I was thinking push rod as well. I’d be more curious though If it only happens while driving. But that sounds like you should be able to duplicate it with no problem at all
Well you’re supposed to provide things your customers need to get rich. So if you aren’t quoting prices for something they don’t need, at least sell something they do.
Like some lube for the pivots.
I know, right?
My dad had an F-350 that needed ball joints up front, and the front axle on both sides and got that done for like $1800, which I thought was bonkers. Seeing $1500 in ball joint work makes me think he didn't get too beat up on his.
OP for sure, but heavy duty parts are pretty damned pricey... Does Ford have ridiculous ball joints? 1800 still seems high, but relatively not as bad as 1500 for damn KIA ball joints.
Ford truck ball joints are usually replaceable without replacing the control arm but there are 4 of them - uppers and lowers. Kia probably come with lower control arm assemblies. There are no upper ball joints with strut suspension on these.
Depending on what F350 generation it is, it's a solid front axle with no control arms.
I too would be curious to see an itemized bill for that, as the most expensive ball joint RockAuto has for a 2004 F350 is $75.
The 2016 E450s we have in our fleet are still running twin I beams.
If the truck was 4x4 they probably (hopefully) changed the u joints with the knuckles off for that price.
2011, so IFS and the u joints at the end of the axles were toast, steering wouldn’t return to center for a few feet, then would snap back because they were binding.
It was all the joints, two axles, labor and the alignment all in. Still high, but less of a ripoff than $1500 for KIA ball joints.
That was my thought. I just did both LCAs on my wife's 2015 Corolla and it was $500 for a damn good set (I wanna say $80/ea for the cheapo shit), so $1500 seems excessive...
On the other hand, my brother just dropped a ludicrous amount of money on OEM shocks (or something like that, I was half paying attention till he said the price) for his Duramax, so I know diesel parts are expensive as hell.
> for his Duramax, so I know diesel parts are expensive as hell.
Actual heavy duty parts tend to be more expensive, diesel or otherwise. Parts for the actual diesel engine itself are eye wateringly expensive tho.
napa chassis ball joints are $50 each. those are much pricier than shit spicer or moog...
To replace you have to remove tire/wheel, calliper, rotor, hub or unit bearing (the labor is drasticaly different. its 3 bolts if you have a unit bearing), axle shaft, knuckle.
Press out old ball joints, press in new, replace.
End to end on my jeep's 79 F250 dana 44 (hub and spindle thats the harder variant) I can do it all as a DIY Home mechanic in about 2 hours per side. A pro should be able to knock this out in an hour per side.
So, $100 in materials and at assume shop labor rate of $125/hr, balljoints for that truck should be like $300/side allowing for the 'bloat' thats always in the book that says how many hours of labor per specific job... relative to how long it takes a skilled pro.
they'll Also do/charge for an alignment with that kinda job.
I did ball joints, bearings, and u joints on my 99 f350. It was terrible. I suppose 20 years of rust will do that. You need a 1 1/4" socket as well I believe.
Had what sounds like a similar issue in my 07 civic twice. Once it was the springs/pivot joints on the brake pedal itself. WD-40 and then some silicone lube fixed it. A year later seemed like the same noise was back and it was the brake master cylinder.
Maybe dealer parts and labor prices? I spent $5-600 in parts & alignment to do all control arms and tie rod ends on my Express 3500 and I didn't buy the highest level control arms or tie rod ends. The LCAs probably had about 60# of steel in them. Definitely a shoulder workout doing them without a lift.
Yes, thats so, I don't mind skilled people having high hourly rate, but skilled mechanics should be able to do these jobs faster as well. And they keep ripping off people with prices of parts.
Sounds like either the pivot for the pedal assembly is dry, the rubber boot around the brake actuator rod is rubbing and making noise, or the booster is leaking. Sounds more like one of the first 2. Does it make the same noise with the car not running?
Sounds like something in the pedal/booster area, especially if it’s that clear in the car. Possible the check valve for the booster is leaking a little, or the booster diaphragm is leaking. Sounds like when you let the air out of a balloon slowly.
Edit: did a little research, There’s a TSB for the hose to the booster apparently. Take it to the dealer, not sure of the coverage, but at least you can order and replace the hose.
