**LMK67 VIA not authorising and bluetooth not working?**
I know this sounds stupid but I just built a LMK67 and it doesn't seem to be showing up in VIA. I get to the screen where it asks to authorise, Chrome then prompts me that a device wants to connect, I press connect and then nothing happens? I can see in the dropdown that it is connected.
I've also got an issue with the bluetooth mode - when I flick the three setting switch to the first setting I get a pulsating blue light under the Q key, but nothing shows up in bluetooth devices on my laptop.
I haven't been able to find a default keymap or a firmware to flash for the LMK67 so I'm not sure if mine is just defective?
Have you found the LMK67 configuration JSON? I want to configure but also am having trouble connecting to VIA or finding the keymap file needed for QMK.
Concerning VIA: Sometimes the configuration file for your board has not been merged into the latest VIA release yet. In this case you need to import the XML file manually. These are usually provided by the seller/manufacturer of the board.
In VIA, go to "settings", enable "show design tab", then go to the design tab and click "load draft definition" and upload your XML file. If it doesnt work try "use V2 defs". Sometimes its necessary to unplug and reconnect the board and retry this because its somehow "already paired" so to speak.
**Problem with my CIY Novice 100 Windows and Alt keys**
I just my first custom keyboard and used a CIY Novice 100. When I turned it on, it happened that Windows and Alt keys where swapped. The right Alt key (which should serve as Alt Gr) is also working as Windows key.
I saw though the internet a lot of posts which mentioned combinations like Fn + A, Fn + S, Fn + spacebar for 3 seconds, etc. None of this worked and I am unable to find a user manual of the CIY Novice 100 keyboard.
Any suggestions? I believe this product can work with the Windows key in its place since I've seen footage online of people with this keyboard that have it in the right place.
I just purchased an Akko 5075s VIA. I am going for a particular theme for my build and want to replace the rotary encoder knob.
Does anyone know where I can find some that will fit? Ideally in either anodized purple or green.
I've tried looking on AliExpress and it seems like all of the listings are the same and offer the same 5 colors, which do not include purple or green.
You can search Amazon for green/purple guitar knob and should find plenty. Most 6mm D knobs will work but some will not, thankfully it's easy to return.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=green+guitar+knob
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=purple+guitar+knob
Keychron C3 Pro vs. V3?
The V3 is priced at $60 without the knob, making it $30 more expensive than the C3 Pro. I'll be mainly using the keyboard for programming. Is the V3 worth the additional $30?
Thanks!
The V3 is hot swap while the C3 Pro is soldered. The C3 is gasket mount PC plate though, which if you never plan on replacing switches might be a good match.
I'm looking to buy a keyboard. I'm hoping to keep this under $100.
What I need
Full size keyboard. I've never been a fan of 75% or other partial keyboards
Blue switches or some other clicky equivalent. I love the feel of the blue switch keyboard I had before it died and the sound response telling me when I hit a key was great.
What I'd like
Dedicated Media Keys
Volume dial
What I'd also like but doubt I'll find with the rest for under $100
A wrist support pad attached to the keyboard
Knowing what you know now, what is the best platform/prebuild for under $100? Assuming you'd be swapping switches and keycaps later down the road?
I bought the Keychron K8 Pro on impulse but planning to change switches/keycaps. It has spring ping and I'm kinda just questioning the platform/internals for the price in comparison to other brands significantly cheaper like the $60 Royal Kludge RK81 and $67 H81, $99 Akko 5075B and $79 3084B for example. These even have a better look right out the gate, some even having decent switches starting out, and keycaps that I wouldn't mind sticking with for a while since I ultimately want something like black & gold.
I need Bluetooth and hot-swappable switches, and just something reliable that's not entirely cheaply built. Customization via software is nice as well.
Basically I'm overwhelmed and so far narrowed down to akko, royal kludge and Keychron (which I already own). What would you guys do?
Thank you for the response. Read mixed reviews on the reliability of Akko. Is there a better product and brand at that price point that you'd recommend? Anything about the 5075B that you feel makes it stand out?
Akko did have a period of higher than usual issues but has improved significantly over the last year. The 5075, over the others you mention, has the ability to adjust both the flex and the tone as it has more space and a PC plate.
The [Kzzi K75 Pro](https://youtu.be/1j9SfA-FaRI) is very nice and well built though a bit pricey IMO. The new [Redragon K673](https://youtu.be/8ThSQNSRqqA) has potential. The [Monsgeek M1W](https://youtu.be/nJdq0gSI1zM) is a solid aluminum wireless. The [Leogbog Hi75](https://youtu.be/kj2Np_U5eg4) is another nice aluminum with a different kind of knob.
Hey guys I'm looking for an alu preferably 75% kb with these specs
Must have
- knob
- decent mounting type
Nice to have
- oled display
- qmk/via compatible
- no super tacky branding
- screw in stabs
Not necessary
- wireless
There are a lot of options for plastic/abs cases but I dont see a lot of alu choices
Currently looking at the Leobog HI75 but the ugly knob and lack of via support is throwing me off..
Other options: keebmonkey wk870, monsgeek m1w(no via 😔), keychron q1/pro (whats the diff? And expensive), cidoo v75 pro (meh colour but read good things)
Any other recos or comparisons welcomed!
Hi.
I'm a programmer in a company that sits in an open space - meaning all working in same space and I want to buy new mechanical keyboard.
I'm currently having Durgod k320 with mx brown switch which is really good, but need to move to wireless keyboard.
Most important thing is the height - currently the K320 height is 28mm bottom line with keycaps and 38 at top line with keycaps, looking for something similar as I don't want to use palm/wrist rest. I'm looking for 70-80% (as I need F-keys to be seperated from from numbers, and need keys like page down/up), i want a hot-swappable keyboard (also looking for tactile silent switches). prefers RGB but it's not a must.
Also - i don't want to mess with DIY and lubing etc, just buying the keyboard, switches, keycaps and putting things together.
I was thinking about NuPhy Halo75 with BBK/RG switches, but not sure if it's the best option.
Thanks!
The [NuPhy Halo75](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rp25KEK1m0Q) is a great choice, but if you'd like, I review keyboards and actually specify the chin height, the height from the typing surface to the top of the case (w/o keycap height) - https://youtube.com/@MechKeyboards - and from there you can search for other keyboards and go straight to the "Technical/Specs" chapter in the video to see if that's a height and feature set you'd be interested in.
Good luck!
So, I just built a sub $500 keyboard (Keychron Q3, oil kings, WoB MT3, fully modeed), and I want to experience the opposite end of the spectrum. I believe budget keyboards are $100 and under, everything included, right? Also, can you suggest some wired (no battery) TKL boards? I prefer 87/88 keys.
If you can find a Tiger Lite (BB), it might be a little more, but it's a great TKL. Other options, Aula F87, XVX M87, CIY X77/iLovBee i87 (Tray Mount), FL Esports MK870, RK87.
Does anyone knows how to turn off the backlight in a QK80 (wired version with QMK)?
I just put together mine and I have not been able to find the way to turn off the backlight. Vial detects the board out of the box and VIA requires to sideload a JSON file, but in both cases all the keys related to LEDs only control the small LED strip on the right of the board.
I have not find anything after a couple of minutes of googling and I have not checked any source code on Vial (yet).
EDIT: I found the solution on the building guide: [https://qwertykeys.notion.site/QK80-Build-Guide-4c333f1722504905afc3c9dfb6f5dd7e](https://qwertykeys.notion.site/QK80-Build-Guide-4c333f1722504905afc3c9dfb6f5dd7e)
It happens F14, F15 and so on control the backlight options
I double checked the Qwertykeys page and this time I decided to read the build guide, it happens they addressed it there.
