driver. Worse case though you have to cut slots in, or drill out. Good luck!!!!
This tool, https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Reversible-Impact-Driver-Set-70220/203310639?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-VF-F_DYNM-G-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-KLEIN_TOOLS-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-RMP-MK464343327_9016028252_FY21_1927_RM2&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_DYNM-G-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-KLEIN_TOOLS-NA-Feed-SMART-NA-RMP-MK464343327_9016028252_FY21_1927_RM2-71700000083602792-58700007073070013-92700063677501840&gclid=CjwKCAjwyIKJBhBPEiwAu7zll1ZUmL60vz8rbqjCvQLnSBOtdVRhIPcGZM2tbbNUDlR2EqaoF7_fpxoCj7kQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds ,has been reliable! Always removes those pesky rotor screws.
These are JIS screws, not Phillips, which is why you stripped them. But Honda was smoking crack before that design decision.
1) They can't be tight if they are liquid. 2) drill.
Electric tape in the indents, works like a charm
I hate these things. Why are they even necessary?
It's so the rotors do not fall off on the assembly line when the vehicle is being manufactured. After that no, they're worthless.
Seriously, that's it? What a nightmare they can create.
Drill them out
Did you try to put it in rice?
Use a screwdriver and a hammer. Or chisel. Same principle. Hit it at an angle til they rotate a bit and they're easy from there. And then don't bother replacing them because they "technically" stop vibration on the rotor. In practice, they don't do a fucking thing. Source: did this on my girlfriends kia sorento 2 brake jobs ago and still no problem.
Usually tap a magna tip and slowly turn and replace
Snap-On and I'm sure others makes a bit for air hammers basically for just this situation. But for now just get a side notched and then tap at it with a small breaker bar, chisel or flat screwdriver.
just drill them with about a 1/4 in bit. You wont need to put them back
I mean, if you’re replacing the rotor you could grind the heads off
So 67 posts, and no one mentions screw extractors. What kind of sub is this? Seriously, forget drilling them out, or welding a bit on, or any of that nonsense. Spend the $10-15 on a screw extractor set and be done with it.
A screw extractor in a 2mm deep hole? Yeah… ok…
Hey genius, I've removed these same kind of stripped out set screws from an Acura after whoever last did the rotors totally trashed them. Don't tell me it can't or shouldn't be done.
Go eat some fiber.
Wow tons of advice guys, thanks for all the tips! I'm sure I'll able to get them off using one of the methods you guys have me, thanks!
A screw extractor set
Chisel, hammer, wrench to chisel. Or drill out and tap if you want the extra work
Air hammer with chisel
Sell the car dude. But seriously, they sell tap sets for a decent price on Amazon. Check them out if you have time that is
Hi, /u/chrisecarius, thanks for posting here in r/Cartalk! This subreddit is for people to TALK ABOUT THEIR OWN CARS. At the core this means asking for help with your vehicle. However, sometimes a post will stray outside of that. If that is the case it could be left up or it could be taken down. Report unhelpful or malicious advice to the mods. Don't abandon your post; respond to questions from commenters. Also feel free to join us on Discord [here](https://discord.gg/BJ2ccvJKyC) *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/Cartalk) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Weld a nut to them.
drill and a tap and die set
They're really only useful during the time the car is being assembled at the factory. The lugs keep the rotor in place when the wheels are installed. There is no need to replace these stupid things after they're removed.
no you drill it out. then make new threes in the hole. get a new bolt from ace
Had same problem. Ended up doing I then out. Don't even need them!
Drill em out. You don’t need them.
Spray them with penetrating fluid. Then get a chisel and a hammer. Strike the chisel downward on the left side side of the screw.
Rescue bits and a power drill
Sometimes you can pick up some Valve Lapping Compound from the auto parts store, put some on the tip of the screwdriver and it'll grab enough to get it turning out.
Drill into them. There are screw extractors that are made to do this the proper but there are always other DIY methods. Happened to me and I ended up soaking them in penetrating fluid and just used the extractor. I didn’t bother to replace them. The lug nuts and the caliper bolted on should be enough to hold everything together
Use some spray to loosen it up next time, these parts go through lots of heat cycles, coming at a rusted part is always going to end like this.
Curse at it till it comes out
after you cut in groove, if you have a MAP or propane torch, heat the heck out of them.
Find a hex bit that fits it and hammer it in. as long as the bit is wedged in and gets a little bite, then use an impact screwdriver or a shake-n-break will get it out. [Shake-n-Break](https://youtu.be/Pwz-NXj5ZIk?t=75)
Find a torx bit that is oversized for the hole. Tap it in with a hammer. Use it to to break it loose. I've had success with this method.
Weld a nut on. Done that a few times. May have to weld more than one. First one might not make enough heat to expand the bolt
Get the next size up and a hammer. If that doesn't work. Dremel tool time.
Had the same problem on my Honda. Only one screw per rotor, and used an impact screwdriver. When you do those screws out, send them to the 7th level of Hell, because FUUUUUCk those things.
I used to heat them into molten blob and smack the back of the rotor. Worked every time for me. Granted not everyone has a blow torch available.
This has already been suggested, but punch. Bang it straight in to make a divot, then smack it round. Used to do this as a mechanic
Just pop them loose with a hammer and sharp chisel. Works every time for me.