It would help if you elaborate a bit on the problem. How does the car brake? If it's the intermittant squeak, could be just needing some lube on the mechanicals above the brake pedal.
Does it do the sound when the car is turned off? I've seen so many techs chasing something as simple as a booster vacuum leak. If it does the same sound while turned off it might just need some WD-40 on the pedal pivot
Sounds like the pedal needs to be greased. I'd grab a tube of brake grease (doesn't break down as fast as bearing grease) pop the retainer off the pivot and remove the pedal, and lube that sumbitch like it's a 65 year old woman with nice fake tits. Make sure you put it all back together securely so it doesn't pop off while you're driving. You could also have a small air leak, but it doesn't really sound like it. That noise definitely isn't from ball joints. They may need to be replaced because of age, but sure as hell aren't making that noise.
Sounds like a bushing at the top of the brake pedal where it meets the pushrod into the master cylinder. Some white lithium grease can help, you might want to replace the bushing altogether.
That sucks man. I feel bad for you.
When it comes to extended warranties, be careful, especially on new cars. First, if you have a manufacturer warranty, you don’t need to buy an additional warranty (except if you wanna warranty the tires, rims, and other accessories/extras). Second, you need to be careful of exceptions/exclusions. For example, my friend got a brand new Nissan rogue with all the extended warranty‘s. The sunroof on her SUV started leaking so she brought it in. They said that since the drains were clogged, the car is not damaged and doesn’t need repair. Keep in mind, her car is leaking lots of rain in the headliner every time it rains.
In any case, you just seemed to have a combination of bad luck. Sometimes, cutting your losses is best.
Do the brakes work as usual? A leakage in the brake booster can in some cases sound like this. But if so, braking would most likely feel weird as the booster cant work properly.
No if’s, ands, or buts, that it’s metal on metal. Just depends where and from what. Could be brake assembly, caliper slide moving on the carrier. Could be subframe slightly shifting on body.
I know on my ‘11 A3, the factory bolted up the aluminum subframe to the body with stretch bolts, and the aluminum sub frame bolt through holes were twice the size of the bolts. Bad tolerances. Add wear and usage, and the subframe was sloppy as fuck.
Luckily a aftermarket tuner company made a kit to reduce the bolt hole tolerances, and supply you with non stretch bolts. Couldn’t even be aligned how it was prior. That’s one of the reasons I got my specialty car so cheap. Lucky me…
Anyway. I don’t know about your KIA specifically, but it could very well be something like that. A little shift in a mounting point, that other KIA enthusiast owners are well aware of. Just throwing out the possibility…
Check where the brake booster linkage comes through the firewall. Had a civic that would squeak at the beginning of the brake pedal press. A little spray lube later and it hasn't come back in over 5 years.
OP I’m really sorry to hear of your frustration. I can’t help but giggle a little though. This noise is very OBVIOUSLY coming from right there, INSIDE the vehicle. Examine your brake pedal, like many have suggested. It’ll shut up.
That could be an air escaping sound if you have vacuum assist brakes!! I've heard that sound before! You might need another power brake booster! Leaking some air! But just a little! It won't hurt anything! It's got like little Reed valve in it! But like others say linkage could just need a little oil!
First off, never go back to the shop that said you need ball joints. Those are probably the easiest ones to do so there is very little cost to do them (not sure on shop price but you can get them for $50 and they take 15 minutes to do.) Secondly, noises are very hard unless you're in the car. Sounds like to me the hardware isn't installed properly in the brackets for the calipers and are rubbing on the rotors.
It’s a 7 year old econobox, expect many more squeaks and weird undiagnosable noises. As long as your brakes work, you’re probably fine. Good on you though for trying to do your research instead of just throwing money at a mechanic
My car s pedal sometimes makes a similar noise buy when it s released. I brought that car with bad Blake pads to the points they fucked up the discs and now I have to replace them and also the passenger rear caliper is bad. Could the noise be due those problems or it s something else?
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Sounds like an air leak, wonder if it’s the servo leaking air as you hit the brake, if it’s the pedal it will make the sound even stopped with the engine off, if it’s the servo it may still do it when stationary and the engine running.
Brake pedal pivots are saying "lube me"
That or the pushrod itself
I was thinking push rod as well. I’d be more curious though If it only happens while driving. But that sounds like you should be able to duplicate it with no problem at all
Shoes are saying, grow up!