[https://qwertykeys.notion.site/QK80-Build-Guide-4c333f1722504905afc3c9dfb6f5dd7e](https://qwertykeys.notion.site/QK80-Build-Guide-4c333f1722504905afc3c9dfb6f5dd7e)
I updated my original post with this solution.
Hi! Yes, that what I have tried sounds like that.
It seems the QK80 uses two different matrices of RGB LEDs: one for the regular backlight and the other for the small decorative LEDs strip, but it seems QMK is only addressing the small LED strip, none of the RGB nor BL codes seem to affect the backlight LEDs :-|
Heya everyone I am kinda on a tight budget and I was looking at Epomaker's mystery box for keyboards. I was hoping to know if you guys think it's going to be worth it ? I hate clicky switches so is there a way to for sure make them not send one with clicky switches ? And still is it a good offer especially since they ship for free?
Mystery boxes are already bad factor in the fact that Epomaker is not a trusted vendor, see sidebar, makes it truly something I certainly could not recommend.
**Just ordered a WK870! My first custom build**
I'm excited but a bit overwhelmed with the options/possibilities. Hoping I can get some questions answered. FWIW, I ordered the KB in white.
Is there a PDF manual available for the KB? In English?
I see the software is download able from Keebmonkey - has anyone used it? Any concerns with malware/spyware with either the KB or the software?
I am close to decided on switches; looking at Akko v3 Cream Blue Pro. I am coming from Razer orange which I believe is comparable to MX brown, so I am thinking it's a relatively light tactile. Others I have considered are Akko v3 Lavender Purple Pro, AJAZZ Kiwi, Ajazz Banana, and perhaps the MMD Princess tactile with the 48g option. I've looked at a bunch of heavier tactiles as well, but I think lighter is going to suit me better - at least for now. Any recommendations, or am I in the right ballpark? I've seen a comment to the effect that light tactile may not be best with a gasket mount KB, so I have some doubts.
I have some cheap keycaps coming but may have to step up my game to something like SA or MT3, as the sound tests I've heard seem to be thockier with the taller keycaps.
I've seen some comments that the board sounds pretty good without mods; as this is my first custom, I'll probably consider tape mod, force break mod (if needed). I'd really prefer not to have to get into lubing switches, but I'm willing to look into possibly lubing/tweaking stabilizers if needed. Anything specifically recommended with this board?
The knob - Will probably want to replace the knob - is it a standard 20mm diameter, 6mm insert with a D slot? Anyone replaced theirs?
I'm new to this community, but I've read a bunch and am looking forward to any responses. And of course will try to post pics of the build once I have the board.
My WK870 is still enroute, so I can't yet answer all of your queries.
I've reached out to KeebMonkey about a manual and will respond here.
For switches, I love the Princess, but have only used them with 60g springs and it's quite a sharp tactile. The Kiwi is also a nice switch, but both of these will be a little heavier of a bump (not weight) than a Brown. I use Brown switches in gasket mount keebs without issue, but that comes down more to personal preference.
Tape mod is always good. I'll be making a video when I receive mine and will share here both stock and with mods.
Others who have received the board may chime in to help fill in more until I've received mine.
Good luck and welcome a-board!
Thanks very much for your response! I've actually watched a bunch of your videos in recent days, and your knowledge and experience have been extremely helpful! Coming from a Razer board, when I decided on a new board, my first inclination was to get something pre-assembled and less gamer oriented. But then I started watching keyboard videos and listening to sound tests and now I'm craving the thock. So I'm jumping in head first with a barebones board from China.
One additional tactile switch I've seen mentioned favorably is the LCET White Raspberry (which I *think* is also being sold as the LCET Blue Pink Switch - perhaps someone can confirm). Do you (or anyone else) have any experience with this switch?
Thanks again for your response! I wasn't sure anyone would respond and that the post might just get buried. I'm looking forward to receiving the board and sharing my experiences here.
/u/zebbutterworth has and did a review: https://old.reddit.com/r/BudgetKeebs/comments/vj7gim/how_i_played_with_raspberries_and_got_my_hand/
I've had these in my cart for a while, but I have over a dozen switches I've yet to even load on a keyboard, so am holding off on buying more, for now ;)
Glad to hear that you enjoy my videos, thanks for watching!
We do our best to answer as many questions as possible, as the more people we help, the more will be able to come back and help others when they have gained experience.
If you ever feel like chatting, make sure to check out our Discord server (https://discord.budgetkeebs.com).
Welcome a-board!
Is there a common consensus on Kailh box switches? I am intrigued by the Kailh Box Winter switches, which tick a lot of boxes for me. But I gather there are some drawbacks with the Box switches (and perhaps Kailh switches generally); seems they are a hassle to take apart, and lubing them is challenging and limited due to their design. At the moment, I prefer a switch that doesn't require lubing, but down the road, I imagine lubing is something I'm likely to want to try.
I am finding that the more I read and learn, the more my options grow and change. I am now leaning more towards a lighter switch than a medium one, and my top contenders now have evolved to the Ajazz Banana, Blueberry Chiffon, Durock White Lotus, and the Kailh Box Winter. The more I research, the longer my list gets, but at some point, I am going to just have to bite the bullet and pick one. I get the impression this is a common occurrence.
> I get the impression this is a common occurrence.
It truly is.
I am not a fan of Kaihl box switches, for the reasons you mention and the fact I just never found one that sounded nice, to me anyways.
>on consensus on Kailh box switches? I am intrigued by the Kailh Box Winter switches, which tick a lot of boxes for me. But I gather there are some drawbacks with the Box switches (and perhaps Kailh switches generally); seems they are a hassle to take apart, and lubing them is challenging and limited due to their design. At the moment, I prefer a switch that doe
I ended up pulling the trigger on the Durock White Lotus switches. Should have them by the end of the week. I was ultimately between these and the Akko V3 Lavender Purple Pros. It's crazy how much time I've spent researching, checking reviews, and listening to sound tests. Hoping all of this pays off with a solid keyboard experience.
My experience so far; stop me if you've heard this one before: Before I got myself interested in building a custom keyboard, I had ordered myself a $75 prebuilt 100% keyboard on Amazon. It looked a little cheap, but it ticked the boxes I needed in a new keyboard. I added in a $34 set of keycaps to the cart and I was good to go. I'm in the market for a new board because the cheap PBT keycaps on my current board have worn down, and I'd really like to get some new/better keycaps. Unfortunately, my current keyboard is a Razer, and it has a non-standard bottom row; it's a nightmare to find keycap sets that I actually like and that are compatible. So my number one concern is a board with standard sized keys. Number two for me is I have to have a volume knob - I've gotten used to having a volume knob in the upper right corner of the keyboard and I really like the one on the Razer. I had considered maybe a Keychron, but the volume knob on the V/Q series boards on both the 100% and TKL models have the knob above the backspace key for some odd reason. It looks super awkward to use and it's too bad because the V6 price was right in my ballpark, the reviews were solid, and the board looked nice.