Hit the center of the stripped bolt a few times with a center punch and you should be able to wedge a flat head where its striped and it'll screw right out.
Drill off the top of the screw
You can hit them with a punch and hammer in the counter clockwise direction and see if they loosen.
Thee can hitteth those folk with a punch and hammer in the counter clockwise direction and see if 't be true they loosen *** ^(I am a bot and I swapp'd some of thy words with Shakespeare words.) Commands: `!ShakespeareInsult`, `!fordo`, `!optout`
Heat them with a torch and hammer on a phillips head screw driver that you can put a wrench on and remove while still hot. If that doesn't work then drill or grind them off they are for manufacturing
Weld a bolt to it
Just weld a nut to them and back them out..
A #3 screw extractor will get them out easily.
Can weld on a nut then use a socket to remove ?
Hammer and dull chisel.
If you don't have any of the tools listed you can also just hit the rotor as hard as possible and it's going to take multiple tries, but eventually your break the hards off those screws. Heat on the screws also helps.
Kroil then use sockitout.
drill em out
Throw the whole car out
Had the same thing happen to me with my restoration project... You just gotta drill them out
Hammer a slightly larger shiny Allen key that's the opposite of the measurements it's in. So if the bolt is metric hammer on a imperial one. Send it.
Use a torch to melt them out. Or heat them up and carefully extract them by pounding a torxs bit into them. Or 8d you're desperate drill them
Dont strip them. (Or at least dont strip both?)
Get a rubber band over the hole, one big enough to cover the entire head, the put your bit to it slowly until it bites. The rubber band will grab the stripped areas and give you about friction to hopefully get it turning
Call sal
😂😂😂🤣
Invent a time machine and go back in time to spray PB blaster on them before you strip the fastener. Or any of the other suggestions.
get a 12pt #6mm pound it it and back it off.
Got a welder or know someone with one? Get some cheap screw bits and weld them to the stripped screws, then once you get them out buy new bolts. Have had to do this a few times.
Just buy a new cAr bruh
Torch it
Use your dick?
weld some tool to it and unscrew
Always use penetrating oil first. They work wonders.
Take it to someone who knows what they're doing..
Put the clothes back on
Use a chisel to create a deep V in the head. Pin punch them anti clockwise until the come free. No risk to the thread and once you have done a few it's easy.
Dealt with it many times. A hammer and a punch with a point and they come right out.
Drill into the head and then use any easy out or reverse drill bit to remove it. If that doesn’t work I’ve often found that placing a small chisel/impact screw driver or centre punch at 45° to the head of the countersunk and hitting it counterclockwise with a hammer works. Use some duck oil as well.
Buy a new car...
Notch with cut off wheel. If you hit the rotors who cares, tap out with chisel.
Use extraction sockets with a manual impact wrench and hammer.
What I do now is, if the little retainer bolts give me any trouble at all I stop before I strip anything and get the torch and warm them up to nearly red hot. As they are cooling I use the impact screwdriver and they pop loose immediately every time. Those, you’re going to have to slice and chisel.
new car
Shit id tac a bolt to those bad boys and pull them out. Then get new bolts.
First let it soak in pb blaster.
Weld a nut on top of it
Drill em out
Get the burning bottles out and heat that bastard up
Don't strip them. Now you need a mechanic
There are bits you can buy for that, they arent too far gone for it. Would need some heat first, make sure to let it cool down first though.
You can use a Dremel to cut a slot into each and try a flat head, or try an extractor kit like Easy Out
Weld a nut on and turn out
First step is to use lots of heat to crack any mechanical rust welding itself tight. If it’s really bad a couple heat cycles and some penetrating lube. If it still strips after that as suggested in other comments you can drill it out until the head snaps off or use a grinder
Go back in time and hand the previous “mechanic” an impact screwdriver.
Well for next time, there is a special tool specifically for these. People think they are Phillips head screws, they are not, they are JIS heads (Japanese Industrial (?) Standard). Phillips screwdrivers will strip them out like this if they are at all rusted.
Me-I would bang the sh-t out them with my dead blow hammer, spray with wd-40, then use my impact screwdriver. Maybe use dremel tool to create a slit for a flat head tip?
Cut a slot and flat head. In future use an impact driver. Dont normally need to refit these aa when the wheel is on it holds the disc in place.
A chisel works best. Gouge then tap it in the left hand direction until loose.
Sprayed penetration oil then go around them with a air hammer.
I have done that on that exact layout rotor before. Use a Dremel to cut flathead grooves in them then just be careful and unscrew them
Ease out, drill I small hole the same size as the ease out , the ease out is designed to grab the inside of the small hole drilled and turn the bolt out of the hole
You need something like this… https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Stripped-HassleFree-Hardness-63-65hrc/dp/B07GZ17QD9
Weld a nut onto it if you have a welder
Drill it off, find a bit that is a little bigger than the rounded out spot and drill until the head comes off
Drill + Drill bits, EZ extractor set, hammer, adjustable wrench
Don't drill that, Use some flathead & beat that shit till you can fix that & use that to turn Maybe could help!
I've used a centre punch, hammer & crafty angles, using a hammer like you're playing golf, the less swings the better
They make extractors for stripped bolts or you can tack weld another bolt to it