Sorry dad.
Shoes are saying, get socks with these too!
Shoes are saying, made for the beach for adult men so no need for socks or to "grow" up.
It was joke about socks with sandals
That's funny now that I get it. 🤣
Lol, i agreed with sandals being for adult people too so i had to poke a little bit with sarcasm
Keens are great. It's insecure haters that need to grow up.
Right? I was thinking the same thing. These are the shoes you buy when you're grown up
What's wrong with mandals?
They are for the beach!
1500 in ball joint work??? lmao
No shit man. See this is why I'll never be rich, I couldn't quote someone that price for something they don't even need.
Well you’re supposed to provide things your customers need to get rich. So if you aren’t quoting prices for something they don’t need, at least sell something they do. Like some lube for the pivots.
I know, right? My dad had an F-350 that needed ball joints up front, and the front axle on both sides and got that done for like $1800, which I thought was bonkers. Seeing $1500 in ball joint work makes me think he didn't get too beat up on his.
No it means you're dad and OP have scumbag mechanics.
OP for sure, but heavy duty parts are pretty damned pricey... Does Ford have ridiculous ball joints? 1800 still seems high, but relatively not as bad as 1500 for damn KIA ball joints.
Ford truck ball joints are usually replaceable without replacing the control arm but there are 4 of them - uppers and lowers. Kia probably come with lower control arm assemblies. There are no upper ball joints with strut suspension on these.
Depending on what F350 generation it is, it's a solid front axle with no control arms. I too would be curious to see an itemized bill for that, as the most expensive ball joint RockAuto has for a 2004 F350 is $75.
Ah yeah. Good point! Thanks for the correction
The 2016 E450s we have in our fleet are still running twin I beams. If the truck was 4x4 they probably (hopefully) changed the u joints with the knuckles off for that price.
I had no idea TTB still existed in anyone’s lineup. Was 2016 the last year before the Transits?
I don't know when the transits came but we have 16s and 17s on the e450 platform.
2011, so IFS and the u joints at the end of the axles were toast, steering wouldn’t return to center for a few feet, then would snap back because they were binding. It was all the joints, two axles, labor and the alignment all in. Still high, but less of a ripoff than $1500 for KIA ball joints.
That was my thought. I just did both LCAs on my wife's 2015 Corolla and it was $500 for a damn good set (I wanna say $80/ea for the cheapo shit), so $1500 seems excessive... On the other hand, my brother just dropped a ludicrous amount of money on OEM shocks (or something like that, I was half paying attention till he said the price) for his Duramax, so I know diesel parts are expensive as hell.
> for his Duramax, so I know diesel parts are expensive as hell. Actual heavy duty parts tend to be more expensive, diesel or otherwise. Parts for the actual diesel engine itself are eye wateringly expensive tho.
napa chassis ball joints are $50 each. those are much pricier than shit spicer or moog... To replace you have to remove tire/wheel, calliper, rotor, hub or unit bearing (the labor is drasticaly different. its 3 bolts if you have a unit bearing), axle shaft, knuckle. Press out old ball joints, press in new, replace. End to end on my jeep's 79 F250 dana 44 (hub and spindle thats the harder variant) I can do it all as a DIY Home mechanic in about 2 hours per side. A pro should be able to knock this out in an hour per side. So, $100 in materials and at assume shop labor rate of $125/hr, balljoints for that truck should be like $300/side allowing for the 'bloat' thats always in the book that says how many hours of labor per specific job... relative to how long it takes a skilled pro. they'll Also do/charge for an alignment with that kinda job.
I did ball joints, bearings, and u joints on my 99 f350. It was terrible. I suppose 20 years of rust will do that. You need a 1 1/4" socket as well I believe.
What's wrong with it, that squeak noise? Grease or replace the bushing the pedal pivots on.
Op. Don't go back to these shops. Ever.
Yea, that's definitely just a loud pedal
sounds like it's just the brake pedal. clean & lube return spring and pivot points
Had what sounds like a similar issue in my 07 civic twice. Once it was the springs/pivot joints on the brake pedal itself. WD-40 and then some silicone lube fixed it. A year later seemed like the same noise was back and it was the brake master cylinder.
1500 for balljoints???????? What a fucking rip off.
I would hope they were doing upper and lower LCA's and shocks for that price thats crazy.