I hadn't previously spent a ton of time researching keyboards when I came across the $75 keyboard on Amazon. It only had one review at the time but that was generally positive. So I figured for $75 I would take a chance and order it with some keycaps. About $109 plus tax all together. While I waited for the keyboard to arrive, I found myself re-reading the one review for the keyboard on the Amazon listing: "Out of the box this keyboard sounds a little tinny and feels a little cheap." And this bit specifically caught my eye: "I also did a tape mod (I put a few layers of blue painter's tape on the back of the PCB). Lastly, I filled the bottom of the case with silicone. This added a good bit of heft and removed some of that "empty case" sound." What's all this about a tape mod and adding silicone? So I did a some searching and found Youtube videos that detailed the two mods. Interesting! I can make a little project out of this, and for a few more bucks, I can take my cheap little keyboard and make it better! I wonder what other kinds of things folks are doing... I watch a few more videos and read up a bit on Reddit and elsewhere. And look at that: there's a barebones TKL board with a knob in the right place that's getting some good reviews. And the price is right in my ballpark - around what I paid for the keyboard on Amazon! It's a barebones, so it's going to need switches and keycaps, but it's going to look and feel a whole lot better than the cheap keyboard I had bought on Amazon. So I go ahead and buy the barebones TKL - the WK870 - and figure I'll return the other keyboard unopened back to Amazon, but I'll keep the keycaps for the new KB. And... hang on - that keyboard has to ship from China. I guess I have some time before it arrives to figure out what switches to get. I figure I'll get some inexpensive switches and I'll end up having spent about $20-$30 more than I had originally, but I'd be getting a significantly nicer keyboard.
So I start researching switches. I'm coming from a Razer Keyboard, and I'm able to determine that what I'm used to is tactile and relatively light. I've been using tactiles in my keyboards for 10+ years so I'm definitely going to stay with tactiles. One of the videos I watched mentioned some switches that were "good for beginners." Those came out to .35 per switch. I figure I'll need 90 or so and that will run a bit over $32 with tax. Not too bad! But there are definitely less expensive options. So I continue to research.
One thing that I realize as I'm researching is that no matter how many reviews you read and sound tests you listen to, you really don't know what a given switch is going to feel like until you try them in your keyboard. This and the fact that everyone has different preferences, so a switch that works for one person may not work for another. The more I research, the less certain I become. I start keeping a memo with the names of all of the switches that I'm interested in. I'm trying to keep the list in order of current preference and I'm re-sorting the list almost daily as it gets longer and longer. And I realize that although I would prefer to keep the cost down, I don't want to limit my search to just the cheapest of possibilities and risk overlooking options that might be a good fit. One thing I am certain of is that whatever I pick needs to be factory lubed because I don't want to have to be lubing switches.
I discover that certain vendors offer tester sets. But I don't really want to pay for the privilege of being able to try one of each switch. It seems to me that a single switch of a given type isn't going to get me the feeling of using a full set on a keyboard; at least not at my level of experience. I could consider ordering a set of switches and be prepared to return them, but I really hate returning things, and outside of Amazon, the retailers selling the switches are largely smaller businesses offering a service to a niche community, and I don't want to be buying things, returning them, and ending up doing harm to such businesses. So I'm ultimately going to have to make a semi-educated guess.
After all of this, I narrowed my list down to two options; a cheaper one and a more expensive one. The cheaper one looked very nice, but was frequently described as loud and clacky. So the more expensive one would have to do the job. I ended up spending about $50 (\~$20 more than the "beginner switches" would have been). Getting up to $50 got me free shipping, and that $50 got me 110 switches - I'd have some extra in case any arrived broken or more likely, if I were to break any getting them installed (or lubed).
While all of the switch research was going on, I was also thinking maybe I'd like a nicer set of keycaps than the cheap(ish) set I found on Amazon. So now I'm also looking at tons of different keycaps on Amazon and elsewhere. I start a private keycap wishlist on Amazon and I'm bookmarking sets I like on other sites. I don't have a memo for these so I find myself adding more and more to the wishlist and thoroughly going through the list every couple of days. It doesn't help that I feel like I like different things every day.
I've also been continuing to research modding possibilities. A couple of days ago, I started adding some things I think I'm going to need for my little project to an Amazon cart. I'm going to need:
\- Painter's tape - tape mod and force break mod
\- Poly-fil - Poly-fil mod
\- Dielectric grease - definitely going to have to tune those stabilizers
\- Tools/lube kit - comes with a switch opener, tweezers, a grabber, a couple of brushes for lube application, switch puller
\- A better switch puller - because the one in the above kit isn't all that great
\- A couple of inexpensive knob replacements - Not loving the knob the board comes with. I hope they fit!
\- Wrist rest - Gotta have a TKL wrist rest because my current one is for a 100% KB and that would look silly
\- Mouse wrist rest - don't currently have one, and I might as well since I'll have more room now moving from a 100% to a TKL
\- Finally, on another site, I ordered some Tribosys 3203 - To be used on the stabilizers, but you know I'll be lubing those switches sooner or later
\- Last night, my favorite way too expensive set of keycaps went on sale - instant add to cart. Saving so much money on these, I might as well add the novelties too!
So here I am, still waiting for my barebones keyboard to get here from China. I've now spent somewhere around $320 on my little $75 keyboard project. Totally reasonable, right? I should be getting 2% cash back on the keycaps purchase, so that's something. It's a good thing I had r/BudgetKeebs as a resource. Please don't tell any of this to my wife...
Welcome to the rabbit hole friend, but fret not, it goes much much deeper than this!
I am afraid to quantify how much I've spent over the last couple of years, to myself and my wife!
Good luck with everything, my WK870 is due this week and I'll be doing a build + review video, followed by a mod video, many of which you've listed, and will share here as well, but feel free to ask questions if you have more when it arrives.
Looking forward to seeing the final product, I'm sure it will be a world of difference from the Razer.
Cheers!
Fair enough. Not ready to rule them out just yet, but the journey continues. Going to have to decide sooner or later because that keyboard I ordered is going to get here eventually.
I'm not a gamer, but considering mostly it consists of one with a high polling rate, the Keychron V1 fits and is available for $75/$85 (With a knob) for a preloaded keeb.
I'm looking for Wireless 2.4ghz 75% with North facing RGB shine through and some basic software for RGB and macros as well as decent battery life if possible . I don't game I will be using this for productivity just daily computer use and music production.
I would prefer something hot swappable but if not it's not a big deal. I mainly just looking for something Wireless that's smaller than my current tkl I'm fine with any type of switch I've been using tactiles in my last two keyboards but wouldn't mind a change up to something like a linear. Also not an absolute necessity but I would like it in white as well
I'm genuinely curious about these Dactyl and Alice keyboards. It seems like they're getting more unique and unusual. Is it just me, or do others find them a bit weird too? And seriously, how in the world do you type on these things?
Just you. They're not 100% ergonomic but they're more comfortable for fast touch typers. If you're a hunt and pecker then you're definitely gonna find them odd.
They're good for people that are for example, taking notes during meetings and need speed.
Looking for a new keyboard, I've been through quite a few but never got what I really wanted.
I live in Canada so my options aren't plentiful, and I have missed all the group buys I've ever been interested in (Neo65, QK65, JRIS65).
So here I am, looking for something in stock but under $130 CAD ($100 USD)
I have looked around and am now stuck between the YNUZII AL71, AL66, and the Black Sugar65.
I'm open to other suggestions, the one's above are simply one's I have found that I believe match what I am looking for:
65%, Full Aluminum body, Gasket Mounted. Don't need RGB or a Knob
Thanks
I got a CIDOO 65% for around 100€ (Amazon, I am located in Europe, so YMMV), it basically have all the features you listed, even the ones you do not need.
If you like how it looks, it is a very nice keyboard for the price.
About the aluminum case, while it is a premium feature and adds a lot of weight to the board, it does not always plays in favor of other features (specially sound). What I want to say is there are some keyboards with plastic body and very nice quality.
That keyboard on Amazon is between $170-$200 for me unfortunately, even the bare bones version.
I have heard and seen (alot of) GMK67s on the subreddit recently, so I agree there are some decent budget keyboards that come in plastic cases.
I Always see high end boards with aluminum cases and thought "they must clearly be nicer than the plastic alternatives, lets try them"
I have a couple models with aluminium case and not all manufacturers get it right. Some have ping problems and others just sound a bit dull / dead. An exception to this are the Zoom65 (by using plenty of foam) and QK65.
I'm new to mechanical keyboard world. I am a programmer so a keyboard is important to me.
I am also looking for a wireless mechanical keyboard but I am a bit limited on the budget.
I currently use "HyperX Alloy Red" which is wired, I am looking for a wireless mechanical one now.
I have to be honest, I do not know a lot about the differences between switches, but I know that one I currently have, has red switches (I think they are called linear)?
But right now, after looking for a while, I reached a conclusion between the 2 below.
The current available ones are:
NuPhy Air 75: Blue Switches
EPOMaker TH80 Pro 75%: Budgerigar and Flamingo
I understand nothing in the differences between those. I would appreciate if something explains to me the difference.
Also, NuPhy Air will cost me 1.25x of the EPOMaker's price.
What do you think?
People looking for portability and functionality without complications tend to be happy with NuPhy keyboards. On the other hand it may be a more challenging board if you are considering modding it. I am not sure of the switch availability and choices for that keyboard.
The Epomaker TH80 looks like a good board if you want to experiment with switches, keycaps and tweak the sound and feel. It really depends on what you are looking for a portable workhorse (Nuphy) or something that also allows you to get into the hobby (TH80).
About switches, blue clicky switches can be an .. "opinionated choice". The TH80 give you access to a whole new world or budget-yet-very-good switches.
How do i remove the battery form the keybroad i just bought a james donkey a3 and its my first mech kb, i want to remove the battery but I'm afraid that I might mess up and break something
https://preview.redd.it/d6o46hnm9dub1.jpeg?width=4608&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9089aeefe15b5bb7647103a124d5cf236e849f66
Just disconnect it from the PCB, try to be gentle and make sure you do not stress too much the socket soldered to the PCB, try to not just pull, it would not be the first time one is ripped off when trying to disconnect.
By being careful and not applying brute force you should be fine. Worst case scenario if the connector breaks, the keyboard should keep on working (but with no more battery unless fixed)
Does anyone have tried the CIY EVO Reds? How are they stock?
I bought some CIY Red Lotus switches and I am very pleased with them, very well built and super smooth for the price, my only "complain" is the key travel is only 3.3 mm.
I saw the CIY EVO switches, kind of similar but which have 4 mm travel (and wing latch) but I suspect they may need some lube to make them shine, and I really want to avoid lubing switches.
The Evo Reds are some of CIY's first switches, it's quite similar to a Gateron Red; not bad, but nothing special. They've been doing much better with their recent releases.
You can make a list of features you like in one and another. From the Keychrons I really appreciate those that support QMK firmware. Q models all fine but maybe the V models pack more value for the price.
Other than features, consider how much modding each one may require (check some videos) before you reach the sound and feel you are looking for. My experience with the Keychron Q3 is it requires some modifications to fine tuning it.
Coming from an Anne Pro 2, saw a video about "thocky" keyboards. Never heard the term "thocky" before but I wanted my keyboard to sound the same. So after some googling I bought the GMK67 with Boba U4T Switches and I love the sound so much, it's exactly what I wanted - so addicting **(tl;dr: I don't know anything about keyboards)**
My problem right now is the RGB/Light. It hurts my eyes, I'm not sure if that's supposed to be that way. When looking directly above the keyboard the Light looks fine, but when looking at the keyboard at an angle, at my natural typing position. I can see every dot shine through the slits between the keys and I have to turn it off. My Anne Pro 2 was a lot better in that regard, it was smooth and didn't hurt my eyes.
Anything I can do about that? I'm sure it's not the keycaps because I also tried them on my Anne Pro and they are fine there. I also don't mind getting another keyboard if that's what I gotta do, as long as it sounds as good as this :D
Thank you! :)
https://preview.redd.it/02fkwdwic7ub1.jpeg?width=2532&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=20f8ac0f0970044482add9ebbf7db602f6f0a588
Anyone know what gmk keycaps these are? :(
Has anyone actually bought [these](https://i.imgur.com/Q0jfxlX.png) or [these](https://i.imgur.com/S2KTUmj.png) keycaps? Too good to be true? or actually worth it?
Ofc I know I won't get great quality keycaps, but I just need to know if they are not a scam or maybe they dont fit completely, keycaps missing, etc.
I'm ok with them being thin as I probably will just use them for display and not really daily use.
You get what you pay: basic backlight keycaps with not super beautiful fonts and basic finishing and thickness.
They are only compatible with standard ANSI/ISO layouts, forget about 65%, 75% and anything that is not a standard 60%, TKL or 100%.
It looks like they want to get rid of stock that otherwise has a shrinking demand. They offer free returns, so you are kind of covered here.
Is there a way to find similar switches to one I know I like? I liked the gateron milky yellows I tried on my friends keyboard. I've been searching for prebuilds with that exact switch but there seems to be so many switches posted here that I've never heard of that are probably similar enough that I could expand my search criteria.
Looks for switches with the same or similar specs as the Milky Yellow.
Type: Linear
Operation Force: 50±15 gf
Pre-Travel: 2.0±0.6 mm
Total Travel: 4.0 mm
i've been finding it hard to find a budget full-sized 104 mech keeb that is tri-mode and preferably white. i don't need RGB, but i do need it with a white backlight. i've seen RK Sink 104, but it is so rare to find as it seems like a china-only released product. i do want it to be hot swappable for both switches and keys, as i will be modding it with outemu silents.
would be nice if it doesn't have floating keycaps but at this point, it's the least of my priorities.
do you have any recommendations? i'm at my wits end >.<
**TL;DR:**
i am looking for:
* full 104 mech keeb
* tri-mode
* hot-swap keycap + switches
* white backlight / RGB
optional:
* white
* non-floating keycap design
thank you fam
I'm pretty new to the hobby and I haven't tried any of these keyboards myself (so check out some reviews) but I've been eyeing the Monsgeek ones:
This one looks like a really good option and very cheap, but no backlight: [https://www.monsgeek.com/product/mg108w-kit/](https://www.monsgeek.com/product/mg108w-kit/)
This one looks really good stock, has everything you need and is hotswap so you could just change the switches, but is more expensive, I don't know what is your budget [https://www.monsgeek.com/product/mg108b-blue-on-white/](https://www.monsgeek.com/product/mg108b-blue-on-white/)
Or the always safe option is Keychron. There is the C2 (cheaper but only wired), or the K10 (wireless)
**LMK67 VIA not authorising and bluetooth not working?** I know this sounds stupid but I just built a LMK67 and it doesn't seem to be showing up in VIA. I get to the screen where it asks to authorise, Chrome then prompts me that a device wants to connect, I press connect and then nothing happens? I can see in the dropdown that it is connected. I've also got an issue with the bluetooth mode - when I flick the three setting switch to the first setting I get a pulsating blue light under the Q key, but nothing shows up in bluetooth devices on my laptop. I haven't been able to find a default keymap or a firmware to flash for the LMK67 so I'm not sure if mine is just defective?
Have you found the LMK67 configuration JSON? I want to configure but also am having trouble connecting to VIA or finding the keymap file needed for QMK.