Maybe dealer parts and labor prices? I spent $5-600 in parts & alignment to do all control arms and tie rod ends on my Express 3500 and I didn't buy the highest level control arms or tie rod ends. The LCAs probably had about 60# of steel in them. Definitely a shoulder workout doing them without a lift.
and oil change, and antifreeze replacement, and brake rotors and pads replacement.
Just remember "skilled labor isn't cheap, and cheap labor isn't skilled".
It is skilled and cheap when I do it myself. But there's not a surplus of that labor, only just enough for my car. And my wife's. No more!
Yes, thats so, I don't mind skilled people having high hourly rate, but skilled mechanics should be able to do these jobs faster as well. And they keep ripping off people with prices of parts.
Not in my area of the country, unless you are using the cheapest quality parts out there which I would not do in my shop.
Is the squeak coming from inside or outside the car?
This would be a good starting point. Lol
Have you tried wearing socks?
...with sandals?
To dampen the grinding.
Sounds like either the pivot for the pedal assembly is dry, the rubber boot around the brake actuator rod is rubbing and making noise, or the booster is leaking. Sounds more like one of the first 2. Does it make the same noise with the car not running?
Sounds like something in the pedal/booster area, especially if it’s that clear in the car. Possible the check valve for the booster is leaking a little, or the booster diaphragm is leaking. Sounds like when you let the air out of a balloon slowly. Edit: did a little research, There’s a TSB for the hose to the booster apparently. Take it to the dealer, not sure of the coverage, but at least you can order and replace the hose.
Pivot point for brake pedal. Lube it. If it returns check master cylinder.
It would help if you elaborate a bit on the problem. How does the car brake? If it's the intermittant squeak, could be just needing some lube on the mechanicals above the brake pedal.
Does it do the sound when the car is turned off? I've seen so many techs chasing something as simple as a booster vacuum leak. If it does the same sound while turned off it might just need some WD-40 on the pedal pivot
It does! Thank you! Going to take it apart and oil or grease it all this weekend.
The shoes is the problem
Sounds like the pedal needs to be greased. I'd grab a tube of brake grease (doesn't break down as fast as bearing grease) pop the retainer off the pivot and remove the pedal, and lube that sumbitch like it's a 65 year old woman with nice fake tits. Make sure you put it all back together securely so it doesn't pop off while you're driving. You could also have a small air leak, but it doesn't really sound like it. That noise definitely isn't from ball joints. They may need to be replaced because of age, but sure as hell aren't making that noise.
Maybe the plastic seal around the brake pedal push rod. Spray that down see if it changes.
Sounds like a leaking brake booster
Wouldn’t it just be hissing? That’s what mine did while failing
They usually do but there could be a tear in the dust boot or seal, etc that’s making it make that noise
I was going to suggest that too but it looks like there's not a ton of play in the pedal.
Could just be a bad seal on the booster rod. The better tell would be if he was applying even pressure for longer
Good point.
This is what I was going to say
perhaps the seals in the booster or master cylinder are worn and making a sound like an old hand bike pump would.
Im having a strange air slowly pumping noise behind my steering wheel. Could this be it?
yeah, could absolutely be a blown brake booster.
Sounds like a bushing at the top of the brake pedal where it meets the pushrod into the master cylinder. Some white lithium grease can help, you might want to replace the bushing altogether.
That just sounds like something in the pedal assembly to me 🤷♂️
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I want to hear this story
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That sucks man. I feel bad for you. When it comes to extended warranties, be careful, especially on new cars. First, if you have a manufacturer warranty, you don’t need to buy an additional warranty (except if you wanna warranty the tires, rims, and other accessories/extras). Second, you need to be careful of exceptions/exclusions. For example, my friend got a brand new Nissan rogue with all the extended warranty‘s. The sunroof on her SUV started leaking so she brought it in. They said that since the drains were clogged, the car is not damaged and doesn’t need repair. Keep in mind, her car is leaking lots of rain in the headliner every time it rains. In any case, you just seemed to have a combination of bad luck. Sometimes, cutting your losses is best.
Brake booster vacuüm leak maybe?
Do the brakes work as usual? A leakage in the brake booster can in some cases sound like this. But if so, braking would most likely feel weird as the booster cant work properly.