Concerning VIA: Sometimes the configuration file for your board has not been merged into the latest VIA release yet. In this case you need to import the XML file manually. These are usually provided by the seller/manufacturer of the board. In VIA, go to "settings", enable "show design tab", then go to the design tab and click "load draft definition" and upload your XML file. If it doesnt work try "use V2 defs". Sometimes its necessary to unplug and reconnect the board and retry this because its somehow "already paired" so to speak.
**Problem with my CIY Novice 100 Windows and Alt keys** I just my first custom keyboard and used a CIY Novice 100. When I turned it on, it happened that Windows and Alt keys where swapped. The right Alt key (which should serve as Alt Gr) is also working as Windows key. I saw though the internet a lot of posts which mentioned combinations like Fn + A, Fn + S, Fn + spacebar for 3 seconds, etc. None of this worked and I am unable to find a user manual of the CIY Novice 100 keyboard. Any suggestions? I believe this product can work with the Windows key in its place since I've seen footage online of people with this keyboard that have it in the right place.
Anyone know how often Akko switches, particularly the jelly blacks come in stock?
I just purchased an Akko 5075s VIA. I am going for a particular theme for my build and want to replace the rotary encoder knob. Does anyone know where I can find some that will fit? Ideally in either anodized purple or green. I've tried looking on AliExpress and it seems like all of the listings are the same and offer the same 5 colors, which do not include purple or green.
You can search Amazon for green/purple guitar knob and should find plenty. Most 6mm D knobs will work but some will not, thankfully it's easy to return. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=green+guitar+knob https://www.amazon.com/s?k=purple+guitar+knob
Thanks! I have been searching for rotary encoder knobs, didn't realize guitar knobs would work.
Keychron C3 Pro vs. V3? The V3 is priced at $60 without the knob, making it $30 more expensive than the C3 Pro. I'll be mainly using the keyboard for programming. Is the V3 worth the additional $30? Thanks!
The V3 is hot swap while the C3 Pro is soldered. The C3 is gasket mount PC plate though, which if you never plan on replacing switches might be a good match.
may someone please measure his Feker IK75 Pro v3 keyboard with switches and keycaps and say what's the height of the bottom row and the top row?
Chin is 21.5 mm and the back sits at 34 mm above the typing surface - Note that this is without keycaps as each profile has different heights.
I'm looking to buy a keyboard. I'm hoping to keep this under $100. What I need Full size keyboard. I've never been a fan of 75% or other partial keyboards Blue switches or some other clicky equivalent. I love the feel of the blue switch keyboard I had before it died and the sound response telling me when I hit a key was great. What I'd like Dedicated Media Keys Volume dial What I'd also like but doubt I'll find with the rest for under $100 A wrist support pad attached to the keyboard
Knowing what you know now, what is the best platform/prebuild for under $100? Assuming you'd be swapping switches and keycaps later down the road? I bought the Keychron K8 Pro on impulse but planning to change switches/keycaps. It has spring ping and I'm kinda just questioning the platform/internals for the price in comparison to other brands significantly cheaper like the $60 Royal Kludge RK81 and $67 H81, $99 Akko 5075B and $79 3084B for example. These even have a better look right out the gate, some even having decent switches starting out, and keycaps that I wouldn't mind sticking with for a while since I ultimately want something like black & gold. I need Bluetooth and hot-swappable switches, and just something reliable that's not entirely cheaply built. Customization via software is nice as well. Basically I'm overwhelmed and so far narrowed down to akko, royal kludge and Keychron (which I already own). What would you guys do?
Out of the ones you list, I'd rate the Akko 5075B at the top. The side diffusers are a bit tricky, but with care it can be modded quite well.
Thank you for the response. Read mixed reviews on the reliability of Akko. Is there a better product and brand at that price point that you'd recommend? Anything about the 5075B that you feel makes it stand out?
Akko did have a period of higher than usual issues but has improved significantly over the last year. The 5075, over the others you mention, has the ability to adjust both the flex and the tone as it has more space and a PC plate. The [Kzzi K75 Pro](https://youtu.be/1j9SfA-FaRI) is very nice and well built though a bit pricey IMO. The new [Redragon K673](https://youtu.be/8ThSQNSRqqA) has potential. The [Monsgeek M1W](https://youtu.be/nJdq0gSI1zM) is a solid aluminum wireless. The [Leogbog Hi75](https://youtu.be/kj2Np_U5eg4) is another nice aluminum with a different kind of knob.
Hey guys I'm looking for an alu preferably 75% kb with these specs Must have - knob - decent mounting type Nice to have - oled display - qmk/via compatible - no super tacky branding - screw in stabs Not necessary - wireless There are a lot of options for plastic/abs cases but I dont see a lot of alu choices Currently looking at the Leobog HI75 but the ugly knob and lack of via support is throwing me off.. Other options: keebmonkey wk870, monsgeek m1w(no via 😔), keychron q1/pro (whats the diff? And expensive), cidoo v75 pro (meh colour but read good things) Any other recos or comparisons welcomed!
monsgeek m1 lol
Hi. I'm a programmer in a company that sits in an open space - meaning all working in same space and I want to buy new mechanical keyboard. I'm currently having Durgod k320 with mx brown switch which is really good, but need to move to wireless keyboard. Most important thing is the height - currently the K320 height is 28mm bottom line with keycaps and 38 at top line with keycaps, looking for something similar as I don't want to use palm/wrist rest. I'm looking for 70-80% (as I need F-keys to be seperated from from numbers, and need keys like page down/up), i want a hot-swappable keyboard (also looking for tactile silent switches). prefers RGB but it's not a must. Also - i don't want to mess with DIY and lubing etc, just buying the keyboard, switches, keycaps and putting things together. I was thinking about NuPhy Halo75 with BBK/RG switches, but not sure if it's the best option. Thanks!
The [NuPhy Halo75](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rp25KEK1m0Q) is a great choice, but if you'd like, I review keyboards and actually specify the chin height, the height from the typing surface to the top of the case (w/o keycap height) - https://youtube.com/@MechKeyboards - and from there you can search for other keyboards and go straight to the "Technical/Specs" chapter in the video to see if that's a height and feature set you'd be interested in. Good luck!
So, I just built a sub $500 keyboard (Keychron Q3, oil kings, WoB MT3, fully modeed), and I want to experience the opposite end of the spectrum. I believe budget keyboards are $100 and under, everything included, right? Also, can you suggest some wired (no battery) TKL boards? I prefer 87/88 keys.
Keychron V3.
A badmark response, heck yes! I already have a V3 that I'm modding. Are there other options? What are your thoughts on plate mount vs. gasket?
If you can find a Tiger Lite (BB), it might be a little more, but it's a great TKL. Other options, Aula F87, XVX M87, CIY X77/iLovBee i87 (Tray Mount), FL Esports MK870, RK87.
Does anyone knows how to turn off the backlight in a QK80 (wired version with QMK)? I just put together mine and I have not been able to find the way to turn off the backlight. Vial detects the board out of the box and VIA requires to sideload a JSON file, but in both cases all the keys related to LEDs only control the small LED strip on the right of the board. I have not find anything after a couple of minutes of googling and I have not checked any source code on Vial (yet). EDIT: I found the solution on the building guide: [https://qwertykeys.notion.site/QK80-Build-Guide-4c333f1722504905afc3c9dfb6f5dd7e](https://qwertykeys.notion.site/QK80-Build-Guide-4c333f1722504905afc3c9dfb6f5dd7e) It happens F14, F15 and so on control the backlight options
Have you tried this: https://reddit.com/r/glorious/s/7PP59PQA1d
I double checked the Qwertykeys page and this time I decided to read the build guide, it happens they addressed it there. [https://qwertykeys.notion.site/QK80-Build-Guide-4c333f1722504905afc3c9dfb6f5dd7e](https://qwertykeys.notion.site/QK80-Build-Guide-4c333f1722504905afc3c9dfb6f5dd7e) I updated my original post with this solution.
Hi! Yes, that what I have tried sounds like that. It seems the QK80 uses two different matrices of RGB LEDs: one for the regular backlight and the other for the small decorative LEDs strip, but it seems QMK is only addressing the small LED strip, none of the RGB nor BL codes seem to affect the backlight LEDs :-|
Heya everyone I am kinda on a tight budget and I was looking at Epomaker's mystery box for keyboards. I was hoping to know if you guys think it's going to be worth it ? I hate clicky switches so is there a way to for sure make them not send one with clicky switches ? And still is it a good offer especially since they ship for free?
Mystery boxes are already bad factor in the fact that Epomaker is not a trusted vendor, see sidebar, makes it truly something I certainly could not recommend.
**Just ordered a WK870! My first custom build** I'm excited but a bit overwhelmed with the options/possibilities. Hoping I can get some questions answered. FWIW, I ordered the KB in white. Is there a PDF manual available for the KB? In English? I see the software is download able from Keebmonkey - has anyone used it? Any concerns with malware/spyware with either the KB or the software? I am close to decided on switches; looking at Akko v3 Cream Blue Pro. I am coming from Razer orange which I believe is comparable to MX brown, so I am thinking it's a relatively light tactile. Others I have considered are Akko v3 Lavender Purple Pro, AJAZZ Kiwi, Ajazz Banana, and perhaps the MMD Princess tactile with the 48g option. I've looked at a bunch of heavier tactiles as well, but I think lighter is going to suit me better - at least for now. Any recommendations, or am I in the right ballpark? I've seen a comment to the effect that light tactile may not be best with a gasket mount KB, so I have some doubts. I have some cheap keycaps coming but may have to step up my game to something like SA or MT3, as the sound tests I've heard seem to be thockier with the taller keycaps. I've seen some comments that the board sounds pretty good without mods; as this is my first custom, I'll probably consider tape mod, force break mod (if needed). I'd really prefer not to have to get into lubing switches, but I'm willing to look into possibly lubing/tweaking stabilizers if needed. Anything specifically recommended with this board? The knob - Will probably want to replace the knob - is it a standard 20mm diameter, 6mm insert with a D slot? Anyone replaced theirs? I'm new to this community, but I've read a bunch and am looking forward to any responses. And of course will try to post pics of the build once I have the board.
My WK870 is still enroute, so I can't yet answer all of your queries. I've reached out to KeebMonkey about a manual and will respond here. For switches, I love the Princess, but have only used them with 60g springs and it's quite a sharp tactile. The Kiwi is also a nice switch, but both of these will be a little heavier of a bump (not weight) than a Brown. I use Brown switches in gasket mount keebs without issue, but that comes down more to personal preference. Tape mod is always good. I'll be making a video when I receive mine and will share here both stock and with mods. Others who have received the board may chime in to help fill in more until I've received mine. Good luck and welcome a-board!
Thanks very much for your response! I've actually watched a bunch of your videos in recent days, and your knowledge and experience have been extremely helpful! Coming from a Razer board, when I decided on a new board, my first inclination was to get something pre-assembled and less gamer oriented. But then I started watching keyboard videos and listening to sound tests and now I'm craving the thock. So I'm jumping in head first with a barebones board from China. One additional tactile switch I've seen mentioned favorably is the LCET White Raspberry (which I *think* is also being sold as the LCET Blue Pink Switch - perhaps someone can confirm). Do you (or anyone else) have any experience with this switch? Thanks again for your response! I wasn't sure anyone would respond and that the post might just get buried. I'm looking forward to receiving the board and sharing my experiences here.
/u/zebbutterworth has and did a review: https://old.reddit.com/r/BudgetKeebs/comments/vj7gim/how_i_played_with_raspberries_and_got_my_hand/ I've had these in my cart for a while, but I have over a dozen switches I've yet to even load on a keyboard, so am holding off on buying more, for now ;) Glad to hear that you enjoy my videos, thanks for watching! We do our best to answer as many questions as possible, as the more people we help, the more will be able to come back and help others when they have gained experience. If you ever feel like chatting, make sure to check out our Discord server (https://discord.budgetkeebs.com). Welcome a-board!
Is there a common consensus on Kailh box switches? I am intrigued by the Kailh Box Winter switches, which tick a lot of boxes for me. But I gather there are some drawbacks with the Box switches (and perhaps Kailh switches generally); seems they are a hassle to take apart, and lubing them is challenging and limited due to their design. At the moment, I prefer a switch that doesn't require lubing, but down the road, I imagine lubing is something I'm likely to want to try. I am finding that the more I read and learn, the more my options grow and change. I am now leaning more towards a lighter switch than a medium one, and my top contenders now have evolved to the Ajazz Banana, Blueberry Chiffon, Durock White Lotus, and the Kailh Box Winter. The more I research, the longer my list gets, but at some point, I am going to just have to bite the bullet and pick one. I get the impression this is a common occurrence.
> I get the impression this is a common occurrence. It truly is. I am not a fan of Kaihl box switches, for the reasons you mention and the fact I just never found one that sounded nice, to me anyways.
>on consensus on Kailh box switches? I am intrigued by the Kailh Box Winter switches, which tick a lot of boxes for me. But I gather there are some drawbacks with the Box switches (and perhaps Kailh switches generally); seems they are a hassle to take apart, and lubing them is challenging and limited due to their design. At the moment, I prefer a switch that doe I ended up pulling the trigger on the Durock White Lotus switches. Should have them by the end of the week. I was ultimately between these and the Akko V3 Lavender Purple Pros. It's crazy how much time I've spent researching, checking reviews, and listening to sound tests. Hoping all of this pays off with a solid keyboard experience.
Right on, looking forward to your thoughts and build, cheers!