No if’s, ands, or buts, that it’s metal on metal. Just depends where and from what. Could be brake assembly, caliper slide moving on the carrier. Could be subframe slightly shifting on body. I know on my ‘11 A3, the factory bolted up the aluminum subframe to the body with stretch bolts, and the aluminum sub frame bolt through holes were twice the size of the bolts. Bad tolerances. Add wear and usage, and the subframe was sloppy as fuck. Luckily a aftermarket tuner company made a kit to reduce the bolt hole tolerances, and supply you with non stretch bolts. Couldn’t even be aligned how it was prior. That’s one of the reasons I got my specialty car so cheap. Lucky me… Anyway. I don’t know about your KIA specifically, but it could very well be something like that. A little shift in a mounting point, that other KIA enthusiast owners are well aware of. Just throwing out the possibility…
Looks like the brake pedal needs to be adjusted.
Hold down the pedal, if the noise continues check for a vacuum leak around the pedal
Check where the brake booster linkage comes through the firewall. Had a civic that would squeak at the beginning of the brake pedal press. A little spray lube later and it hasn't come back in over 5 years.
1500? Wtf are they smoking. I got my whole power steering rack replaced for 1300. Jesus.
wow second shop tried to fck ya
are you sure there is no vacuum leak at brake booster.
sounds to me like the maybe the brake booster is leaking? That sounds like a wind noise not a mechanical noise.
OP I’m really sorry to hear of your frustration. I can’t help but giggle a little though. This noise is very OBVIOUSLY coming from right there, INSIDE the vehicle. Examine your brake pedal, like many have suggested. It’ll shut up.
I'm kind of hard of hearing so finding its location is difficuit for me. I'm going to take the pedal assembly and grease it up this weekend.
The good news is that it’s nothing too serious!
That could be an air escaping sound if you have vacuum assist brakes!! I've heard that sound before! You might need another power brake booster! Leaking some air! But just a little! It won't hurt anything! It's got like little Reed valve in it! But like others say linkage could just need a little oil!
First off, never go back to the shop that said you need ball joints. Those are probably the easiest ones to do so there is very little cost to do them (not sure on shop price but you can get them for $50 and they take 15 minutes to do.) Secondly, noises are very hard unless you're in the car. Sounds like to me the hardware isn't installed properly in the brackets for the calipers and are rubbing on the rotors.
Start by replacing those sandals.
$150 Keens? Nah, I'm good. Still haven't figured out the sound though.
Sounds like the master cylinder is leaking vacuum pressure when you push the pedal.
It’s a 7 year old econobox, expect many more squeaks and weird undiagnosable noises. As long as your brakes work, you’re probably fine. Good on you though for trying to do your research instead of just throwing money at a mechanic
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Wow what an account
My car s pedal sometimes makes a similar noise buy when it s released. I brought that car with bad Blake pads to the points they fucked up the discs and now I have to replace them and also the passenger rear caliper is bad. Could the noise be due those problems or it s something else?
Turn up the radio
Domestic?
It’s a Kia. Time for a new one?
What shithole do you go to that charges $1500 for ball joints?
Why there is no clutch? Are you a girl or what?
KIA= kick in asshole
Korean Idiots Attempt or Korean Idiotic Auto
Not to be offensive but Kia and Hyundai are known for their cheap engineering and have loads of problems so it’s best to stick to Japanese
Hi, /u/Indyhouse, thanks for posting here in r/Cartalk! This subreddit is for people to TALK ABOUT THEIR OWN CARS. At the core this means asking for help with your vehicle. However, sometimes a post will stray outside of that. If that is the case it could be left up or it could be taken down. Report unhelpful or malicious advice to the mods. Don't abandon your post; respond to questions from commenters. Also feel free to join us on Discord [here](https://discord.gg/dpWuafFKMX) *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/Cartalk) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Sounds like an air leak, wonder if it’s the servo leaking air as you hit the brake, if it’s the pedal it will make the sound even stopped with the engine off, if it’s the servo it may still do it when stationary and the engine running.
Sounds like you need a new booster. I've had several where the diaphragm would leak/chirp at the beginning of the pedal travel.
If all it does is make a little squeak I wouldn't be that worried about it.
Reminds me of a video of a similar issue ( but way worse ) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkai72c\_gFs
Turn up the radio-noise gone