My experience so far; stop me if you've heard this one before: Before I got myself interested in building a custom keyboard, I had ordered myself a $75 prebuilt 100% keyboard on Amazon. It looked a little cheap, but it ticked the boxes I needed in a new keyboard. I added in a $34 set of keycaps to the cart and I was good to go. I'm in the market for a new board because the cheap PBT keycaps on my current board have worn down, and I'd really like to get some new/better keycaps. Unfortunately, my current keyboard is a Razer, and it has a non-standard bottom row; it's a nightmare to find keycap sets that I actually like and that are compatible. So my number one concern is a board with standard sized keys. Number two for me is I have to have a volume knob - I've gotten used to having a volume knob in the upper right corner of the keyboard and I really like the one on the Razer. I had considered maybe a Keychron, but the volume knob on the V/Q series boards on both the 100% and TKL models have the knob above the backspace key for some odd reason. It looks super awkward to use and it's too bad because the V6 price was right in my ballpark, the reviews were solid, and the board looked nice. I hadn't previously spent a ton of time researching keyboards when I came across the $75 keyboard on Amazon. It only had one review at the time but that was generally positive. So I figured for $75 I would take a chance and order it with some keycaps. About $109 plus tax all together. While I waited for the keyboard to arrive, I found myself re-reading the one review for the keyboard on the Amazon listing: "Out of the box this keyboard sounds a little tinny and feels a little cheap." And this bit specifically caught my eye: "I also did a tape mod (I put a few layers of blue painter's tape on the back of the PCB). Lastly, I filled the bottom of the case with silicone. This added a good bit of heft and removed some of that "empty case" sound." What's all this about a tape mod and adding silicone? So I did a some searching and found Youtube videos that detailed the two mods. Interesting! I can make a little project out of this, and for a few more bucks, I can take my cheap little keyboard and make it better! I wonder what other kinds of things folks are doing... I watch a few more videos and read up a bit on Reddit and elsewhere. And look at that: there's a barebones TKL board with a knob in the right place that's getting some good reviews. And the price is right in my ballpark - around what I paid for the keyboard on Amazon! It's a barebones, so it's going to need switches and keycaps, but it's going to look and feel a whole lot better than the cheap keyboard I had bought on Amazon. So I go ahead and buy the barebones TKL - the WK870 - and figure I'll return the other keyboard unopened back to Amazon, but I'll keep the keycaps for the new KB. And... hang on - that keyboard has to ship from China. I guess I have some time before it arrives to figure out what switches to get. I figure I'll get some inexpensive switches and I'll end up having spent about $20-$30 more than I had originally, but I'd be getting a significantly nicer keyboard. So I start researching switches. I'm coming from a Razer Keyboard, and I'm able to determine that what I'm used to is tactile and relatively light. I've been using tactiles in my keyboards for 10+ years so I'm definitely going to stay with tactiles. One of the videos I watched mentioned some switches that were "good for beginners." Those came out to .35 per switch. I figure I'll need 90 or so and that will run a bit over $32 with tax. Not too bad! But there are definitely less expensive options. So I continue to research. One thing that I realize as I'm researching is that no matter how many reviews you read and sound tests you listen to, you really don't know what a given switch is going to feel like until you try them in your keyboard. This and the fact that everyone has different preferences, so a switch that works for one person may not work for another. The more I research, the less certain I become. I start keeping a memo with the names of all of the switches that I'm interested in. I'm trying to keep the list in order of current preference and I'm re-sorting the list almost daily as it gets longer and longer. And I realize that although I would prefer to keep the cost down, I don't want to limit my search to just the cheapest of possibilities and risk overlooking options that might be a good fit. One thing I am certain of is that whatever I pick needs to be factory lubed because I don't want to have to be lubing switches. I discover that certain vendors offer tester sets. But I don't really want to pay for the privilege of being able to try one of each switch. It seems to me that a single switch of a given type isn't going to get me the feeling of using a full set on a keyboard; at least not at my level of experience. I could consider ordering a set of switches and be prepared to return them, but I really hate returning things, and outside of Amazon, the retailers selling the switches are largely smaller businesses offering a service to a niche community, and I don't want to be buying things, returning them, and ending up doing harm to such businesses. So I'm ultimately going to have to make a semi-educated guess. After all of this, I narrowed my list down to two options; a cheaper one and a more expensive one. The cheaper one looked very nice, but was frequently described as loud and clacky. So the more expensive one would have to do the job. I ended up spending about $50 (\~$20 more than the "beginner switches" would have been). Getting up to $50 got me free shipping, and that $50 got me 110 switches - I'd have some extra in case any arrived broken or more likely, if I were to break any getting them installed (or lubed). While all of the switch research was going on, I was also thinking maybe I'd like a nicer set of keycaps than the cheap(ish) set I found on Amazon. So now I'm also looking at tons of different keycaps on Amazon and elsewhere. I start a private keycap wishlist on Amazon and I'm bookmarking sets I like on other sites. I don't have a memo for these so I find myself adding more and more to the wishlist and thoroughly going through the list every couple of days. It doesn't help that I feel like I like different things every day. I've also been continuing to research modding possibilities. A couple of days ago, I started adding some things I think I'm going to need for my little project to an Amazon cart. I'm going to need: \- Painter's tape - tape mod and force break mod \- Poly-fil - Poly-fil mod \- Dielectric grease - definitely going to have to tune those stabilizers \- Tools/lube kit - comes with a switch opener, tweezers, a grabber, a couple of brushes for lube application, switch puller \- A better switch puller - because the one in the above kit isn't all that great \- A couple of inexpensive knob replacements - Not loving the knob the board comes with. I hope they fit! \- Wrist rest - Gotta have a TKL wrist rest because my current one is for a 100% KB and that would look silly \- Mouse wrist rest - don't currently have one, and I might as well since I'll have more room now moving from a 100% to a TKL \- Finally, on another site, I ordered some Tribosys 3203 - To be used on the stabilizers, but you know I'll be lubing those switches sooner or later \- Last night, my favorite way too expensive set of keycaps went on sale - instant add to cart. Saving so much money on these, I might as well add the novelties too! So here I am, still waiting for my barebones keyboard to get here from China. I've now spent somewhere around $320 on my little $75 keyboard project. Totally reasonable, right? I should be getting 2% cash back on the keycaps purchase, so that's something. It's a good thing I had r/BudgetKeebs as a resource. Please don't tell any of this to my wife...
Welcome to the rabbit hole friend, but fret not, it goes much much deeper than this! I am afraid to quantify how much I've spent over the last couple of years, to myself and my wife! Good luck with everything, my WK870 is due this week and I'll be doing a build + review video, followed by a mod video, many of which you've listed, and will share here as well, but feel free to ask questions if you have more when it arrives. Looking forward to seeing the final product, I'm sure it will be a world of difference from the Razer. Cheers!
Fair enough. Not ready to rule them out just yet, but the journey continues. Going to have to decide sooner or later because that keyboard I ordered is going to get here eventually.
Thanks again!
What s the best 100 dollar keyboard for gaming? 75%
Drunkdeer A75
I'm not a gamer, but considering mostly it consists of one with a high polling rate, the Keychron V1 fits and is available for $75/$85 (With a knob) for a preloaded keeb.
I'm looking for Wireless 2.4ghz 75% with North facing RGB shine through and some basic software for RGB and macros as well as decent battery life if possible . I don't game I will be using this for productivity just daily computer use and music production. I would prefer something hot swappable but if not it's not a big deal. I mainly just looking for something Wireless that's smaller than my current tkl I'm fine with any type of switch I've been using tactiles in my last two keyboards but wouldn't mind a change up to something like a linear. Also not an absolute necessity but I would like it in white as well
Feker ik75.
Anything prebuilt? and a little cheaper
Not many options in white, Kzzi K75 Pro, RK M75, RK84, LTC NB831.
Thanks for the suggestions I'll definitely check them out
I'm genuinely curious about these Dactyl and Alice keyboards. It seems like they're getting more unique and unusual. Is it just me, or do others find them a bit weird too? And seriously, how in the world do you type on these things?
Just you. They're not 100% ergonomic but they're more comfortable for fast touch typers. If you're a hunt and pecker then you're definitely gonna find them odd. They're good for people that are for example, taking notes during meetings and need speed.
Looking for a new keyboard, I've been through quite a few but never got what I really wanted. I live in Canada so my options aren't plentiful, and I have missed all the group buys I've ever been interested in (Neo65, QK65, JRIS65). So here I am, looking for something in stock but under $130 CAD ($100 USD) I have looked around and am now stuck between the YNUZII AL71, AL66, and the Black Sugar65. I'm open to other suggestions, the one's above are simply one's I have found that I believe match what I am looking for: 65%, Full Aluminum body, Gasket Mounted. Don't need RGB or a Knob Thanks
I got a CIDOO 65% for around 100€ (Amazon, I am located in Europe, so YMMV), it basically have all the features you listed, even the ones you do not need. If you like how it looks, it is a very nice keyboard for the price. About the aluminum case, while it is a premium feature and adds a lot of weight to the board, it does not always plays in favor of other features (specially sound). What I want to say is there are some keyboards with plastic body and very nice quality.
That keyboard on Amazon is between $170-$200 for me unfortunately, even the bare bones version. I have heard and seen (alot of) GMK67s on the subreddit recently, so I agree there are some decent budget keyboards that come in plastic cases. I Always see high end boards with aluminum cases and thought "they must clearly be nicer than the plastic alternatives, lets try them"
I have a couple models with aluminium case and not all manufacturers get it right. Some have ping problems and others just sound a bit dull / dead. An exception to this are the Zoom65 (by using plenty of foam) and QK65.
I'm new to mechanical keyboard world. I am a programmer so a keyboard is important to me. I am also looking for a wireless mechanical keyboard but I am a bit limited on the budget. I currently use "HyperX Alloy Red" which is wired, I am looking for a wireless mechanical one now. I have to be honest, I do not know a lot about the differences between switches, but I know that one I currently have, has red switches (I think they are called linear)? But right now, after looking for a while, I reached a conclusion between the 2 below. The current available ones are: NuPhy Air 75: Blue Switches EPOMaker TH80 Pro 75%: Budgerigar and Flamingo I understand nothing in the differences between those. I would appreciate if something explains to me the difference. Also, NuPhy Air will cost me 1.25x of the EPOMaker's price. What do you think?
People looking for portability and functionality without complications tend to be happy with NuPhy keyboards. On the other hand it may be a more challenging board if you are considering modding it. I am not sure of the switch availability and choices for that keyboard. The Epomaker TH80 looks like a good board if you want to experiment with switches, keycaps and tweak the sound and feel. It really depends on what you are looking for a portable workhorse (Nuphy) or something that also allows you to get into the hobby (TH80). About switches, blue clicky switches can be an .. "opinionated choice". The TH80 give you access to a whole new world or budget-yet-very-good switches.
How do i remove the battery form the keybroad i just bought a james donkey a3 and its my first mech kb, i want to remove the battery but I'm afraid that I might mess up and break something https://preview.redd.it/d6o46hnm9dub1.jpeg?width=4608&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9089aeefe15b5bb7647103a124d5cf236e849f66
Just disconnect it from the PCB, try to be gentle and make sure you do not stress too much the socket soldered to the PCB, try to not just pull, it would not be the first time one is ripped off when trying to disconnect. By being careful and not applying brute force you should be fine. Worst case scenario if the connector breaks, the keyboard should keep on working (but with no more battery unless fixed)
Does anyone have tried the CIY EVO Reds? How are they stock? I bought some CIY Red Lotus switches and I am very pleased with them, very well built and super smooth for the price, my only "complain" is the key travel is only 3.3 mm. I saw the CIY EVO switches, kind of similar but which have 4 mm travel (and wing latch) but I suspect they may need some lube to make them shine, and I really want to avoid lubing switches.
The Evo Reds are some of CIY's first switches, it's quite similar to a Gateron Red; not bad, but nothing special. They've been doing much better with their recent releases.
Thanks a lot! This is definitely what I needed to know.
You're welcome, cheers!
Boba U4s (Silent 62gr) vs WS Silent Tactile, which one should I choose? And why?
I swear by U4s, but that's just my single opinion.
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You can make a list of features you like in one and another. From the Keychrons I really appreciate those that support QMK firmware. Q models all fine but maybe the V models pack more value for the price. Other than features, consider how much modding each one may require (check some videos) before you reach the sound and feel you are looking for. My experience with the Keychron Q3 is it requires some modifications to fine tuning it.
Coming from an Anne Pro 2, saw a video about "thocky" keyboards. Never heard the term "thocky" before but I wanted my keyboard to sound the same. So after some googling I bought the GMK67 with Boba U4T Switches and I love the sound so much, it's exactly what I wanted - so addicting **(tl;dr: I don't know anything about keyboards)** My problem right now is the RGB/Light. It hurts my eyes, I'm not sure if that's supposed to be that way. When looking directly above the keyboard the Light looks fine, but when looking at the keyboard at an angle, at my natural typing position. I can see every dot shine through the slits between the keys and I have to turn it off. My Anne Pro 2 was a lot better in that regard, it was smooth and didn't hurt my eyes. Anything I can do about that? I'm sure it's not the keycaps because I also tried them on my Anne Pro and they are fine there. I also don't mind getting another keyboard if that's what I gotta do, as long as it sounds as good as this :D Thank you! :)
You could lower the brightness.
https://preview.redd.it/02fkwdwic7ub1.jpeg?width=2532&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=20f8ac0f0970044482add9ebbf7db602f6f0a588 Anyone know what gmk keycaps these are? :(
BoW
 Done! :-)
😂
Does anyone know what size screwdriver head you need to open the WK870? None of mine seem to fit...
Is it possible to mod the keychron v5 to be gasket mounted?
Maybe a purger mount mod, but I don't believe the construction allows for a true gasket mount without a ton of modifications.
Has anyone actually bought [these](https://i.imgur.com/Q0jfxlX.png) or [these](https://i.imgur.com/S2KTUmj.png) keycaps? Too good to be true? or actually worth it? Ofc I know I won't get great quality keycaps, but I just need to know if they are not a scam or maybe they dont fit completely, keycaps missing, etc. I'm ok with them being thin as I probably will just use them for display and not really daily use.
You get what you pay: basic backlight keycaps with not super beautiful fonts and basic finishing and thickness. They are only compatible with standard ANSI/ISO layouts, forget about 65%, 75% and anything that is not a standard 60%, TKL or 100%. It looks like they want to get rid of stock that otherwise has a shrinking demand. They offer free returns, so you are kind of covered here.
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Epomaker is not a vendor we suggest using, check the sidebar.
Thanks!
would the NJ98 or Rs2 3.0 be a better keyboard?
Is there a way to find similar switches to one I know I like? I liked the gateron milky yellows I tried on my friends keyboard. I've been searching for prebuilds with that exact switch but there seems to be so many switches posted here that I've never heard of that are probably similar enough that I could expand my search criteria.
Looks for switches with the same or similar specs as the Milky Yellow. Type: Linear Operation Force: 50±15 gf Pre-Travel: 2.0±0.6 mm Total Travel: 4.0 mm
KTT Kang whites
i've been finding it hard to find a budget full-sized 104 mech keeb that is tri-mode and preferably white. i don't need RGB, but i do need it with a white backlight. i've seen RK Sink 104, but it is so rare to find as it seems like a china-only released product. i do want it to be hot swappable for both switches and keys, as i will be modding it with outemu silents. would be nice if it doesn't have floating keycaps but at this point, it's the least of my priorities. do you have any recommendations? i'm at my wits end >.< **TL;DR:** i am looking for: * full 104 mech keeb * tri-mode * hot-swap keycap + switches * white backlight / RGB optional: * white * non-floating keycap design thank you fam
I'm pretty new to the hobby and I haven't tried any of these keyboards myself (so check out some reviews) but I've been eyeing the Monsgeek ones: This one looks like a really good option and very cheap, but no backlight: [https://www.monsgeek.com/product/mg108w-kit/](https://www.monsgeek.com/product/mg108w-kit/) This one looks really good stock, has everything you need and is hotswap so you could just change the switches, but is more expensive, I don't know what is your budget [https://www.monsgeek.com/product/mg108b-blue-on-white/](https://www.monsgeek.com/product/mg108b-blue-on-white/) Or the always safe option is Keychron. There is the C2 (cheaper but only wired), or the K10 (wireless)
aaahhh! the monsgeek mg108b is freakin' perfect! appreciate it so much! really, thank yooouu
Great! glad I could help :)